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Wine 988

Exploring the Surprising Shift: A Premier Sweet Wine Region Masters the Art of Premium Dry White Wine

Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia

Oremus cellar

Within the shadows of the ancient vaults, one can spot the gleaming reserves of what one might call liquid gold. These vaults, spanning a vast network of corridors, were carved over 400 years ago. Despite the ebb of power from the once dominant kingdom, some legacies such as these vaults magnificently endure. In these caves, tightly held secrets in the form of Tokaji wine bottles emit a mystical glow, emblematic of the term “liquid gold”—a sweet wine unparalleled, named after the region where it originated.

Today, a noted connoisseur from the realm of European red wines ventured into this time-capsuled vineyard nestled in the Hungarian countryside, once part of the robust Austro-Hungarian Empire. As historical tides such as WWI, WWII, and the downfall of communism shook the nation, such events threatened the legacy of the cherished Tokaji wines—wines that commanded the admiration of royalty. Crafting these wines involves an intensive process that demands significant labor and expense, making them treasured yet economically challenging ventures.

Visit the wine traditions of Hungary here.

The story begins with an esteemed individual from a select group of family-operated, top-tier wine producers who received an invitation to acquire a historic vineyard renowned for preserving the rich legacy of Hungary’s prominence in winemaking.

Under the shimmering golden sunlight that draped over the white linen tablecloth, a distinguished Spanish wine producer was drawn to sample an extraordinary wine, prompted by descriptions so captivating that he embarked on a lengthy trip solely to experience a tasting session extending back to 1866. This event proved to be one of the most exceptional wine experiences for him, notably significant as this person is Pablo Álvarez, the proprietor of Vega Sicilia and maker of Unico, one of the world’s foremost red wines, acclaimed and coveted globally.

Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia

The exceptional vintage from 1866 was a Tokaji Eszencia from the revered Oremus estate, recognized for producing the sweetest among the celebrated Hungarian Tokaji wines. Yet, its allure transcends mere sweetness, offering a dense embodiment of its origin’s distinctive essence and complexity, delivered in an unparalleled silky texture. Esteemed historical figures such as Catherine the Great and King Louis XIV cherished this wine, unmatched by any other sweet wine. Despite its legendary status, the isolation wrought by communist rule veiled this exquisite treasure from global recognition, remaining relatively obscure among modern wine aficionados.

Pablo Álvarez

Pablo Álvarez, owner of Vega Sicilia, faced an unexpected opportunity when invited to visit a wine estate in Hungary. Initially hesitant, as his own wine region, Ribera del Duero, struggled for recognition until he restored Vega Sicilia to prominence, he decided to explore. What he discovered were captivating wines like Eszencia, Puttonyos Aszú, and Late Harvest, each unique in sweetness, intensity, and price, which fascinated him deeply.

The burden of managing an ancient estate abroad was the last thing he needed. However, Álvarez’s commitment to excellence at Vega Sicilia, enhancing every detail and only releasing wines that meet a high standard, mirrors his efforts in nurturing oak trees for barrels and corks, showcasing his dedication to the terroir expression of his estates. This philosophy now extends to managing Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary.

Working the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary

And for Pablo, it was all or nothing; he would either buy this ancient estate in Tokaj, Hungary and completely give up his little bit of downtime, or he would graciously turn down the offer and close the door on a special piece of wine history. He felt that the former was the only option he could live with; if the estate fell into ruin, he would always regret it.

Vines in the Oremus Vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary during Winter

Yet, this mission would be different, as it was not just about restoring the estate to its prestigious sweet wine reputation; he realized that the dry white wines from his estate were lovely. He discovered that the Oremus vineyards were classified as a “Primae Classis” in 1772, which can be equated to a first growth property in Bordeaux, so the multifaceted aromatic and flavors with an intense sense of place translate to the dry white wines too. He then decided to seek out the best vineyards for stellar dry white wine and he called on a good friend, Véronique Drouhin – part of the distinguished Burgundy Drouhin wine family, to recommend a viticulturist to pick the ideal plots and use precision vineyard management geared towards producing a top dry white wine. The single vineyard Petrács showed itself as the best of their vineyards for this purpose and now, Pablo is showing the world that Tokaj, Hungary, can make white wines on a level with some of the best in the world.

1920 Vega Sicilia ‘Unico’

If not for the unwavering resolve of a visionary like Pablo, Vega Sicilia might have merely become a forgotten chapter in the annals of Spanish wine—a once illustrious winery that faded into obscurity. Yet, a single determined individual prevented this fate. Today, aficionados who treasure the top Bordeaux and Napa wines globally spare no effort in their pursuit of Vega Sicilia’s Unico vintages. Depending on the vintage, Unico often eclipses other selections in their assemblage.

Occasionally, these collectors journey worldwide to Spain’s premier restaurants to savor an impressive range of Unico vintages. At times, Pablo introduces them to Oremus sweet wines, a delight for those who prefer a dessert wine. Occasionally, he offers a taste of his Oremus dry white wine from the Petrács single vineyard before the event begins. While many dismiss this idea, occasionally a collector joyfully accepts a glass of the Petrács dry white, and in that moment, realizes the exclusivity of the wine his peers overlook.

Oremus vineyards in Tokaj, Hungary during sunset

In times past, many regarded Vega Sicilia as a revered relic dwindling in quality since the mid-20th century, with some speculating it never reached such heights as it was not evaluated by current standards. However, when Pablo Álvarez’s family acquired Vega Sicilia in 1982 and invested significantly in its revival, the world re-discovered that the wines were not only as superb as historical accounts claimed but likely surpassed their legendary status, rendering the term “great” insufficient.

At the onset of Pablo’s commitment to propel Vega Sicilia wines to unrivaled global acclaim, there were skeptics unsure of the vision’s feasibility. However, early supporters who invested in Vega Sicilia during Pablo Álvarez’s transformative era as a visionary leader reaped benefits due to their foresight and boldness in deviating from the prevailing skepticism.

Similarly, a day might come for Oremus, extending beyond its already established sweet wines acclaimed in Tokaj, Hungary. The brand aims to capture the hearts of enthusiasts with its superior single vineyard white wines. These wines promise vibrancy, complexity, and an unmistakable sense of origin, potentially placing Tokaj on the map as a distinguished region for premium dry white wines.

Pablo’s previous success in elevating Ribera del Duero into a top-tier red wine region exemplifies his capacity to replicate this achievement with Tokaj’s white wines. His vision extends to altering perceptions and setting new standards within the wine industry.

Dry white wines, particularly the 2020 Oremus ‘Petrács’ and 2021 Oremus ‘Mandolás’, are positioned alongside sweet wines, marking a significant broadening of Oremus’s wine portfolio.

2020 Oremus ‘Petrács’ Tokaji Dry White Wine, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. This wine captivates with its whimsical notes of honeysuckle and citrus blossom, underscored by a strong mineral core. It features mouthwatering acidity and a lengthy, expressive finish, enhanced by nuances of lemon confit and sea spray.

2021 Oremus ‘Mandolás’ Tokaji Dry, Tokaj, Hungary: 100% Furmint. The aroma is an intriguing mix of fennel fronds and white pepper, while the palate enjoys the taste of pineapple custard with a gentler acidity than the Petrács. Concluding with the delicate impression of tiny wild white flowers, this wine leaves a memorable aftertaste.

Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest

2022 Oremus, Tokaji Late Harvest, Tokaj, Hungary: This wine blends Furmint, Sárgamuskotály, and Kövérszőlő. It signifies the entry level of sweet wines in the Oremus catalog, containing 113g/l of residual sugar. The bouquet offers scents of warm apple strudel and spice cake complemented by vibrant orange peels, all balanced with sharp acidity. Harvesting involves multiple passes through the vineyard, selecting only clusters that are at least 50% botrytized. After destemming, berries are macerated for 4-12 hours before pressing to highlight the noble rot.

2017 Oremus, Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, Tokaj, Hungary: A medley of Furmint, Zéta, and Sárgamuskotály; standing on a higher tier of sweetness, carrying 178g/l of residual sugar. The bouquet features an alluring smoky minerality accompanied by notes of grilled pineapple, lemon meringue, and candied violets, all within a richly textured body lifted by significant acidity. The traditional methods remain unchanged through the centuries, involving the addition of 5 baskets (puttonyos), each with 25 kg of meticulously selected botrytized Aszú berries. The grapes undergo maceration for 12-24 hours, expanding before a gentle pressing. Fermentation is patiently conducted in new Hungarian oak barrels, stretching over a month. Post-fermentation, the wine matures for at least two years in 136 and 220-liter barrels and undergoes an additional 2-3 years of bottle aging.

2012 Oremus, Tokaji Eszencia, Tokaj, Hungary: Forged from a blend of Furmint, Hárslevelü, Zéta, and Sárgauskotály, the Eszencia is hailed as the divine nectar, embodying the soul of Oremus. With a staggering sweetness measured at 569g/l of residual sugar and just 3% alcohol, this wine is a testament to indulgence encapsulated in a bottle. The palate rejoices with prosperous flavors ranging from marmalade, rosehip syrup to quince paste, all built upon a foundation of saline minerality. The finish is distinguished by its immaculate purity and persistent depth, leaving an indelible mark of outstanding flavors.

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August 31, 2024 Wine

Gatorwine: The Gatorade and Wine Combo Set to Shake Up Your Dinner Party!

It seems that initially, everyone is apprehensive but ends up genuinely amused after trying gatorwine, a quirky mix of inexpensive red wine (costing under $12) and Gatorade. It’s essential, as the aficionados assert, to use the Glacier Freeze Gatorade—a light blue variant that is said to have berry and citrus overtones. reportedly describes this particular detail.

The drink, seemingly emerging out of thin air, actually owes its discovery to “GoatsNowhere,” a YouTube commentator who shared this concoction during a special tasting episode on the Babish Culinary Universe channel, hosted by the well-known chef and YouTuber Andrew Rea, also popularly called Binging with Babish. Rea’s entertaining and perplexed response significantly highlighted the beverage.

Rea, experimenting with the drink, remarked, “It’s not like anything I’ve ever tasted, ever,” later comparing it to sangria. Despite its unconventional blend, he amusingly admitted preferring it over certain commercial wines, laughing at his own paradoxical enjoyment. He suggested possibly serving it on the rocks after drinking it from a chilled glass. Throughout the testing, he adjusted his rating of the drink from a 6 to a 7 and even had a few refills during the tasting.

Since shared with Rea’s vast audience, curiosity spiked among many, with numerous viewers willing to taste it, albeit with slight hesitation. Nevertheless, the general consensus turned out more positive than anticipated.

“I tried gatorwine yesterday. I was ready to hate it. I made more today. You win,” commented mattyj5751 on YouTube.

“It’s kind of calming down the wine, for people who don’t drink wine,” says Instagram’s @wendellion.

“Oh no. Oh no! It’s good,” says chagrined TikToker @wanderingmallory.

Cocktail creator-reviewer Prescott Vanmeyer III, better known as Unemployed Wine Guy, likes gatorwine well enough to suggest using the idea to stretch your red wine supply, and also tests out the admonition that it must be the light blue one. When he tries it with the Glacier Cherry and Grape flavors, his face tells you everything you need to know.

Well, I’ve put it off as long as I can. Although many testers just eyeball it, I’ve laid out my ingredients and a cocktail jigger to make sure I get it precisely 50-50.

I’ve decided on a pinot noir since we are reportedly in sangria territory, and given both the instruction to limit expenditure to $12 and the relative gravitas of this assignment, the brand Low Hanging Fruit was too good to pass up. One of the cheapest wines out there but actually not one of the worst, it’s on the tart side, heavy on the berry notes, and just astringent enough to be interesting — what professional wine tasters might charitably call “approachable.” You don’t have to fret about unwanted bits falling into the wine during uncorking, either, because the cork is plastic.

Pictured is 2.5 ounces each of red wine and Glacier Freeze Gatorade. I’m surprised that the color isn’t all wrong, purple or muddy; it’s just a nice burgundy, although a bit more translucent than a regular glass of red. Since the alcohol content is cut in half, it has about as much leg as a snake on skates.

A good red should balance acidity, astringency, fruit and alcohol in pleasing harmony. The Gatorade reduces the acidity to somewhere in the vicinity of a milkshake, and much in the way adding a pinch of salt to coffee can reduce bitterness, the electrolytes mean the tannins are missing in action. The finish falls off a cliff and it has all the complexity of a straight line. Smooth, nonthreatening, mildly patronizing — akin to drinking a Care Bear.

But Care Bears are pretty delightful! They spread joy, demanding nothing in return. Gatorwine isn’t going to do anything to upset you; in fact, it giggles a little bit when you sip it. I decided to really lean into the sangria angle and let it chill with diced fruit for a few hours, and honestly, although the fruit at the end is the best part and I don’t suggest ice since it’s already dilute, you could serve this at a dinner party. The only people who will know are the ones who have tried it before, and they’re not going to want to admit it by way of revealing your secrets.

Surely by this point, you have questions. I still have some myself. But as a registered dietitian, I’ll take a crack at some of the ones that show up in the comments most.

First, is there any benefit to drinking this? Well, on the one hand, I’ve never said to a client, “You know, as your dietitian, I really think you should start drinking.” There is nothing in this experience that you can’t get from a great mocktail, and any alleged health benefits are vastly overstated. But, on the other hand, it has half the alcohol by volume of wine by itself, so if you’ve already decided to have a glass, that’s a good thing in relative terms.

Second, will the electrolytes help ameliorate the risk of hangovers? Maybe just a little, in that it could reduce the dehydrating effects of alcohol, but if you’re drinking enough gatorwine to need hangover amelioration, maybe you should reevaluate your life choices.

Lastly, is it worth the shame of going through the grocery checkout with these ingredients just to try a guilty glass with your next frozen pizza night?

Yeah … it kind of is.

This article was originally published on TODAY.com

August 30, 2024 Wine

Full Circle in FOSS: Microsoft’s Surprising Donation of Mono to the Wine Project

Kevin Purdy

– Aug 28, 2024 5:15 pm UTC

Microsoft has donated the Mono Project, an open-source framework that brought its .NET platform to non-Windows systems, to the Wine community. WineHQ will be the steward of the Mono Project upstream code, while Microsoft will encourage Mono-based apps to migrate to its open source .NET framework.

As Microsoft notes on the Mono Project homepage, the last major release of Mono was in July 2019. Mono was “a trailblazer for the .NET platform across many operating systems” and was the first implementation of .NET on Android, iOS, Linux, and other operating systems.

Mono began as a project of Miguel de Icaza, co-creator of the GNOME desktop. De Icaza led Ximian (originally Helix Code), aiming to bring Microsoft’s then-new .NET platform to Unix-like platforms. Ximian was acquired by Novell in 2003.

Mono played a crucial role in de Icaza’s initiative to port Microsoft’s Silverlight, a plugin aimed at running rich-media applications akin to Flash, to Linux platforms. Novell advocated for the use of Mono to create iOS applications using C# and other .NET languages. In 2009, Microsoft extended its “Community Promise” to the .NET frameworks, thereby ensuring that Mono could thrive independently of Microsoft’s direct oversight.

By 2011, however, Novell was nearing its end, being absorbed and effectively becoming obsolete. During this period, de Icaza initiated Xamarin to promote Mono’s use on Android. Following this change, Novell (via its SUSE subsidiary) and Xamarin entered into an agreement allowing Xamarin to assume control over the intellectual property and clientele, integrating Mono within Novell/SUSE.

What implications does this development have for Mono and Wine? Initially, not much. Wine, which facilitates the operation of Windows applications on POSIX-compliant systems, already incorporates Mono in its fixes and features a custom Mono engine. By transferring Mono to Wine, Microsoft has effectively dispelled any lingering doubts regarding its influence over Mono. While today’s Microsoft, more conversant with open-source norms, has made this transition, it remains a significant, positive gesture regardless.

August 29, 2024 Wine

Should You Trust ‘Expert’ Wine Reviews If They Are Often Paid For?

Lecturer, Faculty of Business and Law, School of Business, University of Wollongong, University of Wollongong

Paul Chad does not work for, consult, own shares in or receive funding from any company or organization that would benefit from this article, and has disclosed no relevant affiliations beyond their academic appointment.

University of Wollongong provides funding as a member of The Conversation AU.

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Wine is the most popular alcoholic beverage in Australia. The country boasts over 2,100 local wineries, in addition to a substantial variety of imported wines. Given the extensive range available and the vast price spectrum – from under $5 to over $1,000 – even seasoned wine lovers can find selecting the right bottle a challenge.

Does a $1,000 wine necessarily provide 200 times the pleasure of a $5 bottle? The enjoyment of wine is profoundly personal and subjective. However, without the chance to try before buying, one must rely on other indicators of quality.

When purchasing wine, consumers often consider factors such as the brand’s reputation, critiques, ratings (including suggestions from friends), flavor preferences like grape type and sweetness, the occasion for drinking, price, and the attractiveness of the label, packaging, or product name.

Moreover, wineries and alcohol retailers frequently engage in marketing their products by showcasing high ratings from wine reviews and competition results. But the real question remains, how beneficial are these ratings and accolades?

First, what qualifies someone to be a wine reviewer? Although there are no specific qualifications, reviewers will typically have extensive training and experience in wine appreciation and/or winemaking.

Importantly, wine is generally rated based on its quality relative to other wines of the same grape variety and growing region. This means it is problematic to directly compare ratings across different wine varieties and regions.

Robert Parker, one of the world’s top wine critics, developed a 100-point rating system for wine. While variants exist, the 100-point scale typically starts at 50, with points awarded for colour (5 points max), aroma/bouquet (15 points), flavour/finish (20 points) and overall quality (10 points).

In Australia, James Halliday is a legend of the wine industry and founder of the Halliday Wine Companion, which provides tasting notes, ratings based on Halliday’s own version of the 100-point system, winery ratings and annual awards.

Renowned critics such as Huon Hooke and Bob Campbell, who is one of the few with the esteemed Master of Wine title, contribute to The Real Review. This platform provides wine critiques, scores, an annual “top wineries” list, and a “wine classification” scheme for wines from Australia and New Zealand. More on Bob Campbell and The Real Review.

While submitting wines for evaluation at Wine Companion and The Real Review is free for wineries, the control of these reviews remains with the respective platforms. If wineries wish to use the reviews for promotional purposes, they must obtain a membership from Wine Companion or The Real Review.

In addition, Wine Pilot, initiated by Angus Hughson in Australia, levies a $70 fee plus GST for each review, which the winery can then employ freely for marketing. Concurrently, Wine Orbit, under Sam Kim in New Zealand, reviews each bottle of Australian wine for $30, and the reviewed wineries may use these assessments in their marketing without further charge. Details on Wine Pilot’s fees and Wine Orbit’s charges.

Opinions diverge on whether upfront charges for wine reviews are justified, comparing this approach to the model of offering free reviews and then requiring annual memberships for marketing use. Diverse perspectives on wine review payments.

This is a question readers will need to judge for themselves.

There are many discussions about the objectivity of reviewers and their potential financial incentives to provide favorable reviews. If a reviewer consistently rates a winery poorly, it’s possible that said winery might cease to seek their services, impacting the reviewer’s earnings. However, the reviewer’s personal integrity is also at stake.

The Conversation spoke with Sam Kim, who explained that his $30 flat fee assists in the operation of his small business, adding that offering his services for free was not sustainable.

When questioned about his unbiasedness, he remarked, “I would like to say ‘no’, but it’s not up to me to judge. Consumers will ultimately decide that. And given I have been around a while, perhaps I’m doing okay much of the time.”

Angus Hughson of Wine Pilot noted that “various factors could sway opinions of wine reviewers,” including personal relationships with vintners fostered by their profession.

He mentioned that the essence of wine review relies on personal integrity, emphasizing that reviewers who exaggerate their scores for more visibility or recognition might harm their reputation, ultimately “diminishing their impact over time.”

Jacinta Hardie-Grant, Managing Director at Halliday, asserted that the platforms’s subscription-based marketing approach does not affect the neutrality of reviews. She clarified that the reviewers are unaware of whether a winery submitting samples for review holds a subscription.

The Real Review was not available for comment before the deadline.

Let’s now consider wine shows and awards. There are some prestigious wine shows such as the London-based Decanter Awards, as well as various smaller shows.

Show operators typically charge wineries to enter their wines, so you really do “have to be in it to win it”. Some wineries choose not to enter, while others are renowned for repeat entries.

But there is a potential problem with the wine show process. Ideally, a rigid, scientific method would be used to determine the winners – but this is not always possible, or indeed practical.

Wine is judged “blind”, whereby judges are unaware of the brand. This is a positive. However, the judges will typically judge numerous wines, so the order of judging can affect the results, which is a negative.

Wine show results and awards also often compare across wine varieties and regions, or have a “Winery of the Year” award. These results and awards have their own sets of judging criteria and are often viewed with a level of scepticism.

Consumers should remember these results and awards, while they do have some science behind them, are subjective.

Wine reviewers regularly release results of their wine review activities. My inbox subsequently gets bombarded by wineries promoting their winning wines, referring to reviews and award results.

But these reviews and results remain subjective. Just because one person likes a wine, that doesn’t mean someone else (you) will definitely like it!

It’s always wise to sample before making a purchase. To do this, consider attending wine tastings at local shops, visiting wineries for cellar-door experiences, or ordering a glass of wine at various restaurants.

When you decide to purchase a bottle, referring to reviews or awards can still be helpful, but remember to stay within your budget.

August 28, 2024 Wine

When Wine Became Warfare: The Historical Clash Over the Gamay Grape Led by the Duke of Burgundy

On July 31, 1395, the Duke of Burgundy declared a war of annihilation on an “evil and disloyal” enemy and invader: a purple, acidic grape known as “Gamay.”

According to the ordinance issued by Philip the Bold, Gamay not only threatened the livelihoods of honest vignerons who used higher-quality grapes, but also ruined Burgundy’s reputation for fine Pinot Noir wines with its bitter taste and apparently harmful effects on public health. In order to safeguard the esteemed Pinot Noir and the well-being of Philip’s people, the ordinance declared, all Gamay vines were to be cut down within a month and completely uprooted by the following Easter: “ripped out, eradicated, destroyed, reduced to nought … forever.”

If the language of the edict seemed needlessly vindictive, perhaps it was because this war was personal to Philip, a keen economic steward who had worked assiduously to develop Burgundian wine production. As a younger son to King John II of France, Philip had received Burgundy as a compensation prize while his elder brother Charles V succeeded to the throne. With royal authority now disintegrating under the latter’s mentally unstable son Charles VI, the ambitious Philip sought not only to rule his appanage as an effectively independent duke, but also to outshine all other fiefdoms in power, riches, and magnificence.

In this competition, Philip understood that wine, with the trade revenue and prestige it brought to him and his duchy, was a most valuable currency.

In the Late Middle Ages, Burgundian Pinot Noir was rapidly establishing itself as a superior variety of wine, yet it faced considerable threats from both natural disasters and human actions. The Hundred Years’ War brought English soldiers who wreaked havoc in the region, and not long afterward, the Black Death hit Burgundy hard in 1348 and even harder in 1360.

The path to recovery was sluggish, and during the 1390s, Philip the Bold became alarmed by a new challenge. The Gamay grape, originating from a small village near Beaune, started to proliferate in Burgundian vineyards. It was productive, yielding about triple the wine per acre and maturing two weeks earlier than the Pinot grape.

Although high yields were not inherently a problem, the abundance of what was considered an inferior grape compared to Pinot was troubling to the duke. He was concerned that the Gamay vines would dominate the land, displacing the more esteemed Pinot or other more valuable crops. Philip lamented that vineyards best suited for high-quality wine were being neglected for the sake of maximizing output of lesser wines. He criticized the use of organic fertilizer on vines for imparting undesirable flavors and accused some vendors of diluting Gamay wine with hot water to mask its bitterness, which would later revert, rendering the wine “quite foul.”

Philip described this inferior wine as harmful to human health, a claim based not on his own experience but on hearsay—believing that its bitterness was indicative of broader dangers. In contrast, he praised the Pinot Noir as being highly beneficial for health. This negative view toward Gamay led to a decrease in the overall prestige of Burgundian wines, as it began to be identified not by the renowned Pinot variant but by the ubiquitous Gamay vine. This shift deeply troubled Philip, leading him to vocalize significant concern for his land and people, emphasizing the urgent need for intervention to preserve the reputation and quality of Burgundian wine.

That remedy was an order for the destruction of all Gamay vines within a month. Because Philip issued the ordinance at the end of July, vignerons would have to cut down their own harvest just as the grapes were beginning to ripen. Most poorer vignerons, more concerned about feeding and sheltering their families than the lofty ambitions and tastes of a royal prince, appreciated the Gamay for its easy harvest and high yield, which offered a reprieve that the temperamental and needy Pinot could not provide.

While Philip threatened a heavy fine for infractions, the prospect of losing much of their 1395 vintage would ruin Gamay growers who could not have foreseen the new orders. It’s probable that many of them, staying true to the healthy medieval tradition of popular resistance against unjust laws, disobeyed Philip’s ordinance, preferring to risk a fine than guarantee their own ruin.

Philip claimed in the ordinance to receive support from “many bourgeois [townspeople] and others of our good towns of Beaune, Dijon, and Chalon and their environs” who benefited from the influx of revenue and goods that came with selling good wine, but the actual reaction told an entirely different story. On August 9, 1395, the municipal council of Dijon, the largest city in the duchy proper (not counting the Flemish possessions of Philip’s wife), denounced the ordinance as a violation of their civic privileges and refused to publish or implement it. The duke responded by throwing the mayor in prison and appointing a governor to take control on the pretext of dealing with the alleged Gamay-and-water malpractice, possibly violating Dijon’s original charter that gave its own citizens responsibility for supervising the city’s economic life.

If the duke thought his heavy hand would stabilize Burgundy’s wine sector and move the region towards prosperity, he was wrong. The destruction of Gamay vines, which had emerged as a natural response to the already-declining productivity that Philip sought to reverse, plunged the region into a recession. Productivity fell ever more steeply, speculation in wine sales collapsed, and poverty gripped a population shorn of their precious trade. Few places were struck more severely than Beaune, the birthplace of Gamay, where records show a drop in the annual local wine monopoly bid from 65 livres in 1394 to just 27 livres in 1400.

Within that same time period, the proportion of financially solvent households in Beaune dropped from 41% to 13%. The Burgundian vineyards would eventually grow back after decades of re-cultivation, by which time commerce had fallen into the hands of foreign merchants and Burgundy had become a backwater in its own namesake polity (a modern label, of course) compared to the trade-enriched Low Countries, which Philip and his descendants acquired through strategic marriages.

Still, the ordinance may have accomplished some of Philip’s objectives. While the ordinance targeted Gamay, the political independence of cities like Dijon and Beaune also fell victim to its enforcement, a possibly intended effect for a ruler seeking to extend his authority. And by imposing prototypical measures designed to address quality control and shape economic output, Philip resembled the head of a modern administrative state using the powers at hand to sketch out the boundaries and character of what would eventually become the official Vin de Bourgogne regional appellation (AOC).

Scatterings of Gamay survived in reduced form, with many of its vines exiled to Beaujolais, an area south of the duchy. There, warmed by golden summers and nurtured by granite-flecked soil, the hated grape re-emerged in triumph, producing a cheerful, elegant variety of wine that, when released and consumed at a young age, shed the bitterness that so offended the ducal tongue. While Beaujolais red remained a cherished table wine for the locals over the next several centuries, its redeeming qualities eventually earned it worldwide popularity and a long-awaited appellation in 1936, followed by a 2011 re-classification as AOC Bourgogne Gamay under the broader Burgundian appellation.

Fortunately for Philip, he did not live to see his defeat at the hands of a grape.

August 27, 2024 Wine

Renowned Winemaker for Iconic Brands Crafts Exclusive Pinot Noir Under His Own Label

Coastlands Vineyard

She embodied strength, freedom, and natural elegance, her hair catching the sunlight as she meticulously prepared the soil for an assortment of 18 Pinot Noir clones. These were the types of grapes that produced wines without the robust structure or the intensity of the popular Cabernet Sauvignon. Unlike the masses, she thrived on exploring uncharted territories. Her past adventures included crafting surfboards in the 1950s, piloting aircraft for swordfish spotting, and dedicating a quarter-century as the art director at Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine. Together with her husband, they ventured into their own path on their Sonoma Coast property in California, a mere three miles from the bracing Pacific Ocean.

In 1989, the couple embarked on a new journey, planting a vineyard of Pinot Noir alongside her marine biologist husband, well before the varietal gained popularity amongst premium wine enthusiasts for its finesse and enchanting aroma. They chose a serene spot, nestled among Bay Laurel trees, dominated by an ancient oak that bore the inscription ‘1906’—likely a memorial of the great San Francisco earthquake.

Their son Ross, a college student at the time, assisted in the vineyard to earn extra money. Ross harbored dreams of a professional music career, performing with his band while studying agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, where he concentrated on soil science. At that point, he had no plans to pursue winemaking or take over the family vineyard, a mere acre and a half of Pinot Noir clones planted on their own roots, yet this small scale farming was a deeply cherished family endeavor.

A few of Ross Cobb’s records

At a pivotal moment in life, Ross chose to deeply engage not only with vineyards but also with mastering the craft of winemaking. His journey led him to work across Sonoma with esteemed wine producers, experiencing operations of various sizes and exploring different wine styles and grape varieties. Ultimately, he developed a deep passion for crafting small-batch, site-specific Pinot Noir through his own venture, Cobb Wines.

Ross also possesses an extensive collection of vinyl records, numbering around 8,000, though he admits to having lost count. With no specific organization to his collection, he enjoys the spontaneity of choosing a record at random, which influences what he listens to next. His collection reflects various phases of his musical taste, including albums that were given to him for free by collectors who needed to free up space. This eclectic collection underscores Ross’s philosophy of finding value in all things, provided one remains open to the possibilities.

Ross’s approach to wine mirrored his open-mindedness in music. Starting in 1994, his first professional engagement was with Ferrari-Carano, where he established their inaugural soil lab, absorbing how to produce fine wines on a grand scale. Seeking diverse experiences, he moved on to work with Randall Grahm at Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, a smaller enterprise about two hours south of Sonoma. Here, Randall was a pioneer in utilizing Rhône grape varieties and experimenting with unconventional grapes and winemaking techniques. The contrast between these experiences enriched Ross’s understanding and appreciation of winemaking’s vast spectrum.

He began his career with renowned Pinot Noir producers along the Sonoma Coast, starting at Williams Selyem as a viticulturist and enologist. He later joined Flowers Winery as an associate winemaker under Hugh Chappelle before taking the lead. His relationship with David Hirsch led him to launch the Hirsch Vineyards brand, serving as head winemaker until his daughter, Jasmine Hirsch, succeeded him.

Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard neighboring Cobbs’ Coastland Vineyard

Meanwhile, Ross’s journey in the wine industry paralleled his parents’ venture of selling a special block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams, a co-founder of Williams Selyem, planted first in 1989. During a visit to taste various Pinot Noir clones at their small vineyard, they found that the Jackson 16 clone, believed to have originated in California in the late 1800s, suited their preferences best. Consequently, the Cobbs expanded their vineyard with more Jackson 16 plantings, adding another 12 and a half acres downhill, totaling 14 acres, becoming a reputed source for top-tier Sonoma Pinot Noir producers.

Remarkably, the original vines planted in 1989, grown on their own roots, have managed without irrigation for approximately 25 years.

Burgundy vineyards

Ross still maintains a passion for a broad variety of music, gravitating towards sounds that inspire him. However, his devotion to wine has grown more focused over the years. Initially crafting small batches of wine from his family’s land while holding a day job at another winery, he eventually left to dedicate himself entirely to nurturing his own brand. This commitment allowed him to delve deeply into the unique characteristics of each segment of their vineyards. His admiration grew for the way top Burgundy wine producers could encapsulate the essence of a place in their bottles. Despite financial constraints, Ross would frequently fly to Burgundy, armed with an assortment of fine California Pinot Noir wines. His visits were welcomed; many producers were eager to exchange knowledge. Ross considered himself fortunate to absorb centuries-old wisdom handed down through generations.

His pilgrimages to Burgundy numbered 14, despite suggestions from peers to explore other regions. Captivated by Burgundian wines, Ross sought to emulate their ability to distinctively represent the nuances of specific vineyard parcels. He was driven by the belief that Pinot Noir, with its sensitivity to terroir, was the perfect conduit for expressing the qualities of his family’s land and eventually broadened this endeavor by acquiring grapes from additional sites.

Coastlands Vineyard

Ross’s family owns the Coastlands Vineyard where he produces a unique wine using grapes solely from his mother’s initial plantings. He’s been experimenting with their preferred Pinot Noir clone, the Jackson 16. This grape not only has aromatic and flavor profiles cherished by his parents and the renowned Burt Williams but also shows potential resistance to phylloxera, a pest known for devastating European vineyards over a century ago. This resistance is notable since the traditional method to combat this pest has been grafting European vines onto American rootstock, and the Cobbs’ decision to plant Pinot Noir on its original roots is exceptional.

Ross emphasizes the measures they take to protect their vineyard from phylloxera, aided by its isolated location. With only two other vineyards nearby and neither affected by the pest, it remains a concern. If Jackson 16 proves resistant, Ross considers planting all his vineyards with own-rooted vines, hoping his daughter might continue this potentially groundbreaking work in viticulture.

Reflecting on the past, Ross recalls the influential moments of his parents planting the vineyard. As a college student unsure of his future, he didn’t appreciate those moments fully. It’s only later in life that the significance of such memories becomes clear, overshadowing past uncertainties. Despite safer career paths, Ross chose to deeply explore and innovate in the craft of making Pinot Noir, striving to achieve the distinctiveness of celebrated Burgundy wines.

During the peak of the harvest season in 2006, Ross’s mother, Diane Cobb, passed away. In remembrance, Ross and his father created a special wine from the original vines she had lovingly chosen, planted, and named it in her honor.

On days when the sun casts a warm golden light over the nearby Pacific Ocean, Ross is often reminded of his mother’s valorous spirit. As a young man overwhelmed by the task of vineyard work, her example of courage profoundly influenced him. Her fearlessness pushed him to take bold steps, including making a significant decision to no longer sell grapes from her cherished plot to another winery. Instead, he chose to craft wine from the Pinot Noir vines she established, dedicating it to her memory and continuing her legacy of boldly embracing life’s challenges.

Lineup of 2021 Cobb Pinot Noir wines

2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: Composed entirely of Pinot Noir. This wine presents tantalizing flavors of mulberry coulis and a hint of cinnamon alongside raspberry cobbler, mingled with complex notes of broken earth and a radiantly vibrant essence.

2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block” Chardonnay

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd, and hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality with a nimble body with a hint of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard is named after Joann, the matriarch of the family that owns it and a friend of Ross Cobb. She adored Chardonnay wine and had the opportunity to taste the first vintage shortly before her passing.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. An exuberant nose of baking spices, black raspberry scones, and candied violets paired with a grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate, encapsulating an overall sprightly quality.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. This wine beautifully captures aromas of lavender, fresh sage, and rose oil, combined with pristine red fruits. The palate is delicately structured, showcasing immense finesse.

2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aroma is compelling and rich, featuring a complex mix of black and blue fruits with layers of wild herbs and sweet tobacco leaf. The body is broad, complemented by crisp acidity. This vineyard is managed by Paul Ardzrooni, a fourth-generation grower, who oversees the vineyard management for all the vineyards from which Ross Cobb sources fruit.

August 26, 2024 Wine

Renowned Winemaker Behind Famous Brands Launches His Own Pinot Noir Collection

Coastlands Vineyard

She epitomized resilience, liberty, and effortless charm, as the sunlight caught the nuances of her hair when she worked the soil planting various selections of the obscure Pinot Noir clones. Unlike its robust counterpart, the Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir crafted more delicate wines and was lesser-known during that era. Nevertheless, she was not one to walk the well-trodden path. Her adventures were many: from designing surfboards for Hobie in the 1950s to piloting aircraft for swordfish spotting, and serving as the art director for Practical Vineyard and Winery magazine for 25 years. She and her husband chose to carve their unique path on their property along the Sonoma Coast in California, situated just three miles from the Pacific Ocean.

In 1989, they embarked on a new adventure, planting a vineyard of Pinot Noir alongside her marine biologist husband, preempting the Pinot Noir trend which later captivated premium wine enthusiasts with its delicate structure and captivating aroma. They nestled their vineyard amid a bay laurel grove, crowned by an ancient oak which bore the inscription ‘1906’, likely a tribute to the monumental San Francisco earthquake of the same year.

Their son Ross also contributed to the vineyard during his college years to support his expenses, despite dreaming of a career in music. He played in a band while studying agroecology at the University of Santa Cruz, emphasizing soil science, with no initial aspirations of winemaking or inheriting the vineyard. This small acreage held approximately one and a half acres of meticulously chosen Pinot Noir clones that grew on their own roots, symbolizing a true labor of love.

At a pivotal moment in his life, Ross chose the path of not only working in vineyards but also delving deep into the art of winemaking. His journey led him to collaborate with distinguished wine producers across Sonoma, ranging from expansive to modest operations, which enriched his experience with diverse styles and varietals. His passion eventually focused on crafting small-batch, site-specific Pinot Noir under his own brand, Cobb Wines.

Ross Cobb also harbors a deep appreciation for music, boasting a collection of approximately 8,000 vinyl records—though he’s stopped counting. These records are kept in no particular order, allowing Ross the pleasure of choosing randomly, which mirrors different periods of his musical taste. Some are cherished gifts from individuals needing to off-load their collection, representing his belief that everything has value if one remains open to it.

Similarly, Ross’s approach to wine was initially characterized by a thirst for diverse experiences. His inaugural venture in the wine industry was setting up the first soil lab at Ferrari-Carano in 1994, an enlightening experience in crafting high-end wine at a significant scale. His quest for varied experiences took him to Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz, where he worked under Randall Grahm—a pioneer of Rhône grape varietals in California. Working in these contrasting environments, from the large-scale Ferrari-Carano to the smaller scale Bonny Doon, immensely broadened his knowledge and understanding of winemaking.

He started his career with notable Pinot Noir producers in Sonoma Coast, first at Williams Selyem as a viticulturist and enologist, then moving on to become associate winemaker at Flowers Winery under the guidance of Hugh Chappelle. After some time, Ross became the head winemaker before transitioning to Hirsch Vineyards, where he played a key role in launching their own label, thanks to his established connection with the vineyard’s owner, David Hirsch. He remained the head winemaker until his transition was succeeded by Jasmine Hirsch.

Budbreak at Doc’s Vineyard which is next to Cobbs’ Coastland Vineyard

Simultaneously, Ross’s journey was paralleled by his parents who began to market a special block of Pinot Noir grapes to Burt Williams, co-founder of Williams Selyem, planted in 1989. On visiting the family’s small vineyard to sample different Pinot Noir clones, the clone Jackson 16, purportedly identified in California during the late 1800s, was chosen by Burt Williams for its superior taste, leading to an expansion in their vineyard to include more of the Jackson 16 clone. This expansion added another 12.5 acres, totaling 14 acres dedicated to cultivating this particular clone, hence fortifying their status as suppliers of high-quality Sonoma Pinot Noir.

Remarkably, the vines originally planted in 1989 are still thriving without the need for irrigation for about 25 years.

Burgundy vineyards

Ross has always had an eclectic taste in music, drawn to anything that resonates with him. However, his approach to wine is more discerning. Having formerly juggled winemaking with a day job, he produced small quantities of wine from his family’s land. When he transitioned to full-time winemaking under his family’s brand, he immersed himself in the intricacies of each small section of their vineyards. Inspired by elite Burgundy vintners, who skillfully conveyed a “sense of place” in their wines, Ross found himself frequently visiting Burgundy. Despite strained finances, he traveled, armed only with a backpack, to meet with renowned wine producers, trading insights on superb California Pinot Noir in exchange for their centuries-spanning wisdom.

Ross visited Burgundy 14 times, despite suggestions to explore other regions, captivated by the nuanced expression of tiny vineyard segments in Burgundy’s wines. Eager to mirror this precise portrayal of locality using his family’s vineyards and leveraging Pinot Noir’s natural proclivity for expressing terroir, he also began sourcing from additional vineyard locations.

Coastlands Vineyard

Ross’s family owns Coastlands Vineyard where a unique bottling is done using grapes from his mother’s initial plantings. They experiment with the Pinot Noir clone, Jackson 16, which was praised by his parents and the renowned Burt Williams for its aromatic and flavor profiles and its potential resistance to phylloxera. This pest once wreaked havoc in Europe’s vineyards, and Ross maintains that grafting European vines onto American rootstock is typically the best defense. Unlike others, their vineyard’s Pinot Noir is planted on its native roots, adding to its uniqueness.

Ross takes specific precautions against phylloxera, benefiting from the vineyard’s isolated location, surrounded by only two other vineyards, none of which are affected by the pest. Should the Jackson 16 clone prove resistant, Ross contemplates transitioning all his vineyards to own-rooted vines, a project potentially for his daughter, now 15, to continue, possibly leading to a major viticultural breakthrough.

Reflecting on his youth, Ross recalls the impactful moments of watching his adventurous mother plant vines with his father. At the time, as a college student uncertain about his future, he didn’t fully appreciate those moments. As life progresses, such memories gain significance, outlasting more temporary concerns. Despite a possibly safer career path in winemaking, Ross chose to deeper explore and innovate in crafting exceptional Pinot Noir, inspired by the renowned wines of Burgundy.

During the peak of the 2006 harvest season, Ross’s mother, Diane Cobb, sadly passed away. In her honor, Ross and his father chose to dedicate a special wine from the original block of vines she had personally planted and named it after her. On days when the sun casts a warm golden light over the nearby Pacific Ocean, Ross fondly remembers his mother as one of the most courageous people he’s ever known. His mother’s bold spirit deeply influenced him during his early years, encouraging him to embrace risks and make significant life decisions. This led him to stop selling the grapes from his mother’s unique vine plot to other wineries, despite the financial security it provided. He chose instead to produce his own wine from this cherished Pinot Noir plot, naming it in memory of his mother, a tribute to her formidable character that forever changed his outlook on life.

2021 Cobb, Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: This wine features 100% Pinot Noir, boasting tantalizing flavors of mulberry coulis and a hint of cinnamon along with raspberry cobbler, combined with rich notes of fragmented earth and an invigorating overall freshness.

2021 Cobb, “Diane Cobb,” Coastlands Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. The aromas are simply scintillating on this beauty with an intense minerality and oyster shell notes fleshed out by deep red fruit flavors of cherry sauce balanced by higher-tone notes of cranberries with a long, expressive finish.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block” Chardonnay

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard “Joann’s Block,” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Chardonnay. A dazzling nose of golden apples, lemon curd, and a hint of hazelnut with crisp acidity highlighted by notes of stony minerality. It offers a nimble body with a touch of richness. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard honors Ross Cobb’s neighbor and friend, Joann, who adored Chardonnay wine. She had the privilege of tasting the inaugural vintage of this wine shortly before her demise.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. An exuberant nose with baking spices, black raspberry scones, and candied violets, accompanied by a grounding note of tree bark and a touch of fleshy fruit on the palate, imparting an overall sprightly quality.

2021 Cobb, Doc’s Ranch Vineyard – Swan & Calera Selection, Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A wine that precisely expresses pretty notes of lavender, fresh sage and rose oil with pristine red fruit on the delicately structured palate that expresses so much finesse.

2021 Cobb, Wendling Vineyard, Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, California: 100% Pinot Noir. A dark, brooding nose that is very intriguing with layers of black and blue fruit layered with wild herbs and sweet tobacco leaf with a broad body and crisp acidity. This vineyard is owned by fourth-generation grower Paul Ardzrooni, who runs the vineyard management company that Ross Cobb uses for all the vineyards where he sources fruit.

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August 25, 2024 Wine

Copart CEO Joins the Fray as Latest Bidder in Vintage Wine Estates Bankruptcy Auction

The CEO of a prominent car salvage empire, which started in North Bay, made a substantial offer of $35 million on Friday for two renowned wineries in Napa Valley. These wineries, part of the assets of Vintage Wine Estates, are due for sale in a Bankruptcy Court next month.

Jayson “Jay” Adair, from Dallas and CEO of Adair Winery Inc., placed the multi-million dollar bid for the Clos Pegase and Girard wineries, as per a court filing. His company was one of three leading new bidders targeting assets, including brands and production facilities, of the Santa Rosa-based portfolio that declared Chapter 11 bankruptcy on July 24.

The following are other preliminary bidders from the same day:

— A company from South Carolina, Vino.com LLC, operating under the name Total Beverage Solution, offered $6.03 million for the wine brands Layer Cake, Tamarack, and Cartlidge & Browne.

Total Beverage Solution is planning to acquire 168,764 cases of Layer Cake, Cartlidge & Browne and Tamarack bottled wine, with a value of $6.03 million.

Bartow Ethanol of Florida LLC, a contract distiller, has offered $6.25 million to purchase Meier’s Wine Cellars Inc., a historic and leading winery based in Cincinnati, Ohio.

These proposals come after the court approved two other bids on Tuesday for six additional assets: Ace Cider, Sonoma Coast Vineyards, Cosentino, Swanson, Bar Dog, and Cherry Pie.

A Bankruptcy Court hearing concerning the new offers is scheduled for August 29.

There’s a Sept. 6 deadline for qualified bids to be submitted ahead of a Sept. 17 auction and Sept. 24 hearing to consider the winning bids.

Jeff Quackenbush covers wine, construction and real estate. Reach him at jquackenbush@busjrnl.com or 707-521-4256.

August 24, 2024 Wine

Unveiling the World’s Best Tequila: Winners of the 2024 International Wine & Spirit Competition

1800 Milenio Extra Añejo Tequila.

If it feels like tequila-based drinks are popping up on cocktail lists everywhere, rest assured, you’re not hallucinating. Tequila, a spirit once consigned to shooters and, even worse, hangovers, is suddenly everyone’s favorite spirit.

As the second most popular spirit in America, only vodka has a larger share; tequila is having its long overdue moment in the spotlight. Much like bourbon, another North American original that has recently been rediscovered by drinkers, a big reason that tequila is booming is the emergence of a plethora of high-quality brands on the market.

These premium and ultra-premium tequilas from Mexico have completely transformed how people view tequila. While it still nicely fits into the party drink category, it is quickly gathering a wide array of fans as an excellent sipping liquor and the perfect base for a memorable cocktail.

The International Wine & Spirits Competition, a venerable and renowned global event, recently announced the winners of its 2024 competition. This prestigious contest, held every year in London, utilizes a blind taste-testing method to score up to 100 points. This year, out of thousands of entries, 107 bottles, including two exceptional tequilas, achieved the Gold Outstanding Medal by scoring 98 points or more. These top-scoring tequilas are both widely available for purchase.

1800 Milenio Extra Añejo Tequila

This exceptional tequila first came into production in 2000 and has been impressing judges and tequila enthusiasts regularly with its releases. Produced at the historic La Rojeña Distillery in Jalisco, Mexico’s tequila heartland, it shares its birthplace with other famous brands like Jose Cuervo and Gran Centenario. Launched in 1975, 1800 Tequila was among the pioneers in crafting premium tequilas, effectively transforming global perceptions of the spirit. The 1800 Milenio Extra Añjeo, their flagship product, is crafted from 100% blue Weber agave, which is carefully grown and harvested at the peak of maturity on family-owned estates in Tequila, Mexico. It undergoes a meticulous and prolonged aging process to achieve its distinctive quality.

After a two-year aging process in oak barrels, the beverage was further refined in French Oak Cognac barrels for a brief period, achieving a famously smooth and well-balanced flavor profile. Currently, it is available for purchase at about $249 per bottle. You can buy it here.

The judging panel commented, “Luscious stone fruit and red apple aromas lead to a perfect mix of alcohol and sweetness in taste. The experience is enriched with a profound mouthfeel and a spicy finish that lingers.”

Lunazul Primero Humosa Blanco Tequila.

Lunazul Primero Humoso Blanco Tequila

When Lunazul Tequila was launched in 2004, it was met with great anticipation. Established by Francisco Beckmann, who comes from the longest-standing tequila-producing lineage in Mexico, his goal was to craft premium, small-batch tequilas that would reveal the intricate tastes of a frequently misunderstood spirit.

To do this, Beckmann established Tierra de Agaves, a boutique distillery nestled within the expanse of the Beckmann family’s vast agave fields, one of the globe’s largest. The distillery prides itself on using only ingredients harvested from their lands, producing tequilas that have consistently won accolades for their robust taste profiles.

Lunazul Primero Humoso Blanco Tequila stands out by combining the smokiness typical of Mezcal with the smooth finish characteristic of a classic Blanco. This is epitomized by its name “humoso”, which translates to ‘smoky’ in Spanish.

This exceptional smoked tequila, crafted using a combination of mesquite wood-smoked agave and fresh blue Weber Agave, offers a distinct taste. Ideal for sipping neat or as a versatile base for various cocktails, it is available at a retail price of $29.99. You can purchase it here.

Here is what the judges had to say about it: “Fresh grass and peppermint creaminess with a whisper of smoke. Rounded and earthy, showcasing nuances of root with tropical and citrus aromatics. Smoothly rounded and balanced with vibrant fruitiness and earthy spices, revealing balsamic and citrus on the lingering finish.”

Follow here for the most up to date information about the ever changing beer, wine, and spirits industry.

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August 23, 2024 Wine

Top Wine Chillers and Buckets Endorsed by Expert Sommeliers and Experienced Hosts

We regularly reach out to stylish individuals with unique, discerning tastes to share the products they truly love owning. Explore more about these cool individuals here.

We regularly reach out to stylish individuals with unique, discerning tastes to share the products they truly love owning. Explore more about these cool individuals here.

Wine buckets and chillers are essential for entertaining in the warmer months. The most effective wine chillers and buckets work well both outdoors and inside, maintaining your wine at the ideal temperature for extended durations. To ensure your whites and Champagnes cool adequately, start the chilling process at least 30 minutes prior to serving.

When selecting a wine chiller or bucket, consider the materials and functionalities that will most efficiently cool your beverages. Stainless steel offers longevity, superior insulation, and ease of cleaning, though it tends to show fingerprints. Ceramic options exude elegance but can be hefty and delicate. Plastic models are affordable and light but the quality can be inconsistent. Marble provides a naturally cool surface and sustains chilly temperatures effectively.

I consulted with event planners, restaurant staff, sommeliers, and experienced hosts to gather their recommendations on wine bags, sleeves, chillers, and buckets. For those interested in additional options for keeping your wine cool, we also offer a guide to the best wine coolers and refrigerators.

This fashionable bag is endorsed by Chloe Grigri, the proprietor of the Good King Tavern in Philadelphia, who finds it perfect for BYOB occasions. Its compact size fits small spaces and is easy to carry. “These are popular in France as they are not too bulky and manage condensation well,” she comments. Grigri suggests filling the bag with ice to maintain optimal chillness, though she cautions, “Finish the wine before the ice melts.”

Matt Whitney, a wine director at Sunny’s in Miami, shares his technique for using the wine bag. “Place the bottle inside before adding lots of ice and a little water,” he instructs. “This prevents the bottle from resting unevenly on hard ice, ensuring stability and coolness.” Whitney prefers this simple, portable, and easy-to-clean system for casual gatherings, contrasting with the elegant wine buckets used in Sunny’s dining room.

According to William Eccleston, wine director at Panorama Wine Bar, these plastic wine bags are affordable, durable, compact, and easy to transport. While visiting St. Martin, he noticed their use in cafés and luxury resorts, where they were filled with ice and premium dry rosé bottles. Appreciating their practicality and style, Eccleston introduced a similar, branded ice wine bag at Panorama to efficiently use space on diners’ tables. He keeps these gel-lined bags in the freezer, using them to cool bottles of red wine from room temperature to cellar temperature within approximately 20 minutes.

If you find yourself an impromptu host and need wine chilled quickly, this Vacu Vin sleeve chills a bottle in 15 minutes, no messy ice bath needed. Just keep the sleeve in the freezer ahead of time for at least six hours, then take it out and put the wine bottle in it. CEO of The Hue Society and frequent traveling sommelier Tahiirah Habibi says the wine chiller sleeve has revolutionized her on-the-go wine experience: “Its portability, freezing speed, and elegant bottle look changed the game.” Habibi was originally drawn to its minimalist design and appreciates how well it adapted to her work style.

This CB2 Levanto marble wine chiller is a dramatic display piece. Nicole Cole, CEO and principal designer at Vestige Home, constantly seeks out unique accessories and natural materials and recommends this one because “the footed base on this particular chiller is a real standout feature. I love that it adds height to your tablescape and a more casual, earthy element through the perfectly imperfect stone,” Cole says.

D’Onna Stubblefield also loves this chiller, which fits in just as well at Bloomsday in Philadelphia, where she is a beverage director, as in her home. “I’ve used my chiller for other items like fresh-cut flowers or to store kitchen utensils,” she says. “Even when I’m not chilling my wine, it still makes for a very beautiful addition to my kitchen.”

This Crate & Barrel wine chiller has a classic look and feel that can work with any kitchen style. Like Stubblefield, Wine Convo Generator author Chasity Cooper also uses her marble wine chiller as a vase and even a utensil holder. Cooper likes wine chillers that are functional and ornamental and won’t break the bank. This one doesn’t take up a lot of space and prevents pesky bottle rings that chilled bottles can leave behind on a table, and “it blends in well with other appliances and décor.”

Tablecraft’s heavy-duty marble wine chiller eliminates the need for ice, chills very quickly, and stays cold for a long time. General manager Lawrence Gardner uses this at The Prime Rib in Philadelphia to provide guests with an elegant fine-dining experience. “Guests want to feel like they are dining in luxury, so marble is an important material to have throughout the restaurant, including countertops, tables, and bar tops, and, in this case, our wine cooler,” says Gardner.

Jordanne Pascual-Cancel, wine and service manager at New York restaurant Principe, appreciates the Wine Enthusiast bucket for its durability and ease of cleaning. It comes equipped with a table attachment that secures the wine bucket, conserves valuable table space, and prevents condensation from dripping onto the table. She advises submerging a wine bottle in a mix of ice and cold water immediately after opening it to ensure more even cooling and to prevent the bottle from tipping over,” shares Pascual-Cancel.

Cookbook author and restaurant consultant Nicole A. Taylor opts for a yellow plastic and vinyl bucket during small gatherings as it negates the need for frequent trips to the mini-fridge. It’s well-insulated with a secure top, metal knob and handle, and maintains ice cold for three to five hours. “The vibrant design and color enhance the playful decor of my vacation home in Athens, Georgia, and I have one in my Bed-Stuy apartment as well,” Taylor mentions.

This shatterproof resin material wine tub, designed to mimic alabaster with its pearly white and subtle swirls, is not only sleek but also has practical handling with its cutout features and can hold up to eight bottles. Mural City Cellars co-owner Francesca Galarus uses the lightweight tub for serving numerous guests nightly, needing to change the bottles frequently but the ice only once per shift. “It’s perfect for private-event tastings and farmer’s market setups,” she comments.

This Yeti wine chiller isn’t just practical for outdoor enthusiasts; wine experts also appreciate its extra-durable features. The stainless-steel double-wall insulation maintains a consistent temperature, the robust structure prevents damage, and the non-slip silicone base allows placement on various surfaces (rocks, sand, dirt, grass, etc.) without concern for tipping. “It holds temperature better than any other on the market that I have seen,” Terence Lewis, the beverage director at Safran Turney Hospitality, remarks. “This will hold a slightly chilled red as opposed to a cooler with ice that will actively chill the red further.”

Yeti products are recognized for their durability, attracting committed fans like Liz Einhorn, founder and CEO of Experience Threee, who has been a customer for over ten years. This wine chiller has become her preferred choice for BYOB dining in Philadelphia. She even selects wines based on their fitting in this chiller. It is compact, sturdy, and leak-proof. “I also love to give it as a gift. You can customize the exterior, and it’s something people will actually use and appreciate,” Einhorn states.

Event producer Tini Cochran from Tini Inc. recommends the Togosa, which not only keeps wine and cocktails chilled but also can enliven your tablescapes or enhance service by facilitating guests’ easy access to their drinks. She often employs this dual-purpose wine chiller and pitcher in Texas and New Orleans, where she notes, “it keeps the drinks cold and my stuff dry,” despite intense heat waves and condensation. The Togosa, with triple insulation like a thermos, retains temperatures for up to 48 hours (simply pre-chill your bottle), includes a lockable lid to secure a wine bottle while serving, and comes with a leakproof strainer attachment for portable drinks holding up to 49 ounces of liquid. “The fun colors enhance different décor styles, but it’s my secret weapon for keeping the wine ice cold before serving in glasses at my park dinners or beach outings, rather than using a bulky cooler.”

Alex Cahanap, founder and creative director of Citrine Tablescapes, favors this stainless-steel Society6 wine chiller, particularly because it doubles as both a wine chiller and décor at her BYOB dinner parties and events. She admires the distinctive wraparound designs created by independent artists and the chiller’s ability to maintain wine cool for hours (she places the wine chiller in the freezer for about 30 minutes before use). “They are the epitome of marrying practicality with a splash of artistic flair,” she comments.

This Champagne cooler from Couzon presents a more refined option for those who frequently host gatherings, also serving as an ideal gift for special occasions. It accommodates the largest of Champagne bottles, white wine bottles, and ample ice. Rebecca Hopkins, a wine marketer and the founder of A Balanced Glass, came across this cooler at a social event where magnums of wine were being served. According to Hopkins, its 18/10 stainless-steel composition and double-wall insulation signify superior construction quality, ensuring excellent temperature maintenance and reduced table condensation. For any remaining moisture, she suggests, “Place a service napkin or a felt coaster underneath the bucket to absorb condensation and safeguard the table surface.”

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The Strategist aims to highlight useful, expert suggestions for products to purchase across the expansive e-commerce landscape. Each product is chosen independently by our editors, whom you can learn about here. We update links whenever possible, but please note that deals may end and all prices can change.

August 22, 2024 Wine
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