Wine 1121

California’s wine industry is making progress in reducing excess supply, but falling consumer demand continues to complicate its recovery. At a wine-industry symposium in Napa, producers and analysts said the sector may need to become smaller—and offer consumers new reasons to buy wine—rather than simply make more.

Jeff O’Neill, founder and CEO of Marin County-based O’Neill Vintners & Distillers, said wineries had expanded in expectation of annual sales growth of 4% to 5%, but that growth never arrived. He estimates wine demand has dropped 18% over the past five years.

“We cannot cost-cut our way back to growth. We have to give consumers a reason to value what we do,” O’Neill said.

The discussion echoed Silicon Valley Bank’s industry outlook, which anticipated a difficult bottom for U.S. wine demand in 2027 and 2028, followed by modest growth.

Supply is shrinking, but surplus remains

Audra Cooper of Turrentine Brokerage said vineyard removals are helping bring supply closer to demand. Her team expects another eight to 12 months of work to clear older excess wine from the market.

California had 439,115 acres of vineyards as of Aug. 1, according to the latest LandIQ tally. Nearly 47,229 acres—about 10%—were removed in the preceding 12 months, up from 38,000 acres in the previous period.

In the North Coast, more than 8,000 acres were removed, nearly 6% of the region’s total. Napa County lost 2,944 acres, Sonoma County 3,523, Lake County 667 and Mendocino County 811.

Cooper estimated California’s 2026 grape crush at about 2.3 million tons. The 2025 crush was 2.62 million tons statewide, down just over 8% from 2024. She cautioned that the El Niño weather cycle could modestly increase the 2027 crop.

Excess bulk wine remains a challenge. Turrentine had about 25 million gallons listed for sale, compared with roughly 20 million a year earlier. Listings had declined from a 2026 peak of around 33 million gallons, but buyers showed little interest in wine from the 2024 vintage or earlier.

“I’d love to say that we’re in a position where we see full market recovery, and that’s just simply not the case at the moment,” Cooper said.

O’Neill estimated California wineries have 30% to 35% more capacity than needed. A smaller crush this year could produce less wine than the market is buying, he said, but wineries still have older inventories to sell.

Industry analyst Jon Moramarco estimated California wineries held nearly 888 million gallons at the end of 2025—equivalent to 22.1 months of shipments, compared with a historical average of 18.5 months. His model suggested inventories could return to that average by the end of 2028 if annual crushes average about 2.3 million tons from 2026 through 2028 and shipments continue to decline.

Signs of growth in specific categories

Beverage alcohol consultant Danny Brager said sales are stabilizing, though below year-earlier levels. Data he presented showed direct-to-consumer wine volume fell 8.8% in the 12 months through September, while revenue dropped 1%. Wines priced at $100 or more per bottle bucked the trend, gaining 1.3% in volume and 9.3% in revenue.

Smaller formats also performed better. U.S. retail wine sales in packages under 750 milliliters rose 7.2% in dollars in the 52 weeks ended Oct. 3, while sales of larger packages fell 4.6%.

Kaleigh Theriault of NIQ said declines were driven mainly by fewer purchasing occasions, rather than a steep drop in the number of buyers. Younger adults still drink, she said, but are more intentional about alcohol. Wineries should balance price and quality, offer relevant experiences and give existing customers reasons to return.

Rethinking wine’s appeal

O’Neill urged wineries to move beyond rigid serving rules and tasting-room jargon that can make wine feel complicated.

“Heritage is important, but it alone is not a business strategy,” he said.

He pointed to sustainability and transparency, including ingredient labeling, as ways to build consumer trust. The roughly 125 growers supplying his company, representing about 15,000 vineyard acres, are certified sustainable. O’Neill said regenerative farming can cost more initially but may improve yields over time, and encouraged growers to try it on a small plot.

Wine also competes with other beverages for consumers’ attention, he said. Recovery will require more than cutting costs or increasing production.

“If we’re going to get ourselves out of this mess, we aren’t going to do it by simply making more wine,” O’Neill said.

A recent glass of Chianti brought back memories of the rise of “Super Tuscan” wines—blends that challenged Italy’s strict winemaking rules and helped reshape the region’s wine industry.

The movement began before the term itself took hold. In Bolgheri, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted Cabernet Sauvignon at Tenuta San Guido and made Sassicaia for his own cellar. Meanwhile, producer Piero Antinori objected to Chianti regulations that restricted the use of international grape varieties and required white grapes in Sangiovese blends.

Antinori defied those rules with the 1971 release of Tignanello. Officials classified it as ordinary table wine, but international critics praised it, helping spark wider interest in unconventional Tuscan blends. By the 1980s, wines such as Ornellaia and Masseto had joined Sassicaia and Tignanello among the region’s most sought-after labels.

Regulations eventually caught up with the changing styles. Tuscany introduced the IGT designation in 1992, giving winemakers more freedom to use international grapes. The Bolgheri DOC followed in 1994, permitting Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Sassicaia later received its own DOC, the only single-estate appellation in Italy.

The original wines remain expensive, but they opened the door for many more affordable blends. Their quality varies, and the phrase “Super Tuscan” was never an official wine category—it began as a catchy description and later became a marketing term. Today, the once-rebellious style has become part of the Tuscan landscape, even as producers continue to take pride in native grapes.

Several producers offer less costly wines alongside their famous bottlings. Antinori’s Santa Cristina Rosso sells for about $15, while Ornellaia’s Le Volte dell’Ornellaia is around $30 and features Merlot. Guado al Tasso’s Il Bruciato blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Petrolo’s Sangiovese-led Il Torrione costs about $35.

Other recommendations include Frescobaldi’s Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico Riserva, a Sangiovese and Merlot blend priced at about $25. Avignonesi’s Grifi IGT, made with Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, is around $33. Its unblended Desiderio IGT Merlot costs about $57, while the winery’s 50&50 IGT—a collaboration with Capannelle—combines equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot.

Côtes du Rhône

The Côtes du Rhône region in southern France stretches along the Rhône River from Montélimar to Arles. Its red wines are typically based on Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, and many offer good value at prices in the teens or low $20s. They are generally ready to drink when purchased; serving them slightly chilled can bring out their fruit.

Three recent tastings included:

• Maison du Midi Côtes du Rhône Vieilles Vignes 2024 ($15): An 80% Grenache blend with Syrah and Mourvèdre, showing strawberry and cherry with soft tannins.
• Olivier Ravoire Côtes du Rhône Banderet 2025 ($15): A Grenache-Syrah blend aged in concrete, with cherry and berry flavors in a somewhat bolder style.
• Gabriel Meffre Saint-Mapalis Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône Villages 2024 ($15–$19): The darkest and fullest of the three, with plum, berry and black-pepper notes. It should age well for three to five years.

Wine picks

• Miguel Torres Andica Rosé 2025 ($15): An organic Chilean blend of Pinot Noir and Mourvèdre, with bright red-fruit flavors, fresh acidity and a touch of residual sugar.
• Bricoleur Kick Ranch Vineyard Viognier 2025 ($45): From Sonoma County’s Fountain Grove District, this Viognier offers stone-fruit and honeysuckle aromas, melon, peach and mango flavors, and a crisp, mineral finish.
• Vietti Barbera d’Alba Vigna Scarrone 2023 ($55): A structured single-vineyard Barbera with black cherry, plum, tobacco and anise notes. It pairs well with beef and could benefit from up to a decade of cellaring.

Come Over October, a campaign encouraging people to connect over wine, has ended after three years. The initiative was created by Come Together: A Community for Wine and generated 3.8 billion media impressions, 7.5 million social media interactions, and participation in more than 2,000 retail stores, reaching an estimated 14 million U.S. consumers.

Launched in 2024, the campaign offered the wine industry free promotional materials and a platform to present wine as a way to bring people together. Hundreds of wineries, distributors, retailers, trade groups and media organizations took part. More than 200 wineries joined Come Over October and its sister initiative, Share & Pair Sundays. Major retailers including Kroger, Total Wine & More and Albertsons also participated.

The campaigns were funded through contributions from the wine industry, including donations as small as $500. The organizers said they are ending because funding has run out, but campaign materials may remain available to the industry at the founders’ discretion.

The founders said they hope the invitation to gather and share wine will continue beyond October and the holiday season. Learn more about the campaigns through the original announcement.

A former wine buyer who has sampled more than 100 grocery-store wines says Aldi offers plenty of good bottles at affordable prices. Her picks stand out for their flavor, drinkability and value, with most costing less than $10. Prices and availability may vary by location.

1. Bear Bros Cabernet Sauvignon — $8.69
   Made with California grapes, this full-bodied red has notes of blackberry, currant and plum. It won bronze at the Sommeliers Choice Awards and earned an 88-point score from Wine Enthusiast.

2. Specially Selected Pinot Noir — $11.99
   A seasonal holiday release, this store-brand Pinot Noir is praised for its fruity, lively flavor. It may be a good choice for holiday meals or as a hostess gift.

3. Sunshine Bay Sauvignon Blanc — $7.99
   This New Zealand white is crisp and citrusy, with tropical notes of passion fruit and guava. Its bright, refreshing character makes it an easygoing warm-weather pick.

4. Specially Selected Côtes de Provence Rosé — $9.99
   From Provence, a well-known rosé region, this wine is crisp and dry, with more body than many rosés. Its fruity flavor is reminiscent of ripe strawberries and makes it well suited to picnics.

5. Outlander Meritage — $7.79
   A blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon, this bold red offers clove, berry and vanilla notes. Its cozy, fruit-forward character makes it an appealing choice for a night in. “Meritage” refers to a blend of grape varieties.

6. Specially Selected Prosecco Superiore DOCG — $10.99
   From Valdobbiadene in Italy, this Prosecco has fine bubbles and flavors of almond, cherry and lightly yeasty brioche. Serve it on its own or use it for a spritz or mimosa.

7. Intermingle Red Blend — $6.99
   A blend of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, this approachable red has soft tannins and a hint of fruity jamminess. It pairs well with pizza, barbecue and cheese boards.

8. Landshut Riesling — $6.99
   This medium-sweet Riesling balances honeysuckle sweetness with refreshing acidity. Its light, lively style may appeal to both sweet- and dry-wine fans.

9. Elementalist Pinot Grigio — $7.99
   Floral peach tea gives way to chilled melon and green apple. It’s a refreshing option for a day at the beach or other casual summer gatherings.

10. Grande Alberone Rosso Red Wine — $9.99
    Made with Primitivo, Merlot and Teroldego, this Italian red blend has concentrated fruit, earthy notes and a chocolate-covered-cherry richness. Its easy-drinking style offers a budget-friendly take on the depth associated with Amarone.

Costco’s Kirkland Signature Malbec is made by Broquel Winery, a wine label from Argentina’s Trapiche Winery. The bottle’s back label also names Trapiche chief winemaker Sergio Casé, who has held the role since 2000.

The grapes grow in Mendoza, a major Malbec-producing region near the Andes, at elevations of about 2,800 to 3,300 feet. The wine is aged for a year in French oak barrels before being bottled under the Kirkland Signature label.

The resulting red is described as full-bodied, with ripe plum and cherry notes, a smooth finish, and hints of cocoa, oak, and spice. Despite its Mendoza origins and oak aging, it remains inexpensive: a 750-milliliter bottle typically costs around $8 at Costco. Broquel Malbec sold at liquor stores is reported to run roughly $15 to $20.

Costco shoppers have praised the wine online for its flavor and value; some say they buy it by the case. Commenters have also suggested using it for cooking, following the principle that it’s best to cook with wine you’d be happy to drink.

The Food & Wine Classic in Charleston will bring together chefs, sommeliers, winemakers, and beverage experts for tastings and seminars. Four wine professionals shared the bottles they’re especially eager to pour and explore at the event, from Champagne and Burgundy to Grenache, Riesling, and Chardonnay.

June Rodil’s picks

Master Sommelier June Rodil is looking forward to wines with compelling histories and distinctive winemaking stories.

• NV Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Iteration Nº27 Champagne: Made from the 2015, 2013, and 2012 vintages, this new release continues the house’s effort to blend wines toward an ideal expression. Rodil is curious to see how it balances depth with freshness, and how it compares with the previous release.
• NV Domaine Les Monts Fournois Côte Avize Grand Cru de Luxe Champagne: This 100% Chardonnay comes from two grand cru parcels in Avize. Rodil describes notes of mandarin, orange zest, and pastry, followed by a taut, chalky finish. She’s also excited to share the work of winemaker Juliette Alips, whose thoughtful approach made a strong impression on her.
• 2022 Frescobaldi Castello Nipozzano Montesodi Chianti Rùfina Riserva: Made from Sangiovese grown in a stony, schist-rich vineyard around 400 meters above sea level, this wine reflects the Frescobaldi family’s long history in winemaking. The estate’s first cru, Montesodi combines structure and a sense of place with elegance and energy.

Femi Oyediran’s picks

Advanced Sommelier Femi Oyediran plans to spotlight the range of styles and character that Grenache can offer.

• 2024 Yalumba The Tri-Centenary Barossa Valley Grenache: This single-vineyard wine comes from a two-acre Barossa Valley block planted in 1889.
• 2024 Pax Wines Castelli-Knight Ranch Russian River Valley Grenache: Sourced from a steep western slope grafted to Grenache in 2003, the vineyard was originally planted to Pinot Noir. The wine had not been bottled on its own for 11 vintages.

Oyediran hopes the tasting will inspire attendees to discover the grape’s different expressions—and perhaps become Grenache enthusiasts.

Ray Isle’s picks

Food & Wine executive wine editor Ray Isle has a Burgundy-and-pimento-cheese pairing in mind, along with a Pinot Noir to feature in a lively chefs-versus-sommeliers competition.

• 2023 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes: Isle describes this old-vine red Burgundy as both seductive and powerful. At his Low Country/High Living seminar, he’ll put it to the test with pimento cheese on a cracker.
• 2023 Hirsch Vineyards San Andreas Fault Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir: This Pinot Noir will be one of the options in the event’s Chefs vs. Somms pairing challenge. Isle believes the team that chooses it may have an advantage.

Andy Chabot’s picks

Andy Chabot, a food-and-beverage leader at Blackberry Farm and Blackberry Mountain, will explore how wines pair with different dipping sauces.

• 2023 Kühling-Gillot Nackenheim 1G Rheinhessen Riesling: Made by a husband-and-wife team, this dry German Riesling is among Chabot’s choices for demonstrating wine’s versatility at the table.
• 2023 Domaine de la Janasse Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Grenache is the dominant grape in this Rhône wine. Chabot says it works well with a broad range of flavors, making it a promising match for the seminar’s chicken bites and sauces.
• 2023 Peay Vineyards Maritima Estate West Sonoma Coast Chardonnay: Chabot hopes to show how this Chardonnay can pair with many different flavors, while highlighting the work of the small West Sonoma Coast winery.

The wines reflect the Classic’s wide-ranging program: bottles chosen not only for their quality, but also for the stories, places, and pairing possibilities behind them. The Food & Wine Classic in Charleston will feature them across tastings and seminars.

Marvin Shanken, who died on October 29 at age 83, transformed how Americans encounter wine. He took Wine Spectator from a small California newsletter and turned it into a glossy magazine that reached millions of readers and helped make wine a part of everyday culture.

Shanken also launched or reshaped publications such as Cigar Aficionado and Whisky Advocate. But Wine Spectator had the greatest impact on its field. While wine critics helped popularize numerical ratings, the magazine paired scores and tasting notes with long-form stories about wine regions, wineries, and the people behind the bottles. It became the first American magazine devoted entirely to wine and the lifestyle around it.

For many writers, the magazine was also a career-launching platform. One pair of contributors landed an eight-page cover story about Rioja, Spain, in 2008. They never met Shanken, but accounts from former and current staff suggested he remained closely involved in the publication’s work. The story’s reach became clear when a friend later pulled a folded copy from her handbag and said she was planning a trip to Rioja based on its recommendations.

Shanken’s influence extended beyond the magazine’s pages. Wine Spectator helped set a standard for wine journalism, inspiring other publications and expanding public interest in the stories behind what people drink. Its annual New York Wine Experience has brought together hundreds of winemakers and winery owners, giving guests a chance to taste notable wines and meet the people who make them. Events like it helped popularize large-scale wine tastings around the country and contributed to the rise of the “superstar winemaker.”

Winemakers remembered Shanken as someone who championed both wine and the people who produce it. Vintner Jean-Charles Boisset said Shanken gave wine a voice by celebrating its dreamers and pioneers. Winemaker Adam Lee praised his commitment to print, noting that Shanken continued to create magazines filled with photography and stories that could introduce readers to interests they hadn’t yet discovered.

For the writers whose careers began at Wine Spectator, Shanken’s legacy is a world of wine drinkers curious about more than what is in the glass. The next time you open a bottle—whether it’s an old favorite or a new discovery—his influence is worth remembering.

Bevineau Inc. has expanded Ponder Wine, a platform designed to help wine enthusiasts find vineyards, wineries and wine-producing regions around the world.

The platform brings vineyard and winery locations together in an interactive database, pairing geographic exploration with information to help visitors plan trips and identify less-busy times to go. Bevineau says its goal is to include properties that may be overlooked by traditional searches, including places with little online presence.

To build its growing database, the company uses publicly available information and geographic data to identify and organize viticulture-related locations. The approach was shaped in part by the discovery of a vineyard that had almost no conventional digital footprint. Research into the property revealed circumstances that affected its ability to operate like a traditional winery.

Ponder Wine’s updated interface is designed to give users a broad view of vineyard landscapes while providing details about individual locations. Bevineau says it is aiming to make the platform straightforward for both casual travelers planning a weekend away and wine enthusiasts seeking lesser-known producers and destinations.

The company plans to continue expanding Ponder Wine over the next six to 12 months, with the broader ambition of developing tools for people across the viticulture industry—not only consumers planning winery visits.

Learn more about Ponder Wine or read the original press release.

A wine’s deep red color may create high expectations, but it doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll enjoy the taste more. A Cornell-led study found that appearance influenced what people expected from a wine far more than how much they liked it after tasting.

Published in the American Journal of Enology and Viticulture, the study asked 82 regular red-wine drinkers to assess eight unidentified wines: three Pinot Noirs and five made from hybrid grape varieties. Participants first rated each wine’s color and how much they expected to enjoy it, then tasted the wines and rated their actual enjoyment.

Some hybrid wines looked as appealing to participants as Pinot Noirs from Burgundy, Oregon, and New York’s Finger Lakes. Lighter wines, including some with yellow or brown tones, generally received lower appearance ratings and prompted lower expectations. Yet color was only a weak indicator of how much participants ultimately liked a wine.

The results may reassure growers making wines from interspecific hybrid grapes—crosses between species in the Vitis genus. Varieties such as Marquette and Maréchal Foch can produce lighter-colored wines, which some producers worry consumers will reject based on appearance alone.

Hybrid grapes may also help vineyards respond to climate change. Depending on the variety, they can offer greater cold hardiness, resistance to certain fungal diseases, or tolerance for heat and drought—useful traits as growing conditions become more difficult for traditional varieties such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot.

Wine director Nicole Sullivan says lighter-colored reds can surprise restaurant guests. She finds that explaining a wine’s producer and style often helps guests move past their initial expectations. A little context, the study suggests, may be enough to encourage drinkers to judge a red by its taste rather than its shade.

Read the Cornell study announcement.

Wine glasses can influence how a wine smells and tastes. A well-chosen glass gives aromas room to gather, lets the wine meet your palate properly, and can help preserve its temperature. The goal isn’t to buy the most expensive set—it’s to choose a shape and material that suit the occasion.

Five wine-glass mistakes to avoid

1. Choosing a glass that’s too small

Wine needs room to breathe and release its aromas. Pour about 4 to 5 ounces, leaving the wine roughly one-third of the way up the bowl. That leaves space to swirl without spilling and allows aromas to collect.

2. Using stemless glasses for every occasion

Stemmed glasses help keep wine at its intended temperature by keeping your hand away from the bowl. Stemless glasses still work well for casual gatherings, outdoor events, and situations where sturdiness or storage space matters. They can also help warm wine that has been chilled too much.

3. Serving sparkling wine only in a flute

Flutes show off bubbles, but their narrow shape can mute sparkling wine’s aromas and complexity. For a more expressive pour, try a tulip-shaped sparkling-wine glass, a white-wine glass, or a coupe. Flutes remain a good choice for celebratory toasts.

4. Buying a large, specialized set

Most people don’t need a different glass for every kind of wine. A medium-sized, stemmed glass is a practical all-purpose choice. If you want to add more options, consider a larger bowl for full-bodied reds and a tulip-shaped glass for aromatic whites and sparkling wines.

5. Overlooking the glass’s material and thickness

A thin rim generally allows wine to flow more smoothly. Crystal offers clarity and elegance, though it can be delicate and may need hand washing. Regular glass is usually more affordable and durable, while plastic or acrylic is best reserved for casual outdoor occasions.

Ultimately, the right glass can help a wine show more of its character—without requiring you to spend more on the bottle.