Pécharmant – The Best Alternative to Bordeaux Wine

Southern California’s only wine train is making a comeback this fall, departing from the Pacific Southwest Railway Museum in Campo. The Backcountry Wine Train has two scheduled runs on October 4 at noon and 3 p.m., offering a scenic 90-minute journey through the picturesque highlands of eastern San Diego County on a restored vintage train.

During the trip, riders will enjoy a specially curated six-glass tasting flight of wines sourced from local Southern California wineries, complemented by individual charcuterie plates and macaroons from a San Diego bakery. For those who prefer not to partake in alcohol, an alternative six-glass tasting flight of handcrafted nonalcoholic beverages will be available. However, all passengers must be at least 21 years old to board.

The ticket prices reflect the luxurious experience aboard the train, with three different tiers available. The premium class is priced at $100 per person, providing access to a restored 1920s train car. The first-class option costs $150 per person, which includes two or four-person tables, an extra glass of sparkling wine or nonalcoholic cider, and access to the train’s open-air platform. The VIP tier, which grants access to the Robert Peary presidential Pullman car, is available at $250 per person, requiring the booking of the entire car for up to eight guests. This exclusive tier also features personalized tableside service by sommelier Lisa Redwine.

The Robert Peary car has an impressive past, having been used by President Franklin D. Roosevelt 34 times between 1934 and 1936 and has hosted numerous Hollywood stars and corporate executives. Now preserved by the Pacific Southwest Railway Museum Association, it is available for private charters and special events.

The train tracks themselves boast historical significance, established between 1907 and 1919 by John D. Spreckels, designed to create a direct rail link to the east. This line, known as "The Impossible Railroad," included the construction of 21 tunnels and significant trestle bridges.

The entire operation is run by the Pacific Southwest Railway Museum Association, established in 1961 and staffed by volunteers who maintain the trains and offer excursions. The museum houses an extensive collection of historical railroad equipment and works to preserve the history of train travel.

San Diego County’s wine industry is flourishing, home to 172 active wineries growing 43 grape varieties. The region’s American Viticultural Areas such as San Pasqual Valley AVA and Ramona Valley AVA enhance the credibility and marketability of local wines.

The Backcountry Wine Train is one of the limited seasonal offerings scheduled by the museum, kicking off on October 4, followed by events like the Pumpkin Express and the North Pole Limited, making it a unique addition to fall festivities in San Diego. Riders are encouraged to plan ahead and check for accessibility options concerning the trains.

The Odyssey Wine Academy, renowned for being Sonoma County’s first in-person Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) certification school, has officially merged with the Commonwealth Wine School, a Massachusetts-based institution specializing in wine, spirits, sake, and beer education. Founded in 2022 by Julie Rothberg, the academy has quickly become a destination for wine enthusiasts and aspiring professionals, offering WSET’s recognized certification programs across four levels of increasing complexity.

Rothberg emphasized that the merger was partly motivated by a desire to balance work and family life. She intends to focus on enhancing marketing efforts and expanding course offerings as she remains actively involved with the academy. Previously hosted at Bacchus Landing in Healdsburg, Odyssey’s classes will now transition to "The Friend" room at Maison Wine Bar near the Healdsburg Plaza starting this fall.

Maison co-owner Evan Hufford, a certified sommelier and veteran instructor from the San Francisco Wine School, expressed enthusiasm about the partnership, viewing it as an opportunity to promote wine education and collaboration in a space designed for industry networking. The new venue is expected to continue offering classes, including WSET Level 1 sake courses. Enrollment is currently open for the upcoming courses slated to begin this September.

For more information, visit Odyssey Wine Academy and Commonwealth Wine School.

In its 25th year, the Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival evolved from a small gathering in a muddy field to a renowned event attracting up to 20,000 attendees annually. The festival originated at Greig Farm in Red Hook, New York, founded by Michael Babcock, who recalls the first festival in 1996 with an overwhelming amount of rain. Despite challenging weather conditions, attendees enjoyed themselves, showcasing the spirit and potential of the festival.

This year’s festival, held at the Dutchess County Fairgrounds, boasts a lineup that includes 42 wineries, 29 distilleries, several cideries, 24 craft beers, and 64 gourmet food producers. Over the years, the festival has transitioned from its initial struggles with weather into a lively celebration of New York’s culinary landscape, transforming it into the state’s largest gathering of wineries on that weekend.

Inspired by Babcock’s visits to food and wine festivals in Aspen, Colorado, the Hudson Valley’s inaugural gathering aimed to connect local producers with consumers. Initial years were financially tough, but the support led to a partnership with the fairgrounds, providing necessary infrastructure that significantly upgraded the festival experience.

The festival has become known for its culinary demonstration stage, emphasizing the connection between food and wine through live cooking shows by regional chefs. Notable figures, such as Marcus Guiliano and Hudson Valley’s Ric Orlando, have participated, teaching techniques using locally sourced ingredients.

Babcock notes the festival’s role in boosting local agriculture, granting access to Southern Tier markets for Finger Lakes wineries that previously lacked distribution avenues. The collaboration has fostered a thriving agritourism economy in Dutchess County, celebrating the evolution of local vineyards, which now produce award-winning wines.

As the festival’s audience expands, it retains an intimate connection with its roots. Attendees who’ve been coming for decades now bring their families, creating a shared legacy that highlights the festival’s community-centered mission. Babcock emphasizes that the event is about more than just food and wine; it’s about fostering connections and celebrating local culture.

For more information on the Hudson Valley Wine & Food Festival, visit hudsonvalleywinefest.com.

We were intrigued yet skeptical when tasting a 1969 cabernet sauvignon—the 1969 Robert Mondavi, to be precise. Historically, wines from that era have been lackluster, surviving more as relics than memorable experiences. However, this particular bottle proved to be an exception. It was vibrant and astonishingly well-preserved, exuding elegance reminiscent of fine Burgundies, enriched with dried red fruits. While the tannins had mellowed over time, the wine still showcased impressive acidity and structure, much like an aging architectural masterpiece.

As we savored the wine, our minds wandered back to the late 1960s Napa Valley. At that time, the number of established wineries was limited to a few, including Beaulieu Vineyards, Louis Martini, and Beringer. The emergence of iconic producers such as Robert Mondavi and his contemporaries would soon elevate Napa’s status in the wine world. In 1969, Mondavi had already begun to carve out his legacy after a split from Charles Krug, purchasing land in To Kalon and establishing a winery in Oakville.

Backed by talented hands like Warren Winiarski, who would later establish Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Mike Grgich, the 1969 cabernet marked the start of Mondavi’s mission to create high-quality wines akin to renowned Bordeaux.

Though Mondavi passed away in 2008, we spoke to Kurtis Ogasawara, the winery’s current director of winemaking, who has not tasted the 1969 vintage but is familiar with the evolution of wines since then. He noted that the alcohol content of the 1969 cabernet stands at 12%, a stark contrast to today’s offerings, which average between 14.5% and 15%. Various factors, including climate change and advancements in vineyard management, play a role in this change.

Ogasawara explained how winemakers in that era had a different approach; the picking process was more reliant on vineyard teams than on precise timing by winemakers, as is standard now. He pointed out that while the 1969 cabernet included fruit from To Kalon, it also sourced grapes from several Napa vineyards, reflecting a broader winemaking philosophy of that time.

Robert Mondavi was notable for introducing French oak barrels to the Napa Valley scene, elevating the production methodology from standard American oak, and producing wines that were likely unfined and unfiltered, a novel approach at the time.

Reflecting on his predecessors, Ogasawara admitted the weight of their legacy could be daunting but expressed his focus on continuous improvement without becoming paralyzed by comparison.

As we concluded our tasting, we pondered the future of wines today, wondering if the bold and fruit-forward styles of modern vintages would age as gracefully as Mondavi’s wines. Ogasawara remained optimistic, citing confident future outcomes based on the promising attributes of his own wines.

For those interested in experiencing Robert Mondavi’s more recent offerings, some notable selections include:

• Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($55): A juicy blend showcasing red fruit flavors.
• Robert Mondavi Winery The Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($105): Rich, complex with plum, black cherry, and mint notes.
• Robert Mondavi Winery The Estates Red Blend 2022 ($95): Balanced and structured, it encompasses all five noble Bordeaux grape varieties.
• Robert Mondavi Winery The Estates Fume Blanc Napa Valley 2023 ($65): This unique blend includes semillon, adding layers of dimension.