Searching for your next great bottle? Sicily, Greece, South Africa, and Lodi may have the answers. … [+] (Photo by DeAgostini/Getty Images)
Have you ever had a sommelier pour you an unexpectedly excellent wine? A white or red from an unknown region, something sparkling from outside of Champagne, or a weird but wonderful bottle from the far reaches of Eastern Europe?
In 2024, sommeliers are predicting a number of unexpected wine regions will step into the spotlight.
“We are starting to see wines come out of less traditional regions, whether newer to grape growing or places that haven’t shared their production worldwide in the past,” says Danielle Miller of
167 Raw Oyster Barin Charleston points out that. “For example, a favorite on our current list is a Cypriot wine with incredible complexity, and it’s a grape we had never heard of.”
Bertil Jean-Chronberg, an award-winning sommelier and owner of Bonde Fine Wine Shop, believes that in 2024, consumers will find themselves surprised by the wine regions coming to the forefront. He predicts, “They’ll unearth regions or states that have previously been snubbed or overlooked.” He goes on to say, “In the coming year, anticipate wines from Finger Lakes, Long Island, Vermont, Michigan, Canada, Armenia, Hungary, Japan, or Patagonia.”
If you’re ready to embark on a wine exploration journey, here are seven regions you should pay special attention to.
Nicholas Schulman, RPM Italian’s Director of Wine in Washington DC, makes a comparison between the effect White Lotus had on Sicily with Sideways’ influence on California Merlot. “For better or worse, the Hollywood effect on wine is irrefutable! HBO’s White Lotus Season 2 was a huge hit, resulting in a surge in Sicilian wine requests.” Schulman praises the attention being given to Sicilian wines, “Sicily’s active Volcano, Etna, is known to produce unique, exciting, terroir-driven, high energy wines that can compete with the best Burgundys and Barolos.”
“Etna has gradually been gaining world prestige, and now we’re seeing big players, like Gallo, entering the market,” says Daniel Beedle, assistant food, and beverage director at Kimpton The Forum Hotel. “I’ve noticed increased popularity in Sicilian reds and whites with some cellar age, showing that consumers view these wines as good investments.”
Sam Bogue, Flour + Water Hospitality Group’s beverage director, highlights how Sicilian reds have become a favourite among diners at the group’s California restaurants. He appreciates how Sicilian wines resonate with the Californian palate, evident in the popularity of variants from Mount Etna to Vittoria. He further encourages embracing Zibibbo and other Sicilian delights as a part of the country’s viticultural scene.
The general manager and wine director of Meli in Washington, DC, Danya Degen, notes the growing popularity of Greek wines. She recalls how customer tastes have evolved from asking for Santorini Assyrtiko to exploring the wines of Naoussa, Drama, and Crete. In the future, she anticipates a growing demand for a Kotsfali and Mandilari red blend from Crete, citing it as a potential successor to Côtes du Rhône.
Schulman links the rise in popularity of Greek wines to the increase in Greek and Mediterranean restaurants opening in the United States. He predicts a boom in Mediterranean wines driven by greater accessibility and the rising trend of Hellenic cuisine. This trend is particularly evident in the increased consumption of flavorful white Assyrtiko wines from Santorini and delectable savoury reds from Naoussa PDO, made from Xinomavro grapes.
Stephen Sherry, the wine director at Melanie Wine Bar, anticipates an increase in the popularity of quality wines from Washington State. He issues a reminder that Washington’s wines weren’t limited to just the big labels of Charles Smith and Chateau St Michelle seen on grocery store aisles. Small-scale producers such as Grammercy, Hedges, and Pursued by Bear were also making extraordinary wines comparable to the best from California.
Armenia is the oldest winemaking region in the world, but its industry suffered heavily under Soviet rule when Georgia was designated the winemaking center and Armenia was given brandy. However, in the past two decades, a dedicated group of producers has begun to rekindle the winemaking culture of the region. Expect to see excellent bottles starting to appear on wine lists, showcasing indigenous grape varieties such as Voskehat, Areni Noir, Tozot (which, if made correctly, drinks like Cru Beaujolais), and Kangun.
“Think about your top five regions,” recommends Ray Shoals, Sommelier at La Fête Wine Co. and founder of The Black Owned Wine Review. “You probably think of places like Champagne, Barolo, Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Napa. But I believe there are some amazing producers in South Africa that can rival many of these at a fraction of the cost!”
Sommelier, writer, and author Jim Clarke claims, “There is a lot of activity in South Africa. White wine drinkers are getting into Chenin Blanc. South Africa’s most-grown variety took a bigger portion of the South African pie within the U.S. market last year, proving that the grape’s ability to appeal equals Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc drinkers is being recognized and appreciated.”
Joseph Lapi, Wine Director for RPM Steak, RPM Italian, RPM Seafood in Chicago, notes, “Every dog has its day, and in 2024, the regions that provide outstanding value will excel.” As far as he’s concerned, it’s the Douro valley, a Portuguese region famous for its port. “The region’s steep slopes and hot climate are perfect for growing a variety of indigenous grape varieties, which are used to produce rich, full-bodied wines with strong fruit flavors and a distinct mineral quality. The combination of unique terroir, high-quality wines, reasonable prices, and growing popularity is why I believe Portugal will be the hot ticket in 2024.”
Jason Alexander, overseeing wine guidance for establishments in San Francisco called Che Fico and Che Fico Alimentari, shows interest in Lazio this year. He states, “The territory continues to progress with the emergence of a new set of winemakers who appreciate native grapes and exploit the distinct terrain of the region.” He elaborates, “Winemakers such as Andrea Occhipinti completely transform perceptions by using skin contact to add richness and texture to white grapes like Procanico while investigating the potential of dry red wines from Aleatico, which were previously recognized for their sweet red wines.”
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