Coastlands Vineyard

She epitomized resilience, liberty, and effortless charm, as the sunlight caught the nuances of her hair when she worked the soil planting various selections of the obscure Pinot Noir clones. Unlike its robust counterpart, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir crafted more delicate wines and was lesser-known during that era. Nevertheless, she was not one to walk the well-trodden path. Her adventures were many: from designing surfboards for Hobie in the 1950s to piloting aircraft for swordfish spotting, and serving as the art director for Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine for 25 years. She and her husband chose to carve their unique path on their property along the Sonoma Coast in California, situated just three miles from the Pacific Ocean.

In 1989, they embarked on a new adventure, planting a vineyard of Pinot Noir alongside her marine biologist husband, preempting the Pinot Noir trend which later captivated premium wine enthusiasts with its delicate structure and captivating aroma. They nestled their vineyard amid a bay laurel grove, crowned by an ancient oak which bore the inscription ‘1906’, likely a tribute to the monumental San Francisco earthquake of the same year.

Their son Ross also contributed to the vineyard during his college years to support his expenses, despite dreaming of a career in music. He played in a band while studying agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, emphasizing soil science, with no initial aspirations of winemaking or inheriting the vineyard. This small acreage held approximately one and a half acres of meticulously chosen Pinot Noir clones that grew on their own roots, symbolizing a true labor of love.

At a pivotal moment in his life, Ross chose the path of not only working in vineyards but also delving deep into the art of winemaking. His journey led him to collaborate with distinguished wine producers across Sonoma, ranging from expansive to modest operations, which enriched his experience with diverse styles and varietals. His passion eventually focused on crafting small-batch, site-specific Pinot Noir under his own brand, Cobb Wines.

Ross Cobb also harbors a deep appreciation for music, boasting a collection of approximately 8,000 vinyl records—though he’s stopped counting. These records are kept in no particular order, allowing Ross the pleasure of choosing randomly, which mirrors different periods of his musical taste. Some are cherished gifts from individuals needing to off-load their collection, representing his belief that everything has value if one remains open to it.

Similarly, Ross’s approach to wine was initially characterized by a thirst for diverse experiences. His inaugural venture in the wine industry was setting up the first soil lab at Ferrari-Carano in 1994, an enlightening experience in crafting high-end wine at a significant scale. His quest for varied experiences took him to Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, where he worked under Randall Grahm—a pioneer of Rhône grape varietals in California. Working in these contrasting environments, from the large-scale Ferrari-Carano to the smaller scale Bonny Doon, immensely broadened his knowledge and understanding of winemaking.

He started his career with notable Pinot Noir producers in Sonoma Coast, first at Williams Selyem as a viticulturist and enologist, then moving on to become associate winemaker at Flowers Winery under the guidance of Hugh Chappelle. After some time, Ross became the head winemaker before transitioning to Hirsch Vineyards, where he played a key role in launching their own label, thanks to his established connection with the vineyard’s owner, David Hirsch. He remained the head winemaker until his transition was succeeded by Jasmine Hirsch.

Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard which is next to Cobbs’ Coastland Vineyard

Simultaneously, Ross’s journey was paralleled by his parents who began to market a special block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams, co-founder of Williams Selyem, planted in 1989. On visiting the family’s small vineyard to sample different Pinot Noir clones, the clone Jackson 16, purportedly identified in California during the late 1800s, was chosen by Burt Williams for its superior taste, leading to an expansion in their vineyard to include more of the Jackson 16 clone. This expansion added another 12.5 acres, totaling 14 acres dedicated to cultivating this particular clone, hence fortifying their status as suppliers of high-quality Sonoma Pinot Noir.

Remarkably, the vines originally planted in 1989 are still thriving without the need for irrigation for about 25 years.

Burgundy vineyards

Ross has always had an eclectic taste in music, drawn to anything that resonates with him. However, his approach to wine is more discerning. Having formerly juggled winemaking with a day job, he produced small quantities of wine from his family’s land. When he transitioned to full-time winemaking under his family’s brand, he immersed himself in the intricacies of each small section of their vineyards. Inspired by elite Burgundy vintners, who skillfully conveyed a “sense of place” in their wines, Ross found himself frequently visiting Burgundy. Despite strained finances, he traveled, armed only with a backpack, to meet with renowned wine producers, trading insights on superb California Pinot Noir in exchange for their centuries-spanning wisdom.

Ross visited Burgundy 14 times, despite suggestions to explore other regions, captivated by the nuanced expression of tiny vineyard segments in Burgundy’s wines. Eager to mirror this precise portrayal of locality using his family’s vineyards and leveraging Pinot Noir’s natural proclivity for expressing terroir, he also began sourcing from additional vineyard locations.

Coastlands Vineyard

Ross’s family owns Coastlands Vineyard where a unique bottling is done using grapes from his mother’s initial plantings. They experiment with the Pinot Noir clone, Jackson 16, which was praised by his parents and the renowned Burt Williams for its aromatic and flavor profiles and its potential resistance to phylloxera. This pest once wreaked havoc in Europe’s vineyards, and Ross maintains that grafting European vines onto American rootstock is typically the best defense. Unlike others, their vineyard’s Pinot Noir is planted on its native roots, adding to its uniqueness.

Ross takes specific precautions against phylloxera, benefiting from the vineyard’s isolated location, surrounded by only two other vineyards, none of which are affected by the pest. Should the Jackson 16 clone prove resistant, Ross contemplates transitioning all his vineyards to own-rooted vines, a project potentially for his daughter, now 15, to continue, possibly leading to a major viticultural breakthrough.

Reflecting on his youth, Ross recalls the impactful moments of watching his adventurous mother plant vines with his father. At the time, as a college student uncertain about his future, he didn’t fully appreciate those moments. As life progresses, such memories gain significance, outlasting more temporary concerns. Despite a possibly safer career path in winemaking, Ross chose to deeper explore and innovate in crafting exceptional Pinot Noir, inspired by the renowned wines of Burgundy.

During the peak of the 2006 harvest season, Ross’s mother, Diane Cobb, sadly passed away. In her honor, Ross and his father chose to dedicate a special wine from the original block of vines she had personally planted and named it after her. On days when the sun casts a warm golden light over the nearby Pacific Ocean, Ross fondly remembers his mother as one of the most courageous people he’s ever known. His mother’s bold spirit deeply influenced him during his early years, encouraging him to embrace risks and make significant life decisions. This led him to stop selling the grapes from his mother’s unique vine plot to other wineries, despite the financial security it provided. He chose instead to produce his own wine from this cherished Pinot Noir plot, naming it in memory of his mother, a tribute to her formidable character that forever changed his outlook on life.

2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: This wine features 100% Pinot Noir, boasting tantalizing flavors of mulberry coulis and a hint of cinnamon along with raspberry cobbler, combined with rich notes of fragmented earth and an invigorating overall freshness.

2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block” Chardonnay

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd, and a hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality. It offers a nimble body with a touch of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard honors Ross Cobb’s neighbor and friend, Joann, who adored Chardonnay wine. She had the privilege of tasting the inaugural vintage of this wine shortly before her demise.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. An exuberant nose with baking spices, black raspberry scones, and candied violets, accompanied by a grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate, imparting an overall sprightly quality.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A wine that precisely expresses pretty notes of lavender, fresh sage and rose oil with pristine red fruit on the delicately structured palate that expresses so much finesse.

2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A dark, brooding nose that is very intriguing with layers of black and blue fruit layered with wild herbs and sweet tobacco leaf with a broad body and crisp acidity. This vineyard is owned by fourth-generation grower Paul Ardzrooni, who runs the vineyard management company that Ross Cobb uses for all the vineyards where he sources fruit.

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