Wine 867
Discover Your New Favorite Summer Red Wine: An Unknown Delight
Not to boast, but the red Marzemino grape is named in an eighteenth-century opera by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Let that sink in for a moment…
That’s right, in comparison to well-known bottles that remain nameless, Mozart’s mention is a far more esteemed recognition than being referenced in the angst-filled lyrics of Taylor Swift or having Drake rap a few notable lines about you.
Returning to the realm of timeless classical music, the opera Don Giovanni debuted in 1787 to wide acclaim. It’s based on a Spanish libertine named Don Juan, who travels across Europe seducing women and eliminating any man who impedes him.
He’s essentially a man devoid of ethics who meets his end at a dinner party where he descends into the inferno. However, before he’s reduced to ashes, he requests a glass of red wine by exclaiming, ‘Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzemino!’, which translates to, ‘pour the wine, the excellent Marzemino!’
Ok, so Mozart clearly had a death-row wine choice for poor old Don Giovanni, but why Marzemino and what exactly is it?
And how do you take it to another level in the warmer months when drinking red wine isn’t exactly the done thing? You chill it!
First things first – Marzemino is a red grape from the northern part of Italy, the Trentino-Alto Adige region to be precise. It used to be a key ingredient in the famous Colli Conegliano Refrontolo wines, made in the ‘Passito’ style in which the grapes are dried out in the winery to bring out their raisiny sweetness.
Nowadays, Marzemino is its own headline act and produces light, dry and juicy summery reds.
Marzemino wines carry the enticing aroma of herbal and dry notes, combined with the soft and juicy flavours of raspberry and sour cherry. These traits make them quite similar to well-known and beloved red wines like Beaujolais, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir.
Pleasingly, these red wines, including Marzemino, taste just as delightful when served chilled.
It’s not an everyday occurrence that we encounter the Marzemino grape. That’s why it’s quite fortunate that Sainsbury’s offers an exquisite Taste the Difference bottle for a modest amount of under £10. This makes it possible for us to sample this varietal without straining our wallet.
What specifically qualifies this grape as an excellent choice for chilling? Essentially, it’s the grape’s characteristics: it’s soft and fruity, possesses minimal tannins, and features high acidity. This makes the grape incredibly refreshing, especially when it is served chilled on a hot day from an ice bucket.
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A bottle of Marzemino happens to be perfect for a prevalent speed-chilling trick. This method is fairly well-known among sommeliers and is often summed up as a salted ice bath.
If you enjoy indulging in the luxuries of life, Metro’s Drinks Club is a place reserved for you.
Plunge into the world of Metro Drinks Club, represented by industry professional Rob Buckhaven. It is a space for readers to stimulate their palate with the latest developments in the beverages sphere. Whether it’s about uncovering the trend of Indian Gin or familiarizing readers with pocket-friendly Cremant that is outdoing some haute French Champagnes, this platform is a refuge for celebration-loving individuals.
Remain ahead of the game, as Rob handpicks the most trendy wines and spirits; engaging with specialists and mixologists while delving into the most recent mixtures, identifying the finest alcohol-free alternatives for those who wish to restrain, discovering optimum food combinations for your beverages, and tackling the latest TikTok topics to simplify the beverage milieu.
Can you really make cheap vodka taste expensive by putting it through a Brita filter?
What happens when you put wine in a blender?
And, truly, how should we be storing our wine?
Just half-fill a metal container large enough to hold your bottle with ice, and the other half with water and two cups of salt. Submerge the bottle up to the neck, twist and swirl the bottle for five minutes. The salt brings down the freezing point of ice because saltwater can chill and still remain a liquid.
So, if you’re planning on going somewhere hot anytime soon, or just looking to slather on the suncream out in the garden, if the weather ever turns cranks itself up, Marzemino is the red grape to be chilling down in your saltwater bath.
If it’s good enough for Mozart…
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Forecasting the Wine Cooler Market: Anticipated Sales to Reach USD 4,996.6 Million by 2033
The wine cooler market is projected to achieve a value of USD 2,790.1 million by 2023, with sales expected to rise to USD 4,996.6 million by 2033. Over the period from 2023 to 2033, the adoption of wine coolers is anticipated to progress at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 6%.
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Key Takeaways of Wine Cooler Market Study
Heightened Per Capita Consumption of Wine Sustaining Growth of Wine Cooler Market
The increase in wine consumption per person among millennials is leading to the expansion of the wine cooler market. The burgeoning hospitality industry in developing nations is driving up the demand for wine coolers.
Greater preference of consumers for better product visibility and easy maneuverability significantly contributes to this growth. The rising preference for energy-efficient wine coolers is also boosting the market. Nonetheless, the sales of brand new commercial wine coolers are hindered by the demand for pre-used Wine Freeze. Many wine coolers are not equipped with door storage or adjustable shelves, which limits their functionality.
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Key Players in the market are:
Innovation and Strategic Collaboration to Remain Pivotal for Industry Leaders
The global wine cooler market is made up of a diverse range of competitors. Prominent players in this ever-growing field, such as Robert Bosch GmbH, Siemens AG, Viking Range, LLC and Haier Group Corporation, are featured in FMI’s comprehensive study on the wine cooler market. In order to secure a firm hold on the market, these industry leaders have ramped up their Research and Development activities with the goal of introducing innovative wine coolers.
Wine coolers featuring multiple temperature zones, touchscreen panels, and custom control settings for both humidity and temperature have already made their mark on the market. In addition, industry leaders continue to forge strategic partnerships in order to bolster their presence in the market where they compete.
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Wine Cooler Market: Segmentation
The global wine cooler market is segmented in detail to cover every aspect of the market and present a complete market intelligence approach to readers.
Installation
End-use Industry
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U.S. Wine Industry Soars: $107 Billion Sales Milestone Achieved in 2023, Report Shows
U.S. Total Wine Sales in Billions $ from 2018 – 2023
Lately, the headlines about the U.S. wine industry have been rather bleak. However, a newly released report shows that total wine dollar sales were actually up in 2023, and have continued on an upward trend since 2018. Furthermore, with 11,600 wineries operating in all 50 states, a representative survey sample revealed that more than 50% had achieved their sales goals in 2023.
“Though the volume of wine shipments were down in 2023, the actual dollar sales of all wine sold in the U.S. market was up over previous years—to $107 billion,” stated Adam Beak, Managing Director and Head of the Wine & Spirits Vertical of BMO, the firm that spearheaded the report.
Given that wine dollar sales were just over $73 billion in 2018, this is an astounding increase of 46% through 2023. Though inflation and price increases play into this, it doesn’t account for all of the market growth. Instead, this report finds that U.S. consumers are continuing to drink wine in moderation and trading up.
Other key findings were that wines priced more than $10 per 750ml bottle have remained stable and are expected to grow. Indeed, nearly 30% of consumers report they purchase wine priced at $20 or more on a monthly basis, or more often.
Titled the 2024 BMO Wine Market Report, it is the first of its kind to capture 100% of wine sold in the U.S. market. Extensive data from the Bureau of Economic Analysis (BEA), the Tax & Trade Bureau (TTB) and other reputable sources were included in the final analysis. BMO plans to publish the report on an annual basis as a complimentary service to the industry.
The 34-page report includes not only market/sales data, but consumer trends, and winery insights. It was compiled and written by four authors: 1) Adam Beak of BMO; 2) Andrew Adams with Wine Business Analytics, 3) Jon Moramarco of bw166 and Gomberg-Fredrikson, and 4) Christian Miller with Wine Market Council and Full-Glass Consulting. I was able to interview the authors via phone and email.
“We wanted to do a fact-based report that captured all of the market, because not all data sources do,” explained Jon Moramarco. “We hope it gives a clear and concise view of what’s going on. Obviously the industry has work to do, but this report shows that the sky is not falling.”
Title Page of 2024 BMO Wine Market Report
Part of the difficulty in reporting wine data stems from the unique ways it is sold and tracked. Various channels, including grocery stores, wine shops, restaurants, bars, winery direct sales, online sales, and imported bulk wines, all employ different tracking methods. As a result, the information collected by different data companies can vary.
The Wine Market Council’s consumer survey data was used to explore wine consumer behavior in this report, under the expertise of Christian Miller. The research revealed that 35% of the U.S. adult population are wine drinkers, and per capita consumption has largely remained consistent since the mid-1990s.
Percentage of U.S. Wine Drinkers by Generation from 2005 to 2023
One intriguing portion of the study reveals that 61% of U.S. wine enthusiasts belong to the Gen Z, millennial and Gen X demographics, whereas the baby boomers demographic (aged 59 and above) are gradually reducing their alcohol consumption. But analysis from Miller denotes that overall, there are more likenesses than differences among the generations.
Miller pointed out, “For example, the percentage of Gen Xers, Millennials and Gen Z who enjoy wine during their 20s have been relatively alike.” Simultaneously, he advised to be “warier about stereotyping behaviors according to generation,” because there exist other elements like life stage, income, education, and social background that impact wine consumption.
Indeed, the findings demonstrate that wine enthusiasts are wealthier compared to others, with 53% earning over $100,000 annually as compared to only 34% among non-wine drinkers. Moreover, 52% of wine drinkers are college graduates and 71% are homeowners.
Andrew Adams of Wine Business Analytics completed the winery insight section of the survey, analyzing 630 wineries out of a total of 11,000. He ensured the representative nature of the sample across various U.S. states, winery sizes, and price levels.
While some wineries, particularly those offering lower-priced products in retail, have encountered disappointing sales figures over the past years, more than half of U.S. wineries – amounting to 55% – declared that they’ve successfully met or even surpassed their sales targets as of 2023.
Moreover, a significant majority – exceeding 70% – of the surveyed sample displayed a robust optimism for the future, with anticipations of escalating sales growth. Key areas of potential expansion in the market, as identified by the report, included the individual beings of new brands, ready-to-drink wine cocktails, cost-effective wine options sold per glass, innovative packaging formats, and broadening channels for direct customer sales both at the physical winery and digitally online.
Despite acknowledging that there exist certain challenges and that the lower market spectrum is poised for stagnation or even reduction, the report affirms the U.S. wine industry’s resilience and strength beyond what was presumed in 2024.
Commenting on the report’s findings, BMO’s Adam Beak expressed his surprise, saying “I was taken aback by some of the encouraging findings in the report, considering how one often tends to believe the negative headlines swirling around.”
“We need to fight back with real fact-based data, because the negativity could become a self-fulfilling prophecy. That’s not to say there aren’t problems, and that some businesses will have a hard time, but, the news isn’t all negative. Many wineries are expecting good growth in future years,” he continued.
Beak concluded by saying that, “we hope wine businesses can use the data in the report to guide them and make better decisions. Wine is an 8,000 year old industry, and it isn’t going away, but it is evolving. And, as wine businesses, we need to evolve with it.”
Adam Beak, Managing Director and Head of the Wine & Spirits Vertical of BMO
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Decline in U.S and California Wine Sales Despite Growth in San Diego Area, Including Ramona
A new report by San Diego’s winery trade group has encouraging news for wineries in San Diego County: In 2023, sales and hiring were both up year over year.
That includes 166 wineries, which are scattered throughout urban San Diego neighborhoods like Point Loma and Mira Mesa, cities including Lakeside and Escondido, as well as in the backcountry of Julian, Ramona and Santa Ysabel.
Ramona is home to 50-plus wineries. More than 40 belong to the Ramona Valley Vineyard Association, according to Ginny Boney, RVVA vice president.
These businesses have largely bounced back from the turbulence of the COVID-19 pandemic. Some are expanding.
That’s a striking contrast to how the rest of the U.S. wine industry is doing. According to Silicon Valley Bank’s State of the US Wine Industry Report, “Direct-to-consumer volume and value sales were lower in 2023 and tasting room visitation dropped for the second straight year.” That report says interest in wine is dwindling as other lures — beer, canned alcoholic beverages, liquor and cannabis — beckon, especially among key younger drinkers.
California’s wine industry also is hurting. Consumption fell almost 9 percent in 2023, according to a report cited May 8 in the San Francisco Chronicle. Trouble has been brewing for a while. “Who Will Save the US Wine Industry? Not California Boomers” reads one recent headline by Bloomberg. And Last September, Meininger’s International, a wine trade publication, wrote about California’s grape surplus amid falling demand.
San Diego’s wine industry is a drop in the bucket — producing around $55 million, compared to with California’s $55 billion. But its winemakers are doing a lot right, according to the San Diego wineries report, by the San Diego County Vintners Association trade group, which examined economic data and surveyed winemakers to piece together a state of the industry.
The data tells a story of resilience and resourcefulness, said Vince Vasquez, the report’s author.
“That is, I think, something that is a clear indication that wineries, at least in San Diego County, have found the solutions they need to be successful for serving existing and new customers,” he said.
Some of the report’s findings:
A rosé picture
Vasquez, the policy and data analyst hired to conduct the research and author the report, said San Diego’s wineries have mostly rebounded from pandemic era disruptions and are finding ways to draw in more customers.
While consumption fell 2 to 4 percent in the U.S. and more sharply in California, here it grew 11 percent. (The increase was due to more wine sold and less to higher prices, he noted.)
Last year, San Diego saw a tourism bump, and “all of the wineries benefited from that,” Vasquez said. But they’re also focusing on events, boosting marketing and, at a time when QR codes and apps make contactless ordering easy, vineyards are investing in customer-facing, tasting room staff. At wineries, storytelling sells: chatting with staff, meeting the owners, learning about the history of the winery, Vasquez said.
“Engagement from staff is credited as a key component to the winery experience,” he said.
Boney of RVVA agreed.
“Frequently at the wineries here, because they are small, guests can meet the winemakers and actually see the vineyard,” she said. “And if people are interested in being educated, we do educate.”
Some of the challenges faced, particularly by Ramona venues, is that the wineries are boutique and small, she said.
“In larger areas of the county, including Temecula, there are often hotels and spas and other attractions, which we don’t have here in Ramona,” Boney said.
During the pandemic, outdoor spaces were vital — and now are being used for events and weddings.
While many Ramona wineries are currently not offering venue for weddings, and local regulations have momentarily paused live music engagements, outdoor locations continue to host a range of events.
“Some of the events are wine-centric, like wine pairing events and wine knowledge sharing sessions,” stated Boney.
Moreover, wineries host a multitude of activities that could be centered around native wildlife, special meals, historical discussions or presentations by local specialists, she added.
The analysis highlighted a key macroeconomic scenario that played a part in a successful year: Enterprises have the ability to procure the necessities for wine production and distribution.
“Supply chain challenges are no longer a significant issue or a meaningful issue for wineries here,” Vasquez said. The survey, which received 38 responses from 166 licensed current and future wineries, excluding satellite tasting rooms, indicated a significant decrease in concerns about material sourcing compared to the previous year. In 2022, 81% of respondents expressed worries about sourcing glass; a mere 19% had no supply chain concerns.
In 2023, the situation reversed: Only 19% were concerned about obtaining glass, and 81% had no worries regarding supply chains.
However, the positive change was counterbalanced by higher costs in a year marked by ongoing inflation, as noted in the report.
Buzz kill
Even though wineries are fostering relationships and attracting patronage, the report also highlighted certain alarming trends.
Smaller wineries seem to be grappling with harsher conditions.
“The surge in revenue in 2023 was largely propelled by the burgeoning large wineries in the region, which created substantial jobs and sales interactions. A significant proportion of the smaller wineries are either enduring another year of stagnant or reduced sales, or witnessing marginal increases in sales,” the report asserts.
In Ramona, Boney attributes much of the depreciation in figures to inflation.
“I seriously believe inflation is making a noticeable impact on people, significantly reducing their disposable income. Particularly in California, majority of people’s income gets spent on necessities like gas, energy, and groceries,” she expressed.
One more obstacle is the decreasing affordability of insurance. Many wineries scrutinized in the survey have reduced shrubbery and created defensible space around their premises, and a few even procured firefighting equipment in 2023. Yet, almost one-fourth of those surveyed were denied insurance coverage and the rates for 60 percent increased.
Having to face insurance denial and rate hikes because of wildfire risks, more and more wineries surveyed resorted to Fair Access to Insurance Requirements (FAIR) Plans. These plans, while expensive, are viewed as the last-ditch insurance coverage option.
According to Boney, the insurance dilemma in Ramona isn’t unique and is quite similar to other parts of the state. When this is combined with the additional liquor liability, “securing affordable insurance remains a challenging task here.”
San Diego’s wineries often remain overlooked, overshadowed by not only Temecula but also the craft beer industry. Even outside of San Diego, in places like Arizona or Chicago, brands like Stone Brewing are well-known.
According to both Weber and Vasquez, in order to compete, local wineries need to increase their visibility. This could be achieved through more wine events, greater collaborations, and an uptick in marketing efforts.
Boney pointed out a common challenge that wineries, especially those in Ramona, typically face – lack of awareness about their existence. He shared, “Every week someone confesses their ignorance of not only the existence of any wineries in Ramona, but also the surprising number of these establishments.”
She mentioned that the RVVA is deploying numerous promotional strategies to address the lack of awareness.
The RVVA, along with most wineries, have made their presence felt on social media. There has also been a rise in the amount of hosted events, and the costs are usually kept low to attract a larger crowd, she added.
Boney said, “Our participation in numerous events helps us generate buzz, these include wine pouring events in Temecula and across the county. We also organize the Holiday Wine Trail and the Summer of Rose, which runs from June through August.”
One interesting aspect to note is that wineries are scattered across various locations ranging from the coast of San Diego to the desert and the border, said Vasquez. Unlike in Napa and Temecula where they’re clustered together, in San Diego one doesn’t have to travel far to sample a local wine.
Pebble Beach Food and Wine Festival to Return in 2024: Rediscovering its “Roots
Pebble Beach Food & Wine took place April 4-7, 2024
After a long break that was palpable to gastronomes and vinophiles, the proclamation that Pebble Beach Food and Wine was making a spectacular comeback in 2024 sparked mixed reactions for me. On one side, it was one of the leading food and wine festivals in the U.S., recognized for a level of grandeur and star attraction that is only challenged by Aspen Food and Wine. As someone that covers food and wine, it should have been an obvious choice to participate. However, my identity as a BIPOC gave me a moment to reflect. I’ve been to Pebble Beach Food and Wine before the break and under the previous management. To say the least, the most color I’ve seen in these gatherings is in the wine glasses, not represented by the people holding them. As mentioned before, my apprehension wasn’t about the culinary arts; the names of Maneet Chauhan and Stephanie Izard had me sold. It wasn’t about the wine; with brands like Bouchaine, Laurent-Perrier, Kosta Browne among the list. It also wasn’t about The Inn at Spanish Bay at Pebble Beach. The issue was a disregard for diversity and inclusion. How would the festival’s new leadership tackle this? Upon knowing about a couple of key partnerships, it was clear that they had addressed this in a significant way!
Even before the official reveal of talent, brands, and seminars, two things stood out to me and ultimately determined my attendance, after my initial reservations. The first was the participation of A21, a marketing production company founded by CEO Brett Friedman. Friedman’s company has a history of managing festivals of this size with annual events such as Atlanta Food & Wine, South Beach Food & Wine, and Whiskies of the World Tour. I have attended several of A21 events, so I understand the level at which his team conducts these events. A21 events always have a variety of activities and, more importantly, a diversity of attendees. Perhaps it’s the demographics of the A21 staff, including the leadership. Or maybe it’s the locations of the events. Talking to Friedman, it became clear that it’s his overall strategy. While all businesses appreciate money, do they value diversity at the same time? A21 has shown that they indeed do!
This brings me to the second reason, The Roots Fund. Led by Ikimi Dubose-Woodson and Carlton McCoy, their mission is to “nourish and enrich the lives of communities of color in the wine industry.” Although the mission is simple to describe, figuring out how to cooperate and incorporate BIPOC is a bit more complicated. More often than not, we see symbolic gestures used as a checkbox. A personal “favorite” is hiring a Chief Diversity Officer quickly, almost as if that would solve all diversity issues in an instant. But then a decade later, the same company shows minimal improvement in diversity, especially at the executive level. This is not what Dubose-Woodson and McCoy stand for. Knowing them and their work intimately, I can confidently say that they do not associate with those who make empty gestures but instead with those who perform. Meaning, they provide real opportunities for BIPOC communities to show what we are capable of and to be rewarded for it (They appreciate the green too!).
“Pebble Beach Food & Wine has been a staple in food and beverage for years. Looking at the list of chefs, brands, and partners, inclusivity is being paired with luxury. The Roots Fund is representative of an inclusive beverage space, so to be involved as the wine direction team shows the industry changing before our eyes. Pebble Beach Food & Wine is a changemaker in hospitality.” – Ikimi Dubose-Woodson, CEO of The Roots Fund
Dubose-Woodson, McCoy, and her team were involved in almost every facet of the festival which is the true partnership communities of color have been ready for.
Pebble Food and Wine brought back many of festival goers’ favorite activities and seminars. Patrons who purchased a Diamond Package (three package types: Diamond, Platinum, and Gold) had the opportunity to play on the legendary #1 public golf course for 18 holes. Later that evening the festival kicked off with Coast to Coast with The James Beard Foundation: Opening Night. All ticket holders had the opportunity to sample cuisine from James Beard Award winners and nominees like Justin Sutherland of Northern Soul, Brandon Jew of Mister Jew’s, Reem’s Assil of Reem’s California, and several more.
Keith Corbin of Alta Adams at James Beard Opening Night Event
The first night was highlighted by a seminar titled “Nick Gislason on Flavor,” which was hosted by FINE+RARE. Those who are wine lovers may recognize the name Nick Gislason. He holds the role of Director of Winemaking at Screaming Eagle and the Technical Director of Lopez Island Community Fireworks. Additionally, he is the co-founder of Hanabi Lager, a brewery in Napa, CA. The name Hanabi originates from the Japanese word for firework. Despite his technical training in winemaking, Gislason shared that his approach is more flavor-based, heavily relying on taste, sight, and smell, which he believes are the most acute instruments for winemaking and brewing.
Next was “Wines Views” at the Pebble Beach Golf Course located at The Lodge at Pebble Beach.
Friday was a busy day filled with events at The Inn at Spanish Bay and the sister property, The Lodge at Pebble Beach. Shuttles were available for transportation between the properties. However, due to the need to be in multiple places at the same time, I relied on the official automotive partner, Volvo. They provided courtesy rides in their hybrid or fully electric SUVs, which ensured timely arrival and maximized the experience.
The morning began with an Introduction to Tempos Vega Sicilia and Tempranillo, where various Spanish wines were showcased:
Oremus Mandolas 2020, Furmint
Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia, Macán 2018, Rioja 100% Tempranillo
Bodegas Pintia, Pintia 2018, Toro 100% Tempranillo
Bodegas Alion, Alion 2019, Ribera Del Duero 100% Tempranillo
Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Valbuena 2017, Ribera del Duero, is composed of 96% Tempranillo and 4% Merlot.
Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Unico 2013, Ribera del Duero, is a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Oremus Aszú, 5 Puttonyos 2016, varieties include Furmint, Harsevelu, Zeta.
The next event, the diSHEd Lunch, was a celebration and conversation of food, wine, and women which saw the participation of some of my she-roes in the field of food and wine. Esteemed chefs such as Lindsay Autry, Maneet Chauhan, Valerie Chang, and Elizabeth Falkner graced the event, offering more than just the meals on their plates. They shared their personal experiences in their culinary journeys as women and responded to inquiries from an appreciative audience.
Following a much-deserved rest, I made my way to The Beach & Tennis Club at the Lodge at Pebble Beach for the California Coastal Pacific Feast, hosted by James Beard Award recipient Jeremiah Tower. The event, a walk-around tasting, felt like a personal episode of “Noël – this is your own California Life.” I had the pleasure of seeing some of my favourite chefs and friends such as Dustin Vallete from The Matheson, Michael Chang from the Foray, Matt Horn from Horn Barbecue, and Michael Rotondo from Coastal Kitchen.
The spirit brands present were all exceptional, but the one that stood out for me was The Art and Legacy of Tequila with Casa Obsidiana, scheduled for 10am. Jean-Charles Boisset, a legend renowned for his esteemed JCB Collection of wines and co-founder of Obsidiana, a premium tequila, had made an appearance. I hadn’t seen him for a few months, so I took the opportunity to jokingly tell him that “only you can get me to drink tequila at this time of the morning.” Francisco Quijano, one of just ten certified Master Tequileros globally, guided us through a taste testing of Casa Obsidiana’s three distinct tequilas: Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo. To sustain myself through the day, I had to consume about three bottles of Icelandic Glacial Water. Maybe next time we should create bespoke “Tequila at Ten” tees for anyone who comes along.
Tasting Pavilion at Pebble Beach Food and Wine
I’ve expressed this opinion before – imagine a food and wine festival without a Grand Tasting? The Tasting Pavilion embodies the essence of the Pebble Beach Food & Wine event. For two days (Saturday and Sunday), it gathers all festival attendees and workers under one roof. Elite chefs, genius winemakers, craft spirits, special event features, and music converge into a single spot for the indulgence of connoisseurs. If you aren’t able to attend the other events during the four-day celebration, this event provides a literal and figurative taste. I participated for about 90 minutes, which included some time spent developing my summer tan in the VIP Cabanas before I went back home.
The Happy Hour event, ‘Burgers, Bourbon, and Bordeaux’ was held at the fire pit on the back patio of The Inn at Spanish Bay. Culinary creations were provided by John Tesar, David Rose, Alvin Cailan, Leonard Botello IV, and Anna Marie Bayonito, making it challenging not to eat too much before the main dinner. But then I saw Keith Corbin of Alta Adams, grinning widely as he served brisket. I can’t deny I had my fair share. The presence of both bourbon and Bordeaux required I sample his dish with both separately.
After a small respite, I made my way to dinner. Being a big fan of Barbuto in NYC, I opted for the Quality Italian Dinner: A Feast with Culinary Masters hosted by Jonathan Waxman. Mixologist Jason Asher, along with chefs Giorgio Rapicavoli, Angela Tamura, and James Trees served up a five-course meal that had guests feeling like they were dining in Italy. Special kudos must go to Hue Society Sommelier of the Year Cassandra Felix and Beverage Director Molly Brooks, as the whole evening ran with clockwork precision.
My night concluded at the official After Hours: An Exclusive Late Night Event presented by Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits. Savoring cocktails, spirits, and wines from the ‘Southern G’ family while reflecting on the day with friends and colleagues was the perfect end-of-day pairing.
Sunday Jazz Brunch at Pebble Beach Food and Wine
Last day before heading home up the coast. It ended with a Michelin-starred chef at the Lodge at Pebble Beach’s Fairway 1 Complex, Rogelio Garcia of Auro in Napa Valley. Garcia was hosting To the South, With Love: A Southern Jazz Brunch. Patrons enjoyed crafted dishes by Peter Armellino, Rogelio Garcia, Angela Herrera, Jeffrey Jake, Barb Batiste, and Michael Chang, while grooving to live jazz music by Steve Lucky Trio.
Reflecting on this year’s Pebble Beach Food and Wine, the diversity observed did not merely enhance the event—it redefined it. It elevated a prestigious affair into a cultural celebration, showcasing the profound impact of inclusion. The flavors became more vivid, the conversations deeper, and the overall experience significantly more enriching. Diversity proved to be the secret ingredient that rendered this year’s gathering truly outstanding. Here’s to hoping that this formula continues to be embraced in the years ahead.
Pebble Beach Food and Wine returns April 10-13, 2025.
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The Revival of a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyard: A Century After Uprooting
Mustard flowers in the vineyards of Napa Valley
At a train station, panic ensued as two men were tragically killed. Among the dead was a pillar of their community, JC Weinberger. This untimely death left a void which was filled by his wife, Hannah Weinberger. She took over as director of the Bank of St. Helena in Napa Valley. More so, she became the first acknowledged female winemaker in California, managing the olive tree grove and vineyards on their terraced hillsides.
Central dome of the Machine Gallery at the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris. Artist Louis Beroud.
In 1889, Hannah journeyed to Europe for the Paris World’s Fair and was awarded a silver medal in a wine contest. Her success spanned both as a businesswoman and winemaker. Despite all odds and the advent of Prohibition in 1920, she never remarried and had to pull out her vines.
Almost a century after termination of the vineyard, a couple recognising a place with immense potential for producing excellent Cabernet Sauvignon coupled with a rich historical authenticity replanted vines in 2019. This was after a strenuous journey that included buying the property in 2013 and waiting for a permit that only came through at the end of 2018. However, the overriding excitement was the chance to revitalize a superior vineyard that gave a woman an opportunity to prosper at a period in time when being a woman was considered a disadvantage. This also meant continuing the legacy of the first female vintner in Napa Valley to make superb wine.
Both husband and wife, Caren and Nick Orum, were undeterred by the magnitude of the task they had taken on. Self-proclaimed as two Jews from the South, Caren, born in a secluded region of Arkansas, and Nick, hailing from Austin, Texas, first moved to a more perilous New York City in the early nineties only to end up in San Francisco where they pursued their dream to produce incredible wine owing to Nick’s longstanding admiration of Bordeaux wine.
Caren and Nick Orum
In their pursuit, they stumbled upon a property in close proximity to two Napa Valley vineyards that had been the recipients of seven perfect 100-point scores from Wine Advocate, Vineyard 29 and Colgin’s Tychson Hill Vineyard- located north of the town of St. Helena. Consequently, they hired vineyard engineers to inspect the soils among other site conditions to establish the possibility of producing exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Every feedback undoubtedly verified that the site was definitely capable of matching the high prospects of its esteemed neighbors.
The concept for their wine, Arborum, was conceived. Arborum is a blend of the word ‘arbor’, signifying their intention to protect the environment on their land, and their surname.
Arborum’s Hidden Key Estate Vineyards
This property’s genuine history drew them in, owing to the rustic house initially built as a hunting lodge. This lodge has become one with the woods on their land, serving as their residence with their three children today. Surprisingly, a grove of over century-old olive trees, some reaching up to 50-feet tall, was found within that forest. These trees, marked with hand-forged square nails and antique metal stamps indicating their planting in the 1870s, had become one with the forest due to neglect. Unaware of these rare, heritage olive trees, Caren and Nick had set about clearing the underbrush on their 20-acre property with a slope of 26 degrees. The estate adjoins Spring Mountain, which has a natural spring flowing through the property and a rich biodiversity that aids in pest control with the presence of hawks, owls, and beneficial insects.
Oscar Renteria and his team at Renteria Vineyard Management were hired by Caren and Nick to meticulously manage their 2.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, which spans altitudes from 500 to 800 feet. With an approach that involved precise, hands-on management of each vine, they earned organic certification in 2021. However, they realized the necessity of finding the perfect winemaker who could bring out the unique characteristics of their historical site.
Winemaker Andy Erickson
Caren explained their choice of collaborating with some of the topmost winemakers in Napa Valley. Among all, they selected Andy Erickson, a name of high prestige with over 25 years of experience in the wine-making industry of Napa Valley. Known for his holistic methodologies, Andy emphasizes vineyard-focused practices, expressing the vine’s environment, and an abundance of experience with Cabernet Sauvignon vines in numerous premium sites in Napa Valley. Describing Arborum estate as “a real sweet spot”, Andy shares his perspective of being on any special land capable of producing something magical and his capability to create a wine reflecting this “special place.”
In the past, Hannah Weinberger, a renowned personality, had won a silver medal in Paris with her wine from this same wonderful property. However, due to prohibition laws, she had to uproot her vineyards. Gradually, the once-admired vineyard grew wild, more resembling a natural reserve. Co-owner Nick humorously suggests how, in his next life, he would prefer to buy a property that already has a vineyard due to the overwhelming time and effort in planting and maintaining it. However, this daunting challenge of restoration was taken up by Caren and Nick Orum.
Upon their initial property acquisition, Caren noticed a grand old oak tree in the middle of their driveway. This tree, like many others on the property, became a playful spot for their children aged four, seven, and ten. One day, their middle child found a peculiar old key apparently from Hannah’s era, in a secret compartment within the oak tree. This discovery led them to name their estate vineyards as ‘Hidden Key.’ However, within two days, the oak tree fell apart from the same place, a significant loss for Caren and Nick as they value every part of their property’s history.
As they stood there looking at the place where the majestic oak tree once proudly stood, knowing that it had lived through so much and seen so many changes, a feeling came over Caren. It was a sign. It was a sign that the property was making the transition to them, as they had been handed the key, and Hannah’s legacy would not be forgotten as they would take it from where she left off, almost 100 years later.
2022 Arborum Proprietary White & 2021 Arborum Proprietary Red
Arborum will have their inaugural release this Fall, in 2024, and the two wines that will initially be released are below, 2022 Proprietary White and 2021 Proprietary Red, with a 100% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon planned for release in a few years. They intend to make around 500 cases of wine annually.
Caren and Nick Orum are committing to donate one million dollars ahead of the launch to kick off their mission to give back to their community and protect the environment. Then, in the future, 100% of Arborum’s net earnings will go to charitable causes. They will divide it between 50% of people who live and work in Napa Valley, as they recognize that the wonderful wines that come out of Napa happen through hard work from people who struggle to survive, helping with social services and safety nets. The other 50% will be allocated to environmental causes with a conservation focus.
They’ve taken great care with their environmental practices on their property, conducting numerous soil studies and slope reports as part of their vineyard management assessments. Along with the mandatories, they carried out extra environmental studies, even checking for endangered northern spotted owls. If the property turns out to be a habitat for these owls, they aim to protect it, emphasizing their desire to maintain their land as a “wildlife thoroughfare,” especially considering the scarcity of such heavily forested properties in their neighborhood.
The Arborum wine labels cleverly pay tribute to their origins. There’s a tiny golden key in the center, and another one atop the capsule, signifying the link to an old key discovered in an oak tree on the property. The label also bears a woodcut impression at the bottom right, an artistic reference to a petrified stump found in their Hidden Key vineyard.
The 2022 Arborum, Proprietary White, from Napa Valley, California is a fine mix: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, and 30% Semillon, derived from the cool climate vineyards in Coombsville. It boasts a delightful bouquet of honeysuckle, white peach, and crushed rocks, with a fleshy fruit palate that’s brightened by lemon peel notes, significant acidity, and saline minerality. The introductory price is set at $125.
The 2021 Arborum, Proprietary Red, also from Napa Valley, California, is winning hearts with its purity. It’s a lively blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon from Arborum’s Hidden Key Vineyard and 5% Cabernet Franc from Pritchard Hill. There’s a lovely spectrum of fruit flavors – ranging from ripe black cherries to luminous red cranberries, mingled with blackcurrant leaves and cocoa powder. High energy on the palate is skillfully offset by dense black raspberry flavors, enriched by undertones of forest floor and volcanic rock, seamlessly woven together with refined tannins. The finish is long-lasting, enchanting with hints of violet aromas. The launch price stands at $265.
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The Unfulfilled Expectations from Non-Alcoholic Wine
The past ten years have proven challenging for wine enthusiasts who appreciate a fine wine with their meal. The rise of Dry January and Sober October, along with the demand for ‘healthy’ low-sugar wines suitable for keto dieters, have been difficult trends to navigate. Even the suggestion of substituting wine with fermented tea like kombucha was floated around, much to the dismay of wine lovers. However, it seems there’s more ahead.
According to marketers and consultants in the wine industry, nonalcoholic wine could be the solution. They believe it could not only save the industry from health warnings issued by institutions such as the World Health Organization and U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention but also make wine more appealing to health-conscious young people. This could potentially give a much-needed boost to grape cultivation against the backdrop of a persistent decrease in demand over the last 15 years. They back these assertions with statistics indicating a rise in the sales of non-alcoholic wine and a decrease in young people choosing to drink alcohol. No amount of alcohol is safe to drink. Alcohol consumption has decreased by almost 14 percent in the past two decades.
While these numbers might be impressive, they hardly paint a complete picture of wine. They overlook its rich history, cultural significance and, most importantly, the sheer enjoyment of wine consumption. If I may say so, non-alcoholic wine seems to be a contradiction in terms. Wine’s essence is in its alcohol content, and removing that makes it, essentially, an odd concoction of grape juice.
Producing non-alcoholic wine involves elaborate and arguably unnecessary industrial processes which are time-consuming, expensive, and involve complex machinery. Thus, they hardly seem like the ideal solutions in these climate change-conscious times. The most common methods – vacuum distillation, reverse osmosis, and spinning (which involves separating the components of the liquid including alcohol through a series of spinning cones) – involve heating the grape juice to almost body temperature.
Why does wine need to contain alcohol, you might wonder? For the production process, it’s necessary for wine grapes to be fermented, becoming genuine wine before the alcohol can be taken out, yielding non-alcoholic (NA) wine. It’s an intriguing paradox, isn’t it?
The second point to grasp is that the majority of a wine’s flavour, character, and sensation on the palate derive from its alcohol content. Emulating these attributes calls for a series of complex substitutes. Wine’s delightful characteristics come about through fermentation, which converts grape sugar into alcohol. Remove the alcohol, and you end up with a beverage that has a likeness to wine but is not the same thing—it’s more than merely grape juice. In many cases, the output can be simple at best, herby and repelling at worst. And the endeavour is even more formidable for NA red wine, as red varieties generally have a heavier texture, possess more alcohol to be extracted, and require the replacement of more flavour.
The science behind this involves different compounds called esters, which contribute to wine’s flavour and fragrance. These are present in the alcohol post-fermentation. Therefore, they mostly disappear once the alcohol is eliminated. Hence, producers must supplement NA wines with other ingredients to reproduce flavour and sensation in the mouth, such as sugar for taste, and glycerol, a thick liquid present in shaving foam and toothpaste, for a similar mouthfeel.
So, how much sugar, which is considered one of the principal dietary culprits in the United States (accompanying salt, fat, and cholesterol)? The amount varies depending on the type of wine and grape utilised. Giesen in New Zealand, one of the world’s leading NA wine producers, makes a non-alcoholic riesling that contains 22 grams of sugar per serving. That’s roughly one-third more per serving than a conventional riesling. While it may not necessarily be less “healthy,” it does present a sort of irony.
Wine’s existence owes to fermentation – to alcohol – providing a safe and reliable drink during the thousands of years prior to modern food preservation like pasteurization. Ancients like the Greeks and Romans regularly indulged in wine, not to simply revel in intoxication but due to its being a safer choice compared to the contaminated, choleric, dysentery-causing, and typhoid-laced water of their times. While our current water sources are substantially safer, it hardly seems fair to forgo a refreshing glass of rosé in warmer climates.
Let’s be clear that the intention here isn’t advocating extreme drinking or consumption when it’s not desired or advisable. Instead, as per Californian winemaker Jon McPherson,”Moderation isn’t complicated. It’s club soda with a lime twist”. So, how did we arrive at the situation where relaxed drinking, embodied by Non-Alcoholic (NA) wine, depends on such an mount of techno-industrial complexities?
This can possibly be attributed to the American propensity for scientific shortcuts as solutions to problems that would otherwise necessitate serious thought. If replacing full-sugar drinks with saccharin and aspartame, or tricking our minds into believing that a carefully constructed meatless burger equals cardiac health has worked, why not opt for wine devoid of alcohol? That would lead to eternal life, right? The simplicity of reducing soft drink or beef intake apparently eludes us. Where’s the fun in that?
Intriguingly, this thirst for perpetual life could be a factor behind the surge in NA wine trend. Jeff Slankard, the wine and beer manager for an upscale grocery chain called Barons Market in Southern California, observed that the stores with the highest NA wine sales had older customers, on average. The expectation was that the younger crowd consuming less alcohol would make up the majority of the market. The surprising outcome makes sense upon reflection considering the health-conscious disposition of their older clientele.
One final contradiction: No one, in any of the marketing literature for NA wine, claims that the stuff is actually better for us than real wine. Yes, it has fewer calories and no alcohol (dubious measures of healthiness, especially out of context), but anything beyond those limited points would run afoul of federal regulations. To claim broader benefits would require scientific studies and developing guidelines based on those studies. This is a process usually reserved for blockbuster drugs, not something to drink with dinner. Would that consumers understood that NA wine is not medicine.
The true believers will scoff at this, being true believers, but it’s possible to drink real wine, get low alcohol, and enjoy what you’re drinking. Hundreds and hundreds of options exist, and they have for years—and learning about them is as simple as a Google search. Know, too, that the amount of alcohol is listed on every bottle by law, so finding low-alcohol wines does not require a degree in winemaking. Most vinho verdes, a Portuguese white, are 9 percent alcohol or less. Riesling can be as low as 6 percent, and it’s even sweet for those who appreciate that. I drink rosés and whites from southwestern France, and the alcohol is about 10 percent. No, none of those are zero, but most of the wines in that list have close to one-third less alcohol than the typical California red. And best of all, they taste like wine and can be drunk with as much moderation as you please.
Finally, a little perspective: Aaron E. Carroll, who teaches at the Indiana University School of Medicine, wrote in an assessment of alcohol science that “15 desserts a day would be bad for you. This could lead to assertions that ‘there’s no safe amount of dessert.’ But it doesn’t mean you should never, ever eat dessert.” As it is with whipped cream, so let it be with wine.
Revival of Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience for its Third Year
Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience returns for its 3rd year from May 16-19th in Sonoma County, California.
The first time is a point, the second time is a line, and by the third time it’s a pattern. Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience (HWFE) is back on Thursday, May 16 for a 4-day celebration. It’s here in Sonoma County, amidst the clinking of wine glasses and laid back luxury that first-time visitors will question why they didn’t find this place and event sooner. Having had the distinct pleasure of attending this Healdsburg wine and food event since its inception, I’ve witnessed its evolution firsthand. From its humble beginnings to its current status as a must-visit for any serious food and wine aficionado, each year has built upon the last, refining and expanding the experience in ways both subtle and significant.
This year’s expansion includes:
“We’re thrilled for our third annual event in May,” exclaimed Steve Dveris, founder and CEO of the festival. “In just a short time, we’ve made a national impact as the first international wine and food festival in Sonoma County and Napa Valley, showcasing wines from around the globe. Our event pillars remain celebrating the talented makers, honoring our agricultural roots, culinary diversity, and sustainability, while pairing local talent with top chefs nationwide. Get ready for an incredible weekend packed with fun, surprises, music, and, of course, the finest wine and food!”
Christone “Kingfish” Ingram will be performing at Rodney Strong Vineyards during Healdsburg Wine & Food (HWFE)
In addition, HWFE will continue to offer special wine tastings and seminar discussions, exceptional lunches, dinners, celebrity chef demonstrations, cocktail experiences, and a live outdoor concert featuringKINGFISH at Rodney Strong on Friday, May 17. But what would a food and wine event be without a GRAND TASTING? The cornerstone event will be held from 12.30pm to 5pm on Saturday, May 18 for patrons to enjoy wine, spirits, and beers from over 150+ brands. Also top chefs like Crista Luedtke, Kelsey Barnard Clark, and Matt Horn will be on hand offering their hand crafted dishes and bites. I’m personally excited to finally try Sushi by Scratch, whose pop-up will be on-site.
The impact of Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience on the local community cannot be overstated. Beyond the immediate economic boost, which is palpable to anyone who has tried booking a room in the area during the festivities, there is a deeper, more lasting effect. The outdoor concert at Rodney Strong Vineyards on Friday evening with KINGFISH benefits Farm to Pantry, whose goal is to bring together our communities to end food injustice and reverse global warming by rescuing and sharing locally grown food with those who have been marginalized. In addition HWFE will contribute to the Sonoma County Grape Growers Foundation. The organization’s mission is to raise funds that support the Leadership Academy, which focuses on workforce development and other resources that elevate local vineyard workers, farmer workers and their families. Lastly this year’s event will also support Healdsburg Future Farmers of America (FFA). Sponsored by Foley Family Wines, a significant donation will go towards the HWFE Future Farmers Scholarship, created by HWFE for students from the local Healdsburg High School FFA chapter.
“As co-founders and partners in this remarkable endeavor, we are deeply committed to our dual mission: showcasing Sonoma County’s extraordinary wine, agriculture, and commitment to sustainability on a global platform, while simultaneously raising vital funds to uplift and honor our local vineyard workforce. This mission permeates every aspect of our events and messaging throughout the entire weekend. What could be more fulfilling than enjoying oneself while also making a positive impact?” – Karissa Kruse, CEO & President of Sonoma County Winegrowers and Executive Director of the Sonoma County Grape Growers Foundation.
Healdsburg Wine & Food Experience is a four-day celebration featuring the best of world-renowned food and wines and highlighting the “Makers Behind the Magic.” The festival showcases the region’s makers – farmers, growers, winemakers, and chefs – alongside globally recognized wines from the greatest wine regions of the world. HWFE highlights vibrant culinary diversity, sustainable farming practices and a deep connection to agriculture, through tastings, Culinary demonstrations, seminars, events, and more, in the beautiful setting of Healdsburg & Wine Country. Learn more here.
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Local Wineries in San Diego Flourish Despite Decline in U.S and California Wine Sales: A How-To Guide
“I feel sometimes like we’re the David who’s starting to really have a go at Goliath.”
In this version, Goliath is Temecula and David is the San Diego winery scene.
That’s the take of Mike Weber, the general manager of Orfila Vineyards & Winery and president of the San Diego County Vintners Association. A few times in a recent interview, he expressed bemused frustration that San Diego’s wineries are sometimes overlooked by local wine drinkers and revelers.
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“I mean, they’re literally driving by 100 to 160 different wineries to go to Temecula,” he said.
But a report published Wednesday by San Diego’s winery trade group suggests San Diego wineries have some encouraging findings: In 2023, sales and hiring were both up year over year at San Diego County‘s 166 wineries, which are scattered throughout urban San Diego neighborhoods like Point Loma and Mira Mesa, cities including Lakeside and Escondido, as well as in the backcountry of Julian, Ramona and Santa Ysabel.
These businesses have largely bounced back from the turbulence of the COVID-19 pandemic. Some are expanding.
That’s a striking contrast to how the rest of the U.S. wine industry is doing. According to Silicon Valley Bank’s State of the US Wine Industry Report, “Direct-to-consumer volume and value sales were lower in 2023 and tasting room visitation dropped for the second straight year.” That report says interest in wine is dwindling as other lures — beer, canned alcoholic beverages, liquor and cannabis — beckon, especially among key younger drinkers.
California’s wine industry also is hurting. Consumption fell almost 9 percent in 2023, according to a report cited Wednesday in the San Francisco Chronicle. Trouble has been brewing for a while. “Who Will Save the US Wine Industry? Not California Boomers” reads one recent headline by Bloomberg. And Last September, Meininger’s International, a wine trade publication, wrote about California’s grape surplus amid falling demand.
San Diego’s wine industry is a drop in the bucket — producing around $55 million, compared with California’s $55 billion. But its winemakers are doing a lot right, according to the San Diego wineries report, by the San Diego County Vintners Association trade group, which examined economic data and surveyed winemakers to piece together a state of the industry.
The data tells a story of resilience and resourcefulness, said Vince Vasquez, the report’s author.
“That is, I think, something that is a clear indication that wineries, at least in San Diego County, have found the solutions they need to be successful for serving existing and new customers,” he said.
Some of the report’s findings:
Vasquez, the policy and data analyst hired to conduct the research and author the report, said San Diego’s wineries have mostly rebounded from pandemic era disruptions and are finding ways to draw in more customers.
While consumption fell 2 to 4 percent in the U.S. and more sharply in California, here it grew 11 percent. (The increase was due to more wine sold and less to higher prices, he noted.)
Last year, San Diego experienced a surge in tourism, which had a positive effect on all the wineries in the area, according to Vasquez. In addition to this, the wineries are putting efforts into organizing events, enhancing their marketing strategies and investing in customer service. This comes at a time when QR codes and applications have made the process of ordering without personal contact possible. However, the trend in wineries is storytelling. Customers enjoy conversing with staff members, getting to know the owners, and learning about the winery’s history. Vasquez emphasized that the involvement from staff members plays a crucial role in the winery experience.
In the face of the pandemic, having outdoor spaces proved to be crucial. These spaces are now being repurposed for hosting events and even weddings.
For example, Orfila, a large winery located in the San Pasqual Valley, brought onboard a dedicated events manager last summer.
“With over 70 acres of sprawling vines and mountain views, there is no shortage of breathtaking scenery,” says Orfila’s website under the photo of the rolling vineyards bathed in a dusky glow.
The goal isn’t primarily weekend weddings but rather corporate events that can be scheduled from Monday to Friday. Employing an events specialist was a logical consequent step for the 30-year-old winery, considering the surge in events demand as the COVID-19 pandemic subdued, Weber mentioned.
“We had been receiving considerable interest through telephone calls and emails, but we were not really prepared to manage it,” Weber stated. These days, he added, “we are observing an ever-increasing number of reservations.”
The report highlighted one macroeconomic condition that contributed to the successful year: Businesses can acquire what they require to produce and sell wine.
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Despite the positive connections and client base being established by wineries, the survey also highlighted a few problem areas.
The circumstances are becoming increasingly difficult for smaller wineries.
“Large and rapidly growing wineries in the area drove the bulk of revenue growth in 2023, adding crucial jobs and stimulating sales. The majority of the smaller wineries, on the other hand, are either seeing another year of stagnant or decreasing sales or only modestly increasing,” the survey reports.
Reduced access to cheap insurance is yet another issue. In 2023, the majority of the examined wineries lessened brush and cultivated defensible areas, and some even invested in firefighting equipment at their sites. However, nearly a quarter of those examined were denied coverage, and premiums increased for 60 percent.
Rejections of coverage and increased costs due to the risk of wildfires have led to a higher percentage of surveyed wineries resorting to Fair Access to Insurance Requirements (FAIR) Plans. These plans are expensive and often viewed as a last-minute option for insurance coverage.
Another hurdle is the lower wages earned by the San Diego wineries in comparison with other wine-producing regions in the state.
This discrepancy is connected to difficulties in the recruitment and retention of skillful workers, the expanded hiring of lower wage entry-level workers, part-time employees supplanting full-time workers, greater number of boutique winery owners shoulder multiple roles, and workforce reductions. The report also mentions the influence of California’s housing affordability crisis, which is more serious in San Diego County.
Despite these issues, Weber of Orfila asserts that San Diego is not experiencing an exodus of winery workers to Northern California, where the industry wages are higher. He claims that, if anything, workers are migrating to San Diego from other areas.
“From what I’ve seen and heard, it seems more like it’s the opposite. People come to San Diego from other places,” he stated.
Let’s revisit the tale of David and Goliath.
“We often hear people at different events who are tasting our wine say, ‘I had no idea they made wine in San Diego.’ Needless to say, we’re not fond of hearing that. It paints a pretty accurate picture of what we’re up against,” Weber expressed.
The vineyards of San Diego not only exist in Temecula’s overshadow but also in the shadow of craft beers. Who in San Diego, or even in Arizona and Chicago, hasn’t heard of Stone Brewing?
Local wineries must put themselves in the spotlight to compete effectively, as pointed out by both Weber and Vasquez. This could be accomplished through increased wine events, collaboration, and marketing.
Vasquez highlighted an interesting fact: wineries are scattered everywhere, from the coast of San Diego to the desert and the border. In places like Napa and Temecula, wineries are clustered together. In San Diego, however, one can sample a local wine without having to travel great distances.
Local wines continue to garner praise. In the 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition — a platform that judges thousands of North American wines — and the Toast of the Coast International Wine Competition, San Pasqual Winery received numerous awards.
Producing award-winning wines with grapes sourced from across California, Carruth Cellars operates as an urban winery and tasting room. Its 2019 Kelly Napa Cabernet Sauvignon was a gold winner at the 2023 Toast of the Coast competition.
“We’re making some inroads,” Weber said. “It always starts with the wine quality. Several locals who’ve been in the business for a very long time have made rather strong comments saying just what a wonderful incline, increase, in the quality of wine that’s happened in the county in the last 10 to 15 years. It’s remarkable.
“I think if you lead with good wine, all the rest comes together,” he said.
Stunning Wine Bottles that are Worth Buying for Their Look (and Their Great Taste, Too!)
Laura Riches embarked on a unique endeavor when she launched Laylo, a company that delivers wine in a box. The packaging was a significant aspect of the overall concept, with every variety showcasing customized artwork. The design process involved extensive conversations with the wine producers and an exploration of local artistry ranging from textiles to visual arts. The French sauvignon blanc caught my attention, its packaging reflecting the winemaker’s life story in a charming toile-de-Jouy-style.
The wine industry is not limiting its creativity to Laylo. A growing number of wines are appearing in beautifully adorned cans and boxes, adding visual appeal to the drinking experience. This approach is a significant change from the past when the wine’s label design could inadvertently affect the consumers’ perception of its quality. Patterned and colorful labels were often associated with inferior quality, although Château Mouton Rothschild was a notable exception. This famous winery created a trend by using artwork designed by renowned artists on its wine labels.
Sourcing Table is another fine example, where every wine sold seems to have been selected for aesthetic appeal. Look also at the innovative ‘Don’t Feed the Ponies’ series created by Sharpham at Sandridge Barton in Devon. This collection includes unique wines such as a light red crafted from four varieties of ‘pinot’ grapes, an orange wine, and a cloudy sparkling ‘col fondo’ style. Like the proseccos under the same name, it undergoes fermentation first in a tank, then in a bottle. Each wine from the Don’t Feed the Ponies collection is named after a natural feature in Dartmoor and displays a distinctive label created by a local artist.
A post shared by Sharpham Wine at our new home (@sandridgebarton)
A clever label can also tell a story. Brit Katie Jones, who makes gorgeous wines in the rugged Languedoc, has a wine called Along Came Jones Hairy Grenache. The label features a comic-strip with Jones as the hero, who discovers she’s growing a type of grenache that’s different to everyone else’s.
Others simply stand out. There’s a school of labels whose backgrounds are a high-saturation, single-block colour, like the lapis blue of Domaine Equis’ Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage, or the strong red of the Grand Aven of Vignerons Ardéchois (both of these wines are sold by Yapp).
None of this is to say that supermarkets and discount chains are slacking. Two of the most beautiful labels among this year’s crop are on bottles of Greek wine in Aldi. I love the octopus whose golden tentacles wind around the assyrtiko-syrah rosé.
Speaking of rosé, in this aisle it’s not just the label that is highly stylised. There are square bottles, round bottles, bottles that are squat and bottles that are tall with voluptuous curves; bottles whose glass forms pleat-like ridges to refract sunlight in glittering patterns, and bottles made from chunky glass with the palest hint of green. Some, like Whispering Angel spin-offs The Beach and The Pale (which features a sketch of café society), have labels that allude to the holiday feeling you might hope to have when you’re drinking them.









