Wine 1020

1800 Milenio Extra Añejo Tequila.

If it feels like tequila-based drinks are popping up on cocktail lists everywhere, rest assured, you’re not hallucinating. Tequila, a spirit once consigned to shooters and, even worse, hangovers, is suddenly everyone’s favorite spirit.

As the second most popular spirit in America, only vodka has a larger share; tequila is having its long overdue moment in the spotlight. Much like bourbon, another North American original that has recently been rediscovered by drinkers, a big reason that tequila is booming is the emergence of a plethora of high-quality brands on the market.

These premium and ultra-premium tequilas from Mexico have completely transformed how people view tequila. While it still nicely fits into the party drink category, it is quickly gathering a wide array of fans as an excellent sipping liquor and the perfect base for a memorable cocktail.

The International Wine & Spirits Competition, a venerable and renowned global event, recently announced the winners of its 2024 competition. This prestigious contest, held every year in London, utilizes a blind taste-testing method to score up to 100 points. This year, out of thousands of entries, 107 bottles, including two exceptional tequilas, achieved the Gold Outstanding Medal by scoring 98 points or more. These top-scoring tequilas are both widely available for purchase.

1800 Milenio Extra Añejo Tequila

This exceptional tequila first came into production in 2000 and has been impressing judges and tequila enthusiasts regularly with its releases. Produced at the historic La Rojeña Distillery in Jalisco, Mexico’s tequila heartland, it shares its birthplace with other famous brands like Jose Cuervo and Gran Centenario. Launched in 1975, 1800 Tequila was among the pioneers in crafting premium tequilas, effectively transforming global perceptions of the spirit. The 1800 Milenio Extra Añjeo, their flagship product, is crafted from 100% blue Weber agave, which is carefully grown and harvested at the peak of maturity on family-owned estates in Tequila, Mexico. It undergoes a meticulous and prolonged aging process to achieve its distinctive quality.

After a two-year aging process in oak barrels, the beverage was further refined in French Oak Cognac barrels for a brief period, achieving a famously smooth and well-balanced flavor profile. Currently, it is available for purchase at about $249 per bottle. You can buy it here.

The judging panel commented, “Luscious stone fruit and red apple aromas lead to a perfect mix of alcohol and sweetness in taste. The experience is enriched with a profound mouthfeel and a spicy finish that lingers.”

Lunazul Primero Humosa Blanco Tequila.

Lunazul Primero Humoso Blanco Tequila

When Lunazul Tequila was launched in 2004, it was met with great anticipation. Established by Francisco Beckmann, who comes from the longest-standing tequila-producing lineage in Mexico, his goal was to craft premium, small-batch tequilas that would reveal the intricate tastes of a frequently misunderstood spirit.

To do this, Beckmann established Tierra de Agaves, a boutique distillery nestled within the expanse of the Beckmann family’s vast agave fields, one of the globe’s largest. The distillery prides itself on using only ingredients harvested from their lands, producing tequilas that have consistently won accolades for their robust taste profiles.

Lunazul Primero Humoso Blanco Tequila stands out by combining the smokiness typical of Mezcal with the smooth finish characteristic of a classic Blanco. This is epitomized by its name “humoso”, which translates to ‘smoky’ in Spanish.

This exceptional smoked tequila, crafted using a combination of mesquite wood-smoked agave and fresh blue Weber Agave, offers a distinct taste. Ideal for sipping neat or as a versatile base for various cocktails, it is available at a retail price of $29.99. You can purchase it here.

Here is what the judges had to say about it: “Fresh grass and peppermint creaminess with a whisper of smoke. Rounded and earthy, showcasing nuances of root with tropical and citrus aromatics. Smoothly rounded and balanced with vibrant fruitiness and earthy spices, revealing balsamic and citrus on the lingering finish.”

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We regularly reach out to stylish individuals with unique, discerning tastes to share the products they truly love owning. Explore more about these cool individuals here.

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Wine buckets and chillers are essential for entertaining in the warmer months. The most effective wine chillers and buckets work well both outdoors and inside, maintaining your wine at the ideal temperature for extended durations. To ensure your whites and Champagnes cool adequately, start the chilling process at least 30 minutes prior to serving.

When selecting a wine chiller or bucket, consider the materials and functionalities that will most efficiently cool your beverages. Stainless steel offers longevity, superior insulation, and ease of cleaning, though it tends to show fingerprints. Ceramic options exude elegance but can be hefty and delicate. Plastic models are affordable and light but the quality can be inconsistent. Marble provides a naturally cool surface and sustains chilly temperatures effectively.

I consulted with event planners, restaurant staff, sommeliers, and experienced hosts to gather their recommendations on wine bags, sleeves, chillers, and buckets. For those interested in additional options for keeping your wine cool, we also offer a guide to the best wine coolers and refrigerators.

This fashionable bag is endorsed by Chloe Grigri, the proprietor of the Good King Tavern in Philadelphia, who finds it perfect for BYOB occasions. Its compact size fits small spaces and is easy to carry. “These are popular in France as they are not too bulky and manage condensation well,” she comments. Grigri suggests filling the bag with ice to maintain optimal chillness, though she cautions, “Finish the wine before the ice melts.”

Matt Whitney, a wine director at Sunny’s in Miami, shares his technique for using the wine bag. “Place the bottle inside before adding lots of ice and a little water,” he instructs. “This prevents the bottle from resting unevenly on hard ice, ensuring stability and coolness.” Whitney prefers this simple, portable, and easy-to-clean system for casual gatherings, contrasting with the elegant wine buckets used in Sunny’s dining room.

According to William Eccleston, wine director at Panorama Wine Bar, these plastic wine bags are affordable, durable, compact, and easy to transport. While visiting St. Martin, he noticed their use in cafés and luxury resorts, where they were filled with ice and premium dry rosé bottles. Appreciating their practicality and style, Eccleston introduced a similar, branded ice wine bag at Panorama to efficiently use space on diners’ tables. He keeps these gel-lined bags in the freezer, using them to cool bottles of red wine from room temperature to cellar temperature within approximately 20 minutes.

If you find yourself an impromptu host and need wine chilled quickly, this Vacu Vin sleeve chills a bottle in 15 minutes, no messy ice bath needed. Just keep the sleeve in the freezer ahead of time for at least six hours, then take it out and put the wine bottle in it. CEO of The Hue Society and frequent traveling sommelier Tahiirah Habibi says the wine chiller sleeve has revolutionized her on-the-go wine experience: “Its portability, freezing speed, and elegant bottle look changed the game.” Habibi was originally drawn to its minimalist design and appreciates how well it adapted to her work style.

This CB2 Levanto marble wine chiller is a dramatic display piece. Nicole Cole, CEO and principal designer at Vestige Home, constantly seeks out unique accessories and natural materials and recommends this one because “the footed base on this particular chiller is a real standout feature. I love that it adds height to your tablescape and a more casual, earthy element through the perfectly imperfect stone,” Cole says.

D’Onna Stubblefield also loves this chiller, which fits in just as well at Bloomsday in Philadelphia, where she is a beverage director, as in her home. “I’ve used my chiller for other items like fresh-cut flowers or to store kitchen utensils,” she says. “Even when I’m not chilling my wine, it still makes for a very beautiful addition to my kitchen.”

This Crate & Barrel wine chiller has a classic look and feel that can work with any kitchen style. Like Stubblefield, Wine Convo Generator author Chasity Cooper also uses her marble wine chiller as a vase and even a utensil holder. Cooper likes wine chillers that are functional and ornamental and won’t break the bank. This one doesn’t take up a lot of space and prevents pesky bottle rings that chilled bottles can leave behind on a table, and “it blends in well with other appliances and décor.”

Tablecraft’s heavy-duty marble wine chiller eliminates the need for ice, chills very quickly, and stays cold for a long time. General manager Lawrence Gardner uses this at The Prime Rib in Philadelphia to provide guests with an elegant fine-dining experience. “Guests want to feel like they are dining in luxury, so marble is an important material to have throughout the restaurant, including countertops, tables, and bar tops, and, in this case, our wine cooler,” says Gardner.

Jordanne Pascual-Cancel, wine and service manager at New York restaurant Principe, appreciates the Wine Enthusiast bucket for its durability and ease of cleaning. It comes equipped with a table attachment that secures the wine bucket, conserves valuable table space, and prevents condensation from dripping onto the table. She advises submerging a wine bottle in a mix of ice and cold water immediately after opening it to ensure more even cooling and to prevent the bottle from tipping over,” shares Pascual-Cancel.

Cookbook author and restaurant consultant Nicole A. Taylor opts for a yellow plastic and vinyl bucket during small gatherings as it negates the need for frequent trips to the mini-fridge. It’s well-insulated with a secure top, metal knob and handle, and maintains ice cold for three to five hours. “The vibrant design and color enhance the playful decor of my vacation home in Athens, Georgia, and I have one in my Bed-Stuy apartment as well,” Taylor mentions.

This shatterproof resin material wine tub, designed to mimic alabaster with its pearly white and subtle swirls, is not only sleek but also has practical handling with its cutout features and can hold up to eight bottles. Mural City Cellars co-owner Francesca Galarus uses the lightweight tub for serving numerous guests nightly, needing to change the bottles frequently but the ice only once per shift. “It’s perfect for private-event tastings and farmer’s market setups,” she comments.

This Yeti wine chiller isn’t just practical for outdoor enthusiasts; wine experts also appreciate its extra-durable features. The stainless-steel double-wall insulation maintains a consistent temperature, the robust structure prevents damage, and the non-slip silicone base allows placement on various surfaces (rocks, sand, dirt, grass, etc.) without concern for tipping. “It holds temperature better than any other on the market that I have seen,” Terence Lewis, the beverage director at Safran Turney Hospitality, remarks. “This will hold a slightly chilled red as opposed to a cooler with ice that will actively chill the red further.”

Yeti products are recognized for their durability, attracting committed fans like Liz Einhorn, founder and CEO of Experience Threee, who has been a customer for over ten years. This wine chiller has become her preferred choice for BYOB dining in Philadelphia. She even selects wines based on their fitting in this chiller. It is compact, sturdy, and leak-proof. “I also love to give it as a gift. You can customize the exterior, and it’s something people will actually use and appreciate,” Einhorn states.

Event producer Tini Cochran from Tini Inc. recommends the Togosa, which not only keeps wine and cocktails chilled but also can enliven your tablescapes or enhance service by facilitating guests’ easy access to their drinks. She often employs this dual-purpose wine chiller and pitcher in Texas and New Orleans, where she notes, “it keeps the drinks cold and my stuff dry,” despite intense heat waves and condensation. The Togosa, with triple insulation like a thermos, retains temperatures for up to 48 hours (simply pre-chill your bottle), includes a lockable lid to secure a wine bottle while serving, and comes with a leakproof strainer attachment for portable drinks holding up to 49 ounces of liquid. “The fun colors enhance different décor styles, but it’s my secret weapon for keeping the wine ice cold before serving in glasses at my park dinners or beach outings, rather than using a bulky cooler.”

Alex Cahanap, founder and creative director of Citrine Tablescapes, favors this stainless-steel Society6 wine chiller, particularly because it doubles as both a wine chiller and décor at her BYOB dinner parties and events. She admires the distinctive wraparound designs created by independent artists and the chiller’s ability to maintain wine cool for hours (she places the wine chiller in the freezer for about 30 minutes before use). “They are the epitome of marrying practicality with a splash of artistic flair,” she comments.

This Champagne cooler from Couzon presents a more refined option for those who frequently host gatherings, also serving as an ideal gift for special occasions. It accommodates the largest of Champagne bottles, white wine bottles, and ample ice. Rebecca Hopkins, a wine marketer and the founder of A Balanced Glass, came across this cooler at a social event where magnums of wine were being served. According to Hopkins, its 18/10 stainless-steel composition and double-wall insulation signify superior construction quality, ensuring excellent temperature maintenance and reduced table condensation. For any remaining moisture, she suggests, “Place a service napkin or a felt coaster underneath the bucket to absorb condensation and safeguard the table surface.”

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PTL’s Katie O’Malley travels to the mountains for an early look at the annual Seven Springs Wine Festival.

Many people probably picture Provence when they think of rose wine, but there are so many other countries that produce this perfect summer wine.

And one of them can be found right next door to France in another idyllic wine-producing country – Italy.

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A close-up photo of pinot noir grapes.

Pinot noir, celebrated for its adaptability and smooth taste, remarkably mirrors the characteristics of its growth environment, endearing it to both winemakers and wine enthusiasts.

With origins dating back over a millennium, pinot noir is famously rooted in France’s Burgundy region. Cultivated since the times of the Romans, it is one of the most esteemed varieties of the region. The grape’s thin skin and disease vulnerability make it a challenging cultivar, often referred to as the “heartbreak grape.” Yet, under ideal conditions, it yields wines with incredible complexity and richness.

There has been a resurgence of interest in pinot noir recently, prompted by an increased recognition of its sophistication and compatibility with various cuisines. Winemakers across the globe are exploring clones and methods to enhance its natural characteristics. Furthermore, there is a growing trend toward sustainable and organic farming practices aimed at achieving more authentic representations of pinot noir.

While Burgundy remains the benchmark for pinot noir, this grape has found success in various corners of the globe.

Pinot noir makes up a substantial part of the U.S. wine market. In 2023, it was the third-most planted grape variety by acreage in California. And just to the north in Oregon, more than half of all the state’s planted grapes in 2022 were pinot noir, accounting for 60% of vines in the state.

New Zealand’s Central Otago and Marlborough regions are also gaining recognition for their vibrant and expressive interpretations of this grape.

As climate change poses challenges for grape growing, the future of pinot noir may see further shifts in where and how it is cultivated.

What makes pinot noir so special? It’s the grape’s remarkable ability to express the nuances of its terroir. The best pinot noirs are known for their complex aromas, often featuring red and black fruits, floral notes and a hint of earthiness or minerality. On the palate, they are typically light to medium-bodied, with bright acidity and silky tannins. This makes pinot noir a versatile pairing for a wide range of foods, from roasted poultry and salmon to mushroom dishes and soft cheeses.

And being a lighter red, pinot noir is a sublime choice for red wine drinkers looking for a bottle that isn’t too overpowering during these hot and heavy summer months. Here are five bottles below that exemplify a solid pinot noir.

At approximately 10% the size of Bordeaux, Burgundy is a small yet significant region renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. It is also the home of Maison Louis Latour, a family-run wine producer with over 200 years of history. Maison Louis Latour excels in crafting Burgundy wines and holds the largest collection of Grand Cru vineyards in the region, offering a wide range of price points suitable for newcomers to French wine. Among their notable wines is the 2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, featuring a dark ruby hue, a nose of red fruit and aromas of blackcurrant. This wine pairs well with grilled meat and aged cheeses.

This one is an ideal choice for summer grilling, thanks to its versatile and complex flavor profile that features bright red fruits and a smooth texture. These elements pair well with various BBQ dishes, while its spicy and smoky notes complement grilled foods perfectly. Touted as a benchmark for Oregon pinot noirs, the Ponzi Vineyards 2022 Laurelwood pinot noir is crafted from sustainably farmed vineyards, adding to its appeal. The Ponzi family has been producing pinot noir for over 50 years, cultivating 140 acres of certified sustainable vineyards on Laurelwood soils in the Willamette Valley. The Laurelwood District AVA, pioneered by sisters Maria and Luisa Ponzi, features ancient fractured basalts layered with fine loess, imparting unique characteristics to their wines, making this pinot noir a sophisticated yet approachable option for social celebrations.

Reed and Megan Skupny’s Rockhound Wine, a new venture from the second generation of the family-run Napa Valley winery Lang & Reed, launched a few years ago with a mission to produce innovative wines that defy traditional boundaries in the wine industry. Their 2021 pinot noir, sourced from the Radian Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills in Southern California, was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels. This full-bodied wine showcases hints of balsam and strawberries, with flavors of bramble berry pie, dark chocolate and coffee nibs on the finish. The wine, with an alcohol content of 15.3%, is ideally served slightly chilled in warmer weather with a Niçoise salad or during winter with braised lamb shanks and parmesan polenta.

Founded in 1962 by viticulturist Dr. Konstantin Frank, this Finger Lakes winery revolutionized New York state and American viticulture at large by introducing wine grape plants to the Eastern United States. Now led by fourth-generation Meaghan Frank and her father, Frederick Frank, the winery continues to innovate with a diverse portfolio, including traditional method sparkling wines, ancient Georgian varieties and renowned rieslings and pinot noirs that highlight the Finger Lakes terroir. The winery’s original pinot noir vines, planted in 1958, produce lovely wines with notes of cranberries, cherries and subtle oak notes. This light-bodied 2021 pinot noir pairs well with foods like mushrooms, grilled chicken or tuna, pork tenderloin and seared salmon.

Yering Station was the first vineyard with vines planted in 1838 in the state of Victoria in southeastern Australia. Situated in the Yarra Valley, the estate encompasses five vineyard sites across the Yarra Glen and Coldstream sub-regions, benefiting from elevations of 150 to 1,500 feet. Acquired by the Rathbone family in 1996, Yering Station has achieved international acclaim for its viticultural innovation and sustainability practices. Renowned for producing top cool-climate pinot noir (as well as chardonnay and shiraz), the winery’s 2021 pinot noir showcases an elegant tannin structure, bright acidity, and a berry fruit profile, enhanced by 10 months of barrel fermentation in new and used French oak, which imparts warmth and spice notes.

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Low Alcohol and No-Alcohol wines are an increasing challenge to the wine industry

The wine industry is encountering challenging winds. We recently spoke with notable British wine critic Robert Joseph to gain new insights.

Robert Joseph, a highly regarded British wine critic, journalist, and writer, started his career in the 1980s with wine journalism, co-creating Wine International magazine and initiating the International Wine Challenge, one of the most prestigious wine contests globally.

Joseph has written multiple books about wine, including The Complete Encyclopedia of Wine and Robert Joseph’s Ultimate Wine Companion. He routinely writes columns for various wine magazines and has been featured on television multiple times.

In addition to critiquing, Joseph has a deep-seated passion for viticulture. He helped establish the globally recognized wine label Le Grand Noir and often provides consulting services.

JM: You’ve asserted that the wine industry places too much emphasis on consumer education, suggesting that one doesn’t need to be a leather expert to purchase shoes but simply must find shoes they appreciate. How do you believe the industry should aid consumers in discovering wines they enjoy instead of focusing on education?

RJ: The wine sector can draw lessons from the spirits industry, which seldom concentrates on educating consumers about the production differences between spirits like gin, vodka, and rum; similarly, Champagne producers focus on crafting appealing products. Take Aperol Spritz enthusiasts for example; few know about its origins or production process, but they delight in the drink’s taste and appearance. Some wine brands like Whispering Angel and Barefoot have successfully adopted this consumer-centric approach, catering to varied price segments.

Barefoot Wines Range of Sweet and Fruity Wines

JM: It’s estimated that 85% or more of the wine industry’s sales are at price points below $20. Does the wine media adequately cover lower-priced wines, or is there too much emphasis on the expensive, plus-$20 wines that most consumers do not buy?

RJ: The wine media – which, as a critic, I was once part of – quite reasonably focuses on what it sees as the more ‘interesting’ wines, just as automotive writers don’t spend quite as much time on the latest cheap Nissan as on the exciting new BMW.

But my favorite critic in any domain—the movie critic Roger Ebert—wasn’t like that. He was as ready to cover new teen flicks as the latest Scorsese. So, yes, we do need more writers looking at entry-level wines, but with an eye to whether they are ‘fit-for-purpose’ rather than whether they match up to a different set of quality criteria. Their failure to do this has opened the door to Vivino and influencers who are happy to do the job for them.

JM: Wine competitions are held globally, with awards from prestigious events significantly boosting new brands. The judges in these events are typically professionals with extensive credentials in the wine industry, credentials obtained after intensive studies and tests. However, one might question whether these judges align well with the tastes and values of regular wine consumers when it comes to everyday purchases.

RJ: As a founder of the IWC and a board member at Mundus Vini in Germany, I speak cautiously. The judges in these competitions focus on determining the absolute quality of the wines, which is a crucial aspect similar to evaluating performances in the Olympics or dog shows.

But it’s important to remember that the typical consumer does not purchase wine ‘blind’ as done in these competitions. Consumers see the label, know the region, grape, brand, and price, which all influence their purchasing decisions. Consequently, a medal from a competition or a critic’s rating is just one factor among many that a consumer may consider.

JM: In North America, wine sales have been relatively stagnant over the past five years. Sales of red wine have slightly dipped, while sales of white wine have seen a small rise. Rosé wines, starting from a small base, have seen a sharp increase in volume, though this growth rate has notably slowed. These trends raise the question of whether there are shifting demand patterns for wine or if this signals a persistent flat to downward trend in the market.

RJ: The shift to pink and white and sparkling is interesting because it reveals the way wine has become a, quite possibly, simple beverage rather than a complicated accompaniment to food. People know they like, or don’t like – Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc and order accordingly.

With rosé, it’s even simpler: dry or sweet. Who knows the grape behind the pink wine in their glass? Who cares? It is interesting to consider the position of Red Blends in the US market. These fill a similar role: a predictable drink.

Friends are having a celebratory toast of rosé wine together during a party.

Of course, plenty of people love complexity and are eager to try Georgian Qvevri wines and French Pet Nat. But these people are the exceptions to the wine-drinking rule—despite the space that’s quite reasonably dedicated to them by the wine media.

JM: How has the introduction of canned wines, including flavored wines, changed the dynamics of the wine marketplace? Is it resulting in a net expansion of the market or driving a migration to lower price points?

RJ: These products aren’t necessarily cheap. But they fit my narrative of helping reposition wine as a beverage rather than a ‘noble’, complex product that must be taken seriously. I see no reason to imagine they will disappear despite the wishes of many wine conservatives.

JM: Younger consumers seem less interested in wine consumption. Roughly a third of Gen Z consumers say they prefer no alcohol or low-alcohol beverages. How should the wine industry respond to this generational preference?

RJ: There are two answers. 1) embrace this and produce lo-no wine-based drinks to satisfy their demand. I am unashamedly doing with a le Grand Noir 0.0% extension to our range. 2) promote the unique, historic qualities of wine that make it such a great convivial product and such a delicious partner to food.

1) and 2) are not mutually exclusive. Evidence suggests that individuals who enjoy non-alcoholic beverages often drink alcoholic ones too, sometimes within the same event. It would be great to see someone start their evening with a glass of le Grand Noir 0.0% Blanc and then move on to enjoy a 12.5% le Grand Noir Pinot Noir with dinner, or perhaps as a subsequent drink.

JM: Baby boomers had a preference for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Are the Millennials and subsequent generations leaning towards different varieties like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc? Has the wine industry adapted to these shifting preferences?

RJ: The situation isn’t black and white. Indeed, the younger contingent is gravitating towards the lighter and fresher taste profiles of Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Prosecco, and Pinot Noir. However, it’s premature to dismiss the relevance of Cabernet and Chardonnay just yet.

As mentioned previously about Red Blends, I believe alternatives will become increasingly popular. I am currently developing a wine in Georgia named K’AVSHIRI, which incorporates a mix of Georgian grape varieties, winemaking techniques, regions, and vintages. This wine challenges conventional norms, setting a precedent that I anticipate others will emulate.

JM: Are we producing an excess of wine, and is it priced too high?

RJ: Given the overall consumption levels worldwide, it’s clear that the wine production has been excessive for some time. It’s only recently that this has become widely acknowledged. Moreover, a significant amount of wine is sold too cheaply, yielding minimal profits, a situation made even more precarious by climate uncertainties.

There’s a growing trend where the younger generation in European wine-making families are reluctant to follow in their parents’ footsteps. Consequently, I anticipate a decrease in production by 15-20%, primarily affecting the lower end of the market. Large-scale producers like Gallo and European cooperatives, which are structured to produce inexpensive wine, will dominate this segment.

At the high end of the market, esteemed wines, akin to top-tier restaurants and luxury fashion brands, will likely endure. Those positioned in the middle, however, may face significant challenges.

Are they priced low enough to draw in consumers unwilling or unable to spend beyond $12-15? Do they have sufficient marketing to appeal to those with larger budgets? This circles back to the beginning. Spirits and beer brands possess margins that allow for marketing, justifying the high prices that sustain these margins. Many wine businesses lack adequate funds.

JM: Thank you.

Enjoying the Taste of Wine with Cigars

Many believe that whiskey is the best companion for a cigar, but in Sonoma County, a circle of enthusiasts argues that wine is the superior choice. During a recent ‘Summer Smoke’ dinner event at Rodney Strong Winery, I had the chance to engage with several proponents of this pairing and delve into their reasoning.

The gathering saw a partnership between Rodney Strong and Squire Cigars, a business in Santa Rosa, California, currently marking its 50^th anniversary. General Manager Kim Squire, whose parents, Barney and Linda Squire, founded the company, shared insightful perspectives on this debate.

“Traditionally, people associate whiskey or rum with cigars as the ideal pairing. However, considering the variety of cigar strengths, pairing them with something milder like wine can actually enhance the experience, making it a better complement to the cigars than other beverages,” she noted.

To demonstrate her perspective, Kim presented four distinct types of cigars each paired with a selection from Rodney Strong wines. The attendees had the option to try these pairings with a small sample of cigar and a taste of wine, or to indulge in a full-sized cigar.

Rodney Strong is particularly renowned for its award-winning cabernet sauvignon wines from Alexander Valley, most notably the Bordeaux blend known as Symmetry which retails for $70 per bottle. While highlighting cigar pairings for these specific wines, Kim also explored possible pairings with other Rodney Strong varietals such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, and port, pairing two of these as well.

Portfolio of Wines Crafted by Rodney Strong Winery

Below are the four Rodney Strong wines that Kim Squire paired with cigars:

#1 – Rodney Strong Symmetry paired with Davidoff Winston Churchill Cigar – The deep and complex flavors of berries, earth, and coffee in this cabernet blend complement the robust tastes of pepper, cream, dark chocolate, and coffee found in the Churchill cigar.

#2 – Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon with Aladino Corojo Cigar – Bursting with notes of black currants, plum, boysenberry, cedar, and a touch of mocha, this refined cabernet pairs beautifully with the Aladino Corojo cigar. This cigar offers a bouquet of sweet spice, cocoa, cedar, and floral nuances.

#3 – Rodney Strong Pinot Noir with Arturo Fuente Hemingway Cigar – The velvety black cherry and spice flavors of the pinot noir are perfectly matched with the lighter, creamy sweetness and subtle pepper notes of the Hemingway cigar.

#4 – Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc with Avo XO Cigar – For those who favor white wine, the crisp and aromatic grapefruit, floral, and pear notes of the sauvignon blanc pair exquisitely with the smooth, mild flavors of the XO cigar, which highlights hints of salty cashews, cream, cedar, sweet molasses, leather, and spice.

Some of the Cigars Served at the Wine & Cigar Pairing Event at Rodney Strong

The ‘Summer Smoke’ event at Rodney Strong winery featured a family-style dinner and was conducted outdoors on a large grassy area with a picturesque view of the vineyards in Sonoma County. Although not everyone at the fully booked event engaged in both the cigar and wine tastings (with a select few opting solely for wine-tasting), the cigar enthusiasts found much to enjoy.

“A cigar is a wonderful addition to the wine-pairing journey. A youthful Cabernet, rich with bold fruits and sturdy tannins, pairs exceptionally well with an earthy Robusto,” explained Palmer Emmitt, Owner and Winemaker at Emmitt-Scorsone Wines, as he explored various cigar and wine combinations.

Christopher O’Gorman, Senior Director of Communications at Rodney Strong Wine Estates, also enjoys the dynamic between wine and cigars. “Exceptional wine paired with fine cigars is like a match made in heaven. Both possess intricate flavors that echo their origins and cover a broad range of aromas and textures, from delicate and smooth to rich and robust,” he noted.

Guests Relaxing on the Lawn at the Wine & Cigar Pairing Event at Rodney Strong Winery

But Rodney Strong winemaker, Olivia Wright, decided not to participate in the pairing, though she did an excellent job describing the wines to guests.

“I don’t smoke cigars, but our proprietor, Tom Klein, greatly enjoys them – especially with wine, and so do many of our winery customers,” stated Olivia Wright, Winemaker with Rodney Strong Wine Estates.

“Also, I know that we all have different palates, and so if people enjoy pairing wine with cigars, I think that is wonderful. The world of wine will be a better place if we get rid of rules about what people should and shouldn’t like about wine pairing,” she added.

Interestingly both Squire Cigars and Rodney Strong winery are family owned businesses, with Squire Cigars first opening their doors in 1974 and Rodney Strong established in 1959. Recently, Squire Cigars introduced wine lockers to their cigar shop, enabling customers to receive advice on selecting the best wine from their lockers to pair with cigars.

“Wine and cigars just go together,” mentioned Kim Squires, “so why not offer wine lockers at our cigar shop? Truly, people are missing out if they don’t pair their wine with cigars.”

Actor George Hamilton epitomizes the elegance of pairing different types of wine and cigars.

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Ever wondered what’s inside a bottle of wine? Naturally, grapes come to mind. But isn’t it just wine, not some fruit-infused vodka mix?

Consider this—there are over 60 possible additives approved by the government that could be in wine. These include elements like gum arabic from acacia tree sap, albumen from egg whites, isinglass made from fish bladders, and even polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, which is a type of industrial glue. The term Special blend just gained a whole new dimension.

One might think it’s logical to list these substances clearly on the wine bottle’s label. But when I first advocated for ingredient and nutrition labels on wine bottles back in the early 2000s, the response from industry leaders was less than encouraging. The head of a major wine organization dismissed the idea as confusing for consumers—who, according to him, weren’t interested in that information anyway. A prominent U.S. wine journalist commented that most wine drinkers wouldn’t comprehend the details anyway.

Given such resistance, it’s no surprise that, almost two decades later, despite continuous efforts by federal regulators, wine still lacks mandatory nutrition and ingredient labelling. It’s one of the few major consumer products without such requirements. For context, during this period, we have witnessed significant historical and technological advancements—from the election of the first African American president to the mainstream adoption of doorbells with cameras and the Chicago Cubs winning their first World Series in over a century. Yet, information on wine bottles remains limited.

“For over two decades, I doubted whether my advocacy for ingredient labeling on wines would have any tangible impact,” shared Randall Grahm, a revolutionary winemaker from California who has persistently championed this cause. “The lack of interest within the wine sector made our efforts seem even more daunting.”

This year, however, marks a pivotal change. With renewed attempts from regulators to mandate these labels, the surprising twist is the industry’s lack of resistance. This shift is attributed partially to declining wine sales and interest, particularly outside the baby boomer demographic, in conjunction with a surplus of unsold and unharvested grapes. It appears the industry is now willing to experiment with transparency in labeling, hoping it might alleviate some of their financial difficulties.

I can only echo the sentiment that disclosing ingredients in wine is a logical step. It is regrettable, however, that it has taken two decades to reach this conclusion.

The push for ingredient labeling began roughly in 2003 when the Tax and Trade Bureau, part of the U.S. Treasury Department responsible for alcohol regulation, introduced this initiative. Given alcohol oversight falls under their jurisdiction rather than the Food and Drug Administration, they aimed to replicate the clarity seen in grocery staples like ketchup and cream-of-mushroom soup through a comprehensive ingredients listing on alcoholic beverages including wine, beer, and spirits. Michael Kaiser, involved in government affairs with the Wine America trade group, recalls the origin of this regulatory proposal, though details of the exact time seem faded by years.

Was this request unreasonable? According to Jamie Mok, a spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, it wasn’t. “From a dietitian’s perspective,” she notes, “the goal is to educate and increase awareness about what is in our food so that individuals can make informed decisions about their health.” This may include essential details like sugar content for diabetics or hidden allergens such as eggs and nuts.

However, the backlash in 2003, which generated 34 pages of comments, might make one think the TTB was attempting to reinstate Prohibition. One notable backlash came from the Wine Institute, which argued that nutritional labels were ineffective, pointing out that obesity rates in America had soared despite their introduction in the 1990s. Such a drastic viewpoint essentially suggested discarding the proposal altogether, urging the government to consider “reasonable alternatives.”

The concept of transparency seemed to lose its value here. Grahm believed that the term reasonable was more about excusing winemaking compromises than enhancing product quality. “If winemakers had to disclose all substances used in wine production, the approach to winemaking would likely become more cautious and deliberate,” he argues. “This would not only enhance the general quality of wine but also lead to the production of more unique wines.”

Opponents also argued against ingredient listing, citing problems such as ‘label clutter.’ Winery back labels were already crowded with UPC codes and promotional text; where would nutritional facts and ingredients fit? Indeed, the industry prioritized enticing descriptions like “flavors of gooseberry and lychee nuts” over conveying nutritional data.

My preferred strategy for discussion? Wine, consumed purely for enjoyment, doesn’t necessitate informational labels! This idea stems from a viewpoint expressed in a 2014 article by two lawyers in a trade magazine that no longer exists. This argument, known as the “Wine Is Art” claim, suggests that wine should be treated differently from other consumer products, warranting an exemption from typical labeling requirements. As reported in a 2019 study, it was found that consumers felt uncertain and bewildered about ingredient disclosures on wine, which in turn, diminished its perceived naturalness.

The wine industry did have some reasonable worries, however. It was unclear how the TTB would manage to regulate labeling on imported wines, which make up about 40 percent of the wine sold in the U.S. Crucially, the requirement for annual label updates due to vintage changes could be economically draining for the approximately 11,000 small wineries across the country. While the biggest 100 wineries, responsible for 90 percent of U.S. wine production, wouldn’t be significantly impacted financially, a tiny winery producing merely 500 to 1,000 cases annually could incur considerable costs if required to update labels yearly.

Not to be overlooked were the objections from the beer and spirits sectors, particularly from craft beer producers. These producers were against listing calorie content because hop-rich craft beers can contain up to 50 percent more calories than standard beers. They also contested the TTB’s method for determining serving sizes based on alcohol content; the higher the alcohol percentage, the smaller the deemed serving size. Most beers hold about 5 percent alcohol, yet craft brews can have much higher alcohol levels. Craft beer makers resisted the idea that a single bottle of their 9 percent alcohol beer might count as two servings, contrasting with mainstream beers of similar size being considered a single serving.

Hence, the proposal remained just a proposal until 2016.

When the TTB introduced a rule permitting optional labeling, a select few international beer and spirits manufacturers adopted it, but the bulk of wine producers chose to disregard it. This decision led to two outcomes: firstly, Kaiser of the Wine America group declared the matter resolved, with those desiring labels free to use them, while others could maintain the status quo. Secondly, individuals like Grahm believed this signaled the conclusion of mandatory labeling initiatives.

However, subsequent developments over the next few years prompted the TTB to reconsider its stance, with the two leading wine industry organizations eventually offering their backing. In 2022, three consumer advocacy organizations, including the Center for Science in the Public Interest, initiated a lawsuit against the Treasury Department to enforce the implementation of alcohol labeling proposed in the early 2000s. While legal experts were divided on the lawsuit’s potential success, the action signaled to groups like Wine America the substantial consumer interest in labeling. Kaiser noted, “All market research indicates that consumers desire this. We just need to find a method that introduces labels without economically straining the industry.”

The European Union offers an example, having mandated ingredient and nutrition labeling by the end of 2023, a regulation that also applies to U.S. wines sold within its borders. To alleviate the financial burden on smaller wineries, the EU adopted a UPC code system that links to a winery’s website. This code remains the same across vintages, allowing wineries to update label information online, thus eliminating the need for new print runs.

But perhaps the most important event is the 2-year-old—and still-going-strong—wine slump and what appears to be little enthusiasm among younger cohorts for red, white, or anything else. Mok says those younger consumers prefer ingredient transparency, especially for things like added sugar and nonvegetarian ingredients. Not surprisingly, two urban myths have emerged in the past decade or so, directly related to the lack of labels: that wine is full of added sugar, when, in fact, most of the sugar disappears during fermentation; and that wine uses animal products for filtering, when almost all wine is filtered through a gravel-like product called bentonite.

So where are we today? How soon can you expect to see a proper label on your favorite bottle? The TTB has outlined a process to first add fact boxes and allergen warnings, followed by ingredient labels. It includes a period for public comment as well as what are called listening sessions, during which TTB staff can talk to producers about the proposal. The timeline is vague, says Kaiser—maybe by the end of 2025, maybe longer. And it could also change depending on the results of the presidential election in November; a GOP victory could further slow the process.

For those of us who have been waiting two decades for labels, this isn’t the best news. But a process is more than we’ve had, and as long as we keep the process moving, we can get the change we want—and that the wine business needs. Just think: In a few years, you might be able to gaze into your evening glass and fully appreciate what’s in there—lovingly harvested grapes, fish bladder derivatives, and so much more besides.

It’s already been two decades since “Sideways” pals Miles and Jack toured the Santa Inez Valley north of Santa Barbara and Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, declared, “I am not drinking any fucking merlot!”

But what did Miles and Jack, played by Thomas Haden Church, drink instead of merlot, which was deemed too mundane for their elevated tastes? Pinot noir, and lots of it! In Searchlight’s 2004 comedy, which is set to stream on Hulu this fall, the wine-obsessed duo sip and dine at the Hitching Post 2 restaurant in Buellton. Now, the Hitching Post is getting ready for the 20 year anniversary by hosting three Hitching Post + Sideways winemaker dinners and releasing a special edition pinot noir.

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Hitching Post 2 chef and winemaker Frank Ostini and winemaker Gray Hartley of Hitching Post Wines are hosting anniversary events along with Santa Barbara’s La Paloma Cafe, Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley, CIA at Copia and L.A.’s Jar restaurant.

Hitching Post’s Highliner Pinot Noir, which was featured in the movie, will get a special label for the 2021 vintage to commemorate the anniversary. The special bottles will be available at the restaurant, the Hitching Post tasting room and at select retailers. For the true “Sideways” aficionados, a three-bottle “As Seen in Sideways” set includes the 2001 Hitching Post Pinot Noir Bien Nacido, 2001 Hitching Post Pinot Noir Highliner and 2021 Hitching Post Pinot Noir Highliner for $650.

Details on the winemaker dinners and other events are as follows:

Sunday, Sept. 15
Hitching Post + Sideways Winemaker Dinner at the Hitching Post 2
Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley host a 20th Anniversary Sideways dinner with a signature menu from the Hitching Post 2 paired with special edition Pinot Noir vintages celebrating the film.
$150 per person
Reserve with OpenTable Experience

Tuesday, Sept. 24
Hitching Post + Sideways Winemaker Dinner at La Paloma Cafe
Executive Chef Jeremy Tummel hosts Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley for a 20th Anniversary Sideways dinner with a menu inspired by the Hitching Post 2 paired with special edition Pinot Noir vintages celebrating the film.
La Paloma Cafe
702 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara
$110
Reserve with RESY

Sunday, Sept. 29
Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley – “Sideways” 20th Anniversary Festival
One of the highlights of the four-day festival in the Santa Ynez Valley is the celebration of the 20th anniversary of the award-winning film “Sideways.” There will be bites from Hitching Post 2 and other Buellton restaurants, along with Sta. Rita Hills and Buellton wine, beer, and live music. Look for an appearance by Virginia Madsen.
Tickets include the “Sideways” screening at Solvang Festival Theater.
$150

Saturday, Oct. 12
Copia at Culinary Institute of America, Napa
Screening of “Sideways” followed by a Q&A panel with director Alexander Payne and actor Virginia Madsen. Frank Ostini is special guest.

Tuesday, Oct. 29
Hitching Post + “Sideways” Winemaker Dinner at Jar
Chef/Owner Suzanne Tracht hosts Hitching Post Wines’ Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley for a 20th Anniversary Sideways dinner with a menu inspired by the Hitching Post 2 paired with special edition Pinot Noir vintages celebrating the film.
Jar, 8225 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles
$200 inclusive of menu & wines plus tax & gratuity
Reserve with OpenTable Experience

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Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Albariño, 14.2%, $38, 4.5 stars. A fresh and vibrant Albariño featuring a blend of citrus and tropical flavors. Highlights include pineapple, orange zest, and mineral elements. Remarkable.

Chappellet, 2023 Signature, Napa Valley Chenin Blanc, 14.1%, $75, 4 stars. This Chenin Blanc presents layers of Meyer lemon, quince, and nectarine. It maintains a balanced profile with a crisp finish. Charming.

Cormorant, 2023 Fenaughty Vineyard, El Dorado County Vermentino, 12.4%, $28, 4 stars. This Vermentino offers delightful aromas of white peach, lime, and grapefruit. Ends with a crisp finish. Attractive.

Longboard Vineyards, 2023 Elieo Vineyard, Russian River Valley Albarino, 13.1%, $36, 4 stars. This Albariño is bursting with lively citrus, stone fruit, and mineral notes, supported by a crisp acidity, making it exceptionally well-made.

The esteemed Shozaburo Dogura, a pioneering entrepreneur and initially among Japan’s conservationists, would undoubtedly appreciate the dedication shown by his great granddaughter, Miki Cunat, through her role in developing a collection of wines at Napa’s Materra Cunat Family Vineyards honoring his legacy.

One highlight from this collection is the Albariño titled Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley, priced at $38. This Wine of the Week recipient, crafted by Director of Winemaking Chelsea Barrett, showcases a vibrant and refreshing profile with flavors of pineapple, orange zest, and mineral undertones.

The name Yamabuki originates from a bright yellow flower in the rose family that blossoms from April to May in Japan. In Hanakotoba, the Japanese language of flowers, Yamabuki symbolizes “elegance” and “luck with money,” aptly reflecting Dogura’s prosperous life.

Besides his environmental initiatives, Dogura contributed significantly to infrastructure development including road construction in Japan and railroad projects in Taiwan. He also supported several newspapers and played a role in founding significant educational institutions such as Nihon Joshi Daigaku, Japan’s inaugural women’s university, and Doshisha University.

Albariño, a white grape from Galicia in northwest Spain, is seldom found in California vineyards.

“Albariño is quite unique for our area, providing an exotic flavor for many patrons,” said Barrett. “It’s a wonderful wine that pairs splendidly with various dishes, including seafood, dishes with tomato bases, and notably, paella.”

In 2020, the Napa winery started cultivating Albariño vines, with the first batch of these vines being bottled in 2023.

“Cultivating young vines requires attention to develop strong roots and canopy systems,” Barrett noted. “We have excellent conditions on our land and 2023 has been a particularly favorable year for growth.”

Barrett, originally from Calistoga, completed her viticulture and enology studies at UC Davis in 2010. Following her graduation, she worked at Opus One in Oakville and then at Joel Gott Wines, in Napa and St. Helena. She later joined forces with Heidi Barrett, her mother, on various labels including Amuse Bouche, Au Sommet, and Aviatrix in Calistoga, before managing winemaking operations at Materra starting in 2019.

Materra, established by Brian and Miki Cunat in 2007, produces under 10,000 cases of wine annually. The vineyard’s production includes varieties such as Albariño, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Syrah.

In June, a newly constructed 10,000-square-foot tasting and event facility was unveiled at the winery. The venue, designed with both indoor and outdoor tasting areas, boasts 25-foot high ceilings, dormer windows, and a covered patio.

The grand gallery room regularly updates its exhibits, showcasing a collection of the Cunat family’s valued possessions ranging from Japanese artifacts to classic automobiles. The facility also features a private event space and a catering kitchen.

The vision is to have a full-time chef, who will pair traditional Japanese dishes with the winery’s Japanese series of wines.

“We’re extremely excited to welcome guests for a sneak peek of our newly opened tasting room,” said Barrett, adding that the Yamabuki Albariño is one of the most intriguing in the lineup.

“It’s wonderful, because our property is very conducive to growing phenomenal Albariño,” she said.

You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On X (Twitter) @pegmelnik.

Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Albariño, 14.2%, $38, 4.5 stars. Delicately flavored with a blend of citrus and tropical fruits, this Albariño showcases hints of pineapple, orange zest, and mineral elements in a fresh and appealing style.

Chappellet, 2023 Signature, Napa Valley Chenin Blanc, 14.1%, $75, 4 stars. Featuring aromatic layers of Meyer lemon, quince, and nectarine, this Chenin Blanc offers a balanced and crisp finish, exuding charm with every sip.

Cormorant, 2023 Fenaughty Vineyard, El Dorado County Vermentino, 12.4%, $28, 4 stars. This Vermentino presents delightful aromas of white peach, lime, and grapefruit, culminating in a crisp finish that enhances its elegance.

Longboard Vineyards, 2023 Elieo Vineyard, Russian River Valley Albarino, 13.1%, $36, 4 stars. Exhibiting a vibrant mix of citrus, stone fruit, and mineral notes, this Albariño is crafted expertly with a zesty acidity, making it exceptionally refined.