Wine 1004
When Wine Became Warfare: The Historical Clash Over the Gamay Grape Led by the Duke of Burgundy
On July 31, 1395, the Duke of Burgundy declared a war of annihilation on an “evil and disloyal” enemy and invader: a purple, acidic grape known as “Gamay.”
According to the ordinance issued by Philip the Bold, Gamay not only threatened the livelihoods of honest vignerons who used higher-quality grapes, but also ruined Burgundy’s reputation for fine Pinot Noir wines with its bitter taste and apparently harmful effects on public health. In order to safeguard the esteemed Pinot Noir and the well-being of Philip’s people, the ordinance declared, all Gamay vines were to be cut down within a month and completely uprooted by the following Easter: “ripped out, eradicated, destroyed, reduced to nought … forever.”
If the language of the edict seemed needlessly vindictive, perhaps it was because this war was personal to Philip, a keen economic steward who had worked assiduously to develop Burgundian wine production. As a younger son to King John II of France, Philip had received Burgundy as a compensation prize while his elder brother Charles V succeeded to the throne. With royal authority now disintegrating under the latter’s mentally unstable son Charles VI, the ambitious Philip sought not only to rule his appanage as an effectively independent duke, but also to outshine all other fiefdoms in power, riches, and magnificence.
In this competition, Philip understood that wine, with the trade revenue and prestige it brought to him and his duchy, was a most valuable currency.
In the Late Middle Ages, Burgundian Pinot Noir was rapidly establishing itself as a superior variety of wine, yet it faced considerable threats from both natural disasters and human actions. The Hundred Years’ War brought English soldiers who wreaked havoc in the region, and not long afterward, the Black Death hit Burgundy hard in 1348 and even harder in 1360.
The path to recovery was sluggish, and during the 1390s, Philip the Bold became alarmed by a new challenge. The Gamay grape, originating from a small village near Beaune, started to proliferate in Burgundian vineyards. It was productive, yielding about triple the wine per acre and maturing two weeks earlier than the Pinot grape.
Although high yields were not inherently a problem, the abundance of what was considered an inferior grape compared to Pinot was troubling to the duke. He was concerned that the Gamay vines would dominate the land, displacing the more esteemed Pinot or other more valuable crops. Philip lamented that vineyards best suited for high-quality wine were being neglected for the sake of maximizing output of lesser wines. He criticized the use of organic fertilizer on vines for imparting undesirable flavors and accused some vendors of diluting Gamay wine with hot water to mask its bitterness, which would later revert, rendering the wine “quite foul.”
Philip described this inferior wine as harmful to human health, a claim based not on his own experience but on hearsay—believing that its bitterness was indicative of broader dangers. In contrast, he praised the Pinot Noir as being highly beneficial for health. This negative view toward Gamay led to a decrease in the overall prestige of Burgundian wines, as it began to be identified not by the renowned Pinot variant but by the ubiquitous Gamay vine. This shift deeply troubled Philip, leading him to vocalize significant concern for his land and people, emphasizing the urgent need for intervention to preserve the reputation and quality of Burgundian wine.
That remedy was an order for the destruction of all Gamay vines within a month. Because Philip issued the ordinance at the end of July, vignerons would have to cut down their own harvest just as the grapes were beginning to ripen. Most poorer vignerons, more concerned about feeding and sheltering their families than the lofty ambitions and tastes of a royal prince, appreciated the Gamay for its easy harvest and high yield, which offered a reprieve that the temperamental and needy Pinot could not provide.
While Philip threatened a heavy fine for infractions, the prospect of losing much of their 1395 vintage would ruin Gamay growers who could not have foreseen the new orders. It’s probable that many of them, staying true to the healthy medieval tradition of popular resistance against unjust laws, disobeyed Philip’s ordinance, preferring to risk a fine than guarantee their own ruin.
Philip claimed in the ordinance to receive support from “many bourgeois [townspeople] and others of our good towns of Beaune, Dijon, and Chalon and their environs” who benefited from the influx of revenue and goods that came with selling good wine, but the actual reaction told an entirely different story. On August 9, 1395, the municipal council of Dijon, the largest city in the duchy proper (not counting the Flemish possessions of Philip’s wife), denounced the ordinance as a violation of their civic privileges and refused to publish or implement it. The duke responded by throwing the mayor in prison and appointing a governor to take control on the pretext of dealing with the alleged Gamay-and-water malpractice, possibly violating Dijon’s original charter that gave its own citizens responsibility for supervising the city’s economic life.
If the duke thought his heavy hand would stabilize Burgundy’s wine sector and move the region towards prosperity, he was wrong. The destruction of Gamay vines, which had emerged as a natural response to the already-declining productivity that Philip sought to reverse, plunged the region into a recession. Productivity fell ever more steeply, speculation in wine sales collapsed, and poverty gripped a population shorn of their precious trade. Few places were struck more severely than Beaune, the birthplace of Gamay, where records show a drop in the annual local wine monopoly bid from 65 livres in 1394 to just 27 livres in 1400.
Within that same time period, the proportion of financially solvent households in Beaune dropped from 41% to 13%. The Burgundian vineyards would eventually grow back after decades of re-cultivation, by which time commerce had fallen into the hands of foreign merchants and Burgundy had become a backwater in its own namesake polity (a modern label, of course) compared to the trade-enriched Low Countries, which Philip and his descendants acquired through strategic marriages.
Still, the ordinance may have accomplished some of Philip’s objectives. While the ordinance targeted Gamay, the political independence of cities like Dijon and Beaune also fell victim to its enforcement, a possibly intended effect for a ruler seeking to extend his authority. And by imposing prototypical measures designed to address quality control and shape economic output, Philip resembled the head of a modern administrative state using the powers at hand to sketch out the boundaries and character of what would eventually become the official Vin de Bourgogne regional appellation (AOC).
Scatterings of Gamay survived in reduced form, with many of its vines exiled to Beaujolais, an area south of the duchy. There, warmed by golden summers and nurtured by granite-flecked soil, the hated grape re-emerged in triumph, producing a cheerful, elegant variety of wine that, when released and consumed at a young age, shed the bitterness that so offended the ducal tongue. While Beaujolais red remained a cherished table wine for the locals over the next several centuries, its redeeming qualities eventually earned it worldwide popularity and a long-awaited appellation in 1936, followed by a 2011 re-classification as AOC Bourgogne Gamay under the broader Burgundian appellation.
Fortunately for Philip, he did not live to see his defeat at the hands of a grape.
Renowned Winemaker for Iconic Brands Crafts Exclusive Pinot Noir Under His Own Label
Coastlands Vineyard
She embodied strength, freedom, and natural elegance, her hair catching the sunlight as she meticulously prepared the soil for an assortment of 18 Pinot Noir clones. These were the types of grapes that produced wines without the robust structure or the intensity of the popular Cabernet Sauvignon. Unlike the masses, she thrived on exploring uncharted territories. Her past adventures included crafting surfboards in the 1950s, piloting aircraft for swordfish spotting, and dedicating a quarter-century as the art director at Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine. Together with her husband, they ventured into their own path on their Sonoma Coast property in California, a mere three miles from the bracing Pacific Ocean.
In 1989, the couple embarked on a new journey, planting a vineyard of Pinot Noir alongside her marine biologist husband, well before the varietal gained popularity amongst premium wine enthusiasts for its finesse and enchanting aroma. They chose a serene spot, nestled among Bay Laurel trees, dominated by an ancient oak that bore the inscription ‘1906’—likely a memorial of the great San Francisco earthquake.
Their son Ross, a college student at the time, assisted in the vineyard to earn extra money. Ross harbored dreams of a professional music career, performing with his band while studying agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, where he concentrated on soil science. At that point, he had no plans to pursue winemaking or take over the family vineyard, a mere acre and a half of Pinot Noir clones planted on their own roots, yet this small scale farming was a deeply cherished family endeavor.
A few of Ross Cobb’s records
At a pivotal moment in life, Ross chose to deeply engage not only with vineyards but also with mastering the craft of winemaking. His journey led him to work across Sonoma with esteemed wine producers, experiencing operations of various sizes and exploring different wine styles and grape varieties. Ultimately, he developed a deep passion for crafting small-batch, site-specific Pinot Noir through his own venture, Cobb Wines.
Ross also possesses an extensive collection of vinyl records, numbering around 8,000, though he admits to having lost count. With no specific organization to his collection, he enjoys the spontaneity of choosing a record at random, which influences what he listens to next. His collection reflects various phases of his musical taste, including albums that were given to him for free by collectors who needed to free up space. This eclectic collection underscores Ross’s philosophy of finding value in all things, provided one remains open to the possibilities.
Ross’s approach to wine mirrored his open-mindedness in music. Starting in 1994, his first professional engagement was with Ferrari-Carano, where he established their inaugural soil lab, absorbing how to produce fine wines on a grand scale. Seeking diverse experiences, he moved on to work with Randall Grahm at Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, a smaller enterprise about two hours south of Sonoma. Here, Randall was a pioneer in utilizing Rhône grape varieties and experimenting with unconventional grapes and winemaking techniques. The contrast between these experiences enriched Ross’s understanding and appreciation of winemaking’s vast spectrum.
He began his career with renowned Pinot Noir producers along the Sonoma Coast, starting at Williams Selyem as a viticulturist and enologist. He later joined Flowers Winery as an associate winemaker under Hugh Chappelle before taking the lead. His relationship with David Hirsch led him to launch the Hirsch Vineyards brand, serving as head winemaker until his daughter, Jasmine Hirsch, succeeded him.
Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard neighboring Cobbs’ Coastland Vineyard
Meanwhile, Ross’s journey in the wine industry paralleled his parents’ venture of selling a special block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams, a co-founder of Williams Selyem, planted first in 1989. During a visit to taste various Pinot Noir clones at their small vineyard, they found that the Jackson 16 clone, believed to have originated in California in the late 1800s, suited their preferences best. Consequently, the Cobbs expanded their vineyard with more Jackson 16 plantings, adding another 12 and a half acres downhill, totaling 14 acres, becoming a reputed source for top-tier Sonoma Pinot Noir producers.
Remarkably, the original vines planted in 1989, grown on their own roots, have managed without irrigation for approximately 25 years.
Burgundy vineyards
Ross still maintains a passion for a broad variety of music, gravitating towards sounds that inspire him. However, his devotion to wine has grown more focused over the years. Initially crafting small batches of wine from his family’s land while holding a day job at another winery, he eventually left to dedicate himself entirely to nurturing his own brand. This commitment allowed him to delve deeply into the unique characteristics of each segment of their vineyards. His admiration grew for the way top Burgundy wine producers could encapsulate the essence of a place in their bottles. Despite financial constraints, Ross would frequently fly to Burgundy, armed with an assortment of fine California Pinot Noir wines. His visits were welcomed; many producers were eager to exchange knowledge. Ross considered himself fortunate to absorb centuries-old wisdom handed down through generations.
His pilgrimages to Burgundy numbered 14, despite suggestions from peers to explore other regions. Captivated by Burgundian wines, Ross sought to emulate their ability to distinctively represent the nuances of specific vineyard parcels. He was driven by the belief that Pinot Noir, with its sensitivity to terroir, was the perfect conduit for expressing the qualities of his family’s land and eventually broadened this endeavor by acquiring grapes from additional sites.
Coastlands Vineyard
Ross’s family owns the Coastlands Vineyard where he produces a unique wine using grapes solely from his mother’s initial plantings. He’s been experimenting with their preferred Pinot Noir clone, the Jackson 16. This grape not only has aromatic and flavor profiles cherished by his parents and the renowned Burt Williams but also shows potential resistance to phylloxera, a pest known for devastating European vineyards over a century ago. This resistance is notable since the traditional method to combat this pest has been grafting European vines onto American rootstock, and the Cobbs’ decision to plant Pinot Noir on its original roots is exceptional.
Ross emphasizes the measures they take to protect their vineyard from phylloxera, aided by its isolated location. With only two other vineyards nearby and neither affected by the pest, it remains a concern. If Jackson 16 proves resistant, Ross considers planting all his vineyards with own-rooted vines, hoping his daughter might continue this potentially groundbreaking work in viticulture.
Reflecting on the past, Ross recalls the influential moments of his parents planting the vineyard. As a college student unsure of his future, he didn’t appreciate those moments fully. It’s only later in life that the significance of such memories becomes clear, overshadowing past uncertainties. Despite safer career paths, Ross chose to deeply explore and innovate in the craft of making Pinot Noir, striving to achieve the distinctiveness of celebrated Burgundy wines.
During the peak of the harvest season in 2006, Ross’s mother, Diane Cobb, passed away. In remembrance, Ross and his father created a special wine from the original vines she had lovingly chosen, planted, and named it in her honor.
On days when the sun casts a warm golden light over the nearby Pacific Ocean, Ross is often reminded of his mother’s valorous spirit. As a young man overwhelmed by the task of vineyard work, her example of courage profoundly influenced him. Her fearlessness pushed him to take bold steps, including making a significant decision to no longer sell grapes from her cherished plot to another winery. Instead, he chose to craft wine from the Pinot Noir vines she established, dedicating it to her memory and continuing her legacy of boldly embracing life’s challenges.
Lineup of 2021 Cobb Pinot Noir wines
2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: Composed entirely of Pinot Noir. This wine presents tantalizing flavors of mulberry coulis and a hint of cinnamon alongside raspberry cobbler, mingled with complex notes of broken earth and a radiantly vibrant essence.
2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block” Chardonnay
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd, and hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality with a nimble body with a hint of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard is named after Joann, the matriarch of the family that owns it and a friend of Ross Cobb. She adored Chardonnay wine and had the opportunity to taste the first vintage shortly before her passing.
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. An exuberant nose of baking spices, black raspberry scones, and candied violets paired with a grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate, encapsulating an overall sprightly quality.
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. This wine beautifully captures aromas of lavender, fresh sage, and rose oil, combined with pristine red fruits. The palate is delicately structured, showcasing immense finesse.
2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aroma is compelling and rich, featuring a complex mix of black and blue fruits with layers of wild herbs and sweet tobacco leaf. The body is broad, complemented by crisp acidity. This vineyard is managed by Paul Ardzrooni, a fourth-generation grower, who oversees the vineyard management for all the vineyards from which Ross Cobb sources fruit.
Renowned Winemaker Behind Famous Brands Launches His Own Pinot Noir Collection
Coastlands Vineyard
She epitomized resilience, liberty, and effortless charm, as the sunlight caught the nuances of her hair when she worked the soil planting various selections of the obscure Pinot Noir clones. Unlike its robust counterpart, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir crafted more delicate wines and was lesser-known during that era. Nevertheless, she was not one to walk the well-trodden path. Her adventures were many: from designing surfboards for Hobie in the 1950s to piloting aircraft for swordfish spotting, and serving as the art director for Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine for 25 years. She and her husband chose to carve their unique path on their property along the Sonoma Coast in California, situated just three miles from the Pacific Ocean.
In 1989, they embarked on a new adventure, planting a vineyard of Pinot Noir alongside her marine biologist husband, preempting the Pinot Noir trend which later captivated premium wine enthusiasts with its delicate structure and captivating aroma. They nestled their vineyard amid a bay laurel grove, crowned by an ancient oak which bore the inscription ‘1906’, likely a tribute to the monumental San Francisco earthquake of the same year.
Their son Ross also contributed to the vineyard during his college years to support his expenses, despite dreaming of a career in music. He played in a band while studying agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, emphasizing soil science, with no initial aspirations of winemaking or inheriting the vineyard. This small acreage held approximately one and a half acres of meticulously chosen Pinot Noir clones that grew on their own roots, symbolizing a true labor of love.
At a pivotal moment in his life, Ross chose the path of not only working in vineyards but also delving deep into the art of winemaking. His journey led him to collaborate with distinguished wine producers across Sonoma, ranging from expansive to modest operations, which enriched his experience with diverse styles and varietals. His passion eventually focused on crafting small-batch, site-specific Pinot Noir under his own brand, Cobb Wines.
Ross Cobb also harbors a deep appreciation for music, boasting a collection of approximately 8,000 vinyl records—though he’s stopped counting. These records are kept in no particular order, allowing Ross the pleasure of choosing randomly, which mirrors different periods of his musical taste. Some are cherished gifts from individuals needing to off-load their collection, representing his belief that everything has value if one remains open to it.
Similarly, Ross’s approach to wine was initially characterized by a thirst for diverse experiences. His inaugural venture in the wine industry was setting up the first soil lab at Ferrari-Carano in 1994, an enlightening experience in crafting high-end wine at a significant scale. His quest for varied experiences took him to Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, where he worked under Randall Grahm—a pioneer of Rhône grape varietals in California. Working in these contrasting environments, from the large-scale Ferrari-Carano to the smaller scale Bonny Doon, immensely broadened his knowledge and understanding of winemaking.
He started his career with notable Pinot Noir producers in Sonoma Coast, first at Williams Selyem as a viticulturist and enologist, then moving on to become associate winemaker at Flowers Winery under the guidance of Hugh Chappelle. After some time, Ross became the head winemaker before transitioning to Hirsch Vineyards, where he played a key role in launching their own label, thanks to his established connection with the vineyard’s owner, David Hirsch. He remained the head winemaker until his transition was succeeded by Jasmine Hirsch.
Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard which is next to Cobbs’ Coastland Vineyard
Simultaneously, Ross’s journey was paralleled by his parents who began to market a special block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams, co-founder of Williams Selyem, planted in 1989. On visiting the family’s small vineyard to sample different Pinot Noir clones, the clone Jackson 16, purportedly identified in California during the late 1800s, was chosen by Burt Williams for its superior taste, leading to an expansion in their vineyard to include more of the Jackson 16 clone. This expansion added another 12.5 acres, totaling 14 acres dedicated to cultivating this particular clone, hence fortifying their status as suppliers of high-quality Sonoma Pinot Noir.
Remarkably, the vines originally planted in 1989 are still thriving without the need for irrigation for about 25 years.
Burgundy vineyards
Ross has always had an eclectic taste in music, drawn to anything that resonates with him. However, his approach to wine is more discerning. Having formerly juggled winemaking with a day job, he produced small quantities of wine from his family’s land. When he transitioned to full-time winemaking under his family’s brand, he immersed himself in the intricacies of each small section of their vineyards. Inspired by elite Burgundy vintners, who skillfully conveyed a “sense of place” in their wines, Ross found himself frequently visiting Burgundy. Despite strained finances, he traveled, armed only with a backpack, to meet with renowned wine producers, trading insights on superb California Pinot Noir in exchange for their centuries-spanning wisdom.
Ross visited Burgundy 14 times, despite suggestions to explore other regions, captivated by the nuanced expression of tiny vineyard segments in Burgundy’s wines. Eager to mirror this precise portrayal of locality using his family’s vineyards and leveraging Pinot Noir’s natural proclivity for expressing terroir, he also began sourcing from additional vineyard locations.
Coastlands Vineyard
Ross’s family owns Coastlands Vineyard where a unique bottling is done using grapes from his mother’s initial plantings. They experiment with the Pinot Noir clone, Jackson 16, which was praised by his parents and the renowned Burt Williams for its aromatic and flavor profiles and its potential resistance to phylloxera. This pest once wreaked havoc in Europe’s vineyards, and Ross maintains that grafting European vines onto American rootstock is typically the best defense. Unlike others, their vineyard’s Pinot Noir is planted on its native roots, adding to its uniqueness.
Ross takes specific precautions against phylloxera, benefiting from the vineyard’s isolated location, surrounded by only two other vineyards, none of which are affected by the pest. Should the Jackson 16 clone prove resistant, Ross contemplates transitioning all his vineyards to own-rooted vines, a project potentially for his daughter, now 15, to continue, possibly leading to a major viticultural breakthrough.
Reflecting on his youth, Ross recalls the impactful moments of watching his adventurous mother plant vines with his father. At the time, as a college student uncertain about his future, he didn’t fully appreciate those moments. As life progresses, such memories gain significance, outlasting more temporary concerns. Despite a possibly safer career path in winemaking, Ross chose to deeper explore and innovate in crafting exceptional Pinot Noir, inspired by the renowned wines of Burgundy.
During the peak of the 2006 harvest season, Ross’s mother, Diane Cobb, sadly passed away. In her honor, Ross and his father chose to dedicate a special wine from the original block of vines she had personally planted and named it after her. On days when the sun casts a warm golden light over the nearby Pacific Ocean, Ross fondly remembers his mother as one of the most courageous people he’s ever known. His mother’s bold spirit deeply influenced him during his early years, encouraging him to embrace risks and make significant life decisions. This led him to stop selling the grapes from his mother’s unique vine plot to other wineries, despite the financial security it provided. He chose instead to produce his own wine from this cherished Pinot Noir plot, naming it in memory of his mother, a tribute to her formidable character that forever changed his outlook on life.
2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: This wine features 100% Pinot Noir, boasting tantalizing flavors of mulberry coulis and a hint of cinnamon along with raspberry cobbler, combined with rich notes of fragmented earth and an invigorating overall freshness.
2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block” Chardonnay
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd, and a hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality. It offers a nimble body with a touch of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard honors Ross Cobb’s neighbor and friend, Joann, who adored Chardonnay wine. She had the privilege of tasting the inaugural vintage of this wine shortly before her demise.
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. An exuberant nose with baking spices, black raspberry scones, and candied violets, accompanied by a grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate, imparting an overall sprightly quality.
2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A wine that precisely expresses pretty notes of lavender, fresh sage and rose oil with pristine red fruit on the delicately structured palate that expresses so much finesse.
2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A dark, brooding nose that is very intriguing with layers of black and blue fruit layered with wild herbs and sweet tobacco leaf with a broad body and crisp acidity. This vineyard is owned by fourth-generation grower Paul Ardzrooni, who runs the vineyard management company that Ross Cobb uses for all the vineyards where he sources fruit.
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Copart CEO Joins the Fray as Latest Bidder in Vintage Wine Estates Bankruptcy Auction
The CEO of a prominent car salvage empire, which started in North Bay, made a substantial offer of $35 million on Friday for two renowned wineries in Napa Valley. These wineries, part of the assets of Vintage Wine Estates, are due for sale in a Bankruptcy Court next month.
Jayson “Jay” Adair, from Dallas and CEO of Adair Winery Inc., placed the multi-million dollar bid for the Clos Pegase and Girard wineries, as per a court filing. His company was one of three leading new bidders targeting assets, including brands and production facilities, of the Santa Rosa-based portfolio that declared Chapter 11 bankruptcy on July 24.
The following are other preliminary bidders from the same day:
— A company from South Carolina, Vino.com LLC, operating under the name Total Beverage Solution, offered $6.03 million for the wine brands Layer Cake, Tamarack, and Cartlidge & Browne.
Total Beverage Solution is planning to acquire 168,764 cases of Layer Cake, Cartlidge & Browne and Tamarack bottled wine, with a value of $6.03 million.
Bartow Ethanol of Florida LLC, a contract distiller, has offered $6.25 million to purchase Meier’s Wine Cellars Inc., a historic and leading winery based in Cincinnati, Ohio.
These proposals come after the court approved two other bids on Tuesday for six additional assets: Ace Cider, Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Cosentino, Swanson, Bar Dog, and Cherry Pie.
A Bankruptcy Court hearing concerning the new offers is scheduled for August 29.
There’s a Sept. 6 deadline for qualified bids to be submitted ahead of a Sept. 17 auction and Sept. 24 hearing to consider the winning bids.
Jeff Quackenbush covers wine, construction and real estate. Reach him at jquackenbush@busjrnl.com or 707-521-4256.
Unveiling the World’s Best Tequila: Winners of the 2024 International Wine & Spirit Competition
1800 Milenio Extra Añejo Tequila.
If it feels like tequila-based drinks are popping up on cocktail lists everywhere, rest assured, you’re not hallucinating. Tequila, a spirit once consigned to shooters and, even worse, hangovers, is suddenly everyone’s favorite spirit.
As the second most popular spirit in America, only vodka has a larger share; tequila is having its long overdue moment in the spotlight. Much like bourbon, another North American original that has recently been rediscovered by drinkers, a big reason that tequila is booming is the emergence of a plethora of high-quality brands on the market.
These premium and ultra-premium tequilas from Mexico have completely transformed how people view tequila. While it still nicely fits into the party drink category, it is quickly gathering a wide array of fans as an excellent sipping liquor and the perfect base for a memorable cocktail.
The International Wine & Spirits Competition, a venerable and renowned global event, recently announced the winners of its 2024 competition. This prestigious contest, held every year in London, utilizes a blind taste-testing method to score up to 100 points. This year, out of thousands of entries, 107 bottles, including two exceptional tequilas, achieved the Gold Outstanding Medal by scoring 98 points or more. These top-scoring tequilas are both widely available for purchase.
1800 Milenio Extra Añejo Tequila
This exceptional tequila first came into production in 2000 and has been impressing judges and tequila enthusiasts regularly with its releases. Produced at the historic La Rojeña Distillery in Jalisco, Mexico’s tequila heartland, it shares its birthplace with other famous brands like Jose Cuervo and Gran Centenario. Launched in 1975, 1800 Tequila was among the pioneers in crafting premium tequilas, effectively transforming global perceptions of the spirit. The 1800 Milenio Extra Añjeo, their flagship product, is crafted from 100% blue Weber agave, which is carefully grown and harvested at the peak of maturity on family-owned estates in Tequila, Mexico. It undergoes a meticulous and prolonged aging process to achieve its distinctive quality.
After a two-year aging process in oak barrels, the beverage was further refined in French Oak Cognac barrels for a brief period, achieving a famously smooth and well-balanced flavor profile. Currently, it is available for purchase at about $249 per bottle. You can buy it here.
The judging panel commented, “Luscious stone fruit and red apple aromas lead to a perfect mix of alcohol and sweetness in taste. The experience is enriched with a profound mouthfeel and a spicy finish that lingers.”
Lunazul Primero Humosa Blanco Tequila.
Lunazul Primero Humoso Blanco Tequila
When Lunazul Tequila was launched in 2004, it was met with great anticipation. Established by Francisco Beckmann, who comes from the longest-standing tequila-producing lineage in Mexico, his goal was to craft premium, small-batch tequilas that would reveal the intricate tastes of a frequently misunderstood spirit.
To do this, Beckmann established Tierra de Agaves, a boutique distillery nestled within the expanse of the Beckmann family’s vast agave fields, one of the globe’s largest. The distillery prides itself on using only ingredients harvested from their lands, producing tequilas that have consistently won accolades for their robust taste profiles.
Lunazul Primero Humoso Blanco Tequila stands out by combining the smokiness typical of Mezcal with the smooth finish characteristic of a classic Blanco. This is epitomized by its name “humoso”, which translates to ‘smoky’ in Spanish.
This exceptional smoked tequila, crafted using a combination of mesquite wood-smoked agave and fresh blue Weber Agave, offers a distinct taste. Ideal for sipping neat or as a versatile base for various cocktails, it is available at a retail price of $29.99. You can purchase it here.
Here is what the judges had to say about it: “Fresh grass and peppermint creaminess with a whisper of smoke. Rounded and earthy, showcasing nuances of root with tropical and citrus aromatics. Smoothly rounded and balanced with vibrant fruitiness and earthy spices, revealing balsamic and citrus on the lingering finish.”
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Top Wine Chillers and Buckets Endorsed by Expert Sommeliers and Experienced Hosts
We regularly reach out to stylish individuals with unique, discerning tastes to share the products they truly love owning. Explore more about these cool individuals here.
We regularly reach out to stylish individuals with unique, discerning tastes to share the products they truly love owning. Explore more about these cool individuals here.
Wine buckets and chillers are essential for entertaining in the warmer months. The most effective wine chillers and buckets work well both outdoors and inside, maintaining your wine at the ideal temperature for extended durations. To ensure your whites and Champagnes cool adequately, start the chilling process at least 30 minutes prior to serving.
When selecting a wine chiller or bucket, consider the materials and functionalities that will most efficiently cool your beverages. Stainless steel offers longevity, superior insulation, and ease of cleaning, though it tends to show fingerprints. Ceramic options exude elegance but can be hefty and delicate. Plastic models are affordable and light but the quality can be inconsistent. Marble provides a naturally cool surface and sustains chilly temperatures effectively.
I consulted with event planners, restaurant staff, sommeliers, and experienced hosts to gather their recommendations on wine bags, sleeves, chillers, and buckets. For those interested in additional options for keeping your wine cool, we also offer a guide to the best wine coolers and refrigerators.
This fashionable bag is endorsed by Chloe Grigri, the proprietor of the Good King Tavern in Philadelphia, who finds it perfect for BYOB occasions. Its compact size fits small spaces and is easy to carry. “These are popular in France as they are not too bulky and manage condensation well,” she comments. Grigri suggests filling the bag with ice to maintain optimal chillness, though she cautions, “Finish the wine before the ice melts.”
Matt Whitney, a wine director at Sunny’s in Miami, shares his technique for using the wine bag. “Place the bottle inside before adding lots of ice and a little water,” he instructs. “This prevents the bottle from resting unevenly on hard ice, ensuring stability and coolness.” Whitney prefers this simple, portable, and easy-to-clean system for casual gatherings, contrasting with the elegant wine buckets used in Sunny’s dining room.
According to William Eccleston, wine director at Panorama Wine Bar, these plastic wine bags are affordable, durable, compact, and easy to transport. While visiting St. Martin, he noticed their use in cafés and luxury resorts, where they were filled with ice and premium dry rosé bottles. Appreciating their practicality and style, Eccleston introduced a similar, branded ice wine bag at Panorama to efficiently use space on diners’ tables. He keeps these gel-lined bags in the freezer, using them to cool bottles of red wine from room temperature to cellar temperature within approximately 20 minutes.
If you find yourself an impromptu host and need wine chilled quickly, this Vacu Vin sleeve chills a bottle in 15 minutes, no messy ice bath needed. Just keep the sleeve in the freezer ahead of time for at least six hours, then take it out and put the wine bottle in it. CEO of The Hue Society and frequent traveling sommelier Tahiirah Habibi says the wine chiller sleeve has revolutionized her on-the-go wine experience: “Its portability, freezing speed, and elegant bottle look changed the game.” Habibi was originally drawn to its minimalist design and appreciates how well it adapted to her work style.
This CB2 Levanto marble wine chiller is a dramatic display piece. Nicole Cole, CEO and principal designer at Vestige Home, constantly seeks out unique accessories and natural materials and recommends this one because “the footed base on this particular chiller is a real standout feature. I love that it adds height to your tablescape and a more casual, earthy element through the perfectly imperfect stone,” Cole says.
D’Onna Stubblefield also loves this chiller, which fits in just as well at Bloomsday in Philadelphia, where she is a beverage director, as in her home. “I’ve used my chiller for other items like fresh-cut flowers or to store kitchen utensils,” she says. “Even when I’m not chilling my wine, it still makes for a very beautiful addition to my kitchen.”
This Crate & Barrel wine chiller has a classic look and feel that can work with any kitchen style. Like Stubblefield, Wine Convo Generator author Chasity Cooper also uses her marble wine chiller as a vase and even a utensil holder. Cooper likes wine chillers that are functional and ornamental and won’t break the bank. This one doesn’t take up a lot of space and prevents pesky bottle rings that chilled bottles can leave behind on a table, and “it blends in well with other appliances and décor.”
Tablecraft’s heavy-duty marble wine chiller eliminates the need for ice, chills very quickly, and stays cold for a long time. General manager Lawrence Gardner uses this at The Prime Rib in Philadelphia to provide guests with an elegant fine-dining experience. “Guests want to feel like they are dining in luxury, so marble is an important material to have throughout the restaurant, including countertops, tables, and bar tops, and, in this case, our wine cooler,” says Gardner.
Jordanne Pascual-Cancel, wine and service manager at New York restaurant Principe, appreciates the Wine Enthusiast bucket for its durability and ease of cleaning. It comes equipped with a table attachment that secures the wine bucket, conserves valuable table space, and prevents condensation from dripping onto the table. She advises submerging a wine bottle in a mix of ice and cold water immediately after opening it to ensure more even cooling and to prevent the bottle from tipping over,” shares Pascual-Cancel.
Cookbook author and restaurant consultant Nicole A. Taylor opts for a yellow plastic and vinyl bucket during small gatherings as it negates the need for frequent trips to the mini-fridge. It’s well-insulated with a secure top, metal knob and handle, and maintains ice cold for three to five hours. “The vibrant design and color enhance the playful decor of my vacation home in Athens, Georgia, and I have one in my Bed-Stuy apartment as well,” Taylor mentions.
This shatterproof resin material wine tub, designed to mimic alabaster with its pearly white and subtle swirls, is not only sleek but also has practical handling with its cutout features and can hold up to eight bottles. Mural City Cellars co-owner Francesca Galarus uses the lightweight tub for serving numerous guests nightly, needing to change the bottles frequently but the ice only once per shift. “It’s perfect for private-event tastings and farmer’s market setups,” she comments.
This Yeti wine chiller isn’t just practical for outdoor enthusiasts; wine experts also appreciate its extra-durable features. The stainless-steel double-wall insulation maintains a consistent temperature, the robust structure prevents damage, and the non-slip silicone base allows placement on various surfaces (rocks, sand, dirt, grass, etc.) without concern for tipping. “It holds temperature better than any other on the market that I have seen,” Terence Lewis, the beverage director at Safran Turney Hospitality, remarks. “This will hold a slightly chilled red as opposed to a cooler with ice that will actively chill the red further.”
Yeti products are recognized for their durability, attracting committed fans like Liz Einhorn, founder and CEO of Experience Threee, who has been a customer for over ten years. This wine chiller has become her preferred choice for BYOB dining in Philadelphia. She even selects wines based on their fitting in this chiller. It is compact, sturdy, and leak-proof. “I also love to give it as a gift. You can customize the exterior, and it’s something people will actually use and appreciate,” Einhorn states.
Event producer Tini Cochran from Tini Inc. recommends the Togosa, which not only keeps wine and cocktails chilled but also can enliven your tablescapes or enhance service by facilitating guests’ easy access to their drinks. She often employs this dual-purpose wine chiller and pitcher in Texas and New Orleans, where she notes, “it keeps the drinks cold and my stuff dry,” despite intense heat waves and condensation. The Togosa, with triple insulation like a thermos, retains temperatures for up to 48 hours (simply pre-chill your bottle), includes a lockable lid to secure a wine bottle while serving, and comes with a leakproof strainer attachment for portable drinks holding up to 49 ounces of liquid. “The fun colors enhance different décor styles, but it’s my secret weapon for keeping the wine ice cold before serving in glasses at my park dinners or beach outings, rather than using a bulky cooler.”
Alex Cahanap, founder and creative director of Citrine Tablescapes, favors this stainless-steel Society6 wine chiller, particularly because it doubles as both a wine chiller and décor at her BYOB dinner parties and events. She admires the distinctive wraparound designs created by independent artists and the chiller’s ability to maintain wine cool for hours (she places the wine chiller in the freezer for about 30 minutes before use). “They are the epitome of marrying practicality with a splash of artistic flair,” she comments.
This Champagne cooler from Couzon presents a more refined option for those who frequently host gatherings, also serving as an ideal gift for special occasions. It accommodates the largest of Champagne bottles, white wine bottles, and ample ice. Rebecca Hopkins, a wine marketer and the founder of A Balanced Glass, came across this cooler at a social event where magnums of wine were being served. According to Hopkins, its 18/10 stainless-steel composition and double-wall insulation signify superior construction quality, ensuring excellent temperature maintenance and reduced table condensation. For any remaining moisture, she suggests, “Place a service napkin or a felt coaster underneath the bucket to absorb condensation and safeguard the table surface.”
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Exploring the Latest Attractions at the Seven Springs Wine Festival
PTL’s Katie O’Malley travels to the mountains for an early look at the annual Seven Springs Wine Festival.
Savoring Summer: 3 Top Italian Rosé Wines You Need to Try
Many people probably picture Provence when they think of rose wine, but there are so many other countries that produce this perfect summer wine.
And one of them can be found right next door to France in another idyllic wine-producing country – Italy.
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Exploring the Allure of Pinot Noir: Why It’s a Fan Favorite and Tips for Optimal Enjoyment
A close-up photo of pinot noir grapes.
Pinot noir, celebrated for its adaptability and smooth taste, remarkably mirrors the characteristics of its growth environment, endearing it to both winemakers and wine enthusiasts.
With origins dating back over a millennium, pinot noir is famously rooted in France’s Burgundy region. Cultivated since the times of the Romans, it is one of the most esteemed varieties of the region. The grape’s thin skin and disease vulnerability make it a challenging cultivar, often referred to as the “heartbreak grape.” Yet, under ideal conditions, it yields wines with incredible complexity and richness.
There has been a resurgence of interest in pinot noir recently, prompted by an increased recognition of its sophistication and compatibility with various cuisines. Winemakers across the globe are exploring clones and methods to enhance its natural characteristics. Furthermore, there is a growing trend toward sustainable and organic farming practices aimed at achieving more authentic representations of pinot noir.
While Burgundy remains the benchmark for pinot noir, this grape has found success in various corners of the globe.
Pinot noir makes up a substantial part of the U.S. wine market. In 2023, it was the third-most planted grape variety by acreage in California. And just to the north in Oregon, more than half of all the state’s planted grapes in 2022 were pinot noir, accounting for 60% of vines in the state.
New Zealand’s Central Otago and Marlborough regions are also gaining recognition for their vibrant and expressive interpretations of this grape.
As climate change poses challenges for grape growing, the future of pinot noir may see further shifts in where and how it is cultivated.
What makes pinot noir so special? It’s the grape’s remarkable ability to express the nuances of its terroir. The best pinot noirs are known for their complex aromas, often featuring red and black fruits, floral notes and a hint of earthiness or minerality. On the palate, they are typically light to medium-bodied, with bright acidity and silky tannins. This makes pinot noir a versatile pairing for a wide range of foods, from roasted poultry and salmon to mushroom dishes and soft cheeses.
And being a lighter red, pinot noir is a sublime choice for red wine drinkers looking for a bottle that isn’t too overpowering during these hot and heavy summer months. Here are five bottles below that exemplify a solid pinot noir.
At approximately 10% the size of Bordeaux, Burgundy is a small yet significant region renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. It is also the home of Maison Louis Latour, a family-run wine producer with over 200 years of history. Maison Louis Latour excels in crafting Burgundy wines and holds the largest collection of Grand Cru vineyards in the region, offering a wide range of price points suitable for newcomers to French wine. Among their notable wines is the 2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, featuring a dark ruby hue, a nose of red fruit and aromas of blackcurrant. This wine pairs well with grilled meat and aged cheeses.
This one is an ideal choice for summer grilling, thanks to its versatile and complex flavor profile that features bright red fruits and a smooth texture. These elements pair well with various BBQ dishes, while its spicy and smoky notes complement grilled foods perfectly. Touted as a benchmark for Oregon pinot noirs, the Ponzi Vineyards 2022 Laurelwood pinot noir is crafted from sustainably farmed vineyards, adding to its appeal. The Ponzi family has been producing pinot noir for over 50 years, cultivating 140 acres of certified sustainable vineyards on Laurelwood soils in the Willamette Valley. The Laurelwood District AVA, pioneered by sisters Maria and Luisa Ponzi, features ancient fractured basalts layered with fine loess, imparting unique characteristics to their wines, making this pinot noir a sophisticated yet approachable option for social celebrations.
Reed and Megan Skupny’s Rockhound Wine, a new venture from the second generation of the family-run Napa Valley winery Lang & Reed, launched a few years ago with a mission to produce innovative wines that defy traditional boundaries in the wine industry. Their 2021 pinot noir, sourced from the Radian Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills in Southern California, was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels. This full-bodied wine showcases hints of balsam and strawberries, with flavors of bramble berry pie, dark chocolate and coffee nibs on the finish. The wine, with an alcohol content of 15.3%, is ideally served slightly chilled in warmer weather with a Niçoise salad or during winter with braised lamb shanks and parmesan polenta.
Founded in 1962 by viticulturist Dr. Konstantin Frank, this Finger Lakes winery revolutionized New York state and American viticulture at large by introducing wine grape plants to the Eastern United States. Now led by fourth-generation Meaghan Frank and her father, Frederick Frank, the winery continues to innovate with a diverse portfolio, including traditional method sparkling wines, ancient Georgian varieties and renowned rieslings and pinot noirs that highlight the Finger Lakes terroir. The winery’s original pinot noir vines, planted in 1958, produce lovely wines with notes of cranberries, cherries and subtle oak notes. This light-bodied 2021 pinot noir pairs well with foods like mushrooms, grilled chicken or tuna, pork tenderloin and seared salmon.
Yering Station was the first vineyard with vines planted in 1838 in the state of Victoria in southeastern Australia. Situated in the Yarra Valley, the estate encompasses five vineyard sites across the Yarra Glen and Coldstream sub-regions, benefiting from elevations of 150 to 1,500 feet. Acquired by the Rathbone family in 1996, Yering Station has achieved international acclaim for its viticultural innovation and sustainability practices. Renowned for producing top cool-climate pinot noir (as well as chardonnay and shiraz), the winery’s 2021 pinot noir showcases an elegant tannin structure, bright acidity, and a berry fruit profile, enhanced by 10 months of barrel fermentation in new and used French oak, which imparts warmth and spice notes.
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Navigating the Storm: Robert Joseph Discusses the Current Challenges Facing the Wine Industry
Low Alcohol and No-Alcohol wines are an increasing challenge to the wine industry
The wine industry is encountering challenging winds. We recently spoke with notable British wine critic Robert Joseph to gain new insights.
Robert Joseph, a highly regarded British wine critic, journalist, and writer, started his career in the 1980s with wine journalism, co-creating Wine International magazine and initiating the International Wine Challenge, one of the most prestigious wine contests globally.
Joseph has written multiple books about wine, including The Complete Encyclopedia of Wine and Robert Joseph’s Ultimate Wine Companion. He routinely writes columns for various wine magazines and has been featured on television multiple times.
In addition to critiquing, Joseph has a deep-seated passion for viticulture. He helped establish the globally recognized wine label Le Grand Noir and often provides consulting services.
JM: You’ve asserted that the wine industry places too much emphasis on consumer education, suggesting that one doesn’t need to be a leather expert to purchase shoes but simply must find shoes they appreciate. How do you believe the industry should aid consumers in discovering wines they enjoy instead of focusing on education?
RJ: The wine sector can draw lessons from the spirits industry, which seldom concentrates on educating consumers about the production differences between spirits like gin, vodka, and rum; similarly, Champagne producers focus on crafting appealing products. Take Aperol Spritz enthusiasts for example; few know about its origins or production process, but they delight in the drink’s taste and appearance. Some wine brands like Whispering Angel and Barefoot have successfully adopted this consumer-centric approach, catering to varied price segments.
Barefoot Wines Range of Sweet and Fruity Wines
JM: It’s estimated that 85% or more of the wine industry’s sales are at price points below $20. Does the wine media adequately cover lower-priced wines, or is there too much emphasis on the expensive, plus-$20 wines that most consumers do not buy?
RJ: The wine media – which, as a critic, I was once part of – quite reasonably focuses on what it sees as the more ‘interesting’ wines, just as automotive writers don’t spend quite as much time on the latest cheap Nissan as on the exciting new BMW.
But my favorite critic in any domain—the movie critic Roger Ebert—wasn’t like that. He was as ready to cover new teen flicks as the latest Scorsese. So, yes, we do need more writers looking at entry-level wines, but with an eye to whether they are ‘fit-for-purpose’ rather than whether they match up to a different set of quality criteria. Their failure to do this has opened the door to Vivino and influencers who are happy to do the job for them.
JM: Wine competitions are held globally, with awards from prestigious events significantly boosting new brands. The judges in these events are typically professionals with extensive credentials in the wine industry, credentials obtained after intensive studies and tests. However, one might question whether these judges align well with the tastes and values of regular wine consumers when it comes to everyday purchases.
RJ: As a founder of the IWC and a board member at Mundus Vini in Germany, I speak cautiously. The judges in these competitions focus on determining the absolute quality of the wines, which is a crucial aspect similar to evaluating performances in the Olympics or dog shows.
But it’s important to remember that the typical consumer does not purchase wine ‘blind’ as done in these competitions. Consumers see the label, know the region, grape, brand, and price, which all influence their purchasing decisions. Consequently, a medal from a competition or a critic’s rating is just one factor among many that a consumer may consider.
JM: In North America, wine sales have been relatively stagnant over the past five years. Sales of red wine have slightly dipped, while sales of white wine have seen a small rise. Rosé wines, starting from a small base, have seen a sharp increase in volume, though this growth rate has notably slowed. These trends raise the question of whether there are shifting demand patterns for wine or if this signals a persistent flat to downward trend in the market.
RJ: The shift to pink and white and sparkling is interesting because it reveals the way wine has become a, quite possibly, simple beverage rather than a complicated accompaniment to food. People know they like, or don’t like – Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc and order accordingly.
With rosé, it’s even simpler: dry or sweet. Who knows the grape behind the pink wine in their glass? Who cares? It is interesting to consider the position of Red Blends in the US market. These fill a similar role: a predictable drink.
Friends are having a celebratory toast of rosé wine together during a party.
Of course, plenty of people love complexity and are eager to try Georgian Qvevri wines and French Pet Nat. But these people are the exceptions to the wine-drinking rule—despite the space that’s quite reasonably dedicated to them by the wine media.
JM: How has the introduction of canned wines, including flavored wines, changed the dynamics of the wine marketplace? Is it resulting in a net expansion of the market or driving a migration to lower price points?
RJ: These products aren’t necessarily cheap. But they fit my narrative of helping reposition wine as a beverage rather than a ‘noble’, complex product that must be taken seriously. I see no reason to imagine they will disappear despite the wishes of many wine conservatives.
JM: Younger consumers seem less interested in wine consumption. Roughly a third of Gen Z consumers say they prefer no alcohol or low-alcohol beverages. How should the wine industry respond to this generational preference?
RJ: There are two answers. 1) embrace this and produce lo-no wine-based drinks to satisfy their demand. I am unashamedly doing with a le Grand Noir 0.0% extension to our range. 2) promote the unique, historic qualities of wine that make it such a great convivial product and such a delicious partner to food.
1) and 2) are not mutually exclusive. Evidence suggests that individuals who enjoy non-alcoholic beverages often drink alcoholic ones too, sometimes within the same event. It would be great to see someone start their evening with a glass of le Grand Noir 0.0% Blanc and then move on to enjoy a 12.5% le Grand Noir Pinot Noir with dinner, or perhaps as a subsequent drink.
JM: Baby boomers had a preference for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Are the Millennials and subsequent generations leaning towards different varieties like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc? Has the wine industry adapted to these shifting preferences?
RJ: The situation isn’t black and white. Indeed, the younger contingent is gravitating towards the lighter and fresher taste profiles of Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Prosecco, and Pinot Noir. However, it’s premature to dismiss the relevance of Cabernet and Chardonnay just yet.
As mentioned previously about Red Blends, I believe alternatives will become increasingly popular. I am currently developing a wine in Georgia named K’AVSHIRI, which incorporates a mix of Georgian grape varieties, winemaking techniques, regions, and vintages. This wine challenges conventional norms, setting a precedent that I anticipate others will emulate.
JM: Are we producing an excess of wine, and is it priced too high?
RJ: Given the overall consumption levels worldwide, it’s clear that the wine production has been excessive for some time. It’s only recently that this has become widely acknowledged. Moreover, a significant amount of wine is sold too cheaply, yielding minimal profits, a situation made even more precarious by climate uncertainties.
There’s a growing trend where the younger generation in European wine-making families are reluctant to follow in their parents’ footsteps. Consequently, I anticipate a decrease in production by 15-20%, primarily affecting the lower end of the market. Large-scale producers like Gallo and European cooperatives, which are structured to produce inexpensive wine, will dominate this segment.
At the high end of the market, esteemed wines, akin to top-tier restaurants and luxury fashion brands, will likely endure. Those positioned in the middle, however, may face significant challenges.
Are they priced low enough to draw in consumers unwilling or unable to spend beyond $12-15? Do they have sufficient marketing to appeal to those with larger budgets? This circles back to the beginning. Spirits and beer brands possess margins that allow for marketing, justifying the high prices that sustain these margins. Many wine businesses lack adequate funds.
JM: Thank you.









