Wine 1004
From Passion Project to Vintner’s Paradise: How One Couple Built a Wine Kingdom in Connecticut
Michael and Merrily Connor, enjoying their little kingdom in Stonington, Connecticut.
For many, life’s second-act may look more like a snail’s pace kind of day at the beach with a little sunshine and a lot of relaxation. It’s meant to be the ultimate period of switching from overdrive to, well, no drive. Right? For Michael and Merrily Connery, however, they did shift gears, but instead of slowing down, they swapped the go-go-go of city-life for spectacular stony views and fields of potential. From the ground up, along the southeastern, Connecticut shoreline, the Connery’s built a wine lover’s paradise.
With style akin to those in British Vogue, the 70-something year-olds traded rows of offices and long careers in law and real-estate, for rows of vines and wine glasses. The creation of Saltwater Farm and Kingdom of the Hawk vineyards became the fruits of their labor during ages when most yearn for a powerful remote and comfy recliner.
Three of the winery’s most popular selections: Raptor Red, Wayward White, and their Pinto Noir Rose.
The couple met in college while living in Washington DC in the 1960s. After marrying, and moving around between DC, Cincinnati, and Bridgeport, Connecticut while establishing their careers, they settled upon the hustle and bustle of New York.
Many years later, in 2001, they stumbled upon 108 acres on the water in Stonington and began dreaming. The dilapidated, World War Two-era private airplane hangar soon became the home of Saltwater Farm Vineyard, the couple’s first endeavor into the world of vinting. They restored the hangar and began planting vines.
Being familiar with the North Fork of Long Island, which boasts a similar climate, the couple had an idea of what could grow in the rocky soil on their Connecticut property, however sought expertise. “Once the CT Department of Agriculture deemed our soil suitable for growing vines—where there were once fields of hay,” said Michael, “we then sought guidance from Steve Mudd, who’s considered the ‘godfather’ of growing grapes on Long Island.”
The rest is history…
Kingdom of the Hawk Vineyard, Stonington, Connecticut.
Along with wine maker, Gilles Martin, part of Sparkling Pointe on Long Island, the Connerys began making wine suitable to the terroir and climate. The venue soon became popular, not only for wine-tasting, but as a sought-after site for weddings.
With one thriving vineyard and event space, and nearly 20 years under their belts, they were ready for another project. In 2018, they purchased 50 acres of open land in North Stonington—a few miles from Saltwater—and opened Kingdom of the Hawk. With eyes always on design, the couple reimagined the idea of a classic barn for their latest vineyard. Steel beams, vaulted ceilings, concrete floors, and its now iconic archway are all nods to their first foray into wine at Saltwater Farm. The dramatic new structure is a showcase of sleek, contemporary architectural design, surrounded by vines and the area’s rugged rocky vistas.
It’s no surprise that both vineyards check many boxes for weddings of all shapes and sizes. The venues strike a balance between intimate and expansive, and appeal to many with their natural, minimalist aesthetic and stunning views.
Sleek and chic against the night sky, Kingdom of the Hawk befits its majestic name.
Kingdom of the Hawk produces a selection of Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blanc, several Rosés, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, a Bordeaux-like blend of Cab Franc and Merlot. They also create another red blend, their Raptor Red, made with four different grapes.
Given the proximity to the shore, and the rich, locally-sourced options, the couple often pair their wines with seafood.
“Our Sauvignon Blanc is delightful with Ninigret oysters,” mentioned Michael. Or, with a lightly chilled Pinot Noir, we enjoy salmon from J & R Seafood, whether pan sautéed, grilled or baked it pairs perfectly,” said Merrily. “A favorite recipe with corn, tomato and shrimp is perfectly complimented by our Pinot Noir Rosé; and we are fond of a variety of Merguez lamb sausage which cries out for our Raptor Red,” she continued.
Diving into the world of making wine may not be the first, second, or any choice for people of “retirement age,” a construct many today, however, are choosing to flip on its head. But for the Connerys, who’ve chosen to spend this time creating beautiful, community spaces for moments of celebration or just being one with nature, they couldn’t imagine this chapter being filled any other way. “Watching people enjoy themselves at our vineyards…” said Merrily, “We’ve come to realize is probably the best measure of success.”
Inside the massive tasting room, Kingdom of the Hawk Vineyard.
One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts.
Our community is about connecting people through open and thoughtful conversations. We want our readers to share their views and exchange ideas and facts in a safe space.
In order to do so, please follow the posting rules in our site’s Terms of Service. We’ve summarized some of those key rules below. Simply put, keep it civil.
Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain:
User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in:
So, how can you be a power user?
Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service.
Experience Culinary Excellence: Michelin Star Meets Napa Valley Wine at Auro’s 2024 Dinner Series
Auro and Executive Chef Rogelio Garcia earned its first Michelin star in 2023, after being open only for one year.
The relationship between food and wine is a timeless dance of flavors, intricately shaped by regional traditions and elevated through the art of complementary pairings. For culinary enthusiasts and wine lovers, appreciating the synergy between these elements can transform a dining experience from ordinary to exceptional.
This magic is well understood by James Beard Finalist Chef Rogelio Garcia and Certified Sommelier Derek Stevenson of Auro. Together, they have been skillfully pairing cuisine and wine at the one-star Michelin restaurant located in the Four Seasons Napa Valley in Calistoga. Stevenson’s expertly curated wine selections highlight the diversity and quality of local offerings from Calistoga and Napa Valley. Each pairing is thoughtfully chosen to enhance Chef Garcia’s dishes, fostering a harmonious dialogue between food and wine that narrates the unique story of Napa Valley’s terroir. The duo is now expanding their natural collaboration with a new Wine Dinner Series beginning on July 31st, featuring select dates each month through October 30th.
Each dinner will feature a curated multi-course menu, expertly paired with one of the region’s finest wines. Guests can look forward to indulging in innovative dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients, all while taking in the stunning views from Auro’s perch. This unique dining experience promises to be a delightful celebration of a rich atmosphere, culinary artistry, and fine wine that defines the world-class destination which is the Four Seasons Napa Valley.
“At Auro, we honor the ingredients and the labor that brought them to us,” Chef Garcia adds. “The tasting menu is a tribute to my evolution as a chef, influenced by the brilliant chefs I have had the privilege to work with. It is my hope that through gathering, with friends and family around a meal, we can find common ground on the plate.”
Auro Restaurant Dining Room at Four Seasons Napa Valley
Below is the “Wine Country Tasting Menu” I was able to experience at Auro which had me questioning, what is the better pairing? The food and wine or Rogelio and Derek?
Cape Cod Scallop
Koshihikari Rice, Garlic Mojo Verde
2022 Firetree | Chardonnay | Carneros | CA
10-Day Dry-Aged Hiramasa
Tenbrink Farm Pluots, Avocado, Citrus-Tamarid Aguachile
2023 Kenefick Ranch | Sauvignon Blanc | Calistoga | CA
12-Day Dry-Aged Ruby Red Kinki
Watsonville Baby Artichoke, Dwelley Farm Pole Beans, Mussel-Pernod Fume
2022 Diamond Mountain Vineyard | Chardonnay | Calistoga | CA
California Squab
Tenbrink Farm Cherries, Coriander, Mole Negro
2019 Knights Bridge | Cabernet Sauvignon | Knights Valley | Calistoga | CA
21-Day Dry-Aged Kagoshima Japanese Wagyu
Golden Chanterelles, Bok Choy, Summer Squash
2019 Eisele Vineyard | Cabernet Sauvignon | Calistoga | CA
Tenbrink Farm Peaches
Straus Yogurt Sorbet, Basil Cake, Marshall’s Farm Honey Vinaigrette
2019 Stony Hill | Semilon du Soleil | Semillon | Spring Mountain District | CA
Cinnamon Buñuelo
Caramelized Chocolate Cremeux, Banana, Horchata
2012 Alpha Omega | Sauvignon Blanc + Semillon | Late Harvest | Napa Valley | CA
Auro has created something extraordinary here, a dining event that speaks to all the senses, telling the story of Napa through each carefully crafted bite and sip. This promises to be an evening you will treasure long after the last course has been enjoyed, filled with memories that linger just like the exquisite aftertaste of the wines. Upcoming dinners feature collaborations with renowned wineries, each offering a unique glimpse into Napa Valley’s diverse terroir:
July 31 – Shafer Vineyards
Shafer Vineyards, celebrated for its Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, has been a pillar of Napa Valley’s Stags Leap District since 1972. Their dedication to sustainable practices and the production of consistently high-quality wines has garnered them numerous accolades, including the prestigious “Wine of the Year” award from Wine Spectator.
August 28 – Elusa Winery
Located at the foot of the Four Seasons Napa Valley property, Elusa is a hidden gem that highlights the exceptional terroir of Calistoga. Winemaker Jonathan Walden, in collaboration with acclaimed winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown—who has received multiple 100-point scores from wine critics—creates limited-production wines that beautifully reflect the region’s volcanic soils and diverse microclimates.
September 25 – The Donum Estate
By fusing art with viticulture, Donum crafts exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Carneros region. The estate features one of the largest private sculpture collections globally, offering a distinctive wine tasting experience that captivates all the senses.
October 30 – Hundred Acre Wine
Hundred Acre is a prestigious winery in Napa Valley, established by the visionary winemaker Jayson Woodbridge. It is celebrated for crafting highly sought-after, limited-production Cabernet Sauvignons that consistently earn perfect 100-point ratings from critics and command some of the highest prices in the region.
Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley is located in Calistoga, CA
Guests can elevate their experience with an overnight stay package, available for selected dates between July 22, 2024, and December 31, 2024. This package offers a complete wine country getaway, featuring a Michelin-Starred dinner at Auro set within a world-class vineyard. Experience why Auro is a must-visit destination for food lovers in Napa Valley. Click here to learn more.
One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts.
Our community is about connecting people through open and thoughtful conversations. We want our readers to share their views and exchange ideas and facts in a safe space.
In order to do so, please follow the posting rules in our site’s Terms of Service. We’ve summarized some of those key rules below. Simply put, keep it civil.
Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain:
User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in:
So, how can you be a power user?
Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service.
The Emerging Trends Fueling Growth in Idaho’s Wine Industry
River in the Sawtooth Mountain Range of Idaho – A State That Now Has 65+ Wineries
If you are seeking a state where you can enjoy an outdoor vacation and drink award-winning wine, then Idaho should be on your radar. Though most people think of Idaho as a place to go hiking and camping amongst breathtaking mountains and lakes, rafting down wild rivers, or skiing at Sun Valley in the winter months, in the past two decades Idaho has been rapidly expanding its wine industry.
“Most people don’t know that Idaho settlers first planted wine grapes and produced wine here in the 1860’s, and today we have more than 65 wineries,” stated Ashlee Struble, Industry Relations Manager with the Idaho Wine Commission, in a recent email interview.
Even more interesting is that 47% of Idaho wineries are women owned. “We, as an industry, are incredibly lucky to have so many talented and intelligent women who are making their mark and forging a path for future generations,” stated Ashlee.
Yet the positive growth of the industry is rather recent. In 2002, there were only 12 wineries in Idaho, and in 2024, there are more than 65 wineries with 1,300 vineyard acres. The total economic impact of the wine industry to the state was $314.2 million in 2022, according to the Idaho Wine Commission website.
So what has created such positive growth in the Idaho wine industry? Ashlee cites five major factors: 1) Ideal grape growing conditions (warm days, cool nights and higher altitude); 2) Increased consumer awareness; 3) A supportive industry environment; 4) Wine tourism and local community support; and 5) Increased access to viticulture and winemaking education.
Ashlee Struble, Industry Relations Manager with the Idaho Wine Commission
Idaho wines that have a tendency to win the most gold medals at wine competitions include grenache, tempranillo, riesling, syrah, and sauvignon blanc, though the 65+ wineries located in Idaho also produce many other wine varieties.
“There are more really delicious wines produced by Idaho winemakers than there were even a decade ago,” stated Eric Degerman, President & CEO of Great Northwest Wine magazine and Director of the Cascadia International Wine Competition. “In the past four years, the best-of-show wine has been made with Idaho-grown grapes.”
But what do Idaho wines taste like? Recently I had a chance to taste over 50 Idaho wines on a visit to the state, and was surprised at the fresh fruity component in many of them, combined with a complex savory note on the finish. Due to this earthy minerality and a refreshing high acid, many of the wines have some of the complex notes often found in European wines. Idaho wines also age well, and take on even more complex flavors over time.
“The soil in Idaho has a lot of volcanic red cinder, which can add a savory component to many of the wines and sometimes a touch of sagebrush,” explained Earl Sullivan, Co-Founder and Owner of Telaya Winery, a popular urban winery nestled along the river in Boise, Idaho.
There are actually six different winegrowing regions of Idaho, and three approved appellations, or AVAs (American Viticulture Areas). They are the Snake River Valley AVA near Boise, Eagle Foothills AVA, north of Boise, and the Lewis-Clark Valley AVA in the far north near Lewiston and Moscow.
6 Major Winegrowing Regions of Idaho and 3 AVAs (Appellations)
So where should you start if you want to schedule your next vacation in Idaho and visit a few wineries? According to Ashlee Struble, you can visit local wineries in and around the capital city of Boise in one to two days, or spend a week touring the different Idaho wine regions and also enjoying some great outdoor adventures.
“If you’re planning a trip to Idaho and want to explore our industry in a short amount of time, I highly recommend flying into Boise (the capital) and staying at one of our excellent downtown Boise hotels. From here, wine enthusiasts can easily access several notable wine regions,” she reported.
For example, there are several urban wineries in Boise and the Garden City district to visit, including Telaya, Scoria, Split Rail, and Proletariat, amongst others. In addition, Boise has some excellent wine bars and wine shops, such as Bodovino, Uncorked, and Coiled Wine Bar, as well as the newly opened House of Wine shop, which also offers educational wine tastings.
Only a one hour drive from Boise, and you will be in the middle of the Snake River Valley AVA where there are many wineries. Koenig Vineyards has a large tasting room and a large terrace with views overlooking the valley. Close by are Ste. Chapelle, Indian Creek, Fujishin, Sawtooth, Veer, Hells Canyon Winery, and many more.
If you want to make a full week tour, then Ashlee recommends: “Rent a car, and tour our three renowned AVAs over the course of a week. Enjoy wine tastings and vineyard views while indulging in our excellent local restaurants, outdoor activities, and museums.”
Both the Idaho Wine Commission Visit website and Wines Northwest include a list of Idaho wineries with contact information to assist you in scheduling winery visits. However, Idaho wineries are usually small family owned businesses, so many will still welcome you with warm smiles if you decide to drop by without an appointment.
Idaho’s Koenig Vineyards with Owners, Sydney Nederend, CEO and James Nederend, Winemaker, and Family
Following is a partial list of award-winning Idaho wines that I enjoyed tasting:
· Veer Wine Project 2022 Garnacha (Grenache)
· Indian Creek Winery 2022 Dry Rosé of Syrah
· Sawtooth Winery 2022 Classic Fly Series Dry Riesling
· Hat Ranch Winery 2020 Tempranillo
· Telaya Winery 2021 Turas (Syrah based red blend)
· Koenig Vineyards 2021 Riesling Ice Wine (sweet)
· Huston Vineyards Chicken Dinner 2023 White Wine
· 3100 Cellars 2019 Sparkling Wine
So, what is the future of the Idaho wine industry? According to Ashlee, “The future of Idaho wine is bright, marked by continued growth, enhanced quality, and increasing recognition.”
Eric Degerman agrees with her: “There will be more delicious wines than ever coming out of Idaho. There are several exciting young vineyard plantings spearheaded by talented farming families and/or retired business leaders.”
There also appears to be much support from the local community, because many of the winery visitors I met were locals who had joined the wine club and enjoyed hanging out with friends to socialize and taste wine.
For an excellent video overview of Idaho wine, check out Madeline Puckette’s, Founder of Wine Folly, YouTube video below:
Author’s Note: I grew up in southeast Idaho near the Wyoming border and the town of Soda Springs, but there are no wineries in that part of Idaho – only cattle ranches, wheat fields, and incredibly beautiful mountains and scenery. It was enjoyable to go back to Idaho this summer and witness the positive growth of the Idaho wine industry, and all of the excitement and passion of the small family grape growers and winemakers.
One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts.
Our community is about connecting people through open and thoughtful conversations. We want our readers to share their views and exchange ideas and facts in a safe space.
In order to do so, please follow the posting rules in our site’s Terms of Service. We’ve summarized some of those key rules below. Simply put, keep it civil.
Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain:
User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in:
So, how can you be a power user?
Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service.
Vintage Wine Estates Declares Bankruptcy: Begins Asset Liquidation Process
Vintage Wine Estates Inc., a Santa Rosa-anchored producer of Ace Cider and wine brands B.R. Cohn, Girard, Clos Pegase and Viansa, on Wednesday announced it has filed for Chapter 11 reorganization as it has increasingly struggled in recent months to pay debts.
The filings in Bankruptcy Court are intended to “establish a fair, structured process for VWE to address outstanding debt obligations while the business pursues the sale of its assets,“ the company said in the news release. Vintage is looking for the ”sale of all or substantially all“ of its assets.
The company said it “experienced negative financial headwinds that severely impacted its liquidity position. In response, the Company explored several solutions to overcome these challenges, with the monetization of all assets being the most viable path forward to maximize value.”
The latest to be sold to pay down debt is Napa Valley’s Cosentino Winery at 7415 St. Helena Highway Yountville. The real estate and equipment for the Napa Valley facility were sold to Gene Wines LLC on Friday for $10.5 million.
As of March 31, the company had about $475 million in assets and $400 million in liabilities, according to a court filing by Seth Kaufman, CEO.
Chief among those liabilities was around $310 million Vintage still owed on secured lines of credit from BMO Bank at the time of the Chapter 11 filings, Kaufman said. His 45-page document recounted the company’s rapid growth through acquisition in recent years, impact of the pandemic on the wine business overall and Vintage’s restructuring strategy put into place in early 2023.
The company in late 2022 had obtained commitments for $458 million in credit lines from Bank of the West, which BMO acquired. But some of those commitments were reduced by $83 million in October of last year after four changes that gave Vintage more time to provide financial records and other information required.
Last September, Vintage brought in investment banker Oppenheimer & Co. to explore takers on three options: find a buyer for all or most of the assets, find an investor for a minority stake or sell individual brands or assets.
When that wasn’t successful, Vintage in January of this year ratcheted up its restructuring plan, including layoffs of 15% more workers on top of the 4% job cuts six months earlier. The company also committed to focusing on “super premium-plus” estate wineries such as Girard, Kunde, B.R. Cohn, Laetitia and Firesteed.
Former executive Karla Reed on Wednesday reflected on the news of the Chapter 11 filing. Reed, now co-founder of boutique Sebastopol vintner Wild Rising Wines, had been working for the company and its predecessor from 2010 until rounds of layoffs early last year. For the last four years, Reed was vice president of finished goods supply chain.
“It’s a sad day for Vintage Wine Estate employees who have worked so hard over the years to build a strong company and see it fall,” Reed told The Press Democrat.
This past March, Vintage brought in GLC Advisors and GLC Securities to find who might bid on company assets before or after a filing for reorganization, Kaufman said in the document.
“Quickly, however, it became apparent that the Company was unlikely to succeed in monetizing the majority of these assets through an out-of-court process, although it was able to close the sale of its Cosentino assets prepetition,“ Kaufman said.
Vintage’s challenges with liquidity continued this year. In February, the company entered the first of multiple forbearance agreements with its lenders that extended payment deadlines, waived previous breaches in requirements to submit financial documents, adjusted interest rates and reduced the credit line by $20 million.
The most recent forbearance agreement was set to expire this Wednesday, July 25. Last Thursday, July 18, the credit agreement was amended for a fifth time, with an advance of $7.5 million.
Vintage also filed with the Securities & Exchange Commission to delist its stock, traded on the Nasdaq exchange under the ticker symbols VWE and VWEWW.
The Vintage Wine Estates portfolio has over 30 wine, spirits and cider brands including luxury and “lifestyle” wines. The company owns and leases about 1,850 acres of vineyards and operates 11 wineries and nine tasting rooms, according to court documents. It employs more than 400 employees in 15 states.
Jeff Quackenbush covers wine, construction and real estate. Reach him at jquackenbush@busjrnl.com or 707-521-4256.
Press Democrat wine writer Peg Melnik contributed to this report.
Nolensville Residents to Vote on Wine in Grocery Stores Referendum This November
NOLENSVILLE, Tenn. (WKRN) — Nolensville voters will have the power to allow grocery stores to sell wine in November, the Williamson County Election Commission announced.
Resulting from a signature-gathering campaign, the question of whether to allow wine in grocery stores (WIGS) will appear on the town’s ballot in the Nov. 5 general election.
Williamson County Election Administration Chad Gray issued a memorandum confirming that his staff validated enough signatures to meet the petition threshold for the question to appear on the general election ballot. Per state law, a certain minimum number of Nolensville registered voters had to sign the petition in order to get the initiative on the ballot.
PREVIOUS: New Nolensville grocery stores may be unable to sell wine
One group celebrating the referendum’s appearance on the ballot is the Tennessee Grocers & Convenience Store Association.
“Nolensville shoppers are one stop closer to being able to buy wine where they buy their food,” Association President Rob Ikard said in a statement. “We are excited that the Town of Nolensville will likely join the more than one hundred fifth communities statewide that have adopted wine in grocery stores.”
The Williamson County Election Commission is set to approve the petition results at its upcoming meeting, which should be held no later than August 19.
“We are encouraged by the overwhelmingly positive response we received in the petition effort, but it is now up to the voters of Nolensville,” Ikard said. “Those who want to be able to buy their wine where they buy their food must make their voices heard on November 5.”
⏩ Read today’s top stories on wkrn.com
The referendum is timely, as the town recently announced plans for two new grocery stores that would otherwise have not been able to sell wine when they opened. Both Publix and Kroger are currently in the works in Nolensville, with estimations of opening in the next year and a half.
News 2 has reached out to Nolensville officials for comment, but has not heard anything back as of publication.
Copyright 2024 Nexstar Media, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
For the latest news, weather, sports, and streaming video, head to WKRN News 2.
East Coast Celebrity Chef Explores Oregon Wine Country and Savors Portland Pizza
“`html
Erin French, the chef-owner of The Lost Kitchen in Freedom, is shown at a cookbook-signing event in Freeport, Maine. Portland Press Herald via Getty
Since opening her restaurant, The Lost Kitchen, in her hometown of Freedom, Maine, chef Erin French has become well-known for her cooking, her personal story of overcoming struggles to find success, and also for how difficult it is to snare a reservation at The Lost Kitchen, the mill-turned-restaurant that requires would-be diners to mail postcards requesting reservations, in the hopes that their postcard will be among those chosen at random.
The Lost Kitchen has gained national renown as high-profile figures such as Martha Stewart have visited, and French has authored books and hosted her own TV series, which airs on the Magnolia Network, the media joint venture between Chip and Joanna Gaines (of “Fixer Upper” fame) and Warner Bros. Discovery.
French’s media footprint has expanded even more with the arrival this summer of a new series, The show, which premiered on the Magnolia Network and the Max streaming platform on June 23, finds French and her husband, Michael Dutton, driving their Airstream trailer across the country to visit cities and states where French hopes to find fresh inspiration for meals served at The Lost Kitchen.
“`
So far, French and Dutton have visited Louisiana, Texas, Arizona, and California. In the episode that aired Sunday, July 21, the couple came to Oregon, on what they said was the first day of spring.
The couple set up camp on a site overlooking Illahe Vineyards, in the Dallas area. The winery is, French said, one of their favorites, “that we procure wines from for The Lost Kitchen.”
French said in the episode that Oregon is producing all the things that go together. “This is the week of hazelnuts and wine and pasta and open fire cooking, pizza — there’s scene here. We’ve got to check it out.”
Before all that, though, French went on a “truffle foraging adventure,” though her husband, who wasn’t feeling well, stayed behind in the trailer. French met up with Elan Hagens, owner and founder of Temptress Truffles, and Kevin McFarland, who breeds truffle-sniffing dogs and guides truffle hunting excursions.
Hagens told French that the Willamette Valley is one of the “most fruitful regions” for truffles, and the trio, accompanied by a truffle-hunting dog, walked through a wooded area, searching for black truffles and Oregon winter white truffles.
Then, French drove to Portland, where she stopped in at Pastificio d’Oro, for a lesson in preparing hand-made pasta.
“I’ve always wanted to learn how to make handmade pasta, but I’m intimidated,” French said.
French met Chase Dopson and Maggie Irwin, noting that Chase and Maggie are partners, in that he takes care of the pasta, and she takes care of everything else. Dopson demonstrated his technique, which involves using a mattarello, a handmade wooden rolling pin.
French confessed that she’s never made pasta, and has felt “mortified and embarrassed” about it. Following Dopson’s directions, French rolled out pasta dough, and said, “I can already feel my mistakes.”
Both agreed with Dopson’s observation about cooking — “your mood is in your food.”
After cooking granola, with chopped hazelnuts and Oregon honey among the ingredients for breakfast at camp, French was joined by two visiting Lost Kitchen employees, Alex Burnham and Lauren Crichton, as they went to Illahe to preview some wines they might want for The Lost Kitchen.
When they started the wine cellar at The Lost Kitchen, French said, they wanted to have wines that you couldn’t find all over the place. “We wanted it to be like it came from these small vineyards that were doing thoughtful things,” she said. “And Illahe has been on our list since then.”
Karen Richards, of Illahe, poured a number of wines for French, Burnham and Crichton, and talked about the Illahe commitment to sustainability and natural growing practices.
Sitting outside, under a cloudy Oregon sky and with lush greenery in the background, French tasted one wine, and said, “Oh, we know this. This got us through the pandemic.”
A post shared by Tournant (@tournantpdx)
French’s next stop was Tournant, where Jaret Foster and Mona Johnson told French how they went from working in “classic kitchens” to meeting at the Portland Farmers Market, to starting a “farm to fire” dining business, where food is often prepared over an open fire.
Then it was back to Portland, where French was now joined by Dutton, as they walked with the St. Johns Bridge in the background. They agreed they had to go try “some West Coast pizza.” They went to Gracie’s Apizza, where owner Craig Melillo was making pizzas with seasonal ingredients.
“Apparently, Portland, Oregon is like the pizza spot on the West Coast,” Dutton told French. He lived and worked in New York for years, Dutton said, and loves New York pizza. “Let’s see how good it is” in Portland, Dutton said, and added that he bet Melillo was from the East Coast.
Melillo served up a hazelnut pizza with balsamic vinegar; a daily pie with green garlic pesto with kale, pickled chiles and potatoes; and a tomato pie with green garlic and Pecorino cheese.
French and Dutton chowed down. “Nice thin crust,” Dutton said, approvingly. “The pizza is legit,” French said. “We got some real talent on the West Coast for pizza. Might be giving the East Coast a little run for the money.”
Dutton then shared his theory with Melillo, that Portland is gaining a reputation as a pizza place because people are bringing their skills and talents from the East Coast.
Melillo said he grew up in Connecticut, just outside of New Haven, but added that Dutton’s theory was wrong. “I don’t think that’s exactly why it’s really good here,” Melillo said. “The thing about here is the ingredients are so good. Particularly in my case. Every cheese you’re eating, except the Pecorino, is from the Pacific Northwest.”
French concluded that a theme of the week in Oregon was, it’s not about how many people can you feed, “it’s about how many people can you do something really special for.”
Back at their camp, French invited some of the locals she met to share a meal she prepared, including duck breast, onions, hazelnuts, pears, truffles and pinot noir.
“I feel like we don’t ever want to leave,” French said.
The “Oregon: Wine Country” episode of “Getting Lost With Erin French” is “The Lost Kitchen” is
— Kristi Turnquist covers features and entertainment. Reach her at 503-221-8227, kturnquist@oregonian.com or @Kristiturnquist
Our journalism needs your support. Please become a subscriber today at OregonLive.com/subscribe
If you purchase a product or register for an account through a link on our site, we may receive compensation. By using this site, you consent to our User Agreement and agree that your clicks, interactions, and personal information may be collected, recorded, and/or stored by us and social media and other third-party partners in accordance with our Privacy Policy.
Unveiling the World’s Best Pinot Noir: Insights from the Decanter World Wine Awards
Domaine Histoire D’enfer, L’enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir 2019,
Six Pinot Noir wines won Platinum medals at the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA). The competition is the largest wine competition in the world and is considered among the most prestigious. Over 18,000 wines were entered in the recently completed 2024 judging. Below are tasting notes on the six winners and some background on their producers. All six medalists had identical scores of 97/100 points.
Domaine Histoire D’enfer, L’enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir 2019, 13.9% ABV, 750 ml
Domaine Histoire D’enfer is a boutique winery in Salquenen, Valais, Switzerland. Established with a focus on high-quality, small-batch production, the winery’s name, “Histoire D’enfer,” translates to “Hell’s History,” reflecting their region’s challenging but rewarding viticulture. The winery is dedicated to expressing the unique terroir of Valais through its wines.
The vineyards are characterized by limestone-rich soils, contributing to the wines’ minerality and elegance.
This Pinot Noir reveals a stunning ruby color with a bouquet that features aromas of ripe red cherries, cranberries, and subtle floral notes. The palate is nuanced and complex, with layers of red fruit, minerality, and a hint of spice. The texture is silky, with fine, well-ripened tannins and a balanced acidity that leads to a long, elegant finish. The limestone influence is evident, adding a distinct minerality and freshness to the wine.
The DWWA Judging panel described the wine as featuring:
Enchanting raspberry, strawberry, and freshly picked cherries charm and delight with a delicious infusion of sumptuous red licorice, clove, and star anise rippling alongside. Capacious and warming with a simmering gravelly undertone of mineral tannin. Superb!
Audeant Wines, Luminous Hills Pinot Noir 2021, 12.9% ABV, 750 ml
Audeant Wines, located in the Willamette Valley, Oregon, is a small family-owned winery dedicated to crafting premium Pinot Noir wines. The winery emphasizes sustainable farming practices and minimal intervention in the winemaking process to preserve the fruit’s purity and the vineyard’s distinct characteristics.
The vineyards are situated on a mix of volcanic and sedimentary soils at an elevation of approximately 700 feet above sea level.
Luminous Hills Pinot Noir is a vibrant and expressive wine with a deep garnet hue. The nose is filled with aromas of black cherries, raspberries, and a touch of earthiness. It offers a rich texture on the palate with flavors of dark fruit, cocoa, and a hint of spice. The wine is well-structured with fine tannins and a bright acidity, culminating in a long, nuanced finish.
The DWWA Judging Panel described the wine as exhibiting:
Ripe crushed cherries and perfumed red flowers leap out of the glass and cascade over the crunchy, youthful palate; with an immersive texture, silky smooth tannins and a squeaky-clean acidity. Impressively long and memorable.
Bay of Fires, Pinot Noir 2022, 13.6% ABV, 750 ml
Bay of Fires, Pinot Noir 2022, 13.6% ABV, 750 ml
Bay of Fires is a prominent winery in Tasmania, Australia, renowned for its cool-climate wines. The winery’s location provides ideal conditions for growing high-quality Pinot Noir, characterized by intense flavors and balanced acidity. The vineyards feature sandy loam and volcanic soils, which help to produce wines with great finesse and complexity.
This Pinot Noir from Bay of Fires is elegant and refined, showcasing a beautiful translucent ruby color. The nose reveals aromas of violets, blackberries, and a hint of spice. The palate is silky and smooth, with flavors of dark cherries, plums, and subtle oak undertones. The wine has a vibrant acidity and fine-grained tannins that provide structure and length, leading to a graceful finish.
In describing the wine, the DWWA Judging Panel noted:
Prior to 2024, we’ve never had a Tasmanian Pinot in our Best In Show selection. This year we have two. Was it because 2022 was a sensational vintage? Not exactly – the east coast of the island suffered from a spectacularly cool, wet season; elsewhere on the island, though, conditions did indeed vary from good to outstanding.
The first wine in our pair is a pan-Tasmanian blend with source fruit from several regions. It is a translucent dark red in colour, with warm, settled aromas of plum, cherry, and raspberry just teased towards sweetness with subtle oak. It is warm, soft and mouth-filling, built on the same core of subtly mingled fruits with muted, natural acidity and fine tannins, the combination giving an almost silky charm to the wine. This considered, restrained winemaking lays the groundwork for a Pinot which is hugely easy to drink yet at the same time deeply satisfying and highly amenable – a Pinot to sip on its own, to chill with fish or to serve at a cool room temperature for white meats and salads.
Yarra Yering, Pinot Noir 2022, 13% ABV, 750 ml
Yarra Yering is one of the most iconic wineries in the Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Established in 1969, it has a long history of producing exceptional wines that reflect the region’s terroir.
The vineyards are planted on a mix of sandy clay loam and volcanic soils, which enhance the aromatic complexity and structure of the wines.
The Yarra Yering Pinot Noir is a wine of great elegance and complexity. It is a light ruby color. It features fragrant aromas of red berries, roses, and a hint of forest floor on the nose. The wine is finely textured on the palate with flavors of strawberries, cherries, and delicate spice. The tannins are soft and silky, complemented by a refreshing acidity that enhances the wine’s length and balance.
The DWWA Judging Panel described the wine as being:
Alive with bright red cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit with just a subtle hint of five spice oak. Solid and smooth with velvety tannins and a melting spine of acidity. Long and lingering with a vanilla plum finale.
Lowestoft, Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir 2022, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml
Lowestoft, Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir 2022, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml
Lowestoft is a premium wine producer in the Derwent Valley, Tasmania, Australia. The winery focuses on single-vineyard expressions that highlight the distinct characteristics of their unique terroirs. The vineyards are characterized by sandy loam over clay, which helps to produce wines with depth and complexity.
This Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir is a testament to the exceptional quality of Tasmanian Pinot Noir. It displays a brilliant ruby color with a bouquet of red cherries, wild strawberries, and subtle floral notes on the nose. The palate is rich and layered, offering dark fruit flavors, earthy undertones, and a touch of spice. The wine is well-structured with refined, well-integrated tannins and vibrant acidity, leading to a long, elegant finish.
In describing the wine, the DWWA Judging Panel observed:
The second of this year’s outstanding 2022 Tasmanian Pinot Noirs comes from the Derwent Valley, just north of Hobart and in the rain shadow of Mount Wellington. The region can be drought-susceptible in warm summers, but in the wetter season of 2022 its site stood it in good stead.
This is a darker wine than its pan-Tasmanian peer, but beautifully crafted: singing red fruits without any shadowing from oak and with the intrinsic grace and charm of the Derwent Valley’s fruit well to the fore. On the palate, it is pure, bright, and mouth-filling, packed with juicy raspberry; both tannins and acids are soft and sustaining. They nourish and ease the gorgeous fruit core through the palate to a gently subsiding finish. There’s just a touch of tarry complexity behind those fruits. Virtuoso work from a Pinot region of extraordinary promise.
McArthur Ridge, Southern Tor Pinot Noir 2022, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml
McArthur Ridge is in the Alexandra Basin, Central Otago, New Zealand. The winery is known for its high-altitude vineyards, which produce Pinot Noir with distinctive character and depth. The vineyards feature schist, gravel, and sandy loam soils, which contribute to the wines’ concentration and minerality.
Southern Tor Pinot Noir is a beautifully crafted wine with a deep ruby color. The nose is expressive, with aromas of blackberries, dark cherries, and a hint of spice. The palate is rich and concentrated, featuring layers of ripe fruit, earthy notes, and well-integrated oak. The tannins are firm yet velvety, and the wine’s bright acidity provides balance and length, resulting in a complex and satisfying finish.
In commenting on the wine, the DWWA Judging Panel noted:
We may not have found any Burgundian Pinot Noir wines to feature in this year’s Best In Show selection, but three Pinots from the Southern Hemisphere goes some way to compensate. This example from the Alexandra Basin sub-region shows why there is so much excitement about Central Otago.
It’s translucent dark red in color, with articulate aromas of warm red berries, red cherries, and root spice. It’s softly articulated on the palate and sweet-fruited, with great grace and poise. The wine’s structure comes more prominently from its acidity than from its relatively discreet tannin profile. In just two years, it has already begun to soften and open; look out for stones and an herbal complexity, as well as root spice, on the finish.
These six wines have been recognized for their exceptional quality, reflecting their respective producers’ unique terroirs and winemaking expertise. They are, without question, among the very best Pinot Noir wines in the world.
One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts.
Our community is about connecting people through open and thoughtful conversations. We want our readers to share their views and exchange ideas and facts in a safe space.
In order to do so, please follow the posting rules in our site’s Terms of Service. We’ve summarized some of those key rules below. Simply put, keep it civil.
Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain:
User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in:
So, how can you be a power user?
Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service.
Discover the World’s Best Pinot Noir: Winners of the Decanter World Wine Awards
Domaine Histoire D’enfer, L’enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir 2019,
Six Pinot Noir wines won Platinum medals at the 2024 Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA). The competition is the largest wine competition in the world and is considered among the most prestigious. Over 18,000 wines were entered in the recently completed 2024 judging. Below are tasting notes on the six winners and some background on their producers. All six medalists had identical scores of 97/100 points.
Domaine Histoire D’enfer, L’enfer Du Calcaire Pinot Noir 2019, 13.9% ABV, 750 ml
Domaine Histoire D’enfer is a boutique winery in Salquenen, Valais, Switzerland. Established with a focus on high-quality, small-batch production, the winery’s name, “Histoire D’enfer,” translates to “Hell’s History,” reflecting their region’s challenging but rewarding viticulture. The winery is dedicated to expressing the unique terroir of Valais through its wines.
The vineyards are characterized by limestone-rich soils, contributing to the wines’ minerality and elegance.
This Pinot Noir reveals a stunning ruby color with a bouquet that features aromas of ripe red cherries, cranberries, and subtle floral notes. The palate is nuanced and complex, with layers of red fruit, minerality, and a hint of spice. The texture is silky, with fine, well-ripened tannins and a balanced acidity that leads to a long, elegant finish. The limestone influence is evident, adding a distinct minerality and freshness to the wine.
The DWWA Judging panel described the wine as featuring:
Enchanting raspberry, strawberry, and freshly picked cherries charm and delight with a delicious infusion of sumptuous red licorice, clove, and star anise rippling alongside. Capacious and warming with a simmering gravelly undertone of mineral tannin. Superb!
Audeant Wines, Luminous Hills Pinot Noir 2021, 12.9% ABV, 750 ml
Audeant Wines, located in the Willamette Valley, Oregon, is a small family-owned winery dedicated to crafting premium Pinot Noir wines. The winery emphasizes sustainable farming practices and minimal intervention in the winemaking process to preserve the fruit’s purity and the vineyard’s distinct characteristics.
The vineyards are situated on a mix of volcanic and sedimentary soils at an elevation of approximately 700 feet above sea level.
Luminous Hills Pinot Noir is a vibrant and expressive wine with a deep garnet hue. The nose is filled with aromas of black cherries, raspberries, and a touch of earthiness. It offers a rich texture on the palate with flavors of dark fruit, cocoa, and a hint of spice. The wine is well-structured with fine tannins and a bright acidity, culminating in a long, nuanced finish.
The DWWA Judging Panel described the wine as exhibiting:
Ripe crushed cherries and perfumed red flowers leap out of the glass and cascade over the crunchy, youthful palate; with an immersive texture, silky smooth tannins and a squeaky-clean acidity. Impressively long and memorable.
Bay of Fires, Pinot Noir 2022, 13.6% ABV, 750 ml
Bay of Fires, Pinot Noir 2022, 13.6% ABV, 750 ml
Bay of Fires is a prominent winery in Tasmania, Australia, renowned for its cool-climate wines. The winery’s location provides ideal conditions for growing high-quality Pinot Noir, characterized by intense flavors and balanced acidity. The vineyards feature sandy loam and volcanic soils, which help to produce wines with great finesse and complexity.
This Pinot Noir from Bay of Fires is elegant and refined, showcasing a beautiful translucent ruby color. The nose reveals aromas of violets, blackberries, and a hint of spice. The palate is silky and smooth, with flavors of dark cherries, plums, and subtle oak undertones. The wine has a vibrant acidity and fine-grained tannins that provide structure and length, leading to a graceful finish.
In describing the wine, the DWWA Judging Panel noted:
Prior to 2024, we’ve never had a Tasmanian Pinot in our Best In Show selection. This year we have two. Was it because 2022 was a sensational vintage? Not exactly – the east coast of the island suffered from a spectacularly cool, wet season; elsewhere on the island, though, conditions did indeed vary from good to outstanding.
The first wine in our pair is a pan-Tasmanian blend with source fruit from several regions. It is a translucent dark red in colour, with warm, settled aromas of plum, cherry, and raspberry just teased towards sweetness with subtle oak. It is warm, soft and mouth-filling, built on the same core of subtly mingled fruits with muted, natural acidity and fine tannins, the combination giving an almost silky charm to the wine. This considered, restrained winemaking lays the groundwork for a Pinot which is hugely easy to drink yet at the same time deeply satisfying and highly amenable – a Pinot to sip on its own, to chill with fish or to serve at a cool room temperature for white meats and salads.
Yarra Yering, Pinot Noir 2022, 13% ABV, 750 ml
Yarra Yering is one of the most iconic wineries in the Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. Established in 1969, it has a long history of producing exceptional wines that reflect the region’s terroir.
The vineyards are planted on a mix of sandy clay loam and volcanic soils, which enhance the aromatic complexity and structure of the wines.
The Yarra Yering Pinot Noir is a wine of great elegance and complexity. It is a light ruby color. It features fragrant aromas of red berries, roses, and a hint of forest floor on the nose. The wine is finely textured on the palate with flavors of strawberries, cherries, and delicate spice. The tannins are soft and silky, complemented by a refreshing acidity that enhances the wine’s length and balance.
The DWWA Judging Panel described the wine as being:
Alive with bright red cherry, raspberry and strawberry fruit with just a subtle hint of five spice oak. Solid and smooth with velvety tannins and a melting spine of acidity. Long and lingering with a vanilla plum finale.
Lowestoft, Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir 2022, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml
Lowestoft, Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir 2022, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml
Lowestoft is a premium wine producer in the Derwent Valley, Tasmania, Australia. The winery focuses on single-vineyard expressions that highlight the distinct characteristics of their unique terroirs. The vineyards are characterized by sandy loam over clay, which helps to produce wines with depth and complexity.
This Single Vineyard Jacoben Pinot Noir is a testament to the exceptional quality of Tasmanian Pinot Noir. It displays a brilliant ruby color with a bouquet of red cherries, wild strawberries, and subtle floral notes on the nose. The palate is rich and layered, offering dark fruit flavors, earthy undertones, and a touch of spice. The wine is well-structured with refined, well-integrated tannins and vibrant acidity, leading to a long, elegant finish.
In describing the wine, the DWWA Judging Panel observed:
The second of this year’s outstanding 2022 Tasmanian Pinot Noirs comes from the Derwent Valley, just north of Hobart and in the rain shadow of Mount Wellington. The region can be drought-susceptible in warm summers, but in the wetter season of 2022 its site stood it in good stead.
This is a darker wine than its pan-Tasmanian peer, but beautifully crafted: singing red fruits without any shadowing from oak and with the intrinsic grace and charm of the Derwent Valley’s fruit well to the fore. On the palate, it is pure, bright, and mouth-filling, packed with juicy raspberry; both tannins and acids are soft and sustaining. They nourish and ease the gorgeous fruit core through the palate to a gently subsiding finish. There’s just a touch of tarry complexity behind those fruits. Virtuoso work from a Pinot region of extraordinary promise.
McArthur Ridge, Southern Tor Pinot Noir 2022, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml
McArthur Ridge is in the Alexandra Basin, Central Otago, New Zealand. The winery is known for its high-altitude vineyards, which produce Pinot Noir with distinctive character and depth. The vineyards feature schist, gravel, and sandy loam soils, which contribute to the wines’ concentration and minerality.
Southern Tor Pinot Noir is a beautifully crafted wine with a deep ruby color. The nose is expressive, with aromas of blackberries, dark cherries, and a hint of spice. The palate is rich and concentrated, featuring layers of ripe fruit, earthy notes, and well-integrated oak. The tannins are firm yet velvety, and the wine’s bright acidity provides balance and length, resulting in a complex and satisfying finish.
In commenting on the wine, the DWWA Judging Panel noted:
We may not have found any Burgundian Pinot Noir wines to feature in this year’s Best In Show selection, but three Pinots from the Southern Hemisphere goes some way to compensate. This example from the Alexandra Basin sub-region shows why there is so much excitement about Central Otago.
It’s translucent dark red in color, with articulate aromas of warm red berries, red cherries, and root spice. It’s softly articulated on the palate and sweet-fruited, with great grace and poise. The wine’s structure comes more prominently from its acidity than from its relatively discreet tannin profile. In just two years, it has already begun to soften and open; look out for stones and an herbal complexity, as well as root spice, on the finish.
These six wines have been recognized for their exceptional quality, reflecting their respective producers’ unique terroirs and winemaking expertise. They are, without question, among the very best Pinot Noir wines in the world.
One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts.
Our community is about connecting people through open and thoughtful conversations. We want our readers to share their views and exchange ideas and facts in a safe space.
In order to do so, please follow the posting rules in our site’s Terms of Service. We’ve summarized some of those key rules below. Simply put, keep it civil.
Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain:
User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in:
So, how can you be a power user?
Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service.
The Top Sparkling Wines of 2024: Tried, Tested, and Recommended
Best sparkling wine, overall:
Best sparkling wine, runner-up:
Best budget sparkling wine:
Best splurge-worthy sparkling wine:
“`html
Indulging in a tall glass of chilled sparkling wine can be a blissful experience. Refreshing, refined and crisp all at once, a good bubbly is bound to elevate any meal or celebration. That’s why, along with friends and family, a bottle of sparkling wine is always waiting to be uncorked during life’s big moments. At the very least, it can provide a few ounces of cool relief in the muggy summertime heat.
From rosé and cava to champagne and prosecco, the sparkling wine varieties on the market are vast. Deciphering and differentiating the varieties of sparkling wine can be an intimidating experience. To make matters worse, finding a good bottle at a fair price without help can make your head spin.
Our adventurous team at CNN Underscored is here to make wine shopping less isolating. That’s why we ventured to the West Village’s favorite restaurant and bar, The Noortwyck. Here, we met expert sommelier, Cedric Nicaise, who guided us through an in-depth tasting. Along the way, he gifted us many pearls of wisdom about wine and, in return, we found our new favorite picks.
To be clear, we all have different preferences when it comes to wine. Some of us are sparkling wine enthusiasts while others would rather sip on a canned cocktail. That’s why we had a trusty sommelier to chime in with his expertise.
“`
A post shared by CNN Underscored (@cnnunderscored)
This exceptional, editor-favorite sparkling wine is grown and harvested in California’s renowned Napa Valley. Most of us thought this buttery, bubbly cuvée had the perfect balance of sweetness with a hint of fruitiness and freshly baked pastries. We all agreed on one thing; this elegant bottle was worth the price.
We were lucky enough to sample this vintage sparkling blanc de noirs from 2018 by Etude Wines, which was one of the pricier picks in our testing pool. We appreciated the fresh citrus notes from this delightful bubbly, which we all thought was comparable to a great champagne.
If you love rosé and a good price tag, this vibrant pick from Domain Ste Michelle will be your new favorite sparkling wine. We appreciated the ripe citrus notes and affordability of this wine, sourced from premium grapes in Washington state’s Columbia Valley.
“`html
Although we concluded a good bottle of wine doesn’t have to break the bank, we couldn’t help but love this refreshing, almost creamy chardonnay-esque sparkling wine from the certified women-owned and Black-owned McBride Sisters Wine Company. According to its website, it’s best paired with oysters and shellfish, caviar with kettle chips, sushi, french fries, popcorn or berry desserts.
Although California’s Napa Valley is home to the Mumm Napa vineyard, it has a distinctly French influence. Mumm Napa follows in the footsteps of GH Mumm and its classic French heritage with its traditional wine-making techniques.
We agreed this wine was more delightful than we anticipated. Pale gold and bubbly upon first glance, this wine had a ripe and fruity scent we all found endearing. According to the Mumm Napa website, this wine has aromas of red apple, cherry, orange, and, surprisingly, bread. Senior travel and money editor Andrew Kunesh described this wine as having a “bakery-like smell.” Nicaise confirmed our suspicions, explaining that brioche or buttered toast notes are common in some sparkling wines. Bread flavors “bake” when sparkling wines undergo a second fermentation and yeast consumes sugar.
Associate editor Jillian Tracy found this wine the perfect balance of sweet and yeast-like bread notes, adding: “This one lends itself to be sipped and enjoyed.” Senior tech editor Mike Andronico thought this wine had a hint of apple flavors but found it “smooth and easy to drink.” Meanwhile, photographer Molly Flores described this cuvée as “nutty and oaty,” adding it “opens to sweeter maple on the nose.” Reviews editor Tobey Grumet Segal noted the tart notes from this wine that gave it more flavor and added it had mid-level carbonation, describing it as “almost effervescent.”
“`
“`html
Etude wines were founded on the philosophy that winemaking begins in the vineyard long before the harvest, according to Etude winemaker Jon Priest. Etude is also passionate about sustainable winemaking, and two-thirds of their Grand Benoist Ranch estate vineyards comprise wildlife corridors.
This wine was a close winner for one of our favorite wines, which we moved down the ranking for the higher price point. According to Etude’s website, this bubbly was made via the classically styled brut méthode traditionelle to make pinot noir and chardonnay. This wine has delicate notes of magnolia, Meyer lemon citrus, and orange peel, all with the toasty brioche and vanilla créme notes from the fermentation process. The palate also includes notes of white peach and Golden Delicious apples that would pair well with aperitifs or various cuisines.
Nicaise was impressed by the wealth of information on this label, which was certified sustainable. We all loved this crisp, fine sparkling wine that we felt was comparable to champagne. Flores ranked this wine as her favorite due to its crisp texture and fine carbonation. Tracy wrote this wine had much more minerality and felt tart, with mellow and balanced flavors. Andronico described this wine as fizzy but champagne-like and pleasant overall. Kunesh thought this wine was unobtrusive and added he was “a big fan of this one,” due to its fruitiness and strong apple notes.
It’s hard to resist an elegant rosé, even more so when it’s under $15. This brut rosé crafted by Domaine Ste. Michelle was made in Washington’s Columbia Valley. Home to a lesser-known and underappreciated wine region, the winery has finessed traditional French-style sparkling wines for nearly 40 years, now headed by female winemaker Paula Eakin.
“`
“`html
According to its website, this refreshing rosé has tasting notes of ripe strawberries, with hints of apple and citrus. It has a subtle spice and sweet finish that pairs well with sweet-and-tangy food combinations. Domaine Ste Michelle recommends sipping this rosé with spicy jalapeño and artichoke dips, mixed baby greens, coconut shrimp with sweet chili sauce and fried chicken and waffles.
Although most editors noted that this rosé was floral and on the more acidic side of the sparkling wine spectrum, we thought this citrus-packed option would be great to sip on in the summertime. Senior digital content strategist Hannah Lauson described this wine as “very sweet and floral” and added she loved the light taste and perfect amount of bubbles. Senior testing editor Rick Stella thought it had “a dry taste” but found it mellow and easy to drink. Testing writer Joe Bloss even compared this wine to lemonade, but added that he wasn’t a fan of the prominent bubbles and carbonation. Kunesh was not a fan and added that it reminded him of a simple syrup.
Sisters Robin McBride and Andréa McBride released this limited production of McBride Sisters Collection Reserve wines in 2021, after creating quality canned wines SHE CAN, Black Girl Magic Wines and others. This line embodies their extraordinary origin story, considering they were raised on opposite corners of the globe in the world’s most iconic wine and farming regions of Monterey, California and Aotearoa, New Zealand. As fate would have it, they reunited and realized their shared love of food and wine to create the McBride Sisters Wine Company with the mission to empower women and Black winemakers in the industry.
According to the McBride Sisters’ website, this sparkling wine packed with “fresh fruit intensity” was made using the méthode traditionelle to make a sparkling chardonnay from a single vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. This means it was barrel fermented with a secondary fermentation and tirage aged 20 months in the bottle before disgorging. This neutral barrel fermentation creates a soft and creamy texture, which all our testers took note of. The additional aging also created a yeasty aroma, similar to the . The sisters recommend pairing this wine with oysters and shellfish, caviar with kettle chips, sushi, french fries, popcorn or berry desserts.
“`
One of the many lessons we learned from Nicaise was to be on the lookout for the amount of information on a wine label. Typically, the more information there is, the better. We were impressed with the McBride Sisters’ striking label, which listed the vintage — unlike most sparkling wines we tested.
We all found this tasteful champagne had buttery and creamy flavor notes thanks to the fermentation process. Bloss compared the aroma wafting from this sparkling wine to “freshly boiled pasta” and added that it tasted like it was worth the splurge. Tracy agreed with the pasta analogy due to the wine’s buttery texture and added that the smell made her salivate. She thought it would pair well with a sweeter dish since it “felt more acidic and tart.” Andronico felt this wine was “solid” due to its smooth, rich taste and fine carbonation.
Although wine tasting may seem like an easy experiment, many crucial factors are needed to ensure a thorough test. We researched and landed on 12 sparkling wines at various prices and variations. We brought them to The Noortwyck and chilled them before our tasting because nothing is worse than tepid wine. As advised by our sommelier, we used tall stem glasses to taste a healthy dose of each one. He also taught us to smell our glass and to really “breathe in” all of the flavors to understand the complexity and composition of each bubbly. As we tasted each wine, we made sure to take notes on each wine’s:
We were also mindful of the unseen elements making each wine unique, including:
If we could summarize this wine in one word, it would be “glamorous.” Like the wine itself, this California-derived sparkling brut comes in a golden, sparkly bottle that stands out from the shelf. According to its website, it features notes of green apple, luscious pear and other tropical aromas. One Hope recommends pairing this wine with tropical fruits, cheese kabobs, scallops, halibut and lemon tarts. Bloss summed it up best when he noted: “The fruit is winning here.”
Blanc de Blancs translates to “white of whites,” meaning the Mumm Napa winery only used white grapes to make this wine. Nicaise informed us this term typically indicates a wine is almost always a chardonnay. According to Mumm Napa’s website, this Blanc de Blancs has notes of lemony citrus and aromas of pear, pippin apple and toasted biscuits. We all found this sparkling wine to be extremely carbonated with strong notes of apples.
This unique bottle from Segura Viudas combines the freshness of cava with the elegance of rosé. According to its website, this “cava rosado” features intense fruitiness, lively color and is made from three black grape varieties: Trepat, Pinot Noir and Garnacha. Winemaker Manel Quintana even described it as having youthful fruit aromas of strawberry, redcurrant and grenadine. They recommend pairing this rosé with seafood or enjoying it as a standalone drink. Rosé isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but we all agreed this rosé had a delightful fruity aroma. Our testers found this rosado very fruit-forward and powerful, but we especially appreciated the $10 price tag.
We couldn’t stop at just one rosé. That’s why we picked up Santa Margherita’s brut sparkling rosé that can typically be found for around $25. According to its website, this wine has floral aromas and hints of red berry and a blend of white wine made from Chardonnay and Glera grapes, in addition to a red varietal, Italian malbec. This rosé is “predominantly white with just a kiss of red,” according to the Santa Margherita experts. Their winemakers recommend pairing this rosé with strong flavors, like paella, spicy dishes or savory appetizers. We found this rosé to be intense and piercing to all the senses. Tracy described this wine as “very sharp” and Stella found it to “taste better than it smells.”
Believe it or not, there’s such a thing as sparkling red wine. It’s not as common as rosé or cava, so we felt compelled to taste a classic sparkling red. According to the Rosa Regale website, this wine derives from the Piedmont region of Italy and has aromas of freshly crushed strawberries with just a hint of rose petals. Their experts recommend pairing this luscious red wine with chocolate desserts or simply sipping this on its own. We all found this decadent wine to be fruity, smooth and rich — to the point where some of us could only stomach a few sips. Kunesh felt it was bubbly but not intrusive, reminiscent of Welch’s grape juice. Grumet Segal concluded it was “way too sweet” while I enjoyed the sangria-like intensity. Tracy even wrote, “Texture and flavor-wise, this feels more like juice than wine.”
This rosé from Oregon-based A to Z Wineworks is a blend of pinot noir with white wine, all with notes of tropical fruits including passion fruit, orange, guava, starfruit, luscious pear, honeydew melon, and bruised strawberries. According to the A-Z Wineworks website, this wine also has notes of a tangerine creamsicle and rose petals. Their experts recommend pairing this aromatic rosé with barbequed foods, fruit salads, popcorn or mixed nuts. Nicaise found this to be a respectable rosé, although he was curious to know where the grapes were sourced from. Regardless, we thought this wine was a great, “everyday” rosé packed with flavors, and many testers said this smelled like bubblegum.
We were intrigued by this zero-sugar sparkling wine from Avaline, founded by celebrity Cameron Diaz and friend Katherine Power. According to Avaline’s website, it’s on a mission to craft wines from organically farmed grapes without unnecessary additives and elevate transparency in the wine industry. In addition to the low-calories and no-sugar content, it boasts vegan options in various varieties: red, white, rosé and more. This dry sparkling wine is made with four grape varieties: Macabeo, Xarel-lo, Parellada, and Malvasía for a blend of floral and fruit notes. The winemakers at Avaline recommend pairing this wine with “the sound of laughter and moments to remember.” Nicasise was skeptical of this wine because, as he put it, there’s not much you can do to remove calories from wine. Some testers found this wine to be sour, with less carbonation and excessive foaminess.
This adventurous wine is made by firecracker winemaker Penelope Gadd-Coster, an avid motorcyclist, fly-fisherman, and 90-point sparkling winemaker. This California sparkling wine is made from chardonnay grapes and contains a 12.5% alcohol content. Some found this wine to be on the acidic side, with an almost metallic finish. Others thought it was very fruit-forward with a strong apple aroma but others felt this wine had a similar texture to a beer. Stella noticed this pick was sweet and dry with an “interesting bubbly quality.” Nevertheless, Nicaise was certain this blanc de blanc was the best value pick at just $23 for a bottle.
What is sparkling wine and how is it different from non-sparkling wine?
‘Here’s the most simple and obvious answer,” said Nicaise. “Sparkling wine has bubbles in it and non-sparkling wine doesn’t,” he put bluntly. “Today, in more technical terms, sparkling wine is a decision a winemaker makes,” he added. “It could possibly be a wine of terroir, whereas still wines (non-sparkling) are wines of terroir.” A wine of terroir is a wine that expresses the unique qualities of the region (the “terroir”) where it was grown. It’s comparable to the way a vegetable can taste like the environment it was grown in.
“There are many types of wines,” expanded Ana Fabiano, founder of RiojaTrade and Brand Ambassador for the DOCa Rioja. “There’s table wine, fortified wine and sparkling wine. The latter has carbonation from carbon dioxide,” she said, echoing Nicaise’s point. “This happens naturally (traditional method) in the same bottle or by Charmat, also known as the tank method. Champagne and Cava are made by the traditional method,” she said. “Sparkling wine starts with a still (non-sparkling) wine and then undergoes a secondary fermentation,” clarified dynamic duo Jeff Jenssen and Mike DeSimone, a.k.a @worldwineguys.
What are the different kinds of sparkling wine?
“There are three basic ways of making sparkling wine,” explained Nicaise. “First is the method ancestral, also known as the ancient way. In modern times, producing sparkling wine is a decision a winemaker makes, but as is implied by the name, in ancient times it was sort of an accident.
“Wine that was not fully done fermenting was bottled, and when that wine would start fermenting again, the bubbles would be trapped in the bottle, and therefore make the wine sparkling. Many know this today as Pet-Nat,” he added. “Second, is what is called the Charmat method, which is often used to decrease costs and make large amounts of sparkling wine. To achieve this, fully fermented wine is placed in large stainless steel tanks that are pressurized and a solution of yeast and sugar is added to the tank, that solution then ferments creating CO2; that CO2 is trapped in the tank and makes the wine sparkling, then the wine is bottled.”
“The third and last method is called the champagne method,” said Nicaise. “Here the second fermentation described above takes place in individual bottles, instead of in a large tank.”
What are the most popular kinds of sparkling wine?
“`html
“I believe there are four main categories of sparkling wine,” said Nicaise. “Prosecco, Cava, Champagne method sparkling wines (Cremant in France, some higher end Cavas, some New World Sparkling wines), and Champagne.”
Do you have a favorite brand or variety of sparkling wine?
“I like Champagne,” the Noortwyck sommelier and co-founder shared. “If I had to pick a favorite non-champagne I would pick Bruno Dangin from Burgundy as my favorite,” he added.
“I love premium Champagne, especially Dom Perignon P2, Alfred Gratien, and Boizel,” shared the World Wine Guys. “I live in Spain for part of the year so I am a big fan of Cava. Segura Viudas Heredad Reserva Brut is one of my favorites and the beautiful bottle makes it a great gift to bring to a dinner party.”
“`
Fabiano agreed and added she loved Cavas. “I have worked with and enjoyed many Cavas so they are my favorite,” shared Fabiano. “I also love Billecart Champagne.”
“It’s impossible to choose just one,” said Dana Beninati, food & wine educator and host of Dine with Dana.” I can highlight some of my favorites from the countries known for awesome sparkling production. Segura Viudas Cava from Spain, specifically the Brut Rosé and the Icon Brut Vintage. Mionetto Prosecco from Italy, specifically the Prestige Brut and Berlucchi Franciacorta, specifically the Black Arrow Brut25. Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs from the U.S. and Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or Brut from France.”
What popular cocktails feature sparkling wine?
“There are many, including the French 75, Aperol Spritz, ‘champagne cocktail’ Kir Royal, and then, of course, the Bellini and Mimosa,” shared Nicaise.
“Nothing says happy hour like a Limoncello or Amaro Spritz, which perfectly pair Prosecco with lemon or herbal liqueurs,” said Beninati. “Of course, the internet sensation of a negroni sbagliato went viral for good reason. I also love how a French 75 plays the fruity flavors of sparkling wine against the bite of gin. My absolute favorite cocktail, when ripe summer fruit is in season, is a sparkling sangria, studded Cava with cherries and stone fruits.”
How should you best enjoy sparkling wine?
“Sparkling wine is often identified as a celebratory wine which is positive and wonderful!” shared Fabiano. “However, they can also be enjoyed for solo sipping or with a meal. They do not have to be relegated to a special occasion and are especially refreshing in warm weather with the bubbles’ bright acidity and flavor profile. They can be enjoyed in a flute, tulip-shaped glass or what is currently trending a traditional still wine glass. Chilling in an ice bucket should include both ice and water. A favorite for me this season is the Cava Vilarnau Reserva Rose.”
The World Wine Guys agreed, adding: “With meals or as an aperitif but always with people you love!”
Calistoga Defers Enforcement of Wine Tasting Room Outdoor Seating Regulations to State Authorities
Maria Concetto Winery won’t have to pay $1,800 in fines for pouring wine at its outdoor tables in front of its Calistoga tasting room. But the issue prompting the fines has not been fully resolved.
The winery, known for its robotic server, was fined for promoting and serving wine on the sidewalk off Lincoln Avenue, along which the Napa Valley thoroughfare Highway 29 runs.
City officials said in levying the fines, they were responding to citizen complaints, and abiding by municipal code and California government guidelines, since that sidewalk is part of a state right-of-way, enforced by Caltrans. City code also restricts alcohol consumption in “public.”
Maria Concetto owner Maria Reznikova appealed the ruling during a June 5 hearing, requesting the city cancel the fine, of which she paid $100.
The city agreed to do so on July 11, while handing over jurisdiction on the matter to the state, Calistoga Police Chief Mitch Celaya confirmed. It remains uncertain whether the winery will be reimbursed the $100 already paid.
“The conclusion is we don’t have the standing to enforce what Caltrans has made extremely clear. They could call the California Highway Patrol to pick up the stuff,” Celaya said, referring to the prohibition of alcohol and food service in its right-of-way. “Now, they have a lot of priorities. Who’s going to do something about it is the question.”
Some complaints against the tasting room were submitted to the city over months. Last October, one person emailed a complaint about the winery’s signs posted on a truck out front taking “parking away from locals and visitors wanting to eat and shop downtown.” Other complaints involved noise and “patio furniture on the sidewalk.”
If the city receives additional complaints, officials plan to “forward them onto Caltrans.”
“This was allowed during COVID. That’s over,” said Celaya, the police chief, referring to the period when businesses were allowed to expand outdoor service. “That was then. This is now.”
In the meantime, Reznikova has kept her planter, table and chairs on the sidewalk.
“I don’t know what to expect. I don’t have permission, but that still belongs to Caltrans,” she said.
In June, a regional spokesman for the state transportation agency confirmed an encroachment permit would have to be secured through the city in a lease agreement. But Caltrans stopped short of saying it would send out officials to police the streets, Caltrans North Bay district spokesman Bart Ney said at the time.
He sympathized with merchants attempting to do something “enterprising” at best.
As of Tuesday, Caltrans spokesman Vince Jacala said his agency pledged to work with the California Highway Patrol if a business is in violation of the policy.
“If they violate encroachment permits, the state can legally cite them. Caltrans writes guidelines but is not law enforcement,” Jacala said.
It’s unclear whether Caltrans plans to look into the matter.
From a local level, Calistoga Councilmember Kevin Eisenberg also voiced some understanding for Resnikova’s move, but stressed rules are rules.
“I’ve told her to conform to what everybody else is doing. Don’t be an exception,” Eisenberg said. “But I will say, an overwhelming majority want Lincoln Avenue to be a place to sit outside and eat. Our problem is our street is a state highway, and it shouldn’t be a state highway.”









