Pebble Beach Food & Wine took place April 4-7, 2024

After a long break that was palpable to gastronomes and vinophiles, the proclamation that Pebble Beach Food and Wine was making a spectacular comeback in 2024 sparked mixed reactions for me. On one side, it was one of the leading food and wine festivals in the U.S., recognized for a level of grandeur and star attraction that is only challenged by Aspen Food and Wine. As someone that covers food and wine, it should have been an obvious choice to participate. However, my identity as a BIPOC gave me a moment to reflect. I’ve been to Pebble Beach Food and Wine before the break and under the previous management. To say the least, the most color I’ve seen in these gatherings is in the wine glasses, not represented by the people holding them. As mentioned before, my apprehension wasn’t about the culinary arts; the names of Maneet Chauhan and Stephanie Izard had me sold. It wasn’t about the wine; with brands like Bouchaine, Laurent-Perrier, Kosta Browne among the list. It also wasn’t about The Inn at Spanish Bay at Pebble Beach. The issue was a disregard for diversity and inclusion. How would the festival’s new leadership tackle this? Upon knowing about a couple of key partnerships, it was clear that they had addressed this in a significant way!

Even before the official reveal of talent, brands, and seminars, two things stood out to me and ultimately determined my attendance, after my initial reservations. The first was the participation of A21, a marketing production company founded by CEO Brett Friedman. Friedman’s company has a history of managing festivals of this size with annual events such as Atlanta Food & Wine, South Beach Food & Wine, and Whiskies of the World Tour. I have attended several of A21 events, so I understand the level at which his team conducts these events. A21 events always have a variety of activities and, more importantly, a diversity of attendees. Perhaps it’s the demographics of the A21 staff, including the leadership. Or maybe it’s the locations of the events. Talking to Friedman, it became clear that it’s his overall strategy. While all businesses appreciate money, do they value diversity at the same time? A21 has shown that they indeed do!

This brings me to the second reason, The Roots Fund. Led by Ikimi Dubose-Woodson and Carlton McCoy, their mission is to “nourish and enrich the lives of communities of color in the wine industry.” Although the mission is simple to describe, figuring out how to cooperate and incorporate BIPOC is a bit more complicated. More often than not, we see symbolic gestures used as a checkbox. A personal “favorite” is hiring a Chief Diversity Officer quickly, almost as if that would solve all diversity issues in an instant. But then a decade later, the same company shows minimal improvement in diversity, especially at the executive level. This is not what Dubose-Woodson and McCoy stand for. Knowing them and their work intimately, I can confidently say that they do not associate with those who make empty gestures but instead with those who perform. Meaning, they provide real opportunities for BIPOC communities to show what we are capable of and to be rewarded for it (They appreciate the green too!).

“Pebble Beach Food & Wine has been a staple in food and beverage for years. Looking at the list of chefs, brands, and partners, inclusivity is being paired with luxury. The Roots Fund is representative of an inclusive beverage space, so to be involved as the wine direction team shows the industry changing before our eyes. Pebble Beach Food & Wine is a changemaker in hospitality.” – Ikimi Dubose-Woodson, CEO of The Roots Fund

Dubose-Woodson, McCoy, and her team were involved in almost every facet of the festival which is the true partnership communities of color have been ready for.

Pebble Food and Wine brought back many of festival goers’ favorite activities and seminars. Patrons who purchased a Diamond Package (three package types: Diamond, Platinum, and Gold) had the opportunity to play on the legendary #1 public golf course for 18 holes. Later that evening the festival kicked off with Coast to Coast with The James Beard Foundation: Opening Night. All ticket holders had the opportunity to sample cuisine from James Beard Award winners and nominees like Justin Sutherland of Northern Soul, Brandon Jew of Mister Jew’s, Reem’s Assil of Reem’s California, and several more.

Keith Corbin of Alta Adams at James Beard Opening Night Event

The first night was highlighted by a seminar titled “Nick Gislason on Flavor,” which was hosted by FINE+RARE. Those who are wine lovers may recognize the name Nick Gislason. He holds the role of Director of Winemaking at Screaming Eagle and the Technical Director of Lopez Island Community Fireworks. Additionally, he is the co-founder of Hanabi Lager, a brewery in Napa, CA. The name Hanabi originates from the Japanese word for firework. Despite his technical training in winemaking, Gislason shared that his approach is more flavor-based, heavily relying on taste, sight, and smell, which he believes are the most acute instruments for winemaking and brewing.

Next was “Wines Views” at the Pebble Beach Golf Course located at The Lodge at Pebble Beach.

Friday was a busy day filled with events at The Inn at Spanish Bay and the sister property, The Lodge at Pebble Beach. Shuttles were available for transportation between the properties. However, due to the need to be in multiple places at the same time, I relied on the official automotive partner, Volvo. They provided courtesy rides in their hybrid or fully electric SUVs, which ensured timely arrival and maximized the experience.

The morning began with an Introduction to Tempos Vega Sicilia and Tempranillo, where various Spanish wines were showcased:

Oremus Mandolas 2020, Furmint

Bodegas Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia, Macán 2018, Rioja 100% Tempranillo

Bodegas Pintia, Pintia 2018, Toro 100% Tempranillo

Bodegas Alion, Alion 2019, Ribera Del Duero 100% Tempranillo

Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Valbuena 2017, Ribera del Duero, is composed of 96% Tempranillo and 4% Merlot.

Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Unico 2013, Ribera del Duero, is a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Oremus Aszú, 5 Puttonyos 2016, varieties include Furmint, Harsevelu, Zeta.

The next event, the diSHEd Lunch, was a celebration and conversation of food, wine, and women which saw the participation of some of my she-roes in the field of food and wine. Esteemed chefs such as Lindsay Autry, Maneet Chauhan, Valerie Chang, and Elizabeth Falkner graced the event, offering more than just the meals on their plates. They shared their personal experiences in their culinary journeys as women and responded to inquiries from an appreciative audience.

Following a much-deserved rest, I made my way to The Beach & Tennis Club at the Lodge at Pebble Beach for the California Coastal Pacific Feast, hosted by James Beard Award recipient Jeremiah Tower. The event, a walk-around tasting, felt like a personal episode of “Noël – this is your own California Life.” I had the pleasure of seeing some of my favourite chefs and friends such as Dustin Vallete from The Matheson, Michael Chang from the Foray, Matt Horn from Horn Barbecue, and Michael Rotondo from Coastal Kitchen.

The spirit brands present were all exceptional, but the one that stood out for me was The Art and Legacy of Tequila with Casa Obsidiana, scheduled for 10am. Jean-Charles Boisset, a legend renowned for his esteemed JCB Collection of wines and co-founder of Obsidiana, a premium tequila, had made an appearance. I hadn’t seen him for a few months, so I took the opportunity to jokingly tell him that “only you can get me to drink tequila at this time of the morning.” Francisco Quijano, one of just ten certified Master Tequileros globally, guided us through a taste testing of Casa Obsidiana’s three distinct tequilas: Blanco, Reposado, and Añejo. To sustain myself through the day, I had to consume about three bottles of Icelandic Glacial Water. Maybe next time we should create bespoke “Tequila at Ten” tees for anyone who comes along.

Tasting Pavilion at Pebble Beach Food and Wine

I’ve expressed this opinion before – imagine a food and wine festival without a Grand Tasting? The Tasting Pavilion embodies the essence of the Pebble Beach Food & Wine event. For two days (Saturday and Sunday), it gathers all festival attendees and workers under one roof. Elite chefs, genius winemakers, craft spirits, special event features, and music converge into a single spot for the indulgence of connoisseurs. If you aren’t able to attend the other events during the four-day celebration, this event provides a literal and figurative taste. I participated for about 90 minutes, which included some time spent developing my summer tan in the VIP Cabanas before I went back home.

The Happy Hour event, ‘Burgers, Bourbon, and Bordeaux’ was held at the fire pit on the back patio of The Inn at Spanish Bay. Culinary creations were provided by John Tesar, David Rose, Alvin Cailan, Leonard Botello IV, and Anna Marie Bayonito, making it challenging not to eat too much before the main dinner. But then I saw Keith Corbin of Alta Adams, grinning widely as he served brisket. I can’t deny I had my fair share. The presence of both bourbon and Bordeaux required I sample his dish with both separately.

After a small respite, I made my way to dinner. Being a big fan of Barbuto in NYC, I opted for the Quality Italian Dinner: A Feast with Culinary Masters hosted by Jonathan Waxman. Mixologist Jason Asher, along with chefs Giorgio Rapicavoli, Angela Tamura, and James Trees served up a five-course meal that had guests feeling like they were dining in Italy. Special kudos must go to Hue Society Sommelier of the Year Cassandra Felix and Beverage Director Molly Brooks, as the whole evening ran with clockwork precision.

My night concluded at the official After Hours: An Exclusive Late Night Event presented by Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits. Savoring cocktails, spirits, and wines from the ‘Southern G’ family while reflecting on the day with friends and colleagues was the perfect end-of-day pairing.

Sunday Jazz Brunch at Pebble Beach Food and Wine

Last day before heading home up the coast. It ended with a Michelin-starred chef at the Lodge at Pebble Beach’s Fairway 1 Complex, Rogelio Garcia of Auro in Napa Valley. Garcia was hosting To the South, With Love: A Southern Jazz Brunch. Patrons enjoyed crafted dishes by Peter Armellino, Rogelio Garcia, Angela Herrera, Jeffrey Jake, Barb Batiste, and Michael Chang, while grooving to live jazz music by Steve Lucky Trio.

Reflecting on this year’s Pebble Beach Food and Wine, the diversity observed did not merely enhance the event—it redefined it. It elevated a prestigious affair into a cultural celebration, showcasing the profound impact of inclusion. The flavors became more vivid, the conversations deeper, and the overall experience significantly more enriching. Diversity proved to be the secret ingredient that rendered this year’s gathering truly outstanding. Here’s to hoping that this formula continues to be embraced in the years ahead.

Pebble Beach Food and Wine returns April 10-13, 2025.

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Mustard flowers in the vineyards of Napa Valley

At a train station, panic ensued as two men were tragically killed. Among the dead was a pillar of their community, JC Weinberger. This untimely death left a void which was filled by his wife, Hannah Weinberger. She took over as director of the Bank of St. Helena in Napa Valley. More so, she became the first acknowledged female winemaker in California, managing the olive tree grove and vineyards on their terraced hillsides.

Central dome of the Machine Gallery at the 1889 World’s Fair in Paris. Artist Louis Beroud.

In 1889, Hannah journeyed to Europe for the Paris World’s Fair and was awarded a silver medal in a wine contest. Her success spanned both as a businesswoman and winemaker. Despite all odds and the advent of Prohibition in 1920, she never remarried and had to pull out her vines.

Almost a century after termination of the vineyard, a couple recognising a place with immense potential for producing excellent Cabernet Sauvignon coupled with a rich historical authenticity replanted vines in 2019. This was after a strenuous journey that included buying the property in 2013 and waiting for a permit that only came through at the end of 2018. However, the overriding excitement was the chance to revitalize a superior vineyard that gave a woman an opportunity to prosper at a period in time when being a woman was considered a disadvantage. This also meant continuing the legacy of the first female vintner in Napa Valley to make superb wine.

Both husband and wife, Caren and Nick Orum, were undeterred by the magnitude of the task they had taken on. Self-proclaimed as two Jews from the South, Caren, born in a secluded region of Arkansas, and Nick, hailing from Austin, Texas, first moved to a more perilous New York City in the early nineties only to end up in San Francisco where they pursued their dream to produce incredible wine owing to Nick’s longstanding admiration of Bordeaux wine.

Caren and Nick Orum

In their pursuit, they stumbled upon a property in close proximity to two Napa Valley vineyards that had been the recipients of seven perfect 100-point scores from Wine Advocate, Vineyard 29 and Colgin’s Tychson Hill Vineyard- located north of the town of St. Helena. Consequently, they hired vineyard engineers to inspect the soils among other site conditions to establish the possibility of producing exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon. Every feedback undoubtedly verified that the site was definitely capable of matching the high prospects of its esteemed neighbors.

The concept for their wine, Arborum, was conceived. Arborum is a blend of the word ‘arbor’, signifying their intention to protect the environment on their land, and their surname.

Arborum’s Hidden Key Estate Vineyards

This property’s genuine history drew them in, owing to the rustic house initially built as a hunting lodge. This lodge has become one with the woods on their land, serving as their residence with their three children today. Surprisingly, a grove of over century-old olive trees, some reaching up to 50-feet tall, was found within that forest. These trees, marked with hand-forged square nails and antique metal stamps indicating their planting in the 1870s, had become one with the forest due to neglect. Unaware of these rare, heritage olive trees, Caren and Nick had set about clearing the underbrush on their 20-acre property with a slope of 26 degrees. The estate adjoins Spring Mountain, which has a natural spring flowing through the property and a rich biodiversity that aids in pest control with the presence of hawks, owls, and beneficial insects.

Oscar Renteria and his team at Renteria Vineyard Management were hired by Caren and Nick to meticulously manage their 2.5 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, which spans altitudes from 500 to 800 feet. With an approach that involved precise, hands-on management of each vine, they earned organic certification in 2021. However, they realized the necessity of finding the perfect winemaker who could bring out the unique characteristics of their historical site.

Winemaker Andy Erickson

Caren explained their choice of collaborating with some of the topmost winemakers in Napa Valley. Among all, they selected Andy Erickson, a name of high prestige with over 25 years of experience in the wine-making industry of Napa Valley. Known for his holistic methodologies, Andy emphasizes vineyard-focused practices, expressing the vine’s environment, and an abundance of experience with Cabernet Sauvignon vines in numerous premium sites in Napa Valley. Describing Arborum estate as “a real sweet spot”, Andy shares his perspective of being on any special land capable of producing something magical and his capability to create a wine reflecting this “special place.”

In the past, Hannah Weinberger, a renowned personality, had won a silver medal in Paris with her wine from this same wonderful property. However, due to prohibition laws, she had to uproot her vineyards. Gradually, the once-admired vineyard grew wild, more resembling a natural reserve. Co-owner Nick humorously suggests how, in his next life, he would prefer to buy a property that already has a vineyard due to the overwhelming time and effort in planting and maintaining it. However, this daunting challenge of restoration was taken up by Caren and Nick Orum.

Upon their initial property acquisition, Caren noticed a grand old oak tree in the middle of their driveway. This tree, like many others on the property, became a playful spot for their children aged four, seven, and ten. One day, their middle child found a peculiar old key apparently from Hannah’s era, in a secret compartment within the oak tree. This discovery led them to name their estate vineyards as ‘Hidden Key.’ However, within two days, the oak tree fell apart from the same place, a significant loss for Caren and Nick as they value every part of their property’s history.

As they stood there looking at the place where the majestic oak tree once proudly stood, knowing that it had lived through so much and seen so many changes, a feeling came over Caren. It was a sign. It was a sign that the property was making the transition to them, as they had been handed the key, and Hannah’s legacy would not be forgotten as they would take it from where she left off, almost 100 years later.

2022 Arborum Proprietary White & 2021 Arborum Proprietary Red

Arborum will have their inaugural release this Fall, in 2024, and the two wines that will initially be released are below, 2022 Proprietary White and 2021 Proprietary Red, with a 100% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon planned for release in a few years. They intend to make around 500 cases of wine annually.

Caren and Nick Orum are committing to donate one million dollars ahead of the launch to kick off their mission to give back to their community and protect the environment. Then, in the future, 100% of Arborum’s net earnings will go to charitable causes. They will divide it between 50% of people who live and work in Napa Valley, as they recognize that the wonderful wines that come out of Napa happen through hard work from people who struggle to survive, helping with social services and safety nets. The other 50% will be allocated to environmental causes with a conservation focus.

They’ve taken great care with their environmental practices on their property, conducting numerous soil studies and slope reports as part of their vineyard management assessments. Along with the mandatories, they carried out extra environmental studies, even checking for endangered northern spotted owls. If the property turns out to be a habitat for these owls, they aim to protect it, emphasizing their desire to maintain their land as a “wildlife thoroughfare,” especially considering the scarcity of such heavily forested properties in their neighborhood.

The Arborum wine labels cleverly pay tribute to their origins. There’s a tiny golden key in the center, and another one atop the capsule, signifying the link to an old key discovered in an oak tree on the property. The label also bears a woodcut impression at the bottom right, an artistic reference to a petrified stump found in their Hidden Key vineyard.

The 2022 Arborum, Proprietary White, from Napa Valley, California is a fine mix: 70% Sauvignon Blanc, and 30% Semillon, derived from the cool climate vineyards in Coombsville. It boasts a delightful bouquet of honeysuckle, white peach, and crushed rocks, with a fleshy fruit palate that’s brightened by lemon peel notes, significant acidity, and saline minerality. The introductory price is set at $125.

The 2021 Arborum, Proprietary Red, also from Napa Valley, California, is winning hearts with its purity. It’s a lively blend of 95% Cabernet Sauvignon from Arborum’s Hidden Key Vineyard and 5% Cabernet Franc from Pritchard Hill. There’s a lovely spectrum of fruit flavors – ranging from ripe black cherries to luminous red cranberries, mingled with blackcurrant leaves and cocoa powder. High energy on the palate is skillfully offset by dense black raspberry flavors, enriched by undertones of forest floor and volcanic rock, seamlessly woven together with refined tannins. The finish is long-lasting, enchanting with hints of violet aromas. The launch price stands at $265.

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The past ten years have proven challenging for wine enthusiasts who appreciate a fine wine with their meal. The rise of Dry January and Sober October, along with the demand for ‘healthy’ low-sugar wines suitable for keto dieters, have been difficult trends to navigate. Even the suggestion of substituting wine with fermented tea like kombucha was floated around, much to the dismay of wine lovers. However, it seems there’s more ahead.

According to marketers and consultants in the wine industry, nonalcoholic wine could be the solution. They believe it could not only save the industry from health warnings issued by institutions such as the World Health Organization and U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention but also make wine more appealing to health-conscious young people. This could potentially give a much-needed boost to grape cultivation against the backdrop of a persistent decrease in demand over the last 15 years. They back these assertions with statistics indicating a rise in the sales of non-alcoholic wine and a decrease in young people choosing to drink alcohol. No amount of alcohol is safe to drink. Alcohol consumption has decreased by almost 14 percent in the past two decades.

While these numbers might be impressive, they hardly paint a complete picture of wine. They overlook its rich history, cultural significance and, most importantly, the sheer enjoyment of wine consumption. If I may say so, non-alcoholic wine seems to be a contradiction in terms. Wine’s essence is in its alcohol content, and removing that makes it, essentially, an odd concoction of grape juice.

Producing non-alcoholic wine involves elaborate and arguably unnecessary industrial processes which are time-consuming, expensive, and involve complex machinery. Thus, they hardly seem like the ideal solutions in these climate change-conscious times. The most common methods – vacuum distillation, reverse osmosis, and spinning (which involves separating the components of the liquid including alcohol through a series of spinning cones) – involve heating the grape juice to almost body temperature.

Why does wine need to contain alcohol, you might wonder? For the production process, it’s necessary for wine grapes to be fermented, becoming genuine wine before the alcohol can be taken out, yielding non-alcoholic (NA) wine. It’s an intriguing paradox, isn’t it?

The second point to grasp is that the majority of a wine’s flavour, character, and sensation on the palate derive from its alcohol content. Emulating these attributes calls for a series of complex substitutes. Wine’s delightful characteristics come about through fermentation, which converts grape sugar into alcohol. Remove the alcohol, and you end up with a beverage that has a likeness to wine but is not the same thing—it’s more than merely grape juice. In many cases, the output can be simple at best, herby and repelling at worst. And the endeavour is even more formidable for NA red wine, as red varieties generally have a heavier texture, possess more alcohol to be extracted, and require the replacement of more flavour.

The science behind this involves different compounds called esters, which contribute to wine’s flavour and fragrance. These are present in the alcohol post-fermentation. Therefore, they mostly disappear once the alcohol is eliminated. Hence, producers must supplement NA wines with other ingredients to reproduce flavour and sensation in the mouth, such as sugar for taste, and glycerol, a thick liquid present in shaving foam and toothpaste, for a similar mouthfeel.

So, how much sugar, which is considered one of the principal dietary culprits in the United States (accompanying salt, fat, and cholesterol)? The amount varies depending on the type of wine and grape utilised. Giesen in New Zealand, one of the world’s leading NA wine producers, makes a non-alcoholic riesling that contains 22 grams of sugar per serving. That’s roughly one-third more per serving than a conventional riesling. While it may not necessarily be less “healthy,” it does present a sort of irony.

Wine’s existence owes to fermentation – to alcohol – providing a safe and reliable drink during the thousands of years prior to modern food preservation like pasteurization. Ancients like the Greeks and Romans regularly indulged in wine, not to simply revel in intoxication but due to its being a safer choice compared to the contaminated, choleric, dysentery-causing, and typhoid-laced water of their times. While our current water sources are substantially safer, it hardly seems fair to forgo a refreshing glass of rosé in warmer climates.

Let’s be clear that the intention here isn’t advocating extreme drinking or consumption when it’s not desired or advisable. Instead, as per Californian winemaker Jon McPherson,”Moderation isn’t complicated. It’s club soda with a lime twist”. So, how did we arrive at the situation where relaxed drinking, embodied by Non-Alcoholic (NA) wine, depends on such an mount of techno-industrial complexities?

This can possibly be attributed to the American propensity for scientific shortcuts as solutions to problems that would otherwise necessitate serious thought. If replacing full-sugar drinks with saccharin and aspartame, or tricking our minds into believing that a carefully constructed meatless burger equals cardiac health has worked, why not opt for wine devoid of alcohol? That would lead to eternal life, right? The simplicity of reducing soft drink or beef intake apparently eludes us. Where’s the fun in that?

Intriguingly, this thirst for perpetual life could be a factor behind the surge in NA wine trend. Jeff Slankard, the wine and beer manager for an upscale grocery chain called Barons Market in Southern California, observed that the stores with the highest NA wine sales had older customers, on average. The expectation was that the younger crowd consuming less alcohol would make up the majority of the market. The surprising outcome makes sense upon reflection considering the health-conscious disposition of their older clientele.

One final contradiction: No one, in any of the marketing literature for NA wine, claims that the stuff is actually better for us than real wine. Yes, it has fewer calories and no alcohol (dubious measures of healthiness, especially out of context), but anything beyond those limited points would run afoul of federal regulations. To claim broader benefits would require scientific studies and developing guidelines based on those studies. This is a process usually reserved for blockbuster drugs, not something to drink with dinner. Would that consumers understood that NA wine is not medicine.

The true believers will scoff at this, being true believers, but it’s possible to drink real wine, get low alcohol, and enjoy what you’re drinking. Hundreds and hundreds of options exist, and they have for years—and learning about them is as simple as a Google search. Know, too, that the amount of alcohol is listed on every bottle by law, so finding low-alcohol wines does not require a degree in winemaking. Most vinho verdes, a Portuguese white, are 9 percent alcohol or less. Riesling can be as low as 6 percent, and it’s even sweet for those who appreciate that. I drink rosés and whites from southwestern France, and the alcohol is about 10 percent. No, none of those are zero, but most of the wines in that list have close to one-third less alcohol than the typical California red. And best of all, they taste like wine and can be drunk with as much moderation as you please.

Finally, a little perspective: Aaron E. Carroll, who teaches at the Indiana University School of Medicine, wrote in an assessment of alcohol science that “15 desserts a day would be bad for you. This could lead to assertions that ‘there’s no safe amount of dessert.’ But it doesn’t mean you should never, ever eat dessert.” As it is with whipped cream, so let it be with wine.