Wine 1004

There’s a certain amount of (self-imposed) pressure to get everything just-so as friends and family gather over the festive period. Whether you’re throwing a party, hosting the main event, or you’ve been invited to share in someone else’s celebrations, you want to make sure the drinks live up to expectations. Which wine should I pour with Christmas pud? What can I offer the designated driver? Do I need to let my red breathe before I serve it and what does that even mean? How can I stop my brother-in-law squirrelling away my expensive bottle and serving me plonk?

We’ve put your thorny wine questions to our panel of experts: Telegraph columnists Susy Atkins and Victoria Moore; and award-winning commentator and trained sommelier Hamish Anderson. They’ve tackled your drink-based conundrums so you can spend more time doing what really matters this Christmas. Like settling a decades-old score with your siblings. Bottoms up.

– VB

Victoria says: I’m happy to say that both of you are ‘right’. As you so succinctly say with the use of those inverted commas, there isn’t a right and a wrong in wine but there are norms and some wines rub along better with certain foods than others. As with roast chicken, you can very happily go white or red with turkey.

Undoubtedly, wine pairings largely rely on the accompanying dishes, which results in your emphasis on fruity stuffing, cranberry sauce, pigs in blankets and so forth, pushing the balance towards a hearty wine. There are both red and white choices to cater to this.

When considering whites, you might opt for a path through Burgundy. This would definitely complement those who pour creamy, nutmeg-infused bread sauce on their meals. White Rhône and Rhône-style (consider South Africa) blends comprising of marsanne, roussanne, viognier, white grenache and clairette are also adept at handling the Christmas dinner repertoire.

Moving on to reds, grenache-based blends will harmonise seamlessly with all the fruit and pork elements; Beaujolais or a young pinot noir will match the tangy brightness of cranberries; and a robust Bordeaux will keep everyone content.

Of course, it’s not merely about the pairings. The key is to choose a wine that sets the right ambiance. And one that you genuinely enjoy.

<p><em>– TG</em></p>

<p><strong>Hamish says</strong>: The practice of opening a wine and leaving it to breathe in the bottle does very little, as such a small amount of liquid is in contact with air. To substantially change the flavour quickly, you need to decant. For young wines, which are unlikely to have any sediment, this is as simple as pouring them into a clean vessel wide enough to expose a reasonable surface area to air – a decanter looks the part, but a glass jug works just as well. Older wines require a steady hand, and a light source to highlight sediment as you carefully decant at 45 degrees.</p>

<p>How long you leave them before serving varies from bottle to bottle. If you don’t know a wine, open it a couple of hours beforehand and give it a taste. If it is mute, one-dimensional, or overly tannic then a few hours properly exposed to air will open up the flavours and help it to soften. As a rough guide, many full-bodied, young wines (including some whites) benefit from a good stint exposed to air – three hours is usually my starting point. Richer styles or grape varieties need longer, while lighter styles require less time or none at all. So, while I might leave a young Australian Cabernet on the side for three or four hours to develop, I rarely decant Pinot Noir.</p>

<p><em>– DA</em></p>

Susy states: Previously, drivers and individuals who don’t consume alcohol had limited drink choices at special events. They could only choose between orange juice, elderflower pressé, or mocktails. These options are often sweet, which is not particularly attractive during extended periods of eating and drinking. Thankfully, nowadays there are numerous sophisticated non-alcoholic beverages available, including excellent no-alcohol beers and non-alcoholic aperitifs and spirits. However, these are generally quite expensive.

When it comes to wines, while I haven’t discovered a non-alcoholic red that I would exchange for a quality juice, I’ve found the non-alcoholic whites have significantly improved. For instance, there is no-alcohol riesling, which preserves its juicy tang. Some of the best adult non-alcoholic beverages I’ve tasted recently are the new range of sparkling teas from the Copenhagen Tea Company. Keeps in mind that some contain low, not zero, alcohol content. These were created in Denmark by a renowned sommelier, and they exhibit exceptional balance and richness. Expect dry varieties with delicate hints of spice, floral elements, and mild tannins. They should be chilled and served similarly to sparkling wine.

– JL

Victoria articulates: This appears to be two questions in one. The first part is how to stop your brother-in-law from being extraordinarily irritating. The truth is, you cannot. However, you can manage the problematic aspects that trigger you. So, this year don’t bring any wine. Instead, choose something else and explicitly specify that it’s a present for the hosts and it’s not for the event’s consumption.

If there is a silent contract that requires you to bring wine, then take it. However, don’t expect to consume it. Make sure it’s something you would be pleased to be offered if it is uncorked, and spend the amount of money that you think is an acceptable contribution to the day.

Now, let’s move on to the second question: how can you drink something of semi-decent quality on Christmas Day? Although I doubt you’re going to have a high-quality wine, you still have other options. You could take the hard alcohol path: ask for a Gamp;T or a vodka-martini. Propose to make it yourself because you’re picky. Carry the ingredients with you, don’t just hand them over, but feel free to offer to create a cocktail for others. Finally, anticipate the excellent glass of wine you’ll consume at home on Boxing Day.

— CD

Victoria comments: As you most likely know, châteauneuf-du-pape is a denomination in the southern rhône. Red châteauneuf is very expressive, full in taste and high in alcohol content. Moreover, it is composed of a mixture. Grenache, supplemented with mourvèdre and syrah, is the leading variety among the eighteen allowed in red châteauneuf.

You don’t need to look too far away to discover something similar; there are several other names in the southern Rhône region that produce red wines with similar notes of sweetly fragrant red berries and garrigue herbs. You might want to sample from gigondas, cairanne, vinsobres or rasteau. By all means, give a côtes du rhône a try. Or perhaps a lirac, which hails from similar soil composition on the opposite side of Rhône river, albeit its often more laden with dark fruits compared to châteauneuf.

But don’t feel restricted to Rhône. Explore a GSM (grenache-syrah-mourvèdre) from other regions. There are very impressive versions found in the Languedoc, or you could cast your net towards South Africa or Australia. These wines complement Christmas dinner exceptionally well as they carry enough weight for all the fruit-filled, porcine flavors present in the stuffings and sauces.

– DA

Susy speaks: There are a good number of opportunities throughout the festive season that warrant a glass of port. Ruby ports, generally known for their relaxed nature, brimming with juicy red cherries and a hint of pepper, are a perfect pairing with mince pies and Christmas cake, or even stollen or gingerbread. These are the types of port wines you’d want to splash into your mulled wine or add to a beef or venison casserole for that extra depth of flavor.

Late bottled vintage (LBVs) and vintage ports are my preferred choices for enjoying alongside a festive cheese board, perfect for festive occasions like Christmas Eve or Boxing Day. To truly savor the ports, decant them to improve their aroma and remove any sediment. Dress up your cheese board with an assortment of crackers, fresh and dried fruits, and certainly, include the classic Stilton cheese.

However, if I were to single out my top-most pairing, it would undoubtedly be tawny port with chocolate. It has been a custom in our household to chill a bottle of this delightful port over Christmas, serving it with a box of exquisite dark chocolates. Not only does it pair well with chocolate desserts, but it also enhances the flavors of nutty and toffee puddings. The unique blend of mellow, creamy, caramel, and orange peel undertones in a tawny port goes famously well with grand desserts like profiteroles.

– WF

Hamish points out: The mere act of uncorking a bottle of wine and pouring a glass introduces oxygen into the liquid, initiating its degradation. The aroma and flavor of a wine left uncorked for too long tend to decay, resulting in a less fruity and vibrant taste — it’s not necessarily undrinkable, but nowhere near as favorful. If left for even longer, one can detect oxidative notes: with whites you’ll get a nutty flavor akin to some sherries, whereas in reds, the fresh fruit tones transform into a dried character, resembling prunes or raisins.

While there are plenty of preservation systems out there, they cannot undo what has already happened – at best they buy you an extra day or two by stopping more contact with air. If you have a vacuum pump, a device that sucks air out of an open bottle via a plastic stopper, use it. Failing that, close the bottle with its original seal.

If you have had a party and are left with multiple open bottles of the same wine, decant them into each other so you end up with full bottles, reducing the amount of wine in contact with air. Aim to use them up within a couple of days. Light-bodied or older wines don’t last as long as young or full-bodied ones so drink those first. Port will keep in good condition for around five days, since the extra sugar and alcohol act as preservatives.

It is worth investing in inexpensive sparkling wine stoppers to use on open bottles of fizz. They won’t stop the wine oxidising but will help to maintain bubbles for a few days, longer if the bottle is nearly full. A teaspoon inserted into the neck of an open bottle, silver or not, does nothing. Two systems I would recommend are Coravin (from £129.99), which ingeniously extracts wine from a bottle without letting air in and will preserve the contents for weeks, months or even years. The other is Eto (from £129), an elegant decanter that does a fine job of stopping further contact with air and should help your wine to last for about a week; use it as soon as you open a bottle for best effect.

– JS

Susy says: It’s a tall order for one wine to be the perfect match for three desserts which are so very different in flavours and textures. The clementine trifle would, ideally, be paired with a tangy, golden dessert wine such as Bordeaux’s sauternes, while the Christmas pudding and Yule log can take a richer, more sticky wine like tawny port, Australian liqueur muscat or Hungary’s sublime tokaji.

But you are looking for a more versatile sweet wine and I’ve got two styles to suggest. First, the vins doux naturels made from muscat in southern France, such as those from Rivesaltes or Beaumes-de-Venise. These are lightly fortified so although they taste fresh, they can have deliciously concentrated flavours of apricot and crystallised citrus fruit that match a range of sweet treats. Chill them lightly and pour 75 millilitres into white wine glasses.

My other suggestion is Sicily’s marsala, a lovely fortified wine made from local grapes and aged for up to ten years. It pairs well with with mince pies and Christmas pudding as well as chocolate desserts. It can take on a trifle too and I love it with a slice of fruit-studded panettone.

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There are many reasons you might want to steer clear of red food dye for coloring the next time you make a red velvet cake. Maybe you’re allergic to it, maybe you’d rather not use dyes, maybe you ran out and your cake batter is more pink than red, or maybe you had an accidental spill that made your kitchen look somewhat unsettling. Whatever the case, there are alternatives to red food coloring that don’t require placing an Amazon special order for beet powder. Indeed, you might have a bottle of a terrific crimson colorant already kicking around your kitchen: Red wine.

Cookbook author Stella Parksuses 1 ½ cups of dry red wine in her red velvet cake. The color will be pale when the batter is raw, but it will develop into a deep burgundy in the oven. This method won’t yield bright, stop-sign-red cake layers, but they will be reddish.

The “dry” part of dry red wine is quite important. Dry means that there is little to no residual sugar in the wine; it all got fermented out. If you have an off-dry, semi-dry, or sweet red, it can become difficult to adjust for the additional sugar in the recipe. Parks uses a cabernet sauvignon: Full-bodied, fruity, and deep red. Zinfandel or a deep pinot noir can be used, but maybe avoid the grassy notes of a cabernet franc.

Read more: Cake Hacks Every Baker Will Wish They Knew Sooner

Red wine, just like several other ‘red’ colored food such as red grapes, berries, beets, red cabbage, among others, contains anthocyanins. These compounds, which give the plants their red or purple hue, are also present in cocoa powder. Particularly, it is the raw, natural cocoa powder that contains anthocyanins. The Dutch-processed cocoa, however, undergoes an alkalizing process that changes its color from brick red to dark brown due to neutralization.

The anthocyanins are sensitive to pH. Hence, when lemon juice is added to red cabbage, it changes its color to a super-bright, vibrant pink. Similarly, when an acid is added to the anthocyanins in cocoa powder, it causes a color change. In many recipes for red velvet cake, buttermilk, which is already acidic, is used. Also, white distilled vinegar is used to increase the acidity, causing the anthocyanins in the natural cocoa powder to react and turn the cake redder when baked. Wine, which is acidic and contains its own anthocyanins, is also used in Stella Parks’s red velvet cake recipe instead of the acidified buttermilk, giving the raw cocoa a redder color.

Various posters and bakers on social media who have made the cake claim that the resulting cake is a brighter-colored chocolate cake that can be perceived as red with either a keen eye or a decent amount of imagination. There are instances where the cake appears to be burgundy, provided one looks at it under the right light and with a little stretch of imagination, according to a baker on X, formerly known as Twitter. Initially, it might appear similar to a brown chocolate cake, but once cut, the difference in the interior color becomes noticeable.

A baker on Reddit shared that although the final color wasn’t extremely red, it was redder than a usual chocolate cake. Someone inquired if one could identify it as a red velvet cake with eyes closed, to which the responses varied. However, a user chimed in to add that the red wine red velvet cake, despite its color, has a distinct taste, which sets it apart from a regular devil’s food cake. The bitterness of the raw cocoa coupled with the tanginess of the wine in the batter gives it the characteristic red velvet taste. Irrespective of the color, the baker said that a red velvet cake made with red wine was ‘absolutely the best cake they’ve ever made.’

Read the original article on Daily Meal.

There is no doubt about it: Boxed wine has a bad reputation. Some might even characterize bag-in-box wine as “fast, cheap, easy, and fake” which is definitely not a compliment when it comes from foodies or wine snobs.

“You are what you eat so don’t be fast, cheap, easy, or fake.”

Is box wine “fast”?

Is box wine “cheap”?

Is box wine “easy”?

Is box wine “fake”?

Box wine is fast, priced reasonably (for the most part), easy, and most definitely authentic. Plus, it’s growing in popularity. Indeed, with growing concerns about environmental issues, wine-in-a-box is garnering increased attention. There are a number of good reasons you might want to reconsider box wine—including that it might actually taste good!

A swift Google search will uncover a variety of recent articles discussing the best boxed wines to buy. Check out, for instance, the New York Times article “10 Boxed Wines That Are Really Good, Seriously” or Decanter’s bag-in-box must-try list, which was compiled following the blind tasting of 70 different varieties available in the UK. Tasting Table even goes so far as to list “11 Boxed Wine You Should Always Buy,” notable particularly as the top two boxed wines on their list are from Franzia.

Despite its reputation, Franzia is undeniably popular and proudly acknowledges the environmental advantages of drinking their wine over the bottled variety. On the “green practices” page of their website, they highlight: “When you walk out of the store with a box of Franzia, there’s a noticeable spring in your step. Why? Because your carbon footprint is suddenly a whole lot lighter…” However, while the carbon savings might be valid, the production specifics of the wine are infamously unclear, making it challenging to discern what other environmental impacts could be lurking behind the packaging.

Mass-produced wines, like those marketed by Franzia, necessitate a large production model to achieve an economy of scale. This makes the price so affordable that the actual taste becomes negligible. Nevertheless, if we go by sales, people do appreciate it. Franzia has recently initiated a new marketing campaign entitled, “Franz for life” that appears to be aiming to cultivate, or at least tap into, the sort of cult following enjoyed by the producers of another mass-produced wine, “Two Buck Chuck” (whose founder was the original creator of Franzia, even though the brand was eventually sold to Coca Cola).

In essence, whether Franzia is quality wine or not, it’s popular, and the benefits of box wine are numerous.

The winery in the United States that is best known for breaking the mold—quite literally by leaping into it—is Tablas Creek Vineyard. In 2022, they allocated 100 cases of their premium rosé to 3L (bag-in-)boxes. Selling at nearly $100 each, Tablas Creek bravely took a risk and found they were able to soar: The initial 352 boxes, their first endeavor into the bag-in-box format, sold out in merely four hours. On the strength of this initial release, and subsequent ones, Tablas Creek has been recognized for establishing that high-quality boxed wine can be marketed and, importantly, sold at fine wine price points. Bag-in-box wine is widely recognized in certain locations, and owners like Tablas Creek are showcasing the model’s viability here too.

If you need (or want) to taste to believe, as of this post, you can still secure a 3L box of Tablas Creek’s highly admired Rhone-style red, though I wouldn’t rely on it being available for an extended period (as the rosé and white blend are already sold out). I must caveat that this recommendation contradicts my previous advice regarding thinking out-of-the-box for gift options this festive season. However, if you can attain some, I certainly won’t pass judgment on whether you gift it to a friend or keep it all to yourself.

November 29, 2023

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by Center for Research in Agricultural Genomics (CRAG)

Spain produces 50% of the world’s cork and 30% of all cork stoppers. Cork is a natural polymer which has been a crucial element used to seal bottles, being of great importance for the wine industry. However, a major challenge is the appearance of the “corked wine” aroma, caused by the presence of a compound called trichloroanisole or TCA in the stoppers. Due to its high volatility, TCA can migrate from the cork to the wine, adversely affecting its taste.

In this context, the CRAG research team lead by David Caparrós-Ruiz, head of the Bioengineering of Lignocellulosic Biomass group, participated in the Cork2Wine project, which is coordinated by the cork company Francisco Oller SA.

This project is aimed at identifying the origin of TCA and explore solutions to the “corked wine” aroma problem. Researchers at CRAG analyzed cork oak samples from Sardinia and Girona, two regions with different TCA levels in the cork. The comparison of gene activity, achieved through sequencing and comparing RNA molecules, followed by bioinformatics studies, allowed this group to identify a list of phenolic metabolites present in different abundances in the two cork tree populations.

“Obtaining this list of compounds has been the first step to understand the complete TCA metabolic pathway. This knowledge is essential for finding new solutions to this problem,” says David Caparrós-Ruiz, leader of the research at CRAG.

While TCA is present in the cork, microorganisms are known to play a role in its production, which would use the oak’s phenolic compounds identified in this project as precursors to produce TCA. Identifying these precursor compounds is crucial and opens the possibility to build new biotechnological tools aimed at reducing or eliminating TCA in cork.

“Cork companies are eager to engage in research, and we are delighted with this collaboration with CRAG,” says Jordi Roselló, R&D head at Francisco Oller SA.

The Cork2Wine project was a consortium uniting various stakeholders in the cork sector, including companies, wineries, oak farms, a chemical sector company, and research groups. It lasted four years (from 2019 to 2023). The project served as the starting point for this public-private collaboration, which now continues thanks to a new research project awarded within the framework of the Recovery, Transformation, and Resilience Plan with Next Generation funds.

cork

The Cork2Wine project exemplifies how public-private partnerships can translate fundamental research into societal benefits, demonstrating the impact of knowledge generated in the research system on citizens.

Provided by Center for Research in Agricultural Genomics (CRAG)

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Vineyards on a fertile plain at the foot of Mount and volcano of Ararat and famous monastery of Khor Virap in the background at sunset.

This ancient winemaking country was never on my radar. Was it because few of the wines have historically been available in the U.S. or because the bulk of indigenous wine grapes are not familiar to us in the U.S.? It certainly also doesn’t help that the country has been buffeted by war on many sides for much of its long wine-making history.

Vineyards in Armenia

The wine grapes from the Caucasus, primarily Armenia and Georgia, never made the leap to Western Europe. As a result, most U.S. and European consumers don’t know much about them or how to pronounce them.

However, on my first trip to Armenia, I was impressed with the overall quality of the wines and the passion that local producers put into them. Sadly, very few of them are present on the U.S. market. Storica, the Boston-based importer who led this trip, is changing that up. As are international winemakers like Paul Hobbs, while collaborating on winemaking endeavors there; and the fact that the latest SOMM film, part of a series of four, is based on wine production in Armenia. The film was just released in the U.S. and I recently reviewed it.

This was also a particularly moving trip, which most wine country trips aren’t always, given the political situation in the country. Armenia has long had a tenuous relationship with neighboring Azerjaban and it is not getting any better. So, I felt that the producers really poured their heart and soul into hosting us there in more ways than one. I wonder how many American producers might have canceled tastings and winery visits if their homeland felt imperiled?

The Background

Ancient Storage Jar Found in Areni-1 Cave, World’s Earliest Known Winery in the Village of Areni, Archaeological site in Vayots Dzor Province of Armenia

Anyone interested in understanding Armenia should look at the country’s deep history of winemaking. The Areni-1Cave, the oldest known winery dating from over 6,000 years ago shows evidence of wine consumption dating back to 6000 B.C. The country’s primary Christian population has also ensured that wine has long been made for use in the church and at home.

There is also a deep-seated tradition of home winemaking all around the country—much like you see in Italy or any southern European country—which is testament to how much countryfolk like crafting what they grow in their yards in into a great dinner pairing. This is something we observed in abundance on this trip, at places like Yeganyan’s Gastroyard, an interactive culinary center where visitors can make lavash bread and traditional sweets (and enjoy them with BBQ at dinner right afterwards).

Churchkhela, Sweet sujukh – nuts covered with grape juice

The wine industry here is fueled by stalwarts who are reinventing the wheel, from within, and those who have come back from many years abroad. Vahe Keushguerian, the charming protagonist of SOMM4, vividly expresses why he headed home after years of living in Italy and the U.S. Paul Hobbs, the legendary California winemaker, who has put some new styles of Argentine Malbec on the map also became interested in producing wine this country in high-elevation vineyards with tons of sunshine. Hobbs has been making wine under theYacoubian-Hobbs label since 2014 and he has been producing wine in Sonoma since the early 2000s.

The Background on Hobbs

Paul Hobbs is a renowned California winemaker who boasts an extensive career, marked by exciting collaborations with producers in several countries. Among these are Argentina, Cahors in South France, and most recently, Armenia via his Yacoubian-Hobbs label venture over the past ten years.

In our brief exchange, he shared the origins of his collaboration with Armenia. Hobbs discussed his encounter with two Armenian brothers based in Los Angeles, who were fans of his California wines and acknowledged his key role in globalizing the Argentine wine industry. The brothers seriously proposed a venture to augment the global perception of their homeland’s wines and desired Hobbs’s assistance.

Hobbs shared that his early career experiences had strongly imprinted Armenia in his imagination, and with various factors aligning, he felt compelled to explore this opportunity. Once there, one core factor became pivotal – the terroir. If it elicited a positive response, exploration would intensify. If not, he would return home. He added that, logically, he also worked with a variety of famous European varietals to comprehend their adaptive response to this sector of the world’s unique terroir.

The Basics

Armenia has long been cut off from the international wine-producing world as it was part of the Soviet Union until 1991. As the Soviets did, with other neighboring countries like Moldova, the Armenians were told to focus on “Cognac,” and other fortified wines. This clearly is not even Cognac as it is made outside the French region of the name.

Rows of vineyards with Mount Ararat (5137 m) in the background, Armenia.

Areni is the country’s flagship red grape. What is more, many vineyards here are phylloxera-free and have been planted on their own roots: which is something you don’t see much in Europe except for small regions like Colares in Portugal.

A few of my favorites tasted on this trip included Noa Arkuri Noah Of Areni 2022, which had lovely stone fruit notes and flowers. The rosé sparkler from Kuesh is delightfully over the top with a fragrant aroma and hints of berries on the palate. It’s made by Keushguerian. Van Ardi is another notable producer with a nice estate. The winery’s 2022 Kangun—an indigenous white grape—had rich stone fruit notes, good acidity and notes of citrus and apricot skin on the finish.

Kebabs at Carousel.

Some of these unique varietals are picking up traction in U.S. restaurants, particularly where there is a large Armenian community in places like Glendale, in Los Angeles. Rosalie Tcholakian, an owner of the two-location Carousel restaurant shares that her dinners are growing more interested in Armenian wines. She adds that many non-Armenia customers are also showing up, so “Armenia is definitely on the map!”

Bag-in-box wine had previously garnered a poor reputation, with tie-ins to mediocre quality and last-minute sprees. Party-goers would balk at the thought of serving wine from a cardboard vessel. However, attitudes towards bag-in-box wines have shifted as more of them now contain better-quality, and sometimes even high-end, wine varieties.

Keeping a box of white or rosé in your refrigerator or perhaps a box of red in your pantry allows you to still have quality wine days after the box is initially opened. Most box wines promise a preservation of freshness for at least six weeks after being opened. However, personally, I’ve found the optimal freshness period to be somewhere around three to four weeks. Their petite and lightweight structure make them an unbeatable choice when you’re tasked with transporting alcohol to a dinner party or a large gathering. Available commonly in sizes of 1.5 liters (equal to two typical wine bottles) or 2.25 liters (the equivalent of three bottles), bag-in-box wines are highly convenient when you’re willing to let go of your delicate glass.

The environmentally friendly nature of bag-in-box wines is one of the main reasons they are produced. The carbon footprint of the lighter cardboard attached to a slim plastic bag and tap is significantly less than that of thicker glass. Although both are recyclable, the process of recycling glass (and its production), requires substantial energy.

Oliver Lea, a co-founder of The BIB Wine Company, who are reachable at @bibwine, stated that the carbon footprint of bag-in-box wines is “ten-fold less than that of bottled wine”. The BIB Wine Company offers a large postage-paid envelope to its customers to send back used taps and inner plastic bags. These materials are sent to a recycling plant where they undergo a “microwave-induced, energy-efficient process to break them down into reusable materials,” as Lea enlightened. He added, “We’re continuing to fine-tune the process, but its nature is predominantly circular.”

Also accepting returned, washed taps and bags is the company More Wine spearheaded by Rich Hamblin (@morewineontap), a firm specializing in uniquely packaged wine, often in boxes. The business structure of More Wine is primarily wholesale, constituting 85%, supplying pubs, bars, and restaurants, with the remaining 15% directed towards consumers. It typically deals in larger boxes, with one of its five-litre boxes equating to seven bottles.

More Wine (morewineontap) along with other similarly-focused companies and the newly-organized entity, Bobo (@bobo_wines), are the top independent players in the bag-in-box wine industry. In my review, I sampled an assortment of supermarket lines. Though there were a few subpar samples, including two lacklustre rosés, there were also excellent buys listed below.

I also enjoyed, considering the cost, the citrusy-bright Stormhoek Siren Fairtrade Organic Chenin Blanc 2023 from South Africa (11%, Co-op, £10.50 for 1.5 litres), and the zesty, crisp Taste the Difference Coolwater Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2022 from Marlborough, New Zealand (13%, Sainsbury’s, £20 for 1.5 litres).

If you’re purchasing any of these for a party, it’s very likely they won’t survive past a single evening, but don’t let that dissuade you. Regardless of whether it’s for a large group or a quiet night in with a high-quality beverage, it pays to think creatively.

(14%, Morrisons, £20 for 2.5 litres)

Introducing an aroma of cassis and dark chocolate, the taste of this softly oaked malbec is reminiscent of blackcurrants cooked with a touch of cinnamon. This fantastic value wine is rich and potent, therefore it complements party food (particularly red meat dishes/spicy canapés) better than being served by itself.

(12.5%, Waitrose, £26.99 for 2.25 litres, reduced to £21.99 from Nov 29 until Jan 1)

An eye-catching offer on a scented Sicilian white with refreshing tangerine peel and ripe pears, and a subtle hint of orange blossom. Dry finish, so it’s fine without food but would be good paired with lighter nibbles based on prawns or green vegetables such as asparagus or courgette.

(12.5%, Bobo, £46 for 2.25 litres)

Organic cabernet franc bursting with fresh raspberries plus some blackcurrants on the finish. Unoaked, youthful and succulent, it’s not too strong or heavy, so is versatile on its own as a quality party red or with food. Charcuterie would be my match.

(13%, BIB Wine Company, £51.22 for 2.25 litres)

Here’s a premium wine in a box, a fine Loire Valley sauvignon blanc with zesty lemon and grapefruit that zip across the palate, with a lip-smacking mineral finish but enough ripeness to round it out. I’m too mean to buy this for a party, but would happily serve it up for a smaller group with fish pie, shellfish or grilled goat’s cheese salad.

(13%, More Wine, £59.50 for 5 litres – equivalent to almost seven bottles)

A whopping big box of vivacious viognier from the south of France. There’s plenty of juicy apricots and a honeysuckle hint on the scent, but a dry, fresh finish. It’s a great idea for anyone planning a really big bash this Christmas. It’s refreshing on its own but also goes well with chicken, salmon and quiches. It may not fit in your fridge though – I stuck mine outside the back door.

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In addition to many holidays to celebrate, the final months of the year are also noted for two seemingly unrelated but interconnected events: End-of-year bonuses in the financial sector and end-of-year wine sales at major auction houses. We’ve read that bonuses are expected to be lower than usual for the second year in a row, and we’ve also heard from insiders in the auction world that prices may be lower than expected because the folks who’d normally snap up vintage Champagne and first-growth Bordeaux may not be as freewheeling as they have been in past years. That’s great news if you’re not dependent on that bonus to aid your cellar-filling shopping spree—and all the more reason to start scanning the auctions presented by Sotheby’s, Bonhams, Zachys, Christie’s, and other houses.

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One specific auction has caught our eye this season. Christie’s has combined two distinct collections to present “Fine Wine from the Cellar of Quincy Jones & A Diplomat’s Collection of Rarities.” The sale, running November 30 through December 11, includes 350 lots from the legendary musician and an unnamed diplomat who has a treasure trove from France’s best regions. Among the marquee names on offer—such as Pétrus, Cheval Blanc, Cristal, Krug, and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti—is the opportunity to purchase wines from Jones’s collection that are nearly a century old. Christie’s will auction off Cos d’Estournel 1928, Latour 1933, and Leacock’s Malvazia from the same year (which is when Jones was born), and Mouton 1934.

While all in all this sounds like an incredible assortment of bottles, some of the offerings give us pause, especially many of the older ones. We have drunk extremely old vintages of very fine wine, and often the experience is sublime. Other times, though, the ravages of time have not been kind to the treasured juice inside the bottle. The thought of opening a bottle with 90 years of age on it reminds us of the time we saw another great jazz and blues performer, Ray Charles, in concert. This was in 2002, two years before he died. While we walked out of the theater very happy to have seen him on stage and we thought he put on a terrific show, we couldn’t help but wish that we had seen him years before, when he was in his prime.

Conversations with peers in the world of wine have shown us that a sense of unease is not unusual, even when making a purchase from a trusted place, like a prominent auction house. “Bidding on wine at auction carries certain risks, particularly with regards to older bottles,” explains Robin Kelley O’Connor, a wine educator who acted as a liaison between Bordeaux and the United States for over two decades. “Specialists at top auction houses have extensive wine knowledge, but winning a bid and purchasing a wine doesn’t guarantee that it will age well,” she notes.

Yannick Benjamin, the recipient of Michelin’s 2023 Sommelier Award in New York, has been on the front lines of many wine collecting experiences, and they are not always positive. “I have been a sommelier at many auctions and have had times when the wines did not meet either the collector’s or my own expectations – much to our collective disappointment,” he shares. “The fact of the matter is, only a select few wines can truly stand the test of time.”

A wine’s failure to age well may not necessarily be its own fault. Responsibility might need to be shifted to the numerous stops it made during its journey from the winery to the auction. It could have been sold multiple times, and maybe some of the previous owners did not store the wines correctly. Our on-site tasting at Marqués de Riscal in Rioja last year, which included 30 vintages going back to 1862, demonstrated the benefits of meticulous wine care. We were thoroughly impressed with the consistency and quality of the wines served that day. They were fantastic in part because they had never been moved and kept at a steady temperature until opening – they had been stored right there at the winery where they were made. Sadly, you are unlikely to find this level of care in most wines you would purchase at auction.

Furthermore, even with exceptional care throughout its lifespan, a wine can age poorly and provide a subpar tasting experience. “What if that fine Champagne has the odour of aged Parmesan rind and off-putting truffle?” London-based Master of Wine, Anne Krebiehl posed this question to us. “What if the highly esteemed Burgundy is merely a faint echo of what it once was, appearing pale, brown, and more like a paltry smoked meat broth?” Indeed, we can conceive of many other ways we might prefer to spend a large sum of money rather than on a substandard smoked meat broth.

Obtaining an aged bottle of wine may carry an inherent risk, but equipping yourself with adequate knowledge about the vintage you’re interested in can mitigate this. For example, in a Christie’s auction featuring Jones-diplomat, there were several bottles of old Bordeaux on offer. We sought expert advice from O’Connor, a distinguished authority on this wine region. He forewarned us about the issues old vintages might confront. According to him, wines made before the war could potentially taste questionable. He mentioned that the 1928 Bordeaux was one of the best vintages the 20th century experienced. However, he also warned that the years 1933 and 1934 were extremely difficult, hinting that the wines produced during the 1930s might not meet high standards.

Notwithstanding the potential risk when acquiring old wine in auctions, many believe the rewards outweigh the risks. Many consider tasting aged wine akin to sipping history. Will Lyons, a wine columnist for The Sunday Times, marvels at the evolution of fine wine as it ages and develops in the bottle, welcoming a host of tertiary characteristics that younger wines lack. While he acknowledges the risks associated with old wines, Lyons expresses his fascination for the marvelous transformation time manages to bestow on Bordeaux. Lyons describes the matured wine as exhibiting a raisin-y, nutty, and caramelized character and the texture being as light as a feather.

We’ve noticed a trend in year-end auctions, especially at Christie’s, where a plethora of bottles from recent vintages are available for immediate consumption or as additions to cellars for future openings. Regardless of the wine bottle, particularly those seasoned with years, it is crucial to remember that the experience could swing both ways. As the Eagles conveyed years ago in “Hotel California,” it could either be an utter disappointment or a heavenly experience. This sentiment is echoed by Krebiehl, who advises having a few backup bottles handy in case the experience gravitates towards the former.

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Numerous factors determine the taste of your favorite wine, and the climate in which the grapes are grown is one of the biggest. Thanks to climate change — specifically rising temperatures in growing regions — you might soon find that your preferred bottle of red, white, rosé, or orange tastes different or doesn’t exist anymore at all.

In an interview with Wine Enthusiast, Elizabeth M. Wolkovich, associate professor of Forest & Conservation Sciences at the University of British Columbia in Vancouver, Canada, explains the precarious balance between the beautifully complex taste of wine and the ease with which it can be irreversibly changed: “Wine grapes are extremely sensitive to climate and this is much of what makes wine so exquisite. But it also means wine grapes are extremely sensitive to climate change.”

Temperature changes can affect the levels of sugar in wine grapes when harvested, which affects both the wine’s character and its final alcohol content. Extreme changes in temperature can effectively kill the grapes, meaning they won’t get harvested at all. In the longer term, climate change will affect which grape varieties can be grown where, not just changing the flavor of your favorite wine but its actual composition, too.

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An age-old saying in the winemaking world claims that while poor grapes cannot produce great wine, great grapes can certainly yield poor wine. The process of attaining superior grapes includes planting a variety that is compatible with the climate of the vineyard and allowing the grapes to fully ripen before harvesting them. When faced with higher temperatures introduced by climate change, this process is expedited and the anthocyanins and tannins which are crucial for a wine’s color and complexity are not fully developed. Excessive heat can also desiccate the grapes, which may be desirable if intentional, as seen in Italian Amarone wines, but otherwise suppresses acidity and flavor development.

In severe cases, conventional varieties may be displaced from their renowned growth regions as a result of climate change. Heat-tolerant varieties such as Shiraz and Tempranillo are currently being experimented with in Napa Valley in anticipation of a time when Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay cannot survive. Future weather conditions may necessitate the use of grape varieties that can withstand extreme heat and scarce water supply. This includes the minerally, salty, and citrusy Assyrtiko that grows on the Greek island of Santorini, which may eventually become more prevalent throughout Europe and beyond. On the other hand, rising temperatures are unlocking potential for new vineyard regions, such as Southeast Britain which has recently become a celebrated wine producer, particularly noted for various types of sparkling wines.

However, climate change is not just about rising temperatures. It also leads to more occurrences of severe weather conditions, such as unexpected heavy rains, storms, hailstorms, and abrupt temperature fluctuations. Although these conditions have less direct impact on the flavor development of already growing grapes, they often lead to damaged grapes that are either waterlogged or overrun by fungus, mildew or other molds that thrive in high-moisture conditions. These conditions can indirectly alter a wine’s flavor just like heat. Consequently, winemakers may be compelled to plant new grape varieties that can better withstand moisture and the potential issues it can cause.

But too much water also literally waters down the grapes, reducing their juice content and concentration. If it’s harvest season and a storm or heavy rain is on its way, winemakers will rush out to pick the grapes, even if it’s early. This is because once watered down, there’s no time to restore the sugar levels, and the grapes — and any wine made from them — will be ruined.

Read the original article on Daily Meal.

Some people regard drinking wine as a simple comforting activity, unconcerned with specific rules such as the shape of the glass. They enjoy their wine at their preferred temperature and tend to stick to a few chosen kinds without stepping beyond their comfort zones. Others, however, see wine as a full sensory experience, relishing its delightful aromas and analyzing each flavor note in every sip. Regardless of which group you belong to, there’s an important aspect in wine drinking that can’t be ignored: the choice of material for the wine glass.

The optimal vessels for wine drinking are either crystal or glass as the materials do not influence the wine’s taste. The reason is not about appearing elitist, but rather for scientific reasons. Plastic and styrofoam cups, for example, are porous, leading to the absorption of chemicals from the vessel into the liquid. These chemicals can significantly change the taste and smell of the wine, potentially making it sour, bitter, or even akin to vinegar. Moreover, other options like metal and stainless steel tumblers may seem functional, but their thickness and shape can greatly mess with the aroma and flavor range of the wine.

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Whether you prefer drinking wine from a glass or crystal vessel ultimately boils down to personal preference. Glass offers the advantage of being non-porous, effectively imparting no odor or taste to the wine and is dishwasher-safe. Plus, it’s budget-friendly. That said, it’s not without its drawbacks. Many glass vessels have a rimmed lip for durability, but this isn’t a desired feature in a wine glass.

Instead, thin glasses, like those made of crystal, provide a rim with ideal thinness while remaining strong and durable. What’s more? Although most crystal vessels are more expensive and not dishwasher safe, there are some options made without lead, which means they can be put in the dishwasher. Overall, crystal is the superior option when it comes to aesthetics and durability, but it’s not always the most budget-friendly choice.

If you’re looking for an inexpensive, durable, dishwasher-friendly vessel, glass is your best bet. If a visually appealing and thin glass for optimum drinking quality is your preference, crystal is the way to go. Either way, selecting glass or crystal over plastic, styrofoam, or metal wine vessels is always worth the extra search effort.

Read the original article on Tasting Table.

A glass of red wine might complement a turkey dinner nicely, but even a slight amount can trigger headaches for certain individuals. The notorious “red wine headache” can kick in anywhere from 30 minutes to three hours following the consumption of just a small glass. According to a research published November 20 in the journal Scientific Reports, scientists from the University of California, Davis and the University of California, San Francisco believe they have identified the trigger.

[Related: Red wine’s composition is a mix of chemicals that can make some individuals feel awful.]

The group theorizes that a natural flavanol present in red wines can disrupt our body’s normal processing of alcohol, potentially leading to a headache. This flavanol, known as quercetin, can be found in several kinds of fruits and vegetables, including grapes. Although quercetin is regarded as a beneficial antioxidant and can even be ingested as a supplement, it might pose a problem when metabolized with alcohol.

“Once it enters your bloodstream, your body alters it into a different form referred to as quercetin glucuronide,” explains study co-author and UC Davis wine chemist Andrew Waterhouse in a statement. “This form inhibits the metabolism of alcohol.”

The end product is a build-up of a harmful substance known as acetaldehyde.

“Acetaldehyde is widely recognised as a damaging, irritant and inflammatory substance,” expressed Apramita Devi, a UC Davis microbiologist and co-author of the study. “It is scientifically accepted that elevated levels of acetaldehyde can result in symptoms such as facial redness, headaches and feelings of nausea.”

A drug namely, disulfiram, which is frequently prescribed to patients battling alcohol dependence as a deterrent for drinking, is known to trigger similar effects when alcohol is consumed. Disulfiram also leads to the accumulation of acetaldehyde resulting from alcohol consumption by interfering with a certain enzyme in the human body typically involved in its breakdown. It is estimated that close to 40% of the East Asian population possess enzymes capable of metabolizing alcohol that cause a build-up of acetaldehyde in their system.

“Our hypothesis is that susceptible individuals who consume even moderate amounts of wine containing quercetin can experience headaches, especially if they have a pre-existing condition such as migraines or other primary headache disorders,” expressed Morris Levin, a neurologist at the University of California, San Francisco and co-author of the study. “We believe we are finally close to understanding this ancient conundrum. The succeeding step is to scientifically test this on individuals who experience these headaches. So, keep a lookout for updates.”

According to the team, sunlight increases the headache-causing flavanol in the grapes grown to make wine.

[Related: Can I be allergic to alcohol?]

“If you grow grapes with the clusters exposed, such as they do in the Napa Valley for their cabernets, you get much higher levels of quercetin. In some cases, it can be four to five times higher,” said Waterhouse.

Levels of quercetin can differ depending on how the wine is made, including skin contact during fermentation, the fining processes, and even aging.

The research advises that numerous uncertainties still exist regarding the origins of red wine migraines. Despite having a deeper comprehension of the biological mechanisms related to red wine headaches, it’s still unclear why some individuals are more susceptible than others. The team is conducting comparisons of red wines with high quercetin content such as shiraz, versus those with less, to examine their theory that quercetin is genuinely the trigger for red wine headaches. They’re also intrigued as to whether the enzymes of frequent red wine headache sufferers are more easily obstructed by flavanol, or if this demographic is more affected by the accumulation of the acetaldehyde poison.

“If our hypothesis proves correct, we’ll then have the means to begin addressing these significant queries,” said Waterhouse.