I was on a trip in Oregon – see “Quick Sips” link – when the news broke that Ballast Point had decided to leave its enormous 107,000-square-foot brewery in the Miramar area of San Diego.
Presently under the ownership of Kings & Convicts, Ballast’s strategy is to lower expenses by carrying out beer production in smaller establishments. This might be a financially sound move, but it’s certainly a regrettable situation! The widely known Sculpin IPA originated here, and now we’re witnessing a well-loved, nationally-recognized brewery dwindling in size.
This is the most recent setback for our local beer aficionados. Just two years prior, we had as many as 144 artisan breweries operating at 232 locations. Now, the count has reduced to 126 breweries and 220 locations.
Vince Vasquez, an independent sector analyst, observes that “No brewery has been spared from the trials of changing consumer preferences, inflation, hikes in labor costs and cost of living, as well as heightened competition, especially for breweries with an expansive distribution network.”
Still, that’s a fair number of breweries. Are any taking steps to survive, and even thrive, in these turbulent times?
Absolutely.
Here’s Vasquez again: “Some of the breweries I see doing well are focused more on onsite consumption, frequently rotating taps and an elevated customer experience.”
He named Pure Project “as a great example of all this.”
Omar Passons, a fervent advocate of the craft beer society, praised Kelsey McNair’s North Park Beer.
“… the distinguishing factor for North Park Beer, apart from its superb beer is the genuineness and authenticity that mirrors its founder,” expressed Passons through an email. “He has always maintained his aim to be a good neighbor and contribute positively to the community. I believe that this aspect is crucial to his endurance.”
Julie Wartell, an instructor of the course, “Craft Beer and the Urban Economy” at UC San Diego, emphasized the necessity of cultivating a wide-ranging audience.
“Of course, good beer places are followed by beer fans, but successful ones manage to capture the attention of people who are not strictly beer enthusiasts,” she stated.
They host trivia nights, running clubs, alumni associations, concerts and other non-beery attractions. Breweries large (Stone and AleSmith) and small (Deft and Duck Foot) maintain busy calendars of events.
These days, craft beer requires as much craft as beer.
In good times and bad, San Diego beer is a sure bet.
The World Beer Cup, one of the largest beer competitions anywhere, took place last month in Las Vegas. Our breweries captured 14 medals, improving on the 12 nabbed at the previous WBC.
The winners:
Coronado Brewing: gold, Nado, “international Lager” category.
North Park Beer (San Diego): gold, Ice-Fu!, “Hoppy Lager” category
Pizza Port Ocean Beach: gold, Junk in the Trunk Dunkel, “South German-style Dunkel Weizen” category.
Pizza Port Carlsbad: gold, 24th Annual Strong Ale Festival, “Wood- and Barrel-Aged Beer” category.
Battlemage Brewing (Vista): silver, Summon Ifrit, “American-Style Amber/Red Ale” category.
Craft Coast Beer & Tacos (Oceanside): silver, Chlllzner, “International Pilsner” category.
Culture Brewing (Solana Beach): silver, Kosta-busser, “Honey Beer” category.
Karl Strauss Brewing (San Diego): silver, Golden Stout, “Coffee Beer” category.
North Park Beer (San Diego): silver, Hop Fu!, “American-Style IPA” category.
Abnormal Beer (San Diego): bronze, Eddie’s Redux, “West Coast-Style IPA” category.
Craft Coast Beer & Tacos (Oceanside): bronze, XPA, “Australian-Style Pale Ale” category.
Fall Brewing (San Diego): bronze, Tora!, “International Lager” category.
Julian Beer: bronze, Dolphin of the Desert, “Belgian-Style Quadrupel” category.
Kilowatt Brewing (San Diego): bronze, OB Bubble Dubbel, “Belgian-Style Dubbel” category.
“Winning,” said San Diego Brewers Guild Executive Director Erik Fowler, “never gets old.”
Capitulation
From: Monkless Belgian Ales, Bend, Ore.
ABV (Alcohol By Volume): 8.1 percent
Style: Belgian-Style Tripel
Drink or dump: Drink. Capitulation’s fresh melon and strawberry aromas are irresistible, thanks to the use of Citra and Hallertau Blanc hops for dry hopping. With a bubbly and gently spiced profile, it feels surprisingly light on the palate. This beer is a real standout, earning a bronze medal at the 2024 World Beer Cup.
Venture
From: Sunriver Brewing, Sunriver, Ore.
ABV: 5.5 percent
Style: New Zealand-Style Pale Ale
Drink or dump: Drink. With its light body, Venture is easy to quaff. Moderately bitter, with the Nelson Sauvin and Superdelic hops kicking in during the sassy finish.
Electri-Fly
From: Wild Ride Brewing, Redmond, Ore.
ABV: 6.3 percent
Style: India Pale Ale
Drink or dump: Dump. This jammy IPA should be a hop bomb — the brewery claims it packs 60 bittering units — but any enticing bitterness drowns in the pudgy, sweet apricot body. Electri-Fly never takes off.
Rowe is a freelance writer.
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