ALPINE, Ore. (AP) — The U.S. West Coast is renowned for its wine production, supplying over 90% of America’s wine. However, this region also faces the constant threat of wildfires, a dangerous combination that proved disastrous for the wine industry in 2020. Scientists are now racing against time to find solutions to this problem and prevent further damage.

When you savor a good wine, you might notice hints of oak or red fruit. But if you were to taste wine made from grapes that have been exposed to smoke, it could leave you with a bitter and unpleasant taste, almost like someone emptied an ashtray into your glass. This ashy flavor is a result of compounds present in the grapes after they have been penetrated by smoke. Researchers from three West Coast universities are collaborating to combat this issue. They are developing spray coatings to shield grapes, identifying the elusive compounds responsible for the undesirable taste, and placing smoke sensors in vineyards to gain a deeper understanding of smoke behavior. The U.S. government is providing millions of dollars in funding to support their research.

Wineries are also taking proactive measures to safeguard their products and maintain their brands. The risk to America’s premier wine-making regions, which suffered billions of dollars in losses due to wildfires in 2020, is escalating. Climate change has led to severe droughts and the proliferation of overgrown forests, creating ideal conditions for wildfires. Grapes are the highest-value crop in the United States, with 96% of the 1 million acres of grape-bearing land located on the West Coast, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Winemakers worldwide are already adapting to climate change by relocating their vineyards to cooler areas and cultivating grape varieties resistant to drought and heat. However, wildfires present an immediate and additional danger that requires scientific intervention.

Tom Collins, a wine scientist at Washington State University, emphasizes the significance of being able to continue wine production in areas where smoke exposures are more likely. Cole Cerrato, a researcher, conducted an experiment at Oregon State University’s vineyard in the village of Alpine. Cerrato used a fan and a dryer vent hose to push smoke from a Weber grill into a row of grapes enclosed in a makeshift greenhouse made of plastic sheets. The researchers then turned the smoke-impacted grapes into wine and discovered the presence of sulfur-containing compounds known as thiophenols, which contribute to the ashy flavor. These volatile phenols were previously identified by Australian researchers more than a decade ago. Australia’s wine industry has long been affected by bushfires.

Collins further confirmed the presence of sulfur compounds in wine associated with smoke exposure in the Oregon vineyard but absent in samples without smoke exposure. The researchers aim to understand how these previously undetectable thiophenols appear in smoke-impacted wine and find methods to eliminate them. Cerrato acknowledges that there is still much more research needed to unravel the chemistry behind these new compounds.

Wine made from tainted grapes is often of such poor quality that it cannot be sold. Even if it does make it to store shelves, a winemaker’s reputation may be irreparably damaged. In the wake of record wildfires in 2020, some California wineries refused to accept grapes unless they were tested for smoke exposure. However, many growers faced challenges finding laboratories to analyze their grapes due to overwhelming demand. Industry analyst Jon Moramarco estimates that the damage to California’s wine industry alone amounted to $3.7 billion, primarily from the loss of future wine sales. The most significant impact was felt in Napa Valley, an area known for its high-priced grapes and wines. Moramarco explains that the loss of a ton of ruined cabernet sauvignon grapes equates to approximately 720 bottles of wine, valued at $100 per bottle. The financial impact can accumulate rapidly under such circumstances.

In 2020, between 165,000 to 325,000 tons of California wine grapes were left unpicked due to the wildfires. The urgency to address this issue stems from the critical importance of the wine industry, not only as an economic asset but also as a cultural symbol and source of pride for the West Coast. Scientists, researchers, and winemakers continue to collaborate in their pursuit of solutions to protect this cherished industry from the escalating threat of wildfires.

Title: Navigating the Challenges of Wildfire Smoke in Winemaking

Introduction:

The devastating impact of wildfires on vineyards and winemakers cannot be undermined. With the rising prevalence of wildfires, vineyard owners and winemakers are facing unprecedented challenges. From difficulty in securing insurance to the risk of producing smoke-impacted wine, the industry is in desperate need of innovative solutions. In this article, we will delve into the efforts being made to mitigate the effects of wildfire smoke exposure on wine grapes and the potential strategies to preserve the art of winemaking.

The Growing Concern:

According to Natalie Collins, president of the California Association of Winegrape Growers, securing insurance has become a major hurdle for many vineyard owners due to the high risk of wildfires in their regions. Even for those able to obtain insurance, the rates have skyrocketed. Despite these obstacles, growers are persevering and seeking effective ways to minimize the impact of smoke on their wine production.

Innovative Techniques:

Winemakers are exploring various techniques to combat the effects of smoke exposure. Some employ methods such as passing the wine through membranes or treating it with carbon to reduce smoke impact. However, these techniques can also compromise the intricate flavors of the wine. Another option is blending impacted grapes with unaffected grapes, which can help dilute the concentration of smoke flavor compounds. Additionally, making rosé wine instead of red can minimize the amount of skin contact, thereby reducing smoke flavor compounds.

Exploring Scientific Solutions:

Researchers at Washington State University, led by Collins, have been experimenting with innovative methods to combat smoke exposure. They have found promising results by spraying fine-powdered clays, such as kaolin or bentonite, mixed with water onto wine grapes. These clays absorb the smoke-related materials, which can then be washed off before the harvest. Meanwhile, Oregon State University is developing a spray-on coating as another possible solution. Multiple vineyards across California, Oregon, and Washington have also installed smoke sensors, thanks to a $7.65 million USDA grant. These sensors will measure smoke marker compounds and aid in developing mitigation strategies and assessing smoke exposure risk.

The Winemakers’ Perspective:

Greg Jones, a winery director from Oregon and an advocate for the industry, has praised the ongoing research efforts by scientists. For winemakers, it is crucial to identify potential compounds that can lead to smoke-impacted wine. With the help of scientific advancements, winemakers will be better equipped to make informed decisions and tackle the challenges posed by wildfires.

The Path Ahead:

While there may not be a single solution to combat the impact of wildfire smoke on vineyards and winemaking, the collective efforts of researchers, winemakers, and industry organizations are paving the way for future strategies. Natalie Collins asserts that success lies in finding a combination of effective methods rather than relying on a “magic bullet.” The dedication and perseverance of the wine industry ensure that, despite the challenges, the art of winemaking will continue to thrive.

Conclusion:

The threat of wildfire smoke exposure looms large over the wine industry, but the resilience and determination of growers and winemakers create a sense of optimism. Through innovative techniques, scientific research, and proactive measures, the industry is working towards minimizing the impact of smoke on wine grapes and ultimately preserving the art of winemaking. While challenges persist, the collective efforts of all stakeholders hold the promise of success.