Wine 603

If there was a war raging in your country, it’s hard to imagine that you would be thinking of making wine. But that’s what 160 winemakers in Ukraine do. They still make wine. February 24 marked two years since Russia invaded Ukraine. The war zone extends along all of the eastern border and the south along the shores of the Black Sea. That’s also the region where most of Ukraine’s vineyards are located. So, perhaps now is an excellent time to give a thought to those courageous winemakers and take a close look at what they do. The upcoming ProWein wine show in Düsseldorf, Germany, will be an occasion to taste these wines.

Vineyards in Ukraine, courtesy of Wines of Ukraine

Ukraine is a very big agricultural country. It ranks on the world’s top-ten list of biggest producers of sunflowers, barley, wheat, and corn, although production has been severely hampered by the war. However, today, the Ukrainian vineyards are modest in size, around 30,000 hectares (75,000 acres). That’s about half the size of Hungary or of Bulgaria, or one-sixth of the California grape acreage. There are around 160 officially registered wineries.

Ukraine’s vineyards can be found mainly in the southern part of the country, towards the Black Sea in the Odesa and Kherson regions. You might recognize those names from the war reporting. Crimea has also long been an important wine-producing region but has been under Russian control since 2014, when Russia invaded the peninsula. There are also extensive vineyards in the westernmost part of Ukraine, on the border to Hungary and Slovakia, in the region called Zakarpattia. But there are also wine producers in several other parts of the country but on a smaller scale.

Kostiantyn Tintulov, co-owner of Vinhol Oksamytne / Villa Tinta winery in Ukraine, copyright BKWine …[+] Photography

Eduard Gorodetskyi, founder and owner of myWine winery in Ukraine, copyright BKWine Photography

In a time when unusual and indigenous grapes have become trendy, Ukraine has much to offer wine lovers and wine drinkers who want to explore new things. There are numerous local (indigenous) grape varieties to explore: telti-kuruk, sukholimansky white, citronny of magarach, kokur, odessa black, ekim kara, magarach bastardo. I recently had the opportunity to taste Odessa black, and black it was indeed. It was dense, almost dark, intense fruit and had a strong backbone structure. It is what is called in French a tinturier, in other words, the grape juice is dark red (almost all red grapes have a clear juice). It’s a crossing between cabernet sauvignon and alicante Bouchet (also a teinturier). It was developed in Ukraine in the 1950s. But they also have many international grape varieties, of course.

I have only tasted a handful of Ukrainian wines so far, so it is difficult to have an opinion of the country as a whole. The odessa black that I mentioned above was certainly one that had great potential, as well as some made from the more “traditional” international varieties. Some were semi-sweet, which might not be so suited for the export markets.

Villa Tinta Odesa Black wine, Ukraine, copyright BKWine Photography

Ukrainian wine exports were a modest $9 million in 2023, which is perhaps not surprising. More surprising is that they managed to make and export any wine at all while the war was raging. They have an export promotional organisation called Wines of Ukraine, which this year will participate in the big international trade fair ProWein in Düsseldorf (Germany) on March 10-12. Sixteen wineries, an impressive 10% of all producers in the country, will be represented there. It will undoubtedly be an excellent opportunity to discover some unusual wines as well as to support a country at war.

Several international projects are ongoing in Ukraine to help support and develop the wine sector, as well as the rest of the agricultural business, USAID, the United Nations and even the Swedish government.

—Per Karlsson

Iced wine on a summer day is very enjoyable and ice clinking in a glass sounds so refreshing. Surely it can’t be all that bad?

It started out as a joke – a bit of a laugh. It was a tribute to the inner-bogan-larrikin I’ve been gradually coming to terms with since I hit 30 and stopped trying to be more sophisticated than I truly am.

However, it’s gone beyond a joke now. It’s getting out of hand. I’m thinking of doing it in public. At nice places, with elegant people. And I’m worried I can’t stop.

So I decided to dial a legitimate expert for help.

“Peter,” I say, when he answers. “I have a problem.”

He waits. He’s a wine guy. This could be going anywhere.

“I’ve started putting ice in my wine.”

Generous peals of laughter gush forth like the foam from a freshly sabraged bottle of fancy Frenchy. I’m not surprised. I’m on the phone with Peter Marchant, a wine guy with chops (certified sommelier, Queensland wine judge, past member of the national executive for Sommeliers Australia, etc). Eventually, the ferment of his amusement subsides, he catches his breath, and asks me what sounds like a significant question.

“OK, OK, OK. What colour?”

(Turns out I do still care about appearing more sophisticated than I actually am, because I gloss over the cab sav I washed down with a few cubes before Christmas.)

“White,” I reply, before specifying the wine is still white wine. Still. I take care to emphasise this as I hope it may help me recover some of my reputation. At least white is served cold, after all.

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“Look,” Marchant explains. “You can do whatever the hell you like to your wine in private, but I’d think twice before doing it at a nice place, in front of people, or with a good wine someone’s taken time and trouble with.”

The ice freezes out the flavour, he says, dilutes the drink and interrupts the path of the plonk out of the glass, into your mouth and over your tongue. Why punish your palate, and ruin the wine?

Because it’s hot in Queensland in summer, I say. And the sound of ice clinking in a glass sounds refreshing. And surely it can’t be all that bad; it’s not like I’m icing my beer …

Picking up on my disappointment, my patient sommelier friend cheers me up by recounting the many times he’s seen someone sheepishly ask for ice, only to discover dining companions relieved to have license to follow suit.

Like dinner at 5pm and rissoles, putting ice in wine is a familiar, undercover Australian habit, acknowledging those who prefer their boxed white wine straight from the fridge. These are the same folks who recall when pharmacies sold olive oil, championed Cheerio sausages, and chose not to articulate the ‘h’ in chardonnay. This nostalgic and humble approach to wine makes me feel recognized and surprisingly proud.

The truth is, on a warm day, iced white wine can often be more pleasurable than its lukewarm counterpart, particularly if you’re soaking up the rays in Queensland. That very same sunshine bestows upon Queenslanders a “too hot to be serious” attitude. Indeed, there’s a hint of unsophistication about it, but that’s part of my heritage; I see no reason to pretend otherwise.

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Then comes a revelation, from the wine guy himself.

“And hey, on some occasions, in some circumstances, you could say ice in your white wine might actually improve it.”

Wait. What?

Ice will mask flavours, he explains, so your experience of an “average, commercially made, beige white wine” could be improved with ice. Especially if it’s hot, and especially if you’re dining alfresco. These sorts of wines (never mind the varieties; he’s talking about the ones you tend to find in the $5-$15 range) don’t have the same complexity as their more cultivated companions. As a general rule of thumb, it seems, the more effort someone has put into making the wine, the less you want to fiddle around with it. Especially if the fiddling involves adding flavour-diluting blocks of frozen water.

“What if,” I wonder aloud, “I made ice cubes out of the nice white wine I was drinking?” (I realise how desperate this sounds before I finish the sentence.)

“Look,” he says, in his best, trained-in-hospitality voice, “how about you try smaller pours, smaller glasses, and an ice-bucket, because when it comes to wine, generally speaking, that’s where the ice belongs. In the bucket.”

I thank him for his advice, we end our conversation, via an anecdote about the wine slushie trend of the late 20-teens, and his reminder that “room temperature” in summer in Queensland bears little to no resemblance to the European “room temperature” you’re supposed to serve wine at. For this reason, he keeps his wine fridge set to about 12C. That way he can look forward to reds that won’t take long to warm to their 18C peak if needed, and whites that could be ready to drink or only take five minutes in the big fridge to cool down a little more (their optimum is generally eight to 13C).

“And if you can’t wait that five minutes for your glass of white wine,” he finishes, “then your problem probably isn’t the ice.”

Katherine Feeney is a journalist and broadcaster who presents Afternoons on ABC Radio Brisbane

HARRISBURG, Pa. (WHTM) — The Pennsylvania Department of Agriculture says a new study found that Pennsylvania’s Wine and Grape industry now ranks fourth in the nation in production.

Previously, in 2018, Pennsylvania was ranked fifth in the study.

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The study, funded by the department’s Wine and Research Program, included data on wine and juice grape vineyards, juice processors, wine wholesale and retail sales, research and education, wineries, and wine tourism.

Specifically, this study found that our wine and grape industry supports 10,756 jobs across the state and contributes $1.77 billion to the state economy annually. Furthermore, since 2018, Pennsylvania’s grape production has grown by about 970 tons per year.

Harrisburg International Airport losing an airline

It is also worth mentioning that the study saw that Pennsylvania’s 326 wineries generate $747 million in tourism revenue every year.

“Pennsylvania’s wine and grape industry is a tremendous asset to our economy and undeniably adds to quality of life in every region of the state,” Secretary Redding said. “The thriving industry brings visitors to our countryside and small towns, provides nutritious juice for our youngest consumers, and wines that pair with locally-grown foods on restaurant and family tables. The Shapiro Administration is proud to invest in the industry’s future and the future of families and communities who depend on it.”

According to PDA, Governor Josh Shapiro’s proposed 2024-25 budget invests over $36 million into the wine and grape industry, which includes:

$10.3 million is being invested into the agriculture sector for the purpose of innovation and the enhancement of new farm enterprises. This includes endeavors related to energy and conservation. Moreover, it will also help in shaping the future of American farming, especially in Pennsylvania.

$145,000 is being allocated to an innovative pest detection program. This program leverages dogs for the detection of pests in order to mitigate potential outbreaks, eliminating the need for costly and harmful pesticides.

$2.18 million is allocated to Agriculture Research to aid the industry in adopting and integrating emerging technologies. This funding also aims to equip the industry in dealing with challenges such as disease, pests, and climate change.

$8 million is designated for the Agriculture Conservation Assistance Program. The funds will be used to implement solutions that safeguard soil and water resources, two critical components for the longevity of our agriculture.

$2.9 million for trademark licensing for PA Preferred®, which is Pennsylvania’s official brand for locally-grown agricultural products. This money will also be used to increase consumer confidence in the quality and integrity of organic foods.

$13 million to fund the historic PA Farm Bill, which will feed progress across Pennsylvania’s $132 billion agriculture industry through the use of grants and initiatives that will build the future workforce, promote sales of PA-grown and made products, expand market opportunities, conserve resources and more.

To find out more about Pennsylvania’s wine trails, and events in your region, you can click here.

For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to ABC27.

We can all agree, a trip to the desert is often a welcome change. The sun is shining, the cocktails are delightful, the pool feels like a warm embrace. Our usual hurried life slows down, and the setting makes us crave good food and drinks. It’s at this point that Morgan’s in The Desert at La Quinta Resort & Club comes in, ready to deliver Morgan’s Wine Series for monthly dinner and wine pairings.

On March 6th, Morgan’s in The Desert is set to welcome Grgich Hills Estate, renowned for its top-notch Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The winery’s founder, Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, recently passed away at the age of 100. This occasion presents a perfect opportunity to pay tribute to his significant contribution to the wine industry while enjoying meal and drinks in the serene desert setting.

1st COURSE
Smoked Hawaiin Tuna with Saffron Lavash, Pumpkin Aioli, Tobiko Caviar
Grgich Hills Estate Rose 2022

2nd COURSE
Seared Stone Sea Bass, Crisp Potato, Béarnaise Foam
Grgich Hills Estate Chardonnay 2021

3rd COURSE
Snake River Short Rib, Pumpkin Risotto, Crisp Parsnip, Caramelized Balsamic Onion
Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet 2019
Grgich Hills Yountville Old Vine Cabernet 100 Birthday Commemorative Wine

4th COURSE
Brie Couronne with Prosciutto, Puff Pastry & Candied Bosc Pear
Grgich Hill Estate Late Harvest Violetta 2018

Four Course Experience | $150 Per Person*

*Prices do not include tax or gratuity

To make a reservation, please contact Morgan’s in The Desert at 760.564.7600 or via their website.

Courtesy of Morgan’s at The Desert

MK: Why is it important to include these dishes at the Grgich Hills Estate dinner, and how do they compliment the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon the brand is famous for?

AC: The 2021 Miljenkos Selection Chardonnay is luminous and exquisite with aromas of fresh citrus, cucumber, and honeycomb, followed by a hint of vanilla and cracked pepper. We matched this wine with our Seared Sea Bass because of the full natural flavor of the fish, which is magnified by the citrus notes of the Chardonnay.

For the third course, we opted for two Cabernet Sauvignon choices, the Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet 2019 and the Grgich Hills Yountville Old Vine Cabernet 100 Birthday Commemorative Wine. The latter was created in honor of Mike Grgich’s centenary celebration that I was fortunate to be a part of, which made it critical to include this wine in the dinner. This abundant yet elegant and balanced wine is a fantastic tribute to his legacy. The wine begins with complex aromas of tangy blackberry, rosehip, raspberry, and blood orange, followed by flavors of sweet cherry, violet, and rosemary. This wine originated from one of the oldest cabernet sauvignon vineyards in Napa Valley, which makes it truly exceptional.

Contemplating all the wonderful dinners we’ve enjoyed with Mike, it was difficult to decide on the type of cuisine to pair with his astounding wine collection. Cooking a dish for a longer period results in richer flavors that develop more character and maturity. We selected the Snake River’s short rib dish, which is slowly braised with herbs for 6 hours, in homage to Mike’s long and fruitful life.

MK: Why did you feel it was important to include these dishes?

AC: When you have a connection with the person who created the wines, creating the cuisine to pair with it becomes even more transcendent. Every relationship develops with time, being able to build upon it year over year only ignites the creativity which gets expressed on our plates. We continue to develop relationships one plate at a time…

Stay tuned for upcoming Morgan’s Wine Series events:

April 10th: Rodney Strong Vineyards

May 8th: Taste of France Dinner

Visitto learn more and to make reservations to attend the wine series dinners.

The Jersey City Wine Fest returns to the Atrium at Harborside in Downtown Jersey City on Saturday, March 2, with over 100 wines to sample as well as food from local restaurants. (Richard J. McCormack | For The Jersey Journal) Journal File Photo

Over 100 styles of wine will be available to sample when the Jersey City Wine Festival returns to the Harborside Atrium on Saturday, March 2, with two sessions from 1 to 4:30 p.m. and 6 to 9:30 p.m.

Each ticket includes entry to the event; samples of wine from around the world, a souvenir tasting glass, live music and access to food, vendors and merchandise.

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While attempting to score wine deals at Costco, you may have come across the term “reserve” on certain wine labels. This essentially implies that the wine has undergone unique aging methods before being made available for purchase. Traditionally, wine makers would hold back some of their best wine to let it mature for a longer period before releasing it. This practice of keeping a reserve of particular wine batches is what led to the term “reserve” we see on modern wine bottles today.

Although “reserve” might hint towards a high-quality wine, it doesn’t necessarily guarantee it. In some parts of wine-producing nations like Italy and Spain, the usage of this term is legally controlled, allowing only wines that meet specific growing, aging, and storing standards to be labelled as such. On the other hand, in many parts of the world, including the United States, the term “reserve” has no legal definition and can be used to label any wine, irrespective of the aging criteria.

Read More: 10 Of The Healthiest Beers You Can Drink

In Italy, for a wine to be labeled “reserve” or “riserva”, it must abide by specific aging and storage regulations specific to that region. For instance, a Chianti can only be labelled and sold as a “riserva” if it has undergone at least 24 months of aging, with a mandatory 3 months’ bottle fining. This information can be attributed to an Italian vineyard called Carus.

The process of maturation starts from January 1, after the harvest season. Similar to this, strict regulations are also applied for assessing all kinds of Italian wines which aim for the ‘riserva’ label. After fulfilling the minimum criteria, the wine has to exhibit certain attributes, be it color or acidity. These particular rules ensure that the region exports a high-standard product to the rest of the globe.

Comparable systems are also found in Spain and Portugal, where the specialized wine is labeled as ‘reserva’ (not to be confused with Italy’s ‘riserva’). Similar to Italy, these nations too have split their wine-growing areas into regions with precise requirements governing which wines can legally take up the ‘reserva’ label. Along with storage and aging requirements, Portugal also sets the level of alcohol percentage for its ‘reserva’ bottles. As per an article by renowned wine experts Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen in the Robb Report, Portugal ‘reserva’ wines need to contain 0.5% to 1% more alcohol per bottle compared to their nationally sanctioned regional minimums.

Outside of these regulated regions, the term ‘reserve’ doesn’t have a clear definition and can imply various things, or sometimes, nothing at all. In the United States, the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TBB) regulates the wine, but it presently doesn’t have a definition for ‘reserve’. In 2010, the TBB proposed a legal definition for several winemaking terms. However, the proposed rules were never enacted, and so, the term ‘reserve’ continues to be used without a concrete legal definition.

In the absence of any guiding principles from the federal government, some regions have taken the responsibility of setting quality standards into their own hands. In the onset of the century, winemakers in Washington established the Washington Wine Quality Alliance, which defined its own standards for the ‘reserve’ labels. According to an old report by Wine Spectator, members of the alliance decided to limit their ‘reserve’ batches to 10% or less of the total production. Vineyards outside Washington, in the United States, still market certain bottles with the ‘reserve’ label. However, as there is no standard agreement dictating what exactly makes a ‘reserve’ bottle, it is often used as more of a marketing strategy without any legal repercussions.

Read the original article on Daily Meal.

Dr. Laura Catena of Catena Wines

Being an environmental pioneer, you would think it’s easy to commit to international wine sustainability accords, isn’t that so? That’s not the case, says Dr. Laura Catena, a fourth-generation winegrower at Argentina’s Catena Wines. While the idea behind these agreements may appear straightforward, implementing them often involves challenges, ranging from technical issues to low uptake by consumers. Moreover, many international accords, though achievable — with some effort — for European and American wineries, can struggle when applied in developing nations like Argentina.

In a recent discussion, Dr. Catena highlighted the considerable obstacles that the wine industry confronts in bringing about lasting and quantifiable change in the area of environmental sustainability. Dr. Catena, who is also a doctor, author, and the founder of the Catena Institute of Wine, has made substantial progress in this field at her family’s winery, reducing the weight of bottles by 40% across the whole range since 2010. The company has just introduced a 380 gram bottle for its popular on-site wine in the U.S., Catena Appellation Malbec, lowering its weight from 700 grams per bottle (for reference, ultra-premium wine bottles range from 550 to 1,200 grams when empty).

Dr. Catena has also brought in an innovation with the Bodegas de Argentina Sustainability Code, which is based on Catena Wines’ own in-house sustainability code. Rolled out in 2010, the protocol look into all vineyard and winery inputs and outputs, providing guidance on everything from water conservation planning to best practices in human resources. Now it has been adopted by approximately 215 wineries in Argentina. The success of this code demonstrates the importance of adapting sustainability initiatives to local conditions, rather than strictly adhering to international standards, such as solar power requirements, that may not be practical in certain countries.

Dr. Catena, in her interview, elucidates the difficulties faced in achieving sustainability universally and on a global scale. She emphasizes the crucial role of invention, partnerships, and learning in addressing these problems, and provides a model for others to emulate.

Erica Duecy: Catena has an extensive record of supporting sustainability. Would you elaborate on the Bodegas de Argentina Sustainability Code and the current status of this project?

Dr. Laura Catena: Let’s start by reviewing the backdrop of participation in global wine sustainability agreements. Operating in non-first world countries presents distinct challenges that have not been addressed by several international wine sustainability groups. They fail to comprehend the scenario of working in Argentina. For instance, one of these groups required that you commit to transitioning to solar power within a specific timeframe. That’s simply not feasible in Argentina, given the scarcity of solar technology or infrastructure. Moreover, there’s no government support for such an endeavor, and solar energy is significantly more expensive than gas. Whereas Europe has access to electric tractors, these are not even available in Argentina. Furthermore, there’s the harsh reality of poverty in Argentina – a rural inhabitant’s carbon footprint is only a quarter the size of an American’s. So, this is a completely different situation.

This led us to the understanding that carbon emission reduction strategies need to be adapted to local conditions. This was the genesis of the Bodegas de Argentina Sustainability Code, a program initiated by Catena in 2008 and officially launched in 2010. Currently, 215 wineries have earned certification in accord with the sustainability code, and it enjoys international recognition.

The latest development is a commitment to carbon footprint measurement, based on a carbon calculator developed for wineries in Argentina by the certification consultancy LSQA. We partnered with LSQA with the intention that once it was developed, we could allow other companies access to its design, so it could be adopted widespread, beyond just Catena wines. We then contacted Wines of Argentina to assist us in promoting this service, which is happening presently.

Catena is on schedule to be the first winery with audited carbon emissions measurement. The new version of the code includes the following measures. First, the organization has a climate action plan, approved by its management. Second, the organization has set objectives for emission reduction. Third, the organization has computed its greenhouse gas emissions and established an action plan for reduction in line with its reduction goals. Fourth, the organization openly shares its objectives and communicates its advances toward mitigating climate change.

Question: How much of a wine’s carbon footprint is due to glass weight?

Answer: Some estimates suggest the glass weight can account for up to 60% of a wine’s carbon footprint. This includes manufacturing, hauling from a production facility to a winery, and transport once filled with wine to the end consumer. The highest emissions result from land transportation, not sea transportation.

The contribution of glass to the carbon footprint of a bottle of wine has been found to be even higher in Argentina, according to a study sponsored by the United Nations Environment Programme. The group, based at a university, found that the bottle alone, without considering other packaging, accounted for 58% of the carbon footprint of a locally-sold wine bottle in Argentina.

In their findings, the manufacturing and packaging stages were the most emission-intensive, contributing 63% of emissions, with 58% being due to the creation of the glass bottle. The agricultural stage gave rise to 30% of emissions, while 7% were due to winery processes, including electricity used in vinification. The last 1% of emissions were due to local distribution within Argentina. Thus, this distribution varies based on where the final buyer resides.

Duecy: Could you elucidate why the project to reduce the weight of glass bottles is so critical to you?

Dr. Catena: Our aim is to enhance the profile of Argentine wine for the next 200 years. Achieving this necessitates taking climate change seriously and contributing to efforts aimed at reducing climate emissions, both at home in Argentina and globally. This effort to reduce bottle weight is part and parcel of this commitment and has been an ongoing project for us at Catena for over ten years. We’ve made significant strides in reducing the weights of our volume wines. Over the last decade, we’ve recorded a 40% reduction in bottle weights across our Catena Family Wineries.

The average weight of high-end wine bottles typically ranges from 550 to 1,200 grams when they are empty. Catena is planning on reducing the weight of their Catena Appellation Malbec bottles from the original 700 grams down to 380 grams. Additionally, the company plans to decrease the weight of their Catena High Mountain Vines Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon bottles for export markets from 700 to 480 grams. These are significant changes and have the potential to save around 1,200 metric tons of glass annually.

There has been increased attention to this issue, most notably from European wine buyers. A retail chain has requested a commitment from us to reduce our carbon emissions by 45% by the year 2026. The only feasible way I can achieve is by harnessing solar power, but the current lack of an effective electrical grid in my country for solar power makes this an unlikely feat. Nevertheless, the requests come as they are required by their respective governments to reduce emissions. We have been continually communicating with the retailer in regards to what we can realistically achieve. Thankfully, some are willing to cooperate and understand our limitations. We are doing everything we can, but often the results are not as substantial as wineries situated in countries with more developed infrastructure.

Duecy: Could you tell us about the challenges you faced when you decided to switch to lighter bottles?

Dr. Catena: The transition to lighter bottles is rather challenging. Thankfully, we work with Verallia, a French glass manufacture that prioritizes mitigating climate change and has a factory based in Argentina. This allows us to make use of the advanced technology from France in Argentina. Creating lighter bottles requires a robust understanding of the process and the technology. For instance, there are areas on the bottles that are prone to fracturing. Furthermore, the shift to significantly lighter bottles, those weighing less than 400 grams, creates additional challenges on the bottling line. They are more susceptible to breakage and thus cannot be transported at the same speed along the line.

We certainly don’t want to rely on a single supplier, hence our need for additional manufacturers for the lighter bottles. We maintain collaborations with numerous glass manufacturers, which aids in keeping our glass costs low. Therefore, we need other producers to also transition to lighter glass bottles.

From a consumer awareness standpoint, there is also a hurdle to overcome. Currently, for wines priced between $12 and $15 that are in lighter bottles, the bottle quality is satisfactory. For sub-$15 wines, the brand and reviews predominantly influence consumer decision making, rather than the bottle itself. But for a $100 wine, akin to buying luxury fragrance, customers expect an attractive bottle, a stylish stopper, and a chic bag as they leave the shop. It’s premature to assume that consumers have moved past the desire for these elaborate additions. So, in my view, it is unreasonable to place the responsibility of resolving a worldly issue solely on a wine producer.

Duecy: Is there a significant price fluctuation between lighter and heavier bottles?

Dr. Catena: Typically, pricier bottles cost around $1 to $2. Cheaper bottles can be half that price, although this can differ between countries. It may seem that lighter bottles are less expensive, but in reality, that’s not the case.

Working with lighter bottles can actually be more expensive than heavier bottles. You have more breakage and you need additional quality control for bottle breakage, which is costly. There is absolutely no acceptance of glass in bottles. Hence, both a machine and an individual are required to oversee the process – a significant investment is made to ensure that there is no glass in the bottles. This is a more complex quality control process.

We are yet to reach there, but it’s my belief that we need to get to a point where the consumer should be willing to say, ‘I am ready to pay more or the same to get a lighter bottle, even if its cost is a bit less.’ This is because they understand that the environmental cost is reduced, and it’s worth opting for the change.

Duecy: The first wine that you’re unveiling with the 45% lighter bottle is Catena Appellation Vista Flores Malbec. Why this wine, and what’ll be its rollout strategy?

Dr. Catena: On-premise, there’s a higher chance for an educational campaign – we can lay emphasis on the lighter weight and turn it into a positive factor. This is as opposed to the negative potential of appearing less premium on the shelf, but without an explanation.

We have initiated an educational campaign specifically for the staff of the restaurant floors. The aim is to communicate to the end customer the benefits of utilizing lighter bottles. As part of this initiative, we will design an infographic to train on-campus teams in the U.S, and closely supervise the rollout. By conducting a survey, both pre and post-training session, we will measure the knowledge gained.

In addition, one of our retail partners, Gall & Gall, located in the Netherlands and boasting of more than 300 locations, will also see the launch of our educational campaign. The training of the floor staff will be facilitated through illustrations, and sales and surveys conducted both before and after the training will manage penetration.

Our wines are also set to launch at Angelica, our very own restaurant recognized by Michelin, located at Catena Zapata in Mendoza, Argentina. It is in our plan that the servers at this restaurant receive training and help us gather data on the queries posed by consumers.

Duecy: Could you please let us know about the other products that you plan to launch with lighter bottles and the expected timeline for these launches?

Dr. Catena: All Catena brand wines will transition from 700 gram to 500 gram bottles globally. Many will go even lower, to 480 grams or 380 grams, based on the line. For our Mountain Vines wines, we’re reducing from 700 grams to 480 grams, and have switched to a taller, more slender bottle that is both stylish and lighter. We’ve also updated the labels to better fit this bottle size.

Duecy: Will the bottle designs you’ve created in collaboration with manufacturers be accessible to other wineries?

Dr. Catena: Absolutely, we actually encourage other wine producers to use the same bottles. This ensures a greater supply and more production runs. We make all information about our glass and bottle changes available to other local producers at the Sustainability Code meetings.

Duecy: Many large retailers have signed the SWR Bottle Weight Accord with the intent to lower the average weight of bottles in their stocks to less than 420 grams by the close of 2026. Seemingly, this will necessitate a significant shift in bottle weights from hundreds, if not thousands, of producers. What’s your perspective on engaging producers around this initiative to achieve this goal?

Dr. Catena: Many retailers are expected to endorse this initiative. However, they must also resolve to enlighten their customers and collaborate with brands like ours to launch educational campaigns, equip their staff with the requisite knowledge, and designate signage that communicates, ‘Did you know that bottle weight contributes 60% of wine’s carbon footprint?’ Perhaps there should be a specified shelf section for lighter bottles.

They carry an obligation to enlighten their customers. Without this enlightenment, it becomes too easy for a customer to weigh two bottles in their hands and deem the heavier one as more superior and, consequently, worth the price — they don’t know any better.

So, retailers need to construct a strategy or formulate a plan that educates customers about bottle weight and the environmental benefits of opting for lighter bottles — without it, that’s quite a load to leave to producers. We, producers, don’t possess the same magnitude of scope to educate customers as retailers do in their stores.

Moreover, the wider trade community will need education and investment will be required for advertising and PR to aid in disseminating this message. Dr. Liz Thach has conducted research indicating that consumers are not informed about the carbon issues related to bottle weight, and they don’t particularly worry about it — their main concern is the quality of the wine.

This initiative has the potential to backfire. Suppose only the larger retailers adopt it, but don’t run any impactful promotional initiatives. It could then lead to smaller retailers or eateries to distinguish themselves by retaining the weightier, higher-end looking bottles. This could resonate with customers who aren’t aware of the specifics of bottle weight, leading to a regression. Hence, meticulous planning and thought should be given to ensure the success of this initiative.

Amen to Len Foxwell’s recent letter in The Baltimore Sun supporting the sale of beer and wine in Maryland grocery stores (“Let Maryland groceries sell beer and wine — finally,” Feb. 22).

As he suggests, the only possible reason for the current bans is political lobbying and corruption.

— Jeff Schumer, Towson

Add your voice: Respond to this piece or other Sun content by submitting your own letter.

Bruce Falck had always aspired to emulate his father, the owner of a construction company in Johannesburg, South Africa, with his intention of constructing a house particularly for his family.

“My father, a civil engineer, built the two houses I spent my childhood in,” said Falck, 52, an ex-Twitter executive presently working on a startup. “For me, making a home was always a father’s duty to his family.”

Almost getting there in 2011, Falck and his spouse, Lauren Weitzman, who is 41 and works at Google, purchased a house in San Francisco. They brought on the architectural company Studio Vara to execute a complete renovation. However, on the brink of the construction starting in 2013, the pair had a re-think.

“Children were on the cards,” stated Falck. Suddenly, the thought of enduring a long-term construction project while their family life was in flux didn’t appear as manageable, particularly to Weitzman. (They now are parents to three kids, aged between 4 and 8.) So, they opted to sell their house and acquire one that was prepared for immediate occupancy.

“Bruce was really bummed,” said Christopher Roach, a partner at Studio Vara. “But he said, ‘I promise you, in a few years we’re going to look for some land up in wine country, and we’re going to do a project together.’”

About five years later, in 2018, Roach received a two-word text message from Falck: “It’s time.”

With their architect’s help, the couple began searching for a lot in Healdsburg, in Sonoma County, and found a 15-acre hilltop site with views in all directions. “It felt like the African bush,” said Falck. The couple bought the lot for about $1.5 million in July 2018, before they had even fully explored the land.

Just before closing, Roach camped on the site overnight to study the property further, thinking about where best to situate a house. “I like to see where the sun rises and sets,” he said, “and where the breezes come from in the morning versus the afternoon.”

As the architect surveyed the land, he identified that it was even more promising than initially regarded.

“The topography descends on one side towards a natural creek circled by towering

redwoods,” he shared, the other half is a mixture of oak and pine trees. He continued, “I captured the scene

through photographs, jotted down my impressions, and sketched out the preliminary

design concept. Interestingly, one of the earliest sketches formed the foundational layout

for the building.”

The initial idea was to craft a unique, boomerang-shaped residence at the peak of the plot

along the precipice. The design concept matured into a massive 6,200-square-foot dwelling

comprising 4,000 square feet of indoor living spaces almost entirely surrounded by glass

under a wide roof, providing an additional 2,200 square feet of alfresco living areas.

When the glass doors are pulled wide open, it presents an illusion of an opulent open hut.

“The temperature can get extremely warm,” commented Falck. “However, the house is basically a colossal canopy.”

Drawn by the charm of classic Southern-style wraparound porches, Weitzman found a similar allure in a modern variant.

Resembling a boomerang, the house has two distinct wings adjoined by a contemporarily-designed breezeway. This breezeway facilitates the flow of fresh air through the folding and pivoting glass doors. Geared towards the sunrise and the majestic view of Mount Saint Helena, one of the wings harbors the bedrooms. The other wing, which nestles the kitchen, dining, and living rooms, is oriented towards the captivating sunset.

Fashioning an extended living space, the roof stretches over an outdoor room that features a brise soleil. This outdoor room further connects to other open-air spaces such as the pool deck and the alfresco kitchen and dining area.

The coherence of the house with sustainability and resilience is noteworthy. Fire-resistant attributes like the standing-seam zinc cladding and circumambient walking paths, acting as firebreaks, bolster the house’s safety. In the event of power outages, the house remains independent due to the solar panel powered battery backups. It is also equipped with its unique well and septic system. The construction spearheaded by Fairweather Associates spanned over 2½ years, with COVID-19 and wildfires posing significant hurdles. With an approximate cost of $1,250 per square foot, the project wrapped up in June 2022.

“We watch the sunset, we’re in the pool, we’re in the hot tub, and Bruce is always grilling,” Weitzman said.

It’s exactly the kind of once-in-a-lifetime home Falck had in mind.

“This is a long-term thing,” he said. “For me, success would be having our kids, when they’re in their 80s, having a glass of wine on that patio and watching their grandkids swimming the pool. That’s the metric for success.”

McKeough is a freelance writer. This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

New Mexico ranks among the country’s oldest regions for wine production. The arrival of Spanish colonists close to 400 years ago marked the beginning as they introduced European vines, planting them in the fertile land of the Rio Grande Valley.

New Mexico is renowned for its long history of wine production, a tradition that began almost 400 years ago with the arrival of Spanish settlers. They brought along European grapevines and planted them in the rich soil of the Rio Grande Valley.

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The wine production history in New Mexico goes back to about 400 years ago with the arrival of Spanish colonists. They imported vines from Europe and cultivated them in the nutrient-rich soil of the Rio Grande Valley.

When the pioneers from Spain touched down in New Mexico approximately four centuries ago, they introduced European grapevines and implanted them within the nourishing terrain of the Rio Grande Valley.

Well-known for directing its attention to budding explorers, Explora is changing its course this evening. It invites mature audiences to add more to their knowledge base and immerse themselves in the captivating subject of wine science.

“The intention behind this is simply to put on display the distinctive character of New Mexico,” Kena Boeckner, the chief orchestrator of Explora’s Science of Wine event, commented. “The wine production procedure holds so many secrets that most of us aren’t aware of.”

Four local visionaries in winemaking—D.H. Lescombes, Vara, Noisy Water, and Sheehan Winery—are claiming the spotlight at the Science of Wine occasion. Sean Sheehan, an Albuquerque local with a U.N.M degree in both biology and chemistry, underscores the significance of decoding wine to render it more accessible.

Sheehan elaborates, “People often assume that our job involves constantly tasting and analyzing wine. However, the reality is that most of our time is spent conducting lab tests and doing physical work.”

This evening, Sheehan and his fellow winemakers are going to give us a glimpse into the intricacies of their work. This includes testing for acidity, a crucial determinant of a wine’s lifespan and overall quality.

“The level of acidity in the wine gives us an idea of how long the wine will last and how well it will age. Ideally, we aim for numbers below 3.5,” explains Sheehan.

At the event, you will even learn how to measure a wine’s sweetness or dryness without having to taste it, by using a device called a density meter. Through such events, wineries all over the state are making wine more enjoyable, approachable and engaging for everyone.

If you can’t attend tonight’s event, Sheehan recommends checking out your local wineries.

“You get the opportunity to pick their brain and talk to them about any questions you might have about the science of wine,” Sheehan said.

The event kicks off tonight at 7, with a few tickets still available but selling fast. Interested attendees can find the ticket link in the As Seen on 7 section of our website.