Wine 1004

How many times have you skipped opening a great wine because you knew you weren’t going to finish the bottle? Coravin truly allows you to enjoy your wine on your terms: The Coravin wine preservation system lets you pour a glass of wine without pulling the cork; the displaced wine is replaced with neutral argon gas so that each glass tastes as good as the first. Use it once and you will wonder how you have gone this far without owning the ultimate wine lover’s tool. The Timeless Six’s brand new, limited edition muted grey color with silver accents is a fashionable addition to any dining table or wine cellar—even better is that right now you can get it for 40 percent off.

If all you want is a taste, a single glass, or one each for you and a friend, insert the needle through the foil and cork, gently pull the trigger, and pour away. Wine comes out while tasteless, odorless argon goes in, and the bottle remains sealed until you’re ready for your next pour, with no time limitations. And if, like us, you find yourself drinking some high-end wines with screwcaps rather than corks, this version has you covered with six Timeless Standard Screwcaps. Here you’ll replace the bottle’s original cap, insert the needle through the self-sealing silicone diaphragm, pour a glass, and keep the bottle for up to three months.

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Other accessories included with the Timeless Six are three argon capsules, textured fabric carry case, needle clearing tool, an aerator to bring out the best in your wine, and a bottle sleeve that will ensure that even the most fragile bottle remains intact when pressurized with argon. The Coravin Timeless Aerator attaches to the system spout and breaks the wine stream into 32 separate streams that turn into droplets, accelerating the aeration process as you pour, offering the equivalent of an hour or more of decanting. Trusted by wine pros the world over, Coravin lets you pour a glass or two from a bottle at the moment you feel like drinking it rather than waiting for a special occasion. With the Coravin Timeless Six+ you can turn any moment into that special occasion simply by savoring an exceptional glass of wine.

$209 $349 40% off

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Plus, everything to know to avoid this happening to you

How you store wine matters — especially when that wine costs more than the average home in the United States.

As any avid collector will tell you, the last thing you want is to entrust a facility to keep your prized wines fresh, only to have them ghost you in the middle of the night, which is precisely what happened to clients of the New York City-based Chelsea Wine Storage.

Chelsea Wine Storage is currently being investigated by the New York State Liquor Authority following accusations of mismanagement of clients’ wine collections. The accusations include theft and unauthorized sales of bottles, including a set of highly valued Burgundy wines worth approximately $300,000 according to a report by The Post. Chelsea Wine Storage, which had been situated in New York’s Meatpacking district for over two decades, relocated its facility to the basement of a former T.G.I Fridays in Times Square in the year 2022. Following this relocation and a subsequent change in leadership, the company experienced a year filled with customer grievances which has escalated in recent weeks due to clients being unable to access their wine collections.

Related: How to Tell the Difference Between a $20 and $200 Bottle of Wine

Chelsea Wine Storage has traditionally offered open storage options, charging $10 a case per month for storage in a warehouse, and a more expensive closed locker storage service providing a self-service locker in the storage unit which was constantly accessible to the client. Currently, clients are unable to access their wine collections. In light of several weeks of unreturned calls and emails inquiring about their wine, clients have even attempted to gain access to the storage facility themselves according to The Post.

The owners, Amelia and Michael Gancarz, attribute the issue to staff shortage and problems with their landlord, Delshah Capital. They faced a lawsuit from the landlord in November due to failure in timely payment of rent for the storage facilities, wine store and basement lounge. Additionally, they were brought to court by the wine broker company, Grand Cru, following a case filed on November 14. This action was taken when the couple reportedly sold Burgundy bottles worth $350,000 to Grand Cru, but the latter never received the wine. Grand Cru sued the Gancarz’s and received $165,000 from them. The couple is making efforts to repay the remaining amount including the interest.

Related: Wine Pros Share How They Store Their Favorite Bottles at Home

The Post reported that Chelsea Wine Storage assured its worried clients during the weekend that their wine was secure but provided limited details. One client was able to get his wine with assistance from his new storage company, Domaine Storage. Chelsea Wine Storage failed to respond to multiple comments sought by F&W.

The situation at Chelsea Wine Storage is a unique case. Still, it calls for introspection on the methods of wine storage. You can go ahead and read more if you are interested in learning about storage of valuable wines.

“Wine has become a legitimate alternative investment given the growth of its worldwide popularity over the past twenty years boasting an 8% compound rate of return, according to various estimates,” says Caleb Silver, editor-in-chief of Investopedia. “But, for individual collectors and investors, it’s important to note that only the most highly rated wines that have been properly stored with established provenance and pristine documentation meaningfully appreciate over time.”

When it comes to buying and selling wines at auction, quality control is vital. Wine bottles exposed to high temperatures can literally cook, damaging the flavors and ageability. Additionally, there’s rampant concern over potentially counterfeit branding thanks to wines with improper labeling, so be sure to do your homework before submitting a bid.

Your wine stored miles away might not always be top of mind. However, it’s key to at least check your investments, like you would your 401k, every now and then. For example, if you find out your wine storage company has new management or a new facility, check in on your collection to ensure  the quality control remains the same, and get any changes in writing.

“If you rent storage space from a company and the company changed ownership, you probably want to make sure the storage conditions haven’t declined or become problematic,” warns F&W executive wine editor Ray Isle, who stores his wine just outside New York City.

Like many prized possessions, the safest place to store them is within sight. If you are a collector with extra special bottles, invest the money you’d spend in an off-site facility to equip your own home with bottle aging and storing space. Store wine in a temperature-controlled wine fridge (emphasis here on wine. Your traditional refrigerator is far too cold), purchase stone wine storage tiles that naturally keep your wine chilled, or get a sturdy wine rack for your basement or closet.

Finally, perhaps it’s a good idea to reframe your thinking of what it means to invest in wine. “For most collectors and enthusiasts,” Silver says, “the best returns they will earn will be from drinking and sharing it.”

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Read the original article on Food & Wine.

Writing with wine

“In wine, there’s truth,” wrote Pliny the Elder of Greece in the first century CE. He also wrote that “The only certainty is that nothing is certain.” Both his conciseness and ambiguity are reflected in much of today’s writing about wine.

The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), a United Kingdom based charitable trust established more than two decades ago, includes an essay on their website titled, “How to become a wine writer.” In it they mention two ‘fundamental elements’ of wine writing— “…the general ability to write in a meaningful and engaging manner and a specialist’s knowledge and understanding of the subject at hand.”

Key words here are ‘engaging’ and ‘knowledge,’ because sometimes knowledge is not engaging.

Discussing wine can take two different routes – it can be based on undeniable facts (‘the wine was aged in new French oak barrels for a period of 12 months’), or it can be a product of personal perception (‘the scent of butter; pairs delightfully with salmon’). Wine analysis often integrates a mixture of concrete data and individual viewpoints.

Evaluation of red wine by a sommelier

Writing about irrefutable truths is usually a safe bet. Such details are often discovered on the official website of a wine manufacturer and should be comprehensible to anyone with a basic proficiency in viticulture. Nevertheless, merely enumerating facts may not always result in engaging prose.

Personal interpretations, on the other hand, can be a bit complex. The success or failure of the writing often hinges on these subjective components. The ultimate aim of a writer is to transmit their own sensory interpretations and emotional connections to the readers while they relish a glass of, say, Malbec.

Wine writing thoughtfully blends the objective truths and the subjective impressions, much like a film adaptation of true events that allows certain variations for the sake of captivation. The challenge lies in maintaining an engaging texture to the content without bogging the reader down with raw facts or perplexing them with over-the-top colorful depictions.

Writing with wine about wine

For instance, a recently published online review of a deep-bodied Italian red wine from Campania mentioned its appropriateness to pair with a steak. The description is plain and comprehensible—the wine lacks subtlety but makes up for it by delighting drinkers with its ability to stimulate salivation and thus, crave for wholesome food.

In another online review, a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon was described with terms like ‘lyrical’ and ‘silky’. The term ‘silky’ signifies something easy-to-drink as well as smooth and soft in texture. On the other hand, ‘lyrical’ is a more abstract term, suggestive of rhythm, possibly indicative of a harmony amongst elements like alcohol, acid, tannin, and fruit. This description, while being more poetic than literal, creates a certain allure, at the same time demands an active imagination on the part of the reader to fully grasp the concept.

A group of wine writers from the UK, US, and Ireland recently gathered in the Saint-Émilion region of Bordeaux, at Château de Ferrand, to engage in a discussion about their craft. This location was chosen due to its owners, Philippe Chandon-Moët and Pauline Bich (of BIC ballpoint pens), who have close ties with both the world of wine and the instrument widely used for writing globally.

Château de Ferrand, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France

The main points from the discussion on wine writing are summarized below.

Topic:

Unique terms that only industry insiders in the wine business comprehend.

Chris Wilson, winemaker for Gutter & Stars winery based in Cambridge, U.K., also a contributor to Decanter and Harpers Wine & Spirits, mentioned, “Industry jargon—we get it. But it may intimidate the general audience; for instance, terms like èlevage. Realizing your audience is crucial—who are you writing for?”

Subject:

Ambiguous terms that may baffle the readers, yet could also weave a layer of enigma that keeps the audience captivated.

Examples of unclear descriptors were provided by workshop attendees. Tiffany Vernon, a copywriter for Corney & Barrow, brought up the term ‘backbone,’ while Lisse Garnett, who contributes to Wine Anorak and The Spectator, pointed out ‘minerality.’

Charles Geoghegan, a senior copywriter from Berry Bros and Rudd, highlighted the issue with vague descriptors like ‘masculine’. He voiced, “Such terms prove to be unhelpful. If someone uses terminology that others can’t comprehend, it’s pointless.” However, he acknowledged that functionality isn’t everything in writing, stating, “Creating something personal is possible, but the aim should be to engage the readers.”

Tiffany Vernon’s counterargument was: “Yet, you cannot make it overly personal when you are creating content for a business.”

The Chateau de Ferrand’s landscape, located in Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux, France

Hannah Crosbie, author of the upcoming book Corker, shared an important warning: “Utilizing personal experience can either attract an individual or completely isolate them.”

Adam Lechmere, co-organizer of the meeting and a travel writer who contributes to various wine publications, further mentioned that “Employing the term ‘masculine’ demonstrates lazy writing. It’s disrespectful to both the reader and the gender.”

Subject:

Long writing compared to short writing.

One participant expressed their frustration with ‘long indulgent writing’, stating that “In modern times, asserting your ideas in a concise manner is a must. Authors like Hugh Johnson exemplify this straightforward writing style.”

A contributor to myriad renowned magazines and newspapers stated, “Much of the long-form writing is overly detailed and self-satisfying. I advise my students to follow this simple rule – If you wouldn’t say it out loud, don’t write it. I tend to overwrite, then heavily edit and reduce.”

Lisse Garnett pointed out a plain reality that many authors won’t hesitate to write longer articles if they’re paid by the word.

A classic typewriter next to a glass of wine.

Topic:

Navigating the delicate balance of subjective inputs.

A participant in our discussion voiced, “We must remember that we’re part of the entertainment industry, operating in a somewhat eccentric field. So why not give it our all?” Another contributor suggested that writing about wine “is not serious in the first place, so why not derive pleasure from it?” while another expressed their belief that writing should “Preserve the enchantment – somewhat akin to the institution of monarchy.”

Lechmere pointed out that “The enjoyment of reading a wine tasting note isn’t confined to wine enthusiasts. It’s all about the pleasure derived from reading. When we utilize just the most basic words, the narrative becomes monotonous.” He further added that “Although writing necessitates substantial effort, it’s important to not let that effort become apparent.”

Writing holds the power to illuminate the minds of readers while simultaneously educating the writer. Gerald Asher, in his 2012 publication titled A Carafe of Red, illustrated this concept:

“I experienced the profound import of wine as a binding factor for virtually everything, when I commenced my journey of writing about it. My understanding deepened with my readings, travels, and inquisitive inquiries, dragging me into the extensive dimensions of history, economics, politics, literature, food, community, and all other elements dictating our lifestyles. Wine, I realized, permeates through everything and guides us everywhere.”

My Grandma Betty was not a fan of wine.

She tolerated her husband’s occasional glass of wine at dinner — it was usually a tumbler of Pisenti poured from a screw-top gallon jug. Grandpa Lionel was not a wine snob.

Grandma Betty did not stock a wine cellar or grow wine grapes.

Perhaps part of her antipathy came from the notoriety that her grandfather achieved for wine making, not always legally.

The narrative as remembered from family gatherings indicates that Gustave Renkert was apprehended during the prohibition era for possessing a few wine bottles at his ranch in Tassajara Canyon.

The anecdote narrated was him declining a plea deal. When his trial was due, astoundingly, all the proof, which was brought to the town for preservation, had vanished mysteriously from the evidence storage.

With the lack of proof, the accusations simply dispersed.

The United States commemorated the 90th anniversary of the Prohibition repeal on Dec. 5. This recall features the prohibition that outlawed the transportation, sales, or manufacturing of alcoholic beverages.

The 21st Amendment repealed the 18th Amendment. The 18th was the only constitutional amendment in American history to be repealed and the only amendment written to remove rights rather than define or expand them.

The political and social intersections that led to Prohibition are fascinating, as well as the changes that came to society as a result.

For a deeper dive check out the book “Last Call – The Rise and Fall of Prohibition” by Daniel Okrent.

In a search via Newspapers.com, I was able to find the original story of Gustave’s arrest in the Daily Telegram.

The Telegram initially started as an anti-alcohol, Prohibition-era publication. Over time, its stance on these topics softened under new management. A noticeable bias against Germans became apparent during and post World War I. Rogue alcohol-related incidents were frequently displayed as headline news, along with an array of other reports.

The whole story was far more intricate than the one usually told at dinner conversations. Oddly enough, I’ve yet been able to locate a subsequent story that discusses the trial’s outcome.

Articles published a few years later in the same newspaper portray Gustave leading a regular life at home. It suggests that perhaps his charges were dismissed or reduced.

A brief three-paragraph report was published on January 15, 1924. This informed that Mrs. A. Pieri and Gustave Renkert faced accusations of illegal possession of alcoholic beverages after two separate raids.

The raid took place far up Tassajara Canyon, and collecting evidence was a challenge. Nevertheless, officers managed to transport it safely to San Luis Obispo.

An earlier report from Jan. 10, 1924 provided more specifics. The current revision addresses typographical errors.

In two operations in Tassajara locality near Santa Margarita, Investigator C.H. Wheeler claimed to have seized two stills (one reportedly in use), 23 barrels or nearly 1,200 gallons of wine, and a certain amount of prune brandy. Wheeler operated under the directives of District Attorney Charles R. Nelson and Deputy Sheriff Ray Evans.

Gustave Renkert faces charges for illegal possession of intoxicating liquors. Similar allegations concern George Miller, purportedly Renkert’s son-in-law. He is accused of unlawful possession of a still, illegal possession of intoxicating liquor, and illicit production of intoxicating liquor.

While scrutinizing a letter signed “Mrs. Renkert” forwarded to the district attorney hinting at a woman’s supposed bootlegging activities, Investigator Wheeler stumbled upon hints that directed him to Renkert and Miller’s farms. These two estates were reportedly connected by a frequently traversed path.

The officers surmise that this path suggests a possible collaboration between Renkert and Miller.

On Renkert’s property, an inactive still was reportedly discovered. Along with this, there were 23 barrels of wine partially stashed away in an abandoned chrome mine.

Differently at the Miller estate, Wheeler allegedly found a fully operational still, with assumed illicit prune brandy emerging from the nozzle. A substantial collection of prune stones, hinting at the still’s continuous use, was also discovered by the officers.

Nestled between the hills and the coast in central California, Paso Robles remains isolated and pastoral enough to feel like California Valhalla.

Paso Robles is one of those places you want the rest of the world to completely ignore. Midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, bordered by Highway 1 on the coast and the 101 Freeway, the small town somehow remains isolated, pastoral and undeveloped enough to feel like hidden California promised land.

Keeping that secret is getting tougher. Years ago, my elderly neighbor in Los Angeles would sneak off for weekends to his mysterious property in “Paso,” and I’d always say, “Wait. Where?” If only I’d gone in on the real estate with him. Today, Paso Robles is among California’s fastest-growing wine regions (with more than 300

wineries), with beach access, Michelin stars, truly mind-blowing art, and a cowboy-country-vibe unlike anything else in the state.

To keep things simple, I’ll give it to you straight. Here are the three ingredients to a perfect weekend in Paso Robles.

STAY

With 16 Euro-chic rooms and 20 more on the way, Hotel Cheval remains top pony when it comes to Paso Robles luxury accommodations.

There aren’t any actual horses at Hotel Cheval but the equestrian-themed boutique hotel in the center of town is top pony when it comes to Paso accommodations. The original 16 rooms are built around an inviting courtyard with fire pits (there’s even a s’mores butler). And the Euro-chic rooms are stunning: High wood-beamed ceilings, glassed-in showers for two, giant beds with goose-down comforters that are soft-as-a-cloud. Each room has a fireplace and a few have sundecks and outdoor patios. Breakfasts are included and so is the penny candy in the hotel library. Twenty new rooms are scheduled to open in a second building across Pine Street in 2024. More reasons for Cheval guests to say, “Whoa, Nelly!”

DO

So-not-overrated: Bruce Munro’s Sensorio will blow your mind, plain and simple.

True confession: I kept avoiding Bruce Munro’s Light at Sensorio exhibition because everyone kept telling I had to see it. Stubbornly, I took that as a signal that Sensorio was overrated. What’s the big deal about a few outdoor lights anyway? Reader, I was wrong. Way wrong. The immersive walk-through bathes you in a candy-colored dreamscape of more than 100,000 illuminated orbs that change color across the undulating fields. It’s more than an art exhibit; it’s a transformative experience. A mushroom trip without the mushrooms. A celebration of light and technology and nature. Even if you’ve seen it before, it’s worth seeing again. Two new Munro exhibits, Gone Fishing and Fireflies, opened this year, making it one of California’s most innovative and engaging contemporary art installations.

EAT

Inventive, whimsical and off-the-charts delicious: In Bloom is worth a detour even if you do nothing else in Paso Robles.

Even if you don’t do anything else in Paso Robles it’s worth making a detour to In Bloom. Founded last year by restaurateurs Chris and Nicole Haisma, the place embodies laidback Paso sophistication at its finest. Executive Chef Kenny Seliger is a talent on par with anyone you’ll find in those two megalopolises to the north and south, and Michelin has already signaled out his inventive ever-changing menu for “perfectly executed branzino,” and dishes, cocktails, and wine that “reflect the spirit of California’s Central Coast.” I’ll go so far as to say our recent meal at In Bloom was our best meal of 2023. Think I’m overselling the place? That’s fine. I’m all about keeping Paso Robles under-the-radar as long as possible.

Charlie and Jess Koehler, proprietors of La Finquita Winery and Vineyard, cite the fervor of fellow vintners in the Ramona region and what they dub as “the modern allure of viticulture” as their motivation to delve into the winemaking industry.

Over time, Jess Koehler shares, La Finquita has cultivated a dedicated fanbase of recurrent patrons and wine club members, successfully marketing around eight to ten wine varieties, contingent upon the current culinary offering.

Approximately a year ago, the Koehlers, both grappling with distinct auto-immune health problems, declared their intent to shutter their tasting room. With the impending December 17 shutdown, the couple takes a moment to look back on their journey within the sector and to ponder on what the future may bring.

Charlie Koehler, a full-time IT employee who spends his days traversing the country for his profession, articulates that the occupation served as a welcome respite from the rigor of the corporate environment for him.

“I was on the road for eight weeks straight October through November,” he said. “I’ve been to 119 different hotels this year.”

Working the vineyard gave Koehler a break, and being able to take phone calls while out in the field was a highlight for him. Soon after the winery was started and work picked up, Jess Koehler took on more and more work around the winery, at 23123 Vista Ramona Road.

“A lot of the responsibility and day-to-day shifted to me, rather than both of us,” she said.

“Our whole goal was to do it together,” her husband said.

Wine played a significant role in the relationship of the couple, as shared by Jess Koehler. Being together, especially during their wine experiences, was crucial for them.

On their six months anniversary of being together in 2008, Charlie Koehler took Jess to Julian for an apple picking experience. They attempted to visit one of the wineries in Julian, however, it was so crowded that they didn’t get a chance to even step inside. It was Jess’s first time for a wine tasting.

Instead, they chose to visit the Schwaesdall Winery in Ramona, where they enjoyed a private tour and barrel tasting.

“We spent a major chunk of the day there, about three to four hours, and made really good friends with the owners,” shared Jess Koehler.

Several months later that same year, they were both offered a job at Schwaesdall. When Charlie Koehler proposed to Jess, he had two etched bottles of the tawny port the couple had tried during their first visit at Schwaesdall, made for the occasion.

This tawny port is made in a large tank at Schwaesdall, to which more wine is added to each year to build more flavor, Charlie Koehler said. A labor of love.

“It’s just kind of been throughout our relationship falling in love with each other and the world of wine,” Jess Koehler said.

Koehler said the couple has been dealing with significant health issues and decided to wrap up the La Finquita chapter to focus on health and family.

She mentioned that their fondness for the winery and their interaction with the clients remains strong. That’s why they’re sustaining the wine club. Additionally, La Finquita will keep on supplying other stores and restaurants, according to Charlie Koehler, even expanding their wholesale distribution to places as distant as Hillcrest.

Although the pair no longer produces wine, they still possess about 60 barrels and approximately 2,000 cases of wine. The wine and slush clubs will still operate for the forthcoming year, Jess Koehler assured, and they are welcoming new entrants.

“If the weather is extraordinarily pleasant, we’re considering setting up some spontaneous opening hours,” she expressed.

They announced that these openings would be accessible to all, however, the dates are yet to be determined.

Charlie Koehler announced plans to spend the next year determining their future course of action.

“We’re not removing any vines, we can still continue production,” he explained. “The key is figuring out just how much we want to produce and what the demand might be for the new style we’re planning to sell.”

If you’re interested in staying informed about the winery’s updates, you can subscribe to the newsletter at www.lafinquitawinery.com/newsletter/

A West Roxbury man has been taken into custody in relation to the alleged assault that took place outside a Dedham wine store on Sunday.

The Dedham District Court issued a warrant today leading to the arrest of 22-year-old Gesner Joseph for his purported involvement in the assault incident outside Total Win on Providence Highway last Sunday evening.

As informed by Dedham Police Chief Michael J. D’Entremont to Boston 25, a group comprising 6-8 people assaulted an employee from Total Wine on Route 1 while the establishment was being closed.

An ambulance attended to the male victim for medical evaluation, but he declined to be taken to a hospital. The victim’s mobile phone was reported to be seized during the unfortunate incident, according to police.

D’Entremont mentions the possibility of the group being denied service on Saturday.

There was at least one knife showcased during the occurrence, as mentioned by D’Entremont.

Joseph is expected to face charges for 2 counts of assault and battery with a deadly weapon, assault by means of a dangerous weapon, theft from an individual, and intimidation of a witness.

Whether or not any other suspects will be charged is still uncertain.

The incident remains under investigation.

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By Natalie Gale

The Boston Harbor Hotel will welcome some of the top names in winemaking for its 35th Annual Boston Wine & Food Festival, running this year from Jan. 12 through March 29. Over the span of two and a half months, the hotel hosts a long lineup of wine dinners, seminars, and themed receptions, all led by executive chef David Daniels and sommelier Nick Daddona.

The celebration, geared towards oenophiles, is the nation’s longest running food and wine festival.

Highlights of this year’s festival include the Grand Cru California wine reserve dinner, the Knights Bridge Winery dinner, the Women’s Gala winemaker dinner, and, special this year, the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti reserve dinner. Tickets to these events and more are currently on sale. Check out these and other events on this year’s schedule.

“We are excited to bring a diverse selection of wines and experiences to our attendees this year,” said Daniels, in a statement. “The 2024 festival lineup reflects the richness and variety of the global wine landscape.”

Boston Harbor Hotel offers a special room rate of $295 for festival attendees, subject to availability. A portion of proceeds from this year’s event will go to the Greater Boston Food Bank and Wine Unify.

For more information, visit boswineandfoodfestival.com.

Stay up to date on all the latest news from Boston.com

Be civil. Be kind.

Some of the sparkling wines and Champagnes recommended this week. (Photo by Ken Ross)

This time of year, one particular type of wine often takes center stage – sparkling wine.

From holiday parties to New Year’s Eve toasts, family gatherings to other celebrations, many people will be raising a glass of sparkling wine this month.

This is why I have made a point about writing about sparkling wine this time of year since I first started writing this wine column 11 years ago in 2012.

Let me add that I’ve been urging people to drink sparkling wine throughout the year for even longer as well. Why just wait until now to enjoy something that tastes so good?

So which sparkling wines should you serve? And what’s the difference between Champagne, Prosecco, Cava and other popular sparkling wines?

This week, you can find the answers to all these questions, along with recommendations for several sparkling wines from around the world.

Some of these sparkling wines cost under $20 a bottle. Others cost a lot more. But all of them have one thing in common. They all taste terrific!

Hope you enjoy.

HISTORY OF SPARKLING WINE

First, it’s important to understand that sparkling wine is made with grapes just like any other wine. More in a bit about which grapes are used to make sparkling wine, but just wanted to clear up any possible confusion, which is easy when it comes to wine, which can often be overwhelming. References to sparkling wine with bubbles date back to ancient Greek and Roman times, when people reportedly thought the bubbles were due to other-worldly factors, including the phases of the moon and good or evil spirits. Modern sparkling wine dates back to the 1660s, when a monk named Dom Perignon created Champagne. Thank you, Dom!

WHERE BUBBLES COME FROM

Three crucial constituents contribute to the fizziness in sparkling wine – sugar, yeast, and time. Various elements are mixed with wine during the fermentation process, among them sugar and yeast. However, time is equally influential. A significant number of sparkling wines are aged for extended periods, typically months or even years, in the wine producers’ storage areas or extensive caves located beneath the earth’s surface. Generally, vintners develop sparkling wine by introducing yeast and sugar to the wine that’s already bottled. These bottles are then systematically rotated for a span ranging from several months to a good couple of years before they can be made available in the market. Sparkling wine production is achieved through various methodologies. Nevertheless, this specific process is a preferred method by many and appropriately labeled the ‘traditional method.’

KEY REGIONS FOR SPARKLING WINE

A widespread misconception about sparkling wine is that its name is derived from its place of production. Contrarily, not all sparkling wine can be classified as Champagne. The term ‘Champagne’ represents a distinct geographical location where this particular beverage is produced, that being the Champagne region in France.

Furthermore, two other types of sparkling wines are also designated based on their areas of production. Prosecco is a form of Italian sparkling wine that originates from the Veneto region, close to Venice in Italy. Conversely, Cava is a type of Spanish sparkling wine, primarily sourced from the Penedes region in proximity to Barcelona, Spain.

So in short, Champagne, Prosecco and Cava only come from specific places and nowhere else. You can also find many great sparkling wines from other parts of France, California, Argentina, Canada and practically anywhere in the world.

DRY VS. SWEET SPARKLING WINE

Perhaps more than any other wine, sparkling wines cover a huge range – from very sweet to very dry. What makes sparkling wine so confusing is some so-called “dry” wines are actually quite sweet.

The more sugar there is in a sparkling wine, the sweeter it tastes. There are six basic levels of sweetness. From sweetest to driest, the six different sweetness levels for sparkling wines are:

SPARKLING WINE GRAPES

Winemakers use many different types of grapes to make sparkling wine. Some of the most common grapes, particularly in France’s Champagne region, include:

Certain grapes are also often used to make other types of sparkling wine. Prosecco is made with glera grapes, which used to be called prosecco grapes. Cava is generally made with macabeo, parellada and xarello grapes but can be made with other grapes as well.

VINTAGE vs. NON VINTAGE

Occasionally, you might notice that some sparkling wines have a year marked on the label. This refers to the specific year in which the grapes for that wine were harvested. If so, this indicates that the sparkling wine comes from a specific Vintage. However, the majority of sparkling wines are Non-Vintage, implying that the grapes originate from more than one year.

SPARKLING WINE TASTING NOTES

UNITED STATES

Gruet Brut Rose ($17.99 at Table & Vine in West Springfield and various other locations)

(New Mexico, USA)

New Mexico isn’t a place you’d expect to find a great, dry sparkling wine. But Gruet has been defying expectations for decades, making crisp, delightfully dry sparkling wines like this rose of the desert.

J Vineyards Cuvée 20 ($40 Suggested Retail Price)

(Russian River Valley, California)

Created in the cool, coastal climate of California’s Russian River Valley, this delightful sparkling wine has a rich blend of subtle flavors, including hints of raspberry, cherry and peach, along with toasty, nuttier notes as well. Absolutely delightful.

SOUTH AMERICA

Domaine Bousquet Charmat Brut ($13 SRP)

(Mendoza, Argentina)

Another home run from one of the world’s best producers of consistently good, affordable, dry wines. This sparkling wine made with a blend of 75 percent chardonnay and 25 percent pinot noir grapes has a crisp, light, delicate finish with hints of lemon, apples and lime. Truly refreshing.

SPAIN (CAVA)

Segura Viudas Brut Cava ($9.99 at Table & Vine)

(Catalonia, Spain)

This delicious, affordable, reliable sparkling wine from Spain has long been one of my go-to wines over the years, especially when I’m looking for something crisp, dry and refreshing on a hot summer day or with oysters and other shellfish. Definitely one of the best wine values around.

Dibon Cava Brut Reserve ($12 SRP)

(Penedes, Spain)

Another one of my favorite, affordable Spanish Cavas, this wonderful, dry sparkling wine has a clean, crisp taste. I especially love this sparkling wine’s well-balanced finish. By well-balanced, I mean that the Dibon wasn’t too overpowering or underwhelming. It tasted just right.

ITALY (PROSECCO)

Zardetto Prosecco Brut DOC NV ($14.99 at Table & Vine)

(Veneto, Italy)

Made with a blend of glera grapes and a dash of pinot bianco and chardonnay grown in the hills near Conegliano, this crisp, dry Prosecco from one of the most consistently great wineries in Italy has a slightly citrus-like finish with hints of lemon, apricot and ripe blood oranges.

Altemasi Trentodoc Millesimato Brut ($20 SRP)

(Trento, Italy)

Elegant, refined sparkling wine made with 100 percent chardonnay grapes from the Trento region in northern central Italy. Flavors range from toasted almonds with a hint of honey to melted butter and a dash of hazelnuts. Perfect on cold winter nights before or after dinner.

FRENCH SPARKLING WINES

De Chanceny Cremant de Loire Brut ($17 SRP)

(Loire Valley, France)

Made with a blend of three grapes (70 percent chenin blanc, 15 percent chardonnay and 15 percent cabernet franc), this crisp, dry, sparkling wine has a wonderful, slightly nutty, clean finish with hints of toasted almonds, melted butter and rye toast. Simply wonderful.

Le Grand Courtage Brut ($19 SRP)

(Burgundy, France)

Made in Burgundy with grapes from several French wine regions, this crisp, flinty refreshing sparkling wine more than held its own against many higher-priced wines. Love the finish on this great, affordable wine.

CHAMPAGNE

Chateau de Bligny Grand Rosé (SRP $59)

(Champagne, France)

A lesser-known Champagne producer that’s part of the smaller, grower Champagne trend, this delicious Champagne made with equal parts chardonnay and pinot noir has a wide range of wonderful, refreshing flavors, including hints of fresh strawberries, raspberries and orange zest.

Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial Champagne ($54.99 at Table & Vine)

(Champagne, France)

Another consistently great Champagne house, Moet & Chandon (which I visited earlier this year in France) excels at producing dry, crisp, refreshing Champagnes – many of which cost just over $50 a bottle. Their flagship Champagne, I am constantly impressed by the quality and consistency of the Brut Imperial Champagne, which is filled with fascinating flavors and enticing aromas, including roasted almonds, fresh peach and a hint of cherry mixed with honey.

Laurent Perrier Non Vintage Brut ‘La Cuvee’ Champagne ($64.99 at Table & Vine)

(Champagne, France)

One of my favorite champagne producers, Laurent Perrier has been making great champagne since 1812. I could have easily picked several other Laurent Perrier champagnes (including their “Brut Nature,” another outstanding one) but I decided to recommend this one since it’s affordable, readily available and delicious. Its flavors are crisp, dry, slightly nutty (think roasted almonds) and refreshing.

Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut ($64.99 at Table & Vine)

(Champagne, France)

Another one of my favorite Champagne producers which I visited earlier this year, this non-vintage Brut Champagne will appeal to traditional Champagne fans. Here, you can practically taste the chalky, limestone walls in this crisp, toasty Champagne with hints of roasted almonds, melted butter and an unexpected dash of apricot.

Taittinger Brut La Francaise Non Vintage Champagne ($49.99 at Table & Vine)

(Champagne, France)

Along with Laurent Perrier and Perrier Jouet, Taittinger produces several outstanding champagnes at a wide range of prices. Honestly, I have never had a bad bottle of Taittinger champagne. They’re all dry, crisp, refreshing and bursting with flavor. Its Brut La Francaise champagne has a wonderful, crisp, refreshing finish with toasted nut flavors, along with a dash of melted butter. Great Champagne produced by true artists since 1734.

Cheers!

Wine Press by Ken Ross appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s Weekend section every Thursday.

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This story is from an installment of The Oeno Files, our weekly insider newsletter to the world of fine wine. Sign up here.

In the pursuit of learning as much as we can about wine so we can share that knowledge with others, we have been to every country in the world that produces it in any significant quantity. People are often surprised to discover that we have visited multiple wine regions and too many wineries to count in China, and their response to finding this out is often along the lines of, “Well the wine’s not very good, is it?” Considering China’s size (it has roughly the same land mass as the United States), varied climates, and the fact that wine has been made there for around 2,000 years, it’s hard to believe that anyone would just dismiss the entire country, but here we are.

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One needs to simply look at the external investment in Chinese wine projects to realize the seriousness of the $42 billion annual winemaking business there. Nearly 500 wineries are present across 12 key regions. Significant players like Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy, Domaine Baron de Rothschild (D.B.R.) Lafite, and Penfolds’ involvement makes even the fiercest critic take note. This does not imply that wineries without international involvement are not producing high-quality wine, but most of those at the top-tier predominantly sell within their domestic market and refrain from global distribution.

The LVMH project, Ao Yun, meaning “flying above the clouds,” was the first to hit the market with the release of the 2013 vintage. This boutique winery, nestled high in the Himalayas within the Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, houses 68 acres of vineyards situated in bends of the Mekong River at altitudes ranging from 7,200 to 8,500 feet above sea level. Bordeaux native and Estate director and winemaker, Maxence Dulou, segmented the vineyards into 314 blocks and 900 sub-blocks based on variances in soil, terroir, drainage, and sunlight exposure. Each plot is hand-tended, vinified separately, then blended to produce a rich wine resembling a Bordeaux-style blend, with a hint of Syrah. Dulou’s precision, both in the vineyard and during blending, results in a pleasant wine that regularly receives high critical acclaim. He characterizes his wine as having a balance of “freshness and ripeness in the nose and acidity and density in the mouth”, with very mature tannins providing a soft, gentle texture. The United States makes up a minor market for Ao Yun, receiving only 10 percent of exports, but the wine is relatively accessible. Half of it is sold in China, with another 20 percent distributed throughout Asia.

Far to the northeast and just slightly higher than sea level, D.B.R. Lafite established its terraced vineyards in Shandong Province in 2008. Known in China simply as the Chinese Lafite, the first vintage of Long Dai is the 2017, released in 2019. As shared by Technical Director Olivier Tregoat, the priority of the Domaine de Long Dai is to know the terroir and develop expertise in soils and grape types, led by a solid local team, to find the best expression of the Shandong terroir and create a unique Chinese wine with a French touch. Long Dai isn’t your traditional Bordeaux blend; it’s crafted with 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 percent Cabernet Franc and 25 percent Marselan, a cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon that is widely cultivated in China. Marselan adds hints of baking spice and floral notes to the wine’s dark-berry flavors and smooth tannins. It is predominantly sold in mainland China with strong distribution among wine collectors and wine enthusiasts, but it’s still possible to locate Long Dai online at several trustworthy retailers at costs close to its suggested retail price of $699.

The other venture we noticed is Penfolds, which recently released its Penfolds 2021 Chinese Winemaking Trial 521 Cabernet Sauvignon Marselan, or for short, Penfolds CWT 521. The numbers 5-2-1 represent five regions where the grapes are sourced and the vintage year of the wine. Matt Woo, Penfolds’ winemaker, expresses that CWT represents an expression of Penfolds house style through a Chinese lens, speaking both to Penfolds varietal characters and reflecting the regions from which it originated.

Unless you’re planning a trip to China or Australia, finding a bottle of Penfolds CWT 51 might be a challenge. As for other Chinese wines we’ve covered, they are enjoyable now and will continue to age nicely at home for at least another decade. Despite this, they have not attained the status of investment wine. As Nick Pegna, Sotheby’s global head of wine and spirits shared, there’s been a limited presence of top Chinese wineries in the auction salesroom. This is likely because these wineries are relatively new, and there’s not yet a substantial increase in values. While there is a following for the new releases of Long Dai and especially for Ao Yun, and their quality level is excellent, they have not reached the point of being considered collectibles. This suits us just fine as we believe wine is meant to be savored, not stored away for profit.

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