Continually refining their craft, Holmes Cay, the boutique rum blenders/bottlers, are seeking to diversify their offerings. Not only are they working on making more affordable blended expressions and single origin rums from exotic locations, but they remain true to their core, centering around their initial focus of single cask rums. A testament to their persistence in generating brilliant bottles routinely, the Holmes Cay Barbados 2009 Premier Cru emerges as one of their most intriguing and extraordinary expressions to date, a standard we’ve now come to expect from the brand.

A single cask release, the Holmes Cay Barbados 2009 Premier Cru boasts a traceable lineage – distilled by Foursquare in Barbados, and later bottled by Holmes Cay. The distillate was a blend of copper pot still rum and Coffey column still rum from 100% molasses, aged tropically for 8 years in Barbados within ex-bourbon casks, then matured for an additional 4 years in the UK in ex-bourbon casks. Its final two years of aging occurred in New York within a unique finishing cask – a Premier Cru (First Growth) Bordeaux wine cask from France. The final product, unfiltered and bottled at cask strength of 55% ABV (110 proof), is nothing short of exquisite.

Sourcing such a rare barrel for a fairly long finishing period escalates the product’s cost, resulting in a hefty MSRP of $170, consistent with other single cask offerings from Holmes Cay.

I was eager to sample this, mainly due to my limited experience with rum finished in red wine casks. While we regularly encounter rum that has been in contact with a variety of fortified wines such as sherry, port, and madeira, I’m interested in the impact this particular cask has on an already well-aged Bajan rum. With that in mind, let the tasting commence.

The aromatic profile of the Holmes Cay Barbados 2009 Premier Cru is characterized by a complex blend of spices and wood, with an undercurrent of savory and earthy tones. A detectable hint of butterscotch gives it a quirky edge, transitioning to the smell of earth and red fruits. There are nuances of currant combined with dominant spices like cinnamon and allspice, all brought together by the French oak which adds a rich layer of spice to the nose.

The taste is a repetition of the spice, a medley of baking spices, particularly allspice, complemented by a fruity pepperiness and some toasted oak. Concurrently, one can detect dark stone fruits like plums and darker jammy flavors, coupled with nutty cocoa and a chocolate-pecan bar. This combination might paint the picture of a dessert-like spirit, but as the sips continue, it leans more toward the dry side, with the oak becoming more pronounced as the drying tannin increases in potency. The elusive earthy tones make it intriguing but challenging to decipher, hinting at still undiscovered flavors.

Summarily, this is among the most intriguing and intellectually stimulating rums I’ve had lately. The wine casks have guided this rum on an intricate journey, resulting in a final product that stands out for its uniqueness.

Distillery: Holmes Cay (Foursquare)

Country: Barbados

Type: Single cask rum

Alcohol Content: 55% (110 proof)

Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, priced at $170

Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.

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I first learned about rye whiskey in the mid ‘90s, when my twin obsessions with American history and Eisenhower-era lounge music led me to explore retro cocktail recipes — many of which were made with rye. One of the first things I discovered about rye was that it had fallen out of fashion. When I tried to buy some at my local liquor store in Upper Manhattan, there were only two bottles available. One of them was, I believe, Wild Turkey. The other was labelled Old Overholt, featuring an antiquated-looking label with the portrait of a stern-looking 18th or 19th century man. I bought it for about $15, tax included.

As I later found out, rye whiskey’s popularity had been in decline since as far back as the 50s, largely due to shifts in tastes after Prohibition ended in 1934. Consumers began preferring lighter Canadian whiskies and later, vodka. I also learned about the history of Old Overholt; it had been around since 1810 and had survived Prohibition by selling its product as “medicinal whiskey”. It was originally distilled in Pennsylvania until the 1980s, when Jim Beam bought the brand and relocated its operations to Kentucky. It had always been 80 proof and was aged for only three years.

Despite its low proof and young age, I fell in love with Old Overholt from the first sip. It had a unique flavor profile, characterized by light nuttiness, caramel sweetness, a touch of leather, and a noticeable spice. It quickly became my liquor of choice. Being a bachelor at that time, I would attempt to impress dates by concocting retro rye cocktails such as the Ward 8 and the Brooklyn. It was always fun evangelizing about the charm of rye and recounting stories of its cocktail glory days.

The newest expression in Old Overholt’s 210-plus year history is its first cask-strength bottling in eight decades.

In the 21st century, the resurgence of rye gained momentum slowly, accelerating significantly with the introduction of brands such as WhistlePig, a robust, 100 proof, 100% rye whiskey that excelled in cocktails and impressed whiskey enthusiasts in search of something fresh and thrilling. However, due to a limited advertising budget, Old Overholt remained a cult favorite frequented by bartenders, even if it didn’t exactly fly off the shelves. But in recent years, Beam (now Beam Suntory), led by Bradford Lawrence, the company’s rye whiskey specialist, has made efforts to give it a more distinguished spot in the rye whiskey world and restore its former grandeur.

Flagship Old Overholt is now aged for four years instead of three and bottled at 86 proof instead of 80. A bonded expression, was reintroduced, and limited edition one-offs were released to appeal to collectors. Old Overholt Extra Aged Cask Strength Rye, the first cask strength Old Overholt since the 1940s, is now available. It’s bottled at an uncanny same strength as the ’40s edition, 60.5% ABV, and aged for 10 years.

This is not the Old Overholt of your grandparents’ era. It’s not crafted in Pennsylvania anymore, and the three-chamber stills that gave it its unique taste have largely disappeared into history, although Todd Leopold of Leopold Bros. has recently built one and is producing some remarkable whiskey with it. Upon tasting pre-Prohibition Old Overholt, there’s a clear familial likeness, with notes of sweet, peanut brittle, and honey being present in both old and new versions, along with finishes of dry spice, hints of oak and cinnamon.

Despite the high proof, the cask strength is easy to drink. At $99.99, it’s fairly priced for a 10-year, cask-strength rye, although limited supply and secondary market factors could potentially raise the price. According to the brand, cask strength Old Overholts will become a regular feature, although this specific batch from 2012 is a one-off.

Oh, and I pledged to spotlight the elderly man on the label. This prominent figure is Abraham Overholt, the visionary who initiated the legacy for the brand in 1810. His stern, frowning face once adorned Old Overholt’s bottles for a plethora of years. As mentioned by Bradford Lawrence, during the 1960s, when brown spirits and especially rye whiskey were fading, a decision was taken to remodel Grumpy Abe’s image and soften his stare. When I purchased my first bottle, Abe seemed kind and almost fatherly, though not exactly cheerful. However, with the revival of the whiskey, Grumpy Abe has returned, now appearing as dour as he did over a hundred years ago. His glance seems to pierce through the years, reminding us that the process of creating excellent whiskey isn’t always filled with laughter and enjoyment.

GO3 Vodka achieves the highest rating at this year’s USA Spirits Ratings

Vodka, although it is the most consumed spirit in the United States, is often misunderstood. A common misconception is that it’s always produced from potatoes, when it can actually be distilled from any fermentable base ingredient. Also, many discerning drinkers often state that vodka, as a neutral grain spirit, lacks any distinctive taste. However, back in 2021, the federal labeling authority removed the qualifier requiring that it must be distilled “without distinctive taste”.

Currently, there is an interesting shift happening within the craft vodka industry. However, not all craft vodka is created equally. This is made evident by the results of various prominent judgings throughout the year. Some brands and bottlings consistently rise to the top, making a name for themselves in a highly competitive market. It’s obvious that these standouts are doing something distinct and successful.

This is especially true for GO3, a craft vodka distilled in the heart of Houston, Texas. Even though the brand is just over a year old, it has already earned the title of Vodka of the Year at the 2023 USA Spirits Ratings. With a score of 98 out of 100 points, only one other product across all categories scored higher.

Imagine a $30 premium product earning such a striking honor. The secret to achieving excellence in vodka production is simple – start with superior ingredients. GO3 employs a unique blend of Texas sweet corn, sweet potatoes, and russet potatoes in its recipe. The final product is then diluted with pure glacial water from the Teton Mountains.

The critical steps of distilling, rectifying and allowing the spirit to rest result in unique flavor profiles and pleasantly smooth textures. GO3 presents a full-bodied vodka, rich in butteriness, and hinting at butterscotch in the lengthy aftertaste. For those who consider vodka bland and odorless, this 80-proof sipping beverage offers an intriguing argument to the contrary. The enjoyable experience doesn’t have to come from a cocktail; it is equally delightful neat or over ice.

Beyond the product, there exists an inspiring story. A group of friends and entrepreneurs initiated this venture to contribute positively to their community via the spirit. The label “GO3” corresponds to General Orders Number 3, the historic proclamation in Texas on June 19, 1865, which officially abolished slavery. This significant event is now celebrated as the Juneteenth national holiday. Accordingly, the creators of this brand have pledged a fraction of all sales to historical Black colleges and universities for the cause of supporting freedom, equality, education, and economic liberty.

GO3 proudly carries the slogan, “Independence never tasted so good,” and is rapidly gathering medals to substantiate this claim.

TOPSHOT – A man sleds down a snow covered hill in Houston, Texas on February 15, 2021. – Much of the United States was in the icy grip of an “unprecedented” winter storm on February 15 as frigid Arctic air sent temperatures plunging, forcing hundreds of flight cancellations, making driving hazardous and leaving millions without power in Texas. Texas Governor Greg Abbott announced that the White House has issued a Federal Emergency Declaration for Texas in response to severe winter weather across the state. (Photo by Mark Felix / AFP) (Photo by MARK FELIX/AFP /AFP via Getty Images)

The boutique rum blending and bottling expertise at Holmes Cay have continued to evolve over time. The company has expanded its product range by experimenting with affordable blended expressions and single origin rums from unique locations. However, the essence of the brand has always been single cask rums, which they keep producing excellently, the most recent being Holmes Cay Barbados 2009 Premier Cru, arguably one of their most intriguing and unusual offerings to date. We certainly anticipate nothing less from Holmes Cay.

This single cask release was initially distilled by Foursquare in Barbados and bottled by Holmes Cay. The rum is a blend of copper pot still rum and Coffey column still rum, made from 100% molasses. It was aged for 8 years in ex-bourbon casks in Barbados, then aged an additional 4 years in the UK in ex-bourbon casks, and finally aged 2 years in New York in a scarce Premier Cru Bordeaux wine cask from France. The final product was not chill filtered and was bottled with a cask strength of 55% ABV.

Considering the long finishing period in the scarce style of barrel, it is unsurprising the high MSRP of $170, which aligns with other single cask releases from Holmes Cay.

I was excited to taste this rum, particularly because I haven’t had much exposure to rum finished in red wine casks. We’ve tasted plenty of rums that have been aged in different fortified wine casks such as sherry, port, and madeira, but how this specific cask will influence a well-aged Bajan rum intrigued me. So, it’s time to taste this unique rum.

The Holmes Cay Barbados 2009 Premier Cru introduces a rich mixture of aromas to the nose, showcasing a medley of spices and wood, all balanced by hints of savory and earthy undertones. An unexpected touch of butterscotch further unfolds to a chorus of earth/soil, red fruit, and subtle suggestions of currant. The robust and lively notes of cinnamon and allspice, heavily influenced by French oak, enhance the aroma’s complexity.

The intriguing spice formation greets the palate once more, exposing a grand array of baking spices, particularly allspice. Accompanying these are a fruity hint of pepper and some toasted oak. Concurrently, the flavor deepens with dark stone fruit tones, mainly plum, joined by even darker jam-like notes, and a pecan-chocolate bar’s nutty cocoa. Despite the seemingly dessert-like nature, it gradually turns dry with each sip, as oak makes a prominent return and moderate drying tannin progressively asserts itself. A fleeting touch of earthy notes adds mystery to its memorable taste, giving an impression of undiscovered depths still waiting to be explored.

Overall, this rum is a fascinating and mentally stimulating experience that stands among recent tastings. The influence from wine casks embarks this rum on a mesmerizing journey, culminating in an incontestably unique product.

Distillery: Holmes Cay (Foursquare)

Region: Barbados

Style: Single cask rum

ABV: 55% (110 proof)

Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $170 MSRP

Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.

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My indoctrination into the world of rye whiskey began in the mid-’90s, fueled by intense interests in American history and the hypnotic tunes of lounge music from the Eisenhower era. This led me to research retro cocktail recipes, many of which incorporated rye. I found that rye was not in high demand, and only two bottles were available in my local liquor store in the Upper West Side of Manhattan. One of those bottles was a Wild Turkey. The other was an attractively packaged bottle of Old Overholt adorned with a portrait of a severe-looking (and slightly smirking) gentleman from the 18th or 19th century.

I learned that rye whiskey had been on a continuous decline since the 1950s. The decline began with the prohibition in 1920 and accelerated after its repeal in 1934 as tastes shifted towards lighter Canadian whiskies and more so towards vodka. Initially, I knew nothing about Old Overholt. I was unaware of its long-standing history dating back to 1810 and that it had survived prohibition by marketing its products as “medicinal whiskey.” I was oblivious to the fact that its origins lay in Pennsylvania, known for its historical rye production, until it was acquired by Jim Beam and relocated to Kentucky in the 1980s. I was also unaware that it had always been 80-proof and aged for a meager three years.

Despite its humble characteristics, I fell in love with Old Overholt upon my first taste. It offered a unique blend of light nutty and caramel sweetness, a touch of leather, with a gentle but distinct spiciness. It instantly became my preferred drink of choice. As a single man back then, I would often try to impress my bewildered dates by preparing vintage rye cocktails like the Ward 8 and the Brooklyn. Whether my attempts at sophistication were successful is still up for debate, but it was certainly a joy educating them about the magic of rye while sharing tales of timeless cocktails.

The latest variation of Old Overholt is the first cask-strength bottling in eight decades, adding a fresh chapter to its 210-plus year history.

In the 21st century, the rye revival gathered momentum, particularly with the introduction of brands such as WhistlePig, a robust, 100 proof, 100% rye whiskey that made a significant impact in cocktails and enthralled whiskey enthusiasts seeking something novel and thrilling. Old Overholt, however, remained a cult favorite due to its minimal promotional effort, yet it was still cherished by numerous bartenders. In recent years, Beam (now Beam Suntory), guided by Bradford Lawrence, the firm’s rye whiskey specialist, has made moves to raise its profile and restore its former glory.

Old Overholt’s flagship product is now aged for four years instead of three, and bottled at 86 proof rather than 80. A bonded expression, which was available shortly after the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897 was enacted until the 1960s, has been reintroduced. Limited edition one-offs were launched to appeal to the collectors’ market. Also, the first cask strength Old Overholt since the 1940s was released. Interestingly, Old Overholt Extra Aged Cask Strength Rye is bottled at exactly the same strength as the ‘40s edition, 60.5% ABV. It’s also one of the oldest Old Overholts launched since Prohibition, having been aged for ten years.

Today’s Old Overholt is not the same as the one your grandparents knew. It’s no longer produced in Pennsylvania and the unique three-chamber stills that gave it its exceptional flavor have mostly disappeared (with Todd Leopold of Leopold Bros. notable for having one constructed and producing some remarkable whiskey with it). However, as someone who has tasted pre-Prohibition Old Overholt, I can assure there’s certainly a family resemblance. Both the old and new versions feature sweet, peanut brittle-and-honey notes, a dry spice, and hints of oak and cinnamon on the finish. The cask strength runs a little hotter and dryer than other Old Overholts, but is quite drinkable even at such a high proof.

I must confess, I wanted to like this whiskey. But it turns out to be easy to like, regardless of your feelings on the old dude on the bottle or whether you’re invested in his brand’s place in whiskey history. At $99.99, it’s a fair price for a 10 year, cask-strength rye, although the actual price you may come across could be higher due to the limited supply and the secondary market. According to the company, cask strength Old Overholts will become a regular offering, although this specific batch, created in 2012, is a one-time-only deal.

Oh, and I vowed to reference the elderly gentleman depicted on the label. This distinguished figure is none other than Abraham Overholt, the pioneer who initiated the journey of the brand back in 1810. His stern, scowling face has been a significant part of Old Overholt’s packaging for many years. As per Bradford Lawrence, during the 1960s, when brown spirits in general and rye whiskey in particular were dwindling in popularity, a decision was made to revamp Grumpy Abe’s image to make it less intimidating. When I acquired my first bottle, Abe appeared kind and almost fatherly, though not exactly cheerful. However, with the revival of the whiskey, Grumpy Abe’s original, displeased persona was also reinstated. He now looks just as grumpy as he did over a hundred years ago. He appears to be sending a message across the ages, indicating the seriousness involved in the production of prime-quality whiskey.