In Memoriam: The Wine World Bids Farewell to a Publishing Legend
Anthony Dias Blue, who was fondly known by his close associates as Andy, was indeed the world’s most widely recognized expert in the alcohol beverage industry. He passed away on Christmas Day at his residence in Pacific Palisades, California. This piece of news was courteously shared with the world by Amanda Blue.
In his illustrious career of more than 25 years, Andy held the position of Wine & Spirits Editor of Bon Appétit. This publication is known as America’s most extensive and most influential lifestyle magazine. From 1981 till 2006, he contributed an in-depth column in each issue. Then in 2007, Mr. Blue, along with his partner Meridith May, established a new magazine known as The Tasting Panel. This publication soon became the most widely subscribed among people involved in the beverage trade.
Being a man of many talents, Mr. Blue also wrote and voiced a one-minute “Lifestyle” radio segment. It has been on air on WCBS in New York since April 1978 and on KNX in Los Angeles since 1999. His exceptional work in the segment won him a James Beard Award in the year 2001.
Over his extended six-decade career, Mr. Blue wrote nine books, including six about wine, a comprehensive book about spirits that is still used as a college textbook, and two cookbooks he co-authored with his wife, Kathryn. One of these cookbooks, Thanksgiving Dinner, has remained a favorite resource since its release in 1990.
Amanda Blue courteously supplied some additional details.
In 1975, Mr. Blue pivoted from business management to magazine writing, becoming the Food & Wine Editor of the Diversion magazine as appointed by Stephen Birnbaum. He later participated in the establishment of the Food & Wine magazine. In 1979, the family decided to move to San Francisco, leading Mr. Blue to step down as West Coast Editor for Food & Wine. However, a casual encounter at the inaugural Gilroy Garlic Festival changed that.
He struck up a conversation with an older couple from Los Angeles. As it turned out, the woman was the Food Editor of Bon Appétit magazine. As they were about to part ways, she invited Mr. Blue to contribute an article for them, which led to over three hundred articles spanning twenty-five years. Mr. Blue said of that time, “This was an incredible time of growth and exploration in the world of wine and spirits. As I continued to learn, so did my readers.”
Courtesy of Amanda Blue
Never lacking some musical background, Andy’s preferences spanned from Earth Wind & Fire to Luther Vandross to his steadfast favorite Steely Dan, a passion he imparted to his offspring and their offspring as a significant, if not non-negotiable, manifestation of art and sentiment.
A chronic traveler, Andy was joyfully received in the top-notch wineries, distilleries, and eating places internationally where they often anticipated his appreciated judgment of their inventiveness. A grandparent to 9, Pasha, as he was fondly called by Olivia, Chloe, Francesca, Seneca, Ruthie, Dominic, Misha, Asher, and Luca, reveled in the love and achievement of his grandchildren.
Andy’s survivors include his wife of 56 years, Kathryn, and his four children. Hearty appreciation to his daughter, Amanda Blue, for her contribution in piecing together this tribute article for her father. He will be deeply missed.
Unveiling the World’s Best Vodka at the 2023 New York World Wine and Spirits Competition
Stumbras Premium Organic Vodka takes home the top prize at this year’s New York World Spirits … [+] Competition
Earlier this year a panel of expert judges convened in a nondescript hotel convention hall in Brooklyn to assess merit across all major categories of spirit. It was part of the annual New York World Wine & Spirits Competition, which in just several iterations has already grown into one of the city’s premiere tasting events.
We’ve spent significant time covering the top-rated whiskies from that competition. It included several jaw-dropping surprises, all of which are worthy of exploration—if you fancy aged spirit. Now we’re going to venture into the realm of vodka. But first we must address the elephant in the room: how does one define greatness in a category that is flavorless by design?
Well, for starters, vodka isn’t flavorless, exactly. It is often conflated with neutral grain spirit, but that’s a vast oversimplification. And an outdated one. Vodka doesn’t even have to be made from grain at all. It can be distilled from vegetables, fruit, honey, starches—we’ve seen compelling examples come from all sorts of base ingredients. And it certainly doesn’t need to be neutral in flavor or aroma. If you have doubts, you ought to consider cracking open a bottle of the very expression that the New York Wine & Spirits Competition dubbed the best of 2023: Stumbras Premium Organic Vodka.
The first organic vodka to ever come out of Lithuania is crafted according to strict parameters of production. It begins its life as wheat grown on an organic farm, deep in the heart of the Baltic nation. After distillation, the liquid passes through a proprietary linen-based filtration. This process is said to imbue the vodka with its notable smoothness and subtle viscosity.
You can debate whether or not there’s some element of gimmick to be found there. But what’s certain is that the wheat at its core imparts a pleasing sweetness upon the palate. It carries through, into the aftertaste, where you’re left to ponder the lingering nuance of this flavor. Yes, flavor—in vodka.
And, to be clear, we’re not talking about flavored vodka. In fact, Stumbras specializes in one of those as well. Namely, a cranberry variant, which was also recognized by the judges in New York for its exceptional bitter notes. The company has the craft pretty well dialed-in after over 115 years of getting the job done.
You can find its award-winning organic expression on American shelves rather easily, priced at around $20 per bottle. The aforementioned subtleties of its tasting profile marks it as a natural fit against tonic or soda, served over rocks. Especially if you’re going to add lemon or lime into the mix, with the tart and bitter elements of citrus balancing out all things sweet from the wheat in the vodka.
Or do the unthinkable: try the 80-proof spirit neat. Maybe you’ll be able to call out some of the same grassy aromatics in the liquid that won over those contest judges back in Brooklyn. Perhaps you, too, will call it one of the more interesting vodka on shelves today. But what you won’t be able to do is call it flavorless.
LITHUANIA – NOVEMBER 25: Mill, Open air ethnographic museum, Rumsiskes, Dzukija, Lithuania. (Photo … [+]
Why White Rum is the Perfect Choice for Frozen Strawberry Daiquiris
Is anything more idyllic than taking a sunset stroll down the beach with a strawberry daiquiri? Even if you don’t find yourself on a beach getaway, you can easily make frozen strawberry daiquiris at home for that vacation vibe feeling year-round. To make our deliciously simple strawberry daiquiri recipe, you only need frozen strawberries, simple syrup, lime, ice, and white rum.
After everything gets blended, the result is a sweet drink that packs a tart punch. However, despite the simple recipe, one key to making the best frozen strawberry daiquiris you’ve ever tasted is choosing the correct type of rum. As far as we’re concerned, white rum is the only choice for alcohol in a daiquiri.
White rum is made from molasses or sugar cane that has not undergone a long aging process. While its flavor is more subtle than dark rum, it has an inherent sweetness that pairs well with strawberries. If you’re taking the time to make a blended drink, you want something easy to drink, light, and refreshing. Therefore, white rum is the best choice because it’s not as heavy as dark rum and has a touch of sweetness, unlike other clear liquors, like vodka. White rum also has a little bite, which cuts through the fruit sugars.
Read more: Popular Vodka Brands Ranked From Worst To Best
Mashed recipe developer Ting Dalton has a special place in her heart for this summertime cocktail. She says she loves the drink because “They bring a touch of summer and sea breezes at home. Sip [one] with friends at barbecues or summer parties and feel like you’re in the Caribbean sunshine.” If you happen to be whipping one up during peak strawberry season, feel free to freeze the fresh strawberries instead of buying pre-frozen strawberries.
As you would when cooking any recipe, you need to flavor your drink to suit your desired tastes. If the strawberries you bought or are using are extra sweet, dial back some of the simple syrup. If you like a bit of a sour note, feel free to add in more lime. If you’re making a daiquiri and cannot find strawberries, other tropical fruits, like mango or pineapple, make a great cocktail. If you’re feeling creative, combine your two favorite fruits to create a new daiquiri mashup.
Of course, for those under 21 — or those who do not drink — omitting the rum in a fantastic daiquiri recipe creates a delicious Virgin daiquiri that will still transport you to a warm tropical island. And, while rum white is superior for frozen strawberry daiquiris, dark or spiced rum can make a fantastic option for other tropical drinks, like a Mai Tai or a Dark ‘n Stormy.
Read the original article on Mashed.
Enhance Your Apple Cider with Salted Caramel Whiskey for a Flavor Explosion
What’s better than a hot and tasty drink to sip on near a warm fire? Apple cider, especially when it’s served nice and hot, is one of the best drinks to enjoy in the wintertime. The only thing that could make apple cider even better — at least, for all the adults in the house — is giving it a boozy kick.
The perfect liquor to add to apple cider? Salted caramel whiskey, which features the traditional whiskey flavor notes of vanilla and oak but with an infusion of creamy, sweet, and salty caramel. Many spiked apple ciders already include whiskey, such as Tasting Table’s boozy apple cider recipe, and the salted caramel version will kick it up a notch, adding more depth of flavor. The combo makes for a velvety sweet and indulgent treat to have at any time of the day. Once you’ve tried and loved apple cider spiked with salted caramel whiskey, you may be wondering if you can use the flavored whiskey to upgrade other whiskey-based drinks. Luckily, the answer is yes.
Read more: The 40 Absolute Best Cocktails That Feature Only 2 Ingredients
You can essentially swap out regular whiskey for the salted caramel version in any whiskey-based cocktail to transform it into a seasonal drink — just keep in mind that the switch-up will make the drink a little sweeter than usual. One whiskey-based drink that will thrive with the salted caramel flavor is a warm and cozy hot toddy. The hot toddy is already one of the coziest drinks out there and, by using salted caramel whiskey, it becomes even more of a holiday drink — one that you’ll be dying to have after dinner for a nightcap.
You can also use the salted caramel whiskey in a classic frothy whiskey sour. The sweetness of the caramel will perfectly balance out the sour notes in the cocktail. Moreover, there’s another holiday drink besides cider that craves a boozy addition: eggnog. The rich creaminess of the eggnog pairs well with the robustness of the whiskey. Plus, the salty sweetness of the whiskey will blend seamlessly into the sweetness of the eggnog, creating the ideal holiday treat.
For further reading, check the original article on Tasting Table.
Revitalizing the 30-Year-Old San Diego Brewing Company: New Owners Stir Up Big Beer Buzz
In the year 1993, the duo of Lee Doxtader and Scott Stamp, two ambitious entrepreneurs, launched a restaurant equipped with a brewery. They set it up in a mall strip in Grantville and named it after what would later come to be globally recognized for its premium brews – San Diego Brewing Company. At the time it was among only a few beer production establishments within the county and was in good company with Karl Strauss, Pizza Port, and San Marcos Brewery & Grill.
The restaurant, having its location near to spots like Jack Murphy Stadium, SDSU, and the activity-hub that is the Mission Valley area of the city, gave many locals their first experience of beer produced on-site. House creations such as their Blueberry Wheat and Old Town Nut Brown were quite a hit and the 50-tap list introduced customers to classic European beers and the stellar creations of early American craft-beer pioneers. This often initiated a journey for casual drinkers leading them to a newfound love for beer.
This story is intended for subscribers
We grant subscribers exclusive access to our finest articles.
We appreciate your support.
Tyson and Kristina Blake’s fondness for the liquid art stems from their mutual connection to the Grantville mainstay.
They moved from upstate New York in 2001, with Tyson securing employment at San Diego Brewing. Kristina joined him in 2003, and their shared love for craft beer, as well as each other, grew stronger there. The couple, energetic and outgoing, initiated a series of beer-pairing dinners that proved both delicious and informative, fostering community growth among newer members of San Diego’s rapidly expanding beer community.
In the subsequent decade, the Blakes tied the knot and transitioned away from San Diego Brewing to carve their own niche in the beer and hospitality industry. Presently, they are the proud co-owners of O’Brien’s Pub in Kearny Mesa, The Pub at Lake Cuyamaca, and West Coast Smoke & Tap House in La Mesa. During a conversation with Bob and Lisa Townsend at the Tap House, San Diego Brewing — a place of sentimental value to the Blakes — was nostalgically discussed.
The Townsends, like the Blakes, have cherished recollections of their time at San Diego Brewing during the early 2000s. Also, like the Blakes, the Townsends possess significant experience in managing time-honored eateries. Since 2016, they have operated their family enterprise, the San Diego Chicken Pie Shop in North Park, which has been serving customers for 85 years. So when the chance came up to buy San Diego Brewing, they instinctively sought the Blakes as partners in the venture.
On November 1, precisely three decades after San Diego Brewing first welcomed patrons, a small but significant celebration was held as the Blakes and Townsends received the keys to the brewpub. Many stalwarts of the brewing industry, some visiting for the first time in years, came in to toast the rejuvenation of this long-established business.
Despite being a revered name among local beer aficionados, San Diego Brewing has struggled to stay contemporary within the evolving craft beer scene. The menu, selection of brewery’s unique beers, and interior decor have mostly remained stagnant over the past ten years, apart from the addition of roll-up doors for temporary outdoor seating during the pandemic. The new owners recognized the necessity to refresh the brewpub and bring it into the present, embracing the challenge regardless of the extensive effort required.
The immediate plan for the owners is to navigate through the bustling holiday and football seasons, and then the NCAA basketball tournaments in March, before temporarily closing the brewpub for renovations. These amendments will involve modifying the dining room setup, implementing new lighting, and building a permanent outdoor patio. However, the changes will not be limited to merely aesthetic ones.
The head brewer, Matt Navarre, while continuing to brew some of the classic house beers of San Diego Brewing, is also inspired to explore a range of beer types, from traditional ales and lagers, to the contemporary India pale ales and stouts with new and innovative ingredients and methods. Furthermore, the owners have procured a nearby warehouse to house a packaging setup, which would enable San Diego Brewing to offer products for takeout and small-scale distribution to local stores, which includes the upcoming San Diego Hard Seltzer Company.
The menu will also be updated to include new dishes that fit within the pub-grub category — pizzas, burgers, sandwiches, soups, salads — but include more worldly, contemporary ingredients and complex flavor profiles. Off-menu specials (a “SoCal wedge” salad, and sandwiches packed with red-wine-braised beef and succulent pork belly) have provided sneak peeks of what the new bill of fare may look like.
That said, ownership understands that in assuming control of an eatery with so many established regulars, there are some items that are iconic. They weren’t certain which, thus they recently conducted a survey on social media to gauge followers on their preferred dishes. Consequently, items such as San Diego Brewing’s beer-cheese soup and boneless chicken wings will remain on the menu.
The Blakes also plan to revive their beer-pairing dinners, a tradition that continued at O’Brien’s Pub since Tyson’s departure from San Diego Brewing to assume the role of the general manager there in 2010. The special-event series has bolstered his reputation as one of the foremost culinary practitioners where beer-infused and beer-paired dishes come into play.
Even at this early stage, San Diego Brewing’s new ownership has managed to excite die-hard beer fans — even those who had written off this long-standing institution — for what lies ahead and are keen to support a comeback for one of the earliest local, independent beer strongholds in the county.
Brandon Hernández is founder of San Diego Beer News (www.sandiegobeer.news), a site providing daily coverage of the county’s brewing industry, a beat he’s covered for 17 years. Follow him @sdbeernews or contact him at brandon@sandiegobeer.news
Promoting Black Winemakers: A Look Into Harlem Wine Gallery, NYC’s largest Collection of Black-Owned Wine Brands
After walking around their Harlem neighborhood and realizing there wasn’t a place to buy good wine, Pascal and Daneen Lewis came up with a bold plan: to open their own wine shop.
“We’ve lived in the neighborhood for close to 30 years and we never really found a place that we liked buying wine in. We would travel downtown,” Daneen, co-owner of Harlem Wine Gallery, told NowThis News. “Being very active in our community, we were like, ‘Wait, why are we leaving our neighborhood to go buy wine that we want to drink? We should have a shop!’”
Pascal and Daneen sprung into action shortly after that. The couple did not have prior experience in the wine world, but they took classes and attended the Wine Spirits Education Trust to learn everything they could about the industry.
“We kind of naively just jumped into it,” Daneen said. “And now, seven years later, here we are, and we love every second of it.”
A post shared by Harlem Wine Gallery (@harlemwine)
Harlem Wine Gallery is so much more than a wine shop. Pascal and Daneen want to engage with the community. According to Sprudge, the wine shop includes a large space in the back, which is often used for tastings and other events. Its calendar shows the gallery has offered events that merge wine with music and culture — and many of those events were free.
“Most people are intimidated [buying wine],” Pascal, co-owner of Harlem Wine Gallery, told NowThis News. “This space gave us an opportunity to have an educational space that would allow us to educate our community members [about wine and wine making].”
A post shared by Harlem Wine Gallery (@harlemwine)
What sets Harlem Wine Gallery apart is its unique variety. The establishment boasts an impressive collection of wines from Black-owned brands and created by Black winemakers, arguably the largest in New York City. They also carry wines made by women. According to the website, natural wines and New York State wines comprise a significant portion of their offerings.
Pascal observed a notable lack of representation in the industry. He believes his retail space could address this shortcoming by prominently featuring these wines. He emphasizes the need for support towards Black brands and Black winemakers, and his shop aims to contribute to this important uplift.
Looking ahead, the Lewises plan to engage with their community, working together with other small businesses in Harlem and nearby locales. They are motivated to broaden people’s understanding that cultivating wine grapes is a part of agriculture.
Daneen added that there’s a lot more knowledge to gain and many more milestones to achieve.
“It’s just a neverending journey of learning about wine,” she said.
Discover the Impact of Adding Vodka to Your Pasta Sauce
Purchases made from links may incur a commission.
Who would have thought that vodka, an ostensibly non-Italian spirit, would find its place in a pasta recipe? Yet, intriguingly, vodka and pasta have come together in penne alla vodka, a dish that has earned its fame in the 1970s and 1980s. If you’ve wondered about the role of vodka in this cherished pasta sauce, know you’re not alone.
As it turns out, vodka lends a crucial hand to the overall taste of the sauce. Social media sensation and chef, Stephen Cusato, explains the reason behind this on his popular YouTube channel. His insights are based on Harold McGee’s work, a renowned food science writer, who discussed this subject in his book “On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen”.
According to Cusato, vodka can overpower a dish if simply added. However, reducing the vodka down helps to enhance unobserved flavors and works with the tomatoes making them more ‘tomato-ey’. In essence, vodka brings out the flavors from other ingredients like tomatoes in a way that would not have been possible. There’s much more to learn about the science behind penne alla vodka. Dig in!
Read more: The Ultimate Vodka Brands, Ranked
There are two reasons why adding vodka can elevate your creamy tomato pasta sauce. First is that it acts as an emulsifier to smoothly combine the acidity of the tomatoes with the rich, fatty cream, which may otherwise separate when used together. Adding the spirit helps achieve the perfectly creamy texture of vodka sauce. At this point, you might be wondering whether other types of alcohol could be used for this purpose. While the answer is yes, vodka has a distinct advantage over other kinds when used in this application, as it has the least distinctive flavor profile.
The second reason is that when vodka is added in small amounts, the alcohol is known to unleash a bouquet of flavors in the tomatoes that often remain untapped. It is key to remember that smaller is better in this instance, as pointed out by Chef Stephen Cusato in his tutorial. So be sure not to overdo it with the vodka.
Chef and food writer J. Kenji López-Alt tested out various ways to incorporate vodka in vodka cream sauce to find the most delicious way possible. He tested versions of the sauce that ranged from 4% to 1% ABV (alcohol by volume), and he tried tasting the sauce at different points in the cooking process. He concluded in Serious Eats: “For the tastiest vodka sauce, add ¼ cup vodka per quart of sauce and let it simmer seven minutes.” Otherwise, the alcohol hasn’t dissipated and tastes too strong. Another tip recommended by chef Stephen Cusato in the YouTube video is to make sure you first reduce the tomatoes until they are highly concentrated (which takes about 30 minutes).
So while vodka does indeed add something to the sauce, keep in mind the most important rules: Don’t use too much, and let it cook long enough to develop the flavors and dissipate the alcohol.
Read the original article on Daily Meal.
Why You Should Opt for White Rum in Your Frozen Strawberry Daiquiris
Is anything more idyllic than taking a sunset stroll down the beach with a strawberry daiquiri? Even if you don’t find yourself on a beach getaway, you can easily make frozen strawberry daiquiris at home for that vacation vibe feeling year-round. To make our deliciously simple strawberry daiquiri recipe, you only need frozen strawberries, simple syrup, lime, ice, and white rum.
After everything gets blended, the result is a sweet drink that packs a tart punch. However, despite the simple recipe, one key to making the best frozen strawberry daiquiris you’ve ever tasted is choosing the correct type of rum. As far as we’re concerned, white rum is the only choice for alcohol in a daiquiri.
White rum is made from molasses or sugar cane that has not undergone a long aging process. While its flavor is more subtle than dark rum, it has an inherent sweetness that pairs well with strawberries. If you’re taking the time to make a blended drink, you want something easy to drink, light, and refreshing. Therefore, white rum is the best choice because it’s not as heavy as dark rum and has a touch of sweetness, unlike other clear liquors, like vodka. White rum also has a little bite, which cuts through the fruit sugars.
Read more: Popular Vodka Brands Ranked From Worst To Best
Mashed recipe developer Ting Dalton has a special affection for this summer cocktail offering. Her love for the drink lies in its ability to embody the essence of summer and sea breezes, even at home. This cocktail works beautifully at barbecues or summer parties, where sipping one among friends creates an atmosphere akin to being in the Caribbean sunshine. Fresh strawberries can especially elevate the taste if it’s peak strawberry season; feel free to use frozen fresh strawberries instead of buying the pre-frozen ones.
Just like any cooking recipe, adapting the flavour of your drink to match your preference is crucial. For instance, if your strawberries are particularly sweet, consider reducing the amount of simple syrup. If you’re fond of a slightly sour note, don’t hesitate to increase the amount of lime. In the absence of strawberries for your daiquiri, other tropical fruits such as mango or pineapple can yield a fantastic cocktail. For a unique twist, try combining your two most-loved fruits to create a fresh daiquiri fusion.
We haven’t forgotten those who are under 21 or those who choose not to drink–simply leave out the rum in our amazing daiquiri recipe to enjoy a tasty Virgin daiquiri that will metaphorically transport you to a sunny tropical island. While white rum is the best choice for frozen strawberry daiquiris, opting for dark or spiced rum could be wonderful for other tropical beverages like a
Mai Tai or a Dark ‘n Stormy.
Visit the original article on Mashed.
Revamp Your Whiskey Sours: Replace Lemon Juice with Fresh-Squeezed Orange
Since its invention in the 1860s, the whiskey sour has stuck around — and for good reason. Its straightforward formula of booze, citrus, and sugar — oftentimes with egg white — crafts a tempting creation with loads of nuance. It’s easy to showcase varying whiskey characteristics while fine-tuning the tang and sweetness for maximum drinkability. The vast majority of whiskey sours rely solely on lemon juice, but adding freshly squeezed orange juice gives the drink an appealing lighter and sweeter take.
Not only does the inclusion of orange juice impact the flavor — adding a touch of sugar — but the mouthfeel, too. The cocktail will have a softer character, which can be matched with a flavorful whiskey. All the while, some lemon juice still maintains an acidic balance, which can be adjusted to taste. Further varying ratios of whiskey and simple syrup will yield distinct results. Such is the enthralling nature of this versatile drink, so let’s dive into a few notable riffs.
Read more: The 25 Best Bourbon Brands, Ranked
Fans of a sweeter whiskey sour can reach for a bourbon base and add a greater proportion of orange juice. Such renditions can reach almost one-and-a-half parts orange to lemon, although some of the latter’s acidic tang is necessary: Hey, this is a sour after all. If making this version, tone down the sugar syrup to compensate for the sweeter orangey flavor.
Alternatively, imbue only a slight orange character by utilizing two-parts lemon to one-part orange juice. This is better aligned with a bolder whiskey, like rye, and is well-suited to incorporating an egg white topping for added fluffiness. The inclusion of rich, simple syrup further plays to a decadent mouthfeel since it gives the drink a thicker consistency. This would make it more of a classic whiskey sour.
If craving an even deeper orange flavor, consider integrating the citrus in other forms. You could craft a syrup with the orange — opting for a sweet flavorful fruit variety like cara cara — and also including the rind, for a powerful full-fruit flavor. Finally, you can rim the glass with a malty brown sugar, top the egg white foam with orange bitters and garnish with a dried orange slice or grated orange zest, for an impressive effect.
Read the original article on Tasting Table.
My Top 8 Favorite Wine Bars in Rome – A Wine Writer’s Guide
T+L’s Wine & Spirits Editor shares his guide to Rome’s finest wine bars, from the old-school to the cutting-edge.
Camilla Glorioso
A good wine bar can provide the answers to many vital questions.
For instance, after my wife, Cecily, and I dropped off our daughter, Marie, at her dorm in
in the summer of 2022, because she had decided that going to college in the Eternal City seemed more appealing than doing the same in Newark, Delaware — go figure — we wandered aimlessly in the August heat for a span of time, then found ourselves sitting, somewhat emotionally unmoored, at a tiny wine bar near the Piazza Navona. Having your only child leave home is a weird experience. “What do we do now?” my wife asked me. The question pertained pretty much to our entire lives, but all I could think of to say was, “Have a glass of wine, I guess?”
Camilla Glorioso
Enoteca Il Piccolo, unexpectedly discovered one unusual moment, has quickly gained a spot among my favourites Roman vine bars. I later found it to also be a favourite among friends in the vinous industry for its primarily, though not entirely, selection of natural wines from petite producers and its authentic, un-touristy, deeply Roman ambience. The indoors area is small, dim and snug; outdoors is adorned with mismatched tables where, provided the temperature isn’t extreme like during our last summer visit, you can sit among a diverse crowd that seems to be a combination of characters from a 1950s monochromatic Italian film and those of a younger generation. Settle in for some bruschetta, mortadella, or olives. Opt for a simple glass or a bottle from the vast range on display on the inner wall, including a variety of Italian and international wines. Take some time to figure out your life.
Camilla Glorioso
The reality is that wine bars, or enoteche,
in Rome can be just about anything: long-established places like Il Piccolo with its basic menu of salumi, bruschetta, and paninis or more restaurant-like spots that preserve tradition; to those that increase the food ambition considerably while still catering a selection of smaller portions intended to be paired with wine. My friend Katie Parla, who is a cookbook author and has resided in Rome for a considerable time, addressed the latter phenomenon: “The enoteca used to be where you caught up with friends for a glass of wine or maybe grappa, along with perhaps a small bite. Now, increasingly, we are seeing enoteche managed by young teams with overseas training or a new-found conscious sentiment that recognizes the compatibility of high-quality cuisine with a wine bar.”
Related: How to Spend One Perfect Day in Rome
Camilla Glorioso
For me, the exemplar of this movement is RetroBottega, one of the hottest spots in Rome. A 10-minute walk or so from Il Piccolo, it’s an entirely different experience — and yet, also not. Despite its setting in a 16th-century town house, the design is distinctly modern: black barstools, blond wood, moody lighting. The ever-changing menu from chef-owners Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi is hyper-seasonal — on Mondays, when the place is closed, the staff often takes foraging trips to Lazio or Abruzzo.
Camilla Glorioso
On my last visit, I was thoroughly impressed by their spaghetti verde, aglio, pecorino e peperoncino. This dish consists of a bright green pasta (obtained from incorporating wild spinach and fresh garlic into the dough), garnished with slices of blazing red peperoncino and generous dozes of grated pecorino. A glass of Greco di Tufo from the iconic Quintodecimo producer from Campania complimented the dish perfectly. Although, a number of other selections from the extensive wine list would have aptly served the purpose as well. As expressed by Livia Alyson Careaga, a Rome resident and who also manages the Italian portfolio for an American wine importer, “The staff greatly values the notion that you’re there to explore and experience something new, delight in a distinct glass, even if the reason is simply to catch up with friends over some exquisite wine.”
Camilla Glorioso
For fans of natural wine, your haven is across the river in Trastevere. Give the crowded student bars a miss and instead direct your steps towards Latteria Trastevere. I’ll have to quote Katie Parla again on this one because this is where we last met for a drink. “Despite my general disinterest for drinking in Trastevere,” she said, “Latteria boasts one of the topmost wine lists in town, and it’s right there for everyone to see, nestled among numerous tourist spots.”
“Start with some bruschetta, add some mortadella, and maybe some olives. Choose a glass from the limited list, or a bottle from the indoors wall (the range is wide and includes both Italian and international choices). Figure out your life.”
The best thing to do is snag a wooden table outside, order something refreshing — I had a glass of Grillo from the Sicilian organic producer Masseria del Feudo — and accompany it with some of the cheeses that owner Antonio Cossu brings in from Sardinia, where he grew up. Add some beef tartare and (miracle of miracles, because they’re bizarrely rare in Italy) a fresh green salad, and you will achieve happiness. Parla said, “You can come here for a quick aperitivo, and before you know it you’ve hunkered down and are spending the whole night.” I can attest that this is true.
Camilla Glorioso
Back near Campo de’ Fiori, L’Angolo Divino is another do-not-miss. Owner Massimo Crippa’s encyclopedic knowledge of wine is manifested in his bar’s similarly encyclopedic list, which ranges from obscure low-intervention bottlings to classics and sought-after rarities. Inside, the old wooden-beam ceiling and brick walls make it feel like a historic wine cellar, and in some ways it is. Crippa’s grandfather founded the business in 1946 as a classic vino e oli — a place you’d go to fill jugs with olive oil and wine for the week. “These were very Roman places, a very old tradition,” Crippa said.
Related: 10 Facts About Rome’s Trevi Fountain
The last occasion I visited L’Angolo Divino, Crippa served me a trio of distinct orange wines — my preferred was a Barraco Altomore Grillo from Sicily. I paired it with a dish of olives, some mortadella, and fresh cheese from a farmer. I was curious about the name of the bar and asked Crippa. He explained, “Indeed, it’s due to our corner location at the angle of the streets. I am fond of the term divine as wine is a cultural and religious entity tracing back to the times of Jesus Christ. I like the thought of visitors experiencing a touch of that. Alternatively, many simply presume my name is Angolo.”
Camilla Glorioso
Perplexed, I asked Federico de Cesare Viola, my friend and editor of the Italian version of Food & Wine, how he would describe a Roman wine bar. He chuckled, “To be honest, there’s no singular definition — for Rome, any place could be a wine bar if one deems it as such.” This seemed to me an exclusively Italian way of definition: for instance, driving in Italy is just using a vehicle to journey from point A to point B; involvement of roads, laws, and speed limits is purely individual choice.
In sync with that mindset, I have to include Salumeria Roscioli as one of my top picks. Amongst other unique features, it holds the honor of being the sole establishment proposed to me both by wine industry experts and poets (the number of sommeliers recommending it is countless; the poet, however, was the late Mark Strand, who discovered it much ahead of any wine connoisseur).
Camilla Glorioso
Salumeria Roscioli trumps the line between a store brimming with remarkable artisanal salumi and cheeses, a wine bar, and a full-service eatery. Over the years, it has gained wide popularity, so booking a table in well advance is recommended. The food, especially pastas such as the oxtail ravioli and the cacio e pepe are unmissable treats. Start off with their made-in-house salame rosa, an retro version of mortadella, with pickled vegetables which you can enjoy while you explore the enormous, two-volume wine list developed by Maurizio Paparello. Pick from hundreds of options, but try to get the Stella di Campalto’s ethereal Rosso di Montalcino if available, or her even more tantalising Brunello, if cost isn’t a concern.
“It was a year since that instant when we recognised that our solitary child had departed home. My spouse and I found ourselves at Il Piccolo, pondering what to do. Things had changed, yet our family unit was as intact as ever.”
Note that Rimessa Roscioli is also nearby, it’s exceptionally wine-focused, and the delightful maritozzi pastries at neighbouring Roscioli Caffè are worth checking out. Their original bakery is just around the corner. The recently inaugurated Roscioli R-House, located in Trastevere, functions as a one-room hotel or a short-stay apartment. It’s a unique non-hotel accommodation for those seeking a place to stay overnight.
Camilla Glorioso
Don’t discount hotel bars while in Rome, either. First — I’ll admit it — sometimes the desire for a great cocktail wins out over the need for wine. In those instances, you’d be remiss not heading to the fairly fabulous Stravinskij Bar, in the oasis-like courtyard of the Hotel de Russie, a Rocco Forte Hotel. The hotel is just off the Piazza del Popolo, which typically means mobs of visitors; at Stravinskij, though, you are serenely unaware of the madding crowds, a sensation not in the least lessened by the bar’s Roman G&T, accented with celery shrub, sage, and black pepper.
Camilla Glorioso
But for wine, and some of the most stunning sunset views in the city, head to the Mater Terrae Bistrot Bar on top of the Bio Hotel Raphaël, a Relais & Châteaux property in the historic center where my wife and I took our daughter for a drink, a year after dropping her off at school that first summer. She was about to start her sophomore year, sharing an apartment with friends and embracing life as a student in Rome.
Just as its name illustrates, Bio Hotel Raphaël is a sanctuary for everything organic, from its facade overrun with vine to a menu that is filled with vegetarian and vegan options, right down to their wine selection at the bar and restaurant which is filled with organic and biodynamic wines. Spearheaded by the young sommelier, Anna Spanu, her guidance throughout the wine program is impeccable. On her recommendation, we had the pleasure of indulging in a bottle of Sergio Mottura’s delightful Poggio della Costa white from Umbria. Our experience was beautifully concluded with a glass of Buca delle Canne, a rather rare dessert wine from the natural wine producer, La Stoppa. Its amber sweetness was the perfect companion to taking in the views of Rome’s rooftops.
Camilla Glorioso
A year has passed since there was that abrupt realization that our only child had moved away from home, and my wife and I were sat in Il Piccolo, overwhelmed by bewilderment as to what should come next for us. Everything was changed, yet it felt like we were still a family, just as we have always been.
The original version of this narrative was published in the December 2023/January 2024 issue of Travel + Leisure, under the heading “In Vino Veritas”.
For more Travel & Leisure news, make sure to sign up for our newsletter!
Read the original article on Travel & Leisure.