Size as needed (160 dpi, 25p x 33p), Philip Brooker color illustration of people looking at wine list as waiter with bottles stands in background. (The Miami Herald/Tribune News Service via Getty Images)

The majority of wine lists I encounter are quite inadequate. Often, large restaurant chains and hotels feature core lists that require branches to carry certain bottles everywhere. This restricts a wine director’s ability to introduce new selections that might better complement the menu or locale.

In my recent move to Miami, I was intrigued by how sommelier Jorge Mendoza crafts a truly international wine list at Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne Miami. Highlights from my latest visit include Pierre Péters Grand Cru Champagne and El Sueño de la Alondra 2021 from Ribera del Duero. I was particularly impressed with the extensive variety in the hotel’s selection in a city often limited to more typical offerings.

All responses have been edited and condensed for clarity.

Liza B. Zimmerman (L.B.Z.): How do you approach a new wine list for a new restaurant menu?

Jorge Mendoza is the sommelier at the Ritz-Carlton Key Biscayne.

Jorge Mendoza (J.M.): When approaching a wine list for a new restaurant, I start with an open mind and a deep understanding of the chef’s cuisine and signature flavors. It’s essential to stay in tune with both local preferences and global trends. Every community has its flavor profile, and knowing what excites the local palate allows me to craft a wine list that’s not only relevant and dynamic, but also makes good business sense.

L.B.Z.: Are there set, core wines, that you always add to a restaurant list such as Champagne or Burgundy?

J.M.: Absolutely—Champagne is a must. As the saying goes, “When in doubt, Champagne.” Burgundy is another favorite, especially for those who appreciate its depth and complexity. I also have a soft spot for Riesling as well, which pairs beautifully with many dishes here in Miami. Spanish wines, with their great variety and value, often make the cut, as do Italian white wines, which offer a delightful range of flavor profiles.

Arial view of Key Biscayne Bay overlooking Miami Downtown

L.B.Z.: Do you have to carry some of the wines that the other Ritz properties carry?

J.M.: Yes, there are certain wines that you will find across all our properties. These selections reflect the hotel’s commitment to offering a consistent wine experience.

L.B.Z.: Is there a set number of wines by the glass that you like to offer in a restaurant?

J.M.: We typically offer six reds, six whites, four sparkling wines, and one or two rosés by the glass. Occasionally, we introduce a “Sommelier Selection” that features a lesser-known wine to keep the selection fresh and exciting, in line with current market trends.

The dining room at Lightkeepers.

L.B.Z.: How often do the wine by-the-glass (btg) and by-the-bottle (btb) offerings change?

The selections of btg often change with the seasons or each year, and btb options might shift as frequently as every week. At times, my inventory includes only a limited number of a specific wine, and once those are sold, I need to update our offerings—sometimes this happens daily!

L.B.Z.: When it comes to crafting the wine list, how do you balance considerations like food pairings, pricing, or customer interests? Additionally, do you prioritize the preferences of locals over tourists, or how do you cater to both groups?

J.M.: Food pairings play an essential role in the development of a wine list, yet the foremost concern is always the quality of the wine. While prices are factored into the decision-making process, the primary focus is on delivering outstanding value with the wines. We strive to serve a diverse clientele, be they local patrons or out-of-town visitors.

L.B.Z.: How do wine preferences of different types of guests differ?

Preferences do vary based on background, but ultimately, everyone is looking for a wine with character that enhances their dining experience.

L.B.Z.: How did your wine list change when you switched from an Italian restaurant concept to Lightkeepers? This was a change that happened in 2017.

Oysters in Key Biscayne.

J.M.: The shift was significant—Italian wines went from dominating 60 percent of the list to making up just around 10 percent. We also streamlined the selection, cutting the number of offerings in half.

L.B.Z.: How do you source allocated wines?

J.M.: Building and maintaining relationships is key. I make a point of attending fairs, visiting vineyards, and participating in tastings whenever possible. Meeting winemakers and vignerons personally help establish the connections necessary to source these exclusive wines.

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