Wine expert and consultant Aymeric de Clouet

At the Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges wine auction in the Burgundy region of France this past weekend, wine expert and consultant Aymeric de Clouet provided technical information to bidders who tasted wines. An article about the auction is here.

When we spoke together, De Clouet explained what factors contributed to the overall quality of this 2023 vintage of Pinot Noir. His words highlight how chaos and enigma can sometimes produce alluringly seductive wines.

“The weather was extremely complicated in 2023. It began very cold, which lasted very late.”

May’s warmth sped up vine growth, however, the cold and lack of sunlight between July and August resulted in delayed maturation. The heat experienced between August 17th and 20th was a boon for winemakers.

The rise in temperature was beneficial. The timing couldn’t have been more perfect. It brought great joy to everyone. There was a spell of extreme heat for three to four days in September which led to the grilling of a few grapes. These had to be removed during sorting. This experience resulted in good maturity, but caution was required to prevent overripe conditions.

The grape yield in 2023 was so abundant that Jean-Marc Moron, the Estate Manager of the Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges vineyards, had to take an atypical approach.

Jean-Marc Moron, the Estate Manager of Hospices Nuits-Saint-Georges vineyards

“He believed that there were an excessive amount of grapes,” De Clouet elaborated. “Hence, he executed what we term a green harvest in July, followed by another in August.”

Green harvesting encompasses the diminution of vine leaves for improved aeration of vines, as well as plucking and disregarding specific grape bunches to instil a heightened concentration of flavors in the remaining grapes. To execute two green harvests in a single vintage is quite atypical.

“He conducted two rounds in the vineyard. This scenario is somewhat unusual. Consequently, the Domaine de Hospices de Nuits produced less wine than the previous year, while the 2023 vintage was significantly more prolific than that of 2022 in several other domaines [wine estates].”

De Clouet provided a description of the vintage 2023 wines derived from Nuits-Saint-Georges.

“Concentration, flavor, complexity and individuality of each parcel. On top of that—balance, which is the big surprise of 2023, because we didn’t expect that.”

The paradox of the 2023 vintage is that laboratory results of Nuits-Saint-Georges juices include a characteristic that seems contradictory with tastings.

“The analysis indicates that acidity is extremely low, but it doesn’t taste like that. It tastes very balanced. There is something very special in this vintage—especially in that balance which doesn’t appear in the analysis.”

This leads to a strong, simple, and refreshing conclusion.

“It’s good to know that we don’t know everything. The analysis is not sufficient; the taste is just as important as the analysis. It’s more important, I would say from my point of view.”

Again with Burgundy wines, mysteries can enhance their magic.

Cellar with Nuits-Saint-Georges wines that will be auctioned

Tasting notes are below. Note these are personal and subjective.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Le Terres Blanches. Cuvée Pierre de Pême. 2023. 93–94 points.

A white wine created from Chardonnay. It gives off opulent, floral, and slightly nutty aromas that are quite generous. On tasting, it is a crunchy and textured delight with prevalent tropical flavors.

Gevrey-Chambertin. Les Champs-Chenys. Cuvée Irène Noblet. 2023.

Exhibiting aromas of red fruit, including raspberries and strawberries. It’s a succulent and plush wine, displaying a linear quality in its youth.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Les Maladieres. Les Brûlées. Cuvée Grangier. 2023.

Open, floral, opulent aromas. A slightly spicy and textured wine with suave acidity.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Les Lavieres. Les Bas de Combe Cuvée Guillaume Labye. 2023.

Red fruit aromas, with some tropical fruits and spices. In the mouth this wine is deft, delicate and opulent. Finesse in tannins. Bright acidity.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Les Fleurieres—Les Plantes au Baron Cuvèe des Soeurs Hospitaliéres. 2023.

It has bright and floral aromas with hints of raspberries and red cherries.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Les Saint-Julien – Les Plateux. Cuvée Poyen. 2023.

The aroma is perky with hints of light red fruit. It has bright flavors inclusive of black cherries combined with a shining acidity. It may not yet be complex, but it’s undeniably delicious.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Vignerondes. Cuvée Bernarde Deleschlache. 2023. 92–93 points.

Quiet aromas that include flint, minerality, red cherries and black cherries. Flavors include raspberries. Bright acidity.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Terres Blanches. Cuvée Pierre de Pême. 2023. 96 points.

Supple herbaceous aromas that include red fruit, green grass, black cherries. Complex, robust, engaging flavors that include blackberries and slight menthol. Distinct and brilliant.

Hospices de Nuits auction within Clos de Vougeot

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Rues de Chaux. Cuvée Guillaume Labye. 2023. 93 points.

Bright and light red fruit aromas that include raspberries and tropicals as well as florals such as roses. Stout, firm, taut but gentle tannins. Generous and full flavored.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Porrets-St-George. Cuvée Antide Midan. 2023. 95 points.

Exquisite aromas of red fruit, like raspberries and black cherries, exude from this wine. Its taste is a perfect balance of richness and lightness, making it a delightful, vibrant, and quintessential red Burgundy. With powerful dark fruit flavors lingering on your palate, it provides a commanding and mature assembly of acid and tannin.

Presenting Nuits-Saint-Georges. The Premier Cru Les Boudots. Known as the Cuvée Mesny de Boisseaux, estimated for the year 2023, and rated 95 points.

Experience the bright and crisp aromas of young light red fruits, including raspberries. This wine embodies a subtle acidity that shines brilliantly. It’s a complex creation that leaves one in awe. Its broad shoulders command attention even as it provides soft tannins, characteristic of a classic red Burgundy. The flavors are generous, making this an elegant, supple, and seductive wine.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cur Les Murgers. Known as the Cuvée Guyard de Changey, set for 2023, earning an outstanding rating of 96 points

Quiet aromas that include some granite and red plums. Supple, rich, balanced red fruit flavors with light acidity. A quintessential 2023 red Burgundy howling deft tannins, elegance and supple young red fruit. Commanding and crisp light acidity.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Corvees Pagets. Cuvée Saint-Laurent. 2023. 94 points.

Billowing, wafting, commanding, sparkling and lively Nuits-Saint-Georges aromas that include those of black cherries, dark plums and raspberries. Rich and delightful flavors that need time to develop complexity. Remarkable integration of red fruit with acidity and tannins.

Nuits-Saint-Georges grapevines

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Didiers. Cuvée Cabet. 2023. 94—95 points.

Soft and unassuming aromas that include delicate florals, red plums, prunes and a fern glen. Crisp acidity. Soft, intense, beautiful dark red fruit flavors well integrated with supple tannins.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Didiers. Cuvée Jacques Duret. 95 points.

Simple, young, full aromas that include raspberries. In the mouth this is a succulent and delicious and easy drinking wine with confident firm tannins and juicy acidity, Delightful.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Didiers. Cuvée Fagon. 2023. 96 points.

Harmonious, balanced, generous and succulent aromas that include red plums, strawberries, red currants and blackberries. A delightfully easy drinking river of balanced and rich soft red fruit with a sliver of chocolate cake. Complex flavors, well integrated tannins. Delightful!

Nuits-Saint-Georges town hall, Burgundy, France

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Saint Georges. Cuvée des Sires de Vergy. 2023. 96 points.

Red strawberries, black and red cherries, fern glen, and black berries usher in the first wave of aromas. These vibrant notes are followed by firm, commanding and succulent flavors of red fruit, figs, and a hint of molasses. The complexity is brought to life by a bright yet fitting acidity. Simply put, it is an undeniably beautiful wine.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Saint-Georges. Cuvée Georges Faiveley. 2023. 97+ points.

The aroma’s first impression is bright and crisp, quickly followed by a softer undertone. Skillfully blended, the red fruit and acidity deliver an integrated and balanced profile. With each taste, one experiences the crackling fresh red fruit and the beautifully reposed tannins. It is a wine that just begs you to pour another glass.

Nuits-Saint-Georges. Premier Cru Les Saint-Georges. Vielles Vignes. Cuvée Hugues Perdrizet. 97+ points.

Dark aromas include molasses, tar and a fern glen. Elegant and shining beauty of a wine with light flavors of succulent red fruit and supple tannins in this lively, balanced and shouldered burgundy.