The esteemed winery from Tuscany, Grattamacco, recently presented a vertical tasting of their Super Tuscan red wines, highlighting some lesser-known vintages that distinguished themselves with their sophistication.
The lighthouse on Elba Island, near the Maremma coast where Bolgheri is situated, shines light on the rich beauty of the Maremma area.
The 2008 growing season in Bolgheri, a renowned region in Tuscany, Italy, brought immense satisfaction to the head winemaker, Luca Marrone, marking a stark contrast to his challenging first experience in 2003 at Grattamacco, a trailblazer in Super Tuscan wines. The scorching temperatures of 2003, unusual for European vintners at the time, provided a tough start for him. However, this challenge equipped him well for future uncertainties in winemaking. The year 2013, with its moderate climate, offered another boon for Luca, as the wines from this period displayed an exceptional purity and vibrancy, maturing beautifully, with the 2008 vintage impressing significantly 16 years later.
In Luca’s view, both the 2008 and 2013 vintages did not initially receive the acclaim they deserved, but tasting them now confirms their exceptional qualities.
Chef winemaker Luca Marrone
Luca Marrone, who was trained by Giulio Gambelli—an expert of the Sangiovese grape with a profound understanding applicable across other varieties—learned the importance of subtlety in winemaking. Gambelli taught that the true quality of a wine shouldn’t be overshadowed by raw power, but should strive for a clarity that suggested it had nothing to conceal.
“In nature, you always have the answer,” Gambelli would often say to Luca, especially when a wine seemed lacking.
Particularly, the 2008 and 2013 vintages represented the type of pure expressions Gambelli admired, where even without aggressive ripeness or strong structure, they remained underrated due to their lack of immediate impact upon release, which often generates much excitement and discussion.
Punching down the grape skins in the Grattamacco winery
In the case of 2013, Luca thought there was too little structure, and despite being overtly enthusiastic about the remarkable purity of fruit, for balance, he needed to give the wines a small amount of tannic structure. Now, there are a few ways a winemaker can add tannins to the wines, but when it came to Luca’s choice, he first thought about what Gambelli said about looking to nature when a winemaker is trying to balance the wine. And so, Luca used a method based on how the Ripasso wines are made in the prestigious Italian wine area of Valpolicella, which is in the Veneto region.
The Ripasso wines use a double fermentation technique where the first fermentation turns the grapes into wine. Then, that wine is placed through a second fermentation process that is activated by adding skins from previous wine production. But instead of using previously fermented skins, Luca sacrificed some of his top-quality grapes to add a multifaceted structure to his 2013 wines, and the finished product is outstanding.
White clay in Grattamacco vineyards
Grattamacco is celebrated for its vineyards situated atop the 330-foot Grattamacco Hill, characterized by heavily clay-laden soil. This clay is particularly advantageous in hot vintages due to its capacity to retain moisture, additionally imparting a unique character to Grattamacco wines. This distinctiveness was highlighted in a three-year research study at U.C. Davis, which demonstrated that grapes from Grattamacco exhibited marked differences when contrasted with those from other leading producers in Bolgheri.
Enhancing their extraordinary terroir, Grattamacco acquired an additional plot named Casa Vecchia, situated 325 feet above Grattamacco Hill, featuring its own microclimate. Planted in 1998, this 25-acre vineyard is bordered by forests and was among the initial undertakings in this location, known for yielding grapes of balanced quality, exceptional freshness, and aromatic complexity. While other top winemakers in Bolgheri have also started planting in this region, space is now at a premium, with Grattamacco having planted the majority of vines in this secluded area.
Grattamacco vineyards claim some of the loftiest elevations in Bolgheri.
As the vines of Casa Vecchia have matured, they have increasingly contributed to their premier red wine, the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, enhancing its quality.
Luca discussed the unique traits of Claudio Tipa, the owner of Grattamacco, as a visionary leader who ventures to forge new paths and aim for greater excellence in quality. He honors the principles set by the estate’s original owner, Piermario Meletti Cavallari, ensuring his values remain intact. When Piermario approached retirement with no direct heir for Grattamacco, he opted to lease it to Claudio for ten years in 2002, due to his profound interest in the vineyard. Piermario, observing Claudio’s zeal and the remarkable wines produced under his stewardship, decided to sell the estate to him five years early, confident that Claudio was the perfect custodian for his legacy.
Claudio Tipa’s commitment involves practicing organic and biodynamic viticulture, selecting exceptional sites, and prioritizing quality over quantity to enhance good vintages. He ensures the wines remain fresh and elegant, even when market trends favor robust, overripe variants. Under his guidance, Luca is empowered to fulfill the founding owner’s vision. It’s notably exceptional for Claudio to passionately maintain someone else’s legacy, recognizing that Grattamacco’s value surpasses individual achievements. This perspective highlights Claudio’s understanding of the importance of an estate that consistently produces distinguished vintages, irrespective of their initial reception.
Grattamacco vertical
1991 Grattamacco, Vino da Tavola di Castagneto, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Since the Bolgheri Rosso Superiore designation was not established until 1994, the 1991 vintage was categorized as Vino da Tavola di Castagneto. Comprising 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Sangiovese, the 1991 vintage has been resilient over 33 years, displaying remarkable freshness and complexity. It offers a nuanced array of earthy, herbal, and leather notes, alongside vibrant red cherry flavors and a saline edge. An underrated vintage that exceeds expectations.
1995 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Composed of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. This vintage counts among the best three of the 1990s, showcasing a significant allure with its aromatic presence characterized by dried flowers and a hint of incense, complemented by a richer body that delivers flavors of red cherry pie and blackberry jam. Though not surpassing the 1991, it presents a distinct character.
2008 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Made up of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. This cooler, steady vintage is often overlooked, yet it impresses with its vibrant notes of blackcurrant leaf and freshly harvested raspberries, underpinned by a subtle stony mineral quality. An underrated year that exceeds expectations.
2009 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Constituted by 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. The year was marked by a hot, dry summer, but the vineyards’ white clay, retaining adequate water from prior rainfall, aided in maintaining vine health. It offers dark, intense fruit layers intertwined with licorice and lavender sea salt, presenting a dense palate with succulent blueberry tart notes.
2012 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blending 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. Despite the heat of the season, the vineyard’s commitment to organic and biodynamic practices ensured that the wines retained their freshness and vitality, as pointed out by Luca. The flavors burst with opulent mulberry compote and blackberry scones, enriched by fresh tarragon, offering a luxurious texture balanced by invigorating acidity.
2013 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. This cooler vintage, often compared to 2008 for its understated excellence, exhibits a refined elegance and vibrancy with notes of red raspberries and a hint of spice along with rose oil. It features finely detailed tannins, resulting in a prolonged finish that showcases tremendous finesse. An underrated vintage that surpasses expectations.
2016 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Composed of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. Characterized by its very warm conditions, this vintage produced robust, intense wines. Despite these conditions, this wine maintains the distinctive freshness and precision of Grattamacco. It offers luxuriant flavors of black cherry cobbler and baking spices, perfectly complemented by intricate notes of asphalt and graphite alongside wild Mediterranean herbs. The texture is exceptionally smooth, and the flavor persists impressively.
2021 Grattamacco, Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri, Tuscany: Contains 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 15% Sangiovese. According to Wine Spectator, the 2021 vintage may rank as one of the finest in Tuscany’s recent history. This wine already displays exceptional quality with its enrapturing scents of smoldering earth and forest floor. This is further enriched by the sweet floral aroma of candied violets and the luxurious taste of cherries jubilee and blackberry syrup atop spice cake. The silky texture and ultra-fine tannins create a lasting finish.
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