Wine 1020

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Last summer, in a meeting in Eastern Washington, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates (SMWE), delivered some devastating news to the grape growers in attendance. The state’s largest winery told the vineyards it would purchase 40 percent less fruit from them over the next five years. That massive reduction came on the heels of SMWE announcing layoffs earlier in the year; just last month it revealed yet another round of job cuts. SMWE has long been a driver behind Washington wine, so its cascade of bad news cast a pall over the state’s entire industry in 2023. Words like “crisis” have been thrown around, while others argued Washington wine needed to be saved.

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Sean P. Sullivan, the publisher of Northwest Wine Report, summarized the situation well in an article written in early December, just after the second round of layoffs was announced. As Sullivan so succinctly states, “Washington is very much a tale of two industries.” SMWE produces seven million cases of wine per year—almost half of the state’s entire output—while “90 percent of Washington wineries make fewer than 5,000 cases per year.” So although there’s been a lot of doom and gloom in the air, in our eyes, much of the hand wringing is akin to a large fast-food chain announcing it will be closing eateries immediately followed by news outlets forecasting the end of fine dining.

While it seems that a major producer cutting its orders on fruit by 40 percent is a bad thing, not everyone sees it that way. Sullivan thinks it could be “very beneficial for Washington.” He tells us, “It gives growers a once-in-a-generation opportunity to evaluate what they have planted, where they have it planted, what is working, what is not, and what they might do differently. That will lead to taking out varieties or vines in some areas as well as planting or replanting in others.” And as Scott Lloyd, general manager of Quilceda Creek Winery—which grows its own grapes in estate vineyards and does not buy any fruit from outside growers—says, “For other wineries, there will be a renewed opportunity to have access to vineyards they have not had before to make fantastic wine at a great value.”

If you haven’t yet had the pleasure of sampling Washington State wine, you’re definitely missing out. This brand of wine is characterized by variety, with over 80 different grape varieties grown in the region. Despite this diversity, consumers and traders continue to prefer products they can easily identify. Common pairings include Napa with Cabernet Sauvignon, and Burgundy with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In Washington State, variations range from Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc to any grape variety you can think of. Being the second-largest wine-producing state in the US, Washington started its winemaking journey in the 1860s. Today, a substantial proportion of the state’s wine products are shipped out of state. Top-tier wineries deliver directly to their consumers.

Quilceda Creek epitomizes such wineries. Their Cabernet Sauvignon is in such high demand that customers have to join a waiting list. Quilceda Creek owns and operates its own vineyards in the Columbia Valley and Red Mountain AVAs. A bottle of Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon fetches $200, while a bottle from Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Cab Sauv sells for $17. Quilceda Creek’s prospects look bright, given its fiercely loyal customer base and consistent high ratings for its Cabernets.

Jesús Martínez Bujanda Mora, CEO of Valdemar Family, who represents the fifth generation of his family’s winemakers, also produces wine in Washington State at their Valdemar Estates winery in Walla Walla. While he predicts a high level of competition due to an oversupply of grapes, he believes that the quality and consistent high standards of Washington’s wines will counter any potential negative fallouts from the competition.

The Valdemar Family, in addition to Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, also produces Syrah, which could potentially further broaden Washingtons’s appeal to wine lovers. The high-quality, diverse and well-priced Syrah and Syrah-based blends, ranging from light and earthy to full-bodied and rich, make for an enticing prospect for consumers.

Everyone we spoke with offered a positive outlook for Washington wine. “Although we’re clearly in a period of transition, we remain optimistic about the future,” Kristina Kelley, executive director of the Washington State Wine Commission, says.

That transition echoes the one facing the industry as a whole, with sales falling the last few years as younger drinkers look to different beverages or abstain from alcohol entirely. That’s taking a toll on the likes of SMWE that specialize in wines on the lower end of the price spectrum. But there’s still a market for premium offerings, which Washington has plenty of. So we will carry on covering some of the shining stars to guide our readers toward the best wines the state has to offer. Look for bottles from L’Ecole No 41, Sparkman Cellars, DeLille Cellars, Figgins, Leonetti, Doubleback, and even the high-end bottlings from the winery that started this conversation, Chateau Ste. Michelle.

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“Corked wine” isn’t the lone culprit that can mar a wine’s flavour. There’s an increasing discussion around a “new” defect, typically addressed as “mouse” or “mousiness”. This flaw was hardly recognized or even existent a few decades prior, but recently, its occurrence has escalated, courtesy of a rising trend of utilizing minimal to nil sulphur in wine-crafting and producers plucking mature grapes with lower acidity. Here’s your need-to-know on this.

Pinpointing this flaw with precision can be challenging. The commonly perceived manifestations can be likened to corn, popcorn, basmati rice, tortillas, and, predictably, a mouse though admittedly, the actual smell of a mouse remains ambiguous).

A person sniffing a wine in a wine glass, copyright BKWine Photography

The chemical compounds that give rise to mousiness don’t evaporate easily in the acidic habitat (low pH) of wine. But they do when you take a sip of the wine, as the acidity level alters.

Interestingly, the pH level in humans’ mouths is noticeably higher, so when the wine is introduced to your mouth, these compounds become more volatile, allowing you to experience the “flavour”, or more aptly, the smell.

Unusually, mouse is a flaw that can’t be detected by simply smelling the wine. Its presence only becomes apparent when you actually taste the wine.

Typically, a sommelier will present the wine for you to taste at a restaurant before service. Often, a sniff is all that’s required to identify flaws like TCA or “corked” wine, but with mouse, you actually have to taste it to confirm its presence. Adding to the challenge, not everyone has the sensitivity to detect mouse (this is true for other wine faults as well).

On multiple occasions, I’ve attended tastings where wines were intentionally tainted with the mouse flaw (alongside others presenting different types of faults). Even then, it was still difficult to definitively say if a wine was affected or exactly what the fault truly was. Sometimes it’s just a vague feeling that something about the wine is slightly off. Maybe if mice were more prevalent in our area, the identification would come easier…

Scientists believe that mousiness is caused by a group of compounds called pyridine. This compound consists of a basic molecular formula of C5H5N, and is even used industrially as an additive to render spirits non-potable.

A woman in a lab coat in a laboratory in a winery, copyright BKWine Photography

So, what brings about mousiness in wine?

Based on a recent research conducted at the University of Bordeaux, three main factors are found guilty: Brettanomyces, also known as the “wild” yeast that may lead to its own wine fault, “brett”, the so-called “lactobacteria” that execute the malolactic “fermentation” of malic acid to lactic acid in wine, and some inorganic chemical activities, majorly, the Maillard reaction.

The research implies that the risk of having a mousy wine elevates with very low sulphur levels. Consequently, the ongoing trend of low-sulphur wines and even no-sulphur wines have significantly amplified the risk of experiencing mousiness. Different researches provide different statistics. Some tagging 20% of low or no sulphur wines as impacted while others mention numbers up to 50%.

Potassium metabisulphite is a form that SO2, sulphur, can be added to wine, copyright BKWine … [+]. Photography

Another impactful factor is the prevalent acidity in the wine. With the shift in weather patterns and changing consumer preferences, grapes are being harvested at a later, more mature stage, leading to diminished acidity levels. This, in turn, increases the risk of yielding a mousy wine, an issue perplexed by the effects of climate change.

From my perspective, there’s no easy solution for the winemakers besides being cautious and continuously monitoring the acidity levels, perhaps tweaking them periodically, and ensuring appropriate levels of sulphur are used. I am not aware of any quick fixes that can eradicate the issue if it occurs.

If you ever get a bottle with it, unfortunately, there’s not much to be done. If it is a mere trace, maybe it won’t make much difference.

The good news are that in most cases, it is not a very stinky fault, it is relatively rare, and some people don’t even notice it.

—Per Karlsson

Cofounders of Maker Wine—Sarah Hoffman, Zoe Victor and Kendra Kawala.

It’s been a long day at work. Dinner is on the table. You sit down to unwind, pouring a glass of your favorite wine. It hasn’t crossed your mind lately about the type of wine you purchase, where it comes from, or how the wine bottles impact the environment. All you care about is that it’s pleasing to the palate.

But what if knowing more about your wine made it taste better? What if there was a company making strides and disrupting an age-old industry? Would you take notice?

Zippia reports that only 17.8% of winemakers are women, and out of that percentage, only 1% are Black. Sarah Hoffman, Kendra Kawala and Zoe Victor, cofounders of Maker Wine, made it their mission to improve these statistics while pushing boundaries within the industry.

The premium canned wine brand focuses on elevating the profiles and products of wineries led by women and minorities. They’ve managed to secure $2.3 million in funding from key investors and stakeholders such as Pear VC, Marcy VP and the Chainsmokers. Dominating the online domain for canned wine sales, the DTC company has a robust online community with over 40,000 members and a Can Club of 2,000 members, all thriving through a unique tech experience. As a testament to their quality, Maker has 12 wines with 90+ point scores and 43 gold medals from renowned competitions like the SF Chronicle Int’l Wine Competition, Sunset Int’l Wine Competition, Sommelier’s Challenge etc.

Moreover, the company has achieved over $5 million in total sales since its inception, sold over 350,000 cans in the previous year and is regarded as the top online retailer of canned wine.

Hoffman, during a Zoom interview, emphasized the importance of profiling diverse winemakers and not simply talking about diversity. She stressed upon their commitment to make wine culture more inclusive, considering all aspects from the mode of drinking to patronage. She highlighted the fact that only a miniscule percentage of winemakers are women, among which an even smaller fraction are women of colour. Their business thereby conferred opportunities to a wider range of producers by virtue of its approach.

Prior to her current role, Hoffman was responsible for managing user acquisition and multimillion-dollar marketing budgets for several companies, right from their inception up to their IPOs. She has vast experience in this domain, having worked with Eventbrite and Right Side Up, a growth marketing consultancy empowering brands like StitchFix, Masterclass etc.

Maker Wine is revolutionizing the market with their trendy canned wine.

After deciding to pursue her master’s degree, Hoffman met Kawala at Stanford Business School. The pair instantly hit it off thanks to their shared enthusiasm for the food and beverage sector.

Before delving into the world of wine, Kawala staged an impressive career as a healthcare management consultant at Huron Consulting Group. She greatly contributed in the areas of operations, innovation and B2B sales, even spearheading Huron’s highest-ever consulting project involving over $100 million. Upon relocating to California for Business School, she was introduced to the intricate industry of wine and realized she wanted to be a part of it.

Kawala speaks fondly of her first experiences within the world of wine: ‘I was completely enchanted by the authentic process of winemaking and the global role it holds. I thought, ‘There’s so much about the wider world of wine and its creators that the public should be educated on.’”

While engaged in market analysis, Hoffman and Kawala enrolled in a course named “Global Dynamics of the Wine Industry”. Their lecturer eventually became one of Maker’s earliest angel investors. Victor, having established a successful career in consumer technology, joined the team after meeting the other founders through Stanford connections. She has previously spearheaded corporate strategy and operations for entities such as Xbox and others.

The founders began the company with a commitment to distribute superior quality wine in an innovative, disruptive way that also uplifts neglected segments of the market. One primary hurdle was to overcome the societal bias against canned wine.

Describing the scenario, Kawala said, “”Essentially, the feedback we got was, “It’s unfeasible. You’re being unrealistic.” We had to convince people that cans can be associated with premium goods rather than just soft drinks and inexpensive products. We proposed that individual wineries would allow us to use their wines, their expertise, their brand identity, and their narratives. We further proposed that consumers were prepared to purchase wine in a novel way and through an online platform.

Hoffman and Kawala stationed themselves outside high-end stores with soda cans enveloped in high-quality wrapping paper. They collected customer feedback to validate their concept. Following this market research, they started creating their brand and reaching out to wine producers. The makers wanted to see innovative packaging. The team at Maker focused on delivering a can that does not allow light exposure or oxidation and doesn’t spoil the wine’s taste due to corking. In addition to being fully recyclable and free from corks, these cans also have a minor environmental footprint when compared to bottles.

Terah Bajjelieh, owner & winemaker of Terah Wine Co

The cofounders considered it crucial to highlight underrepresented creators like Terah Bajjelieh, the owner & winemaker of Terah Wine Co. The fundamental purpose of Maker’s mission was to support fellow female winemakers by promoting their brands and accounts on a wider scale through direct sales.

“Witnessing a female-led start-up such as this one growing rapidly in the beverage industry and achieving commendable milestones in a relatively short time is exhilarating,” shares Bajjelieh. She mentioned the Battonage Forum’s statistics that only 30% of U.S. businesses are women-owned, while a mere 14% of wineries have a woman at the helm as a lead winemaker. The notion of potential empowerment through collective growth and support is a powerful one.

Since its initiation in 2020, Maker has demonstrated massive growth and disrupted the existing market, thereby offering consumers superior options. The cofounders’ key strategies as they continue to grow their brand include:

“I love, as a marketer, the magic moments with your product,” Hoffman concludes. “Everyone remembers that first moment they have when they have a glass of wine that you’re like, ‘Oh, I really like this. I understand how wine can be this art and special thing.’ I think a second moment when you realize that you can have a really great glass of wine not just from a couple of established brands you know, but from these craft producers that have a story that has something special there.”

Robert Hanson to Step Down as EVP & President, Wine & Spirits Division Effective February 29, 2024

Company Initiates Search to Identify New Leader to Guide Next Phase of Growth for Its Wine & Spirits Business

VICTOR, N.Y., Jan. 04, 2024 (GLOBE NEWSWIRE) — Constellation Brands, Inc. (NYSE: STZ), a leading beverage alcohol company, today announced that the Company and Robert Hanson, who has led the transformation of the company’s Wine & Spirits business since 2019, have mutually agreed that Mr. Hanson will step down from his role as Executive Vice President and President of the company’s Wine & Spirits Division, at the end of Constellation’s fiscal year on February 29, 2024. The company has initiated a search to identify a successor. Bill Newlands, President and Chief Executive Officer, will assume responsibilities as interim leader for the company’s Wine & Spirits Division, in addition to his existing responsibilities, until a successor is named. Newlands and Hanson will work together over the coming weeks to ensure a smooth transition of leadership.

“Robert has been instrumental in leading the charge to reposition our Wine & Spirits business to a higher-end portfolio of brands more aligned with consumer trends, with an expanded focus to include global, omni-channel distribution, with more robust and targeted international and direct-to-consumer sales channels,” said Bill Newlands, President and Chief Executive Officer at Constellation Brands. “We thank Robert for his transformational vision, drive and commitment to our business over the past 11 years, first as a Board Director, and then as President of our Wine & Spirits Division, and we wish him the best in his future endeavors.”

Hanson became a member of Constellation in June 2019, following successful tenures as CEO and President at companies such as John Hardy Global Limited, American Eagle Outfitters, and Levi Strauss & Co. From 2013 to 2019, he also served as a board member of Constellation. Throughout Hanson’s leadership for more than four years, the Wine & Spirits Division of the company has seen considerable transformation, with brand portfolio reshaping through lower-end brand divestitures, acquisitions of higher-end spirits and fine wine brands, consumer-focused innovation, as well as laying a strong foundation for sustainable success and growth in profit.

“I take pride in serving Constellation Brands’ Board as well as its Wine & Spirits Division, and I greatly respect and admire the company, its beloved beverage alcohol portfolio and the team members who are particularly talented,” Hanson said. “Now is the appropriate time for me to transition the leadership and step down from my role with the company and move towards my future career objectives as we have achieved operational, capability and strategic transformation for the company’s Wine & Spirits business. I am eager to see the team achieve even more success in the forthcoming years.”

CONSTELLATION BRANDS IN BRIEF
Constellation Brands (NYSE: STZ) is a leading global producer of beer, wine, and spirits with operations spread across Mexico, the U.S., New Zealand, and Italy. Our mission lies in building brands that consumers love, since we value the enhancement of human connections as Worth Reaching For. It motivates us to work hard, take calculated risks and stay dedicated in order to predict market trends and deliver more to our industry, employees, shareholders, and consumers. This dedication has been the driving force behind us being one of the fastest booming, large CPG companies in the US retail business, propelling us to deliver what’s next.

Every day, our high-end, iconic imported beer brands like the flagship Corona Extra, the family of Corona brands, Modelo Especial, and the rich selection of Modelo Cheladas, Pacifico, and Victoria are reached out to by people, as are our fine wine and craft spirits brands which include The Prisoner Wine Company, Robert Mondavi Winery, Casa Noble Tequila, and High West Whiskey, and our premium wine brands like Kim Crawford and Meiomi.

As an agriculture-based company, we have a long history of operating sustainably and responsibly. Our ESG strategy is embedded into our business and our work focuses on serving as good stewards of the environment, enhancing social equity within our industry and communities, and promoting responsible beverage alcohol consumption. These commitments ground our aspirations beyond driving the bottom line as we work to create a future that is truly Worth Reaching For.

To learn more, visit www.cbrands.com and follow us on X, Instagram, and LinkedIn.

MEDIA CONTACTS

INVESTOR RELATIONS CONTACTS

Amy Martin 585-678-7141 / amy.martin@cbrands.com

Carissa Guzski 315-525-7362 / carissa.guzski@cbrands.com

Joseph Suarez 773-551-4397 / joseph.suarez@cbrands.com

Snehal Shah 847-385-4940 / snehal.shah@cbrands.com

David Paccapaniccia 585-282-7227 / david.paccapaniccia@cbrands.com

A downloadable PDF copy of this news release can be found here: http://ml.globenewswire.com/Resource/Download/6f879f06-e200-4633-8058-dc27ea98a53e

Searching for your next great bottle? Sicily, Greece, South Africa, and Lodi may have the answers. … [+] (Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images)

Have you ever had a sommelier pour you an unexpectedly excellent wine? A white or red from an unknown region, something sparkling from outside of Champagne, or a weird but wonderful bottle from the far reaches of Eastern Europe?

In 2024, sommeliers are predicting a number of unexpected wine regions will step into the spotlight.

“We are starting to see wines come out of less traditional regions, whether newer to grape growing or places that haven’t shared their production worldwide in the past,” says Danielle Miller of

167 Raw Oyster Barin Charleston points out that. “For example, a favorite on our current list is a Cypriot wine with incredible complexity, and it’s a grape we had never heard of.”

Bertil Jean-Chronberg, an award-winning sommelier and owner of Bonde Fine Wine Shop, believes that in 2024, consumers will find themselves surprised by the wine regions coming to the forefront. He predicts, “They’ll unearth regions or states that have previously been snubbed or overlooked.” He goes on to say, “In the coming year, anticipate wines from Finger Lakes, Long Island, Vermont, Michigan, Canada, Armenia, Hungary, Japan, or Patagonia.”

If you’re ready to embark on a wine exploration journey, here are seven regions you should pay special attention to.

Nicholas Schulman, RPM Italian’s Director of Wine in Washington DC, makes a comparison between the effect White Lotus had on Sicily with Sideways’ influence on California Merlot. “For better or worse, the Hollywood effect on wine is irrefutable! HBO’s White Lotus Season 2 was a huge hit, resulting in a surge in Sicilian wine requests.” Schulman praises the attention being given to Sicilian wines, “Sicily’s active Volcano, Etna, is known to produce unique, exciting, terroir-driven, high energy wines that can compete with the best Burgundys and Barolos.”

“Etna has gradually been gaining world prestige, and now we’re seeing big players, like Gallo, entering the market,” says Daniel Beedle, assistant food, and beverage director at Kimpton The Forum Hotel. “I’ve noticed increased popularity in Sicilian reds and whites with some cellar age, showing that consumers view these wines as good investments.”

Sam Bogue, Flour + Water Hospitality Group’s beverage director, highlights how Sicilian reds have become a favourite among diners at the group’s California restaurants. He appreciates how Sicilian wines resonate with the Californian palate, evident in the popularity of variants from Mount Etna to Vittoria. He further encourages embracing Zibibbo and other Sicilian delights as a part of the country’s viticultural scene.

The general manager and wine director of Meli in Washington, DC, Danya Degen, notes the growing popularity of Greek wines. She recalls how customer tastes have evolved from asking for Santorini Assyrtiko to exploring the wines of Naoussa, Drama, and Crete. In the future, she anticipates a growing demand for a Kotsfali and Mandilari red blend from Crete, citing it as a potential successor to Côtes du Rhône.

Schulman links the rise in popularity of Greek wines to the increase in Greek and Mediterranean restaurants opening in the United States. He predicts a boom in Mediterranean wines driven by greater accessibility and the rising trend of Hellenic cuisine. This trend is particularly evident in the increased consumption of flavorful white Assyrtiko wines from Santorini and delectable savoury reds from Naoussa PDO, made from Xinomavro grapes.

Stephen Sherry, the wine director at Melanie Wine Bar, anticipates an increase in the popularity of quality wines from Washington State. He issues a reminder that Washington’s wines weren’t limited to just the big labels of Charles Smith and Chateau St Michelle seen on grocery store aisles. Small-scale producers such as Grammercy, Hedges, and Pursued by Bear were also making extraordinary wines comparable to the best from California.

Armenia is the oldest winemaking region in the world, but its industry suffered heavily under Soviet rule when Georgia was designated the winemaking center and Armenia was given brandy. However, in the past two decades, a dedicated group of producers has begun to rekindle the winemaking culture of the region. Expect to see excellent bottles starting to appear on wine lists, showcasing indigenous grape varieties such as Voskehat, Areni Noir, Tozot (which, if made correctly, drinks like Cru Beaujolais), and Kangun.

“Think about your top five regions,” recommends Ray Shoals, Sommelier at La Fête Wine Co. and founder of The Black Owned Wine Review. “You probably think of places like Champagne, Barolo, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa. But I believe there are some amazing producers in South Africa that can rival many of these at a fraction of the cost!”

Sommelier, writer, and author Jim Clarke claims, “There is a lot of activity in South Africa. White wine drinkers are getting into Chenin Blanc. South Africa’s most-grown variety took a bigger portion of the South African pie within the U.S. market last year, proving that the grape’s ability to appeal equals Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc drinkers is being recognized and appreciated.”

Joseph Lapi, Wine Director for RPM Steak, RPM Italian, RPM Seafood in Chicago, notes, “Every dog has its day, and in 2024, the regions that provide outstanding value will excel.” As far as he’s concerned, it’s the Douro valley, a Portuguese region famous for its port. “The region’s steep slopes and hot climate are perfect for growing a variety of indigenous grape varieties, which are used to produce rich, full-bodied wines with strong fruit flavors and a distinct mineral quality. The combination of unique terroir, high-quality wines, reasonable prices, and growing popularity is why I believe Portugal will be the hot ticket in 2024.”

Jason Alexander, overseeing wine guidance for establishments in San Francisco called Che Fico and Che Fico Alimentari, shows interest in Lazio this year. He states, “The territory continues to progress with the emergence of a new set of winemakers who appreciate native grapes and exploit the distinct terrain of the region.” He elaborates, “Winemakers such as Andrea Occhipinti completely transform perceptions by using skin contact to add richness and texture to white grapes like Procanico while investigating the potential of dry red wines from Aleatico, which were previously recognized for their sweet red wines.”

Let’s usher in 2024 with the hangover from your New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day celebrations hopefully a thing of the past. It’s officially time to welcome Dry January! This campaign, aimed at reducing alcohol consumption, is poised to saturate your social media feeds and echo in your preferred restaurants and bars. If drinking less is among your New Year’s Resolutions, Dry January is likely right up your alley. Not everyone can go an entire month without indulging in a little alcohol, and that’s not for me to judge. Reduce your consumption as best you can, find substitutes that you enjoy, and if alternative wines serve you well and keep you smiling, then it’s a win-win! Bear in mind, Dry January is a suggestion, not an order. Do what benefits you 🙂 And now, allow me to kick off our Dry January Spotlight with a French sparkling wine brand that recently launched their first alcohol-free offering: Veuve Du Vernay.

Image courtesy of Veuve du Vernay

Veuve Du Vernay, considered one of the leading sparkling wine brands in France, has debuted a wonderfully lively alcohol-free sparkling wine for your Dry January evaluation.

Produced following the traditional winemaking process, the VdV team selects the finest Muscat grapes from the Mediterranean coast for harvest once they reach the necessary maturity to provide the best sparkling wine possible. After crushing the grapes they move to a cold-soak process before fermentation. This is done to extract the maximum flavors and aromas from the skins to the juice. When the maceration has finished, a low-temperature fermentation takes place to preserve the aromas.

Once the wine is produced, VdV dealcoholizes using the Reverse Osmosis process: This nanofiltration method remains the most efficient alcohol removing technique, retaining the flavors, aromas, and other elements (nutrients, minerals, vitamins…) present in the wine.

Through this process, the aroma compounds are filtered out and preserved before the alcohol is removed by evaporation. Water and ethanol being the smallest molecules in wine, they pass through the filter more easily than the other elements. Since all the aromatic and nutritive components are not exposed to the heat and turbulence caused by the evaporation, this method allows them to keep the highest integrity of the wines intact, maintaining the original bouquet, character, color, and flavors.

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Learn more about which wines have the fewest calories this week. (Photo by Ken Ross)

Tis the season to make a fresh start.

And for many people, that means cutting back a bit on many things, including food, alcohol or spending.

That’s why I thought I would kick off the new year with a wine column devoted to low-calorie wines.

And if you’re taking a break from alcohol altogether this month, you can read all about no-alcohol wines next week.

So hopefully, these suggested wines this week and next week will come in handy for anyone turning over a new leaf.

Then it’s back to the grindstone and recommending more great wines the rest of the year.

Hope you enjoy.

HOW MANY GLASSES OF WINE IN A BOTTLE?

First, let’s get a few numbers out of the way.

A standard bottle of wine contains 750 milliliters or roughly 25 ounces of wine.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), one bottle of wine contains five glasses of wine.

However, many people, including myself, still believe that a bottle of wine contains four glasses of wine, which works out to 6.25 ounces per glass.

So below, you can find information about how many calories are in a 5-ounce glass and 6.25-ounce glass.

WHICH WINES HAVE THE FEWEST CALORIES?

In most cases, most wines contain roughly 570 to 650 calories per bottle, according to the USDA. The difference between 570 and 650 might not seem like a lot. But when most people only consume 2,000 to 2,700 calories per day, two glasses of wine can add up fast over the course of a meal.

So how many calories do different wines have in each glass? The USDA has information about the number of calories found in a 5-ounce glass of most wines. You can find those numbers below, along with the number of calories for the same wines for a 6.25-ounce glass.

There’s also another wine, Muller Thurgau, that weighs in at 113 calories, but this white wine grown primarily in Germany and Austria isn’t easily available in many American wine stores.

Fortunately, you should have no problem finding gamay wines. Some of the most popular red wines made with gamay grapes can be found in France’s Beaujolais region. This includes Beaujolais Nouveau, the red wine made with gamay grapes fermented for just a few weeks.

Two of my favorite white wines near the top of the list of low-calorie wines: Gewurztraminer (there are many great, affordable ones from the Alsace region of France) and Chenin Blanc (the grape used to make many great, dry white wines from the Vouvray region of France).

The next two wines on the list – sauvignon blanc and riesling – are also some of my favorite white wines. You can find some great, affordable sauvignon blancs from New Zealand. As for riesling, you can find delightful ones throughout the world, including ones made in Germany’s Mosel region, France’s Alsace region and Canada’s Niagara region.

Let me add that most winemakers don’t list how many calories are in each bottle of wine. Why? I suspect it’s because they know that most people don’t want to count calories while they’re drinking their favorite wine.

Wine’s more than just something you have with dinner. It’s a beautiful expression of a particular region’s soul, its character, its rich, dark, soil.

So just because some wines have fewer calories, that doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice anything to find great, distinct, delicious ones.

Cheers!

Wine Press by Ken Ross appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s Weekend section every Thursday.

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There are few things as polarizing as putting ice in your wine glass. But Martha Stewart has given a big win to the pro-ice side by revealing on “The Late Show with Stephen Colbert,” via YouTube, that she puts ice in her white wine. Although she used to think it was wrong, she met vintners while traveling through France and Italy who assured her that it was perfectly fine.

Ultimately, how you like drinking your wine is something only you can decide. If you like ice in your glass of sauvignon blanc, who are we to tell you no? But like everything else in life, there are upsides and downsides to choosing ice. For one, just because Stewart and some European vintners say that it’s okay doesn’t mean that everyone is going to be on the same page. The stigma around ice cubes in wine isn’t as strong as it used to be but not everyone is ready to embrace the trend just yet. Be prepared for a raised eyebrow or two if you make a habit of it.

Iced wine is great for when you forget to chill your wine or just bought the bottle and want to serve it right away. Ice will get you a colder glass of rose, perfect for a hot summer day. The downside is that the ice will melt, eventually watering the wine down, which will negatively affect the flavor. If it happens in cocktails; it happens with wine.

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At times, diluting your wine may indeed be a good idea. If you find yourself at an event where the available wines are too sugary for you, the addition of some ice might reduce the sweetness to a level that is more to your liking. The same strategy can be applied to wine that has been open for several days. Although stale wine won’t cause health issues, the taste won’t be optimal. A bit of ice in your glass could potentially extend the life of the bottle before it needs to be discarded.

The majority of individuals would rather chill their wine using a different method to avoid watering it down. Getting your wine to the correct temperature is a breeze if you plan in advance. If you’re aiming to chill your wine without using ice, there are other wine tricks you could experiment with. However, adding ice to your wine is no longer the major no-no it once was, and Martha Stewart is leading the way in encouraging her followers to step away from the conventional approach.

See the original article on Tasting Table.

Four out of five Nonnas agree – an Italian meal just isn’t complete without a glass of vino. Wine is arguably as much a symbol of the old country as pasta or panettone, such a staple that much of Brooklyn is still dotted with grapevines planted by early Italian immigrants for at-home winemaking.

Apart from wine, the other cornerstone of Sunday dinner tends to be a big pot of marinara sauce, whether it’s being used as the base for a meat dish or simply accompanying a bowl of spaghetti. If you enjoy serving your loved ones hearty dishes powered by the

classic red sauce, offering your guests a wine that complements it beautifully is essential.

Your first guess might be to opt for an Italian red. This is a good start, but understanding the specific flavor notes of a good tomato sauce will help narrow down the options and find a wine pairing that enhances both the food and the drink.

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Generally, white wine pairs well with white sauces and red wine with red sauces. This association is not determined by color but rather by the nature of the sauces and wines. Light-bodied wines containing sufficient acidity to offset the richness but not strong enough to overpower the subtle flavors of the food complement butter- and cream-based sauces perfectly. On the other hand, red wines, which are typically fuller-bodied boasting a range of robust and varied flavors, are suited to pair with a flavorful tomato sauce. Tomato sauces can possess several tantalizing flavors such as sweetness, umami, fruitiness, herby, and tanginess, making them ideal for red wines.

Acidity is the most critical aspect of selecting wine, according to some connoisseurs. Since tomatoes are quite an acidic food, it’s beneficial to choose wines with similar acidity levels. This advice means you should steer clear of full-bodied reds with high tannin content or those aged in oak barrels, which result in heavy, woody flavors. Tannins give a bitter taste, creating a beautiful, complex bouquet of flavors in a glass of Bordeaux or Cabernet. However, they might create a clashing, discordant result with zesty, acidic tomato sauce, leaving neither tasting as good as it should.

While considering light-to-medium bodied tangy reds low in bitterness, there are a few varieties that fit in perfectly. Barbera, a sprightly, juicy Piedmontese red perfectly paired with tomato and garlic, is a favorite among experts. Chianti, the quintessential Tuscan red similar to Barbera, is high in acidity and characterized by more earthy, herbal, and even smoky flavors. If you prefer something drier, an Etna Rosso from the Sicilian peak, while zingy, imparts more earthy, bitter tastes that won’t overwhelm the tomato sauce’s vibrancy.

There isn’t a rule that confines you to Italian varieties. Pinot noir, known as a versatile match for various dishes, pairs well with tomatoes, particularly the “new world” pinots from California and Oregon. The robust, fruity flavor of Zinfandel is sufficient to pair with hearty tomato dishes like bolognese. Wines from the Rhône region, like Grenache and Syrah, are known for their balanced blend of fruitiness, complex minerals, and herbaceous notes. When matching wine with tomato sauce, there are ample options available. And if it requires testing a few different bottles to find your favorite, consider it a small sacrifice for (culinary) science.

Read the original article on Daily Meal.

If we had one small wish for the new year, it would be that sweet wines make a comeback. In a recent Oeno Files newsletter piece on Port, we lamented the fact that we’re no longer asked if we want a sweet wine with our dessert in restaurants; we are just offered cappuccino and espresso. This happens even in fine-dining establishments, which have a dedicated selection of by-the-glass sweet wines sharing space with the dessert menu. It’s no wonder that legacy sweet wine regions like Portugal’s Douro Valley (the home of Port) and Hungary’s Tokaj-Hegyalja (birthplace of Tokaj) are producing dry wines alongside their luscious, sweet offerings. Don’t get us wrong, we love a good dry Douro red or Hungarian Furmint, but we would love to see sweet wine regain its standing among wine lovers.

There is an unfortunate misconception among wine drinkers that wine with higher residual sugar (RS) is cheap and not to be taken seriously. Prior to the Prohibition, Americans brought their sweet tooth to the liquor store, and fortified or Port-style wines—what the Australians call “stickies”—reigned supreme. With the destruction of the United States wine industry under the Prohibition and the post-WWII shift toward fine, dry vino from France and Italy in the middle of the 20th century, sweet wine fell out of favor. Although there are bursts here and there of a comeback, usually fueled by sommeliers and wine journalists, we have not seen a sustained movement toward a return to the glory days of sweet wine.

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Some of the finest wines in the world are sweet. What sets a well-made option apart is its acidity, which keeps the sugar in check and keeps the wine from feeling overly cloying. Due to their high sugar content and high acidity, sweet wines age beautifully and will last for many years when properly cellared. And while we love these with dessert or even on their own at the end of a meal, we also like the idea of serving them with savory appetizers or main courses. Here are the main styles to look for:

Fortified: Neutral spirits or brandy are added to wine during fermentation, which kills the yeast and maintains a higher level of residual sugar. Fortified wines such as Port, Madeira, and Marsala have a higher sugar content than dry wine as well as a higher alcohol level.

Late Harvest: This is a specific way of producing wine where the grapes are left on the vine for an extended period, typically one to two months past the normal harvest time. This process allows the grapes to dry out, thus concentrating the sugar content within them.

Ice Wine: A distinctive form of wine made from grapes that have been frozen while still on the vine. Harvest often occurs as late as December or January. The freezing process results in the water inside the grapes freezing while the sugar does not. This leads to a sweeter wine with a concentrated flavor profile.

Passito: Passito refers to wines made from dried grapes. As the grapes dry, the sugar within is concentrated, producing a wine with a higher sugar content and increased alcohol level.

Botrytized: This term is associated with the gray mold known as Noble Rot or Botrytis cinerea. This mold dehydrates the grapes, increasing their fruit sugars and acids. The result is a wine with an intense, sweet flavor profile deriving from these more concentrated berries.

Fortified wine can originate from any location, but botrytized wines and ice wine rely on specific weather and climatic conditions, limiting their production to a few specialised regions. The term “passito,” a style of wine from Italy, may be familiar to those with a basic understanding of Italian. This article presents a selection of the world’s finest sweet wines.

The regions of Sauternes and Barsac, completely enclosed within Bordeaux, constitute about 2% of the area of the region. Yet, wine producers in these zones stress that they were awarded 27 grand crus in the renowned classification of 1855. The prevailing weather conditions, with foggy mornings and sunny afternoons, are conducive for the growth of Botrytis cinerea, bestowing upon the wines their rich texture and flavours of citrus and apricot preserves, caramelised pineapple and subtle traces of baking spices, with hints of beeswax and acacia honey.

The authorised grape varieties for these wines are Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. Typically, Semillon constitutes 80% of the grapes used in the final wine, with Sauvignon Blanc making up 20%, and a miniscule percentage of Muscadelle adding significant intensity to the aroma. Some recommended bottles come from Château d’Yquem, Château Rieussec, Château Climens, Château de Fargues, and Château Caillou.

These wines pair excellently with savoury dishes such as blue cheese, foie gras, fried chicken, grilled pork chops, and butternut squash risotto.

Dessert Pairings: Apple pie, peach pie, pear tart, crème brulée.

Made from botrytized Furmint, Harslevelu, and Muscat Blanc grapes, Tokaji Aszú was referred to as the “The King of wines, the wine of Kings” by Louis XIV. Unaffected grapes are harvested initially in September to produce the base wine, with the rest of the grapes left on the vine to fall under the influence of botrytis. These grapes shrink, concentrating their sugars until the later harvesting phase in late October or November. The botrytized grapes that are harvested are placed in large baskets known as puttony and then added to 136-liter barrels of base wine. The quantity of sweet grape baskets added to the base wine gives the Tokaji Aszú the Puttonyos rating of 5 or 6 Puttonyos, with 6 Puttonyos being the sweetest on the Puttonyos scale.

For a Tokaji Aszú wine to be designated as a 5 Puttonyos wine today, it needs to have a minimum of 120 grams per liter of residual sugar. A wine marked as 6 Puttonyos needs to contain at least 150 grams per liter of residual sugar. The Eszencia wine can be as sweet as 450 grams per liter and is quite the rarity. The flavor boasts dried apricots, canned pineapple, tropical fruits, and white blossoms, with a smooth palate feel and well-balanced acidity. Notable producers include Oremus, Royal Tokaji, Diznoko, Chateau Dereszla, and Patricius.

Savory Pairings: Gorgonzola, Stilton, or Cabrales cheese, foie gras, Peking Duck, Thai curries.

Dessert Pairings: Vanilla or dulce de leche ice cream, crème caramel, tarte tatin.

A style of sweet, fortified wine from the Douro Valley, Port is made with with five main red-grape varieties, but 80 varieties are allowed. Many Ports are “field” blends, with multiple varieties picked and vinified together. Here, the neutral spirit is known as aguardiente. Port is made in two main styles, Ruby and Tawny.

Ruby Ports are deep red to violet in color, with full texture and flavors of blackberry, cassis, black cherry, and notes of licorice, clove, and anise. Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Ports are from a single harvest year and are aged four to six years before bottling. Vintage Ports are made from the best wines from a single exceptional harvest. They are aged in wood for approximately two years prior to bottling and will continue to age in the bottle for many more years. The finest are from single estates called quintas; the label will include the producer’s name, quinta name, and vintage year. Vintage Ports come only from “declared” years, meaning they are not made every year. Recent standout vintages include 2020, 2017, 2016, 2014, and 2011. Excellent producers include Taylor-Fladgate, Fonseca, Croft, Quinta de la Rosa, Quinta de Noval, and Warre’s.

Savory Pairings: Pulled pork sandwiches, barbecued ribs, Stilton, Epoisses.

Dessert Pairings: Brownies, chocolate lava cake, pecan pie.

The name of tawny Port derives from the amber “tawny” hue it obtains from aging in barrels. This type of Port also gets a pleasant nutty or oxidative texture due to its prolonged stay in wood. There are four variations of Tawny Port: Tawny, Tawny Reserve, Tawny with an Indication of Age (10, 20, 30, or 40 years old) and Colheita. Only Colheita originates from a single year’s harvest and has to be wood-aged for a minimum of seven years. For the remaining three variations, a combination of different years’ harvests may be used. The complexity of Aged Tawnies is astounding, thanks to the extensive barrel aging. Recently, there have also been introductions of 50-year tawny Port into the market. We can anticipate complex flavors like dried fruits, nuts, and caramel balanced against a robust acidity. Some of our recommended choices include Graham’s, Kopke, Dow’s, Quinta do Vallado, and Quinta do Crasto.

Savory Pairings: Sauteed chicken with mushrooms, risotto with walnuts and blue cheese, roast suckling pig.

Dessert Pairings: Cheesecake, butter pecan ice cream, chocolate mousse.

The Italian winemaking method being used since the Roman Empire’s era involves the process of partially dehydrating grapes on their vines towards the end of the season. These grapes are then further dried on large screens either under the full sun or inside facilities equipped with good ventilation. The drying process can last from a few weeks to a maximum of six months. After drying, these grapes are prepped for fermentation. Among the two leading types of wine produced through this method are Vin Santo and Passito di Pantelleria.

Vin Santo, which translates to “holy wine,” hails from the region of Tuscany. This wine is produced using Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Sangiovese. If you have ever visited a restaurant in Florence, Siena, or any part of the Tuscan countryside and you received a glass of sweet wine after your meal, this might just be the wine you had. It may taste a bit “hot” on first taste, but it eventually brings out flavors of orange marmalade, honey, almond, hazelnut, and toffee. Famed producers of Vin Santo include Avignonesi, Capezzana, Marchese Antinori, and Isole e Olena.

For the savory pairing, try combining it with chicken cooked in peanut sauce or pasta mixed with walnut sauce. As for the dessert pairings, it can best be paired with biscotti, almond cookies, or pignoli cookies.

Passito di Pantelleria originates from a tiny island located near Sicily and is crafted from the Muscat of Alexandria grape, locally referred to as Zibibbo. It offers delightful tastes of preserved apricot, honeycomb, canned peach, and butterscotch. Some of the top bottles of Passito di Pantelleria are produced by Donnafugata Ben Rye, Carole Bouquet, Cantine Pellegrino, and Marco De Bartoli.

Suggested Savory Food Pairings: Pair it with chicken marsala, crunchy roast pork, or pasta mixed with blue cheese.

Best Dessert Pairings: It complements fig cookies, apple pie, or cheesecake.

Ice Wine is a product of Canada’s Niagara Peninsula, Germany, and various European countries. True to its name, Ice Wine is manufactured from grapes that have naturally frozen on the vine. Riesling and Gewürztraminer are primary choices in Europe, whereas Canada also incorporates Vidal, a white crossbred grape extensively cultivated in Canada and New York State. There are red variants available, made with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and other grapes. Every year, it is increasingly challenging to attain the low temperatures necessary for this style, given that the grapes must be naturally frozen on the vine and harvested when the weather is 20° F. The German versions are termed Eiswein. Regardless of where it’s made, a high-quality white ice wine includes flavors of apricot, peach, honey, and subtle baking-spice, along with pronounced acidity and a syrupy texture. Cabernet Franc–based ice wine presents flavors of baking spice, white chocolate, cherry, and blackberry. Some of the best Canadian producers comprise Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs, Peller Estates, and Mission Hill. The top German bottles are brought to you by Egon Müller, Schloss Johannisberg, Dr. Loosen, and Weingut Donnhoff.

Savory Pairings: Fried chicken, blue cheese, baked brie, caramelized onion quiche.

Dessert Pairings: Flan, cheesecake, rum raisin ice cream.

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