Pebble Beach Food & Wine took place April 4-7, 2024
After a long break that was palpable to gastronomes and vinophiles, the proclamation that Pebble Beach Food and Wine was making a spectacular comeback in 2024 sparked mixed reactions for me. On one side, it was one of the leading food and wine festivals in the U.S., recognized for a level of grandeur and star attraction that is only challenged by Aspen Food and Wine. As someone that covers food and wine, it should have been an obvious choice to participate. However, my identity as a BIPOC gave me a moment to reflect. I’ve been to Pebble Beach Food and Wine before the break and under the previous management. To say the least, the most color I’ve seen in these gatherings is in the wine glasses, not represented by the people holding them. As mentioned before, my apprehension wasn’t about the culinary arts; the names of Maneet Chauhan and Stephanie Izard had me sold. It wasn’t about the wine; with brands like Bouchaine, Laurent-Perrier, Kosta Browne among the list. It also wasn’t about The Inn at Spanish Bay at Pebble Beach. The issue was a disregard for diversity and inclusion. How would the festival’s new leadership tackle this? Upon knowing about a couple of key partnerships, it was clear that they had addressed this in a significant way!
Even before the official reveal of talent, brands, and seminars, two things stood out to me and ultimately determined my attendance, after my initial reservations. The first was the participation of A21, a marketing production company founded by CEO Brett Friedman. Friedman’s company has a history of managing festivals of this size with annual events such as Atlanta Food & Wine, South Beach Food & Wine, and Whiskies of the World Tour. I have attended several of A21 events, so I understand the level at which his team conducts these events. A21 events always have a variety of activities and, more importantly, a diversity of attendees. Perhaps it’s the demographics of the A21 staff, including the leadership. Or maybe it’s the locations of the events. Talking to Friedman, it became clear that it’s his overall strategy. While all businesses appreciate money, do they value diversity at the same time? A21 has shown that they indeed do!
This brings me to the second reason, The Roots Fund. Led by Ikimi Dubose-Woodson and Carlton McCoy, their mission is to “nourish and enrich the lives of communities of color in the wine industry.” Although the mission is simple to describe, figuring out how to cooperate and incorporate BIPOC is a bit more complicated. More often than not, we see symbolic gestures used as a checkbox. A personal “favorite” is hiring a Chief Diversity Officer quickly, almost as if that would solve all diversity issues in an instant. But then a decade later, the same company shows minimal improvement in diversity, especially at the executive level. This is not what Dubose-Woodson and McCoy stand for. Knowing them and their work intimately, I can confidently say that they do not associate with those who make empty gestures but instead with those who perform. Meaning, they provide real opportunities for BIPOC communities to show what we are capable of and to be rewarded for it (They appreciate the green too!).
“Pebble Beach Food & Wine has been a staple in food and beverage for years. Looking at the list of chefs, brands, and partners, inclusivity is being paired with luxury. The Roots Fund is representative of an inclusive beverage space, so to be involved as the wine direction team shows the industry changing before our eyes. Pebble Beach Food & Wine is a changemaker in hospitality.” – Ikimi Dubose-Woodson, CEO of The Roots Fund
Dubose-Woodson, McCoy, and her team were involved in almost every facet of the festival which is the true partnership communities of color have been ready for.
Pebble Food and Wine brought back many of festival goers’ favorite activities and seminars. Patrons who purchased a Diamond Package (three package types: Diamond, Platinum, and Gold) had the opportunity to play on the legendary #1 public golf course for 18 holes. Later that evening the festival kicked off with Coast to Coast with The James Beard Foundation: Opening Night. All ticket holders had the opportunity to sample cuisine from James Beard Award winners and nominees like Justin Sutherland of Northern Soul, Brandon Jew of Mister Jew’s, Reem’s Assil of Reem’s California, and several more.
Keith Corbin of Alta Adams at James Beard Opening Night Event
The first night was highlighted by a seminar titled “Nick Gislason on Flavor,” which was hosted by FINE+RARE. Those who are wine lovers may recognize the name Nick Gislason. He holds the role of Director of Winemaking at Screaming Eagle and the Technical Director of Lopez Island Community Fireworks. Additionally, he is the co-founder of Hanabi Lager, a brewery in Napa, CA. The name Hanabi originates from the Japanese word for firework. Despite his technical training in winemaking, Gislason shared that his approach is more flavor-based, heavily relying on taste, sight, and smell, which he believes are the most acute instruments for winemaking and brewing.
Next was “Wines Views” at the Pebble Beach Golf Course located at The Lodge at Pebble Beach.
Friday was a busy day filled with events at The Inn at Spanish Bay and the sister property, The Lodge at Pebble Beach. Shuttles were available for transportation between the properties. However, due to the need to be in multiple places at the same time, I relied on the official automotive partner, Volvo. They provided courtesy rides in their hybrid or fully electric SUVs, which ensured timely arrival and maximized the experience.
The morning began with an Introduction to Tempos Vega Sicilia and Tempranillo, where various Spanish wines were showcased:
Oremus Mandolas 2020, Furmint
Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia, Macán 2018, Rioja 100% Tempranillo
Bodegas Pintia, Pintia 2018, Toro 100% Tempranillo
Bodegas Alion, Alion 2019, Ribera Del Duero 100% Tempranillo
Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Valbuena 2017, Ribera del Duero, is composed of 96% Tempranillo and 4% Merlot.
Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Unico 2013, Ribera del Duero, is a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Oremus Aszú, 5 Puttonyos 2016, varieties include Furmint, Harsevelu, Zeta.
The next event, the diSHEd Lunch, was a celebration and conversation of food, wine, and women which saw the participation of some of my she-roes in the field of food and wine. Esteemed chefs such as Lindsay Autry, Maneet Chauhan, Valerie Chang, and Elizabeth Falkner graced the event, offering more than just the meals on their plates. They shared their personal experiences in their culinary journeys as women and responded to inquiries from an appreciative audience.
Following a much-deserved rest, I made my way to The Beach & Tennis Club at the Lodge at Pebble Beach for the California Coastal Pacific Feast, hosted by James Beard Award recipient Jeremiah Tower. The event, a walk-around tasting, felt like a personal episode of “Noël – this is your own California Life.” I had the pleasure of seeing some of my favourite chefs and friends such as Dustin Vallete from The Matheson, Michael Chang from the Foray, Matt Horn from Horn Barbecue, and Michael Rotondo from Coastal Kitchen.
The spirit brands present were all exceptional, but the one that stood out for me was The Art and Legacy of Tequila with Casa Obsidiana, scheduled for 10am. Jean-Charles Boisset, a legend renowned for his esteemed JCB Collection of wines and co-founder of Obsidiana, a premium tequila, had made an appearance. I hadn’t seen him for a few months, so I took the opportunity to jokingly tell him that “only you can get me to drink tequila at this time of the morning.” Francisco Quijano, one of just ten certified Master Tequileros globally, guided us through a taste testing of Casa Obsidiana’s three distinct tequilas: Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo. To sustain myself through the day, I had to consume about three bottles of Icelandic Glacial Water. Maybe next time we should create bespoke “Tequila at Ten” tees for anyone who comes along.
Tasting Pavilion at Pebble Beach Food and Wine
I’ve expressed this opinion before – imagine a food and wine festival without a Grand Tasting? The Tasting Pavilion embodies the essence of the Pebble Beach Food & Wine event. For two days (Saturday and Sunday), it gathers all festival attendees and workers under one roof. Elite chefs, genius winemakers, craft spirits, special event features, and music converge into a single spot for the indulgence of connoisseurs. If you aren’t able to attend the other events during the four-day celebration, this event provides a literal and figurative taste. I participated for about 90 minutes, which included some time spent developing my summer tan in the VIP Cabanas before I went back home.
The Happy Hour event, ‘Burgers, Bourbon, and Bordeaux’ was held at the fire pit on the back patio of The Inn at Spanish Bay. Culinary creations were provided by John Tesar, David Rose, Alvin Cailan, Leonard Botello IV, and Anna Marie Bayonito, making it challenging not to eat too much before the main dinner. But then I saw Keith Corbin of Alta Adams, grinning widely as he served brisket. I can’t deny I had my fair share. The presence of both bourbon and Bordeaux required I sample his dish with both separately.
After a small respite, I made my way to dinner. Being a big fan of Barbuto in NYC, I opted for the Quality Italian Dinner: A Feast with Culinary Masters hosted by Jonathan Waxman. Mixologist Jason Asher, along with chefs Giorgio Rapicavoli, Angela Tamura, and James Trees served up a five-course meal that had guests feeling like they were dining in Italy. Special kudos must go to Hue Society Sommelier of the Year Cassandra Felix and Beverage Director Molly Brooks, as the whole evening ran with clockwork precision.
My night concluded at the official After Hours: An Exclusive Late Night Event presented by Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits. Savoring cocktails, spirits, and wines from the ‘Southern G’ family while reflecting on the day with friends and colleagues was the perfect end-of-day pairing.
Sunday Jazz Brunch at Pebble Beach Food and Wine
Last day before heading home up the coast. It ended with a Michelin-starred chef at the Lodge at Pebble Beach’s Fairway 1 Complex, Rogelio Garcia of Auro in Napa Valley. Garcia was hosting To the South, With Love: A Southern Jazz Brunch. Patrons enjoyed crafted dishes by Peter Armellino, Rogelio Garcia, Angela Herrera, Jeffrey Jake, Barb Batiste, and Michael Chang, while grooving to live jazz music by Steve Lucky Trio.
Reflecting on this year’s Pebble Beach Food and Wine, the diversity observed did not merely enhance the event—it redefined it. It elevated a prestigious affair into a cultural celebration, showcasing the profound impact of inclusion. The flavors became more vivid, the conversations deeper, and the overall experience significantly more enriching. Diversity proved to be the secret ingredient that rendered this year’s gathering truly outstanding. Here’s to hoping that this formula continues to be embraced in the years ahead.
Pebble Beach Food and Wine returns April 10-13, 2025.
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