Wine 1020

This Rhone-style blend is a low-intervention wine that lets the fruit sing

Cormorant 2021 Preston Vineyard, Sonoma County

This is a medium-bodied Rhône-style blend of 64 percent Grenache Blanc and the remainder Marsanne, made from certified organic grapes sourced from the Preston Vineyard, at the far end of Dry Creek Valley. The Dry Creek Valley AVA is about 25 miles north of the Russian River Valley AVA.

UC-Davis grad and veteran winemaker Charlie Gilmore started Cormorant Cellars in 2018 and first made this blend in 2021, using low-intervention methods (ambient yeast; no filter or fining) that allow the fruit to shine and sing. Made with an old-school, Old World sensibility, the wine is co-fermented in a combination of seven-year-old and once-used barrels.

Offering more subtlety than showiness, this wine still exudes a unique character: think tart green and yellow fruits from the orchard – think cherry and plum – with dashes of cooked Meyer lemon, quince, and a savory herbal undertone.

“I’ve always held quite a liking for the whites from the Rhône Valley. They intrigued me with their structure and mouthfeel. With this blend of Grenache Blanc/Marsanne, my objective was to craft a wine that balanced good structure with a bright freshness,” said Gilmore. He went on to note that while Grenache Blanc has the potential to exhibit a heavy or bitter mouthfeel, harvesting the fruit at the right moment was crucial. In this case, he appears to have nailed it.

The label features pacific crested cormorants, coastal birds that Gilmore and his father spent countless hours observing during family excursions to the Monterey coast during his childhood. The wine retails at $27, with 205 cases produced.

But why stop at merely recommending this wine? Let’s ramp up this recommendation by suggesting a “pairing of the month.” I paired it with a roasted sweet corn risotto with shrimp, paired with steamed asparagus on the side. Given an evening that almost assures that spring is nigh but still carries a crisp chill that calls for a hearty meal, I could not have chosen a more fitting pair.

Sweet corn risotto with shrimp is an excellent match with this Rhone-style wine from Cormorant.

How to make:

· Make your favorite risotto recipe, browning the pot with both garlic and shallots.

· More shallots in either a roasting pan or a cast-iron skillet with olive oil and corn kernels (frozen is OK when fresh corn is out of season); roast until the kernel brown slightly, but before they’re crunchy.

Prepare shrimp as you prefer: in this case, the shrimp were sauteed in white wine and garlic, but you also have the option to pan roast them with corn.

Steam asparagus, finish with a sprinkle of extra virgin olive oil and lemon and serve as a side dish. Alternatively, here’s a recipe you can modify from wyseguide.com.

A roundup of wine news, that this month includes orange trends, better bottles, wine digs and spills, and lots of ways to sip through the eclipse.

March’s wine news combined the new, the old, the orange and the sun.

PROVENCE GETS [MORE] STAR POWER. George and Amal Clooney will join the ranks of super-rich superstars making wine in southern France, joining the likes of Brad Pitt (who released wine under the Miraval label with former wife Angelina Jolie), filmmaker George Lucas at Château Margüi, NBA stars Tony Parker and Carmelo Anthony (respectively, Chateau La Mascaronne and The Seventh Estate), and John Malkovich at Les Quelles de la Coste. The Clooneys bought the Provence estate Domaine du Canadel in 2021, and will release two wines under the Coteaux Varois en Provence Appellation d’Origine Contrôllée (AOC). The estates red and white grapes were previously sold to a cooperative and Wine Spectator reports the Clooneys will start from scratch with new branding for their upcoming rose and white bottlings.

TRENDS LOOKOUT. Each year the wine trade heads to Dusseldorf, Germany for ProWein, one of Europe’s largest wine fairs, where old standbys, current upstarts and new trends are on display. This year, Drinks Business, the UK trade publication reports on low-cal/low-al beverages were trending high, as were orange-hued drinks such as Mionetto Aperitivo and a spritz product by the Cava brand, Hola; and Glitter Spritz Aperitivo, from the Flaschenpost Gin brand.

Lightweight bottles are getting attention and gaining approval—a big move toward sustainability, as it’s reported that the bottle weight comprises at least 56% of the carbon footprint of wine, with glass contributing 85% of that (more info here from the Spanish GrupoARCE).

DB reports Albariño is trending (again!) With its spiritual home in Spain’s Rías Baixas, where 90% of vineyards are planted to the variety, new styles are emerging, such as aged Albariño. But the wine’s rise in popularity is also sparked by its success in other wine regions, especially in the Southern Hemisphere. Well, hola (again) and ole!

SABOTAGE IN THE CELLAR. The latest act of violence against wine involved the loss of more than 6,600 cases of wine, as it was intentionally spilled from three tanks in the cellars of Cepa 21, an iconic winery in Spain’s Ribera del Duero region. The loss is valued at $2.7 million. You can see the chilling video of the vandal here.

ELSEWHERE, ‘DIGGING’ WINE. Archaeologists in France’s Rhône Valley discovered the remains of an ancient winery near the town of Laveyron. While researchers are still studying the site, reports estimate the winery could date back to the first century A.D. Conducted by Institut National de Recherches Archéologiques Preventives, the dig dug up fragments of terracotta that would have been used to store wine in amphorae, and evidence of wood casks. The site is in a region known for ancient winemaking culture, notably by the Allobroges, a Gallic group, living between the Rhône river and the Alps during the Iron Age and the Roman period. Images of the dig, here, at myscience.org

ECLIPSE SIPS. Numerous wineries are planning special events around the upcoming total eclipse of the sun on April 8. In Hye, Texas, the Ron Yates Winery, saying they are in the “direct path of totality,” will host a day-long party of music, food games and wine. Solar Eclipse Party Farmhouse Vineyards in Texas will offer “The Observer,” a limited-edition GSM blend made with grapes harvested during the last total solar eclipse on August 21, 2017. Only 16 cases were produced and you have to be on site with a VIP ticket to sip. The Tiny Vineyards Wine Company in Sonoma made 78 cases of “Eclipse Malbec” to commemorate the event. You can order online, first-come, first served ($40 SRP). In New York’s Finger Lakes, the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail has created “Sips to the Eclipse,” an assembly of 10 wineries hosting events over the weekend preceding the eclipse. Likewise, the Seneca Lake Wine Trail has organized events on the 7th and 8th.

The Chinese Ministry of Commerce announced on Thursday that it would lift punitive tariffs on Australian exports.

Australia’s government has warned businesses against relying solely on China for their economic success after Beijing decided to scrap heavy tariffs on Australian wine exports this week.

Assistant Minister for Trade Tim Ayres said trade diversification was “absolutely critical” for Australian businesses and the government would be working with wine producers to “diversify their trade markets.”

Floridians will soon be able to buy giant bottles of wine – up to 15 liters in volume – under legislation signed into law Thursday by Gov. Ron DeSantis. 

The formidable 15-liter bottles, dubbed Nebuchadnezzars, should be on shelves when the law takes effect on July 1. 

Florida law has barred commercial sale of wine bottles larger than one gallon, unless it’s sold in reusable 5.16-gallon containers, or about 20 liters. But Nebuchadnezzars, tower-like bottles of wine, are sought after by some consumers for weddings, anniversaries or just bling. 

“There was really no public policy reason why we should have this (previous) regulation and this is a regulation that had been in place for many, many decades,” DeSantis said at a bill-signing ceremony in Wine Watch, a Fort Lauderdale wine shop. 

DeSantis added that “this is an example of us cutting unnecessary red tape,” while praising the persistence of state Rep. Chip LaMarca, the Fort Lauderdale Republican who’d been trying to get the measure (HB 583) through the Legislature since 2021. And former state Sen. Jeff Brandes, R-St. Petersburg, had carried a similar bill for years before that.

Cheers!DeSantis signs bill to allow sales of bigger bottles of wine

LaMarca said he’d confronted industry and consumer opponents to the bottle expansion. But he pointed to a symmetry of events that may have helped push this year’s bill across the finish line.

“This is an Italian-American owned business, an Italian-American governor and an Italian-American state representative. Wine is a big part of our culture, whether it’s the American side or the Italian side,” LaMarca said, who said he went to high school with Wine Watch owner Andrew Lampasone.

The new law also permits smaller big bottles, which include 4.5-liter, 6-liter, 9-liter, and 12-liter sizes.

Before pivoting his attention to wine, DeSantis extolled a couple of courtroom triumphs from the previous day, allowing him to throw some jabs at his favored targets: The news media and his political adversaries.

A federal tribunal composed of three judges upheld a congressional redistricting plan that DeSantis pushed through the Legislature in 2022. This plan had been challenged on the grounds of racial discrimination for eliminating a district in North Florida, which a Black Democrat had long held.

The tribunal ruled with a unanimous Agreement that opponents, which included Common Cause Florida and the state’s chapter of NAACP, did not substantiate that the state lawmakers acted out of racial malice. However, the judges decided not to determine whether DeSantis may have been motivated by race.

DeSantis applauded the ruling, countering critics who assumed the congressional plan would be rejected.

“There’s no shortage of people trying to offer analysis,” DeSantis stated. “However, when it comes down to it, their assumptions turn out to be baseless. … We were correct in asserting that the courts would uphold the constitutionality of (the map).”

The governor also reiterated his ‘gnashing of teeth’ rhetoric as he mocked those who criticized his decision to revoke the autonomous status of Walt Disney World two years prior. This punitive measure was taken in response to the company’s opposition to the state’s parental rights law, which detractors have labelled as the “Don’t Say Gay” law.

A resolution between Disney and the state was agreed upon this Wednesday, thus concluding two years of legal proceedings.

Under the deal, the company abandoned development agreements it made just before the state takeover. A comprehensive plan from 2020 will continue to be in effect, a provision helpful to the company, but the new DeSantis-backed board can still make changes to it.

“Right on parents’ rights, right on changing the local government and right that all the covenants and development agreements made at the 11th hour are null and void,” DeSantis said. “You saw a lot of gnashing of teeth last year. Now you don’t hear as much.”

John Kennedy is a reporter in the USA TODAY Network’s Florida Capital Bureau. He can be reached at jkennedy2@gannett.com, or on Twitter at @JKennedyReport.

During his free time, the former Michelin-starred Elizabeth’s wine director and sommelier based in Chicago, Derrick Westbrook, would likely be expected to unwind in similar high-end locations.

Westbrook confesses that after several years of service in restaurants, he relishes the unique perspective of being a fine dining guest. Nonetheless, Westbrook does not usually patronize venues boasting extensive assortments of classified Bordeaux or high-end steakhouses with a specialty in cult Napa cabs, when he’s off-duty.

“I’m probably most apt to be having wine or beer at the Bronzeville Winery,” declares Westbrook. “My judgment may be slightly skewed because I developed the wine list there.” Westbrook, however, finds Bronzeville to be an inviting and jovial location where he loves to bring friends, who may or may not know anything about wine.

Westbrook states as a principle, “I have a preference for places that are subtly intelligent. Places that prioritize excellent food and beverages.” He finds himself attracted to bars and restaurants with wine lists that “are well-considered and selected by someone who genuinely understands and is passionate about wine.” He prefers places that don’t require discussions about appellations or classifications, he adds.

Bronzeville showcases a unique and intelligent collection of wines. You might not find Champagne, but you could discover Thierry Tissot’s 2018 extra-dry rosé, a méthode traditionelle sparkling mix of gamay and mondeuse from Bugey in eastern France. Instead of usual Cabernet Sauvignon from California or France, there’s a vintage 1995 Quinta do Poço do Lobo from Bairrada, Portugal. There are numerous wines, “that wouldn’t typically be poured elsewhere,” states the sommelier. These are unique or aged wines that need attentive staff to showcase them consistently. Many of the wines are offered by the glass or in affordably priced flights. It’s a location that invites exploration of new and distinctive wines without much investment.

The chance to uncover small, family-run producers who are not part of mainstream or industrial beverage production attracts industry experts. This is conveyed by Dila Lee, a sake and spirits manager in Chicago for Komé Collective, which imports premium Japanese beverages.

Lee, with years of restaurant management experience in Chicago and San Francisco, now spends most of her time traveling across the country visiting restaurant accounts. In her spare time, she’s attracted to places where the beverages “narrate the tale of their origin and the people who create them,” and where “the staff are truly enthused about them.”

For more than twenty years, Webster’s Wine Bar has been a reliable spot for Chicago’s wine and beverage industry, according to Lee. The cozy Logan Square venue, which moved from its original Lincoln Park location in 2014, “is an industry playground,” adds Westbrook. Webster’s Wine Bar is where sommeliers go to immerse themselves in their craft. However, it’s not famous for grand-cru Burgundy or grande-marque Champagne, instead, it’s known for wines like Louis-Antoine Luyt’s El Mismo from Chile’s Maule Valley, and J.B. Becker’s Wallufer Walkenberg Spätlese Riesling from the Rheingau, a graceful wine produced by one of Germany’s most elusive winemakers.

BYOB nights are a common occurrence when beverage professionals gather, as shared by Eduard Seitan, a renowned sommelier and associate of One Off Hospitality. One Off Hospitality runs nine prestigious eateries in Chicago such as avec and Publican Quality Meats.

Seitan has been hosting routine BYOB dinners at Four Seasons Dumplings located in Bridgeport for some time now. This venue is his favorite spot for entertaining visitors or hanging out with buddies. Despite the lack of an enchanting ambiance, the place offers delectable, authentic Chinese cuisine. He mentions that it’s an exceptional chance to share exquisite bottles with individuals who are knowledgeable and also love good quality wines. The cost usually doesn’t exceed $25, which includes a hefty tip. His only demand is that each guest must bring a bottle of natural wine.

Natural wines are unquestionably loved by beverage professionals in Chicago. Seitan mentions that many of them have championed this for two decades. The natural wine trend that originally emerged in cities like New York, Paris, and San Francisco finally made its way to Chicago. Seitan adores the exciting and delicate umami flavors he finds in natural wines. Additionally, the growing fondness for these wines coincides with the beverage industry’s increasing endorsement of regenerative farming practices and least interventionist production techniques.

For those who think the above is too overbearing, Westbrook suggests trying Easy Does It located in Logan Square. It’s a natural wine bar and lounge that puts great emphasis on fun. They hold an open-jam session every Monday, have a DJ booth, and a raw-bar pop-up on the patio on Sundays. “If you’re in search of something funky, they truly embrace that style” he quotes. “For me, it’s always a pleasure to sample an array of these wines and exercise my brain.”

Easy Does It also serves an excellent selection of beer, cider, kombucha and cocktails. “Chicago’s dining scene has grown so much in the past decade,” says Lee. “It’s not just about really cool wine lists, but craft cocktails and beer, spirits and sake, too, but all done really well,” she says.

As a sake specialist, Lee favors Jinsei Motto, the sushi bar and izakaya housed in the CH Distillery (home to the Chicago icon, Jeppson’s Malört). Located in the West Loop, “it’s the largest by-the-glass sake program in Chicago by far,” says Lee, but more importantly, it’s a place where the list is “dynamic and constantly evolving,” a rare chance in America to catch up on the latest sake trends from Japan.

Bronzeville Winery (Bronzeville)

4420 S. Cottage Grove Ave., 872-244-7065, bronzevillewinery.com

Easy Does It (Logan Square)

2354 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-420-9463, easydoes.it

Four Seasons Dumplings (Bridgeport)

3205 S. Halsted St., 312-265-0568, 4seasonsdumpling.com

Jinsei Motto (West Loop)

564 W. Randolph St., 312-884-9602, jinseimotto.com

Webster’s Wine Bar (Logan Square)

2601 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-292-9463, websterwinebar.com

Apolonia (South Loop)

Apolonia is South Loop’s popular Mediterranean restaurant. Lee describes wine director Jelena Prodan’s wine list as “an open box” of these “extraordinary, hidden gems in the wine world.” There’s a vast selection of wines by the glass, “both classic and nouveau regions, in all kinds of styles and different producers” so “there’s something for everyone, wine nerds, the natty orange-wine crowd or even the fine-wine snobs,” Lee says.

2201 S. Michigan Ave., 312 363 2431, apoloniachicago.com

avec (River North)

Seitan, a father to a 2-year-old and a volunteer pilot for the charitable animal rescue organization Pilots N Paws, finds his evenings quieter than before. He spends his weekends indulging in brunch at his own dining place, avec River North, with his family and friends. He boasts of it as the city’s top brunch spot. Mimosas and bloody marys are a brunch favourite, yet Seitan also recommends avec’s unique and affordable wines; like the Portuguese red field blend, Casa de Mouraz’s Chibu, made with almost 20 different kinds of red and white grapes, or Tchotiashvilli Kisi, a Georgian orange wine which is fermented in qvevri, old amphorae.

141 W. Erie St., 312-736-1778, avecrestaurant.com

Miru (Lakeshore East)

Miru is a Japanese restaurant located on the 11th floor of the St. Regis Chicago, opened last spring. It boasts a 12-seat marble sushi bar. Kat Hawkins, its wine director, is lauded for her meticulous pairing of wine with Japanese dishes. Lee shares that ensuring the wine acts as the best supporting actor to these dishes and flavors is a challenge considering the subtlety of fresh ingredients and deeply flavored umami components inherent to Japanese cuisine.

401 E. Wacker Drive, 312-725-7811, mirurestaurant.com

Nine Bar (Chinatown)

Seitan loves this craft cocktail bar hidden behind the Chinatown mainstay Moon Palace Express. Lily Wang and her partner, Joe Briglio, run the second-generation enterprise, which her parents ran for over 30 years. It’s the kind of place where “everything about their cocktails just feels perfect, where sweetness and acidity, everything is just in balance,” Seitan says.

216 W. Cermak Rd., 312-225-4081, ninebarchicago.com

Printers Row Wine Shop (South Loop)

A neighborhood wine shop since 2004, Printers Row is also a beer and wine bar specializing in low-intervention wines, unique spirits and local craft beer. “It’s one of the places I recommend the most,” says Westbrook. “The wine list is really cool, it’s unpretentious and homey, but you’re going to find really dope stuff,” including some “unique wines from Central and Eastern Europe that I love.”

719 S. Dearborn St., 312-663-9314, printersrowwine.com

Proxi (West Loop)

Proxi is a culinary tribute by Chef Andrew Zimmerman to the street foods he has encountered on his journey. The focus is particularly on Wine Director Alex Ring’s beverage menu characterized as “diverse yet tightly curated” which includes wine, craft cocktails, beer, and sake. This borderless cuisine provides an extraordinary chance to pair and experience a versatile range of unexpected flavor combinations.

565 W Randolph St., 312-466-1950, proxichicago.com

Soif (Logan Square)

The “speakeasy-like wine bar” Soif, is hidden in a basement that can be accessed via an unmarked staircase in its sister restaurant, the Roman cucina Testaccio, as per Seitan. The wine list predominantly features French wines and is surprisingly affordable, emphasizing small producers and natural wines.

2456 N. California Ave., 773-895-6558, soifchicago.com

Anna Lee Iijima is a freelance writer.

In a new bill, ready-to-drink pre-packaged cocktails could not exceed 8% ABV to be sold alongside beer and wine in the state of Alabama. (Dan Gleiter | dgleiter@pennlive.com)

MONTGOMERY — Sen. Bobby Singleton, D-Greensboro, reintroduced a bill recently that would permit the sale of ready-to-drink mixed spirits wherever beer and wine are sold, though this time, with a compromise.

Senate Bill 259 would allow for RTD spirits with an alcohol by volume of up to 8% to be sold in grocery stores, convenience stores, or wherever else beer and wine are sold. The bill would expand the availability of such drinks from less than 1,000 locations to more than 4,600 statewide.

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Great wines always make special occasions even more special.

That’s why I often recommend several great wines worth splurging on for the holidays every December.

But why wait until then to break out a great wine?

There are so many special occasions between now and then.

This month, there’s Easter.

Next month, there’s Passover.

And if you don’t celebrate either holiday, I’m sure there’s something worth celebrating soon.

In fact, I firmly believe that opening a great bottle of wine can be a special occasion itself.

So whatever the occasion, here are six great red wines for Easter or any special occasion.

Let me add that these are all outstanding wines I have tasted within the past three months.

And don’t get too hung up on which wines to pair with which foods.

Ham, turkey and duck (which are often served on Easter) all go well with many different types of red and white wines.

And if you’re specifically looking for kosher wines, I promise I will recommend several kosher wines before Passover begins on April 22.

Hope you enjoy.

2022 Seghesio Family Estates Sonoma County Zinfandel ($26 Suggested Retail Price)

Region: Sonoma County, California

Grapes: 100% zinfandel

Tasting notes: Red zinfandel wines from California often get overlooked as over-the-top high-alcohol wines. But when done right, these wines can be just as elegant as any California cabernet sauvignon. This particular gem has a bold array of subtle flavors, including hints of blackberry, cherry and toasted almonds.

2019 Renwood Ranch Estate Zinfandel Amador County ($28 SRP)

Region: Amador County, California

Grapes: 100% zinfandel

Tasting notes: Made with zinfandel grapes from California’s Amador County southeast of Sacramento, this delightful, opulent zin has many fascinating flavors, including hints of smoked cedar, dark chocolate, roasted almonds and cherries.

2022 Archery Summit Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($65 SRP)

Region: Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon

Grapes: 100% pinot noir

Tasting notes: Oregon’s Willamette Valley has a well-earned reputation for producing outstanding pinot noirs. This bright, lively pinot starts out slightly spicy but quickly takes on more soft, understated flavors, including a delicate blend of plums, cherries and roasted walnuts.

2016 Ramon Bilbao Mirto Rioja ($80 SRP)

Region: Rioja, Spain

Grapes: 100% tempranillo

Tasting notes: Elegant yet earthy flavors, including subtle hints of blackberry, roasted coffee beans, black licorice and dark chocolate that last at least half a minute after each taste. An outstanding Rioja ready to drink now.

2013 Pasqua Mai Dire Mai Amarone Della Valpolicella ($85 SRP)

Region: Amarone Della Valpolicella, Italy

Grapes: 65% corvina, 15% corvinone, 10% rondinella, 10% oseleta

Tasting notes: Red wines from Italy&#8217s legendary Amarone region consistently deliver outstanding, austere flavors mixed with beautiful hints of vibrant fruit notes, including ripe blackberries, cherry and cedar in this particular powerhouse of a wine from Italy’s historic Pasqua winery.

2020 Trapiche Iscay ($110 SRP)

Region: Mendoza, Argentina

Grapes: 50% malbec, 50% cabernet franc

Tasting notes: Bold, full-bodied Bordeaux-style blend that tastes like a combination of a powerful Argentinian malbec and a subtle French cabernet franc. Flavors include subtle hints of blueberries, blackberries, lavender and espresso. Absolutely outstanding.

Cheers!

Wine Press by Ken Ross

appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s Weekend section every Thursday.

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All the growth in American production is now in other states. Maybe the key to counteracting the industry’s slump is there too.

Wineries need to be closer to where consumers live.

A pleasant way to spend a few minutes (or hours if you’re deeply interested) is to check out the American Viticultural Area Map Explorer hosted by the Treasury Department’s Alcohol and Tobacco Trade and Tax Bureau, aka the TTB. The most dense congregation of these official wine regions — the more relaxed next of kin of France’s appellations d’origine contrôlée — are unsurprisingly located in California, which also boasts the most iconic one, the Napa Valley American Viticultural Area. However, most other states are starting to have them too.

The biggest appears to be the Ozark Mountains AVA, which covers about 55,000 square miles (142,000 square kilometers) in Arkansas, Missouri and Oklahoma; the smallest is reportedly the Cole Ranch AVA in California’s Mendocino County, which is less than a quarter of a square mile and is owned in its entirety by a guy named Mike. The oldest is the Augusta AVA in the western outskirts of St. Louis, which was established in June 1980, two years after the Treasury Department finalized the rule creating the designations and seven months before Napa Valley got the nod. The newest is the Contra Costa AVA in the eastern suburbs of San Francisco, established this month. There’s an Ulupalakua AVA on the island of Maui, a Texoma AVA on the Texas-Oklahoma border, a Tip of the Mitt AVA in Michigan and a Martha’s Vineyard AVA off the coast of Massachusetts. And so on.

Seaswept is a new Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio wine blend that boasts an 11.5 percent ABV.

Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio seem like two varietals that should have always hooked up and gotten together.

And now, they have, in Seaswept, an exciting new wine blend from Josh Cellars.

“We felt there was an opportunity to refresh the rules of wine by creating a crisp and easy-sipping wine,” says Wayne Donaldson, global head of production, Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, which owns Josh Cellars. “That’s why we decided to utilize California’s lightest white varietals, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.”

The two wine varietals complement each other beautifully, according to Donaldson. The Sauvignon Blanc contributes a crisp minerality and vibrant citrus aromatics, while the Pinot Grigio adds a softer, even cooling sensation. When blended together, they produce a light-bodied, refreshing wine that’s an ideal accompaniment to a summer daytime gathering with friends.”

The laid-back vibe is precisely what Josh Cellars aims to achieve with Seaswept. “This wine could sit well with other lively beverages that have gained popularity among the younger generation,” Donaldson explains. “We saw a chance to rewrite the wine rules by creating a crisp, smooth-sipping wine that can match other high-energy, social drinks that are currently in vogue.”

The grapes are all procured from the cooler regions of the Sacramento delta. “The cool nights and afternoon breezes provided perfect growing conditions, paired with access to varying soil types such as sand, clay, loam, granite, volcanic ash, seabed soil, and river-run gravel,” Donaldson elaborates.

Seaswept is particularly targeted at the younger demographic, adds Dan Kleinman, Chief Brand Officer at Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.

Josh Cellars carried out an exclusive Occasions Framework Study, involving over 25,000 participants, reveals an interesting revelation about the drinking preferences of the younger generation. The study suggests a stark difference in the energy and mood associated with their drinking activities.

Addressing this, Kleiman states, “If we plan on capturing the attention of Gen Z drinkers, particularly during their ‘hanging out’ moments, we must present alternatives that are both lively and enjoyable.” On the contrary, wine has always been considered formal and not at all reflecting these attributes, in the perspective of these young consumers.

Seems like Josh Cellars has a strategic plan to combat this perception. Kleiman informs that by banking on their approachable nature and innovative spirit, they aim to bring forth an experience through Seaswept that mirrors the simplicity and joy of beach day. This positions their new low-alcohol wine as an outdoor beverage of choice during warm seasons, closely aligning it with the likes of seltzer, RTD, or beer.

Kleiman expects this venture to broaden their customer base with younger wine aficionados, primarily since this wine actually resonates with the high-energy events typical of this generation.

“For example, Seaswept is presented in a way that resonates more with other beverage alcohol categories that emphasize refreshment, like spending the day at the beach or hanging out with friends in the afternoon,” says Kleiman.

Because Seaswept is “the ideal festival drink,” Josh Cellars is launching an extensive experiential tour at popular music festivals across the country. “This will keep pace and engage our target audience at their comfort zones,” says Kleiman.

Old grape vine in Rioja, Spain

The tiny, precious hands of the little girl were shaking as she clung to the trunk of a young Tempranillo grape vine. Her grandmother guided the dirt into the hole, securing the new vine’s place in their family’s lineage. The process, a time-honored tradition shared from grandmother to granddaughter, was both a journey through the past and an investment in the future. The girl appreciated the strength and gentleness in her grandmother’s weathered hands, a testament to years of laboring in the vineyard and nurturing her family. She aspired to inherit these superhero-like attributes, epitomized by her amazing grandmother.

Old vine in black and white

In 1882, the wine region of Rioja, Spain, witnessed a sudden rise in wine sales due to an unfortunate circumstance. The vineyards in France were severely affected by a crop pest, phylloxera, which led the French producers to turn to the Spanish wines of Rioja. Taking advantage of this situation, the families of Rioja increased the production of their beloved native Tempranillo red grape variety. The grandmother narrated these exciting times to her little granddaughter, sharing stories of their ancestors’ hard work finally gaining recognition. She also instilled hope of a brighter, prosperous future that wouldn’t be just a mere dream, but her granddaughter’s reality.

By the year 1893, the pest phylloxera had reached Rioja, attacking and feeding on the roots of the cherished Tempranillo grape vines. This had a dire impact, stunting the growth and killing some of the vines. With this devastating event, the hope for the region nosedived. A young lady of 18 years was left to herself as the lone guardian of their small vineyard following the death of her grandmother from immense stress. Faced with the likelihood of having the vineyard replaced with grain plantations by her parents, she pleaded to no avail for the preservation of a cherished vine she’d planted with her grandmother, her only vivid memory of time spent with her. A local young man, who’d shown interest in her for years, stepped in during this crisis to console her, eventually asking her to marry him and move to Madrid for a shot at better opportunities. Overcome by grief and disappointment, she accepted his proposal and went to Madrid, dousing the hope of ever returning home.

In the meantime, a man by the name of Ramón Bilbao from Etxebarri, a small town located around 60 miles north of Haro, the major town in Rioja, made the move to Haro to set up his own business. Risky as it was owing to the previous devastation from phylloxera, he decided to open a grain warehouse as well planting vines in the year 1914.

Entry into Ramón Bilbao estate

Following the death of Ramón in 1929, five years after the establishment of the winery Bodega Ramón Bilbao, his ambition was fulfilled by Enrique, his son. Enrique successfully continued his father’s legacy, turning Bodega Ramón Bilbao into a successful wine producer in Rioja which celebrated its 100th anniversary. The winery not only owned its vineyards, but also worked hand in hand with multiple-generation grape cultivators in the area to broaden their grape source base to a wide range of small plots. Notable among these are their 80 to over 90 year old Tempranillo grape vine plots. Their wine, Mirto, stands as the perfect showcase of this beautiful collaboration.

Harvesting the grape bunches by hand

The first vintage of Mirto was in 1999, when the technical and general director, Rodolfo Bastida, joined Bodega Ramón Bilbao. He had been walking through the vineyards with a local grower in the sub-region of Rioja Alta, discussing the 1999 vintage, and the grower said to him, “Año de mirto año de vino,” which translates into English, “year of myrtle, year of wine.” Then he pointed to all the myrtle plants growing on the edge of the plot. It is a local expression that means thriving myrtle plants are an excellent sign for the vines and when the myrtle is great, the wine will be great. So Rodolfo decided to make a 100% Tempranillo wine sourced from multiple old vine plots and call it Mirto and the 1999 Mirto was a lovely wine out of the gates and after many years of cellaring, still impresses.

Mirto is just one of the projects that Rodolfo is spearheading as Ramón Bilbao founded a winery in 2019 called Lalomba (translating to hill), which is devoted to the exploration of a single vineyard estate called Lalinde which is located on a hill in the most eastern sub-region named Rioja Oriental. A section of the vineyard makes an ultra-premium rosé wine that is a field blend of the local red Garnacha grape and the white Viura grape made from vines that are almost half a century old. It makes a concentrated rosé wine with lots of freshness and minerality that improves with age.

Rodolfo Bastida

Rodolfo, a Rioja native, stands as the third generation in his family to follow the path of winemaking. He feels a sense of completion in spending the greater part of his time in the vineyards, reminiscent of the 1800s when local winemakers resided amongst their vineyards. With the advent of professional wineries, a shift occurred. His grandfather, who like many others, spent his days in labs, wearing a white coat, rigorously testing samples to ensure the marketability of the wines. His father split his time between the lab and the vineyards, marking a resurgence of appreciation for winemaking as a symbiosis between tradition and technology.

The narrative shifts back a century, to a young woman who parted with her roots in Rioja during the late 1800s in pursuit of her destiny. By 1938, she was already a grandmother, a widow amidst the throes of the Spanish Civil War, left alone to fend for her daughter and granddaughter. In a desperate plea for help and connection, she seeks to journey back to her roots, sending word to her estranged parents through a friend headed to Rioja.

Returning to her childhood home, she is greeted by her parents who have revived their connection with the land, replanting their vineyards. Their actions speak volumes, as they take her through their emotions and day-to-day lives without exchanging a single word. The poignant moment arrives when the mother invites her daughter and granddaughter to plant grapevine saplings with her, welcoming them back into the cradle of family tradition without a word of reproach. On this day, forgiveness goes unsought.

The connective threads of these narratives weave through the vineyards that Rodolfo Bastida treads daily, shaping the wines he crafts for Bodega Ramón Bilbao. They are tales that commemorate the generations who came before him while driving his mission to honor their stories.

Lineup of Ramón Bilbao Mirto wines

Lalomba by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba rosé wine by Ramón Bilbao

2017 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: A blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura from the single vineyard estate named Lalinde. A stunning rosé with a pale pink color with highlights of copper with grapefruit and lemon zest aromas with creamy lemon meringue and candied violet flavors on the palate with bright acidity and intense minerality.

2022 Lalomba, Finca Lalinde, Monte Yerga, Rioja Oriental, Rioja, Spain: This unique rosé is a blend of 90% Garnacha and 10% Viura. It hails from Lalinde, a vineyard estate perched on the slopes of Yerga mountain range. The wine dazzles with its smoky minerality, an aromatic bouquet reminiscent of wildflowers, and delicious flavors of mixed berries and juicy, white peaches. It leaves a refreshing aftertaste, hinting at the sensation of wet river stones.

Mirto by Ramón Bilbao

1999 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: This complex wine is made entirely of Tempranillo. It is sourced from vineyards around the village of Villalba, near the town of Haro. These vines are approximately 70 years old. The nose is multi-layered, featuring smoldering cigar, fresh tobacco leaf, a touch of bacon fat, and broken earth. Your palate is greeted with rich blackberry flavors entwined with exotic spice, all smoothed out by very fine tannins.

2006 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Villalba, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: This variant also 100% Tempranillo and drawn from the same vineyards around Villalba village, only this time, the vines are closer to 80 years of age. The nose is delighted by beautiful fruit aromas tinged with hints of licorice and fresh herbs. The palate succumbs to the fleshy flavors of black cherry fruit coupled with a broad body.

2010 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Ábalos, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. It comes from plots in the village of Ábalos near the town of Haro with old vines around 80 years old. Wafting notes of espresso and cocoa nibs entice with its delicious aromas, plush texture, generous fruit flavors, and complex cigar boxes and tar notes.

2016 Ramón Bilbao ‘Mirto’ Cuzcurrita, Rioja Alta, Rioja, Spain: 100% Tempranillo. From plots in the village of Cuzcurrita near the town of Haro with old vines over 90 years old. An enchanting bouquet of violets on the nose with delectable blueberry tart flavors on the palate with very silky tannins that are finely sculpted and has a long, flavorful finish.