The past ten years have proven challenging for wine enthusiasts who appreciate a fine wine with their meal. The rise of Dry January and Sober October, along with the demand for ‘healthy’ low-sugar wines suitable for keto dieters, have been difficult trends to navigate. Even the suggestion of substituting wine with fermented tea like kombucha was floated around, much to the dismay of wine lovers. However, it seems there’s more ahead.

According to marketers and consultants in the wine industry, nonalcoholic wine could be the solution. They believe it could not only save the industry from health warnings issued by institutions such as the World Health Organization and U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention but also make wine more appealing to health-conscious young people. This could potentially give a much-needed boost to grape cultivation against the backdrop of a persistent decrease in demand over the last 15 years. They back these assertions with statistics indicating a rise in the sales of non-alcoholic wine and a decrease in young people choosing to drink alcohol. No amount of alcohol is safe to drink. Alcohol consumption has decreased by almost 14 percent in the past two decades.

While these numbers might be impressive, they hardly paint a complete picture of wine. They overlook its rich history, cultural significance and, most importantly, the sheer enjoyment of wine consumption. If I may say so, non-alcoholic wine seems to be a contradiction in terms. Wine’s essence is in its alcohol content, and removing that makes it, essentially, an odd concoction of grape juice.

Producing non-alcoholic wine involves elaborate and arguably unnecessary industrial processes which are time-consuming, expensive, and involve complex machinery. Thus, they hardly seem like the ideal solutions in these climate change-conscious times. The most common methods – vacuum distillation, reverse osmosis, and spinning (which involves separating the components of the liquid including alcohol through a series of spinning cones) – involve heating the grape juice to almost body temperature.

Why does wine need to contain alcohol, you might wonder? For the production process, it’s necessary for wine grapes to be fermented, becoming genuine wine before the alcohol can be taken out, yielding non-alcoholic (NA) wine. It’s an intriguing paradox, isn’t it?

The second point to grasp is that the majority of a wine’s flavour, character, and sensation on the palate derive from its alcohol content. Emulating these attributes calls for a series of complex substitutes. Wine’s delightful characteristics come about through fermentation, which converts grape sugar into alcohol. Remove the alcohol, and you end up with a beverage that has a likeness to wine but is not the same thing—it’s more than merely grape juice. In many cases, the output can be simple at best, herby and repelling at worst. And the endeavour is even more formidable for NA red wine, as red varieties generally have a heavier texture, possess more alcohol to be extracted, and require the replacement of more flavour.

The science behind this involves different compounds called esters, which contribute to wine’s flavour and fragrance. These are present in the alcohol post-fermentation. Therefore, they mostly disappear once the alcohol is eliminated. Hence, producers must supplement NA wines with other ingredients to reproduce flavour and sensation in the mouth, such as sugar for taste, and glycerol, a thick liquid present in shaving foam and toothpaste, for a similar mouthfeel.

So, how much sugar, which is considered one of the principal dietary culprits in the United States (accompanying salt, fat, and cholesterol)? The amount varies depending on the type of wine and grape utilised. Giesen in New Zealand, one of the world’s leading NA wine producers, makes a non-alcoholic riesling that contains 22 grams of sugar per serving. That’s roughly one-third more per serving than a conventional riesling. While it may not necessarily be less “healthy,” it does present a sort of irony.

Wine’s existence owes to fermentation – to alcohol – providing a safe and reliable drink during the thousands of years prior to modern food preservation like pasteurization. Ancients like the Greeks and Romans regularly indulged in wine, not to simply revel in intoxication but due to its being a safer choice compared to the contaminated, choleric, dysentery-causing, and typhoid-laced water of their times. While our current water sources are substantially safer, it hardly seems fair to forgo a refreshing glass of rosé in warmer climates.

Let’s be clear that the intention here isn’t advocating extreme drinking or consumption when it’s not desired or advisable. Instead, as per Californian winemaker Jon McPherson,”Moderation isn’t complicated. It’s club soda with a lime twist”. So, how did we arrive at the situation where relaxed drinking, embodied by Non-Alcoholic (NA) wine, depends on such an mount of techno-industrial complexities?

This can possibly be attributed to the American propensity for scientific shortcuts as solutions to problems that would otherwise necessitate serious thought. If replacing full-sugar drinks with saccharin and aspartame, or tricking our minds into believing that a carefully constructed meatless burger equals cardiac health has worked, why not opt for wine devoid of alcohol? That would lead to eternal life, right? The simplicity of reducing soft drink or beef intake apparently eludes us. Where’s the fun in that?

Intriguingly, this thirst for perpetual life could be a factor behind the surge in NA wine trend. Jeff Slankard, the wine and beer manager for an upscale grocery chain called Barons Market in Southern California, observed that the stores with the highest NA wine sales had older customers, on average. The expectation was that the younger crowd consuming less alcohol would make up the majority of the market. The surprising outcome makes sense upon reflection considering the health-conscious disposition of their older clientele.

One final contradiction: No one, in any of the marketing literature for NA wine, claims that the stuff is actually better for us than real wine. Yes, it has fewer calories and no alcohol (dubious measures of healthiness, especially out of context), but anything beyond those limited points would run afoul of federal regulations. To claim broader benefits would require scientific studies and developing guidelines based on those studies. This is a process usually reserved for blockbuster drugs, not something to drink with dinner. Would that consumers understood that NA wine is not medicine.

The true believers will scoff at this, being true believers, but it’s possible to drink real wine, get low alcohol, and enjoy what you’re drinking. Hundreds and hundreds of options exist, and they have for years—and learning about them is as simple as a Google search. Know, too, that the amount of alcohol is listed on every bottle by law, so finding low-alcohol wines does not require a degree in winemaking. Most vinho verdes, a Portuguese white, are 9 percent alcohol or less. Riesling can be as low as 6 percent, and it’s even sweet for those who appreciate that. I drink rosés and whites from southwestern France, and the alcohol is about 10 percent. No, none of those are zero, but most of the wines in that list have close to one-third less alcohol than the typical California red. And best of all, they taste like wine and can be drunk with as much moderation as you please.

Finally, a little perspective: Aaron E. Carroll, who teaches at the Indiana University School of Medicine, wrote in an assessment of alcohol science that “15 desserts a day would be bad for you. This could lead to assertions that ‘there’s no safe amount of dessert.’ But it doesn’t mean you should never, ever eat dessert.” As it is with whipped cream, so let it be with wine.