Wine 632

Seaswept is a new Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio wine blend that boasts an 11.5 percent ABV.

Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio seem like two varietals that should have always hooked up and gotten together.

And now, they have, in Seaswept, an exciting new wine blend from Josh Cellars.

“We felt there was an opportunity to refresh the rules of wine by creating a crisp and easy-sipping wine,” says Wayne Donaldson, global head of production, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, which owns Josh Cellars. “That’s why we decided to utilize California’s lightest white varietals, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.”

The two wine varietals complement each other beautifully, according to Donaldson. The Sauvignon Blanc contributes a crisp minerality and vibrant citrus aromatics, while the Pinot Grigio adds a softer, even cooling sensation. When blended together, they produce a light-bodied, refreshing wine that’s an ideal accompaniment to a summer daytime gathering with friends.”

The laid-back vibe is precisely what Josh Cellars aims to achieve with Seaswept. “This wine could sit well with other lively beverages that have gained popularity among the younger generation,” Donaldson explains. “We saw a chance to rewrite the wine rules by creating a crisp, smooth-sipping wine that can match other high-energy, social drinks that are currently in vogue.”

The grapes are all procured from the cooler regions of the Sacramento delta. “The cool nights and afternoon breezes provided perfect growing conditions, paired with access to varying soil types such as sand, clay, loam, granite, volcanic ash, seabed soil, and river-run gravel,” Donaldson elaborates.

Seaswept is particularly targeted at the younger demographic, adds Dan Kleinman, Chief Brand Officer at Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.

Josh Cellars carried out an exclusive Occasions Framework Study, involving over 25,000 participants, reveals an interesting revelation about the drinking preferences of the younger generation. The study suggests a stark difference in the energy and mood associated with their drinking activities.

Addressing this, Kleiman states, “If we plan on capturing the attention of Gen Z drinkers, particularly during their ‘hanging out’ moments, we must present alternatives that are both lively and enjoyable.” On the contrary, wine has always been considered formal and not at all reflecting these attributes, in the perspective of these young consumers.

Seems like Josh Cellars has a strategic plan to combat this perception. Kleiman informs that by banking on their approachable nature and innovative spirit, they aim to bring forth an experience through Seaswept that mirrors the simplicity and joy of beach day. This positions their new low-alcohol wine as an outdoor beverage of choice during warm seasons, closely aligning it with the likes of seltzer, RTD, or beer.

Kleiman expects this venture to broaden their customer base with younger wine aficionados, primarily since this wine actually resonates with the high-energy events typical of this generation.

“For example, Seaswept is presented in a way that resonates more with other beverage alcohol categories that emphasize refreshment, like spending the day at the beach or hanging out with friends in the afternoon,” says Kleiman.

Because Seaswept is “the ideal festival drink,” Josh Cellars is launching an extensive experiential tour at popular music festivals across the country. “This will keep pace and engage our target audience at their comfort zones,” says Kleiman.

Old grape vine in Rioja, Spain

The tiny, precious hands of the little girl were shaking as she clung to the trunk of a young Tempranillo grape vine. Her grandmother guided the dirt into the hole, securing the new vine’s place in their family’s lineage. The process, a time-honored tradition shared from grandmother to granddaughter, was both a journey through the past and an investment in the future. The girl appreciated the strength and gentleness in her grandmother’s weathered hands, a testament to years of laboring in the vineyard and nurturing her family. She aspired to inherit these superhero-like attributes, epitomized by her amazing grandmother.

Old vine in black and white

In 1882, the wine region of Rioja, Spain, witnessed a sudden rise in wine sales due to an unfortunate circumstance. The vineyards in France were severely affected by a crop pest, phylloxera, which led the French producers to turn to the Spanish wines of Rioja. Taking advantage of this situation, the families of Rioja increased the production of their beloved native Tempranillo red grape variety. The grandmother narrated these exciting times to her little granddaughter, sharing stories of their ancestors’ hard work finally gaining recognition. She also instilled hope of a brighter, prosperous future that wouldn’t be just a mere dream, but her granddaughter’s reality.

By the year 1893, the pest phylloxera had reached Rioja, attacking and feeding on the roots of the cherished Tempranillo grape vines. This had a dire impact, stunting the growth and killing some of the vines. With this devastating event, the hope for the region nosedived. A young lady of 18 years was left to herself as the lone guardian of their small vineyard following the death of her grandmother from immense stress. Faced with the likelihood of having the vineyard replaced with grain plantations by her parents, she pleaded to no avail for the preservation of a cherished vine she’d planted with her grandmother, her only vivid memory of time spent with her. A local young man, who’d shown interest in her for years, stepped in during this crisis to console her, eventually asking her to marry him and move to Madrid for a shot at better opportunities. Overcome by grief and disappointment, she accepted his proposal and went to Madrid, dousing the hope of ever returning home.

In the meantime, a man by the name of Ramón Bilbao from Etxebarri, a small town located around 60 miles north of Haro, the major town in Rioja, made the move to Haro to set up his own business. Risky as it was owing to the previous devastation from phylloxera, he decided to open a grain warehouse as well planting vines in the year 1914.

Entry into Ramón Bilbao estate

Following the death of Ramón in 1929, five years after the establishment of the winery Bodega Ramón Bilbao, his ambition was fulfilled by Enrique, his son. Enrique successfully continued his father’s legacy, turning Bodega Ramón Bilbao into a successful wine producer in Rioja which celebrated its 100th anniversary. The winery not only owned its vineyards, but also worked hand in hand with multiple-generation grape cultivators in the area to broaden their grape source base to a wide range of small plots. Notable among these are their 80 to over 90 year old Tempranillo grape vine plots. Their wine, Mirto, stands as the perfect showcase of this beautiful collaboration.

Harvesting the grape bunches by hand

The first vintage of Mirto was in 1999, when the technical and general director, Rodolfo Bastida, joined Bodega Ramón Bilbao. He had been walking through the vineyards with a local grower in the sub-region of Rioja Alta, discussing the 1999 vintage, and the grower said to him, “Año de mirto año de vino,” which translates into English, “year of myrtle, year of wine.” Then he pointed to all the myrtle plants growing on the edge of the plot. It is a local expression that means thriving myrtle plants are an excellent sign for the vines and when the myrtle is great, the wine will be great. So Rodolfo decided to make a 100% Tempranillo wine sourced from multiple old vine plots and call it Mirto and the 1999 Mirto was a lovely wine out of the gates and after many years of cellaring, still impresses.

Mirto is just one of the projects that Rodolfo is spearheading as Ramón Bilbao founded a winery in 2019 called Lalomba (translating to hill), which is devoted to the exploration of a single vineyard estate called Lalinde which is located on a hill in the most eastern sub-region named Rioja Oriental. A section of the vineyard makes an ultra-premium rosé wine that is a field blend of the local red Garnacha grape and the white Viura grape made from vines that are almost half a century old. It makes a concentrated rosé wine with lots of freshness and minerality that improves with age.

Rodolfo Bastida

Rodolfo, a Rioja native, stands as the third generation in his family to follow the path of winemaking. He feels a sense of completion in spending the greater part of his time in the vineyards, reminiscent of the 1800s when local winemakers resided amongst their vineyards. With the advent of professional wineries, a shift occurred. His grandfather, who like many others, spent his days in labs, wearing a white coat, rigorously testing samples to ensure the marketability of the wines. His father split his time between the lab and the vineyards, marking a resurgence of appreciation for winemaking as a symbiosis between tradition and technology.

The narrative shifts back a century, to a young woman who parted with her roots in Rioja during the late 1800s in pursuit of her destiny. By 1938, she was already a grandmother, a widow amidst the throes of the Spanish Civil War, left alone to fend for her daughter and granddaughter. In a desperate plea for help and connection, she seeks to journey back to her roots, sending word to her estranged parents through a friend headed to Rioja.

Returning to her childhood home, she is greeted by her parents who have revived their connection with the land, replanting their vineyards. Their actions speak volumes, as they take her through their emotions and day-to-day lives without exchanging a single word. The poignant moment arrives when the mother invites her daughter and granddaughter to plant grapevine saplings with her, welcoming them back into the cradle of family tradition without a word of reproach. On this day, forgiveness goes unsought.

The connective threads of these narratives weave through the vineyards that Rodolfo Bastida treads daily, shaping the wines he crafts for Bodega Ramón Bilbao. They are tales that commemorate the generations who came before him while driving his mission to honor their stories.

Lineup of Ramón Bilbao Mirto wines

Lalomba by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba rosé wine by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: A blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura from the single vineyard estate named Lalinde. A stunning rosé with a pale pink color with highlights of copper with grapefruit and lemon zest aromas with creamy lemon meringue and candied violet flavors on the palate with bright acidity and intense minerality.

2022 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: This unique rosé is a blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura. It hails from Lalinde, a vineyard estate perched on the slopes of Yerga mountain range. The wine dazzles with its smoky minerality, an aromatic bouquet reminiscent of wildflowers, and delicious flavors of mixed berries and juicy, white peaches. It leaves a refreshing aftertaste, hinting at the sensation of wet river stones.

Mirto by Ramón Bilbao

1999 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: This complex wine is made entirely of Tempranillo. It is sourced from vineyards around the village of Villalba, near the town of Haro. These vines are approximately 70 years old. The nose is multi-layered, featuring smoldering cigar, fresh tobacco leaf, a touch of bacon fat, and broken earth. Your palate is greeted with rich blackberry flavors entwined with exotic spice, all smoothed out by very fine tannins.

2006 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: This variant also 100% Tempranillo and drawn from the same vineyards around Villalba village, only this time, the vines are closer to 80 years of age. The nose is delighted by beautiful fruit aromas tinged with hints of licorice and fresh herbs. The palate succumbs to the fleshy flavors of black cherry fruit coupled with a broad body.

2010 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Ábalos, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. It comes from plots in the village of Ábalos near the town of Haro with old vines around 80 years old. Wafting notes of espresso and cocoa nibs entice with its delicious aromas, plush texture, generous fruit flavors, and complex cigar boxes and tar notes.

2016 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Cuzcurrita, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. From plots in the village of Cuzcurrita near the town of Haro with old vines over 90 years old. An enchanting bouquet of violets on the nose with delectable blueberry tart flavors on the palate with very silky tannins that are finely sculpted and has a long, flavorful finish.

Old grape vine in Rioja, Spain

The tiny, precious hands of the little girl were shaking as she held on to the trunk of a baby Tempranillo grape vine while her grandmother pushed dirt into the hole where the young vine was being held so they could plant this vine together, as for many generations, it has been passed on from grandmother to granddaughter. The little girl was always in awe of her grandmother’s beautiful hands, which were strong yet gentle, depending on whether she was laboring in the vineyards or stroking her granddaughter’s hair. She hoped that one day she could have such hands, the hands of a superhero, as there was no one else as amazing as her grandma.

Old vine in black and white

In 1882, the wine region of Rioja, Spain, enjoyed a boom in wine sales as French producers were buying the wines of Rioja to help supplement their own demand, as many of their vineyards had been destroyed by the pest, phylloxera. So, the multi-generational grape growers in Rioja planted more vines of their cherished native Tempranillo red grape variety. It was a very exciting time; the grandmother told her precious little grandchild that the incredible vineyards of their people were finally receiving the glory they deserved and that her granddaughter would have a much better life that would be unimaginable, even to her grandmother.

By 1893, phylloxera had made its way down to Rioja a few years earlier and this pest started to feed on the roots of locals’ beloved Tempranillo grape vines, where it would either kill or stunt the growth of some of the vines. It seemed that the hope for the region had plummeted overnight and the grandmother passed away from the intense stress, leaving her 18-year-old granddaughter alone as the sole guardian trying to protect their small plots of vines as her parents wanted to rip out the vines so they could plant grain instead. With tears running down her face, she begged her mother not to pull out the one vine she had planted with her grandmother but in the end, it was torn out of the ground, destroying the most precious memory she had of her childhood with her hero. A local young man who had been courting this 18-year-old lady for years saw his opportunity to comfort her. He asked her to marry him and to move to Madrid for better opportunities. Overwhelmed with grief and the great disappointment of her parents killing something so precious, she went to Madrid with this young man. She married him, feeling at that moment that she would never return home again.

During this time, a man named Ramón Bilbao from a small town called Etxebarri in northern Spain, around 60 miles north of Haro—the main town of Rioja—moved to Haro to start his own business. He opened a grain warehouse as well as planted vines in 1914, which was a gamble considering that something else, like the devastation of phylloxera, could happen again in the vineyards.

Entry into Ramón Bilbao estate

Unfortunately, in 1929, five years after the winery, Bodega Ramón Bilbao, opened, Ramón passed away, leaving his son Enrique to fulfill his dream, which he did with Bodega Ramón Bilbao becoming a very successful wine producer in Rioja, celebrating their 100th anniversary this year. Not only do they own their own vineyards but they have had a long-term partnership with multi-generational grape growers in the area to expand their sourcing of grapes from a wide range of small plots that include Tempranillo grape vines that are 80 to over 90 years old. No other wine showcases that beautiful partnership as does their wine, Mirto.

Harvesting the grape bunches by hand

The first vintage of Mirto was in 1999, when the technical and general director, Rodolfo Bastida, joined Bodega Ramón Bilbao. He had been walking through the vineyards with a local grower in the sub-region of Rioja Alta, discussing the 1999 vintage, and the grower said to him, “Año de mirto año de vino,” which translates into English, “year of myrtle, year of wine.” Then he pointed to all the myrtle plants growing on the edge of the plot. It is a local expression that means thriving myrtle plants are an excellent sign for the vines and when the myrtle is great, the wine will be great. So Rodolfo decided to make a 100% Tempranillo wine sourced from multiple old vine plots and call it Mirto and the 1999 Mirto was a lovely wine out of the gates and after many years of cellaring, still impresses.

Mirto is just one of the projects that Rodolfo is spearheading as Ramón Bilbao founded a winery in 2019 called Lalomba (translating to hill), which is devoted to the exploration of a single vineyard estate called Lalinde which is located on a hill in the most eastern sub-region named Rioja Oriental. A section of the vineyard makes an ultra-premium rosé wine that is a field blend of the local red Garnacha grape and the white Viura grape made from vines that are almost half a century old. It makes a concentrated rosé wine with lots of freshness and minerality that improves with age.

Rodolfo Bastida

Rodolfo, a Rioja native and winemaking heir, spends most of his time in the vineyards, reminiscent of the old-world winemakers in the 1800s. As the region industrialized winemaking, his grandfather spent his days in the lab ensuring the viability of their product. His father balanced these worlds, spending time both in the lab and vineyards. Today, Rodolfo works among Rioja’s rich history, personally tending to the ancient vines that are their prized possession.

Years after a young woman left Rioja in the late 1800s, she finally wrote a letter home through a friend, announcing her intention to visit with her daughter and granddaughter. By 1938, death and war had left them alone, and they were returning to their roots. At the family vineyard in Rioja, her parents had begun replanting.

The stoic greeting from her mother was a stark reminder of the years she’d lost. Wordlessly, she followed her mother out to the waiting vineyard, her daughter and granddaughter trailing behind. As her mother dug a hole for a new vine, the silence was thick. But as the earth was pushed back in around the vine, each generation of women adding to the effort, the past was left behind. The gesture was more potent in its silence, with no need for stated forgiveness.

This notion of honoring a lineage, contemplating the history rooted in the vineyards, guides Rodolfo in his winemaking for Bodega Ramón Bilbao. He carries their stories in every walk through the vineyard, crafting wines that pay homage to his heritage.

Lineup of Ramón Bilbao Mirto wines

Lalomba by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba rosé wine by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: A blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura from the single vineyard estate named Lalinde. A stunning rosé with a pale pink color with highlights of copper with grapefruit and lemon zest aromas with creamy lemon meringue and candied violet flavors on the palate with bright acidity and intense minerality.

2022 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: A blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura from the single vineyard estate named Lalinde situated on a hillside on the Yerga mountain range. This fascinating rosé has smoky mineral characteristics and a bouquet of wildflowers on the nose accompanied by delicious mixed berries and juicy white peaches, ending with a refreshing finish with undertones of damp river stones.

Mirto by Ramón Bilbao

1999 Ramón Bilbao Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. Originating from plots in the village of Villalba close to the town of Haro with matured vines around 70 years old. The nose presents multiple facets with smoldering cigar, fresh tobacco leaf, a hint of bacon fat and splintered earth, rich in blackberry flavors intermingled with exotic spice, and very fine tannins that gently swipe the palate.

2006 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. Sourced from plots in the village of Villalba close to the town of Haro with matured vines around 80 years old. The nose boasts splendid fruit aromas with whiffs of licorice and fresh herbs, it flaunts fleshy black cherry fruit flavors within a broad body.

2010 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Ábalos, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. It originates from plots in the village of Ábalos close to the town of Haro with ancient vines approximately 80 years old. The tantalizing notes of espresso and cocoa nibs lure in with its delightful aromas, opulent texture, ample fruit flavors, and intricate cigar boxes and tar notes.

2016 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Cuzcurrita, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. It comes from plots in the village of Cuzcurrita near the town of Haro with old vines over 90 years old. A captivating bouquet of violets on the nose with delicious blueberry tart flavors on the palate accompanied by very silky tannins that are neatly sculpted and offers a long, tasty finish.

The allure of zero-proof bubbles lie in their collectability and aging potential, akin to vintage Champagne.

As an enthusiast of wine, discovering novel cuvees and tasting unique brews intrigue me. But there are days when my bodily systems crave a respite. However, quite a few non-alcoholic beverages fail to cater to my taste buds, relegating me to settle for sips of tea, or even plain water.

A similar vacuum was observed by Maggie Frerejean-Taittinger. Having spent a significant part of her professional life leading the international endeavors of the Michelin Guide and visiting global foodie hotspots, she found the choices wanting during her pregnancy. She found her glass often unfulfilled, as the non-alcoholic options failed to match up to the stellar courses she savored.

“From the perspective of someone who is fond of wines, adores Champagne – fortunate because my spouse happens to be a vintner – and savors the fine art of pairing, it felt as if my experience was falling short,” shares Maggie.

So in 2019, she collaborated with her spouse, winemaker Rodolphe Frerejean-Taittinger, and Constance Jablonski to introduce a sophisticated, Champagne-like drink: French Bloom. The fizzing wine brand’s Le Blanc and French Bloom Le Rosé – all non-alcoholic, captivated enthusiasts by providing the effervescence and precision of French fizzing wine while staying firmly in the non-alcoholic arena (all bottles have 0.0% ABV).

The French house has now introduced its latest product: a vintage-dated non-alcoholic sparkling wine.

La Cuvee encapsulates the character of a vintage Champagne in a non-alcoholic form.

La Cuvée Vintage Blanc de Blanc 2022 (available for $119 or €109) is masterfully created to complement gastronomy, drawing inspiration from well-matured Champagnes and wines from Jura—wines that feature complexity and particular flavor design.

Want a high-quality non-alcoholic wine? Consult Frerejean-Taittinger, the brains behind Chef de Cave at Frerejean Frères, an independent Champagne House. He is a pro at maturing Champagnes for up to a decade, and also runs Coutanseaux Aîné in Cognac.

However, aging a non-alcoholic sparkling wine poses a challenge. French Bloom, therefore, has to replicate aging through sourcing and the process. Their La Cuvée was created using Chardonnay from a few vineyards in Languedoc, which according to Rodolphe, is the capital of natural wine.

He further explains that they need to maximize their still wines to an extreme level for the flavors and nuances to outlast the dealcoholization process. This procedure removes the alcohol and dampens the flavors and aromas of the wine.

“We had to develop a wine that had a high alcohol content, even a couple of weeks before harvesting,” he notes. “Our challenge was also with acidity since we couldn’t rely on Champagne’s cool climate. We achieved the needed acidity by harvesting earlier and re-acidifying the wine through classic methods like acid tartrate. We’ve remained natural all the way—every product is 100% organic and lacks sulphites and preservatives.”

The zero-proof sparkling wine is full of golden bubbles.

Using low-temperature vacuum distillation, the brand conducts three rounds to carefully and gradually take away the alcohol content from the wine until it reaches 0.0% alcohol. The complete absence of alcohol is a significant aspect, enabling pregnant women or people aiming for sobriety to enjoy without any worry.

Interestingly, a large portion of the brand’s core customers are not abstainers, but are discerning consumers enjoying a temporary pause whether for an evening or a lunch. As Rodolphe emphasizes, “80% of our customers are flexi-drinkers: they drink wine, they drink Champagne, and sometimes they don’t drink at all—they just moderate, When you drink fine wine, the alcohol content is secondary—it’s about the flavor.”

The resulting blanc de blanc presents a mature and rich flavor profile, boasting robust aromas and layers of flavor rarely found in zero-proof wines. It has a honey-like color, with a fresh rhubarb tang and appealing hints of umami and dried apricot, contributing to its profound complexity. Only 17,000 bottles will be available.

At present, the main offerings of French Bloom are served on high-end airlines such as La Compagnie and can be found in 32 countries. Their wines are also enjoyed at Michelin-starred eating establishments like Jungsik in New York and Cheval Blanc in Paris, as well as at renowned culinary venues like the Ritz in Paris, The Carlyle, and the Beverly Hills Hotel. They also feature at events such as Coachella. Their efforts are well-received within the wine sector too, with Jean-François Moueix of Petrus being an early investor in the company.

Over the past decade or so, natural wine bars have proliferated around the Bay Area, clustered mainly Oakland and San Francisco but slowly spreading to other communities in the region. Here are three wine bars to try that have opened within the past year in San Jose, San Anselmo and El Cerrito.

So what is natural wine? “The best way to think about naturalness in wine is as an ideal: wine made from grapes with nothing added and nothing removed,” says Aaron Ayscough in The World of Natural Wine: What it is, Who Makes It, and Why it Matters (Artisan, 2022). There are levels of “naturalness,” of course, but generally speaking, these wines have some or all of these characteristics: They’re produced from organically-farmed grapes, fermented in native yeasts, contain no or very low levels of sulfites or other additives, and have not been fined or filtered.

Here’s where to taste them:

As it nears its first anniversary, Steven and Ann Huynh’s wine bar is all about inclusion and accessibility. Steven’s Asian American upbringing didn’t include much exposure to wine or to the etiquette and knowledge expectations he says often accompany a traditional wine tasting.

“Natural wine, for me, breaks down those barriers,” he says. “It doesn’t really have a barrier to entry – you don’t need to know anything about grapes or wine varietals. (You can) have a fun experience, where you can learn if you want or just drink a good product and enjoy your time out.”

They even have a Goodtime Bar Run Club, so you can get your exercise in first.

What to try: Made with organic viognier grapes, the 2021 Les Parcelles Pétillantes Bouteillou from France’s Les Chemins de Bassac is sparkling and refreshing. Pair it with the arancini ($14), made with Japanese curry, kimchi mayonnaise and fontina cheese and topped with nasturtium leaves.

Details: Opens at 4 p.m. Monday and Wednesday-Friday and 2 p.m. weekends at 30 Fountain Alley #160 in San Jose; goodtimebarsj.com.

The atmosphere is electric and the fireplace cheerily lit at a wine and low-ABV cocktail bar this fine Saturday evening. This bar, which opened in December, is known for its specialty in natural wines and sophisticated food to complement them.

This lovely spot, nestled within the town’s legendary Cheda Building (dating back to 1911), features wall-to-wall windows. In 1914, the structure was transformed into San Anselmo’s first movie theater, and over the years, it hosted a variety of businesses, including drugstores, a lounge, and an office. Today, it has transformed once again and is known as Voyage Bar, adorned with elegant reclaimed Douglas fir, redwood accents, and vintage lighting fixtures.

What to try: Although the menu is subject to rotation, the roasted root veggies dish ($15) is a delectable dish to share. A lively debate may ensue among your group over the difference between Romesco and Romanesco, as both are present in the dish. (Note: Romesco refers to a Spanish style tomato-based sauce while Romanesco is a cruciferous vegetable with a distinct geometric appearance.) A chilled red wine like the refreshingly unique blend of zinfandel and carignan from Glassmaker, produced in Mendocino, is recommended. Alternatively, the COS “Nero di Lupo”, a light and smooth biodynamic red from Sicily, is worth a try.

Details: Voyage Bar is open daily from 5 to 10 p.m., except on Tuesdays. It is located at 500 San Anselmo Ave. in San Anselmo. More information can be found at voyagebar.com.

Banter impresses with its modern, yet retro vibe. Launched a year back by Claire Sullivan and Devin Hohler, the facade might fool you into thinking it’s just another store. However, once you cross the threshold, you are treated to a spectacular throwback to the ’80s – complete with old-age music posters, daring wall coverings, and a communal assortment of VHS cassettes and vinyl disks. Not to miss, the back room sports an old-school, coin-operated pinball machine.

The bar’s offerings include a changing array of natural wines. You might want to try their flight of three half-glasses that comes for $22 – a value-for-money way to experience several flavors. Their menu is a concise collection of petite servings, featuring meats, cheese, hummus, and anchovies coming at a reasonable price of $14.

Must-try: Give the Oest Wines “Ruckus” a shot – it’s a light bubbly red. The Guignier Beaujolais Villages Gamay from France is an exquisite bouquet of fruitiness and fragrance. For the adventurous, they’ve got an eccentric orange Artana Rkatsiteli from Georgia, meant for the unflinching who don’t mind terms like “vegetal” and “funky”. Just in for a quick bite? Combine it with a slice of Acme’s “hella wet” levain bread for $5, served with salted butter from Straus.

The Basics: Banter is open from 4 to 9 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, located at 10368 San Pablo Ave., El Cerrito; banterwine.com.

Today—March 18th—marks the debut of Le Carénage, a California-based wine project spearheaded by award-winning MLB pitcher, Marcus Stroman. After making his Major League debut and taking MLB by storm back in 2014, Marcus quickly fell down the wine rabbit hole thanks to his generous veteran teammates who would regularly bring captivating bottles of wine into the clubhouse to share. This season Stroman joins the New York Yankees for the first of a two year contract, signed in January 2024.

Le Carénage’s inaugural wines include a Provence-inspired rosé, a refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, and a classic Knight’s Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Click here to acquire Le Carénage inaugural release wines by joining the mailing list

Courtesy of La Carénage

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Le Carénage Rosé is inspired by the great pink-hued wines of Provence. Crafted from a blend of 51% Cinsault and 49% Mourvèdre, fruit for this refreshing, acid-forward wine hails from responsibly-farmed vineyards planted in Lodi. At just 12.9% ABV, the wine’s light-on-its-feet nature makes it ideal for sipping all day long. 490 cases were produced.

Le Carénage Sauvignon Blanc hails primarily from Napa County, with a hint of Sémillon thrown in for good measure. At 12.1% ABV, the wine is easily enjoyable with or without food, though its pronounced acidity is undoubtedly a perfect match for freshly shucked oysters and pungent goat cheeses. 120 cases were produced.

The Le Carénage Knight’s Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is the first of three single-vineyard Cabernet bottlings to be released, and shows the best of what Sonoma County has to offer. Packing all the dark-fruited and cassis notes, while staying light, nimble and ready to enjoy with minimal aging. At 12.9% ABV, this wine represents a balanced, fresh and classic Cabernet that harkens back to how wine was made in Napa and Sonoma back in the heyday heralded vintages of the ‘70s and ‘80s. 580 cases were produced.

Future plans will bring two additional Cabernet Sauvignons to the line-up: the two single-vineyard Napa Cabernets will serve as the project’s higher-end Reserve bottlings, produced from Glass Rock Vineyard in the Coombsville AVA and a prestigious site in the heart of Oakville.

Matt Naumann, owner of Newfound Wines and previously the winemaker for Wade Cellars, is the proud hands behind the bottles at Le Carénage. Naumann’s winemaking philosophy is rooted in working with the best vineyards possible and allowing the fruit to speak for itself.

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Marcus is a native of New York who didn’t discover his love for wine until later in life. He went to Duke University and was selected by the Toronto Blue Jays in the 2012 draft. Marcus began his professional career in 2014 and since then has played in both New York for the Mets and Chicago for the Cubs. This season he will be returning to his hometown, having signed a multi-year contract with the New York Yankees. He discovered his passion for wine after sharing many bottles with his fellow teammates, falling in love not just with the drink itself, but also the camaraderie and joy it brought to their gatherings.

Marcus started making regular visits to wine regions from his Florida offseason base in 2015, frequently jetting off to the West Coast. His appreciation for Napa Cabernet evolved into a love for the great wines from Old World locations like Bordeaux, Barolo, and Tuscany. As his passion for wine grew, Marcus set out on a mission to make wine more down-to-earth and easy to access, all without reducing the quality in any way.

A special thank you to Marcus for taking the time from his jam-packed Spring Training schedule to record video responses to my interview questions.

Wine Society describes planned alcohol duty changes as ‘ludicrous, expensive and probably unworkable’

British consumers have been told that the price of some of their favourite red wines could increase by more than 40p next year after the government ignored pleas from the wine industry to abandon complex post-Brexit tax changes.

The chief executive of Majestic Wine, John Colley, said the new alcohol duty system, which comes into effect in February 2025, would increase the number of tax bands for wine from one to 30, and cost businesses huge sums of money to administer.

The chief executive of the Wine Society, Steve Finlan, said the plan was “ludicrous, expensive and probably unworkable”.

The post-Brexit overhaul of alcohol taxation, which would tax drinks on alcohol by volume (ABV) rather than the type of alcohol, was officially initiated last August proposed by the Treasury during Rishi Sunak’s time as chancellor. According to this scheme, the amount of duty increases by 2p for every 0.1% increase in alcohol content.

The government recognized the new administrative load for businesses and implemented an 18-month “easement” period. Throughout this time, all wines between 11.5% and 14.5% would be taxed £2.67, which is the duty rate for 12.5% ABV.

The wine industry has been urging the government to make these easement rules permanent. However, earlier this month, Gareth Davies, the exchequer secretary to the Treasury, confirmed that the policy would proceed as planned.

Businesses like Majestic Wine, which operates more than 200 stores nationwide, have voiced their concerns, stating that this change would result in higher prices and an immense administrative burden for sellers.

“The minister demonstrated in this debate a worrying lack of understanding of our sector, suggesting that the alcohol duty system has become simpler and easier since Brexit,” said Colley. “That is simply not the case. In fact, the system in place pre-Brexit was much simpler to administer.”

Analysis by the Wine and Spirits Trade Association (WSTA) has found that when easement ends prices on about 43% of wines will increase. The tax on a bottle of wine with an ABV of 14.5%, the highest percentage to come under the rules, will increase by the maximum 42p to £3.09.

Red wines will be most affected given their higher alcohol content, with prices on 75% expected to rise from next February.

The changes will lead to huge administrative costs for businesses, which will have to work out the tax due on each wine. Even small shops can sell hundreds of different wines.

The co-founder of Cambridge Wine Merchants, Hal Wilson, explained that new regulations are set to enforce the inspection and documentation of the alcohol content in roughly 90% of their purchased bottles. Wilson expressed concerns over the seven-fold increase in workforce tasks, hinting at the unfeasibility of such a proposition for their trade.

Representing the Wine Society, Finlan elucidated concerns for the establishment that houses myriad wine varieties. He assessed the new alterations as nearly impossible to implement, resulting in inevitable price surges that will affect the consumer.

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At a Westminster Hall debate brought by the former health minister Will Quince last week, some Brexit-backing MPs, including Priti Patel and Julian Sturdy, supported the industry’s calls for a continuation of the status quo.

The latest changes come after wine sellers were hit with a 20% rise in excise duty on 85% of wines last year, the highest rise in 50 years.

The chief executive of the WSTA, Miles Beale, said: “Cutting red tape should surely be a priority for the Tories, who often cite it as a ‘Brexit benefit’.

“We are not asking for further reform, we are merely calling on the government to retain the existing, simplified procedure for taxing wine to avoid what is going to be a very costly mistake.”

A Treasury spokesperson said: “We engaged closely with the wine industry throughout the consultation for historical reforms to alcohol duty. The industry has benefitted from freezes at six out of the last 12 fiscal events.”

The changes will also result in the sparkling wine premium being removed, so that sellers pay the same amount of duty on them as still wines of the same ABV. The duty on many lower-strength drinks, such as beer, has been cut.

Shrinking demand for alcoholic beverages has led to an oversupply of wine.

In response, some vineyard operators in Australia, California, and France are eliminating large sections of their vineyards.

A South Australian grower, Tony Townsend, recently informed Bloomberg that he’s dismantling his 34-acre vineyard despite years of vine maintenance.

“While I loved being a part of the wine industry, continuing in this state just wasn’t financially feasible,” he explained to the news source. Despite his crops being healthy, the harvest expense would have been $23,000.

Townsend’s not alone. Reuters reported tens of millions of vines will be ripped out in Australia to address the excess supply. As of last year, the amount of extra wine in storage in Australia was equal to two years of production, the outlet said, with some going bad before it could be sold.

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“It feels like an era is ending,” vineyard owner Andrew Calabria of Calabria Wines in Australia told Reuters, adding: “It’s hard for growers to look out the back window and see a pile of dirt instead of vines that have been there as long as they’ve known.”

Excess supply is also impacting winemakers in Europe and the US.

Last year, the French government, known for its efforts to protect its traditional culinary products, declared that it would invest $216 million in discarding excess wine to help the struggling industry. Rather than being ingested, this wine would be transformed into industrial alcohol for items like perfume, hand sanitizer, and cleaning solutions.

France is also financing initiatives by growers in Bordeaux to remove about 10% of their vines.

The San Francisco Chronicle reported that some growers in California are demolishing their vineyards, with some choosing to cultivate other crops as an alternative.

One of the factors contributing to the overproduction is merely a shift in demand: People don’t drink the way they used to.

Wine consumption rose in the ’90s when many believed it to be associated with good health, but as Americans have drunk less and less alcohol over the past decade, production has exceeded demand, the Chronicle reported.

“People in this business took it for granted that there was always going to be growth,” Jeff Bitter, president of Allied Grape Growers in California, told the outlet.

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Ahead of a road construction project, archaeologists explored a site in northern China.

Between June and November, a team of experts worked to excavate the site — and they discovered the ruins of an ancient wine-making workshop.

Archaeologists found three stoves, seven wells and two fermentation ponds, according to a March 6 news release from the Shanxi Provincial Institute of Archaeology shared via a post on Weibo. The structures were used to make wine and liquor during the Ming Dynasty, which lasted from 1368 until 1644.

The stoves were arranged in a line, experts said. One well-preserved example included an operating pit, a fire chamber and a grate.

The fire chamber was of an elliptical shape, constructed using blue bricks. Its dimensions were roughly 3 feet in length, 1.5 feet in width, and 4 feet in depth.

Adjacent to this was a round well, which was utilized for gathering water for the cleansing of materials used in winemaking, as per archaeologists. The well was approximately 4 feet wide, with a maximum depth of 23 feet. It contained remnants of porcelain tiles and structural components.

Additionally, sherds from vibrant, patterned porcelain bowls and cups hailing from the Ming and Qing dynasties were discovered within both the stoves and wells, state authorities.

In proximity to the stove, experts also unearthed a tank used for fermenting. This rectangular structure measured roughly 10 feet long, 8 feet wide and stood at a depth of 2 feet.

Soil samples from inside the pit-like tank contained high levels of protein and acid residues connected to wine fermentation, archaeologists said.

Historical records from the Ming dynasty indicate that the process of making wine and liquor required the structures found at the site, officials said.

Google Translate and Baidu Translate were used to translate a news release from the Shanxi Provincial Institute of Archaeology.

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An Allegany County village has seen a recent upswing in business openings, and a new wine and liquor store is poised to keep the momentum going.

Family-owned Triple Brew Liquor and Wine will begin welcoming customers Saturday at 37 Main St. in Canaseraga.

What’s believed to be Canaseraga’s first-ever wine and spirits store will be at least the third new business to take up residence on the village’s Main Street in the past 12 months.

Dollar General opened a Canaseraga store at 4 Main St. in August and the popular Canaseraga Soup and Coffee Co. recently celebrated its one-year anniversary at 64 Main.

The name “Triple Brew” comes from the owners, husband and wife Shawn and Edna Brewster and the third “Brew,” their daughter, Secquoia.

Community Bank N.A. closed its Canaseraga branch at 37 Main St. in 2021 and the Brewsters bought the building in December 2022.

At first they were not sure what type of business to pursue but eventually settled on a wine and liquor store, seeing it as both practical and new.

“The nearest liquor store is more than 10 miles away. We have a lot of people who don’t care to travel that distance and we think it will bring that convenience to it,” said Edna Brewster, who is also the mayor of Canaseraga.

“We wanted to bring to our community some change. We want to focus on bringing wine, plus all your other staples with a liquor store,” Shawn Brewster added.

The project included converting a bank building, with a vintage safe and all, into a retail space, and finalizing licensing. Now everything is in place to go, with the shelves filled.

The Brewsters have generational ties to the community. Shawn Brewster is a village trustee and Edna Brewster is not the first member of her family to be Canaseraga mayor. Her great-grandfather Don Scott was the mayor 100 years ago, in 1924.

“It’s an amazing feeling to contribute to our community and be part of the growth of Canaseraga,” Shawn Brewster said.

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The store will be open Monday through Friday from noon to 8 p.m. and from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Saturdays.

The Brewsters long-range vision includes hosting tastings and other wine centered events, noting the ample space for vendors and guests alike in the former bank.

The Triple Brew Liquor and Wine phone number is 607-545-0007 and the store’s Facebook page includes additional information, including a veterans discount and more about the grand opening.

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This article originally appeared on The Evening Tribune: New wine and spirits store opens March 16 in former Canaseraga bank