Coastlands Vineyard

She embodied strength, freedom, and natural elegance, her hair catching the sunlight as she meticulously prepared the soil for an assortment of 18 Pinot Noir clones. These were the types of grapes that produced wines without the robust structure or the intensity of the popular Cabernet Sauvignon. Unlike the masses, she thrived on exploring uncharted territories. Her past adventures included crafting surfboards in the 1950s, piloting aircraft for swordfish spotting, and dedicating a quarter-century as the art director at Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine. Together with her husband, they ventured into their own path on their Sonoma Coast property in California, a mere three miles from the bracing Pacific Ocean.

In 1989, the couple embarked on a new journey, planting a vineyard of Pinot Noir alongside her marine biologist husband, well before the varietal gained popularity amongst premium wine enthusiasts for its finesse and enchanting aroma. They chose a serene spot, nestled among Bay Laurel trees, dominated by an ancient oak that bore the inscription ‘1906’—likely a memorial of the great San Francisco earthquake.

Their son Ross, a college student at the time, assisted in the vineyard to earn extra money. Ross harbored dreams of a professional music career, performing with his band while studying agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, where he concentrated on soil science. At that point, he had no plans to pursue winemaking or take over the family vineyard, a mere acre and a half of Pinot Noir clones planted on their own roots, yet this small scale farming was a deeply cherished family endeavor.

A few of Ross Cobb’s records

At a pivotal moment in life, Ross chose to deeply engage not only with vineyards but also with mastering the craft of winemaking. His journey led him to work across Sonoma with esteemed wine producers, experiencing operations of various sizes and exploring different wine styles and grape varieties. Ultimately, he developed a deep passion for crafting small-batch, site-specific Pinot Noir through his own venture, Cobb Wines.

Ross also possesses an extensive collection of vinyl records, numbering around 8,000, though he admits to having lost count. With no specific organization to his collection, he enjoys the spontaneity of choosing a record at random, which influences what he listens to next. His collection reflects various phases of his musical taste, including albums that were given to him for free by collectors who needed to free up space. This eclectic collection underscores Ross’s philosophy of finding value in all things, provided one remains open to the possibilities.

Ross’s approach to wine mirrored his open-mindedness in music. Starting in 1994, his first professional engagement was with Ferrari-Carano, where he established their inaugural soil lab, absorbing how to produce fine wines on a grand scale. Seeking diverse experiences, he moved on to work with Randall Grahm at Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, a smaller enterprise about two hours south of Sonoma. Here, Randall was a pioneer in utilizing Rhône grape varieties and experimenting with unconventional grapes and winemaking techniques. The contrast between these experiences enriched Ross’s understanding and appreciation of winemaking’s vast spectrum.

He began his career with renowned Pinot Noir producers along the Sonoma Coast, starting at Williams Selyem as a viticulturist and enologist. He later joined Flowers Winery as an associate winemaker under Hugh Chappelle before taking the lead. His relationship with David Hirsch led him to launch the Hirsch Vineyards brand, serving as head winemaker until his daughter, Jasmine Hirsch, succeeded him.

Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard neighboring Cobbs’ Coastland Vineyard

Meanwhile, Ross’s journey in the wine industry paralleled his parents’ venture of selling a special block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams, a co-founder of Williams Selyem, planted first in 1989. During a visit to taste various Pinot Noir clones at their small vineyard, they found that the Jackson 16 clone, believed to have originated in California in the late 1800s, suited their preferences best. Consequently, the Cobbs expanded their vineyard with more Jackson 16 plantings, adding another 12 and a half acres downhill, totaling 14 acres, becoming a reputed source for top-tier Sonoma Pinot Noir producers.

Remarkably, the original vines planted in 1989, grown on their own roots, have managed without irrigation for approximately 25 years.

Burgundy vineyards

Ross still maintains a passion for a broad variety of music, gravitating towards sounds that inspire him. However, his devotion to wine has grown more focused over the years. Initially crafting small batches of wine from his family’s land while holding a day job at another winery, he eventually left to dedicate himself entirely to nurturing his own brand. This commitment allowed him to delve deeply into the unique characteristics of each segment of their vineyards. His admiration grew for the way top Burgundy wine producers could encapsulate the essence of a place in their bottles. Despite financial constraints, Ross would frequently fly to Burgundy, armed with an assortment of fine California Pinot Noir wines. His visits were welcomed; many producers were eager to exchange knowledge. Ross considered himself fortunate to absorb centuries-old wisdom handed down through generations.

His pilgrimages to Burgundy numbered 14, despite suggestions from peers to explore other regions. Captivated by Burgundian wines, Ross sought to emulate their ability to distinctively represent the nuances of specific vineyard parcels. He was driven by the belief that Pinot Noir, with its sensitivity to terroir, was the perfect conduit for expressing the qualities of his family’s land and eventually broadened this endeavor by acquiring grapes from additional sites.

Coastlands Vineyard

Ross’s family owns the Coastlands Vineyard where he produces a unique wine using grapes solely from his mother’s initial plantings. He’s been experimenting with their preferred Pinot Noir clone, the Jackson 16. This grape not only has aromatic and flavor profiles cherished by his parents and the renowned Burt Williams but also shows potential resistance to phylloxera, a pest known for devastating European vineyards over a century ago. This resistance is notable since the traditional method to combat this pest has been grafting European vines onto American rootstock, and the Cobbs’ decision to plant Pinot Noir on its original roots is exceptional.

Ross emphasizes the measures they take to protect their vineyard from phylloxera, aided by its isolated location. With only two other vineyards nearby and neither affected by the pest, it remains a concern. If Jackson 16 proves resistant, Ross considers planting all his vineyards with own-rooted vines, hoping his daughter might continue this potentially groundbreaking work in viticulture.

Reflecting on the past, Ross recalls the influential moments of his parents planting the vineyard. As a college student unsure of his future, he didn’t appreciate those moments fully. It’s only later in life that the significance of such memories becomes clear, overshadowing past uncertainties. Despite safer career paths, Ross chose to deeply explore and innovate in the craft of making Pinot Noir, striving to achieve the distinctiveness of celebrated Burgundy wines.

During the peak of the harvest season in 2006, Ross’s mother, Diane Cobb, passed away. In remembrance, Ross and his father created a special wine from the original vines she had lovingly chosen, planted, and named it in her honor.

On days when the sun casts a warm golden light over the nearby Pacific Ocean, Ross is often reminded of his mother’s valorous spirit. As a young man overwhelmed by the task of vineyard work, her example of courage profoundly influenced him. Her fearlessness pushed him to take bold steps, including making a significant decision to no longer sell grapes from her cherished plot to another winery. Instead, he chose to craft wine from the Pinot Noir vines she established, dedicating it to her memory and continuing her legacy of boldly embracing life’s challenges.

Lineup of 2021 Cobb Pinot Noir wines

2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: Composed entirely of Pinot Noir. This wine presents tantalizing flavors of mulberry coulis and a hint of cinnamon alongside raspberry cobbler, mingled with complex notes of broken earth and a radiantly vibrant essence.

2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block” Chardonnay

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd, and hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality with a nimble body with a hint of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard is named after Joann, the matriarch of the family that owns it and a friend of Ross Cobb. She adored Chardonnay wine and had the opportunity to taste the first vintage shortly before her passing.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. An exuberant nose of baking spices, black raspberry scones, and candied violets paired with a grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate, encapsulating an overall sprightly quality.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. This wine beautifully captures aromas of lavender, fresh sage, and rose oil, combined with pristine red fruits. The palate is delicately structured, showcasing immense finesse.

2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aroma is compelling and rich, featuring a complex mix of black and blue fruits with layers of wild herbs and sweet tobacco leaf. The body is broad, complemented by crisp acidity. This vineyard is managed by Paul Ardzrooni, a fourth-generation grower, who oversees the vineyard management for all the vineyards from which Ross Cobb sources fruit.