Wine 1004

Learn more about which wines have the fewest calories this week. (Photo by Ken Ross)

Tis the season to make a fresh start.

And for many people, that means cutting back a bit on many things, including food, alcohol or spending.

That’s why I thought I would kick off the new year with a wine column devoted to low-calorie wines.

And if you’re taking a break from alcohol altogether this month, you can read all about no-alcohol wines next week.

So hopefully, these suggested wines this week and next week will come in handy for anyone turning over a new leaf.

Then it’s back to the grindstone and recommending more great wines the rest of the year.

Hope you enjoy.

HOW MANY GLASSES OF WINE IN A BOTTLE?

First, let’s get a few numbers out of the way.

A standard bottle of wine contains 750 milliliters or roughly 25 ounces of wine.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), one bottle of wine contains five glasses of wine.

However, many people, including myself, still believe that a bottle of wine contains four glasses of wine, which works out to 6.25 ounces per glass.

So below, you can find information about how many calories are in a 5-ounce glass and 6.25-ounce glass.

WHICH WINES HAVE THE FEWEST CALORIES?

In most cases, most wines contain roughly 570 to 650 calories per bottle, according to the USDA. The difference between 570 and 650 might not seem like a lot. But when most people only consume 2,000 to 2,700 calories per day, two glasses of wine can add up fast over the course of a meal.

So how many calories do different wines have in each glass? The USDA has information about the number of calories found in a 5-ounce glass of most wines. You can find those numbers below, along with the number of calories for the same wines for a 6.25-ounce glass.

There’s also another wine, Muller Thurgau, that weighs in at 113 calories, but this white wine grown primarily in Germany and Austria isn’t easily available in many American wine stores.

Fortunately, you should have no problem finding gamay wines. Some of the most popular red wines made with gamay grapes can be found in France’s Beaujolais region. This includes Beaujolais Nouveau, the red wine made with gamay grapes fermented for just a few weeks.

Two of my favorite white wines near the top of the list of low-calorie wines: Gewurztraminer (there are many great, affordable ones from the Alsace region of France) and Chenin Blanc (the grape used to make many great, dry white wines from the Vouvray region of France).

The next two wines on the list – sauvignon blanc and riesling – are also some of my favorite white wines. You can find some great, affordable sauvignon blancs from New Zealand. As for riesling, you can find delightful ones throughout the world, including ones made in Germany’s Mosel region, France’s Alsace region and Canada’s Niagara region.

Let me add that most winemakers don’t list how many calories are in each bottle of wine. Why? I suspect it’s because they know that most people don’t want to count calories while they’re drinking their favorite wine.

Wine’s more than just something you have with dinner. It’s a beautiful expression of a particular region’s soul, its character, its rich, dark, soil.

So just because some wines have fewer calories, that doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice anything to find great, distinct, delicious ones.

Cheers!

Wine Press by Ken Ross appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s Weekend section every Thursday.

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There are few things as polarizing as putting ice in your wine glass. But Martha Stewart has given a big win to the pro-ice side by revealing on “The Late Show with Stephen Colbert,” via YouTube, that she puts ice in her white wine. Although she used to think it was wrong, she met vintners while traveling through France and Italy who assured her that it was perfectly fine.

Ultimately, how you like drinking your wine is something only you can decide. If you like ice in your glass of sauvignon blanc, who are we to tell you no? But like everything else in life, there are upsides and downsides to choosing ice. For one, just because Stewart and some European vintners say that it’s okay doesn’t mean that everyone is going to be on the same page. The stigma around ice cubes in wine isn’t as strong as it used to be but not everyone is ready to embrace the trend just yet. Be prepared for a raised eyebrow or two if you make a habit of it.

Iced wine is great for when you forget to chill your wine or just bought the bottle and want to serve it right away. Ice will get you a colder glass of rose, perfect for a hot summer day. The downside is that the ice will melt, eventually watering the wine down, which will negatively affect the flavor. If it happens in cocktails; it happens with wine.

Read more: The 40 Absolute Best Cocktails That Feature Only 2 Ingredients

At times, diluting your wine may indeed be a good idea. If you find yourself at an event where the available wines are too sugary for you, the addition of some ice might reduce the sweetness to a level that is more to your liking. The same strategy can be applied to wine that has been open for several days. Although stale wine won’t cause health issues, the taste won’t be optimal. A bit of ice in your glass could potentially extend the life of the bottle before it needs to be discarded.

The majority of individuals would rather chill their wine using a different method to avoid watering it down. Getting your wine to the correct temperature is a breeze if you plan in advance. If you’re aiming to chill your wine without using ice, there are other wine tricks you could experiment with. However, adding ice to your wine is no longer the major no-no it once was, and Martha Stewart is leading the way in encouraging her followers to step away from the conventional approach.

See the original article on Tasting Table.

Four out of five Nonnas agree – an Italian meal just isn’t complete without a glass of vino. Wine is arguably as much a symbol of the old country as pasta or panettone, such a staple that much of Brooklyn is still dotted with grapevines planted by early Italian immigrants for at-home winemaking.

Apart from wine, the other cornerstone of Sunday dinner tends to be a big pot of marinara sauce, whether it’s being used as the base for a meat dish or simply accompanying a bowl of spaghetti. If you enjoy serving your loved ones hearty dishes powered by the

classic red sauce, offering your guests a wine that complements it beautifully is essential.

Your first guess might be to opt for an Italian red. This is a good start, but understanding the specific flavor notes of a good tomato sauce will help narrow down the options and find a wine pairing that enhances both the food and the drink.

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Generally, white wine pairs well with white sauces and red wine with red sauces. This association is not determined by color but rather by the nature of the sauces and wines. Light-bodied wines containing sufficient acidity to offset the richness but not strong enough to overpower the subtle flavors of the food complement butter- and cream-based sauces perfectly. On the other hand, red wines, which are typically fuller-bodied boasting a range of robust and varied flavors, are suited to pair with a flavorful tomato sauce. Tomato sauces can possess several tantalizing flavors such as sweetness, umami, fruitiness, herby, and tanginess, making them ideal for red wines.

Acidity is the most critical aspect of selecting wine, according to some connoisseurs. Since tomatoes are quite an acidic food, it’s beneficial to choose wines with similar acidity levels. This advice means you should steer clear of full-bodied reds with high tannin content or those aged in oak barrels, which result in heavy, woody flavors. Tannins give a bitter taste, creating a beautiful, complex bouquet of flavors in a glass of Bordeaux or Cabernet. However, they might create a clashing, discordant result with zesty, acidic tomato sauce, leaving neither tasting as good as it should.

While considering light-to-medium bodied tangy reds low in bitterness, there are a few varieties that fit in perfectly. Barbera, a sprightly, juicy Piedmontese red perfectly paired with tomato and garlic, is a favorite among experts. Chianti, the quintessential Tuscan red similar to Barbera, is high in acidity and characterized by more earthy, herbal, and even smoky flavors. If you prefer something drier, an Etna Rosso from the Sicilian peak, while zingy, imparts more earthy, bitter tastes that won’t overwhelm the tomato sauce’s vibrancy.

There isn’t a rule that confines you to Italian varieties. Pinot noir, known as a versatile match for various dishes, pairs well with tomatoes, particularly the “new world” pinots from California and Oregon. The robust, fruity flavor of Zinfandel is sufficient to pair with hearty tomato dishes like bolognese. Wines from the Rhône region, like Grenache and Syrah, are known for their balanced blend of fruitiness, complex minerals, and herbaceous notes. When matching wine with tomato sauce, there are ample options available. And if it requires testing a few different bottles to find your favorite, consider it a small sacrifice for (culinary) science.

Read the original article on Daily Meal.

If we had one small wish for the new year, it would be that sweet wines make a comeback. In a recent Oeno Files newsletter piece on Port, we lamented the fact that we’re no longer asked if we want a sweet wine with our dessert in restaurants; we are just offered cappuccino and espresso. This happens even in fine-dining establishments, which have a dedicated selection of by-the-glass sweet wines sharing space with the dessert menu. It’s no wonder that legacy sweet wine regions like Portugal’s Douro Valley (the home of Port) and Hungary’s Tokaj-Hegyalja (birthplace of Tokaj) are producing dry wines alongside their luscious, sweet offerings. Don’t get us wrong, we love a good dry Douro red or Hungarian Furmint, but we would love to see sweet wine regain its standing among wine lovers.

There is an unfortunate misconception among wine drinkers that wine with higher residual sugar (RS) is cheap and not to be taken seriously. Prior to the Prohibition, Americans brought their sweet tooth to the liquor store, and fortified or Port-style wines—what the Australians call “stickies”—reigned supreme. With the destruction of the United States wine industry under the Prohibition and the post-WWII shift toward fine, dry vino from France and Italy in the middle of the 20th century, sweet wine fell out of favor. Although there are bursts here and there of a comeback, usually fueled by sommeliers and wine journalists, we have not seen a sustained movement toward a return to the glory days of sweet wine.

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Some of the finest wines in the world are sweet. What sets a well-made option apart is its acidity, which keeps the sugar in check and keeps the wine from feeling overly cloying. Due to their high sugar content and high acidity, sweet wines age beautifully and will last for many years when properly cellared. And while we love these with dessert or even on their own at the end of a meal, we also like the idea of serving them with savory appetizers or main courses. Here are the main styles to look for:

Fortified: Neutral spirits or brandy are added to wine during fermentation, which kills the yeast and maintains a higher level of residual sugar. Fortified wines such as Port, Madeira, and Marsala have a higher sugar content than dry wine as well as a higher alcohol level.

Late Harvest: This is a specific way of producing wine where the grapes are left on the vine for an extended period, typically one to two months past the normal harvest time. This process allows the grapes to dry out, thus concentrating the sugar content within them.

Ice Wine: A distinctive form of wine made from grapes that have been frozen while still on the vine. Harvest often occurs as late as December or January. The freezing process results in the water inside the grapes freezing while the sugar does not. This leads to a sweeter wine with a concentrated flavor profile.

Passito: Passito refers to wines made from dried grapes. As the grapes dry, the sugar within is concentrated, producing a wine with a higher sugar content and increased alcohol level.

Botrytized: This term is associated with the gray mold known as Noble Rot or Botrytis cinerea. This mold dehydrates the grapes, increasing their fruit sugars and acids. The result is a wine with an intense, sweet flavor profile deriving from these more concentrated berries.

Fortified wine can originate from any location, but botrytized wines and ice wine rely on specific weather and climatic conditions, limiting their production to a few specialised regions. The term “passito,” a style of wine from Italy, may be familiar to those with a basic understanding of Italian. This article presents a selection of the world’s finest sweet wines.

The regions of Sauternes and Barsac, completely enclosed within Bordeaux, constitute about 2% of the area of the region. Yet, wine producers in these zones stress that they were awarded 27 grand crus in the renowned classification of 1855. The prevailing weather conditions, with foggy mornings and sunny afternoons, are conducive for the growth of Botrytis cinerea, bestowing upon the wines their rich texture and flavours of citrus and apricot preserves, caramelised pineapple and subtle traces of baking spices, with hints of beeswax and acacia honey.

The authorised grape varieties for these wines are Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. Typically, Semillon constitutes 80% of the grapes used in the final wine, with Sauvignon Blanc making up 20%, and a miniscule percentage of Muscadelle adding significant intensity to the aroma. Some recommended bottles come from Château d’Yquem, Château Rieussec, Château Climens, Château de Fargues, and Château Caillou.

These wines pair excellently with savoury dishes such as blue cheese, foie gras, fried chicken, grilled pork chops, and butternut squash risotto.

Dessert Pairings: Apple pie, peach pie, pear tart, crème brulée.

Made from botrytized Furmint, Harslevelu, and Muscat Blanc grapes, Tokaji Aszú was referred to as the “The King of wines, the wine of Kings” by Louis XIV. Unaffected grapes are harvested initially in September to produce the base wine, with the rest of the grapes left on the vine to fall under the influence of botrytis. These grapes shrink, concentrating their sugars until the later harvesting phase in late October or November. The botrytized grapes that are harvested are placed in large baskets known as puttony and then added to 136-liter barrels of base wine. The quantity of sweet grape baskets added to the base wine gives the Tokaji Aszú the Puttonyos rating of 5 or 6 Puttonyos, with 6 Puttonyos being the sweetest on the Puttonyos scale.

For a Tokaji Aszú wine to be designated as a 5 Puttonyos wine today, it needs to have a minimum of 120 grams per liter of residual sugar. A wine marked as 6 Puttonyos needs to contain at least 150 grams per liter of residual sugar. The Eszencia wine can be as sweet as 450 grams per liter and is quite the rarity. The flavor boasts dried apricots, canned pineapple, tropical fruits, and white blossoms, with a smooth palate feel and well-balanced acidity. Notable producers include Oremus, Royal Tokaji, Diznoko, Chateau Dereszla, and Patricius.

Savory Pairings: Gorgonzola, Stilton, or Cabrales cheese, foie gras, Peking Duck, Thai curries.

Dessert Pairings: Vanilla or dulce de leche ice cream, crème caramel, tarte tatin.

A style of sweet, fortified wine from the Douro Valley, Port is made with with five main red-grape varieties, but 80 varieties are allowed. Many Ports are “field” blends, with multiple varieties picked and vinified together. Here, the neutral spirit is known as aguardiente. Port is made in two main styles, Ruby and Tawny.

Ruby Ports are deep red to violet in color, with full texture and flavors of blackberry, cassis, black cherry, and notes of licorice, clove, and anise. Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Ports are from a single harvest year and are aged four to six years before bottling. Vintage Ports are made from the best wines from a single exceptional harvest. They are aged in wood for approximately two years prior to bottling and will continue to age in the bottle for many more years. The finest are from single estates called quintas; the label will include the producer’s name, quinta name, and vintage year. Vintage Ports come only from “declared” years, meaning they are not made every year. Recent standout vintages include 2020, 2017, 2016, 2014, and 2011. Excellent producers include Taylor-Fladgate, Fonseca, Croft, Quinta de la Rosa, Quinta de Noval, and Warre’s.

Savory Pairings: Pulled pork sandwiches, barbecued ribs, Stilton, Epoisses.

Dessert Pairings: Brownies, chocolate lava cake, pecan pie.

The name of tawny Port derives from the amber “tawny” hue it obtains from aging in barrels. This type of Port also gets a pleasant nutty or oxidative texture due to its prolonged stay in wood. There are four variations of Tawny Port: Tawny, Tawny Reserve, Tawny with an Indication of Age (10, 20, 30, or 40 years old) and Colheita. Only Colheita originates from a single year’s harvest and has to be wood-aged for a minimum of seven years. For the remaining three variations, a combination of different years’ harvests may be used. The complexity of Aged Tawnies is astounding, thanks to the extensive barrel aging. Recently, there have also been introductions of 50-year tawny Port into the market. We can anticipate complex flavors like dried fruits, nuts, and caramel balanced against a robust acidity. Some of our recommended choices include Graham’s, Kopke, Dow’s, Quinta do Vallado, and Quinta do Crasto.

Savory Pairings: Sauteed chicken with mushrooms, risotto with walnuts and blue cheese, roast suckling pig.

Dessert Pairings: Cheesecake, butter pecan ice cream, chocolate mousse.

The Italian winemaking method being used since the Roman Empire’s era involves the process of partially dehydrating grapes on their vines towards the end of the season. These grapes are then further dried on large screens either under the full sun or inside facilities equipped with good ventilation. The drying process can last from a few weeks to a maximum of six months. After drying, these grapes are prepped for fermentation. Among the two leading types of wine produced through this method are Vin Santo and Passito di Pantelleria.

Vin Santo, which translates to “holy wine,” hails from the region of Tuscany. This wine is produced using Trebbiano, Malvasia, and Sangiovese. If you have ever visited a restaurant in Florence, Siena, or any part of the Tuscan countryside and you received a glass of sweet wine after your meal, this might just be the wine you had. It may taste a bit “hot” on first taste, but it eventually brings out flavors of orange marmalade, honey, almond, hazelnut, and toffee. Famed producers of Vin Santo include Avignonesi, Capezzana, Marchese Antinori, and Isole e Olena.

For the savory pairing, try combining it with chicken cooked in peanut sauce or pasta mixed with walnut sauce. As for the dessert pairings, it can best be paired with biscotti, almond cookies, or pignoli cookies.

Passito di Pantelleria originates from a tiny island located near Sicily and is crafted from the Muscat of Alexandria grape, locally referred to as Zibibbo. It offers delightful tastes of preserved apricot, honeycomb, canned peach, and butterscotch. Some of the top bottles of Passito di Pantelleria are produced by Donnafugata Ben Rye, Carole Bouquet, Cantine Pellegrino, and Marco De Bartoli.

Suggested Savory Food Pairings: Pair it with chicken marsala, crunchy roast pork, or pasta mixed with blue cheese.

Best Dessert Pairings: It complements fig cookies, apple pie, or cheesecake.

Ice Wine is a product of Canada’s Niagara Peninsula, Germany, and various European countries. True to its name, Ice Wine is manufactured from grapes that have naturally frozen on the vine. Riesling and Gewürztraminer are primary choices in Europe, whereas Canada also incorporates Vidal, a white crossbred grape extensively cultivated in Canada and New York State. There are red variants available, made with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and other grapes. Every year, it is increasingly challenging to attain the low temperatures necessary for this style, given that the grapes must be naturally frozen on the vine and harvested when the weather is 20° F. The German versions are termed Eiswein. Regardless of where it’s made, a high-quality white ice wine includes flavors of apricot, peach, honey, and subtle baking-spice, along with pronounced acidity and a syrupy texture. Cabernet Franc–based ice wine presents flavors of baking spice, white chocolate, cherry, and blackberry. Some of the best Canadian producers comprise Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs, Peller Estates, and Mission Hill. The top German bottles are brought to you by Egon Müller, Schloss Johannisberg, Dr. Loosen, and Weingut Donnhoff.

Savory Pairings: Fried chicken, blue cheese, baked brie, caramelized onion quiche.

Dessert Pairings: Flan, cheesecake, rum raisin ice cream.

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Wine cellars are prone to the subtle issue of mold growth. The upkeep of any wine collection, whether it’s a Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, or a sparkling wine, demands focus on preventing indoor mold. Good care of your wine cellar starts with realizing the effect of humidity on mold formation, and knowing how to look for and eliminate mold before it touches your corked collection.

Humidity, a critical factor in the art of preserving wines, might unintentionally form an ideal atmosphere for mold spores. If humidity levels go over 70%, the extra moisture welcomes the presence of mold. The porous quality of the wine bottle’s cork can soak up this moisture, possibly reducing the quality of the wine. This delicate situation highlights the importance of careful control of humidity and routine checks in your wine haven.

“You should replace your 1-inch air filters at least every three months. Also, it’s crucial to use an air filter able to capture pollutants like dust, dirt, mold spores, bacteria, and viruses to boost your indoor air quality”, says Andy Fox, Filtration, and Indoor Air Quality Specialist at Filtrete™ MPR 1500. “Moreover, if you own pets, burn candles, or are carrying out renovation work in other parts of your home, you should think about changing your air filter even more frequently.”

Handle humidity. Wine cabinets and basement wine cellars have higher humidity levels than other parts of the house with optimal conditions ranging between 50-70%. This range ensures the corks remain in the best condition while keeping away from excessive moisture that fuels mold. Fox points out that “In the remainder of your house, the US EPA advises keeping humidity levels below 60% and ideally within the range of 30-50%. Sustaining appropriate humidity levels helps keep mold and mildew at bay. Moisture is a requirement for mold to grow. Hence, humidity levels need careful monitoring to reduce the risk of mold spreading and growing.”

Embrace the use of fans for air circulation. Gentle air circulation is vital to avoid the formation of humid pockets that might encourage mold growth. It’s therefore essential to ensure your space is well-ventilated.

Opt for mold-resistant materials. You should always go for paints and building materials that are designed to prevent mold growth.

Keep temperature fluctuations to a minimum. It’s essential to keep your cellar’s temperature steady, ideally within the 55-58°F (12-14°C) range. Any deviation from this range can increase the risk of mold development in your wine cellar space.

Carry out routine checks. Make sure you regularly check your cellar for any leaks, water damage, or early signs of mold infiltration. Furthermore, regular cleaning and dusting off the surfaces to remove possible mold spore sources is highly recommended. Remember, the key to effective mold prevention lies in early detection and swift remediation.

Photo by Emre Katmer on Unsplash

Safety first. Prioritize safety by wearing protective gear – gloves, a mask, and safety goggles – to minimize exposure to airborne mold spores during the cleaning process.

Isolate and remove affected items. If the spore concentration is localized, isolate the area to prevent further spread. Remove affected items for inspection and careful cleaning.

Dry clean affected areas. Begin with dry cleaning using a soft brush or cloth to eliminate loose fungal spores. Dispose of cleaning materials cautiously.

Use a natural cleaning solution.

– Scrub hard, non-porous surfaces using vinegar acetic acid. Vinegar’s natural acidity is an effective mold combatant and a great alternative to bleach.
– If you are dealing with stubborn black mold, hydrogen peroxide can be applied directly or mixed with water. Leave it to sit, then gently scrub.
– To prepare a natural antifungal solution, create a paste with baking soda and water. Apply, scrub and rinse to get rid of mold and odors.

Employ commercial cleaners or professional mold remediation services. Specialized mold cleaning products and bleach solutions can aid in preventing mold formation and infestation. For severe mold concerns, it is recommended to hire mold remediation experts.

The ‘activation’ process for carbon in a ‘charcoal’ filter results in numerous tiny pores within the carbon that trap many odors and VOC’s that can’t be captured by a standard filter. This was explained by Fox. The efficiency of the filter relies heavily on the amount of activated carbon used, as such, filters with a high volume of activated carbon, like the Filtrete™ MPR 1200 Odor Reduction Air Filter, are recommended. In this case, the activated carbon layer functions as an odor eliminator for pet smells, smoke, cooking, mildew and cleaning chemicals.

By maintaining a balance between humidity control, diligent cleaning, and preventive measures, you can prevent mold growth in your wine cellar. Take steps to ensure your wine collection remains impeccably preserved. Cheers!

Anthony Dias Blue, who was fondly known by his close associates as Andy, was indeed the world’s most widely recognized expert in the alcohol beverage industry. He passed away on Christmas Day at his residence in Pacific Palisades, California. This piece of news was courteously shared with the world by Amanda Blue.

In his illustrious career of more than 25 years, Andy held the position of Wine & Spirits Editor of Bon Appétit. This publication is known as America’s most extensive and most influential lifestyle magazine. From 1981 till 2006, he contributed an in-depth column in each issue. Then in 2007, Mr. Blue, along with his partner Meridith May, established a new magazine known as The Tasting Panel. This publication soon became the most widely subscribed among people involved in the beverage trade.

Being a man of many talents, Mr. Blue also wrote and voiced a one-minute “Lifestyle” radio segment. It has been on air on WCBS in New York since April 1978 and on KNX in Los Angeles since 1999. His exceptional work in the segment won him a James Beard Award in the year 2001.

Over his extended six-decade career, Mr. Blue wrote nine books, including six about wine, a comprehensive book about spirits that is still used as a college textbook, and two cookbooks he co-authored with his wife, Kathryn. One of these cookbooks, Thanksgiving Dinner, has remained a favorite resource since its release in 1990.

Amanda Blue courteously supplied some additional details.

In 1975, Mr. Blue pivoted from business management to magazine writing, becoming the Food & Wine Editor of the Diversion magazine as appointed by Stephen Birnbaum. He later participated in the establishment of the Food & Wine magazine. In 1979, the family decided to move to San Francisco, leading Mr. Blue to step down as West Coast Editor for Food & Wine. However, a casual encounter at the inaugural Gilroy Garlic Festival changed that.

He struck up a conversation with an older couple from Los Angeles. As it turned out, the woman was the Food Editor of Bon Appétit magazine. As they were about to part ways, she invited Mr. Blue to contribute an article for them, which led to over three hundred articles spanning twenty-five years. Mr. Blue said of that time, “This was an incredible time of growth and exploration in the world of wine and spirits. As I continued to learn, so did my readers.”

Courtesy of Amanda Blue

Never lacking some musical background, Andy’s preferences spanned from Earth Wind & Fire to Luther Vandross to his steadfast favorite Steely Dan, a passion he imparted to his offspring and their offspring as a significant, if not non-negotiable, manifestation of art and sentiment.

A chronic traveler, Andy was joyfully received in the top-notch wineries, distilleries, and eating places internationally where they often anticipated his appreciated judgment of their inventiveness. A grandparent to 9, Pasha, as he was fondly called by Olivia, Chloe, Francesca, Seneca, Ruthie, Dominic, Misha, Asher, and Luca, reveled in the love and achievement of his grandchildren.

Andy’s survivors include his wife of 56 years, Kathryn, and his four children. Hearty appreciation to his daughter, Amanda Blue, for her contribution in piecing together this tribute article for her father. He will be deeply missed.

After walking around their Harlem neighborhood and realizing there wasn’t a place to buy good wine, Pascal and Daneen Lewis came up with a bold plan: to open their own wine shop.

“We’ve lived in the neighborhood for close to 30 years and we never really found a place that we liked buying wine in. We would travel downtown,” Daneen, co-owner of Harlem Wine Gallery, told NowThis News. “Being very active in our community, we were like, ‘Wait, why are we leaving our neighborhood to go buy wine that we want to drink? We should have a shop!’”

Pascal and Daneen sprung into action shortly after that. The couple did not have prior experience in the wine world, but they took classes and attended the Wine Spirits Education Trust to learn everything they could about the industry.

“We kind of naively just jumped into it,” Daneen said. “And now, seven years later, here we are, and we love every second of it.”

A post shared by Harlem Wine Gallery (@harlemwine)

Harlem Wine Gallery is so much more than a wine shop. Pascal and Daneen want to engage with the community. According to Sprudge, the wine shop includes a large space in the back, which is often used for tastings and other events. Its calendar shows the gallery has offered events that merge wine with music and culture — and many of those events were free.

“Most people are intimidated [buying wine],” Pascal, co-owner of Harlem Wine Gallery, told NowThis News. “This space gave us an opportunity to have an educational space that would allow us to educate our community members [about wine and wine making].”

A post shared by Harlem Wine Gallery (@harlemwine)

What sets Harlem Wine Gallery apart is its unique variety. The establishment boasts an impressive collection of wines from Black-owned brands and created by Black winemakers, arguably the largest in New York City. They also carry wines made by women. According to the website, natural wines and New York State wines comprise a significant portion of their offerings.

Pascal observed a notable lack of representation in the industry. He believes his retail space could address this shortcoming by prominently featuring these wines. He emphasizes the need for support towards Black brands and Black winemakers, and his shop aims to contribute to this important uplift.

Looking ahead, the Lewises plan to engage with their community, working together with other small businesses in Harlem and nearby locales. They are motivated to broaden people’s understanding that cultivating wine grapes is a part of agriculture.

Daneen added that there’s a lot more knowledge to gain and many more milestones to achieve.

“It’s just a neverending journey of learning about wine,” she said.

T+L’s Wine & Spirits Editor shares his guide to Rome’s finest wine bars, from the old-school to the cutting-edge.

Camilla Glorioso

A good wine bar can provide the answers to many vital questions.

For instance, after my wife, Cecily, and I dropped off our daughter, Marie, at her dorm in

Rome

in the summer of 2022, because she had decided that going to college in the Eternal City seemed more appealing than doing the same in Newark, Delaware — go figure — we wandered aimlessly in the August heat for a span of time, then found ourselves sitting, somewhat emotionally unmoored, at a tiny wine bar near the Piazza Navona. Having your only child leave home is a weird experience. “What do we do now?” my wife asked me. The question pertained pretty much to our entire lives, but all I could think of to say was, “Have a glass of wine, I guess?”

Camilla Glorioso

Enoteca Il Piccolo, unexpectedly discovered one unusual moment, has quickly gained a spot among my favourites Roman vine bars. I later found it to also be a favourite among friends in the vinous industry for its primarily, though not entirely, selection of natural wines from petite producers and its authentic, un-touristy, deeply Roman ambience. The indoors area is small, dim and snug; outdoors is adorned with mismatched tables where, provided the temperature isn’t extreme like during our last summer visit, you can sit among a diverse crowd that seems to be a combination of characters from a 1950s monochromatic Italian film and those of a younger generation. Settle in for some bruschetta, mortadella, or olives. Opt for a simple glass or a bottle from the vast range on display on the inner wall, including a variety of Italian and international wines. Take some time to figure out your life.

Camilla Glorioso

The reality is that wine bars, or enoteche,

in Rome can be just about anything: long-established places like Il Piccolo with its basic menu of salumi, bruschetta, and paninis or more restaurant-like spots that preserve tradition; to those that increase the food ambition considerably while still catering a selection of smaller portions intended to be paired with wine. My friend Katie Parla, who is a cookbook author and has resided in Rome for a considerable time, addressed the latter phenomenon: “The enoteca used to be where you caught up with friends for a glass of wine or maybe grappa, along with perhaps a small bite. Now, increasingly, we are seeing enoteche managed by young teams with overseas training or a new-found conscious sentiment that recognizes the compatibility of high-quality cuisine with a wine bar.”

Related: How to Spend One Perfect Day in Rome

Camilla Glorioso

For me, the exemplar of this movement is RetroBottega, one of the hottest spots in Rome. A 10-minute walk or so from Il Piccolo, it’s an entirely different experience — and yet, also not. Despite its setting in a 16th-century town house, the design is distinctly modern: black barstools, blond wood, moody lighting. The ever-changing menu from chef-owners Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi is hyper-seasonal — on Mondays, when the place is closed, the staff often takes foraging trips to Lazio or Abruzzo.

Camilla Glorioso

On my last visit, I was thoroughly impressed by their spaghetti verde, aglio, pecorino e peperoncino. This dish consists of a bright green pasta (obtained from incorporating wild spinach and fresh garlic into the dough), garnished with slices of blazing red peperoncino and generous dozes of grated pecorino. A glass of Greco di Tufo from the iconic Quintodecimo producer from Campania complimented the dish perfectly. Although, a number of other selections from the extensive wine list would have aptly served the purpose as well. As expressed by Livia Alyson Careaga, a Rome resident and who also manages the Italian portfolio for an American wine importer, “The staff greatly values the notion that you’re there to explore and experience something new, delight in a distinct glass, even if the reason is simply to catch up with friends over some exquisite wine.”

Camilla Glorioso

For fans of natural wine, your haven is across the river in Trastevere. Give the crowded student bars a miss and instead direct your steps towards Latteria Trastevere. I’ll have to quote Katie Parla again on this one because this is where we last met for a drink. “Despite my general disinterest for drinking in Trastevere,” she said, “Latteria boasts one of the topmost wine lists in town, and it’s right there for everyone to see, nestled among numerous tourist spots.”

“Start with some bruschetta, add some mortadella, and maybe some olives. Choose a glass from the limited list, or a bottle from the indoors wall (the range is wide and includes both Italian and international choices). Figure out your life.”

The best thing to do is snag a wooden table outside, order something refreshing — I had a glass of Grillo from the Sicilian organic producer Masseria del Feudo — and accompany it with some of the cheeses that owner Antonio Cossu brings in from Sardinia, where he grew up. Add some beef tartare and (miracle of miracles, because they’re bizarrely rare in Italy) a fresh green salad, and you will achieve happiness. Parla said, “You can come here for a quick aperitivo, and before you know it you’ve hunkered down and are spending the whole night.” I can attest that this is true.

Camilla Glorioso

Back near Campo de’ Fiori, L’Angolo Divino is another do-not-miss. Owner Massimo Crippa’s encyclopedic knowledge of wine is manifested in his bar’s similarly encyclopedic list, which ranges from obscure low-intervention bottlings to classics and sought-after rarities. Inside, the old wooden-beam ceiling and brick walls make it feel like a historic wine cellar, and in some ways it is. Crippa’s grandfather founded the business in 1946 as a classic vino e oli — a place you’d go to fill jugs with olive oil and wine for the week. “These were very Roman places, a very old tradition,” Crippa said.

Related: 10 Facts About Rome’s Trevi Fountain

The last occasion I visited L’Angolo Divino, Crippa served me a trio of distinct orange wines — my preferred was a Barraco Altomore Grillo from Sicily. I paired it with a dish of olives, some mortadella, and fresh cheese from a farmer. I was curious about the name of the bar and asked Crippa. He explained, “Indeed, it’s due to our corner location at the angle of the streets. I am fond of the term divine as wine is a cultural and religious entity tracing back to the times of Jesus Christ. I like the thought of visitors experiencing a touch of that. Alternatively, many simply presume my name is Angolo.”

Camilla Glorioso

Perplexed, I asked Federico de Cesare Viola, my friend and editor of the Italian version of Food & Wine, how he would describe a Roman wine bar. He chuckled, “To be honest, there’s no singular definition — for Rome, any place could be a wine bar if one deems it as such.” This seemed to me an exclusively Italian way of definition: for instance, driving in Italy is just using a vehicle to journey from point A to point B; involvement of roads, laws, and speed limits is purely individual choice.

In sync with that mindset, I have to include Salumeria Roscioli as one of my top picks. Amongst other unique features, it holds the honor of being the sole establishment proposed to me both by wine industry experts and poets (the number of sommeliers recommending it is countless; the poet, however, was the late Mark Strand, who discovered it much ahead of any wine connoisseur).

Camilla Glorioso

Salumeria Roscioli trumps the line between a store brimming with remarkable artisanal salumi and cheeses, a wine bar, and a full-service eatery. Over the years, it has gained wide popularity, so booking a table in well advance is recommended. The food, especially pastas such as the oxtail ravioli and the cacio e pepe are unmissable treats. Start off with their made-in-house salame rosa, an retro version of mortadella, with pickled vegetables which you can enjoy while you explore the enormous, two-volume wine list developed by Maurizio Paparello. Pick from hundreds of options, but try to get the Stella di Campalto’s ethereal Rosso di Montalcino if available, or her even more tantalising Brunello, if cost isn’t a concern.

“It was a year since that instant when we recognised that our solitary child had departed home. My spouse and I found ourselves at Il Piccolo, pondering what to do. Things had changed, yet our family unit was as intact as ever.”

Note that Rimessa Roscioli is also nearby, it’s exceptionally wine-focused, and the delightful maritozzi pastries at neighbouring Roscioli Caffè are worth checking out. Their original bakery is just around the corner. The recently inaugurated Roscioli R-House, located in Trastevere, functions as a one-room hotel or a short-stay apartment. It’s a unique non-hotel accommodation for those seeking a place to stay overnight.

Camilla Glorioso

Don’t discount hotel bars while in Rome, either. First — I’ll admit it — sometimes the desire for a great cocktail wins out over the need for wine. In those instances, you’d be remiss not heading to the fairly fabulous Stravinskij Bar, in the oasis-like courtyard of the Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte Hotel. The hotel is just off the Piazza del Popolo, which typically means mobs of visitors; at Stravinskij, though, you are serenely unaware of the madding crowds, a sensation not in the least lessened by the bar’s Roman G&T, accented with celery shrub, sage, and black pepper.

Camilla Glorioso

But for wine, and some of the most stunning sunset views in the city, head to the Mater Terrae Bistrot Bar on top of the Bio Hotel Raphaël, a Relais & Châteaux property in the historic center where my wife and I took our daughter for a drink, a year after dropping her off at school that first summer. She was about to start her sophomore year, sharing an apartment with friends and embracing life as a student in Rome.

Just as its name illustrates, Bio Hotel Raphaël is a sanctuary for everything organic, from its facade overrun with vine to a menu that is filled with vegetarian and vegan options, right down to their wine selection at the bar and restaurant which is filled with organic and biodynamic wines. Spearheaded by the young sommelier, Anna Spanu, her guidance throughout the wine program is impeccable. On her recommendation, we had the pleasure of indulging in a bottle of Sergio Mottura’s delightful Poggio della Costa white from Umbria. Our experience was beautifully concluded with a glass of Buca delle Canne, a rather rare dessert wine from the natural wine producer, La Stoppa. Its amber sweetness was the perfect companion to taking in the views of Rome’s rooftops.

Camilla Glorioso

A year has passed since there was that abrupt realization that our only child had moved away from home, and my wife and I were sat in Il Piccolo, overwhelmed by bewilderment as to what should come next for us. Everything was changed, yet it felt like we were still a family, just as we have always been.

The original version of this narrative was published in the December 2023/January 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure, under the heading “In Vino Veritas”.

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Read the original article on Travel & Leisure.

Dried beans can seem daunting to prepare if you are unsure of the correct method. You might believe that hard pintos or chickpeas can be thrown into a pot and left to boil, but the truth is that creating a perfectly cooked bean is much more intricate. Buying the freshest legumes you can, soaking them for the right amount of time, and correctly seasoning them are all crucial steps. But it’s also important to understand which ingredients can be added during cooking and which should be left out. Despite the myriad ways to flavour these starchy and subtly tasting seeds, it’s best to avoid wine or any other acidic ingredients. Whether it’s red, white, or rosé, wine is a liquid you should never use to simmer beans.

Surprisingly, despite their tough exterior, beans are quite delicate. Legumes react to changes in pH levels – in an alkaline environment, their cell walls start to break down quickly. But in acidic conditions the opposite occurs as acid prevents pectin in the skins from dissolving and causes them to tighten, inhibiting water absorption. Consequently, you should avoid boiling or braising beans in a highly acidic solution such as wine.

Read more: 20 Popular Canned Soups, Ranked Worst To Best

Now, it might sound like a contradiction, but beans and acidic ingredients can be used together—they just need to meet at the right time. Rather than worrying about dried legumes that aren’t cooking—and thus softening—quickly enough, try adding wine towards the end of the cooking process. Once the bean skins have softened and the insides have turned creamy, you can add a splash of wine to your recipe without negatively affecting taste or cooking time. Alternatively, you can cook an acidic, wine-heavy sauce separately from the legumes and combine them just before serving.

Another thing to bear in mind is that when it comes to canned beans, none of these rules apply. Since cans of cannellinis, lentils, and the like will already be cooked, wine can be incorporated at any time during the dish making process. Naturally, it’s worth remembering that it will take some time for the alcohol to reduce.

If you aren’t totally convinced about cooking beans with wine, but want to impart depth, look to other flavorful cooking liquids. Water that’s been liberally seasoned with salt is a good place to start, however, you can easily do better. Add vegetable scraps, herbs, chili flakes, lardons, or a cheese rind to create a rich broth. Likewise, a ready-made stock (vegetable, seafood, beef, or poultry) will infuse all sorts of earthy, savory, and vegetal flavors into beans. That said, a touch of wine can still help round out flavors — just saying!

Read the original article on Tasting Table.

Discover the when, why, and how to use this straightforward and costless method.

Every couple of years, I find a desire within me to broaden my wine knowledge, both for my professional life as a food writer and editor, and simply for my own enjoyment. This leads me to participating in classes, tastings, self-study on wine, visiting vineyards when possible, and purchasing new bottles to sample. During this journey, I stumbled upon a straightforward technique that can enhance the quality of many types of wine: decanting.

The act of decanting may seem ostentatious, but it is merely transferring wine from its original bottle into a different container. A special decanter isn’t even necessary (more details on this further on). This practice provides several benefits to the aroma, flavor, and even the texture of the wine. However, one must tread carefully, as decanting doesn’t always prove advantageous.

To learn more about why, when, and how to decant wine, I talked to Julia Burke, a wine buyer and events and education manager at Flatiron Wines in New York City, whom I first met when I took a class she taught about (extremely delicious) Pacific Northwest wines. Read on for the details.

According to Burke, there are three reasons to decant your wine: to aerate the wine and unlock its aromas and flavors, to separate any sediment that might be in the bottle, and because it’s fun.

Classic decanters are typically made of glass and are hourglass-shaped with a wider base than the top. These days, decanters come in all sorts of interesting shapes and styles.

“A decanter’s unique shape exposes wine to oxygen efficiently by creating a larger surface area than a wine glass or an opened bottle,” says Burke.

“If you are using a decanter to separate wine from sediment, ideally you can plan ahead and store the unopened wine bottle upright (rather than on its side) for 24 hours so that the sediment will settle at the bottom of the bottle and it’s relatively easy to pour the wine into the decanter while leaving the sediment behind,” Burke advises.

“Regardless of the reason you’re decanting, once you open the bottle of wine you wish to decant, it’s crucial to work slowly and carefully—you don’t wish to kick up the sediment or spill any of that precious wine! Pour the wine into the decanter, tilting the decanter and keeping the bottom of the wine bottle as low as possible so the sediment stays at the bottom.”

Burke adds that while most individuals will serve wine from the decanter, others like to pour the wine back into the bottle so they can serve it from the original bottle. “If you’re confident you can do that without losing any, go for it,” she says.

After you’re done with your decanted wine, Burke suggests cleaning your decanter thoroughly and storing it covered so it doesn’t collect dust. There are bendable cleaners that assist in cleaning decanters with hard-to-reach spots.

“Definitely not,” says Burke. “I rarely decant wines under $20, because there aren’t usually enough layers of aroma and flavor complexity to justify the extra step. I don’t decant inexpensive sparkling wines. And this is the most important rule: I don’t decant very old wines unless the producer knows what vintage I’m drinking and recommends it. Over-exposure to oxygen for a fragile, delicate old wine can shut it down—for good.”

When in doubt, Burke recommends talking to the experts at your local wine shop, the producer who made the wine, or another trusted wine professional for guidance about the specific wine.

If you want to experiment with decanting but don’t want to invest in a decanter, you have options. “I have always had decent results pouring wine from one large glass into another, or pouring it into a pitcher,” says Burke.

“For a more subtle effect where I’m just ‘waking up’ the wine a bit, I just pour a glass out of the bottle and then let the bottle sit out with a few ounces removed so the fill line is lower.”

As for the trend of using a blender to aerate wine by hyper-decanting it, Burke isn’t sold. “I wouldn’t use a blender, but I’m not Connor Roy,” she jokes.

Once you’ve decanted a wine, the amount of time you’ll want to wait before drinking it depends on the wine and the reasons for decanting, says Burke.

“If you just want to remove sediment, the wine will be ready to serve once in the decanter,” she says. “If you are trying to aerate the wine, 20 to 30 minutes does wonders for the vast majority of decantable wines. In most cases the benefits start to dwindle after about an hour, or two hours for the most dense red wines, and the risk of over-decanting begins to rise after that.”

Burke cautions that you can’t leave wine in a decanter indefinitely, or it will turn into vinegar. “If someone tells you they decanted a wine for three days, be wary,” she says. Ask your local wine shop for guidance if you’re unsure about how long to decant a specific wine.

With an initial investment in a decanter or simply by using a pitcher you already have, you can vastly improve the flavor of some wines without spending an extra cent. Decanting also helps remove sediment that can gather at the bottom of a wine bottle. When in doubt, check with your local wine purveyor about whether a specific bottle of wine should be decanted. Now go forth and unleash your inner wine snob on your family and friends—they’ll no doubt be thrilled to hear everything you’ve learned about decanting, or at least they’ll be happy to drink nice decanted wine with you.

Read the original article on Simply Recipes.