Wine 1020

Despite their similar pink hues, blush wine and rosé are distinct entities. Exploring their differences reveals various nuanced aspects, such as their production methods, origins, and pricing.

Rosé is produced using red grape varieties like grenache, pinot noir, and sangiovese, often mixed with mourvèdre or cinsault. After pressing these grapes, their skins are left in contact with the juice briefly to impart the signature color of rosé. In contrast, robust red wines such as cabernet sauvignon and syrah undergo a prolonged maceration period to develop a deeper hue. Rosé production entails a shorter maceration period. (Food-friendly orange wine, interestingly, is made similarly to red or rosé by allowing skins to remain in contact with the juice but uses white wine grapes). The final product is light, fresh, and typically dry, making rosé an excellent base for spicier profiles.

Rosé’s history can be traced back to ancient Greece and Rome, although it might seem like a recent addition to wine menus only from the last decade or so. A 2021 report by bw166 showed that the volume of rosé sales surged by 1433% between 2010 and 2020, according to an article by Forbes.

Read more: 13 Types Of Beer Glasses And When To Use Them

Gillian Mosher, serving as the Senior Director of Global Corporate Communications at NielsonIQ, elucidated the nuances of blush wine in an interview with Forbes. She explained, “Blush wines encompass all pink wines, ranging from budget-friendly boxed white zinfandel to more upscale selections. Rosé, often portrayed as more premium, always includes ‘rosé’ on its label.” Similarities between rosé and other blush wines include their light, crisp qualities, making them ideal for summer or pairing with brunch. However, unlike standard blush wines, rosé is primarily a higher-quality wine, traditionally cultivated and processed in historical wine regions like Provence.

To maintain economical pricing, generic blush wines are generally produced on a large scale. Nonetheless, this does not imply that they lack interest or that their origins are not intriguing. The origin of inexpensive, sweet blush wine traces back to California when, in 1975, an unintended sweet variant of white zinfandel, resulting from incomplete fermentation, was marketed by the Sutter Home Winery in Napa Valley. This product, sweeter and less alcoholic, was sold at a low price, which was either celebrated or criticized by wine consumers. In recent times, some wineries in the New World are dedicating efforts to refine white zinfandel’s image, offering several blush wines other than rosé that are worth sampling. The fundamental lesson here is straightforward: while all rosés can be classified as blush wines, not all blush wines qualify as rosés — yet, both types deserve exploration for their delightful tasting experiences.

Read the original article on Chowhound.

The esteemed winery from Tuscany, Grattamacco, recently presented a vertical tasting of their Super Tuscan red wines, highlighting some lesser-known vintages that distinguished themselves with their sophistication.

The lighthouse on Elba Island, near the Maremma coast where Bolgheri is situated, shines light on the rich beauty of the Maremma area.

The 2008 growing season in Bolgheri, a renowned region in Tuscany, Italy, brought immense satisfaction to the head winemaker, Luca Marrone, marking a stark contrast to his challenging first experience in 2003 at Grattamacco, a trailblazer in Super Tuscan wines. The scorching temperatures of 2003, unusual for European vintners at the time, provided a tough start for him. However, this challenge equipped him well for future uncertainties in winemaking. The year 2013, with its moderate climate, offered another boon for Luca, as the wines from this period displayed an exceptional purity and vibrancy, maturing beautifully, with the 2008 vintage impressing significantly 16 years later.

In Luca’s view, both the 2008 and 2013 vintages did not initially receive the acclaim they deserved, but tasting them now confirms their exceptional qualities.

Chef winemaker Luca Marrone

Luca Marrone, who was trained by Giulio Gambelli—an expert of the Sangiovese grape with a profound understanding applicable across other varieties—learned the importance of subtlety in winemaking. Gambelli taught that the true quality of a wine shouldn’t be overshadowed by raw power, but should strive for a clarity that suggested it had nothing to conceal.

“In nature, you always have the answer,” Gambelli would often say to Luca, especially when a wine seemed lacking.

Particularly, the 2008 and 2013 vintages represented the type of pure expressions Gambelli admired, where even without aggressive ripeness or strong structure, they remained underrated due to their lack of immediate impact upon release, which often generates much excitement and discussion.

Punching down the grape skins in the Grattamacco winery

In the case of 2013, Luca thought there was too little structure, and despite being overtly enthusiastic about the remarkable purity of fruit, for balance, he needed to give the wines a small amount of tannic structure. Now, there are a few ways a winemaker can add tannins to the wines, but when it came to Luca’s choice, he first thought about what Gambelli said about looking to nature when a winemaker is trying to balance the wine. And so, Luca used a method based on how the Ripasso wines are made in the prestigious Italian wine area of Valpolicella, which is in the Veneto region.

The Ripasso wines use a double fermentation technique where the first fermentation turns the grapes into wine. Then, that wine is placed through a second fermentation process that is activated by adding skins from previous wine production. But instead of using previously fermented skins, Luca sacrificed some of his top-quality grapes to add a multifaceted structure to his 2013 wines, and the finished product is outstanding.

White clay in Grattamacco vineyards

Grattamacco is celebrated for its vineyards situated atop the 330-foot Grattamacco Hill, characterized by heavily clay-laden soil. This clay is particularly advantageous in hot vintages due to its capacity to retain moisture, additionally imparting a unique character to Grattamacco wines. This distinctiveness was highlighted in a three-year research study at U.C. Davis, which demonstrated that grapes from Grattamacco exhibited marked differences when contrasted with those from other leading producers in Bolgheri.

Enhancing their extraordinary terroir, Grattamacco acquired an additional plot named Casa Vecchia, situated 325 feet above Grattamacco Hill, featuring its own microclimate. Planted in 1998, this 25-acre vineyard is bordered by forests and was among the initial undertakings in this location, known for yielding grapes of balanced quality, exceptional freshness, and aromatic complexity. While other top winemakers in Bolgheri have also started planting in this region, space is now at a premium, with Grattamacco having planted the majority of vines in this secluded area.

Grattamacco vineyards claim some of the loftiest elevations in Bolgheri.

As the vines of Casa Vecchia have matured, they have increasingly contributed to their premier red wine, the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, enhancing its quality.

Luca discussed the unique traits of Claudio Tipa, the owner of Grattamacco, as a visionary leader who ventures to forge new paths and aim for greater excellence in quality. He honors the principles set by the estate’s original owner, Piermario Meletti Cavallari, ensuring his values remain intact. When Piermario approached retirement with no direct heir for Grattamacco, he opted to lease it to Claudio for ten years in 2002, due to his profound interest in the vineyard. Piermario, observing Claudio’s zeal and the remarkable wines produced under his stewardship, decided to sell the estate to him five years early, confident that Claudio was the perfect custodian for his legacy.

Claudio Tipa’s commitment involves practicing organic and biodynamic viticulture, selecting exceptional sites, and prioritizing quality over quantity to enhance good vintages. He ensures the wines remain fresh and elegant, even when market trends favor robust, overripe variants. Under his guidance, Luca is empowered to fulfill the founding owner’s vision. It’s notably exceptional for Claudio to passionately maintain someone else’s legacy, recognizing that Grattamacco’s value surpasses individual achievements. This perspective highlights Claudio’s understanding of the importance of an estate that consistently produces distinguished vintages, irrespective of their initial reception.

Grattamacco vertical

1991 Grattamacco, Vino da Tavola di Castagneto, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Since the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore designation was not established until 1994, the 1991 vintage was categorized as Vino da Tavola di Castagneto. Comprising 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Sangiovese, the 1991 vintage has been resilient over 33 years, displaying remarkable freshness and complexity. It offers a nuanced array of earthy, herbal, and leather notes, alongside vibrant red cherry flavors and a saline edge. An underrated vintage that exceeds expectations.

1995 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Composed of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. This vintage counts among the best three of the 1990s, showcasing a significant allure with its aromatic presence characterized by dried flowers and a hint of incense, complemented by a richer body that delivers flavors of red cherry pie and blackberry jam. Though not surpassing the 1991, it presents a distinct character.

2008 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Made up of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. This cooler, steady vintage is often overlooked, yet it impresses with its vibrant notes of blackcurrant leaf and freshly harvested raspberries, underpinned by a subtle stony mineral quality. An underrated year that exceeds expectations.

2009 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Constituted by 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. The year was marked by a hot, dry summer, but the vineyards’ white clay, retaining adequate water from prior rainfall, aided in maintaining vine health. It offers dark, intense fruit layers intertwined with licorice and lavender sea salt, presenting a dense palate with succulent blueberry tart notes.

2012 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blending 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. Despite the heat of the season, the vineyard’s commitment to organic and biodynamic practices ensured that the wines retained their freshness and vitality, as pointed out by Luca. The flavors burst with opulent mulberry compote and blackberry scones, enriched by fresh tarragon, offering a luxurious texture balanced by invigorating acidity.

2013 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. This cooler vintage, often compared to 2008 for its understated excellence, exhibits a refined elegance and vibrancy with notes of red raspberries and a hint of spice along with rose oil. It features finely detailed tannins, resulting in a prolonged finish that showcases tremendous finesse. An underrated vintage that surpasses expectations.

2016 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Composed of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. Characterized by its very warm conditions, this vintage produced robust, intense wines. Despite these conditions, this wine maintains the distinctive freshness and precision of Grattamacco. It offers luxuriant flavors of black cherry cobbler and baking spices, perfectly complemented by intricate notes of asphalt and graphite alongside wild Mediterranean herbs. The texture is exceptionally smooth, and the flavor persists impressively.

2021 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Contains 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. According to Wine Spectator, the 2021 vintage may rank as one of the finest in Tuscany’s recent history. This wine already displays exceptional quality with its enrapturing scents of smoldering earth and forest floor. This is further enriched by the sweet floral aroma of candied violets and the luxurious taste of cherries jubilee and blackberry syrup atop spice cake. The silky texture and ultra-fine tannins create a lasting finish.

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HONOLULU (KHON2) — The 14th annual Hawaii Food and Wine Festival is set to begin next month on Hawaii Island and Maui. In preparation for the celebration and to showcase local culinary talents, “Chefs Week” is currently underway and will continue until September 30. Chefs Colin Hazama of the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival and Colin Sato of Mugen Waikiki appeared on Wake Up 2Day Thursday morning to discuss the forthcoming events.

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“We wanted to create an opportunity to highlight the fabulous local culinary talent we have participating in this year’s Festival events, while also encouraging the community to dine at their restaurants during the typically slower post-Labor Day season and help sustain Hawai’i’s vibrant culinary community,” Hazama explained. “To express thanks for dining local during Chefs Week, we’re offering guests an exclusive deal to enhance their Hawaii Food & Wine Festival experience with Priority Access tickets to select events at the General Admission price. Priority Access allows guests early entry to selected events at 5:00 P.M., providing an extra hour to sample the exquisite food, wine, and cocktails and to engage with the chefs, winemakers, and mixologists.”

Village Market celebrating one-year anniversary

Chef Sato emphasizes the importance of supporting local eateries during the off-peak “shoulder seasons” when tourism is low.

“During these slower periods, local establishments like ours really rely on the support of the community. Initiatives such as HFWF24 Chefs Week play a crucial role by motivating locals to dine out and appreciate the offerings of our regional chefs. These efforts help in keeping our dining rooms full which is not only vital for the sustenance of our restaurant and our employees but also for the local producers like farmers, ranchers, and fishermen, plus other businesses dependent on restaurants’ success. Moreover, events such as the forthcoming Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival significantly aid by highlighting our local food and agriculture, which is essential for promoting Hawaii’s culinary scene.”

For more information, you can click here.

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After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve.

Jared Soares

If someone shouted “Virginia” in the middle of a word-association game, “fine wine” might not be your first response. Even some of the state’s winemakers confessed to me that they had, in the past, found many Virginian wines forgettable — or, in some cases, undrinkable. Oh, how times have changed.

Jared Soares

Virginia’s reputation as an underrated wine region has ultimately become one of its greatest strengths. While attention might have traditionally been drawn to places like Napa Valley or the Bordeaux region in France, Virginia’s winemaking is carving out its own unique identity right in between these famous locations. This emerging profile is largely driven by a new generation of wine producers focused on crafting a distinct style exclusive to the area.

Jared Soares

The wine industry in Virginia has seen remarkable growth over the decades: from about 50 wineries in the mid-1990s to approximately 300 today, covering over 4,000 acres of land. This expansion contributes over $1.7 billion to the local economy, benefiting not just from wine sales but also through a thriving tourism sector influenced by wineries, hotels, and dining establishments. This led me to explore whether Virginia’s wine narrative is as rich in quality as it is in quantity. The popular adage “Virginia Is for Lovers” might ring even truer for wine enthusiasts.

For the initial stage of my wine exploration, I stayed at the Salamander Middleburg, situated less than 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. Middleburg isn’t only a hub for wine lovers but is also central to Virginia’s horse riding tradition. The Salamander resort, an epitome of grandeur and old-world charm, pays tribute to this equestrian lifestyle with its horse-themed decor and activities. As I observed guests in sophisticated equestrian attire, I pondered if I had stepped into the setting of a Ralph Lauren fashion show.

Jared Soares

But you don’t need to be a member of the horsey set to enjoy a stay at Salamander. There’s a gym, a spa, bikes available to borrow — and an entire wine region on your doorstep to explore.

“In the mid 1990s, there were about 50 wineries in Virginia; there are now around 300, with more than 4,000 acres under cultivation.”

I began my journey just about a mile down the road at Boxwood Estate Winery. John Kent Cooke, former owner and president of Washington, D.C.’s NFL team, has always had a love for Bordeaux, so at his estate, 26 acres are planted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and other Bordelais varieties. In partnership with French wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, the Boxwood team has created a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, as well as its locally known Topiary blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot — all varieties that express the terroir of Virginia.

During my wine tastings, French wine making consistently emerged as a significant topic. “White Burgundy is my go-to,” mentioned Jim Law, the founder of Linden Vineyards. Located a short 35-minute journey west of Middleburg, this winery is celebrated for its distinctive single-vineyard wines of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Bordeaux-style blends.

Jared Soares

The name Jim Law was frequently mentioned among winemakers, signaling his stature as one of the most influential figures in Virginia winemaking. Known for his willingness to experiment with new grape varieties and various plantings on different soils and slopes, Law was deeply engaged during my visit in mid-September. With grapes being harvested, it was a critical and busy period at the vineyard.

Law appreciates the unpolished charm of his winery. An Ohio native, he is profoundly invested in the agricultural aspect of winemaking, focusing on “understanding the personality and nuance” of each hill on his property. His deep emotional connection to his vineyards was evident. This connection was palpable when I sampled the Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay later in my travel—reflecting the Burgundian influence in its balanced flavors, yet distinctly showcasing the unique character of the rocky slopes and granite soils of Hardscrabble, one of Linden’s three vineyards.

Jared Soares

Beyond his own vines, Law praised the diversity and experimental nature of Virginia wine making as a whole. There is room for everyone to do their own thing, he told me.

Related: 15 Best Weekend Getaways in Virginia, According to Locals

Rutger de Vink, a Law protégé, is another winemaker who is steadfast in his own practice. After years of searching, de Vink, a former Marine, found the ideal spot to grow grapes: on a former cattle farm in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. He laughed heartily when he shared that a farmer had teased him for “buying a pile of goddamn rocks.”

De Vink struck what can only be described as a viticultural jackpot with his rocky vineyard, garnering attention in June when he announced that RdV Vineyards had been acquired by Eutopia Estates, a distinguished French entity owned by the Bouygues family. This company owns esteemed estates like Château Montrose and Château Tronquoy in Bordeaux. Renamed Lost Mountain, in honor of its situated historic knoll surveyed by George Washington—which also inspired the name of RdV’s renowned flagship wine—the vineyard nods to its rich history and setting near the Blue Ridge Mountains.

The rebranding hasn’t altered the vineyard’s inherent character, which continues to form the essence of the wine. This terroir provides the wine with a distinctive identity and depth, aligning with de Vink’s goal to craft an “American Grand Cru.” The reputation of Lost Mountain’s wines is solidly established, boasting a lengthy waitlist of two years for its prestigious $225 blend comprising Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

Aiming to experience this illustrious wine firsthand, I joined the waitlist and also scheduled a tour and tasting at the vineyard. During the visit, it’s possible to meet sommelier Karl Kuhn and original winemaker Joshua Grainer, who are typically available to impart their extensive expertise to visitors. Grainer, holding the prestigious Master of Wine title from the Institute of Masters of Wine in the U.K.—a rare distinction held by only 416 individuals globally—emphasized the vineyard’s philosophy, “We don’t need people to come through the door, but we want to share the experience.”

Jared Soares

Upon my arrival at Early Mountain Vineyards, located in Madison near Shenandoah National Park, I was greeted by a vibrant mix of guests. There were lively senior citizens, a mother relaxing on the deck with her baby and pet dog, and a group of colleagues enjoying a meal together. Early Mountain Vineyards aims to attract visitors not just for its wine but also for its full-service restaurant and ample event space. Spanning over 55 acres, its founder Jean Case, a former AOL executive and philanthropist, ambitiously embarked on this venture.

The wine list was impressive, showcasing a diverse range of 11 different types of grapes. Virginia’s varied geological features, including soils like limestone, sandstone, and granite, contribute to the unique flavor profiles of the grapes cultivated here.

Jared Soares

“Mountainside vineyards are key to the quality of Virginia wines because they are well-draining and provide good airflow,” Early Mountain winemaker Maya Hood White explained. Her Quaker Run Cabernet Franc 2020 exemplifies this. It embodies the elegance and classical style of Chinon—Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley—yet it includes a hint of New World richness and energy.

“The state has some geological advantages that make it a hospitable landscape for a seemingly endless parade of grapes.”

The last person I expected to meet during my trip was a winemaker originally from Piedmont, in the mountains of northern Italy—renowned for the distinguished Barolo. Despite his family’s background in the industry, Luca Paschina was determined to forge his own path in winemaking. At Barboursville Vineyards, situated in Virginia’s own Piedmont area, roughly 30 minutes northeast of Charlottesville, he discovered the ideal location to accomplish this. The winery, owned by the Zonin family, famed for their estates across Italy, allows Paschina to merge Old World and New World tastes, complemented by the Zonins’ shared passion for innovative winemaking.

Paschina’s heritage is also reflected in Barboursville’s range of offerings. He produces a refined Vermentino, a Nebbiolo, and Paxxito, a dessert wine made in the “Passito” style using air-dried Moscato Ottonel and Vidal grapes. For those wishing to immerse themselves fully in the Barboursville experience, bookings are available at the charming 1804 Inn and the exquisite wines can be enjoyed alongside handmade pastas at the Palladio Restaurant.

Jared Soares

Barboursville is the winery where I most strongly felt the richness and complexity of Virginia’s history. The ruins of a building designed by founding father Thomas Jefferson remain on the property, and a portrait of him hangs in the barrel room. As a descendant of enslaved people, my feelings on Jefferson, a well-documented enslaver of human beings from Africa, are complicated — to put it mildly. I’m sure he could never have imagined that someone like me would one day be involved in sharing the beauty of wine. But I share his love of the fermented grape and can’t ignore the significant role he played in the state’s wine-making history.

Jefferson established two vineyards on his Monticello estate and cofounded Virginia’s first commercial wine company. Adjacent to the portrait, a placard reads: “We could, in the United States, make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kind but doubtless as good.”

Jared Soares

I departed from Barboursville, feeling sated by the local cuisine and wine, and my head filled with new knowledge. Upon arriving at Keswick Hall, a mere 25 minutes away, a sense of calm washed over me.

Built in 1912, Keswick Hall has transitioned through several phases, including a private mansion, a country club boasting an 18-hole golf course by Pete Dye, and eventually into a hotel under the design influence of Laura Ashley’s husband. The estate was taken over in 2017 by co-chairs Molly and Robert Hardie of H7 Holdings and underwent extensive renovations, reopening in 2021 with a new annex that expanded its capacity to 80 rooms. The luxurious Duxiana mattresses and Frette linens afforded me a worry-free night’s sleep, while a soothing Rose Diamond Radiance Facial in the spa enhanced my peaceful state.

The culinary highlight of Keswick is the Marigold by Jean-Georges, helmed by the renowned Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The restaurant’s design features rustic timber and transparent elements which frame the spectacular scenery, and its menu revitalizes traditional dishes, including a truffle pizza and cauliflower with turmeric tahini and pistachios. Notably impressive is the wine list, showcasing superb local selections, among which the Linden Vineyard’s Hardscrabble Chardonnay stood out, a beverage I eagerly anticipated since my encounter with Law, proving to be delightfully balanced and refreshing with a persistent finish.

Jared Soares

The final day of my brief yet intense exploration of Virginia’s wine culture began with a visit to Michael Shaps Wineworks, located in Charlottesville. Originally from New York, Shaps pairs his charming confidence with impressive winemaking skills. Like many other Virginia winemakers with a penchant for Burgundy, Shaps takes it further: he trained in winemaking in that region and also possesses a winery, Maison Shaps, in Meursault, France. Besides producing Virginia wines that include familiar varieties like Chardonnay, Viognier, and Merlot, Shaps also enjoys creating new blends. He produces a playfully named sweet wine, Raisin d’Être, utilizing grapes dried in converted tobacco barns. Moreover, he has a special interest in Petit Manseng, a robust white grape from southwestern France, which he cultivates for its flavors of grilled pineapple and mango, describing it as “bulletproof” in the fields.

Jared Soares

I then traveled westward from Charlottesville to Veritas, situated in Afton. The atmosphere was lively: on a warm Friday afternoon, the place was bustling. Over the course of my two-hour stay, I witnessed a diverse crowd including bachelorette parties, couples, families, and colleagues, all converging in the spacious tasting room and outdoor area. I also noted ongoing preparations for a wedding.

Jared Soares

It’s evident that the Hodson family has invested heavily in both the expansive venue and the quality of the wines. This commitment is showcased in selections like the Scintilla sparkling Chardonnay, crafted using the classic champagne method, and the deeply flavorful Petit Verdot. I participated in a thoughtfully arranged wine and food pairing, where the Reserve Chardonnay was served alongside smoked salmon with caper relish and preserved lemon.

Jared Soares

My discussions with local winemakers reveal that innovation is central to Virginia’s wine scene. While they may draw inspiration from various regions, their dedication to understanding their own land, cultivating suitable grape varieties, and refining their winemaking techniques has enabled them to emerge from the shadows of more prominent wine-producing areas. The industry’s leaders might refrain from boasting, but they have certainly demonstrated the capacity to silence their critics. Reflecting on Jefferson’s words, we can indeed say, “look at us now.”

This story first appeared in the October 2024 edition of Travel + Leisure under the title “American Vintage.”

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Read the original article on Travel & Leisure.

Ben Dollard, President of Treasury Americas

With reports of global wine sales volume declines for the past two years, it was refreshing to learn that one of the world’s largest publicly traded wine corporations, Treasury Wine Estates, actually achieved an 8% increase in profit during its recent fiscal year (ending July 30, 2024).

Given Treasury’s flurry of both acquisitions and divestments, many people have been curious about how these results were achieved. Therefore, I reached out to Ben Dollard, President of Treasury Americas, and in an online interview he explained how the company’s new focus on the ultra-premium and luxury wine segments was allowing them to pull ahead of the pack.

“We are pleased with the outcome of our results – specifically with our U.S. wine businesses,” stated Dollard. “Highlights include the acquisitions of Daou and Frank Family wineries to complement our other brands. And we became a $1 billion business for the first time (in Australian dollars).”

The net profit for Treasury Wine Estates was AU$407.5 million (fiscal year 2024), marking an 8% increase from the previous fiscal year, as detailed in their annual report.

What strategies did Treasury Wine Estates, a unique publicly traded wine-only company (unlike its diversely invested competitors), employ to record such a success?

During our discussion, Dollard highlighted five key strategic focus areas that have been instrumental in bolstering Treasury’s profitability.

With a collection of over 70 renowned wine brands worldwide, including historic names like Penfolds Grange in Australia, Georges de Latour at Beaulieu Vineyards, and Beringer Private Reserve in Napa Valley, Treasury has developed a strong and flexible global portfolio.

For example, when China imposed tariffs of up to 200% on Australian wines in 2021 (they were just lifted in March of 2024), Treasury was able to focus on other markets.

“Penfolds was already distributed throughout Europe and the U.S., so we pivoted to other markets,” explained Dollard. “It shows the great strength of our relationships and distribution capability around the world.”

Carefully curating the portfolio is part of this strategic focus, and explains the flurry of acquisitions and divestitures Treasury has embarked upon in the last few years.

“We are focused on the luxury wine market of $20 per bottle and above, and are divesting commercial brands priced at $10 per bottle or less,” reported Dollard.

To this end, they have recently announced they are selling lower priced brands within Blossom Hill, Lindeman’s, Wolf Blass and Yellowglen.

On the luxury side, their acquisition of Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley and Daou in Paso Robles, both well-known brands in the U.S. with price points ranging from $20 to $300 per bottle, match this strategy well.

“Both brands filled out important parts of the portfolio over $20, and they are growing rapidly,” said Dollard. Treasury defines luxury wine brands as over $20 per bottle and premium brands as $11 to $20 per bottle.

Indeed, according to Tim Ford, Treasury Wine Estates CEO, more than 75% of their revenues are derived from their luxury brands.

Daou Winery in Paso Robles, California – Part of the Treasury Americas Portfolio

Treasury doesn’t solely focus on high-end wines, understanding that past financial downturns urged a shift back to more economical choices. Thus, they sustain their popular premium wines, priced between $11 and $20, known as their ‘Bold Brands’ category.

Brands like Matua, 19 Crimes, Squealing Pig, and Pepperjack comprise this division. “These brands help us engage new consumers and invigorate innovation,” stated Dollard.

Innovation is evident through Matua’s innovative label from New Zealand, featuring a thermometer that changes its color to signal the wine’s ideal chill temperature. Similarly, 19 Crimes uses augmented reality technology on its labels to animate narratives of notorious Australian outlaws.

“We believe in investing in digital marketing, technology, and innovation to connect with consumers,” stated Dollard.

“We have a consumer lens, and spend a lot of time trying to understand how consumers want to engage with us and our brands.”

Treasury spends a lot of time focusing on the wine consumer and their needs, and is especially interested in understanding the needs of new consumer segments.

“We have a consumer lens, and spend a lot of time trying to understand how consumers want to engage with us and our brands,” stated Dollard. “We like to be there to engage with consumers in the market and at events, as well as when they visit our wineries.”

Therefore, Treasury creates a variety of consumer experiences at different locations. “We recently participated in the luxury car show in Monterey (Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance), and showcased our Daou wines. It was a great experience with wonderful consumer engagement,” he reported.

Other consumer engagement experiences have included Treasury wines poured at New York Fashion Week, The Daily Front Row events in LA and the Hamptons, Beach Life and the Santa Barbara Film Festival.

Another way they engage with consumers is through philanthropy, especially with their Frank Family brand. “Frank Family has a long tradition of giving back to different charitable causes, and so we want to continue that. It is a great way to show our gratitude and responsibility.”

Portfolio of Wine Brands Offered by Treasury Americas

Major players in the wine industry recognize the importance of maintaining robust relationships with distributors, particularly in the U.S. where the predominant method of selling wine involves the 3-tier system. This system facilitates distributors in promoting and distributing wines to a variety of vendors including grocery stores, restaurants, and wine shops.

“Building strong, enduring connections with our distributors is vital,” noted Dollard.

The strategy involves a collaborative method where the unique competencies of each party are optimized. Treasury, similar to other companies within the sector, collaborates with numerous distributors to expand their market reach across numerous U.S. states and over 70 countries globally.

Considering that Treasury Wine Estates is based in Australia, a nation recognized for its rainwater harvesting expertise since the 1800s, their forward-thinking stance on water conservation and management across their vineyards and production facilities is notable. Their environmental initiatives extend beyond water management.

“Sustainability is part of our DNA. Every day that we wake up we have a responsibility in how we think about the footprint of our wineries. We are always concerned with water management, but also the use of solar, the equipment that is used in the vineyard, and energy conservation,” explained Dollard.

Since Treasury owns 11,300 hectares (27, 933 acres) of vineyards around the world, and is one of the largest landholders in Napa Valley, this type of focus on sustainability is important in the communities in which they operate.

Dollard said that they are also concerned with social responsibility, and have active “community engagement in Napa Valley.” The company currently employees 2,500 team members, and has several programs to promote DEI (diversity, equity and inclusion).

When asked if Treasury has anymore winery acquisitions in mind for the future, Dollard replied: “We are always open to considering opportunities, as long as the winery has amazing and authentic stories to tell.”

In the future, Treasury Wine Estates is committed to prioritizing their luxury and ultra-premium brands while still fostering the growth and innovation of their ‘Bold Brands’.

“Our goal is to remain engaged with our consumers by sharing our brands, telling our stories, offering experiences, and strengthening our distribution and retail partnerships. We also aim to anticipate the preferences of new generations and illustrate how wine can play a vital role in a joyful lifestyle,” stated Dollard.

Penfolds Winery in Australia – A significant part of the Treasury Wine Estates Portfolio

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17-Sep-2024

– Last updated on

17-Sep-2024 at 09:38 GMT

Grape and wine producers confront significant obstacles due to increased production costs, and labor shortages are intensifying these challenges.

The impact of climate change compounds these issues, with elevated temperatures and more frequent extreme weather events disrupting the timing of harvests, the quantity of crops, and the quality of grapes. Such alterations make agricultural planning highly difficult, and in some cases, lead to devastating losses. Notably, global wine production in 2023 fell by 9.6% due to severe climatic conditions(source).

France, Italy, and Spain, the leading global wine producers, collectively account for nearly half of the world’s wine output. The production figures for 2023 highlight the varying impacts of these challenges. France saw a production increase of 4.4%, whereas Italy and Spain experienced significant declines in production, 23% and 22% respectively(source).

And wine is in a long-term structural decline. The category has always relied on older drinkers, and has done little to attract younger drinkers who are much more interested in trending categories such as RTD alcohol and craft beer.

And, in general, alcohol is increasingly under fire as trends shift towards health and wellness – leading to what CEEV calls the ‘demonization of wine’ in health policy. The result is that supply and demand simply don’t match up.

The decline in consumption – along with disruption of trade exchanges from geopolitical disputes and trade conflicts – has created uncertainty in the world wine trade: a big issue for an industry that enjoyed €17.9bn worth of exports in 2022-2023.

This month, the European Committee of Wine Companies (CEEV) participated in a high-level meeting on the future of wine policy with the European Commission: setting out its vision to tackle the challenges facing the wine sector and its key proposed solutions for long-term sustainability.

The effectiveness of solutions for challenges in the wine industry depends on the operations and regulations of wine markets. The approach is dual-pronged: enhancing the competitiveness and adaptability of wine businesses to market demands, and bolstering their resilience against climate related challenges through mitigation and adaptation strategies.

“The EU wine sector faces both long-standing and immediate challenges,” said Mauricio González-Gordon, President of CEEV. “This meeting was critical for strategically discussing the future of EU wine policy. We appreciate the Commission’s efforts in initiating this. The future of the EU wine industry depends on operators who are dedicated to sustainable and continued growth, and it’s important that EU policies support and prioritize these operators.”

There are complex issues in the industry. One significant issue is finding the balance between preserving traditional wine making practices and innovating to meet the needs of newer generations.

One solution might be to enhance the flexibility of geographical indications, which are usually very restrictive, to allow for easier adaptation to climate changes.

Or it might involve revising the production and labeling standards to effectively include dealcoholized, partially de-alcoholized wines, and aromatized wine products, thereby aiding the expansion of no and low alcohol wine options.

There’s another complex issue – perhaps even more challenging to address – which is to discern the role of wine in a society where negativity towards alcohol is growing. The CEEV suggests that addressing this involves distinguishing the harmful effects of alcohol abuse from the moderate consumption of wine.

Yet, the primary focus of the CEEV’s varied policy objectives is to reduce the bureaucracy that vineyards, wineries, and others in the supply chain deal with. Notably, 99% of wine producers in the EU are small or medium-sized enterprises, which are more susceptible to being burdened or confused by diverse and evolving regulations.

Access the CEEV’s policy documents here.

To secure the future of EU wine companies, CEEV proposed a range of policy priorities.

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Pictures from the Maryland Wine Festival on the grounds of the Carroll County Farm Museum on Saturday, Sept. 14.

A widow was instrumental in pioneering the popular Brut Champagne style 150 years ago, and today, a notable woman commemorates her legacy with the launch of an exclusive champagne.

Two glasses of Champagne

The cellar of Champagne Pommery

An unexpected explosion, followed by a cascading fountain of champagne and flying glass shards, alarmed the visitors greatly, some of whom trembled with fear. Yet, this did not deter them from returning, often with more friends and family in tow. They were drawn to a captivating adventure, plunging more than 100 feet below ground by descending 116 steps into a vast subterranean realm adorned with dramatic sculptures etched into the chalk walls. This extraordinary experience, a pinnacle of amusement during those times, was surprisingly the achievement of one individual—a widow from the late 19th century in the renowned Champagne wine region.

A tableau carved into the Pommery cellar walls

In 1868, Madame Pommery initiated a significant construction project in Reims, located in the illustrious Champagne region of France. This venture extended over 11 miles and delved deep into the earth’s chalk-rich strata. Being an art enthusiast, Madame Pommery had an artist sculpt legendary scenes into the chalk walls, which came to life as visitors illuminated them with candles while touring the tunnels beneath the Champagne Pommery estate. At the time, creating thicker glass Champagne bottles to withstand internal pressure was unknown, leading to occasional bottle explosions. Ingeniously, Madame Pommery supplied visitors with fencing masks for protection against such accidents.

In a groundbreaking move in 1874, Madame Pommery introduced the iconic Pommery Brut Champagne. Before this, most Champagnes were sweetened heavily with sugar and considered dessert wines. Madame Pommery’s creation of the dry Brut style redefined Champagne as a beverage suitable for consumption before, during meals, or on its own.

To commemorate this significant innovation, the Vranken family, current owners of Champagne Pommery, led by the formidable Nathalie and her daughter Pauline, is releasing a special cuvée named Apanage 1874.

Champagne Pommery ‘Apanage 1874’ Brut NV

Six years prior, Champagne Pommery’s cellar master Clément Pierlot was entrusted by Nathalie Vranken with the significant duty to craft a special champagne to celebrate Madame Pommery’s illustrious accomplishments. He concocted a blend predominantly sourcing great vintages from 2018, 2015, and 2012, supplemented with 18% reserve wines from the ancient Pommery vaults for added intricacy. The blend primarily involves Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from stellar vineyards including those of Premier or Grand Cru status, and rare plots such as the Les Clos Pompadour on Pommery’s estate. This vineyard is among the esteemed enclosed vineyards in the Champagne region, renowned globally. Clément believes that Apanage 1874 aligns with the maison’s historic practices, merging the “delicacy and precision of a modern creation with the depth and complexity of the Pommery legacy.”

Madame Pommery

Madame Pommery was a celebrated supporter of the arts, transforming the Pommery cellars into a stunning art gallery through her patronage. Continuing this legacy, current proprietor Nathalie Vranken mirrors this profound art enthusiasm, annually hosting the EXPERIENCE POMMERY exhibit for two decades, featuring over 300 international artists within the Gallo-Roman cellars of the estate. Acknowledging its cultural and historical significance, the Pommery estate has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015.

Pommery Victorian-style estate

Art has always been a driving force in Nathalie’s life and everything about Pommery, the innovation to excel with making sparkling Champagne wine, the gorgeous Pommery Victorian-style estate with Gallo-Roman cellars and the dedication to art for over a century, represents everything she loves about her favorite artists: innovation, excellence, commitment, beauty and soul. Yet recently, other famous Champagne houses have also taken on art projects and Nathalie thought that perhaps it was time to stop her art exhibition at Pommery as it seemed the combination of art and Champagne was everywhere now. For a brief moment, she questioned herself, saying, “Is this it? Am I done?” then, the minute she said it, that passion reignited within her and she fiercely stated, “No, I want to do it forever.”

And so, she called her latest exhibition “Forever,” bringing in many of the past creative works of art that have thrilled guests over the years. At the center of the exhibition is a gigantic sculpture in the shape of a pink heart that represents a heart that beats forever. The heart started with Madame Pommery and today it continues with Nathalie, 150 years of devotion that would transport Champagne lovers to a world of radiance and magic.

Champagne Pommery ‘Apanage 1874’ Brut NV

Champagne Pommery ‘Apanage 1874’ Brut NV features primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, sourced from premium Grand Cru and Premier Cru locations, including Pommery’s exclusive Les Clos Pompadour, with a minor addition of Pinot Meunier. This exceptional Champagne is crafted using top vintages from the last 15 years, predominantly from 2018, 2015, and 2012, complemented by 18% older reserve wines. This combination provides an intricate complexity, celebrating a significant milestone. It exhibits a captivating aroma of freshly baked brioche, complemented by hazelnut and white flowers, with a palate of creamy fine bubbles, vivid lemon curd, and peach crumble, all balanced by sharp acidity and a lingering mineral-laden finish.

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This narrative was photographed on June 23, 2024 at Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, located in Saint-Julien-Beychevelle, approximately 50 kilometers from Bordeaux, southwestern France. The chateau and winery is set to celebrate its 300th anniversary in October 2024.

Winemaking in the Bordeaux region has a rich history dating back 2000 years to the Roman era when the first vineyards were established. It gained further prominence during the Middle Ages following the royal marriage between Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine, which helped introduce Bordeaux’s wines from the French coast to Britain and beyond.

The Bordeaux region has been a major hub of winemaking for centuries. A significant landmark, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, is celebrating its 300th anniversary with events that offer a unique glimpse into the intricate world of French winemaking.

On an online wine seller’s site, a bottle of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 2021 Saint-Julien 2e cru classe is listed for $250. In contrast, a bottle from the 2020 vintage is priced at $1584. The description mentions that the wine, made from 98% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Merlot, features a “Pure and concentrated” nose, blending crème de cassis with floral (fresh violet) and fruity (blackberry, blueberry) aromas. Upon aeration, it evolves to reveal exotic spices, cedar, cigar box, and smoked graphite notes.

The 300^th anniversary celebration will be observed during the annual Harvest Festival scheduled for October 19^th at the historic château. The festival honors a winery and château with a rich history, enduring through the French Revolution, the era of Napoleon, both World Wars, and the notable Judgement of Paris in 1976 where American wines were deemed on par with French vintages.

Consider how seldom Americans celebrate the 300^th anniversary of anything. The United States marked the 200th year of the Declaration of Independence in 1976, but few will witness its 300^th anniversary in another 52 years.

HOUSTON, TEXAS – JUNE 11, 1982 Jean-Eugène Borie, previous owner of the winery Bordeaux’s Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, was known for a classic vintage. (Information sourced from David Breslauer/Houston Chronicle via Getty Images)

The Ducru-Beaucaillou Harvest Festival will be overseen by co-owner Bruno Borie, who is passionate about cooking, hosting, and wine. The festival will feature:

A culinary workshop where participants can learn the intricacies of preparing duck stew with a wine sauce under the guidance of Chef Anthony Roy from Ducru-Beaucaillou.

An exclusive session to sample the varied wines from the Maison’s collection, presented by Ducru-Beaucaillou’s Master of Wine, Tracey Dobbin.

A “Concurs d’élevage bogin” event allowing attendees to admire some of France’s most exquisite animals as they gracefully march to violin accompaniment on the château grounds.

Experience the traditional craft of barrel making with a live demonstration by Master Coopers, detailing the steps to create the perfect oak barrel vital for aging wine.

In addition, guests will be able to enjoy a communal lunch at the Ducru-Beaucaillou harvest table.

Guests can also participate in masterclasses and wine discovery workshops, and enjoy the refined tastings. Outdoor games will be organized to bring conviviality to the event. Guided tours of the cellar will show the secrets of making great wines, and there is a ‘beef competition.’

Tickets to the festival are 60 euros but guests have the option to take a master class. If they opt to do so, tickets are 85 euros. The Chateau is a private residence so guests will be finding their own lodging.

A picture taken on August 23, 2019 shows the Cordouan lighthouse off the coast of Le Verdon-sur-Mer, southwestern France. – The Cordouan lighthouse is France’s oldest lighthouse still active. It has been in service since 1611 and is located seven kilometers offshore at the mouth of the Gironde estuary.

Bordeaux is renowned for its vineyards, picturesque countryside, local markets, and exquisite dining options. It is also famous for river cruises historically used by winemakers to transport barrels on flat-bottom boats. The region is home to the oldest operational French lighthouse, Le Phare de Cordouan, established in 1611, which is also celebrated as “the Versailles of the Sea” due to its magnificent architecture.

The area is increasingly well-known for surfing along the Atlantic coast. There are around 50 surfing schools offering activities like stand-up paddleboarding or surfboard yoga.

Bordeaux is 580 km from Paris, accessible easily by train. The fastest trains between Paris and Bordeaux take about 2 hours and 3 minutes, with tickets costing around $52 if booked a week in advance. By car, the Spanish border lies just 120 miles south.

The renowned Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, a Grand Cru classé within the Saint-Julien appellation, stands out in the Médoc region. The château’s website extols “In praise of voluptuousness”. Numerous other vineyards in the Médoc offer château visits and wine tastings. Bordeaux is particularly captivating in autumn, and its harvest festival provides a deep dive into both the local wine culture and broader regional traditions.

As noted by the Millesima website, “In the past 300 years, six families have worked ceaselessly to elevate this estate to the international reputation it enjoys today. A property of the Borie family since 1941, Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou takes its name from its terroir of ‘beautiful pebbles’ made up of Gunzian gravel.”

A worker carries a wicker basket full of grapes during the harvest at the Corton-Charlemagne vineyard, in Pernand-Vergelesses, Bourgogne region south-eastern France on September 5, 2018.

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Size as needed (160 dpi, 25p x 33p), Philip Brooker color illustration of people looking at wine list as waiter with bottles stands in background. (The Miami Herald/Tribune News Service via Getty Images)

The majority of wine lists I encounter are quite inadequate. Often, large restaurant chains and hotels feature core lists that require branches to carry certain bottles everywhere. This restricts a wine director’s ability to introduce new selections that might better complement the menu or locale.

In my recent move to Miami, I was intrigued by how sommelier Jorge Mendoza crafts a truly international wine list at Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne Miami. Highlights from my latest visit include Pierre Péters Grand Cru Champagne and El Sueño de la Alondra 2021 from Ribera del Duero. I was particularly impressed with the extensive variety in the hotel’s selection in a city often limited to more typical offerings.

All responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.

Liza B. Zimmerman (L.B.Z.): How do you approach a new wine list for a new restaurant menu?

Jorge Mendoza is the sommelier at the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne.

Jorge Mendoza (J.M.): When approaching a wine list for a new restaurant, I start with an open mind and a deep understanding of the chef’s cuisine and signature flavors. It’s essential to stay in tune with both local preferences and global trends. Every community has its flavor profile, and knowing what excites the local palate allows me to craft a wine list that’s not only relevant and dynamic, but also makes good business sense.

L.B.Z.: Are there set, core wines, that you always add to a restaurant list such as Champagne or Burgundy?

J.M.: Absolutely—Champagne is a must. As the saying goes, “When in doubt, Champagne.” Burgundy is another favorite, especially for those who appreciate its depth and complexity. I also have a soft spot for Riesling as well, which pairs beautifully with many dishes here in Miami. Spanish wines, with their great variety and value, often make the cut, as do Italian white wines, which offer a delightful range of flavor profiles.

Arial view of Key Biscayne Bay overlooking Miami Downtown

L.B.Z.: Do you have to carry some of the wines that the other Ritz properties carry?

J.M.: Yes, there are certain wines that you will find across all our properties. These selections reflect the hotel’s commitment to offering a consistent wine experience.

L.B.Z.: Is there a set number of wines by the glass that you like to offer in a restaurant?

J.M.: We typically offer six reds, six whites, four sparkling wines, and one or two rosés by the glass. Occasionally, we introduce a “Sommelier Selection” that features a lesser-known wine to keep the selection fresh and exciting, in line with current market trends.

The dining room at Lightkeepers.

L.B.Z.: How often do the wine by-the-glass (btg) and by-the-bottle (btb) offerings change?

The selections of btg often change with the seasons or each year, and btb options might shift as frequently as every week. At times, my inventory includes only a limited number of a specific wine, and once those are sold, I need to update our offerings—sometimes this happens daily!

L.B.Z.: When it comes to crafting the wine list, how do you balance considerations like food pairings, pricing, or customer interests? Additionally, do you prioritize the preferences of locals over tourists, or how do you cater to both groups?

J.M.: Food pairings play an essential role in the development of a wine list, yet the foremost concern is always the quality of the wine. While prices are factored into the decision-making process, the primary focus is on delivering outstanding value with the wines. We strive to serve a diverse clientele, be they local patrons or out-of-town visitors.

L.B.Z.: How do wine preferences of different types of guests differ?

Preferences do vary based on background, but ultimately, everyone is looking for a wine with character that enhances their dining experience.

L.B.Z.: How did your wine list change when you switched from an Italian restaurant concept to Lightkeepers? This was a change that happened in 2017.

Oysters in Key Biscayne.

J.M.: The shift was significant—Italian wines went from dominating 60 percent of the list to making up just around 10 percent. We also streamlined the selection, cutting the number of offerings in half.

L.B.Z.: How do you source allocated wines?

J.M.: Building and maintaining relationships is key. I make a point of attending fairs, visiting vineyards, and participating in tastings whenever possible. Meeting winemakers and vignerons personally help establish the connections necessary to source these exclusive wines.

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