Wine 1004

Wine enthusiasts have been exposed to alarming news regarding the industry in recent years, with concerns about declining consumption, diminished production, climate change, and tariffs. However, the wine scene in Atlanta tells a different story, marked by a notable increase in wine bar openings.

In 2025 alone, two acclaimed chefs from Atlanta have introduced ambitious wine bars to the city’s culinary landscape. Steven Satterfield of Miller Union recently opened Madeira Park in Poncey-Highland alongside sommelier Tim Willard, while chef Terry Koval launched Fawn, emphasizing European wines and Italian amaro in Decatur.

Beyond these newcomers, Side Saddle Wine Saloon is set to open in Boulevard Heights later this month, augmenting the expanding wine landscape. Additionally, local wine entrepreneurs Jessena and Michael Waldo have established a tasting room for their Divinely Elegant Vines brand in Austell.

In recent years, several more wine-centric establishments have opened, including Commune in Avondale Estates and Marietta Proper on Marietta Square. Marietta Proper even received a James Beard Award semifinalist nomination for the Best New Bar.

Both Satterfield and Koval are committed to emphasizing wine in their new ventures, seeing metro Atlanta diners show a keen interest in high-quality wines from smaller producers. Despite the prevalent anxiety surrounding the wine industry, experts indicate a disconnection between these gloomy forecasts and the vibrant wine scene in Atlanta.

Various industry professionals, including Perrine Prieur Gallardo, owner of Perrine’s Wine, noted that the larger wine producers bear the brunt of the industry’s challenges, while opportunities abound for smaller establishments. Young consumers are increasingly valuing wine quality, with interests shifting toward natural and organic options.

Tariffs, while a concern for many, have not deterred new ventures. Previous tariff scenarios during the Trump administration had already prepared the industry for potential price increases. Carson Demmond, owner of Rive Gauche Wine Company, observed that businesses have developed resilience strategies to navigate such obstacles.

Despite their struggles, the U.S. wine market remains substantial, with nearly 900 million gallons consumed in 2023 alone, and total wine sales surpassing $106 billion. Gallardo and Travis point to a noticeable rise in customer interest toward smaller, artisanal wine labels and a deeper awareness of the wine industry, suggesting that the Atlanta wine scene could indeed flourish amidst the challenges faced by the overarching industry.

Big Salt, a co-fermented white wine from Oregon, has steadily gained a reputation among wine enthusiasts but is now poised for major growth in popularity.

My first encounter with Big Salt occurred at The Kingstide in South Carolina, where I was drawn to a glass of this unique wine to pair with oysters. Initially taken aback by its floral and fruity aromas, I was soon captivated by a surprising burst of salinity and zest upon tasting it. My intrigue led me to delve deeper into the brand, discovering its underground following likened to a secret club among wine aficionados.

Vonda Freeman, director of beverage programs at The Indigo Road Hospitality Group, recalls her first experience with Big Salt during a wine tasting. The wine captivated her so much that she wanted to relive the moment, appreciating its beauty and expressiveness.

Big Salt was introduced in 2016 by John House and his wife Ksenija Kostic House as part of their Ovum brand, which was established in 2011. John was inspired to create this wine after discovering co-fermented wines in Spain, leading him to realize that he could experiment with blending grapes from different vineyards.

Influenced by a conversation with winemaker Raul Perez about the potential of co-fermentation, John began to develop his vision. After experimenting with various blends, he noted how co-fermentation produced a more complex and aromatic wine—akin to recording a live music performance rather than simply piecing tracks together.

Big Salt is crafted from high-quality grapes sourced from premium vineyards, yet it retails for just $20, making it accessible while still maintaining quality. The brand has further expanded its offerings with PNK Salt and Big Salt Orange Rosé, yet it continues to evoke knowing smiles and admiration among industry insiders.

Freeman aptly summarizes the essence of Ovum’s creations: just as listening to AM radio in stereo connects you to the roots of music, Big Salt captures the attention and palate of its drinkers through its unique profile.

Canada’s recent boycott of American-made wine, in response to tariffs imposed by the Trump administration, has severely impacted the U.S. wine industry. Robert Koch, president and CEO of the California Wine Institute, emphasized that Canada is crucial for U.S. wine exports, accounting for over $1.1 billion in annual sales.

The boycott, which started in Ontario and spread across all provinces, involved removing American wines from shelves and restaurants. Manitoba Premier Wab Kinew humorously criticized Trump’s executive order through a social media video, declaring the order to pull American products from the market a "wonderful" initiative.

Mike Kaiser of Wine America remarked that the wine industry feels caught in the crossfire of a trade dispute and fears the psychological effects of the tariffs will have a long-lasting impact on consumer behavior. Even a complete reversal of the tariffs might not alleviate the damage, leading to concerns over achieving previous sales levels.

Before the tariffs, the U.S. wine business was already grappling with challenges such as a decline in wine consumption post-COVID-19 and increased competition from alternative alcoholic beverages like seltzers. Seasonal visitors to wineries and rising inflation have further complicated the economic landscape, making it cost-prohibitive for many to enjoy wine.

Napa Valley winery CEO Christi Coors Ficeli noted that inflation has greatly increased operational costs, forcing many wineries to raise prices, which deters potential visitors. Additionally, the tariffs have escalated costs of materials essential for winemaking, such as bottles and barrels, with some barrel suppliers predicting price increases of up to 20%.

Scott Osborn, owner of Fox Run Vineyards in New York, reported a significant drop in Canadian sales, which he attributes to the tariffs. He expressed concern over the broader implications these tariffs could have on tourism and European interest in American wines.

Kaiser advocates for targeted tariff policies to prevent industries like wine from suffering collateral damage in broader trade disputes. He urges the administration to engage in discussions with wine representatives to address the ongoing challenges.

As the conflict continues, the prospect of recovery for the U.S. wine industry appears increasingly grim, with the ramifications of policies still unfolding.

Wine from Southern Colorado is now featured at Yellowstone National Park, marking a significant achievement for the state’s wine industry.

The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey, launched by Catholic monks in Cañon City over two decades ago and now owned by Larry Oddo, has created history by being the first Colorado winemaker to expand its reach nationally in a wholesale capacity. Oddo expressed the magnitude of this accomplishment as it allows for recognition beyond state lines, with their wines being included in menus at eight lodges and restaurants across Yellowstone, including the iconic Old Faithful Inn. The selected offerings include a Merlot, Syrah, and a unique red blend known as The Theurgist, which leveraged the expertise of a winery sales consultant for placement.

Among these, the 2022 Merlot features grapes from Palisade on Colorado’s Western Slope and presents a mid to full-bodied profile with rich flavors of baked cherry and plum, ideally complementing red meats and cheeses. The 2020 Petite Syrah, sourced from Washington’s Columbia Valley, is described by Oddo as embodying the character of a French Rhone Valley wine, boasting big fruit flavors balanced with oak and spice, ideally suited for wild game meats.

The Theurgist, part of the winery’s “As Above So Below” collection, has a light, fruit-driven style, reminiscent of Chianti or Pinot Noir, blending various grape varieties, including Petite Pearl, cultivated to withstand challenges posed by climate change.

Although only a small percentage of grapes used at the winery are locally sourced due to Southern Colorado’s cooler climate, Oddo notes that some brave local grape growers are experimenting with cultivation along the Arkansas River, producing wines like the Wild Canyon Harvest made from blends of different grape types.

The expansion into Yellowstone comes as a response to challenges faced in the wine market, particularly due to a recent state law allowing liquor sales that have shifted significant market share towards grocery stores and affected independent liquor shops. Oddo anticipates that this park sale could provide crucial support for their winery amid changing consumer preferences.

The winery is expected to produce around 6,000 cases this year, a drop from the 11,000 cases in past years, impacted by the broader market fluctuations and decreased tourism. Through creating an inviting environment, Oddo aims to ensure all patrons, regardless of their wine knowledge, can find something enjoyable to take home.

For more information, visit The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey.

Stepan Baghdassarian, the president of Rio Joe’s Brands, transitioned from a 14-year law career to the wine industry in 2005. His passion for wine stems from its natural variability and cultural significance, which he believes fosters connections among people.

Based in Van Nuys, Baghdassarian’s company specializes in niche e-commerce platforms like WinesOfArmenia.com and the upcoming WinesOfGeorgia.com. These sites focus on importing and distributing specific regional wines directly to consumers across the United States.

Initially, Baghdassarian faced challenges competing against larger companies as a generalist in the online wine market. However, his strategic pivot towards specialization has positioned Rio Joe’s as a go-to source for Armenian and Georgian wines, which he attributes to the company’s success.

He emphasizes the importance of learning from mistakes and adapting to market changes. For aspiring entrepreneurs, Baghdassarian offers key advice: stay focused, seek mentorship, avoid negativity, be ready to pivot, and practice delayed gratification.

For more insights from innovators in various industries, visit Innovators Unplugged.

A Taste of Tradition and Exploration: Taraji P. Henson’s Culinary Journey

Taraji P. Henson reflects on her nostalgic childhood experiences associated with food, evoking memories of her grandparents’ home in the South. She recalls the joy of cracking open a watermelon and the sweet, refreshing juice running down her arms, while bees buzzed around her. Her upbringing in North Carolina and Maryland was filled with the essence of farm life—one set of grandparents raised livestock, and the other cultivated a produce garden, living off the land.

One of her cherished memories is her grandmother’s special barbecue chicken, distinct to the Carolinas. Unlike traditional barbecue, it’s pickled, utilizing vinegar to marinate the chicken, which is cooked low and slow until tender. “It’s almost like pulled pork,” she notes, emphasizing that while many family members can replicate the dish, nobody quite matches Grandma’s original recipe. Meals were often accompanied by collard greens, which she affectionately calls “salad,” along with either mashed potatoes or rice. Her grandmother also makes a beloved Brunswick stew outdoors in a cauldron, a tradition that continues even at the age of 100.

Traveling to Rome, Henson was delighted by the authenticity of the local cuisine. She savored the pleasure of enjoying fresh bread, pasta, and pizza without the guilt or discomfort of bloating, due to the absence of preservatives. "It felt like being back in my grandmother’s kitchen," she shares, highlighting how every meal felt crafted with love. One particularly memorable experience in Capri was dining at Da Paolino Lemon Trees, where the ambience of lemon trees and fresh seafood was captivating.

Henson’s culinary adventures extended to Bali, where she marveled at the innovative vegan cuisine. Dishes featuring jackfruit were so convincingly savory that she felt as though she were indulging in steak. At Gdas Bali Health and Wellness Resort, she discovered papaya sushi, astonishingly prepared to mimic the flavors of fish, showing the potential of fresh produce in plant-based cooking.

On the topic of beverages, Henson promotes her collaboration with Seven Daughters, particularly their Moscato wine. She describes it as a versatile drink that is approachable for newcomers to wine, and she enjoys crafting cocktails with it. A favorite recipe includes mixing it with pineapple and coconut juice, shaved coconut, and fresh pineapple for a refreshing tropical treat she calls ‘Tarajiritas’.

For more information about Seven Daughters Moscato, visit Seven Daughters.

South Africa’s wine industry is witnessing a transformative shift, largely driven by winemakers of color who are forging new paths and creating distinctive brands. Historically, it is rare to find a bottle of South African wine produced by someone from a marginalized background, but recent efforts are changing that dynamic.

The Cape Winemakers Guild (CWG) Protegé programme has emerged as a beacon of hope, providing opportunities for young, disadvantaged South Africans to train under the guidance of established winemakers. This initiative has led to the success of several notable figures, like Kiara Scott Farmer, who received the 2024 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year award.

Rudger van Wyk, a CWG alumnus who founded his own brand called New Dawn, reflects on the progress made since 2020: "Back then, there were only a handful in serious roles. Now there are almost double that." The personal stories of these pioneering winemakers highlight their resilience and ambition. Berene Sauls, for instance, transitioned from working as an au pair in a leading wine region to creating her brand, Tesselaarsdal, which features a Burgundian-style pinot noir. Praisy Dlamini has made a mark by launching Her winery, staffed completely by Black women.

While these young winemakers are passionate about traditional grape varieties and styles, they emphasize that their success should not solely define them as winemakers of color. "Just because you’re a person of color… you still have a responsibility to put a good product into the bottle," explains Rudger, noting the challenges faced by those without a familial farming background.

Barriers still exist, particularly regarding land ownership and access to quality fruit, as highlighted by Mags Janjo, a Black importer of South African wines. This historical and socio-economic context makes it exceedingly difficult for anyone, especially those from marginalized backgrounds, to penetrate the industry. Nevertheless, the commitment of Black South African winemakers to uplift their peers is commendable. “South Africa is a diverse community, and we should celebrate it,” Rudger states, recognizing his role in supporting the next generation.

Wines to Try

• Amandla Our Future Sauvignon Blanc 2023/24 – A zesty sauvignon blanc by Praisy Dlamini’s team, perfect for pairing with seafood. £9.50.
• Kara Tara Chardonnay 2022 – A creamy chardonnay influenced by Burgundian techniques, ideal for rich dishes. £24.49.
• Brookdale Sixteen Field Blend 2023 – An elegant white wine by Kiara Scott Farmer, versatile for various pairings. £26.99.
• Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir 2023 – A refined pinot noir from Berene Sauls, excellent with roast duck. £46.
• M’hudi Family Boutique Pinotage 2021 – A bold red from South Africa’s first Black-owned wine farm, great for barbecues. £22.99.

This vibrant evolution of South Africa’s wine scene signifies a promising future shaped by diversity and innovation.

Adam Williams, the owner of Ansley Wine Merchants in Atlanta, is preparing for significant challenges as new tariffs imposed by the Trump administration come into effect. The 20% tariff on goods from the European Union is expected to dramatically raise the prices of imported wines and spirits, including popular choices like a 2023 vintage Sancerre from France, which currently sells for $45. Williams expressed concern about the impact these tariffs will have, stating, "That means everything will go up."

The National Association of Wine Retailers recently forecasted "significant revenue reductions, layoffs, and business closings" due to these tariffs, which could lead to a 20% drop in sales of French wines and spirits. Small businesses that rely heavily on imported wines are already feeling the repercussions. Williams, who stocks around 1,500 labels primarily from small family-owned vineyards in Europe, noted that shipments have slowed as suppliers are in "wait-and-see" mode, fearing the worst.

Ryan Stanton, general manager of Ultimate Wine Distributors, also highlighted the uncertainty facing the industry. He pointed out that while there is a theoretical benefit to promoting American-made products, many wines that satisfy customer preferences simply cannot be produced domestically. With shipments blocked and prices projected to rise, both Stanton and Williams worry about the future of their businesses and the livelihoods of their employees.

In summary, as tariffs go into effect, the wine industry, particularly small retailers, faces the possibility of increased costs, decreased sales, and operational challenges, raising concerns about the sustainability of many local businesses in this sector.

Last month, President Donald Trump announced a significant change in U.S. tariffs affecting wines imported from the European Union. Initially threatening a 200% tariff, the administration ultimately opted for a 20% tariff on all EU goods, including wine. This decision is causing concern within the U.S. wine industry, which heavily relies on European imports.

Damien Carney, owner of Avinage wine shop in Petaluma, California, relies on imported wines for 75% of his stock. He fears that the tariffs will force him to raise prices or alter his business model entirely, as his customer base prefers European wines over domestic options. Carney notes, "Simply giving them a wine from Sonoma County or Paso Robles is not going to be the same as the wines that they know and love."

The timing of the tariffs poses additional challenges for the wine sector, already facing declining sales. A report from Silicon Valley Bank highlighted a downturn in interest from younger consumers and the competition posed by beverages like hard seltzer.

Ben Aneff from the U.S. Wine Trade Alliance emphasizes the financial strain the tariffs will impose, stating that around $4.5 billion in imported EU wine generates about $25 billion in revenue for U.S. businesses. The impact will affect not just retailers but also restaurants that rely on imported wines for profitable margins.

Interestingly, domestic wineries are not immune to the fallout. John Benedetti, owner of Sante Arcangeli winery in California, has already been dealing with high tariffs on materials from China and Mexico, including barrels sourced from France. He expressed frustration after losing a significant opportunity to enter the Canadian market due to reciprocal tariffs affecting U.S. products.

As these tariffs come into effect, U.S. wine businesses—both importers and domestic producers—are bracing for an uncertain economic landscape.

A historic Tuscan wine vertical recently took place at Christie’s Auction House in New York City, celebrating three decades of Tenuta Luce’s Luce della Vite wines. The event highlighted the collaboration of two iconic wine families: Frescobaldi and Mondavi. These families, with deep roots in Tuscany and Napa Valley, have successfully blended two distinct grape varieties—Sangiovese and Merlot—creating wines that exemplify this partnership.

Amid a backdrop of a stunning film that showcased the enchanting Montalcino vineyards, wine professionals gathered to taste various vintages under the guidance of winemaker Alessandro Marini. The event demonstrated how these two opposing grape types could harmoniously coexist, particularly under the expertise of the Frescobaldi family, which boasts over 700 years of winemaking history, and the Mondavi family, known for their innovation.

During the vertical tasting, attendees explored a range of vintages, numbering from the initial 1994 release to the newly released 2022 vintage. The wines reflected their unique circumstances, with standout years like 2009, 2015, and 2016 exhibiting exceptional quality. Even the more challenging 2002 vintage surprised tasters, showcasing the ability of great producers to maintain high quality across different years.

The Luce estate, situated in the warmer southwestern region of Montalcino, benefits from a remarkable temperature swing that contributes to the ripeness and flavor of the grapes. The combination of schist soil for Sangiovese and clay-rich terroir for Merlot allows for optimal growing conditions, resulting in wines that are both nuanced and elegant.

The event at Christie’s, embellished with exquisite art displayed throughout, paired perfectly with the wines crafted by these pioneering families. Each vintage tasted conveyed a story of meticulous craftsmanship, tradition, and a commitment to excellence that will undoubtedly continue for years to come.

For more about Tenuta Luce and their wines, visit Tenuta Luce.