Wine 988

PTL’s Katie O’Malley travels to the mountains for an early look at the annual Seven Springs Wine Festival.

Many people probably picture Provence when they think of rose wine, but there are so many other countries that produce this perfect summer wine.

And one of them can be found right next door to France in another idyllic wine-producing country – Italy.

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A close-up photo of pinot noir grapes.

Pinot noir, celebrated for its adaptability and smooth taste, remarkably mirrors the characteristics of its growth environment, endearing it to both winemakers and wine enthusiasts.

With origins dating back over a millennium, pinot noir is famously rooted in France’s Burgundy region. Cultivated since the times of the Romans, it is one of the most esteemed varieties of the region. The grape’s thin skin and disease vulnerability make it a challenging cultivar, often referred to as the “heartbreak grape.” Yet, under ideal conditions, it yields wines with incredible complexity and richness.

There has been a resurgence of interest in pinot noir recently, prompted by an increased recognition of its sophistication and compatibility with various cuisines. Winemakers across the globe are exploring clones and methods to enhance its natural characteristics. Furthermore, there is a growing trend toward sustainable and organic farming practices aimed at achieving more authentic representations of pinot noir.

While Burgundy remains the benchmark for pinot noir, this grape has found success in various corners of the globe.

Pinot noir makes up a substantial part of the U.S. wine market. In 2023, it was the third-most planted grape variety by acreage in California. And just to the north in Oregon, more than half of all the state’s planted grapes in 2022 were pinot noir, accounting for 60% of vines in the state.

New Zealand’s Central Otago and Marlborough regions are also gaining recognition for their vibrant and expressive interpretations of this grape.

As climate change poses challenges for grape growing, the future of pinot noir may see further shifts in where and how it is cultivated.

What makes pinot noir so special? It’s the grape’s remarkable ability to express the nuances of its terroir. The best pinot noirs are known for their complex aromas, often featuring red and black fruits, floral notes and a hint of earthiness or minerality. On the palate, they are typically light to medium-bodied, with bright acidity and silky tannins. This makes pinot noir a versatile pairing for a wide range of foods, from roasted poultry and salmon to mushroom dishes and soft cheeses.

And being a lighter red, pinot noir is a sublime choice for red wine drinkers looking for a bottle that isn’t too overpowering during these hot and heavy summer months. Here are five bottles below that exemplify a solid pinot noir.

At approximately 10% the size of Bordeaux, Burgundy is a small yet significant region renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. It is also the home of Maison Louis Latour, a family-run wine producer with over 200 years of history. Maison Louis Latour excels in crafting Burgundy wines and holds the largest collection of Grand Cru vineyards in the region, offering a wide range of price points suitable for newcomers to French wine. Among their notable wines is the 2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, featuring a dark ruby hue, a nose of red fruit and aromas of blackcurrant. This wine pairs well with grilled meat and aged cheeses.

This one is an ideal choice for summer grilling, thanks to its versatile and complex flavor profile that features bright red fruits and a smooth texture. These elements pair well with various BBQ dishes, while its spicy and smoky notes complement grilled foods perfectly. Touted as a benchmark for Oregon pinot noirs, the Ponzi Vineyards 2022 Laurelwood pinot noir is crafted from sustainably farmed vineyards, adding to its appeal. The Ponzi family has been producing pinot noir for over 50 years, cultivating 140 acres of certified sustainable vineyards on Laurelwood soils in the Willamette Valley. The Laurelwood District AVA, pioneered by sisters Maria and Luisa Ponzi, features ancient fractured basalts layered with fine loess, imparting unique characteristics to their wines, making this pinot noir a sophisticated yet approachable option for social celebrations.

Reed and Megan Skupny’s Rockhound Wine, a new venture from the second generation of the family-run Napa Valley winery Lang & Reed, launched a few years ago with a mission to produce innovative wines that defy traditional boundaries in the wine industry. Their 2021 pinot noir, sourced from the Radian Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills in Southern California, was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels. This full-bodied wine showcases hints of balsam and strawberries, with flavors of bramble berry pie, dark chocolate and coffee nibs on the finish. The wine, with an alcohol content of 15.3%, is ideally served slightly chilled in warmer weather with a Niçoise salad or during winter with braised lamb shanks and parmesan polenta.

Founded in 1962 by viticulturist Dr. Konstantin Frank, this Finger Lakes winery revolutionized New York state and American viticulture at large by introducing wine grape plants to the Eastern United States. Now led by fourth-generation Meaghan Frank and her father, Frederick Frank, the winery continues to innovate with a diverse portfolio, including traditional method sparkling wines, ancient Georgian varieties and renowned rieslings and pinot noirs that highlight the Finger Lakes terroir. The winery’s original pinot noir vines, planted in 1958, produce lovely wines with notes of cranberries, cherries and subtle oak notes. This light-bodied 2021 pinot noir pairs well with foods like mushrooms, grilled chicken or tuna, pork tenderloin and seared salmon.

Yering Station was the first vineyard with vines planted in 1838 in the state of Victoria in southeastern Australia. Situated in the Yarra Valley, the estate encompasses five vineyard sites across the Yarra Glen and Coldstream sub-regions, benefiting from elevations of 150 to 1,500 feet. Acquired by the Rathbone family in 1996, Yering Station has achieved international acclaim for its viticultural innovation and sustainability practices. Renowned for producing top cool-climate pinot noir (as well as chardonnay and shiraz), the winery’s 2021 pinot noir showcases an elegant tannin structure, bright acidity, and a berry fruit profile, enhanced by 10 months of barrel fermentation in new and used French oak, which imparts warmth and spice notes.

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Low Alcohol and No-Alcohol wines are an increasing challenge to the wine industry

The wine industry is encountering challenging winds. We recently spoke with notable British wine critic Robert Joseph to gain new insights.

Robert Joseph, a highly regarded British wine critic, journalist, and writer, started his career in the 1980s with wine journalism, co-creating Wine International magazine and initiating the International Wine Challenge, one of the most prestigious wine contests globally.

Joseph has written multiple books about wine, including The Complete Encyclopedia of Wine and Robert Joseph’s Ultimate Wine Companion. He routinely writes columns for various wine magazines and has been featured on television multiple times.

In addition to critiquing, Joseph has a deep-seated passion for viticulture. He helped establish the globally recognized wine label Le Grand Noir and often provides consulting services.

JM: You’ve asserted that the wine industry places too much emphasis on consumer education, suggesting that one doesn’t need to be a leather expert to purchase shoes but simply must find shoes they appreciate. How do you believe the industry should aid consumers in discovering wines they enjoy instead of focusing on education?

RJ: The wine sector can draw lessons from the spirits industry, which seldom concentrates on educating consumers about the production differences between spirits like gin, vodka, and rum; similarly, Champagne producers focus on crafting appealing products. Take Aperol Spritz enthusiasts for example; few know about its origins or production process, but they delight in the drink’s taste and appearance. Some wine brands like Whispering Angel and Barefoot have successfully adopted this consumer-centric approach, catering to varied price segments.

Barefoot Wines Range of Sweet and Fruity Wines

JM: It’s estimated that 85% or more of the wine industry’s sales are at price points below $20. Does the wine media adequately cover lower-priced wines, or is there too much emphasis on the expensive, plus-$20 wines that most consumers do not buy?

RJ: The wine media – which, as a critic, I was once part of – quite reasonably focuses on what it sees as the more ‘interesting’ wines, just as automotive writers don’t spend quite as much time on the latest cheap Nissan as on the exciting new BMW.

But my favorite critic in any domain—the movie critic Roger Ebert—wasn’t like that. He was as ready to cover new teen flicks as the latest Scorsese. So, yes, we do need more writers looking at entry-level wines, but with an eye to whether they are ‘fit-for-purpose’ rather than whether they match up to a different set of quality criteria. Their failure to do this has opened the door to Vivino and influencers who are happy to do the job for them.

JM: Wine competitions are held globally, with awards from prestigious events significantly boosting new brands. The judges in these events are typically professionals with extensive credentials in the wine industry, credentials obtained after intensive studies and tests. However, one might question whether these judges align well with the tastes and values of regular wine consumers when it comes to everyday purchases.

RJ: As a founder of the IWC and a board member at Mundus Vini in Germany, I speak cautiously. The judges in these competitions focus on determining the absolute quality of the wines, which is a crucial aspect similar to evaluating performances in the Olympics or dog shows.

But it’s important to remember that the typical consumer does not purchase wine ‘blind’ as done in these competitions. Consumers see the label, know the region, grape, brand, and price, which all influence their purchasing decisions. Consequently, a medal from a competition or a critic’s rating is just one factor among many that a consumer may consider.

JM: In North America, wine sales have been relatively stagnant over the past five years. Sales of red wine have slightly dipped, while sales of white wine have seen a small rise. Rosé wines, starting from a small base, have seen a sharp increase in volume, though this growth rate has notably slowed. These trends raise the question of whether there are shifting demand patterns for wine or if this signals a persistent flat to downward trend in the market.

RJ: The shift to pink and white and sparkling is interesting because it reveals the way wine has become a, quite possibly, simple beverage rather than a complicated accompaniment to food. People know they like, or don’t like – Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc and order accordingly.

With rosé, it’s even simpler: dry or sweet. Who knows the grape behind the pink wine in their glass? Who cares? It is interesting to consider the position of Red Blends in the US market. These fill a similar role: a predictable drink.

Friends are having a celebratory toast of rosé wine together during a party.

Of course, plenty of people love complexity and are eager to try Georgian Qvevri wines and French Pet Nat. But these people are the exceptions to the wine-drinking rule—despite the space that’s quite reasonably dedicated to them by the wine media.

JM: How has the introduction of canned wines, including flavored wines, changed the dynamics of the wine marketplace? Is it resulting in a net expansion of the market or driving a migration to lower price points?

RJ: These products aren’t necessarily cheap. But they fit my narrative of helping reposition wine as a beverage rather than a ‘noble’, complex product that must be taken seriously. I see no reason to imagine they will disappear despite the wishes of many wine conservatives.

JM: Younger consumers seem less interested in wine consumption. Roughly a third of Gen Z consumers say they prefer no alcohol or low-alcohol beverages. How should the wine industry respond to this generational preference?

RJ: There are two answers. 1) embrace this and produce lo-no wine-based drinks to satisfy their demand. I am unashamedly doing with a le Grand Noir 0.0% extension to our range. 2) promote the unique, historic qualities of wine that make it such a great convivial product and such a delicious partner to food.

1) and 2) are not mutually exclusive. Evidence suggests that individuals who enjoy non-alcoholic beverages often drink alcoholic ones too, sometimes within the same event. It would be great to see someone start their evening with a glass of le Grand Noir 0.0% Blanc and then move on to enjoy a 12.5% le Grand Noir Pinot Noir with dinner, or perhaps as a subsequent drink.

JM: Baby boomers had a preference for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Are the Millennials and subsequent generations leaning towards different varieties like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc? Has the wine industry adapted to these shifting preferences?

RJ: The situation isn’t black and white. Indeed, the younger contingent is gravitating towards the lighter and fresher taste profiles of Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Prosecco, and Pinot Noir. However, it’s premature to dismiss the relevance of Cabernet and Chardonnay just yet.

As mentioned previously about Red Blends, I believe alternatives will become increasingly popular. I am currently developing a wine in Georgia named K’AVSHIRI, which incorporates a mix of Georgian grape varieties, winemaking techniques, regions, and vintages. This wine challenges conventional norms, setting a precedent that I anticipate others will emulate.

JM: Are we producing an excess of wine, and is it priced too high?

RJ: Given the overall consumption levels worldwide, it’s clear that the wine production has been excessive for some time. It’s only recently that this has become widely acknowledged. Moreover, a significant amount of wine is sold too cheaply, yielding minimal profits, a situation made even more precarious by climate uncertainties.

There’s a growing trend where the younger generation in European wine-making families are reluctant to follow in their parents’ footsteps. Consequently, I anticipate a decrease in production by 15-20%, primarily affecting the lower end of the market. Large-scale producers like Gallo and European cooperatives, which are structured to produce inexpensive wine, will dominate this segment.

At the high end of the market, esteemed wines, akin to top-tier restaurants and luxury fashion brands, will likely endure. Those positioned in the middle, however, may face significant challenges.

Are they priced low enough to draw in consumers unwilling or unable to spend beyond $12-15? Do they have sufficient marketing to appeal to those with larger budgets? This circles back to the beginning. Spirits and beer brands possess margins that allow for marketing, justifying the high prices that sustain these margins. Many wine businesses lack adequate funds.

JM: Thank you.

Enjoying the Taste of Wine with Cigars

Many believe that whiskey is the best companion for a cigar, but in Sonoma County, a circle of enthusiasts argues that wine is the superior choice. During a recent ‘Summer Smoke’ dinner event at Rodney Strong Winery, I had the chance to engage with several proponents of this pairing and delve into their reasoning.

The gathering saw a partnership between Rodney Strong and Squire Cigars, a business in Santa Rosa, California, currently marking its 50^th anniversary. General Manager Kim Squire, whose parents, Barney and Linda Squire, founded the company, shared insightful perspectives on this debate.

“Traditionally, people associate whiskey or rum with cigars as the ideal pairing. However, considering the variety of cigar strengths, pairing them with something milder like wine can actually enhance the experience, making it a better complement to the cigars than other beverages,” she noted.

To demonstrate her perspective, Kim presented four distinct types of cigars each paired with a selection from Rodney Strong wines. The attendees had the option to try these pairings with a small sample of cigar and a taste of wine, or to indulge in a full-sized cigar.

Rodney Strong is particularly renowned for its award-winning cabernet sauvignon wines from Alexander Valley, most notably the Bordeaux blend known as Symmetry which retails for $70 per bottle. While highlighting cigar pairings for these specific wines, Kim also explored possible pairings with other Rodney Strong varietals such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, and port, pairing two of these as well.

Portfolio of Wines Crafted by Rodney Strong Winery

Below are the four Rodney Strong wines that Kim Squire paired with cigars:

#1 – Rodney Strong Symmetry paired with Davidoff Winston Churchill Cigar – The deep and complex flavors of berries, earth, and coffee in this cabernet blend complement the robust tastes of pepper, cream, dark chocolate, and coffee found in the Churchill cigar.

#2 – Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon with Aladino Corojo Cigar – Bursting with notes of black currants, plum, boysenberry, cedar, and a touch of mocha, this refined cabernet pairs beautifully with the Aladino Corojo cigar. This cigar offers a bouquet of sweet spice, cocoa, cedar, and floral nuances.

#3 – Rodney Strong Pinot Noir with Arturo Fuente Hemingway Cigar – The velvety black cherry and spice flavors of the pinot noir are perfectly matched with the lighter, creamy sweetness and subtle pepper notes of the Hemingway cigar.

#4 – Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc with Avo XO Cigar – For those who favor white wine, the crisp and aromatic grapefruit, floral, and pear notes of the sauvignon blanc pair exquisitely with the smooth, mild flavors of the XO cigar, which highlights hints of salty cashews, cream, cedar, sweet molasses, leather, and spice.

Some of the Cigars Served at the Wine & Cigar Pairing Event at Rodney Strong

The ‘Summer Smoke’ event at Rodney Strong winery featured a family-style dinner and was conducted outdoors on a large grassy area with a picturesque view of the vineyards in Sonoma County. Although not everyone at the fully booked event engaged in both the cigar and wine tastings (with a select few opting solely for wine-tasting), the cigar enthusiasts found much to enjoy.

“A cigar is a wonderful addition to the wine-pairing journey. A youthful Cabernet, rich with bold fruits and sturdy tannins, pairs exceptionally well with an earthy Robusto,” explained Palmer Emmitt, Owner and Winemaker at Emmitt-Scorsone Wines, as he explored various cigar and wine combinations.

Christopher O’Gorman, Senior Director of Communications at Rodney Strong Wine Estates, also enjoys the dynamic between wine and cigars. “Exceptional wine paired with fine cigars is like a match made in heaven. Both possess intricate flavors that echo their origins and cover a broad range of aromas and textures, from delicate and smooth to rich and robust,” he noted.

Guests Relaxing on the Lawn at the Wine & Cigar Pairing Event at Rodney Strong Winery

But Rodney Strong winemaker, Olivia Wright, decided not to participate in the pairing, though she did an excellent job describing the wines to guests.

“I don’t smoke cigars, but our proprietor, Tom Klein, greatly enjoys them – especially with wine, and so do many of our winery customers,” stated Olivia Wright, Winemaker with Rodney Strong Wine Estates.

“Also, I know that we all have different palates, and so if people enjoy pairing wine with cigars, I think that is wonderful. The world of wine will be a better place if we get rid of rules about what people should and shouldn’t like about wine pairing,” she added.

Interestingly both Squire Cigars and Rodney Strong winery are family owned businesses, with Squire Cigars first opening their doors in 1974 and Rodney Strong established in 1959. Recently, Squire Cigars introduced wine lockers to their cigar shop, enabling customers to receive advice on selecting the best wine from their lockers to pair with cigars.

“Wine and cigars just go together,” mentioned Kim Squires, “so why not offer wine lockers at our cigar shop? Truly, people are missing out if they don’t pair their wine with cigars.”

Actor George Hamilton epitomizes the elegance of pairing different types of wine and cigars.

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Ever wondered what’s inside a bottle of wine? Naturally, grapes come to mind. But isn’t it just wine, not some fruit-infused vodka mix?

Consider this—there are over 60 possible additives approved by the government that could be in wine. These include elements like gum arabic from acacia tree sap, albumen from egg whites, isinglass made from fish bladders, and even polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, which is a type of industrial glue. The term Special blend just gained a whole new dimension.

One might think it’s logical to list these substances clearly on the wine bottle’s label. But when I first advocated for ingredient and nutrition labels on wine bottles back in the early 2000s, the response from industry leaders was less than encouraging. The head of a major wine organization dismissed the idea as confusing for consumers—who, according to him, weren’t interested in that information anyway. A prominent U.S. wine journalist commented that most wine drinkers wouldn’t comprehend the details anyway.

Given such resistance, it’s no surprise that, almost two decades later, despite continuous efforts by federal regulators, wine still lacks mandatory nutrition and ingredient labelling. It’s one of the few major consumer products without such requirements. For context, during this period, we have witnessed significant historical and technological advancements—from the election of the first African American president to the mainstream adoption of doorbells with cameras and the Chicago Cubs winning their first World Series in over a century. Yet, information on wine bottles remains limited.

“For over two decades, I doubted whether my advocacy for ingredient labeling on wines would have any tangible impact,” shared Randall Grahm, a revolutionary winemaker from California who has persistently championed this cause. “The lack of interest within the wine sector made our efforts seem even more daunting.”

This year, however, marks a pivotal change. With renewed attempts from regulators to mandate these labels, the surprising twist is the industry’s lack of resistance. This shift is attributed partially to declining wine sales and interest, particularly outside the baby boomer demographic, in conjunction with a surplus of unsold and unharvested grapes. It appears the industry is now willing to experiment with transparency in labeling, hoping it might alleviate some of their financial difficulties.

I can only echo the sentiment that disclosing ingredients in wine is a logical step. It is regrettable, however, that it has taken two decades to reach this conclusion.

The push for ingredient labeling began roughly in 2003 when the Tax and Trade Bureau, part of the U.S. Treasury Department responsible for alcohol regulation, introduced this initiative. Given alcohol oversight falls under their jurisdiction rather than the Food and Drug Administration, they aimed to replicate the clarity seen in grocery staples like ketchup and cream-of-mushroom soup through a comprehensive ingredients listing on alcoholic beverages including wine, beer, and spirits. Michael Kaiser, involved in government affairs with the Wine America trade group, recalls the origin of this regulatory proposal, though details of the exact time seem faded by years.

Was this request unreasonable? According to Jamie Mok, a spokesperson for the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, it wasn’t. “From a dietitian’s perspective,” she notes, “the goal is to educate and increase awareness about what is in our food so that individuals can make informed decisions about their health.” This may include essential details like sugar content for diabetics or hidden allergens such as eggs and nuts.

However, the backlash in 2003, which generated 34 pages of comments, might make one think the TTB was attempting to reinstate Prohibition. One notable backlash came from the Wine Institute, which argued that nutritional labels were ineffective, pointing out that obesity rates in America had soared despite their introduction in the 1990s. Such a drastic viewpoint essentially suggested discarding the proposal altogether, urging the government to consider “reasonable alternatives.”

The concept of transparency seemed to lose its value here. Grahm believed that the term reasonable was more about excusing winemaking compromises than enhancing product quality. “If winemakers had to disclose all substances used in wine production, the approach to winemaking would likely become more cautious and deliberate,” he argues. “This would not only enhance the general quality of wine but also lead to the production of more unique wines.”

Opponents also argued against ingredient listing, citing problems such as ‘label clutter.’ Winery back labels were already crowded with UPC codes and promotional text; where would nutritional facts and ingredients fit? Indeed, the industry prioritized enticing descriptions like “flavors of gooseberry and lychee nuts” over conveying nutritional data.

My preferred strategy for discussion? Wine, consumed purely for enjoyment, doesn’t necessitate informational labels! This idea stems from a viewpoint expressed in a 2014 article by two lawyers in a trade magazine that no longer exists. This argument, known as the “Wine Is Art” claim, suggests that wine should be treated differently from other consumer products, warranting an exemption from typical labeling requirements. As reported in a 2019 study, it was found that consumers felt uncertain and bewildered about ingredient disclosures on wine, which in turn, diminished its perceived naturalness.

The wine industry did have some reasonable worries, however. It was unclear how the TTB would manage to regulate labeling on imported wines, which make up about 40 percent of the wine sold in the U.S. Crucially, the requirement for annual label updates due to vintage changes could be economically draining for the approximately 11,000 small wineries across the country. While the biggest 100 wineries, responsible for 90 percent of U.S. wine production, wouldn’t be significantly impacted financially, a tiny winery producing merely 500 to 1,000 cases annually could incur considerable costs if required to update labels yearly.

Not to be overlooked were the objections from the beer and spirits sectors, particularly from craft beer producers. These producers were against listing calorie content because hop-rich craft beers can contain up to 50 percent more calories than standard beers. They also contested the TTB’s method for determining serving sizes based on alcohol content; the higher the alcohol percentage, the smaller the deemed serving size. Most beers hold about 5 percent alcohol, yet craft brews can have much higher alcohol levels. Craft beer makers resisted the idea that a single bottle of their 9 percent alcohol beer might count as two servings, contrasting with mainstream beers of similar size being considered a single serving.

Hence, the proposal remained just a proposal until 2016.

When the TTB introduced a rule permitting optional labeling, a select few international beer and spirits manufacturers adopted it, but the bulk of wine producers chose to disregard it. This decision led to two outcomes: firstly, Kaiser of the Wine America group declared the matter resolved, with those desiring labels free to use them, while others could maintain the status quo. Secondly, individuals like Grahm believed this signaled the conclusion of mandatory labeling initiatives.

However, subsequent developments over the next few years prompted the TTB to reconsider its stance, with the two leading wine industry organizations eventually offering their backing. In 2022, three consumer advocacy organizations, including the Center for Science in the Public Interest, initiated a lawsuit against the Treasury Department to enforce the implementation of alcohol labeling proposed in the early 2000s. While legal experts were divided on the lawsuit’s potential success, the action signaled to groups like Wine America the substantial consumer interest in labeling. Kaiser noted, “All market research indicates that consumers desire this. We just need to find a method that introduces labels without economically straining the industry.”

The European Union offers an example, having mandated ingredient and nutrition labeling by the end of 2023, a regulation that also applies to U.S. wines sold within its borders. To alleviate the financial burden on smaller wineries, the EU adopted a UPC code system that links to a winery’s website. This code remains the same across vintages, allowing wineries to update label information online, thus eliminating the need for new print runs.

But perhaps the most important event is the 2-year-old—and still-going-strong—wine slump and what appears to be little enthusiasm among younger cohorts for red, white, or anything else. Mok says those younger consumers prefer ingredient transparency, especially for things like added sugar and nonvegetarian ingredients. Not surprisingly, two urban myths have emerged in the past decade or so, directly related to the lack of labels: that wine is full of added sugar, when, in fact, most of the sugar disappears during fermentation; and that wine uses animal products for filtering, when almost all wine is filtered through a gravel-like product called bentonite.

So where are we today? How soon can you expect to see a proper label on your favorite bottle? The TTB has outlined a process to first add fact boxes and allergen warnings, followed by ingredient labels. It includes a period for public comment as well as what are called listening sessions, during which TTB staff can talk to producers about the proposal. The timeline is vague, says Kaiser—maybe by the end of 2025, maybe longer. And it could also change depending on the results of the presidential election in November; a GOP victory could further slow the process.

For those of us who have been waiting two decades for labels, this isn’t the best news. But a process is more than we’ve had, and as long as we keep the process moving, we can get the change we want—and that the wine business needs. Just think: In a few years, you might be able to gaze into your evening glass and fully appreciate what’s in there—lovingly harvested grapes, fish bladder derivatives, and so much more besides.

It’s already been two decades since “Sideways” pals Miles and Jack toured the Santa Inez Valley north of Santa Barbara and Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, declared, “I am not drinking any fucking merlot!”

But what did Miles and Jack, played by Thomas Haden Church, drink instead of merlot, which was deemed too mundane for their elevated tastes? Pinot noir, and lots of it! In Searchlight’s 2004 comedy, which is set to stream on Hulu this fall, the wine-obsessed duo sip and dine at the Hitching Post 2 restaurant in Buellton. Now, the Hitching Post is getting ready for the 20 year anniversary by hosting three Hitching Post + Sideways winemaker dinners and releasing a special edition pinot noir.

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Hitching Post 2 chef and winemaker Frank Ostini and winemaker Gray Hartley of Hitching Post Wines are hosting anniversary events along with Santa Barbara’s La Paloma Cafe, Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley, CIA at Copia and L.A.’s Jar restaurant.

Hitching Post’s Highliner Pinot Noir, which was featured in the movie, will get a special label for the 2021 vintage to commemorate the anniversary. The special bottles will be available at the restaurant, the Hitching Post tasting room and at select retailers. For the true “Sideways” aficionados, a three-bottle “As Seen in Sideways” set includes the 2001 Hitching Post Pinot Noir Bien Nacido, 2001 Hitching Post Pinot Noir Highliner and 2021 Hitching Post Pinot Noir Highliner for $650.

Details on the winemaker dinners and other events are as follows:

Sunday, Sept. 15
Hitching Post + Sideways Winemaker Dinner at the Hitching Post 2
Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley host a 20th Anniversary Sideways dinner with a signature menu from the Hitching Post 2 paired with special edition Pinot Noir vintages celebrating the film.
$150 per person
Reserve with OpenTable Experience

Tuesday, Sept. 24
Hitching Post + Sideways Winemaker Dinner at La Paloma Cafe
Executive Chef Jeremy Tummel hosts Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley for a 20th Anniversary Sideways dinner with a menu inspired by the Hitching Post 2 paired with special edition Pinot Noir vintages celebrating the film.
La Paloma Cafe
702 Anacapa St, Santa Barbara
$110
Reserve with RESY

Sunday, Sept. 29
Taste of the Santa Ynez Valley – “Sideways” 20th Anniversary Festival
One of the highlights of the four-day festival in the Santa Ynez Valley is the celebration of the 20th anniversary of the award-winning film “Sideways.” There will be bites from Hitching Post 2 and other Buellton restaurants, along with Sta. Rita Hills and Buellton wine, beer, and live music. Look for an appearance by Virginia Madsen.
Tickets include the “Sideways” screening at Solvang Festival Theater.
$150

Saturday, Oct. 12
Copia at Culinary Institute of America, Napa
Screening of “Sideways” followed by a Q&A panel with director Alexander Payne and actor Virginia Madsen. Frank Ostini is special guest.

Tuesday, Oct. 29
Hitching Post + “Sideways” Winemaker Dinner at Jar
Chef/Owner Suzanne Tracht hosts Hitching Post Wines’ Frank Ostini and Gray Hartley for a 20th Anniversary Sideways dinner with a menu inspired by the Hitching Post 2 paired with special edition Pinot Noir vintages celebrating the film.
Jar, 8225 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles
$200 inclusive of menu & wines plus tax & gratuity
Reserve with OpenTable Experience

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Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Albariño, 14.2%, $38, 4.5 stars. A fresh and vibrant Albariño featuring a blend of citrus and tropical flavors. Highlights include pineapple, orange zest, and mineral elements. Remarkable.

Chappellet, 2023 Signature, Napa Valley Chenin Blanc, 14.1%, $75, 4 stars. This Chenin Blanc presents layers of Meyer lemon, quince, and nectarine. It maintains a balanced profile with a crisp finish. Charming.

Cormorant, 2023 Fenaughty Vineyard, El Dorado County Vermentino, 12.4%, $28, 4 stars. This Vermentino offers delightful aromas of white peach, lime, and grapefruit. Ends with a crisp finish. Attractive.

Longboard Vineyards, 2023 Elieo Vineyard, Russian River Valley Albarino, 13.1%, $36, 4 stars. This Albariño is bursting with lively citrus, stone fruit, and mineral notes, supported by a crisp acidity, making it exceptionally well-made.

The esteemed Shozaburo Dogura, a pioneering entrepreneur and initially among Japan’s conservationists, would undoubtedly appreciate the dedication shown by his great granddaughter, Miki Cunat, through her role in developing a collection of wines at Napa’s Materra Cunat Family Vineyards honoring his legacy.

One highlight from this collection is the Albariño titled Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley, priced at $38. This Wine of the Week recipient, crafted by Director of Winemaking Chelsea Barrett, showcases a vibrant and refreshing profile with flavors of pineapple, orange zest, and mineral undertones.

The name Yamabuki originates from a bright yellow flower in the rose family that blossoms from April to May in Japan. In Hanakotoba, the Japanese language of flowers, Yamabuki symbolizes “elegance” and “luck with money,” aptly reflecting Dogura’s prosperous life.

Besides his environmental initiatives, Dogura contributed significantly to infrastructure development including road construction in Japan and railroad projects in Taiwan. He also supported several newspapers and played a role in founding significant educational institutions such as Nihon Joshi Daigaku, Japan’s inaugural women’s university, and Doshisha University.

Albariño, a white grape from Galicia in northwest Spain, is seldom found in California vineyards.

“Albariño is quite unique for our area, providing an exotic flavor for many patrons,” said Barrett. “It’s a wonderful wine that pairs splendidly with various dishes, including seafood, dishes with tomato bases, and notably, paella.”

In 2020, the Napa winery started cultivating Albariño vines, with the first batch of these vines being bottled in 2023.

“Cultivating young vines requires attention to develop strong roots and canopy systems,” Barrett noted. “We have excellent conditions on our land and 2023 has been a particularly favorable year for growth.”

Barrett, originally from Calistoga, completed her viticulture and enology studies at UC Davis in 2010. Following her graduation, she worked at Opus One in Oakville and then at Joel Gott Wines, in Napa and St. Helena. She later joined forces with Heidi Barrett, her mother, on various labels including Amuse Bouche, Au Sommet, and Aviatrix in Calistoga, before managing winemaking operations at Materra starting in 2019.

Materra, established by Brian and Miki Cunat in 2007, produces under 10,000 cases of wine annually. The vineyard’s production includes varieties such as Albariño, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah, and Syrah.

In June, a newly constructed 10,000-square-foot tasting and event facility was unveiled at the winery. The venue, designed with both indoor and outdoor tasting areas, boasts 25-foot high ceilings, dormer windows, and a covered patio.

The grand gallery room regularly updates its exhibits, showcasing a collection of the Cunat family’s valued possessions ranging from Japanese artifacts to classic automobiles. The facility also features a private event space and a catering kitchen.

The vision is to have a full-time chef, who will pair traditional Japanese dishes with the winery’s Japanese series of wines.

“We’re extremely excited to welcome guests for a sneak peek of our newly opened tasting room,” said Barrett, adding that the Yamabuki Albariño is one of the most intriguing in the lineup.

“It’s wonderful, because our property is very conducive to growing phenomenal Albariño,” she said.

You can reach wine writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or peg.melnik@pressdemocrat.com. On X (Twitter) @pegmelnik.

Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Albariño, 14.2%, $38, 4.5 stars. Delicately flavored with a blend of citrus and tropical fruits, this Albariño showcases hints of pineapple, orange zest, and mineral elements in a fresh and appealing style.

Chappellet, 2023 Signature, Napa Valley Chenin Blanc, 14.1%, $75, 4 stars. Featuring aromatic layers of Meyer lemon, quince, and nectarine, this Chenin Blanc offers a balanced and crisp finish, exuding charm with every sip.

Cormorant, 2023 Fenaughty Vineyard, El Dorado County Vermentino, 12.4%, $28, 4 stars. This Vermentino presents delightful aromas of white peach, lime, and grapefruit, culminating in a crisp finish that enhances its elegance.

Longboard Vineyards, 2023 Elieo Vineyard, Russian River Valley Albarino, 13.1%, $36, 4 stars. Exhibiting a vibrant mix of citrus, stone fruit, and mineral notes, this Albariño is crafted expertly with a zesty acidity, making it exceptionally refined.

Harvest season in Napa County’s wine country began at Peju Winery in Rutherford on Tuesday morning.

Allen Balik

In real estate, the mantra is “location, location, location,” while in the diamond industry, the quality is gauged by the “4 Cs”—color, clarity, cut, and carat. Are there similar standards when it comes to evaluating wine?

During a recent wine tasting I led, the conversation turned to the question, “What essential factors determine the quality of a particular wine?” We briefly discussed various factors such as terroir (the grape vine’s comprehensive environment), the winemaking process, and marketing strategies. However, we couldn’t pinpoint a precise set of standards.

During a recent group conversation, I was reminded of an insight I had years ago in a similar setting. It struck me that the essence of a wine could be evaluated based on the “3 Vs” – variety, vineyard, and vintage.

How well does the wine reflect its grape type? Does it embody its geographic origins? Does it capture the essence of its year of production? This simple yet profound realization has guided my approach to understanding and judging the true essence and quality of wine ever since.

In a lively debate, although opinions varied, there was unanimous agreement about the crucial role of the 3 Vs and their hierarchical importance. Primarily, a wine’s varietal character should be pronounced, supported subsequently by its vineyard roots and the specifics of its vintage.

Each grape variety bears a distinctiveness that has been recognized and perpetuated through generations in the traditional craft of winemaking. The inherent character of a variety forms the cornerstone of the 3 Vs, whether it appears alone (such as in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) or as a vital component of a masterfully blended wine (like those of Bordeaux and Southern Rhone).

Over recent decades, the adoption of an “international” style, heavily influenced by critics and the 100-point rating system, has led to the homogenization in the distinctiveness of various wines. Techniques in modern viticulture and winemaking have obscured the unique characteristics that differentiate one wine from another, making it challenging to distinguish between wines like Pinot Noir and Syrah or Cabernet and Merlot solely based on their varietal traits, which I consider crucial for assessing quality.

Terroir, which includes factors like soil type, drainage, exposure, temperature, and elevation, varies significantly across different vineyards and regions such as appellation or AVA. These elements impart a unique identity to wines originating from specific locales. Winegrowers who produce fine wines appreciate and accentuate the uniqueness of their respective vineyards in their wine production, highlighting the terroir’s role in shaping the wine’s character.

A wine such as Tempranillo from Spain’s Rioja should have noticeable differences when compared to one from California. Similarly, a refined high-altitude Malbec from Argentina should exhibit distinctions from a Malbec grown in the rustic terroirs of France’s Cahors region. Unfortunately, the prevalent international style often diminishes these nuances. Nonetheless, the inherent characteristics of a region remain essential in evaluating the quality and identity of wines.

Not all vintages are alike, with yearly variations often being the most pronounced among the factors affecting wine quality. Even within the same vineyard, under the same winemaker and using the same varietal, wines can vary dramatically from year to year. These differences have become more pronounced in recent years due to significant fluctuations in global weather patterns impacting temperature and rainfall.

Fortunately, even in less favorable vintages, some exceptional wines are produced. What might be a stand-out vintage in Napa might not showcase the same characteristics in Sonoma, the Central Coast, Europe, or the Southern Hemisphere. Vintage is an aspect we cannot control, and it often plays a decisive role in the quality of wine produced, encompassing the influence of variety and vineyard.

Understanding the vital importance of the three Vs – variety, vineyard, and vintage – has always been part of my evaluation of wine quality. Delving into these components has been both enlightening and rewarding, and it leads me to contemplate a potential fourth V – value, a topic I plan to explore later.

Stay updated with the stories you might have missed with the Napa Valley Wine Insider!

Explore one of the unique wine estates located in the city of Napa, and discover why vineyards are rare within the city’s limits.

Securing a winery use permit in Nape County is both costly and time-consuming.

With over fifty years of history in Napa, Monticello Vineyards, a family-operated winery, is now at a crossroads due to internal disputes about possibly selling the property.

On Friday morning, Napa Valley College staff and supporters initiated the groundbreaking ceremony for a new wine education facility, which is planned to be completed in two phases.

Vineyard proprietors on Atlas Peak have initiated a lawsuit claiming they are owed almost $120,000 for grapes that were not paid for.

William Cole Vineyards winery recently highlighted Napa County’s approach to code compliance issues.

In 2023, Napa County’s total agricultural value surpassed $1 billion.

The Napa County Planning Commission turned down the Vida Valiente winery proposal due to its location on a narrow road in a zone vulnerable to fires.

John Chaix obtained a county permit to establish a micro-winery in the Rutherford region.

This week, six Ukrainian wine producers are visiting Napa Valley to learn about regenerative viticulture and natural wine production techniques from some of the region’s top winemakers and agricultural experts.

Allen Balik, who lives in Napa, has over 40 years of experience as a wine collector, consultant, author, and enthusiast. He is also involved in fundraising. You can contact him via email at allenbalik@savorlifethroughwine.com.

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The harvest season in Napa County’s wine country started this Tuesday morning at Peju Winery in Rutherford.

This story is from an installment of The Oeno Files, our weekly insider newsletter to the world of fine wine. Sign up here.

Once upon a time, in the land of snobby sommeliers, a diner was expected to make a split-second decision about a wine’s acceptability the moment a taste of a wine was poured. The wine professional, bottle in hand and a look of superiority on his face (they were all men in this dark history), stood at the ready to challenge any assertion the diner may have attempted to make about the quality of the wine. He had already taken a sniff and a sip from the polished tastevin worn around his neck and had pronounced it fit to drink; the ceremony was all for show and said diner’s opinion was entirely beside the point. Fortunately, we’ve moved into a new era and world of sommeliers.

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The rules of sending a bottle back at restaurants have changed. While it’s probably still best to only do so when there’s something genuinely wrong with the wine—such as it has suffered from cork taint (TCA), been overpowered by Brettanomyces, undergone oxidation, or refermented in the bottle—we spoke with several sommeliers and beverage directors and were repeatedly told that they will take a bottle back simply if the customer doesn’t like it. “Even if a bottle is not flawed, I take it back as I want the guests to leave happy and want to come back because they will remember that they were treated well,” says Aviram Turgeman, beverage director at New York City’s Chef Driven Hospitality.

Unlike the sommeliers of old, today’s crop is interested in helping their guests have the best experience possible, which means exchanging a bottle even if it is perfect. “After resolving the issue and providing a new bottle, I will taste the returned wine behind the scenes,” says Genaro Gallo Escudero, wine director at Eight Tables restaurant in San Francisco.“Whether the guest’s complaint is valid or not, they should not have to drink something they believe is not up to standard.” In the best-case scenario, the problem will be pointed out as soon as the bottle is presented, but sometimes flaws are not immediately obvious. Even so, it’s never too late to call your wine professional back to the table and ask them to re-evaluate the bottle with you.

“In an ideal world, the guest should let the service professional know right away, when they first taste the wine, that it is flawed,” says master sommelier Des Echavarrie. “In practice, it is almost always 10 to 20 minutes later and after the wine has been poured.” He points out that once a significant portion of the wine has been poured it makes it difficult for the establishment to return a problematic bottle to the distributor for credit but adds that “regardless of whether it is economically prudent, a restaurant should make every reasonable effort to accommodate the guest.”

It helps if the sommelier takes a sip before pouring, but we don’t always see that put into practice. One exception is Alex Ring, Michelin Guide 2023 Chicago Sommelier Award winner and wine director at Chicago restaurants Sepia and Proxi. “I taste every bottle I open, so I’ll usually intercept a flawed bottle of wine before it gets into the guest’s glass,” he says. “I’m also familiar with the offerings on my list, so if I know a wine tends toward being funky, I make sure to have a quick conversation with the guest before I pull the cork.”

That’s a crucial point: It’s important to know what you’re ordering and what to expect. Wine professionals are in line on this point as well, all stating that it is their job to let the customer in on what to anticipate when the bottle is opened. Scott Stroemer, beverage director at Chicago’s Michelin-starred Galit, tries to do it with honesty and humor on his wine list. “We often use blurbs, for lack of a better term, on the menu that serve that purpose,” he says. “‘Chuggable Pet Nat of ancient Cypriot red varietal’ works as a gatekeeper of sorts, to invite the natural wine fans in while telling people this isn’t what you’re looking for if you want Champagne or Prosecco.” While Turgeman doesn’t add coded language on his wine list at Chef Driven’s recently opened restaurant Acadia, he always makes sure to point out the style of wine being ordered if it may fall on the funkier side of the spectrum. “It is our job to explain in a language or verbiage [people] would understand, such as a friendly heads up about farmyard aromas or a ‘good stink,’ or to explain that oxidation can be pleasant,” he says.

What happens if you return a bottle that’s not actually flawed? While it’s not something you should do on a regular basis, you can rest assured that the bottles go to good use. Echavarrie tells of a returned wine he describes as “an expensive bottle of Burgundy abbreviated by three initials,” which the customer thought was off, but he and the wine director found to be in perfect condition. “We poured the wine for other guests in a different part of the restaurant that would have never gotten to taste it otherwise,” he says. Grace Newport, beverage director at San Francisco’s Epic Steak, says sometimes she’ll set those opened bottles aside until the end of service where she can use them for some staff education. Receiving a different style of wine than expected can even have a silver lining for the customer who ordered it. Turgeman tells of a guest who ordered Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc and was surprised by the white wine, not red, that was opened at the table. “They were apologetic about it, but I insisted that they keep the glasses I poured just so they could see how great it was. I brought them the bottle of rouge, which they enjoyed, but now they are big fans of Châteauneuf Blanc.”

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