Wine 988

Bart Fawbush has faced his share of challenges building a boutique winery known for its unusual varietals.

Bartholomew Winery began in leased quarters in West Seattle and later moved to Kennewick, where it was one of the first wineries to join the Columbia Gardens wine village near the cable bridge.

Moving presented challenges as did opening in a new location just beginning to draw attention from the wine-drinking public.

Bartholomew is too small to secure a contract with a national beverage distributor. It relies almost exclusively on direct-to-customer sales in its tasting room.

Challenges aside, Bartholomew Winery is a profitable business with a growing wine club, Fawbush said. It produces about 3,000 cases annually and occasionally bottles small batches for third parties.

Amid a global downturn in demand for wine, it is the kind of success Washington wine industry leaders want to highlight.

Industry leaders who gathered for the recent annual WineVit conference in Tri-Cities say the industry needs to change its messaging.

WineVit, organized by the Washington Winegrowers Association, was held earlier in February and convened winemakers, growers, vendors and others.

Despite the prevailing chatter about a worldwide surplus of wine, falling demand, rivalry from craft beers and spirits, indifference from the younger generation, and the contemporary movement towards sobriety, it’s claimed that Washington’s $9.5 billion wine industry needs to shed its pessimistic outlook and celebrate its victories as it competes for a larger portion of a diminishing market.

Adam Schulz, the proprietor of the Incredible Bulk Wine Co. in Walla Walla, who presented during the state of the industry meeting, remarked, “The scent of desperation is reviled by people. It doesn’t assist in the marketing of wine.”

Admittedly, Washington’s Ste. Michelle Wine Estates canceled 40% of its grape contracts in 2023 and put a stop to production at its 14 Hands Winery in Prosser.

There are thousands of gallons of unsold bulk wine accumulating in storage tanks, impacting future output.

However, as officials point out, Washington should dedicate less attention to negativity and strive more for a larger piece of the market.

The Washington wine scene can benefit and grow from smaller wineries like Bartholomew, contributing to the goal of ‘a bottle of wine on every table’—which is the Washington Wine Association’s mantra.

Fawbush endorses this positive direction, provided it is accompanied by a genuine push to promote Washington wines.

When speaking about his own winery, he highlights how it remains small, flexible, and devoid of debt. It thrives through ongoing innovation and trying different things, he says. Varietals including Carmenere, Tannat, and Primitivo form part of his interesting lineup. These unique offerings in Washington aid in attracting patrons to his tasting rooms.

He avoids wine sampling in favor of forming relationships and educating customers about the wine they are consuming.

“When a customer is at the doorway, it’s crucial to seize that business opportunity as effectively as you can,” commented Fawbush.

Wine is a vital commodity for Washington.

Wine America estimated that the industry contributed $9.5 billion to Washington’s economy in 2022. It’s one of the key agricultural outputs of the state.

Wine supports 61,300 jobs, $4.1 billion in wages and generated $771 million in taxes, including $277 million for state and local governments.

Kristina Kelley, the new executive director of the Washington Wine Commission, understands the challenges but notes they’re not unique.

“I think the problems we have here in Washington are no different than any other wine region,” she said.

Negative headlines don’t help, she said.

“It is not, ‘Woe is Washington,” she said, referring to a headline in the Oct. 31, 2023 edition of Wine Spectator magazine that accompanied a column about the Ste. Michelle cutbacks.

Kelley anticipate several flat years for Washington wine, but is committed to promoting the state’s diverse wines. The bottle-on-every-table mission suits Washington’s diverse wines, grapes, styles and price ranges.

“There is an opportunity to be part of every occasion,” she said. “There is no need to go outside of Washington.”

She acknowledged there will be pain ahead as the industry adjusts, as seen with the Ste. Michelle contract cuts. Schulz, of Incredible Bulk, referred to it as “a state of imbalance.”

As per the influential 2024 State of the US Wine Industry Report compiled by Rob McMillan, the founder and Executive Vice President of the Silicon Valley Bank division of First Citizens Bank, there is an overwhelming surplus of vineyards at a national level.

The report mentions that the category under $12 saw demand dwindling, whereas the higher price ranges managed to keep their sales volumes in the positive territory.

McMillan’s forecast for 2024 suggests that premium winehouses will experience success; however, for high-production wineries, the future does not seem as promising.

According to the report, “There are two solutions to declining wine demand.”

We either work together to create a resonant message that positively influences consumption, or we use whatever means we have to increase efficiency in production, grape growing and marketing.

Kelley, of the Washington Wine Commission, embraces both.

The state has a close-knit wine community known for its cooperative spirit. And it is eager to expand its message to reach customers.

I do have a sense of optimism, she said.

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Chardonnay, is often described as the top of white grapes, and represents both familiarity and complexity in the field of wine. It’s the grape everyone thinks they know until they ask a sommelier: “I dislike Chardonnay, can I have a Chablis instead?” Just to clarify, they are the same grape.

This grape variety spreads across continents and climates, providing a range of flavours that can both puzzle and please even the most experienced wine enthusiasts. With the support of our reliable wine associates Perfect Cellar, we aim to unearth the mysteries and the histories, the effect of climate, the outcome of oak ageing and how to match it with food.

Moreover, Independent readers can apply the code INDYCHARDO25 at the time of paying to get a discount of 25 per cent off their initial order on all types of Chardonnays on the Perfect Cellar Website.

The history of Chardonnay starts in the vineyards of Burgundy, France, where it has been grown for many centuries. However, its international presence goes much beyond its European roots. Chardonnay has made its way to different wine regions around the world, from the cold hills of northern Burgundy to the sunny vineyards of Australia and California, making an impact on every terroir it visits.

Chardonnay is known for being adaptable, which is down to its unique ability to reflect its environment. The range of flavors it offers is as wide as its geographical distribution, a feature that some people may deem as unsettlingly flexible. In cooler climates, it exudes refreshing citrus notes, sharp green apples and a subtle chamomile hint, paired with a lighter body and sharper acidity. However, when grown in warmer climates, it radiates tropical fruit aromas like mangoes, melons and peaches. Its texture and flavor profile can alter significantly based on the climate it is grown in.

The correlation between climate and Chardonnay flavours can’t be underrated – it can be summarized as a “It’s intricate” relationship status. Cooler weather yields wines with a more pronounced acidity and subtle fruit flavors, while hotter climates bring out its voluptuous, full-bodied persona along with more mature fruit notes. Winemaking methods also modify Chardonnay’s features, especially the employment of oak and malolactic fermentation, creating additional layers of sophistication and thus, transforming Chardonnay into the wine world’s rendition of James Bond – slick, refined, and a trifle elusive.

In places like Southern Burgundy and certain parts of the New World, oak ageing is not uncommon. This technique infuses rich notes of sweet spice, vanilla and toasted oak, enhancing the complexity and depth of the wine. Malolactic fermentation, often combined with oak ageing, adds creamy textures and buttery notes, thereby upgrading the wine’s profile.

Now for the cool part – matching Chardonnay with food. Think of it as your dinner table’s secret weapon. Lighter styles, typical of cool-climate Chardonnays, are best served with seafood or fresh salads. Their sharp acidity balances out heavy sauces and uplifts the subtle flavors of the seafood. On the other end of the spectrum, the heavier versions, encapsulating their full body and creamy textures, are excellent when paired with heartier food items. They are like the social butterflies at a gathering, blending seamlessly with creamy seafood, flavorful curries or dishes with a tinge of spice. The oaky versions, flaunting distinct vanilla and butterscotch flavors, are a perfect match for creamy mushroom-based sauces, poultry, or even rabbit dishes.

In a world full of wine options, Chardonnay stands out as the grape with a split personality – and we wouldn’t have it any other way. With its rich history and multifaceted personality, it continues to captivate wine lovers worldwide. From the limestone soils of Chablis to the sun-kissed vineyards of California, each glass tells a story of terroir, climate and meticulous winemaking. Whether enjoyed on its own or paired with a gourmet meal, Chardonnay remains a timeless classic, forever evolving yet eternally cherished.

Oaky and hot climate: Planeta Chardonnay 2022 – £25.98 with discount code INDYCHARDO25

Dive into a glass of Planeta Chardonnay 2022, and you’re transported to the sun-soaked vineyards of Sicily. With its rich light gold hue, this wine flaunts its credentials from the get-go. On the nose, tropical aromas of mango and butter swirl elegantly, followed by a chorus of acacia. But it’s on the palate where this Chardonnay truly shines, delivering a medley of ripe peach, citrus zing and a subtle hint of minerals. The finish? Oh, it’s a crescendo of honey, cream, and just a touch of yeast. No wonder it snagged the Gold Medal at Merano Wine Hunter – this wine is Sicilian sunshine in a bottle.

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Sparkling: Michel Genet ‘MG BB Spirit’ Grand Cru Champagne NV – £35.21 with discount code INDYCHARDO25

Prepare to be dazzled by Michel Genet ‘MG BB Spirit’ Grand Cru Champagne NV – a Blanc de Blancs fit for royalty. With its shimmering gold yellow hue, this Champagne seduces the senses with aromas of freshly baked bread and pastries. On the palate, it’s a symphony of citrus, from zesty lemon to tangy tangerine, with a hint of grapefruit for good measure. But what truly sets this Champagne apart is its complex finish, boasting notes of cocoa and linseed oil that linger on the palate. At under £40, this Grand Cru gem is a steal – sip, savour, and prepare to be amazed.

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Non-oaky and light: Louis Michel Chablis 2022 – £26.21 with discount code INDYCHARDO25

Louis Michel Chablis 2022 is a ballet of flavours that pirouettes gracefully across the palate. With its pale lemon hue, this Chablis is a study in purity and precision. On the nose, citrus and stone fruit mingle effortlessly, while floral notes add a touch of whimsy. But it’s the palate where this wine truly shines, with flavours of apple, peach and lemon dancing delicately alongside hints of honey and spice. The finish? Medium-plus acidity and a mineral spice that leaves you craving an encore. It’s no wonder this Chablis earned 92 Points from Decanter – it’s elegance in a bottle.

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Oaky: Bonterra – The Roost Blue Heron Vineyards Chardonnay 2020 – £29 with discount code INDYCHARDO25

Bonterra – The Roost Blue Heron Vineyards Chardonnay 2020 is a California classic that’s as comforting as a warm hug. With its medium gold hue, this Chardonnay invites you in with aromas of lemon curd, butter and a hint of banana. On the palate, it’s a delightful blend of lemon drops, lime and cream, with just the right amount of acidity to keep things lively. The finish? A lingering symphony of baked apple, creme brulee and a touch of toffee and nutmeg. It’s like dessert in a glass – decadent, delicious, and utterly irresistible.

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Q. Can all styles of Chardonnay be found?

A. Yes, it’s true. Styles can range from sweet to sparkling, still, and even fortified.

Q. Can you explain what “Blanc de Blancs Champagne” means?

A. “White from the Whites.” It’s a white grape Champagne only. Meaning 100% Chardonnay.

For true vino-lovers, enjoy 50 per cent off this monthly wine subscription

In association with Perfect Cellar: The Independent works with Perfect Cellar to bring readers wine choices and will earn commission if readers choose to buy their wines via a link from this Independent.co.uk article.

Disneyland has announced the comprehensive menu for the 2024 Food & Wine Festival, a celebration of California’s food, drinks, notable people from the culinary world, and Disney characters in unique food-related costumes at Disney California Adventure.

The Food & Wine Festival at Disney California Adventure is scheduled to take place from March 1 to April 22. Well-known local, global, and Disney chefs will be available to share cooking methods and knowledge through food demonstrations, tastings, and special events.

The 2024 Food & Wine Fest will see the return of 10 festival market stalls presenting small dishes crafted from California-based ingredients. DCA eateries, food booths, as well as Downtown Disney restaurants will provide festival refreshments and meals.

The Food & Wine Fest’s Sip and Savor passes will be available once again this year. These let visitors buy a prepaid card charged with eight tabs for individual items at food and beverage stalls during the festival. Pricing for these Sip & Savor cards has not yet been announced by Disney. However, last year’s cost was $59, with a $5 price reduction for Magic Key annual passholders.

Fans of the classic Soarin’ Over California will get another chance to hang glide over Napa Valley, Monterey Bay and Redwood Creek when the classic version of the flight simulator ride returns during the food fest.

Here’s the menu lineup for the food booths and restaurants during DCA’s Food & Wine Festival.

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Drinking wine is supposed to be fun, and sommelier Marsha Wright couldn’t agree more.

“A lot of people think of sommeliers as stuffy, with the white cloth draped over their arm, trying to upsell you a $1,000 bottle of wine,” Wright said. “That’s not what it’s about. We like to have conversations, find out what you like. I make it fun.”

Wright is the corporate lead sommelier with DineAmic Hospitality, a group that currently has 14 restaurants in the city and suburbs. She works with their Greek brands — Violí in Oak Brook and Lyra in Chicago’s Fulton Market.

She said the job of a sommelier has evolved over the years. There’s a lot more to it than just selling wine on the restaurant floor to guests.

“Now it’s wine buying, it’s education, it’s meeting with my winemakers, taking trips, doing research, working with the culinary team,” she said. “That’s what I love about it.”

Her work with DineAmic involves creating and updating the wine list, making specials, education and more. She holds monthly food and wine tastings with the staff so they can pass informed recommendations along to the guests.

“I love sharing knowledge, especially with the staff since they’re the ones on the front lines,” she said. “When our staff tells someone that this wine pairs well with this food, they’re not just saying it, it’s because they’ve actually tasted it.”

She says her educational approach with staff and guests is to keep it basic.

“Just break it down so the guest can understand it with words like bright, acidic, minerality, fresh, lively,” she said. “You don’t have to say, ‘Oh, it has phenolic acidity to it.’ No one knows what that means.”

Wine dinners are one of her favorite ways to educate guests in a way that they’ll enjoy.

“They’re a great opportunity to taste, explore, kind of expand your palate. And you can introduce someone to thinking of food and wine together,” she said.

She works with the chef to plan the events, and they taste the wines together to craft the menu. Violí recently held their second wine dinner, which featured Caymus wines.

“It’s a collaborative effort, chef and ‘somm,’” Wright said. “Most places I’ve been, that isn’t normally what happens. But it’s food and wine, so let’s taste them together.”

She said they plan to make the wine dinners a fixture, with the next one scheduled for May with a rosé focus.

Wright isn’t just trying to change people’s perceptions about what a sommelier does, but also who can be one.

Recent research shows that less than a third of sommeliers identify as women. Only 11% of sommeliers are Black, which makes her a subset of a subset.

“I go to tastings with other ‘somms’ and it would all be men, and I’m usually the only African American in the room,” she said. “I started doing the research and the (representation) numbers were just frightening. There’s not a lot of us in what I do, or winemakers or CEOs at any of the companies.”

Wright said she hopes her example will help others realize that it’s a great job for anyone with a passion for wine.

“I think what a lot of it is is fear, because it is an industry dominated by white males and women can feel intimidated by that, just like any industry,” she said.

Wright got started in wine by, well, drinking it. She was working in accounting and finance about 25 years ago when she started reading a bunch of books and studying about what was in the glass she so frequently found in her hand.

“I realized, hey, I think I really like this,” she said.

She fully submerged herself in learning about wine and started taking classes. Before long she cashed in her 401(k) and jumped into wine full-time.

Wright started in retail at WineStyles in Naperville, quickly moving up to being in charge of wine buying for the store. From there she worked in other retail shops, including Binny’s for a time, before making the move to hospitality.

It was working in restaurants where she found her niche.

“I formulated the connection of food and wine and marrying them together to take the guests on a culinary journey and creating the most extraordinary experience,” she said. “Drinking wine is fun, talking about wine is fun, so learning about it should be too.”

Shopping for people who love a particular thing can lead to a very specific conundrum: How do you know if you’re getting them a gift that they’ll actually be excited about? This rings especially true for oenophiles, more commonly known as wine lovers. When it comes to the world of wine, there are a lot of different preferences, tastes, varieties and things to know.

Fortunately, finding the best present doesn’t have to be as complicated — especially when you’re armed with gift recommendations from experts with impeccable taste. These gifts, which include everything from the wine glasses you’ll find at Michelin-starred restaurants to a gadget that can keep an open bottle of wine fresh for years, have been hand-picked by expert sommeliers, winemakers, restaurateurs, hospitality pros and people who just know and love their wine.

Los Angeles-based certified sommelier and wine educator Brianne Cohen describes the Josephine No. 2 as “the sexiest wine glasses.” The universal wine glass, which is perfect for reds and whites alike, comes from the legendary Zalto family, whom she refers to as the GOATs of wine glasses. “Slim and dainty stems with gorgeously crafted bowls are a work of art on their own,” she explains, “and showcase your wines with their precise hand-blown craftsmanship.”

Aaron Thompson, a bartender, sommelier and co-owner of Brother Wolf and Osteria Stella in Knoxville, Tennessee, describes this as “a must for any wine lover who wants to keep their wine fresh.” This nifty gadget uses 100% food-grade argon gas to preserve the freshness of an open bottle of wine for years. “We use the Coravin preservation systems at all three of our restaurants because they work so effectively,” says Thompson. Cohen agrees, sharing that it’s perfect for a household with “differing wine preferences or for the person who likes to switch between different wines.” If you’re shopping for someone who tends to prefer bubbly, there’s also a Coravin system for sparkling wines.

“This is my favorite entertaining showstopper,” shares Sarah Tracey, sommelier at The Lush Life. “This ice mold not only keeps your wine chilled for hours, but it doubles as a gorgeous centerpiece,” she says. “Simply fill it with seasonal fruit, flowers or greenery to wow your guests — it’s a wonderful gift for oenophiles that love to host!”

“This is such a fun idea for a wine-soaked game night, especially if the wine-lover on your list has a competitive streak,” shares Tracey. “With trivia categories like ‘Vine to Vino,’ ‘Wine Cellar’ and ‘Cork Culture,’ players get to flex their wine knowledge while beginners can pick up some wine education.”

Chas Martin, co-founder of Duro Hospitality — the group responsible for Dallas’ highly-anticipated restaurant and bar Mister Charles — recommends this book, which holds “a special place” in his heart. “Back in the day, my professor — who’s a master sommelier now — used it as the go-to teaching material in one of my culinary school classes,” says Martin. “It’s super easy to get into, breaks down major wine regions and just gives you this broad, awesome view — seriously, a game-changer.”

“I love a good wine picnic, and this collapsible bamboo board is the perfect way to enjoy one both indoors and outdoors,” shares Amanda McCrossin, sommelier and host of the Wine Access Unfiltered Podcast. “Place your favorite cheeses and spreads directly on the board and keep your glasses and wine from knocking over in the holders — simple but genius design.”

“One of the best ways to continue learning about wine is by drinking outside of your comfort zone,” says McCrossin, and “a well-curated wine club featuring the recommendations of an unrivaled team of sommeliers is a perfect way to explore without the worry of wondering whether the wine will actually be good.” She recommends Wine Access, which boasts a couple subscription services you can choose from. One of the options is Wine Access Unfiltered, which pairs an episode of McCrossin’s own podcast series with four hand-selected bottles every two months, perfect for anyone hoping to learn about wine straight from the expert source.

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“As a wine glassware expert, I continuously reiterate that decanters are one of the best and most important gifts you could give a wine drinker,” shares Maximilian Riedel, the 11th-generation CEO and president of Riedel. “Decanters are more than mere accessories; they are key tools for getting maximum enjoyment out of wine,” he says. This stunning option is perfect for gifting, especially to those who love to explore different varietals or have an ever-changing wine preference, he explains. “Defined by its ease of use and versatile functionality, it’s ideal for any type of wine, including red, white and Champagne, and can be used to gently decant both older wines and vigorously aerate younger wines.”

“Sabering is such a fun party trick for wine lovers,” shares Desiree Harrison-Brown, a wine educator, influencer and founder of the blog Wino Noire. “Imagine the thrill of slicing open a bottle of Champagne with a sword, sending corks flying and sparking joyous moments.” Martin also recommends a Champagne saber as the perfect celebratory gift. “This adds a touch of French elegance and excitement to any celebration,” he explains, “making for a memorable and unique gift for the bubbly enthusiast in your life.”

“For a slightly more upscale gift, I love to give two glass sets of Gabriel Glas,” shares Ashley Herzberg, winemaker at Avaline. “These glasses are my go-to for writing tasting notes or for a casual glass of wine at home,” she says. “I love them and I love to share them.” They’re also a favorite of McCrossin’s, who refers to them as the little black dress of wine glasses. “A truly great wine glass can really optimize your wine,” she explains, “and this is one of the more affordable well-crafted options, and has that perfect balance of feeling both delicate and durable.”

“True wine lovers know that a lot of the joy of wine discovery lies in exploring pairings,” shares Tracey, “and cheese pairing is a classic way to start evolving your palate.” This subscription from the renowned Murray’s Cheese is available in three different shipping cadences, and each includes a variety of cheeses plus one other accompaniment, selected to pair with that month’s suggested beverage.

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“This is a personal journey through the wines that have most impacted my career and my take on what makes a real Italian wine,” shares Joe Campanale, co-owner of Bar Vinazo, LaLou and Fausto in Brooklyn, New York, and author of this book. “With a focus on indigenous grape varieties and small producers who are working in an organic and artisan method, this book showcases the most exciting wines being produced in Italy today.”

If you’re on the hunt for a practical yet stylish gift, Martin and McCrossin both endorse this corkscrew for wine enthusiasts. According to Martin, the double-pronged wine opener is “irreplaceable for preserving delicate and aged corks from vintage wines”. McCrossin also approves of this choice: “As a sommelier who has opened thousands of old wine bottles throughout my career, I can attest that this device is a lifesaver.”

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“This two-book set is a terrific present for anyone who is interested in gaining a deep understanding about wine,” comments Thompson. It extensively discusses the current scenario around wine in France. He further adds, “The book is filled with interesting stories about winemaker families in France and the various winemaker personalities. Plus, the photography is absolutely stunning.”

Tracey speaks highly of these sea salt spice blends created by Barton Seaver, a renowned chef and author, which are designed to complement and bring out the flavor of your choice of wine. She regards them as the perfect treats for wine-loving cooks or cooking aspirants on your gift list.

McCrossin deems this glass as the pinnacle of opulence and exceptional design, explaining that for a full olfactory and gustatory experience of Champagne, a tulip-shaped glass is actually superior to flutes or coupes. This singular piece allows for visibility of the bubbles which are accentuated nicely in its slender base – similar to a flute. The multiple turns leading up to the wider opening make it the perfect Champagne vessel, in her opinion.

Campanale speaks about her friend named Victoria James – a wine director and partner at Cote and Coqodaq. James co-founded an organization that supports women and the BIPOC community within the wine industry. She believes that amplifying more voices in the industry is advantageous for every wine enthusiast.

As a vintner, Herzberg prefers to include a small bonus when gifting a wine bottle. One of her favourite treats to give is a budget-friendly but classy bottle cooler. She believes that it makes a nice addition to her friends’ kitchens and maintains its appeal even when it isn’t being used.

Cohen suggests a wine club membership from Theopolis Vineyards which is owned by a Black woman and located near the border of Mendocino and Sonoma counties. She holds in high regard the petite sirah created by thewinery’s founder and owner, Theodora Lee. She describes it as an exceptional wine that has earned more awards than one can imagine.

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“Never wince or poke a hole in the ceiling again,” says McCrossin. “Simply place this device on top of the Champagne bottle, hold the neck and press the button, and the device will do the rest.” And while useful for most people, it’s a particularly great tool for those with limited mobility or conditions that make gripping a challenge.

“Say goodbye to half-dry wine glasses,” says Harrison-Brown. “These silicone drying racks are designed with openings to allow you to thoroughly air dry your wine glasses.” And as a bonus? They also work great for water bottles, tumblers and protein shakers.

There’s also this option from Kohler. “I purchased this not knowing whether I would actually use it,” says McCrossin, “and now I can’t remember my life without it.” This drying rack fits up to six glasses — even those with a super-wide base — and allows you to let your glasses dry without worry of knocking them over. “It folds completely flat, feels super sturdy and can be stored easily under the sink,” says McCrossin.

“A good crystal wine glass that works for most occasions is an always welcome gift idea,” says Thompson. Riedel is appreciated for its clever and functional design – each aspect, including the shape and size, is designed with the intention of accentuating specific types of wines and their fragrances. “These Riedel glasses are ideal for both white and red wines, and a great starting point for wine novices,” he adds.

Though it may first appear to be a book about architecture, McCrossin explains that it offers a behind-the-scenes glimpse of some of the most respected, noted, and stunning wineries and residences in Napa Valley. “This collective of architects from Napa Valley is well-renowned in the wine industry,” states McCrossin. “This is the ideal coffee table book, whether you wish to reminisce about a wine tasting trip, look forward to an upcoming one, or get an insider’s perspective on some of the world’s most exclusive wineries.”

For the individuals who would prefer to be indulging in a glass of wine on a vineyard rather than anywhere else, Harrison-Brown suggests this sweatshirt that highlights regions from some of the leading wine-producing nations.

A handsome wine decanter magnifies the wine drinking experience,” says Thompson, who encourages this graceful yet reasonably priced option that has the capacity to hold a full bottle of wine. “This decanter has a simple design with clean lines, and it’s effortless to pour from,” he remarks. “We recommend decanting young wines that are packed with character to allow them to breathe and thus reveal more of their concealed fragrances.”

Harrison-Brown describes this as “the top-rated wine text for beginners and experts alike.” The writer “guides you around the planet, experimenting with wines, cuisines, cultures, and more,” leading to an exciting, but incredibly enlightening and enjoyable read.

“Alice Feiring is the authority on organic wines and I’ve subscribed to her newsletter for several years,” remarks Campanale. “She just relocated to Paris to be nearer to the organic wine universe’s epicenter and I am eager to read her updates. Her passion and support for natural wines are not because they’re trendy or appealing, but because she appreciates fine wine.”

“This one is a bit extravagant, but for when you wish to amaze a wine enthusiast,” mentions Tracey. “Known for their exquisitely designed knives, Laguiole produces the ultimate standard of wine openers — items that are meant to become heirlooms.” This beauty is designed with a green malachite stone circle.

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Some wines feature the name of the grape on the label.

Others list the place where the wine was made.

Then there’s Montecucco Sangiovese.

The name of these outstanding Italian red wines packs in a lot of information.

They describe exactly where these wines come from – Montecucco.

They list the name of the grape used primarily to make them – sangiovese.

But that’s just the start.

In order for a wine to be called a Montecucco Sangiovese, they need to meet several other strict requirements.

We’ll get to those rules in a second.

All you need to remember for now is these wines taste great. And best of all, they cost far less (often in the $15 to 35 per bottle range) than many other red wines from other nearby Italian wine regions.

So this week, it’s all about Montecucco Sangiovese wines – where they come from, how they’re made, as well as tasting notes for four Montecucco Sangiovese wines.

Hope you enjoy.

Where do Montecucco Sangiovese wines come from?

Montecucco is the name of the wine region where these wines come from in Italy. Specifically, Montecucco is located near the west coast of central Italy in the southern part of Tuscany about 100 miles north of Rome. This subregion of Tuscany produces many different types of wines, including a wide range of reds, whites and roses. Many of these wines from Montecucco also have one thing in common – most of them cost far less than many other wines from Tuscany, which makes this wine region a great one worth keeping an eye out for in wine stores and restaurants.

What grapes are Montecucco Sangiovese wines made with?

As you may have already guessed, the primary grape used to make Montecucco Sangiovese wines is sangiovese. Specifically, Montecucco Sangiovese wines must contain at least 90 percent sangiovese grapes. As for the other 10 percent, merlot or cabernet sauvignon are often blended with sangiovese to make these memorable wines.

Other winemaking requirements

Along with coming from a particular place and being made with specific types of grapes, several other regulations apply to Montecucco Sangiovese wines. All of these wines must be aged for at least 17 months, including at least 12 months in a wine barrel. And in order to be called a Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva wine, they must be aged for at least 34 months, including two years in a wine barrel and six months in a wine bottle. In addition, these wines must have at least 13 percent alcohol. But enough about the rules. Let’s get to how these wines taste.

2016 Podere Montale Montecucco Sangiovese ($27 Suggested Retail Price)

This intense, dark-colored red wine has a wide range of bold, earthy, vibrant fruit flavors, including hints of roasted blackberry and cherry along with dashes of fresh-cut cedar and dark chocolate. Full-throttled fun in a bottle.

2018 Poggio Stenti Tribulo Montecucco Sangiovese ($29 SRP)

Made entirely with sangiovese grapes, this lively, energetic wine has a wonderful array of vivacious flavors, including toasted almonds fresh-picked cherries, blueberries and other ripe berry flavors. Graceful and charming.

2016 Pian Di Staffa Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva ($25 SRP)

Another Montecucco Sangiovese made entirely with sangiovese wines, this complex, red wine has a lot of character and personality. Flavors range from dark chocolate and roasted cherries to layers of roasted red pepper, blackberries and toasted almonds. Delicious and delightful.

2016 Tenuta L’Impostino Viandante Montecucco Sangiovese Riserva ($35 SRP)

Made entirely with sangiovese grapes aged for 24 months in French oak barrels, this wine is bright and lively, tasting like autumn in a glass. With hints of blackcurrant, cherry, tobacco, and dark chocolate, it is another beautiful, elegant example of an aged sangiovese wine.

Free Italian Wine Tasting – Provisions in Northampton is hosting a free wine tasting focused on Italian wines. The event will take place on Friday, Feb. 16 from 4 pm to 7 pm, located at 30 Crafts Avenue. More event details can be found on Provision’s website.

High Score, Low Price – Table & Vine is hosting a wine tasting class featuring highly-rated wines that are less than $20 a bottle. The tasting will occur on Thursday, Feb., 22 from 6 pm to 7:30 pm at 1119 Riverdale Street, West Springfield. Tickets are $20 and can be bought on Table & Vine’s website.

Boston Wine Expo – The Boston Wine Expo will be held March 2 and 3 at the Hilton Boston Park Plaza Hotel, 50 Park Plaza, Boston. Wine tastings will be held each day, along with specialized wine tasting seminars at different times throughout the weekend. For tickets and more information, visit the Boston Wine Expo’s website.

Cheers!

Wine Press by Ken Ross appears on Masslive.com every Monday and in The Republican’s Weekend section every Thursday.

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Week in Review

The once bustling Benny Deluca’s pizzeria, known widely as the “home of the Virginia slice”, has given way to the shiny new Grape & Grain Exchange, a store specializing in wines and beers, on Charlottesville’s West Main Street.

Grape & Grain Exchange threw open its doors to customers on February 1, operating from the 913 W. Main St. location. Living up to its name, it has an impressive range of wines, beers, seltzers, and energy drinks. The shop particularly focuses on catering to the University of Virginia students and hospital workers passing by.

Let’s rewind a bit to remember that Benny Deluca’s had been a landmark at the West Main spot from as far back as 2014. However, they shut down in the July of 2023. We still await news about whether they plan to spring back somewhere else in the city. Furthermore, they’ve scrubbed Charlottesville off their list of Virginia locations on the chain’s website.

There is indeed no shortage of wine shops in Charlottesville. A mere third of a mile from Grape & Grain sits Bottle House; Feast at Main Street Market, boasting an impressive selection of wines, is just a few hundred feet away; and further down the road, one can find Crush Pad Wines, Market Street Wines and Tastings of Charlottesville right by or just off the Downtown Mall.

Picture a pedestrian strolling past Grape & Grain Exchange, a shop on West Main Street focused on providing a wide variety of wine and beer, on the crowdless evening of Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024.

However, Dru Patel, the owner of Grape & Grain, and his brother and business associate, Nick, affirm that their shop offers something fresh to the scenario.

The Patel brothers were moved by a tour of Europe during which they got a chance to explore an array of wine shops across different countries. Filled with inspiration, they returned to the United States resolved to introduce Charlottesville to the unique concept of small, affordable wine shops.

With the Benny Deluca’s space on the market, the brothers seized the opportunity to convert the 1,400-square-foot area into their dream concept.

Observing the location, it bears similarity to any other wine shop in town. The distinguishing factor of Grape & Grain Exchange is affordability.

Wines on display are clearly seen at the Grape & Grain Exchange, a shop specializing in wine and beer located on West Main Street in Charlottesville, documented on Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024.

“We’re challenging the common perception that high-quality wine must be expensive,” Dru Patel disclosed to The Daily Progress. “Every wine in here is priced below $20, yet these are brands that consumers will readily identify.”

The Patel brothers have identified the business opportunities available on West Main in Charlottesville, thanks to its close proximity to the downtown area, Grounds, the Corner and UVa Medical Center. Their family is no stranger to the potential of this area, as their father, Vasu Patel, runs the Mini Mart convenience store a few steps away from Grape & Grain.

Ever since Vasu Patel and his family left Kenya over two decades ago, he’s been involved in the retail industry, says Dru Patel. The family’s retail ventures in Charlottesville include the Mini Mart, Grape & Grain, and the 9th Street Market. The latter is a convenient store located behind the Guadalajara Mexican Restaurant downtown, which the Patel brothers launched about half a year ago.

Shortly after the opening of Grape & Grain, the Patel brothers began discussing additional expansion plans.

Dru Patel, who owns the Grape & Grain Exchange, was photographed at the Charlottesville wine and beer shop on Thursday, February 8, 2024.

“We are focused on seeing how this goes, but it’s also our stepping stone,” said Dru Patel, referring to the wine shop. “We are looking to branch out by the end of the year with hopefully another location with more space.”

Grape & Grain is open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Wednesday, 9 a.m. to 11 p.. Thursday through Saturday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday. To keep up to date on new arrivals, events and promotions, customers can visit the Grape & Grain Instagram: cvillegrapeandgrain.

The interior of Grape & Grain Exchange, a wine and beer shop on West Main Street in Charlottesville, is seen on Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024.

Emily Hemphill (540) 855-0362

ehemphill@dailyprogress.com

@EmilyHemphill06 on Twitter

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Week in Review

Skipstone vineyards with mustard flowers

Steep terraced vineyards at Skipstone

Almost akin to a dream being realized, he saw the steepest slope ever, filled with beautifully maintained Cabernet Sauvignon vines comfortably nestled in carved terraces. This sight was truly remarkable for this self-made telecom pioneer, who had traversed the world and experienced various forms of natural beauty. Initially, he had no intentions to make wine but the overpowering elegance of this estate was a seductive call he could not refuse. Within an hour, he became the owner of the property.

Fahri Diner, a man always ready for a challenge and consistently dreaming big, even without the necessary wealth and connections. His origins trace back to Cyprus, an island country to the east of Greece where he grew up in a farming family with a fondness for making olive oil. An academic scholarship gave him the opportunity to go to the U.S. and study Electrical Engineering at Florida Tech, leading to the founding of Qtera, a fiber-optic company that later sold for $3.25 billion. Fahri, after numerous business ventures post Qtera, desired another passion that would connect him with his familial roots. He wanted to get back to small-scale farming and produce high-quality crops, similar to the olive oil made by his family. The big question was, would he remain in Florida, return to Cyprus, or find a ranch in the beautiful state of California?

View of terraced vineyards from the Residence at Skipstone

Fahri did what he always did when having to make a big decision. He went to a lake and skipped a stone; if it skipped three times, he would go to California and look for a ranch to reconnect to his farming roots. It was three times, hence, his two-year journey seeking out a unique property throughout California, from as south as Santa Barbara to as north as Alexander Valley in Sonoma County, began. Most people told him Napa was the place to be but Fahri has always trusted his instincts and didn’t see any properties that felt right. One day, in 2001, someone told him about a property in the Alexander Valley area in Sonoma County. When he had that moment of coming over the crest of the road, taking in those terraced vineyards on an extremely steep slope, he knew that this was the place, especially since there were olive trees so that he could make olive oil.

At first, he sold the grapes from the vineyards to local wineries eager to get them. Still, it bothered him that these rare vineyards were not getting the acknowledgment they deserved. So, he hired a team of experts, such as winemaker Philippe Melka, a true living legend in the wine industry, to express the place’s unique terroir and aptly take on the name Skipstone as a wine producer. Reconnecting to his roots while combining it with his love for the U.S., his second home that has given him so much opportunity, has led to the completion of the Skipstone winery. The journey began in earnest with the hiring of rising winemaking star Laura Jones as the head winemaker.

Landscape view with terraced vineyards and Skipstone estate during winter

Alexander Valley may not be a household name for Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Still, it is considered by many in the California wine industry to be one of the most important wine regions for Cabernet Sauvignon, only second to Napa Valley. Many well-known wine producers source Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Alexander Valley, giving little attention to the place, and there are some ultra-premium Cabernet producers with Alexander Valley on their labels. Still, the wine producer often sticks with customers, while Alexander Valley often goes unnoticed. But that was part of what drew Fahri to this place; it was an underdog such as himself, and it deserved someone who would show its full potential.

Laura Jones

His new head winemaking star, Laura Jones, is also an underdog who built a pedigree based on intelligence, talent and hard work, as she is originally from Wyoming but was able to get herself on the track of going into medical research in California, but when she was looking into grad schools, an encounter with someone in the wine world placed her on another path. So, she graduated from the prestigious graduate program in Viticulture and Enology from U.C. Davis and then went on to not only work in stellar wineries in California, such as Aubert Wines and Cliff Lede, but also spent some time in New Zealand and in Burgundy, France, at Domaine Armand Rousseau to give her an international perspective as well.

Even though there are only 27 acres of vineyards out of the 200-acre estate, the first thing Laura wanted to do was to employ precision viticulture practices by assessing the nuanced differences of each plot. So she installed three weather stations, one on the steeper hillside, one near the flatter part of the vineyards and one halfway up the hillside. During the summertime, there can be a seven to eight-degree difference between some parcels.

Laura Jones at the sorting table

One of the things that Laura loves about Skipstone, other than their exceptional vineyards, is that they employ a full-time vineyard crew. This is unusual as most vineyards hire temporary crews during the busiest seasons. Because Skipstone operates a 180-degree amphitheater with a high 60% slope, there’s constant work throughout the year due to the challenging terrain. Skipstone’s vineyard manager, Juan Alcantara, has stayed onboard for 16 years, and half of the crew have been around for 15 years, a testament to the stability which is uncommon in the ever-changing wine business. Laura values this stability because it allows consistent collaboration with the same team for refining vineyard management. This organic way of working has earned them a CCOF certification since 2008. Laura looks forward to bringing more precision to the expression of each parcel, focusing in on the rocky soils that provide more concentration, the gravel where Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc excel, and the clay-rich plots that are well suited to Merlot and Malbec.

Woman making notes in a field

Philippe Melka will continue as a consulting winemaker but Fahri understood the necessity to hire a full-time head winemaker like Laura to take their wines to a new level. He admired Laura’s admirable educational background and work history, and found it even more impressive because she started with none of the usual business advantages. Fahri values those who demonstrate passion and dedication beyond just having pedigree. Laura’s commitment to her work, coupled with being married to Skipstone’s general manager, Brian Ball, ensures her full dedication to the winery’s success.

It’s not always smooth sailing in any marriage, particularly when both parties want their own success. Laura and Brian have navigated this journey of self-accomplishment since their meeting at U.C. Davis years ago. There’s no guarantee that a winery team will remain intact; it’s almost inevitable that people will come and go. This can cause setbacks in progress as new team dynamics take shape and try to achieve extraordinary output. Despite these challenges, Laura, having tasted the exquisite wines of Skipstone and seen their remarkable vineyards, decided to align her journey with them.

Residence at Skipstone from a bird’s eye view

The splendour of Skipstone is now available for experience through staycations at the ‘Residence at Skipstone’. It offers visitors the life of a vintner with unmatched luxury. Originally, the residence was home to Fahri, Constance and their little children. Their former abode mirrors a European castle with exterior stones sourced from the property, and each sink cut and polished from a single boulder found within the estate. It’s spectacular to see the breathtaking facets of this 8,344 square foot home that houses five en suite bedrooms and a gourmet kitchen. However, Fahri and family moved back to Switzerland for their children to grow up amidst relatives. Now the residence is up for booking that can accommodate up to ten guests. Their estate director can arrange for everything from top restaurant reservations, winery tours, access to the Mayacama Country Club’s golf course, and wine tasting at the residence. The wine tasting not only includes Skipstone wines but also those from Fahri’s personal cellar, with a wide selection of old Bordeaux, Napa and Sonoma producers from early 1990s to 2000s and a variety of Champagne being some of the highlighted features.

More improvements are underway at Skipstone with a second floor being added to their winery as a vibrant hospitality centre. They are deeply committed to sustainability and anticipate becoming the fourth winery to receive the Platinum certification from the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) as all their projects will be powered by 100% renewable energy.

Lineup of Skipstone wines

2021 Skipstone, Preface Proprietary Red Blend, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of various Cabernet Sauvignon parcels on the estate. Preface is a selection from Cabernet Sauvignon vines that make a wine that drinks well at an earlier stage and it is at an approachable price point, so it is a great introduction to the Skipstone portfolio. This wine also allows for a stricter selection for their flagship, Oliver’s Blend. Lovely balance with red cherries and black raspberries with hints of broken earth and a beautiful texture finishing with a pretty floral quality.

2021 Skipstone, Malbec, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Malbec. Since they have a fair amount of Malbec that does really well in the clay-dominant parcels, they wanted to make a varietal bottling of Malbec to showcase that particular section. Laura loves the “inherent deliciousness” of their Malbec as they go out of their way to thin the crop, sometimes 50%, to get the highest quality. Yet, she balances out the fruit’s generosity by placing a portion of the wine in amphora, which brings out a savory quality. Decadent dark fruit with juicy blueberry and plum tart on the palate with a hint of allspice and dry herbs with a silky texture and long, flavorful finish.

2021 Skipstone, Ripple Effect, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot, mainly from the Skipstone estate vineyards, with a tiny portion coming from another plot on the hillside outside of their estate. This wine is called Ripple Effect because they sourced a small amount from a hillside outside of their estate, it is the ripple effect of Skipstone emanating out of their vineyards. This wine illustrates the parcels on the estate that have more mountain fruit quality, which has slightly firmer tannins and high-toned fruit; hence, why they sourced outside fruit that would help highlight those qualities. Cocoa nibs and sandalwood incense on the nose with black cherry skins and broader tannins give more structure and shape with a vibrant and well-focused finish.

2021 Skipstone, Faultline Vineyard, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: A mixture of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This blend is inspired by the Right Bank, encompassing Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The proportions vary annually and these parcels are found along a fault line. The Mayacamas fault line, prevalent throughout their property, is among the most active in the area, benefiting them by releasing pressure and minimizing the likelihood of future catastrophes. The U.S. Geologic Survey maintains three permanent installations at Skipstone, classifying it as an official earthquake monitoring station. The aromas immerse you in a forest walk with scents of tree bark and morels, complemented by elegant red and black fruit flavors. There’s a fine-laced structure leading to a long, expressive conclusion, leaving images of wildflowers in the mind.

2021 Skipstone Oliver’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, compiled from a few parcels on the property. This wine primarily consists of the oldest vines on the terraced hillside and a small portion from a couple blocks on the non-terraced slope. In 2019, the harvest was limited, yielding only 2,000 cases. The opulent texture of this wine is truly awe-inspiring. The superior mouthfeel coupled with the intricate aromas of crushed rocks, fresh tobacco, and untouched fruit render this wine a spectacle of beauty.

Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House intend to launch their outlets in the anticipated Block 59 dining/entertainment hub in Naperville. However, their ability to do so hinges on the city’s decision to ease the restrictions on wine and beer serving sizes that currently hinder the two national chains from offering the drinks outlined in their menus.

Both restaurants are presently unwilling to join the development with such constraints, and if they decide to withdraw, other proposed tenants—including The Cheesecake Factory, First Watch, Shake Shake, and Stan’s Donuts—might likely terminate their leases as well. This scenario was brought into the open by Andrew Balzer, the project developer from the Brixmor Property Group, during his interaction with the Naperville Liquor Commission on Thursday.

The planned Block 59, located at the northwest junction of Route 59 and Aurora Avenue and provisionally set to open its doors in 2025, is being promoted as a premier regional dining and entertainment hot spot.

Block 59 relies on the inclusion of Ruth’s Chris and Yard House as its cornerstones, Balzer remarked. Nevertheless, if the establishments cannot serve their unique beverages synonymous with their other branches, they vow to cancel their leases. For Yard House, their signature beverage is the “Half Yard”—a 32-ounce beer that forms a significant part of their corporate brand identity. On the other hand, at Ruth’s Chris, guests expect to enjoy their famed 9-ounce glasses of wine.

Under Naperville codes, 24 ounces of beer and cider is the maximum serving size allowed and wine is limited to 6 ounces per serving.

If either restaurant decides not to operate in Naperville due to this restriction and if other tenants do the same, the whole development will be at risk according to Balzer.

Both these companies have not faced such serving size restrictions at their other locations and both have received positive feedback from the communities they serve.

Yard House has 88 restaurants all over the country, including ones in Lombard and Glenview in Illinois. Ruth’s Chris boasts of 134 restaurants, including ones located in Northbrook and South Barrington.

Liquor commissioners stated that they weren’t worried about permitting 9-ounce wine servings, as it’s likely some eateries are presently serving this volume due to ignorance of the restrictions. However, they expressed apprehension that approving a 32-ounce beer serve could pave the way for other businesses aspiring for the same.

In the words of Mayor Scott Wehrli, who also serves as the liquor commission’s head, the city doesn’t wish to bestow an unjust advantage on a single enterprise by ratifying a resolution that’s not universally accessible.

Liquor commissioners attested that the restaurant industry in Naperville is incredibly competitive. They concluded that a new standard would need to be established that didn’t give a newcomer something that existing businesses lacked.

“Our mandate isn’t only safety. We must also concentrate on economic development,” affirmed Commissioner Tony Signorella. “The issue that concerns me is the precedent being set.”

Steve Chirico, formerly the Mayor and now a commission member, commented that the current code was established at a time when establishments were serving 25-ounce beer cans, two beer equivalent, during the last call. This scenario made patrons consume a considerable amount just before closing hours.

The commission members mulled over the possibility of setting a limit on alcohol content for 32-ounce beers, albeit they agreed that such a condition could be challenging to manage.

According to Balzer, Yard House primarily serves Miller Lite or Coors Light in its signature 32-ounce glass, both of which do not have high alcohol content. He also shared that the half-yard option accounts for approximately 3% of weekday beer sales and 6% of weekend beer sales at its location in Lombard.

Christine Jeffries, who holds the position of President at the Naperville Development Partnership, expressed her support for higher pour limits. She is confident that bartenders and servers in Naperville have undergone proper training and can serve alcohol responsibly.

She stated that it’s not as much alcohol as purchasing a 60-ounce pitcher of beer, margaritas, or a wine bottle for the table, which are all now legal.

Jeffries mentioned that they haven’t faced chaos with these items. She expressed her confidence in both Naperville and Basset’s training.

The commissioners recommended the larger wine serving size with a unanimous 5-0 vote, but were divided about the beer size increase. The latter was accepted by a narrow 3-2 vote, with Commissioners Kelly Douglas and Ray McGury opposing the modification.

Both changes require the approval of the Naperville City Council before implementation. The council will discuss the requests at an upcoming meeting.

Michelle Mullins is a freelance reporter for the Naperville Sun.