Wine 1020
Uncorking Memories: A Toast to My Favorite Wine Experience
What’s a wine memory?
It’s an incredible experience that involves a remarkable wine.
And this recollection is one wine lovers are eager to share — they love revisiting that place in time and they want to take you with them.
Wine memories take us to all corners of the world and hearing these stories invites us to learn about extraordinary, as well as unusual, wines.
Here are a few colorful wine memories from Sonoma County wine aficionados.
“Kristine Anderson, please report to the office.”
When Anderson, a seventh grader in 1968, was summoned to the principal’s office during a school assembly, many of her schoolmates in the small town of Gwinn, Michigan, thought she was in trouble.
As she reached the office, the secretary said, “Your father is on the phone.”
Thankfully, there was no bad news from home. Instead, her father asked if she wanted to accompany him to Washington, D.C., that afternoon. He needed to pick up eight to ten cases of 1963 Château Margaux from a distributor.
The world-renowned Château Margaux wine estate is located in the appellation of the same name in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, France. It has been making full-bodied Bordeaux red blends for centuries, with notes of leather, smoke, and earth.
At 12 years old, Anderson knew very little about wine and hadn’t heard of the legendary Château Margaux. But she was up for a trip to D.C., replied “sure” to her father on the phone, and then rode her bike home.
Once her mother had packed a small suitcase for her, Anderson and her father drove to Marquette, Michigan, where he kept a Piper PA-30 Twin Comanche airplane.
After an eight-hour flight, they landed in D.C. in the late afternoon, checked into the Shoreham Hotel, where they had dinner while Peggy Lee performed that night.
The next morning, before they went to pick up the French wine, they went on a whirlwind tour of the capital — they drove past all of the monuments, visited the National Air and Space Museum and Arlington Cemetery, and saw George Washington’s home at Mount Vernon.
The father and daughter arrived at the wine distributor around 3 p.m., loaded up the wine and flew home. By the time they arrived back in Michigan, they had only been gone for 30 hours.
Fifteen years later, Anderson’s parents bought 40 acres of land in Napa Valley where they founded Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards. And, sometime in the 1990s, Kristine Anderson got to finish off the last bottle of the 1963 Château Margaux together with her parents.
By that time, the wine had become much softer but it had held up well and was a pleasure to drink, Anderson said. The Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards Cabernet that they were drinking alongside the Château Margaux tasted very fine, too, she added.
When Fred Levin of Santa Rosa visited Hungary with his family several years ago, a server suggested a somewhat unusually named wine to pair with their meal. It was a bottle of Egri Bikavér, also known as Bulls Blood (“bika” means bull, and “vér” means blood in Hungarian).
Egri Bikavér is a red blend that is made in Szekszárd, in the south of Hungary, as well as in Eger, in the northeast part of the country.
The town of Eger was the site of a 16th century battle between the Hungarians and the Ottomans — or “the siege of Eger.” Despite being vastly outnumbered by the Ottoman forces, the Hungarians defeated the attackers, forcing them to retreat from the Castle of Eger. The Hungarians’ unexpected victory, according to the Ottomans (and legend), was due to their habit of drinking bulls blood.
Whether the legend is true or not, Levin enjoyed the Egri Bikavér, its aroma, rich full body and pleasing aftertaste. In fact, he liked it so much, he ordered another bottle. But no battles were fought at the end of the meal.
In 2006, when Susan and Dean Nowacki of Santa Rosa were traveling to China for the first time, they had been advised to stick to beer because Chinese wine, according to friends who had visited previously, tasted terrible.
The Nowackis heeded the advice. But, halfway through the trip, just as they had arrived in Xi’an to see the famous army of terra-cotta warriors, Susan had an unexpected wine moment.
While waiting for their luggage to arrive at the hotel, the couple joined a group of other travelers at the bar. Curious, Susan picked up the wine list and — to her amazement — it featured a Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. She had two glasses.
Maybe it was the Kendall-Jackson magic, maybe it was the excitement of traveling and exploring new and historic places, but, to this day, Susan Nowacki considers those glasses of Chardonnay sipped some 6,000 miles from home the best she ever tasted.
The next time you uncork a bottle with friends, ask them about their favorite wine memory. Then sit back and expect to be entertained. You’ll find the stories compelling and, best of all, you’ll walk away with a curious palate.
You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On Twitter @pegmelnik.
Arlow: The Perfect Low-Alcohol Wine for Health-Conscious Enthusiasts
Arlow wants to cater to the growing movement of mindful drinking and those seeking healthier alternatives.
Arlow is debuting this month as a new low-alcohol wine brand, crafted with the intention of providing a flavorful and balanced option for consumers looking to moderate their alcohol intake.
“Over the last five years, we’ve seen increasing demand for solutions to moderate alcohol intake,” Arlow CEO Brandon Joldersma tells Forbes. “While non-alcohol wine has prospered (and sister brand Surely has played an important role in that), we discovered that there has been little innovation in low-alcohol wine.”
Joldersma highlighted the complex process of creating Arlow’s wines, involving blending full-alcohol wines with dealcoholized ones to achieve the desired 6.5% ABV. After a lot of experimentation, Joldersma says the team—including a winemaker and a flavor scientist—realized that they could create wines with around half the alcohol (and calories) of regular wines, which on average can have ABV levels between 12% and 15%, depending on the varietal and winegrowing region.
“Full-alc wines that taste great often taste terrible when dealcoholized, and a great-tasting, dealcoholized wine most likely tasted a bit strange when it was full-alc,” Joldersma says.
A bottle of Arlow’s low-alc rosé wine.
But creating low-alc wines is a complex and time-consuming process, Joldersma notes, which involves blending full alcohol wines with dealcoholized wines to achieve the 6.5% ABV target.
“Thankfully, we have an in-house team that can dedicate the time required to get these blends right,” Joldersma says. “We taste hundreds of wines from our vineyard partners in California, working through a litany of blends to make sure we’re hitting the mark. It’s an art as much as it is a science.”
Joldersma also underscores the shift towards moderation among wine drinkers. The startup aims to tap into the growing trend of mindful drinking, offering an alternative for those looking to enjoy wine without overindulging.
“Many wine fans now intentionally drink less on weekdays. Arlow provides an option for them to enjoy wine without overindulging,” Joldersma explains. “Our wines allow for two glasses on a Tuesday night without worrying about the next morning, or a Sunday afternoon at the pool without needing a nap.”
Low-alc wines usually have a reputation of tasting watered-down, but maintaining taste and quality is paramount for Arlow, Joldersma says.
“We wouldn’t pursue this if we didn’t believe we could offer a quality product at this ABV,” Joldersma says. “Many ‘lower’ alcohol products prioritize branding over taste. We aim to reverse this trend, proving that you can enjoy a flavorful wine with lower alcohol content.”
Arlow’s low-alc wines by the pool.
And Arlow’s wines are naturally low in calories due to the lower alcohol content.
“While non-alcoholic wine has seen innovation, low-alcohol wine has not kept pace. Most existing low-alcohol options are marketed as low-calorie, ‘diet’ wines,” Joldersma says. “At Arlow, we’ve focused on creating wines with around half the alcohol and calories of traditional wines, without compromising on taste.”
The brand’s inaugural release includes bottles of sauvignon blanc, cabernet sauvignon and rosé varietals, each crafted from California-grown grapes with meticulous attention to detail. Joldersma adds a red blend as well as a pinot noir are currently in development.
The company is also exploring different bottling and packaging options, including canned wines and premium bag-in-box formats.
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A Beginner’s Guide to Rosé Wine: Everything You Need to Know
Rose wine glasses set on wine tasting. Different varieties, colors and shades of pink wines on white… background. Top view
Rosé: it’s pink alcohol, served cold by the pool, right? On one hand, absolutely. On the other, this over-simplifies a surprisingly nuanced wine encompassing impressive historical and cultural traditions in some of Europe’s great appellations. Of course, nuanced doesn’t mean so complex it’s too intimidating to learn the basics. If you’re looking for a break-down of the differences in rosé, from the effect picking and production techniques have on style, color and taste, to a review of classic European regions, bookmark this page. Next time you reach for a bottle, you’ll know the difference between Tavel, Rosado, or Rosato.
Production Methods
Though it’s commonly believed that rosé is made by blending white with red, most bottles are made through skin contact (like a red wine) known as “saignee.” Blending red wine into white is only common in Champagne — not in quality still wine. Further, another misconception leftover from America’s white Zinfandel days is that rosé is off-dry or even sweet. In fact, most quality-driven rosés are a variation on bone dry.
Skin Contact
Have you ever heard a producer use the phrase “intentional rosé?” The concept entails growing and harvesting grapes for the express purpose of making rosé wine. This means picking early to preserve freshness and bright fruit flavors, followed by a limited maceration. In other words, winemaking follows the same technique as for red wine: crushing grapes and allowing the juice time on the skins. But for rosé, that time is far less, from a few hours to two days. The shorter the period, the lighter the color – think pale salmon versus dragon fruit pink. After maceration, the wine is drawn off and fermented to full dryness.
Direct press is a variation on this, though is more akin to white winemaking. Rather than allow any contact between skins and juice, the grapes are pressed and the juice is drawn off the skins. But because the grapes are black, the juice will take on a hint of color and flavor. This method yields a delicate rosé, one that’s faint in color, while favoring citrus flavors over red fruits.
Wine glasses and appetizers on the table in the vineyard orchard.
Saignée
French for “bleeding,” saignée is often a byproduct, though not always – see Navarra – of red winemaking rather than utilized as an intentional rosé winemaking method. Grapes are not picked expressly for rosé but rather for the primary red wine. This technique is common in Paso Robles, for example, where winemakers seek to produce concentrated, bold, and flavorful reds. Bleeding some wine off early in the maceration process concentrates the remaining juice; and the lighter juice that’s bled off gets vinified separately for rosé. Though it’s an acceptable method, wines can be an afterthought. Rosé generally demands freshness, and grapes picked for concentrated reds are usually the opposite: ripe with higher alcohol. Of course, it’s a matter of taste – saignée is great for those who prefer a richer, fruitier style of rosé.
Blending
Except maybe late night at a party, fine wine producers don’t blend red and white wine together. At least, French appellations do not allow it, except for one: Champagne. For rosé Champagne, producers may add still Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier for hue and flavor. Outside of Europe, a few New World producers might blend white and red but it’s not the norm for quality wine production.
View on ancient village of Aiguines, Provence, France
FRANCE
Provence, France
If you’ve sipped a glass of rosé, you’ve probably tasted one from Provence. The OG of pink wine, denizens of the south of France view rosé as a way a of life, not just a beverage. Stylistically, Provençal rosé is distinct, too.
Typically, wines are made intentionally, picked for citrus and tart red fruit flavors, with limited skin contact for lighter hues and delicacy of flavor. It’s not a big, brash, fruity wine; rather, they are meant as crisp, versatile food wines to be enjoyed with vegetables, seafood and even meat. The classic grapes are Grenache, Cinsualt, and Mourvèdre. Bandol has a large presence in the U.S. for its high quality, pricier versions made from Mourvèdre. Wines are savory, mineral-driven and structured, rather than simple and fruit-forward. Bandol is a rosé that can age.
Though Provence is better-known in the U.S. market, Tavel is the only French appellation specializing in dry rosé. Talk about intentional winemaking. The primary grape used in Tavel is Grenache. Other grapes allowed include: Cinsault, Bourboulenc, Clairette (pink and white), Mourvèdre, Picpoul (black, white, grey), and Syrah. While white wine cannot be blended with red, white grapes and their press juice can be added pre-fermentation.
Due to longer skin contact, the wines achieve greater color and depth of red fruit flavor. This lends more tannin, structure, and age-worthiness from top producers.
Chinon, Touraine, Anjou, Loire Valley: Based on Cabernet Franc, the best rosés weave delicate vegetal notes from the Cab Franc with juicy red fruit flavors.
The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage which can be walked by connecting various different trails and routes through Europe ending at the tomb of St. James in north west Spain.
SPAIN
Spaniards have been drinking rosé for ages; only in recent years have those bottles made their way stateside. Often, producers made simple, quaffable wines. But as exports have increased, so has quality. Instead of rosé, bottles will say rosado. Grenache and Tempranillo are the main varieties used for making various styles, though often in a deeper hue than their French counterparts.
Navarra
Navarra rosé helped make the region famous. Producers turn out both poolside sippers and more complex, food appropriate expressions. Grapes used include Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot, though rosado from old-vine Grenache is considered the highest expression for the region. Saignée method is typical, but in the case of Navarra, wines are of good quality, not after thoughts.
Rioja
Unusual in the world of rosé, or rosado, is the application of aging classifications to this style of wine. Most producers of rosé tout new vintages for their youthfulness and freshness, using stainless steel vessels in that stylistic pursuit. That, or they need to move product for cash flow. But in the case of Rioja, rosado follows the classic aging rules in oak barrels: joven (no aging requirement), crianza (aged for 12 months including 6 months in barrel); and reserva (2 years including 6 months in barrel). Grenache and Tempranillo are the primary grapes.
Txakoli
Spain’s northern Basque country is home to unusual, indigenous varieties used to produce dry, effervescent Txakoli. Though rosé is a recent phenomenon, it’s becoming easier to find in the U.S. Made in a pale shade of pink, wines are mineral and tart, and largely based on red grape Hondarrabi Beltza.
Beautiful Medieval Villlages Of Italy. Pacentro, Abruzzo.
ITALY
Known as rosato in Italy, rosé is made up and down the boot, with styles and flavors dependent on the local climate and traditional varieties. You’ll find more delicate versions produced in the northeast around Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Trentino-Alto Adige. Logical, given the cooler climate. That includes Chiaretto from Lombardy and Veneto. “Chiaro” means light or pale, evoking the dry style of the wine based on the Corvina grape. Ramato, from Friuli, is based on extended maceration with pink grape Pinot Grigio.
Central Italians, of course, produce rosato. One better known example: cherry-pink Cerasuolo of Abruzzo made from the Montepulciano grape.
In the south, rosatos are fuller-bodied and fuller-flavored like the sun and the food. Puglia, Sicily and Calabria turn out lots of examples with native grapes like Negroamaro (Puglia) and Nero d’Avola (Sicily).
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Orange Wine: A Controversial Trend That’s Here to Stay
Nope, orange wine is not made with oranges. No, it isn’t always orange in color. Sorry, it doesn’t really taste like oranges, either.
So what exactly is orange wine? And why do some people loathe it?
Also known as skin-contact white wine or “amber wine,” orange wine is a style developed thousands of years ago in Georgia, a small country at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.
Believed to be the birthplace of wine, Georgia has been fermenting grapes for at least 6,000 years and continues to produce orange wine today.
While most white wine is made by separating the juice from the skins before fermentation, Georgians ferment the juice and skins in an underground clay vessel called a Qvevri.
After extended aging and oxygen exposure, the wine emerges a deep amber color, with intense aromas, healthy tannins, and flavors that range from nuts to herbs, honey, bruised apple, sour bread dough, candied orange rind, and more.
A wine style produced around the globe, orange wine began cropping up in the U.S. around 2010 and has since become a regular part of the American wine repertoire.
Often produced with native yeast (no inoculation) and little additives like sulfur, many orange wines fit neatly into the “natural wine” category — another popular wine segment. Especially appealing among younger, open-minded wine drinkers in search of something unique, both orange and natural wines appear to be here to stay.
But not everyone is a fan of these unconventional, sometimes funky, hard-to-wrap-your-head-around wines — especially in Wine Country.
DC Looney, co-owner of The Punchdown wine shop in Sebastopol and Oakland, was one of the first people to start selling orange wines in the Bay Area.
“People who are trained in wine or work in the industry can be a little set in their way. “They know what Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are supposed to taste like,” he said. “But I grew up in the Midwest not drinking any wine. I think that’s why I’ve been open-minded about orange wines since the beginning.”
In Oakland, Looney said his customers tend to be more willing to give orange wines a go. In Sebastopol, it can be more challenging to get people on board.
“We named our orange wine flight the ‘Orange Adventure,’ because it aligns with our goal to introduce and inspire people to wine styles that may be new or different,” said Looney. “For me, part of the fun of wine is watching people try new things and seeing when they click.”
While traditional orange wines tend to be rich and opulent in style, a growing number of California winemakers are producing versions in a fresher, more restrained style.
Instead of undergoing extended maceration, these wines have spent just hours or a few days mingling with the skins. They’re also being made with varietals that lean toward acid and aromatics, for a combo that’s quickly attracting a whole new audience to orange wines.
“When a winemaker adds a little bit of an aromatic grape to an orange wine, it can bring out these tropical, floral, fruity aromas and it ends up smelling like a fresh bouquet of flowers,” said Looney. “Our most popular skin-fermented white by far (from Catch and Release) has Riesling and Gewurztraminer in it. It’s so popular, I can’t take it off the list.”
Ryan Miller, co-owner of The Redwood wine bar and bottle shop in Sebastopol, said lighter-style orange wines have a loyal following among his customers, especially the younger set who tend to order them by the glass.
“We get a lot of curious wine drinkers through our doors who want to see what the buzz is around macerated white wines,” he said. “For our clientele, sales of skin-contact wine are steady and fairly strong.”
For Miller, lighter-style orange wines are perfect for the warmer months when people are seeking something “fresh” and “food-friendly.” Come fall, however, he admits he has a penchant for the richer style.
“Some of the longer-macerated orange wines are more structured and take on these autumnal, nutty, oxidative qualities,” he said. “That’s what I enjoy when the temperatures start to drop.”
Orange wine curious? Here are some of our favorite skin-contact wines with plenty of vim and vigor.
Catch & Release 2023 Block Party, California ($28)
50% Pinot Gris, 30% Riesling, 20% Gewurztraminer
Deeply tropical and inherently aromatic, this wine holds all the niceties of skin maceration without losing freshness. Tension is brought about by ripeness and lift on the palate without losing the operative of being delicious.
catchandreleasewines.com (also available at The Punchdown in Sebastopol)
Two Shepherds 2022 Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley ($30)
“Light orange wine or complex rosé? You decide,” says the back label of this delightful Trousseau Gris from 45-year-old vines in the Russian River Valley. Light, fresh and zippy with notes of white peach, white tea and pink grapefruit.
P.S. Also worthy is Two Shepherds 2023 Natty Pets, a delicious, sparkling orange wine in a can. #truestory
twoshepherds.com
Les Lunes 2023 Populis Macerate White, California ($24)
This fresh, gulpable orange wine combines Picpoul, Albarino, Grenache Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, and Chardonnay for summer in a glass. Orange muscat adds a fresh blossom bouquet. lesluneswine.com
Crutchfield 2022 Skin-Contact Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg ($30)
From winemaker Matt Crutchfield comes delicious skin-contact Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg. Showing the savory side of Chenin with orange pith, lemongrass, chamomile, button mushrooms and autumnal flavors. The 2023 vintage will be available this fall. mattcrutchfieldwines.com
Fres. Co 2023 Fire Fuego Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley ($36)
A thrilling carbonic Sauvignon Blanc from winemaker Jack Sporer, this vibrant orange wine shows aromas of grapefruit and apricot, with light grip on the finish. No sulfur added. fresh.wine
You can reach Staff Writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Sarah on Instagram at @whiskymuse.
Planning the Ultimate Celebration Trip to Wine Country: A Step-by-Step Guide
Live like a winery owner at The Residence at Skipstone
When my son was two years old I took him on a trip to Napa and Sonoma—as insane as that may sound, and this was over 25 years ago, it worked out nicely. The adults tasted wines and my son puttered around the tasting rooms and gardens with his toy tractor (he’s a chef now, so I like to think this was part of his journey). Naturally this experience only reinforced my desire to return to California wine country with each of my children when they finally came of age so they could properly enjoy one of America’s greatest treasures. This year, my youngest finally crossed the line into 21 and boy did I have a trip planned. I researched, I reviewed and I quizzed my wine industry colleagues, leveraging all of my expertise to ensure we had a doozy of a trip. We did, but it turns out everything I planned is available to anyone and you don’t have to be an insider to have a spectacular visit to wine country, you simply must plan ahead. Hence, I share this guide with you so that your celebration can be as special as ours was—and so the next generation of wine lovers can see for themselves how amazing wine, wine country, and the people that make wine, really are.
Top Tastings:
Enjoying the ambiance in one of the cabanas at Flowers Vineyard.
Flowers Vineyard: Most of the winemaking at Flowers takes place on precipitous ridges close to the Pacific Ocean. To accommodate wine lovers, they built a beautiful winery just a few minutes south of Healdsburg. The main tasting room oozes wine country ambiance with vaulted ceilings and clean simple lines, and the redwoods and lush gardens add to the lovely outdoor setting. Yet, the best seat here is in one of the private cabanas—breezy sailcloth-trimmed spaces and luxurious lounge seating. Here, you’ll be able to sit back and enjoy experiences such as the Estate Vineyard Immersion tasting, a tasting of Flowers’ single vineyard expressions paired with exquisite chef-prepared bites.
Opus One: Book at least two months early for a chance to visit this iconic Napa Valley winery where the setting almost rivals the wines. The Opus One Experience is without question the best option. You’ll enjoy a seated tasting in the incredible Partners’ Room—a luxurious glass-walled lounge with sweeping views of the estate vineyards and thoughtful refinements such as original artwork and Jurassic era limestone floors. None of these distractions, however, will overshadow the wine—a tasting of the current release and two library wines from their collectors’ list. Your personal guide will walk you through the fascinating history of Opus One, and you’ll finish with a grand tour of the winery.
Suite at Jordan Winery
Jordan Winery: Jordan’s tastings tend to book out well in advance, so call as soon as you know your plans and book the Tasting and Tour for the full range of experiences. You’ll start out on the newly renovated terrace with a glass of Jordan Chardonnay and a bite prepared by Executive Chef Jesse Mallgren. Then it’s off to see the winery garden and vineyards, as well as a peek at the stunning new private dining room, followed by a tour of the historic oak tank room and the grand library. Finish with a seated tasting in the very cool cellar room—and prepare to be dazzled by the culinary pairings and the chance to taste multiple vintages of their iconic Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
Schramsberg Vineyards: A visit here is a worthy stop for any trip to Napa Valley for the history, the education, and the bubbles. Beloved for their amazing range of sparkling wines, many consider Schramsberg to be America’s true sparkling wine—and for good reason—their Blanc de Blancs was used for President Nixon’s 1972 “Toast to Peace” with China’s Premier Zhou Enlai, and to date, Schramsberg’s sparkling wines have been served at official State functions by every U.S. Presidential administration. The Cave Tour and Tasting experience allows you to “go backstage” into the winery caves where you’ll see firsthand how much time and effort must go into making a method champenoise sparkling wine. Then you’ll finish with a tasting of their expressions (and, like us, probably leave with several bottles to enjoy later).
Incredible Stays That are Not Hotels:
Jordan Winery has an intimate collection of accommodations that are available to members of the wine club—and the ability to stay on this 1,200-acre property is worth the trouble to become a member (you’ll also get first dibs on the cool tastings and events they have throughout the year). Rooms are located in a beautiful French country chateau-inspired winery with stunning, newly designed interiors. Each jewel of a space features elegant designer touches, vintage antiques, and artwork. Some rooms have windows that overlook the barrel room and all of them boast views overlooking Jordan’s rolling vineyard landscape.
Exterior of The Residence at Skipstone
The Residence at Skipstone: Booking an entire home is a big challenge in wine country so this option is a rare gem—a fabulously private sprawling 200-acre wine country estate that overlooks the Alexander Valley. The Residence is just that—an 8,300 square-foot property which was originally the home of Skipstone Winery proprietor Fahri Diner. It offers five bedrooms, 6.5 bathrooms, gym, cellar, pool, game room, and vegetable garden all tucked into the fold of rolling vineyards. The main kitchen is fully-stocked but you’ll likely spend more time around the two outdoor firepits, grilling local lamb in the outdoor gourmet kitchen, (which includes a Mugnaini wood-fired pizza oven, really). A concierge is on hand for everything you might need, including stocking the kitchen or retaining a private chef to do the cooking for you.
Guests also get a private tour and a tasting of their exquisite estate wines, cultivated right on site. Estate winemaker Laura Jones, previously of Aubert Wines and Cliff Lede Vineyards, crafts the wines which include the flagship Oliver’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon and Faultline Vineyard Bordeaux blend, as well as two extremely limited 75-case bottlings, the Luka’s Blend Cabernet Franc and Sofia’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Skipstone also produces Viognier, Malbec, Preface Proprietary Red, and the Rose de Constance Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne, in partnership with Diebolt-Vallois. If you really want to get swanky, the concierge can also arrange private aviation services and an opportunity to golf or enjoy other amenities and services at the exclusive members-only Jack Nicklaus-designed Mayacama Golf Course and Private Club.
Amazing Meals:
Cyrus Restaurant: This Michelin-starred restaurant by James Beard Award-winning chef Douglas Keane opened in 2022. It’s a gem of a destination just a bit north from Healdsburg—and absolutely worth the extra five-minute drive. Start your 20-course journey (they also offer a three-course lounge menu if you prefer) in the Champagne Bubbles Lounge with cocktails and canapés, then its into the actual kitchen for several courses and real-time interaction with the chefs. Next, you’ll take a seat in the glass-walled dining room with breathtaking, panoramic vineyard views. The finale takes place in the Chocolate Room, featuring a flowing, liquid chocolate wall. After dinner, if you can manage, walk the one block up to the main street in Geyserville grab a negroni on tap (or a Dirty Mezcal Martini with tomato water and olive oil) at the Geyserville Gun Club—lots of locals find their way here.
On the way back to the airport be sure to take a bite of wine country with you—you’ve your choice of fabulous to-go food. Grab a breakfast sandwich at the Model Bakery (their from-scratch English muffins are the stuff of legend), or pop into Oxbow Market and wander the options—everything from fresh salads and from-scratch bakery goods to Moroccan eats, and it’s all delicious. Just be sure to enjoy one last celebratory glass of wine before you head back home.
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Part Deux: The Ultimate Wine and Fashion Collaboration You Didn’t Know You Needed
Photo by Michael Woolsey
In the latest installment of the hippest wine & fashion collaboration, Belle Glos & Kenny Flowers up the game by offering a limited-edition wine meant to pair perfectly with their tasty print. Dress to impress in the summer heat, and have your fit match your red-waxed wine.
Last year, fifth-generation Napa Valley winemaker Joe Wagner partnered with his favorite upscale tropical clothing brand Kenny Flowers in celebration of each other’s craft and appreciation for those living life unbuttoned. The limited-edition men’s short sleeve button downs and women’s dresses were such a hit amongst customers that they sold out in less than 3 weeks! Now, the styles are back for a limited run – and designed to pair perfectly with a special limited run wine developed by Belle Glos to celebrate the successful collaboration. Less than a year after their first partnership, the brands are doubling down with an even richer collaboration.
Photo by Michael Woolsey
The 2022 Belle Glos x Kenny Flowers Eulenloch ‘Block 2’ Pinot Noir ($85) is available for purchase at the Belle Glos tasting room in downtown Napa and online at belleglos.com/collection/belle-glos.
Shop the limited-edition shirts & dresses via the Kenny Flowers website kennyflowers.com/collections/belle-glos-x-kenny-flowers ($88-$168)
Courtesy of Belle Glos
From Passion Project to Vintner’s Paradise: How One Couple Built a Wine Kingdom in Connecticut
Michael and Merrily Connor, enjoying their little kingdom in Stonington, Connecticut.
For many, life’s second-act may look more like a snail’s pace kind of day at the beach with a little sunshine and a lot of relaxation. It’s meant to be the ultimate period of switching from overdrive to, well, no drive. Right? For Michael and Merrily Connery, however, they did shift gears, but instead of slowing down, they swapped the go-go-go of city-life for spectacular stony views and fields of potential. From the ground up, along the southeastern, Connecticut shoreline, the Connery’s built a wine lover’s paradise.
With style akin to those in British Vogue, the 70-something year-olds traded rows of offices and long careers in law and real-estate, for rows of vines and wine glasses. The creation of Saltwater Farm and Kingdom of the Hawk vineyards became the fruits of their labor during ages when most yearn for a powerful remote and comfy recliner.
Three of the winery’s most popular selections: Raptor Red, Wayward White, and their Pinto Noir Rose.
The couple met in college while living in Washington DC in the 1960s. After marrying, and moving around between DC, Cincinnati, and Bridgeport, Connecticut while establishing their careers, they settled upon the hustle and bustle of New York.
Many years later, in 2001, they stumbled upon 108 acres on the water in Stonington and began dreaming. The dilapidated, World War Two-era private airplane hangar soon became the home of Saltwater Farm Vineyard, the couple’s first endeavor into the world of vinting. They restored the hangar and began planting vines.
Being familiar with the North Fork of Long Island, which boasts a similar climate, the couple had an idea of what could grow in the rocky soil on their Connecticut property, however sought expertise. “Once the CT Department of Agriculture deemed our soil suitable for growing vines—where there were once fields of hay,” said Michael, “we then sought guidance from Steve Mudd, who’s considered the ‘godfather’ of growing grapes on Long Island.”
The rest is history…
Kingdom of the Hawk Vineyard, Stonington, Connecticut.
Along with wine maker, Gilles Martin, part of Sparkling Pointe on Long Island, the Connerys began making wine suitable to the terroir and climate. The venue soon became popular, not only for wine-tasting, but as a sought-after site for weddings.
With one thriving vineyard and event space, and nearly 20 years under their belts, they were ready for another project. In 2018, they purchased 50 acres of open land in North Stonington—a few miles from Saltwater—and opened Kingdom of the Hawk. With eyes always on design, the couple reimagined the idea of a classic barn for their latest vineyard. Steel beams, vaulted ceilings, concrete floors, and its now iconic archway are all nods to their first foray into wine at Saltwater Farm. The dramatic new structure is a showcase of sleek, contemporary architectural design, surrounded by vines and the area’s rugged rocky vistas.
It’s no surprise that both vineyards check many boxes for weddings of all shapes and sizes. The venues strike a balance between intimate and expansive, and appeal to many with their natural, minimalist aesthetic and stunning views.
Sleek and chic against the night sky, Kingdom of the Hawk befits its majestic name.
Kingdom of the Hawk produces a selection of Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blanc, several Rosés, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, a Bordeaux-like blend of Cab Franc and Merlot. They also create another red blend, their Raptor Red, made with four different grapes.
Given the proximity to the shore, and the rich, locally-sourced options, the couple often pair their wines with seafood.
“Our Sauvignon Blanc is delightful with Ninigret oysters,” mentioned Michael. Or, with a lightly chilled Pinot Noir, we enjoy salmon from J & R Seafood, whether pan sautéed, grilled or baked it pairs perfectly,” said Merrily. “A favorite recipe with corn, tomato and shrimp is perfectly complimented by our Pinot Noir Rosé; and we are fond of a variety of Merguez lamb sausage which cries out for our Raptor Red,” she continued.
Diving into the world of making wine may not be the first, second, or any choice for people of “retirement age,” a construct many today, however, are choosing to flip on its head. But for the Connerys, who’ve chosen to spend this time creating beautiful, community spaces for moments of celebration or just being one with nature, they couldn’t imagine this chapter being filled any other way. “Watching people enjoy themselves at our vineyards…” said Merrily, “We’ve come to realize is probably the best measure of success.”
Inside the massive tasting room, Kingdom of the Hawk Vineyard.
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Experience Culinary Excellence: Michelin Star Meets Napa Valley Wine at Auro’s 2024 Dinner Series
Auro and Executive Chef Rogelio Garcia earned its first Michelin star in 2023, after being open only for one year.
The relationship between food and wine is a timeless dance of flavors, intricately shaped by regional traditions and elevated through the art of complementary pairings. For culinary enthusiasts and wine lovers, appreciating the synergy between these elements can transform a dining experience from ordinary to exceptional.
This magic is well understood by James Beard Finalist Chef Rogelio Garcia and Certified Sommelier Derek Stevenson of Auro. Together, they have been skillfully pairing cuisine and wine at the one-star Michelin restaurant located in the Four Seasons Napa Valley in Calistoga. Stevenson’s expertly curated wine selections highlight the diversity and quality of local offerings from Calistoga and Napa Valley. Each pairing is thoughtfully chosen to enhance Chef Garcia’s dishes, fostering a harmonious dialogue between food and wine that narrates the unique story of Napa Valley’s terroir. The duo is now expanding their natural collaboration with a new Wine Dinner Series beginning on July 31st, featuring select dates each month through October 30th.
Each dinner will feature a curated multi-course menu, expertly paired with one of the region’s finest wines. Guests can look forward to indulging in innovative dishes crafted from locally sourced ingredients, all while taking in the stunning views from Auro’s perch. This unique dining experience promises to be a delightful celebration of a rich atmosphere, culinary artistry, and fine wine that defines the world-class destination which is the Four Seasons Napa Valley.
“At Auro, we honor the ingredients and the labor that brought them to us,” Chef Garcia adds. “The tasting menu is a tribute to my evolution as a chef, influenced by the brilliant chefs I have had the privilege to work with. It is my hope that through gathering, with friends and family around a meal, we can find common ground on the plate.”
Auro Restaurant Dining Room at Four Seasons Napa Valley
Below is the “Wine Country Tasting Menu” I was able to experience at Auro which had me questioning, what is the better pairing? The food and wine or Rogelio and Derek?
Cape Cod Scallop
Koshihikari Rice, Garlic Mojo Verde
2022 Firetree | Chardonnay | Carneros | CA
10-Day Dry-Aged Hiramasa
Tenbrink Farm Pluots, Avocado, Citrus-Tamarid Aguachile
2023 Kenefick Ranch | Sauvignon Blanc | Calistoga | CA
12-Day Dry-Aged Ruby Red Kinki
Watsonville Baby Artichoke, Dwelley Farm Pole Beans, Mussel-Pernod Fume
2022 Diamond Mountain Vineyard | Chardonnay | Calistoga | CA
California Squab
Tenbrink Farm Cherries, Coriander, Mole Negro
2019 Knights Bridge | Cabernet Sauvignon | Knights Valley | Calistoga | CA
21-Day Dry-Aged Kagoshima Japanese Wagyu
Golden Chanterelles, Bok Choy, Summer Squash
2019 Eisele Vineyard | Cabernet Sauvignon | Calistoga | CA
Tenbrink Farm Peaches
Straus Yogurt Sorbet, Basil Cake, Marshall’s Farm Honey Vinaigrette
2019 Stony Hill | Semilon du Soleil | Semillon | Spring Mountain District | CA
Cinnamon Buñuelo
Caramelized Chocolate Cremeux, Banana, Horchata
2012 Alpha Omega | Sauvignon Blanc + Semillon | Late Harvest | Napa Valley | CA
Auro has created something extraordinary here, a dining event that speaks to all the senses, telling the story of Napa through each carefully crafted bite and sip. This promises to be an evening you will treasure long after the last course has been enjoyed, filled with memories that linger just like the exquisite aftertaste of the wines. Upcoming dinners feature collaborations with renowned wineries, each offering a unique glimpse into Napa Valley’s diverse terroir:
July 31 – Shafer Vineyards
Shafer Vineyards, celebrated for its Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon, has been a pillar of Napa Valley’s Stags Leap District since 1972. Their dedication to sustainable practices and the production of consistently high-quality wines has garnered them numerous accolades, including the prestigious “Wine of the Year” award from Wine Spectator.
August 28 – Elusa Winery
Located at the foot of the Four Seasons Napa Valley property, Elusa is a hidden gem that highlights the exceptional terroir of Calistoga. Winemaker Jonathan Walden, in collaboration with acclaimed winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown—who has received multiple 100-point scores from wine critics—creates limited-production wines that beautifully reflect the region’s volcanic soils and diverse microclimates.
September 25 – The Donum Estate
By fusing art with viticulture, Donum crafts exceptional Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the Carneros region. The estate features one of the largest private sculpture collections globally, offering a distinctive wine tasting experience that captivates all the senses.
October 30 – Hundred Acre Wine
Hundred Acre is a prestigious winery in Napa Valley, established by the visionary winemaker Jayson Woodbridge. It is celebrated for crafting highly sought-after, limited-production Cabernet Sauvignons that consistently earn perfect 100-point ratings from critics and command some of the highest prices in the region.
Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley is located in Calistoga, CA
Guests can elevate their experience with an overnight stay package, available for selected dates between July 22, 2024, and December 31, 2024. This package offers a complete wine country getaway, featuring a Michelin-Starred dinner at Auro set within a world-class vineyard. Experience why Auro is a must-visit destination for food lovers in Napa Valley. Click here to learn more.
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The Emerging Trends Fueling Growth in Idaho’s Wine Industry
River in the Sawtooth Mountain Range of Idaho – A State That Now Has 65+ Wineries
If you are seeking a state where you can enjoy an outdoor vacation and drink award-winning wine, then Idaho should be on your radar. Though most people think of Idaho as a place to go hiking and camping amongst breathtaking mountains and lakes, rafting down wild rivers, or skiing at Sun Valley in the winter months, in the past two decades Idaho has been rapidly expanding its wine industry.
“Most people don’t know that Idaho settlers first planted wine grapes and produced wine here in the 1860’s, and today we have more than 65 wineries,” stated Ashlee Struble, Industry Relations Manager with the Idaho Wine Commission, in a recent email interview.
Even more interesting is that 47% of Idaho wineries are women owned. “We, as an industry, are incredibly lucky to have so many talented and intelligent women who are making their mark and forging a path for future generations,” stated Ashlee.
Yet the positive growth of the industry is rather recent. In 2002, there were only 12 wineries in Idaho, and in 2024, there are more than 65 wineries with 1,300 vineyard acres. The total economic impact of the wine industry to the state was $314.2 million in 2022, according to the Idaho Wine Commission website.
So what has created such positive growth in the Idaho wine industry? Ashlee cites five major factors: 1) Ideal grape growing conditions (warm days, cool nights and higher altitude); 2) Increased consumer awareness; 3) A supportive industry environment; 4) Wine tourism and local community support; and 5) Increased access to viticulture and winemaking education.
Ashlee Struble, Industry Relations Manager with the Idaho Wine Commission
Idaho wines that have a tendency to win the most gold medals at wine competitions include grenache, tempranillo, riesling, syrah, and sauvignon blanc, though the 65+ wineries located in Idaho also produce many other wine varieties.
“There are more really delicious wines produced by Idaho winemakers than there were even a decade ago,” stated Eric Degerman, President & CEO of Great Northwest Wine magazine and Director of the Cascadia International Wine Competition. “In the past four years, the best-of-show wine has been made with Idaho-grown grapes.”
But what do Idaho wines taste like? Recently I had a chance to taste over 50 Idaho wines on a visit to the state, and was surprised at the fresh fruity component in many of them, combined with a complex savory note on the finish. Due to this earthy minerality and a refreshing high acid, many of the wines have some of the complex notes often found in European wines. Idaho wines also age well, and take on even more complex flavors over time.
“The soil in Idaho has a lot of volcanic red cinder, which can add a savory component to many of the wines and sometimes a touch of sagebrush,” explained Earl Sullivan, Co-Founder and Owner of Telaya Winery, a popular urban winery nestled along the river in Boise, Idaho.
There are actually six different winegrowing regions of Idaho, and three approved appellations, or AVAs (American Viticulture Areas). They are the Snake River Valley AVA near Boise, Eagle Foothills AVA, north of Boise, and the Lewis-Clark Valley AVA in the far north near Lewiston and Moscow.
6 Major Winegrowing Regions of Idaho and 3 AVAs (Appellations)
So where should you start if you want to schedule your next vacation in Idaho and visit a few wineries? According to Ashlee Struble, you can visit local wineries in and around the capital city of Boise in one to two days, or spend a week touring the different Idaho wine regions and also enjoying some great outdoor adventures.
“If you’re planning a trip to Idaho and want to explore our industry in a short amount of time, I highly recommend flying into Boise (the capital) and staying at one of our excellent downtown Boise hotels. From here, wine enthusiasts can easily access several notable wine regions,” she reported.
For example, there are several urban wineries in Boise and the Garden City district to visit, including Telaya, Scoria, Split Rail, and Proletariat, amongst others. In addition, Boise has some excellent wine bars and wine shops, such as Bodovino, Uncorked, and Coiled Wine Bar, as well as the newly opened House of Wine shop, which also offers educational wine tastings.
Only a one hour drive from Boise, and you will be in the middle of the Snake River Valley AVA where there are many wineries. Koenig Vineyards has a large tasting room and a large terrace with views overlooking the valley. Close by are Ste. Chapelle, Indian Creek, Fujishin, Sawtooth, Veer, Hells Canyon Winery, and many more.
If you want to make a full week tour, then Ashlee recommends: “Rent a car, and tour our three renowned AVAs over the course of a week. Enjoy wine tastings and vineyard views while indulging in our excellent local restaurants, outdoor activities, and museums.”
Both the Idaho Wine Commission Visit website and Wines Northwest include a list of Idaho wineries with contact information to assist you in scheduling winery visits. However, Idaho wineries are usually small family owned businesses, so many will still welcome you with warm smiles if you decide to drop by without an appointment.
Idaho’s Koenig Vineyards with Owners, Sydney Nederend, CEO and James Nederend, Winemaker, and Family
Following is a partial list of award-winning Idaho wines that I enjoyed tasting:
· Veer Wine Project 2022 Garnacha (Grenache)
· Indian Creek Winery 2022 Dry Rosé of Syrah
· Sawtooth Winery 2022 Classic Fly Series Dry Riesling
· Hat Ranch Winery 2020 Tempranillo
· Telaya Winery 2021 Turas (Syrah based red blend)
· Koenig Vineyards 2021 Riesling Ice Wine (sweet)
· Huston Vineyards Chicken Dinner 2023 White Wine
· 3100 Cellars 2019 Sparkling Wine
So, what is the future of the Idaho wine industry? According to Ashlee, “The future of Idaho wine is bright, marked by continued growth, enhanced quality, and increasing recognition.”
Eric Degerman agrees with her: “There will be more delicious wines than ever coming out of Idaho. There are several exciting young vineyard plantings spearheaded by talented farming families and/or retired business leaders.”
There also appears to be much support from the local community, because many of the winery visitors I met were locals who had joined the wine club and enjoyed hanging out with friends to socialize and taste wine.
For an excellent video overview of Idaho wine, check out Madeline Puckette’s, Founder of Wine Folly, YouTube video below:
Author’s Note: I grew up in southeast Idaho near the Wyoming border and the town of Soda Springs, but there are no wineries in that part of Idaho – only cattle ranches, wheat fields, and incredibly beautiful mountains and scenery. It was enjoyable to go back to Idaho this summer and witness the positive growth of the Idaho wine industry, and all of the excitement and passion of the small family grape growers and winemakers.
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Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain:
User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in:
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Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service.
Vintage Wine Estates Declares Bankruptcy: Begins Asset Liquidation Process
Vintage Wine Estates Inc., a Santa Rosa-anchored producer of Ace Cider and wine brands B.R. Cohn, Girard, Clos Pegase and Viansa, on Wednesday announced it has filed for Chapter 11 reorganization as it has increasingly struggled in recent months to pay debts.
The filings in Bankruptcy Court are intended to “establish a fair, structured process for VWE to address outstanding debt obligations while the business pursues the sale of its assets,“ the company said in the news release. Vintage is looking for the ”sale of all or substantially all“ of its assets.
The company said it “experienced negative financial headwinds that severely impacted its liquidity position. In response, the Company explored several solutions to overcome these challenges, with the monetization of all assets being the most viable path forward to maximize value.”
The latest to be sold to pay down debt is Napa Valley’s Cosentino Winery at 7415 St. Helena Highway Yountville. The real estate and equipment for the Napa Valley facility were sold to Gene Wines LLC on Friday for $10.5 million.
As of March 31, the company had about $475 million in assets and $400 million in liabilities, according to a court filing by Seth Kaufman, CEO.
Chief among those liabilities was around $310 million Vintage still owed on secured lines of credit from BMO Bank at the time of the Chapter 11 filings, Kaufman said. His 45-page document recounted the company’s rapid growth through acquisition in recent years, impact of the pandemic on the wine business overall and Vintage’s restructuring strategy put into place in early 2023.
The company in late 2022 had obtained commitments for $458 million in credit lines from Bank of the West, which BMO acquired. But some of those commitments were reduced by $83 million in October of last year after four changes that gave Vintage more time to provide financial records and other information required.
Last September, Vintage brought in investment banker Oppenheimer & Co. to explore takers on three options: find a buyer for all or most of the assets, find an investor for a minority stake or sell individual brands or assets.
When that wasn’t successful, Vintage in January of this year ratcheted up its restructuring plan, including layoffs of 15% more workers on top of the 4% job cuts six months earlier. The company also committed to focusing on “super premium-plus” estate wineries such as Girard, Kunde, B.R. Cohn, Laetitia and Firesteed.
Former executive Karla Reed on Wednesday reflected on the news of the Chapter 11 filing. Reed, now co-founder of boutique Sebastopol vintner Wild Rising Wines, had been working for the company and its predecessor from 2010 until rounds of layoffs early last year. For the last four years, Reed was vice president of finished goods supply chain.
“It’s a sad day for Vintage Wine Estate employees who have worked so hard over the years to build a strong company and see it fall,” Reed told The Press Democrat.
This past March, Vintage brought in GLC Advisors and GLC Securities to find who might bid on company assets before or after a filing for reorganization, Kaufman said in the document.
“Quickly, however, it became apparent that the Company was unlikely to succeed in monetizing the majority of these assets through an out-of-court process, although it was able to close the sale of its Cosentino assets prepetition,“ Kaufman said.
Vintage’s challenges with liquidity continued this year. In February, the company entered the first of multiple forbearance agreements with its lenders that extended payment deadlines, waived previous breaches in requirements to submit financial documents, adjusted interest rates and reduced the credit line by $20 million.
The most recent forbearance agreement was set to expire this Wednesday, July 25. Last Thursday, July 18, the credit agreement was amended for a fifth time, with an advance of $7.5 million.
Vintage also filed with the Securities & Exchange Commission to delist its stock, traded on the Nasdaq exchange under the ticker symbols VWE and VWEWW.
The Vintage Wine Estates portfolio has over 30 wine, spirits and cider brands including luxury and “lifestyle” wines. The company owns and leases about 1,850 acres of vineyards and operates 11 wineries and nine tasting rooms, according to court documents. It employs more than 400 employees in 15 states.
Jeff Quackenbush covers wine, construction and real estate. Reach him at jquackenbush@busjrnl.com or 707-521-4256.
Press Democrat wine writer Peg Melnik contributed to this report.









