South Africa’s wine industry is witnessing a transformative shift, largely driven by winemakers of color who are forging new paths and creating distinctive brands. Historically, it is rare to find a bottle of South African wine produced by someone from a marginalized background, but recent efforts are changing that dynamic.

The Cape Winemakers Guild (CWG) Protegé programme has emerged as a beacon of hope, providing opportunities for young, disadvantaged South Africans to train under the guidance of established winemakers. This initiative has led to the success of several notable figures, like Kiara Scott Farmer, who received the 2024 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year award.

Rudger van Wyk, a CWG alumnus who founded his own brand called New Dawn, reflects on the progress made since 2020: "Back then, there were only a handful in serious roles. Now there are almost double that." The personal stories of these pioneering winemakers highlight their resilience and ambition. Berene Sauls, for instance, transitioned from working as an au pair in a leading wine region to creating her brand, Tesselaarsdal, which features a Burgundian-style pinot noir. Praisy Dlamini has made a mark by launching Her winery, staffed completely by Black women.

While these young winemakers are passionate about traditional grape varieties and styles, they emphasize that their success should not solely define them as winemakers of color. "Just because you’re a person of color… you still have a responsibility to put a good product into the bottle," explains Rudger, noting the challenges faced by those without a familial farming background.

Barriers still exist, particularly regarding land ownership and access to quality fruit, as highlighted by Mags Janjo, a Black importer of South African wines. This historical and socio-economic context makes it exceedingly difficult for anyone, especially those from marginalized backgrounds, to penetrate the industry. Nevertheless, the commitment of Black South African winemakers to uplift their peers is commendable. “South Africa is a diverse community, and we should celebrate it,” Rudger states, recognizing his role in supporting the next generation.

Wines to Try

• Amandla Our Future Sauvignon Blanc 2023/24 – A zesty sauvignon blanc by Praisy Dlamini’s team, perfect for pairing with seafood. £9.50.
• Kara Tara Chardonnay 2022 – A creamy chardonnay influenced by Burgundian techniques, ideal for rich dishes. £24.49.
• Brookdale Sixteen Field Blend 2023 – An elegant white wine by Kiara Scott Farmer, versatile for various pairings. £26.99.
• Tesselaarsdal Pinot Noir 2023 – A refined pinot noir from Berene Sauls, excellent with roast duck. £46.
• M’hudi Family Boutique Pinotage 2021 – A bold red from South Africa’s first Black-owned wine farm, great for barbecues. £22.99.

This vibrant evolution of South Africa’s wine scene signifies a promising future shaped by diversity and innovation.