Nope, orange wine is not made with oranges. No, it isn’t always orange in color. Sorry, it doesn’t really taste like oranges, either.
So what exactly is orange wine? And why do some people loathe it?
Also known as skin-contact white wine or “amber wine,” orange wine is a style developed thousands of years ago in Georgia, a small country at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.
Believed to be the birthplace of wine, Georgia has been fermenting grapes for at least 6,000 years and continues to produce orange wine today.
While most white wine is made by separating the juice from the skins before fermentation, Georgians ferment the juice and skins in an underground clay vessel called a Qvevri.
After extended aging and oxygen exposure, the wine emerges a deep amber color, with intense aromas, healthy tannins, and flavors that range from nuts to herbs, honey, bruised apple, sour bread dough, candied orange rind, and more.
A wine style produced around the globe, orange wine began cropping up in the U.S. around 2010 and has since become a regular part of the American wine repertoire.
Often produced with native yeast (no inoculation) and little additives like sulfur, many orange wines fit neatly into the “natural wine” category — another popular wine segment. Especially appealing among younger, open-minded wine drinkers in search of something unique, both orange and natural wines appear to be here to stay.
But not everyone is a fan of these unconventional, sometimes funky, hard-to-wrap-your-head-around wines — especially in Wine Country.
DC Looney, co-owner of The Punchdown wine shop in Sebastopol and Oakland, was one of the first people to start selling orange wines in the Bay Area.
“People who are trained in wine or work in the industry can be a little set in their way. “They know what Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are supposed to taste like,” he said. “But I grew up in the Midwest not drinking any wine. I think that’s why I’ve been open-minded about orange wines since the beginning.”
In Oakland, Looney said his customers tend to be more willing to give orange wines a go. In Sebastopol, it can be more challenging to get people on board.
“We named our orange wine flight the ‘Orange Adventure,’ because it aligns with our goal to introduce and inspire people to wine styles that may be new or different,” said Looney. “For me, part of the fun of wine is watching people try new things and seeing when they click.”
While traditional orange wines tend to be rich and opulent in style, a growing number of California winemakers are producing versions in a fresher, more restrained style.
Instead of undergoing extended maceration, these wines have spent just hours or a few days mingling with the skins. They’re also being made with varietals that lean toward acid and aromatics, for a combo that’s quickly attracting a whole new audience to orange wines.
“When a winemaker adds a little bit of an aromatic grape to an orange wine, it can bring out these tropical, floral, fruity aromas and it ends up smelling like a fresh bouquet of flowers,” said Looney. “Our most popular skin-fermented white by far (from Catch and Release) has Riesling and Gewurztraminer in it. It’s so popular, I can’t take it off the list.”
Ryan Miller, co-owner of The Redwood wine bar and bottle shop in Sebastopol, said lighter-style orange wines have a loyal following among his customers, especially the younger set who tend to order them by the glass.
“We get a lot of curious wine drinkers through our doors who want to see what the buzz is around macerated white wines,” he said. “For our clientele, sales of skin-contact wine are steady and fairly strong.”
For Miller, lighter-style orange wines are perfect for the warmer months when people are seeking something “fresh” and “food-friendly.” Come fall, however, he admits he has a penchant for the richer style.
“Some of the longer-macerated orange wines are more structured and take on these autumnal, nutty, oxidative qualities,” he said. “That’s what I enjoy when the temperatures start to drop.”
Orange wine curious? Here are some of our favorite skin-contact wines with plenty of vim and vigor.
Catch & Release 2023 Block Party, California ($28)
50% Pinot Gris, 30% Riesling, 20% Gewurztraminer
Deeply tropical and inherently aromatic, this wine holds all the niceties of skin maceration without losing freshness. Tension is brought about by ripeness and lift on the palate without losing the operative of being delicious.
catchandreleasewines.com (also available at The Punchdown in Sebastopol)
Two Shepherds 2022 Trousseau Gris, Russian River Valley ($30)
“Light orange wine or complex rosé? You decide,” says the back label of this delightful Trousseau Gris from 45-year-old vines in the Russian River Valley. Light, fresh and zippy with notes of white peach, white tea and pink grapefruit.
P.S. Also worthy is Two Shepherds 2023 Natty Pets, a delicious, sparkling orange wine in a can. #truestory
twoshepherds.com
Les Lunes 2023 Populis Macerate White, California ($24)
This fresh, gulpable orange wine combines Picpoul, Albarino, Grenache Blanc, Ribolla Gialla, and Chardonnay for summer in a glass. Orange muscat adds a fresh blossom bouquet. lesluneswine.com
Crutchfield 2022 Skin-Contact Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg ($30)
From winemaker Matt Crutchfield comes delicious skin-contact Chenin Blanc from Clarksburg. Showing the savory side of Chenin with orange pith, lemongrass, chamomile, button mushrooms and autumnal flavors. The 2023 vintage will be available this fall. mattcrutchfieldwines.com
Fres. Co 2023 Fire Fuego Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley ($36)
A thrilling carbonic Sauvignon Blanc from winemaker Jack Sporer, this vibrant orange wine shows aromas of grapefruit and apricot, with light grip on the finish. No sulfur added. fresh.wine
You can reach Staff Writer Sarah Doyle at 707-521-5478 or sarah.doyle@pressdemocrat.com. Follow Sarah on Instagram at @whiskymuse.
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