Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia

Oremus cellar

Within the shadows of the ancient vaults, one can spot the gleaming reserves of what one might call liquid gold. These vaults, spanning a vast network of corridors, were carved over 400 years ago. Despite the ebb of power from the once dominant kingdom, some legacies such as these vaults magnificently endure. In these caves, tightly held secrets in the form of Tokaji wine bottles emit a mystical glow, emblematic of the term “liquid gold”—a sweet wine unparalleled, named after the region where it originated.

Today, a noted connoisseur from the realm of European red wines ventured into this time-capsuled vineyard nestled in the Hungarian countryside, once part of the robust Austro-Hungarian Empire. As historical tides such as WWI, WWII, and the downfall of communism shook the nation, such events threatened the legacy of the cherished Tokaji wines—wines that commanded the admiration of royalty. Crafting these wines involves an intensive process that demands significant labor and expense, making them treasured yet economically challenging ventures.

Visit the wine traditions of Hungary here.

The story begins with an esteemed individual from a select group of family-operated, top-tier wine producers who received an invitation to acquire a historic vineyard renowned for preserving the rich legacy of Hungary’s prominence in winemaking.

Under the shimmering golden sunlight that draped over the white linen tablecloth, a distinguished Spanish wine producer was drawn to sample an extraordinary wine, prompted by descriptions so captivating that he embarked on a lengthy trip solely to experience a tasting session extending back to 1866. This event proved to be one of the most exceptional wine experiences for him, notably significant as this person is Pablo Álvarez, the proprietor of Vega Sicilia and maker of Unico, one of the world’s foremost red wines, acclaimed and coveted globally.

Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia

The exceptional vintage from 1866 was a Tokaji Eszencia from the revered Oremus estate, recognized for producing the sweetest among the celebrated Hungarian Tokaji wines. Yet, its allure transcends mere sweetness, offering a dense embodiment of its origin’s distinctive essence and complexity, delivered in an unparalleled silky texture. Esteemed historical figures such as Catherine the Great and King Louis XIV cherished this wine, unmatched by any other sweet wine. Despite its legendary status, the isolation wrought by communist rule veiled this exquisite treasure from global recognition, remaining relatively obscure among modern wine aficionados.

Pablo Álvarez

Pablo Álvarez, owner of Vega Sicilia, faced an unexpected opportunity when invited to visit a wine estate in Hungary. Initially hesitant, as his own wine region, Ribera del Duero, struggled for recognition until he restored Vega Sicilia to prominence, he decided to explore. What he discovered were captivating wines like Eszencia, Puttonyos Aszú, and Late Harvest, each unique in sweetness, intensity, and price, which fascinated him deeply.

The burden of managing an ancient estate abroad was the last thing he needed. However, Álvarez’s commitment to excellence at Vega Sicilia, enhancing every detail and only releasing wines that meet a high standard, mirrors his efforts in nurturing oak trees for barrels and corks, showcasing his dedication to the terroir expression of his estates. This philosophy now extends to managing Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary.

Working the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary

And for Pablo, it was all or nothing; he would either buy this ancient estate in Tokaj, Hungary and completely give up his little bit of downtime, or he would graciously turn down the offer and close the door on a special piece of wine history. He felt that the former was the only option he could live with; if the estate fell into ruin, he would always regret it.

Vines in the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary during Winter

Yet, this mission would be different, as it was not just about restoring the estate to its prestigious sweet wine reputation; he realized that the dry white wines from his estate were lovely. He discovered that the Oremus vineyards were classified as a “Primae Classis” in 1772, which can be equated to a first growth property in Bordeaux, so the multifaceted aromatic and flavors with an intense sense of place translate to the dry white wines too. He then decided to seek out the best vineyards for stellar dry white wine and he called on a good friend, Véronique Drouhin – part of the distinguished Burgundy Drouhin wine family, to recommend a viticulturist to pick the ideal plots and use precision vineyard management geared towards producing a top dry white wine. The single vineyard Petrács showed itself as the best of their vineyards for this purpose and now, Pablo is showing the world that Tokaj, Hungary, can make white wines on a level with some of the best in the world.

1920 Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’

If not for the unwavering resolve of a visionary like Pablo, Vega Sicilia might have merely become a forgotten chapter in the annals of Spanish wine—a once illustrious winery that faded into obscurity. Yet, a single determined individual prevented this fate. Today, aficionados who treasure the top Bordeaux and Napa wines globally spare no effort in their pursuit of Vega Sicilia’s Unico vintages. Depending on the vintage, Unico often eclipses other selections in their assemblage.

Occasionally, these collectors journey worldwide to Spain’s premier restaurants to savor an impressive range of Unico vintages. At times, Pablo introduces them to Oremus sweet wines, a delight for those who prefer a dessert wine. Occasionally, he offers a taste of his Oremus dry white wine from the Petrács single vineyard before the event begins. While many dismiss this idea, occasionally a collector joyfully accepts a glass of the Petrács dry white, and in that moment, realizes the exclusivity of the wine his peers overlook.

Oremus vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary during sunset

In times past, many regarded Vega Sicilia as a revered relic dwindling in quality since the mid-20th century, with some speculating it never reached such heights as it was not evaluated by current standards. However, when Pablo Álvarez’s family acquired Vega Sicilia in 1982 and invested significantly in its revival, the world re-discovered that the wines were not only as superb as historical accounts claimed but likely surpassed their legendary status, rendering the term “great” insufficient.

At the onset of Pablo’s commitment to propel Vega Sicilia wines to unrivaled global acclaim, there were skeptics unsure of the vision’s feasibility. However, early supporters who invested in Vega Sicilia during Pablo Álvarez’s transformative era as a visionary leader reaped benefits due to their foresight and boldness in deviating from the prevailing skepticism.

Similarly, a day might come for Oremus, extending beyond its already established sweet wines acclaimed in Tokaj, Hungary. The brand aims to capture the hearts of enthusiasts with its superior single vineyard white wines. These wines promise vibrancy, complexity, and an unmistakable sense of origin, potentially placing Tokaj on the map as a distinguished region for premium dry white wines.

Pablo’s previous success in elevating Ribera del Duero into a top-tier red wine region exemplifies his capacity to replicate this achievement with Tokaj’s white wines. His vision extends to altering perceptions and setting new standards within the wine industry.

Dry white wines, particularly the 2020 Oremus ‘Petrács’ and 2021 Oremus ‘Mandolás’, are positioned alongside sweet wines, marking a significant broadening of Oremus’s wine portfolio.

2020 Oremus ‘Petrács’ Tokaji Dry White Wine, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. This wine captivates with its whimsical notes of honeysuckle and citrus blossom, underscored by a strong mineral core. It features mouthwatering acidity and a lengthy, expressive finish, enhanced by nuances of lemon confit and sea spray.

2021 Oremus ‘Mandolás’ Tokaji Dry, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. The aroma is an intriguing mix of fennel fronds and white pepper, while the palate enjoys the taste of pineapple custard with a gentler acidity than the Petrács. Concluding with the delicate impression of tiny wild white flowers, this wine leaves a memorable aftertaste.

Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest

2022 Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest, Tokaj, Hungary: This wine blends Furmint, Sárgamuskotály, and Kövérszőlő. It signifies the entry level of sweet wines in the Oremus catalog, containing 113g/l of residual sugar. The bouquet offers scents of warm apple strudel and spice cake complemented by vibrant orange peels, all balanced with sharp acidity. Harvesting involves multiple passes through the vineyard, selecting only clusters that are at least 50% botrytized. After destemming, berries are macerated for 4-12 hours before pressing to highlight the noble rot.

2017 Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary: A medley of Furmint, Zéta, and Sárgamuskotály; standing on a higher tier of sweetness, carrying 178g/l of residual sugar. The bouquet features an alluring smoky minerality accompanied by notes of grilled pineapple, lemon meringue, and candied violets, all within a richly textured body lifted by significant acidity. The traditional methods remain unchanged through the centuries, involving the addition of 5 baskets (puttonyos), each with 25 kg of meticulously selected botrytized Aszú berries. The grapes undergo maceration for 12-24 hours, expanding before a gentle pressing. Fermentation is patiently conducted in new Hungarian oak barrels, stretching over a month. Post-fermentation, the wine matures for at least two years in 136 and 220-liter barrels and undergoes an additional 2-3 years of bottle aging.

2012 Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia, Tokaj, Hungary: Forged from a blend of Furmint, Hárslevelü, Zéta, and Sárgauskotály, the Eszencia is hailed as the divine nectar, embodying the soul of Oremus. With a staggering sweetness measured at 569g/l of residual sugar and just 3% alcohol, this wine is a testament to indulgence encapsulated in a bottle. The palate rejoices with prosperous flavors ranging from marmalade, rosehip syrup to quince paste, all built upon a foundation of saline minerality. The finish is distinguished by its immaculate purity and persistent depth, leaving an indelible mark of outstanding flavors.

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