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The Whiskey Ring Corruption Trial of 1876: A National Sensation in St. Louis
ST. LOUIS • As a crowd huddled against the courtroom door, the bailiff held his ground. “Unless you hold a pass or are indicted for whiskey frauds, you are not permitted to enter,” he declared.
Journalists from every corner of the nation crammed into the U.S. Post Office and Custom House located at 218 North Third Street. The reason? A trial that began on February 8, 1876, and lasted for an astounding 18 days. At the center of all the attention was one Orville E. Babcock, who served as private secretary to President Ulysses S. Grant and was now the alleged mastermind behind the notorious “whiskey ring.”
Babcock had also been Grant’s aide during the final months of the Civil War and was present when Confederate General Robert E. Lee surrendered on April 9, 1865.
Upon Grant’s subsequent Presidential victory three years down the line, Babcock was brought onto the White House team to manage his correspondence. Prosecutors alleged that Babcock, unbeknownst to others, facilitated a multi-city scheme that enabled liquor distillers to evade taxes. There is, however, no evidence indicating that Grant was involved. His only mistake was blind loyalty.
The national scandal broke here in 1875. Four prominent local men already had been convicted when Babcock went on trial. Every day, crowds gathered on Third Street as Babcock, often attired in silk hat, light jacket and sky-blue pants, sauntered to and from his lodging at the Lindell Hotel, Sixth Street and Washington Avenue.
Prosecutors pieced together a case of incriminating coded telegrams for the jury of seven farmers, three blacksmiths, a wagonmaker and a bricklayer. Defense lawyers had something no one has enjoyed before or since – a deposition by a sitting president, taken in the White House, on behalf of a criminal defendant. They presented Grant’s transcript Feb. 17. That same day, William T. Sherman, then a St. Louis resident and Grant’s wartime brother in arms, took the stand and said of Babcock, “His character has been very good.”
Babcock’s lawyers painted the prosecution as attacking Grant himself, a man who once had been a farmer in south St. Louis County. On Feb. 24, the jury needed only two hours to acquit Babcock of conspiracy to defraud the government.
The jubilation began on Third Street and moved to the Lindell, where Babcock and friends, including Sherman in uniform, held forth from the balcony over Washington. Babcock told the crowd, “I can only thank you most heartily for your kindness.”
He was the only major figure in the scandal to win acquittal, but soon was forced from the White House. Grant made him a lighthouse inspector, and Babcock drowned on duty eight years later.
The Old Custom House, at Third and Olive, was demolished in 1941 to make way for the Gateway Arch grounds.
Read more stories from Tim O’Neil’s Look Back series.
With a weekly newsletter looking back at local history.
On Feb. 9, 1966, the NHL awarded a franchise to St. Louis, despite the fact that nobody from our town even made a bid for a team.
People scrambled across the Mississippi on Feb. 7, 1936, at Gasconade Street in south St. Louis and, a few days later, near the Municipal now…
On Nov. 1, 1965, police declared Gaslight Square one of the safest sections of the city, but the public wasn’t buying it.
If a cyclone had dropped from the clouds and scooped up a section visited by the fire on Feb. 4, 1900, the destruction could not have been more…
It started out wet on Jan. 30, 1982, then dumped 14 inches of snow on St. Louis.
Highlighting the Rise of a Californian Wine Star and Their Captivating Cabernet Sauvignon Vineyards Owned by a Telecom Pioneer
Skipstone vineyards with mustard flowers
Steep terraced vineyards at Skipstone
Almost akin to a dream being realized, he saw the steepest slope ever, filled with beautifully maintained Cabernet Sauvignon vines comfortably nestled in carved terraces. This sight was truly remarkable for this self-made telecom pioneer, who had traversed the world and experienced various forms of natural beauty. Initially, he had no intentions to make wine but the overpowering elegance of this estate was a seductive call he could not refuse. Within an hour, he became the owner of the property.
Fahri Diner, a man always ready for a challenge and consistently dreaming big, even without the necessary wealth and connections. His origins trace back to Cyprus, an island country to the east of Greece where he grew up in a farming family with a fondness for making olive oil. An academic scholarship gave him the opportunity to go to the U.S. and study Electrical Engineering at Florida Tech, leading to the founding of Qtera, a fiber-optic company that later sold for $3.25 billion. Fahri, after numerous business ventures post Qtera, desired another passion that would connect him with his familial roots. He wanted to get back to small-scale farming and produce high-quality crops, similar to the olive oil made by his family. The big question was, would he remain in Florida, return to Cyprus, or find a ranch in the beautiful state of California?
View of terraced vineyards from the Residence at Skipstone
Fahri did what he always did when having to make a big decision. He went to a lake and skipped a stone; if it skipped three times, he would go to California and look for a ranch to reconnect to his farming roots. It was three times, hence, his two-year journey seeking out a unique property throughout California, from as south as Santa Barbara to as north as Alexander Valley in Sonoma County, began. Most people told him Napa was the place to be but Fahri has always trusted his instincts and didn’t see any properties that felt right. One day, in 2001, someone told him about a property in the Alexander Valley area in Sonoma County. When he had that moment of coming over the crest of the road, taking in those terraced vineyards on an extremely steep slope, he knew that this was the place, especially since there were olive trees so that he could make olive oil.
At first, he sold the grapes from the vineyards to local wineries eager to get them. Still, it bothered him that these rare vineyards were not getting the acknowledgment they deserved. So, he hired a team of experts, such as winemaker Philippe Melka, a true living legend in the wine industry, to express the place’s unique terroir and aptly take on the name Skipstone as a wine producer. Reconnecting to his roots while combining it with his love for the U.S., his second home that has given him so much opportunity, has led to the completion of the Skipstone winery. The journey began in earnest with the hiring of rising winemaking star Laura Jones as the head winemaker.
Landscape view with terraced vineyards and Skipstone estate during winter
Alexander Valley may not be a household name for Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Still, it is considered by many in the California wine industry to be one of the most important wine regions for Cabernet Sauvignon, only second to Napa Valley. Many well-known wine producers source Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Alexander Valley, giving little attention to the place, and there are some ultra-premium Cabernet producers with Alexander Valley on their labels. Still, the wine producer often sticks with customers, while Alexander Valley often goes unnoticed. But that was part of what drew Fahri to this place; it was an underdog such as himself, and it deserved someone who would show its full potential.
Laura Jones
His new head winemaking star, Laura Jones, is also an underdog who built a pedigree based on intelligence, talent and hard work, as she is originally from Wyoming but was able to get herself on the track of going into medical research in California, but when she was looking into grad schools, an encounter with someone in the wine world placed her on another path. So, she graduated from the prestigious graduate program in Viticulture and Enology from U.C. Davis and then went on to not only work in stellar wineries in California, such as Aubert Wines and Cliff Lede, but also spent some time in New Zealand and in Burgundy, France, at Domaine Armand Rousseau to give her an international perspective as well.
Even though there are only 27 acres of vineyards out of the 200-acre estate, the first thing Laura wanted to do was to employ precision viticulture practices by assessing the nuanced differences of each plot. So she installed three weather stations, one on the steeper hillside, one near the flatter part of the vineyards and one halfway up the hillside. During the summertime, there can be a seven to eight-degree difference between some parcels.
Laura Jones at the sorting table
One of the things that Laura loves about Skipstone, other than their exceptional vineyards, is that they employ a full-time vineyard crew. This is unusual as most vineyards hire temporary crews during the busiest seasons. Because Skipstone operates a 180-degree amphitheater with a high 60% slope, there’s constant work throughout the year due to the challenging terrain. Skipstone’s vineyard manager, Juan Alcantara, has stayed onboard for 16 years, and half of the crew have been around for 15 years, a testament to the stability which is uncommon in the ever-changing wine business. Laura values this stability because it allows consistent collaboration with the same team for refining vineyard management. This organic way of working has earned them a CCOF certification since 2008. Laura looks forward to bringing more precision to the expression of each parcel, focusing in on the rocky soils that provide more concentration, the gravel where Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc excel, and the clay-rich plots that are well suited to Merlot and Malbec.
Woman making notes in a field
Philippe Melka will continue as a consulting winemaker but Fahri understood the necessity to hire a full-time head winemaker like Laura to take their wines to a new level. He admired Laura’s admirable educational background and work history, and found it even more impressive because she started with none of the usual business advantages. Fahri values those who demonstrate passion and dedication beyond just having pedigree. Laura’s commitment to her work, coupled with being married to Skipstone’s general manager, Brian Ball, ensures her full dedication to the winery’s success.
It’s not always smooth sailing in any marriage, particularly when both parties want their own success. Laura and Brian have navigated this journey of self-accomplishment since their meeting at U.C. Davis years ago. There’s no guarantee that a winery team will remain intact; it’s almost inevitable that people will come and go. This can cause setbacks in progress as new team dynamics take shape and try to achieve extraordinary output. Despite these challenges, Laura, having tasted the exquisite wines of Skipstone and seen their remarkable vineyards, decided to align her journey with them.
Residence at Skipstone from a bird’s eye view
The splendour of Skipstone is now available for experience through staycations at the ‘Residence at Skipstone’. It offers visitors the life of a vintner with unmatched luxury. Originally, the residence was home to Fahri, Constance and their little children. Their former abode mirrors a European castle with exterior stones sourced from the property, and each sink cut and polished from a single boulder found within the estate. It’s spectacular to see the breathtaking facets of this 8,344 square foot home that houses five en suite bedrooms and a gourmet kitchen. However, Fahri and family moved back to Switzerland for their children to grow up amidst relatives. Now the residence is up for booking that can accommodate up to ten guests. Their estate director can arrange for everything from top restaurant reservations, winery tours, access to the Mayacama Country Club’s golf course, and wine tasting at the residence. The wine tasting not only includes Skipstone wines but also those from Fahri’s personal cellar, with a wide selection of old Bordeaux, Napa and Sonoma producers from early 1990s to 2000s and a variety of Champagne being some of the highlighted features.
More improvements are underway at Skipstone with a second floor being added to their winery as a vibrant hospitality centre. They are deeply committed to sustainability and anticipate becoming the fourth winery to receive the Platinum certification from the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) as all their projects will be powered by 100% renewable energy.
Lineup of Skipstone wines
2021 Skipstone, Preface Proprietary Red Blend, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend of various Cabernet Sauvignon parcels on the estate. Preface is a selection from Cabernet Sauvignon vines that make a wine that drinks well at an earlier stage and it is at an approachable price point, so it is a great introduction to the Skipstone portfolio. This wine also allows for a stricter selection for their flagship, Oliver’s Blend. Lovely balance with red cherries and black raspberries with hints of broken earth and a beautiful texture finishing with a pretty floral quality.
2021 Skipstone, Malbec, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Malbec. Since they have a fair amount of Malbec that does really well in the clay-dominant parcels, they wanted to make a varietal bottling of Malbec to showcase that particular section. Laura loves the “inherent deliciousness” of their Malbec as they go out of their way to thin the crop, sometimes 50%, to get the highest quality. Yet, she balances out the fruit’s generosity by placing a portion of the wine in amphora, which brings out a savory quality. Decadent dark fruit with juicy blueberry and plum tart on the palate with a hint of allspice and dry herbs with a silky texture and long, flavorful finish.
2021 Skipstone, Ripple Effect, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 92% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot, mainly from the Skipstone estate vineyards, with a tiny portion coming from another plot on the hillside outside of their estate. This wine is called Ripple Effect because they sourced a small amount from a hillside outside of their estate, it is the ripple effect of Skipstone emanating out of their vineyards. This wine illustrates the parcels on the estate that have more mountain fruit quality, which has slightly firmer tannins and high-toned fruit; hence, why they sourced outside fruit that would help highlight those qualities. Cocoa nibs and sandalwood incense on the nose with black cherry skins and broader tannins give more structure and shape with a vibrant and well-focused finish.
2021 Skipstone, Faultline Vineyard, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: A mixture of Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This blend is inspired by the Right Bank, encompassing Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The proportions vary annually and these parcels are found along a fault line. The Mayacamas fault line, prevalent throughout their property, is among the most active in the area, benefiting them by releasing pressure and minimizing the likelihood of future catastrophes. The U.S. Geologic Survey maintains three permanent installations at Skipstone, classifying it as an official earthquake monitoring station. The aromas immerse you in a forest walk with scents of tree bark and morels, complemented by elegant red and black fruit flavors. There’s a fine-laced structure leading to a long, expressive conclusion, leaving images of wildflowers in the mind.
2021 Skipstone Oliver’s Blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, California: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, compiled from a few parcels on the property. This wine primarily consists of the oldest vines on the terraced hillside and a small portion from a couple blocks on the non-terraced slope. In 2019, the harvest was limited, yielding only 2,000 cases. The opulent texture of this wine is truly awe-inspiring. The superior mouthfeel coupled with the intricate aromas of crushed rocks, fresh tobacco, and untouched fruit render this wine a spectacle of beauty.
Mastering the Garden: From Tiny Green Hops Cones to Delicious Beer
Ever wondered about the process of beer making and the ingredients involved in creating this amazing beverage? A critical component is hops, a cone-like flower from the plant Humulus lupulus, belonging to the horticultural family Cannabaceae.
This stunning flower is packed with oils, acids, and resins. The unique tastes of beer, including citrus, floral, grassy, spicy, woody, and even earthy flavors, all credit their existence to the diverse variety of hops.
Hop plants are rapidly growing, herbaceous perennials native to the temperate zones of the Northern Hemisphere. Only the female plants grow cones used as hops, while the male ones aid in pollination. These plants sprout from rhizomes, also known as rootstalks, and require direct sunlight and at least 15 hours of daily sunlight for successful cone production. They grow best with ample spring water and warm summer temperatures. In regions like San Diego County, additional irrigation may be necessary for the hops to flourish.
Hop plants prefer a deeply drained, sandy loam soil with a pH ranging between 6 and 7.0. The nutrition of these plants relies on the spring application of fertilizers, along with manure or compost.
Downy mildew, wilt, and viral diseases are common enemies of hops. Weaker adversaries include spider mites and hop aphids. Despite these challenges, it’s a sad fact that the plants are non-resistant to herbicides or pesticides. In spite of these obstacles, commercial cultivators have devised ways to successfully manage these diseases and pests.
During the American Prohibition era spanning 1920 to 1933, beer brewing was completely on hold in the U.S. However, as the 1970s saw the removal of the federal tax on homemade beer, a renewed interest in home brewing spread across the nation.
In the world of hop varieties and diversity, the U.S. is a pioneer. The nation is known for creating new hop varieties, with the citizens inclining towards the citrusy, fruity, and floral scents in their beer.
Although there are countless hop varieties worldwide, there are nine major hops variety players in the U.S.: Chinook, Amarillo, Centennial, Cascade, Mosaic, Citra, Magnum, Simcoe, and Columbus. Cascade introduces a hint of grapefruit in beer, while Centennial offers a bitter and citrusy aftertaste to the brew. Columbus, on the other hand, has bittering properties and is used towards the end of brewing. It imparts a citrus and wooden flavor to the beer. Unique flavors are created in the brewing process by using different hop varieties, leading to an intriguing mix of alpha acids.
The Europeans also craft new varieties, and currently the most popular among beer drinkers are Mandarina Bavaria (citrus note), Hallertau Blanc (like a fine white wine) and Polaris (think glacier candy!).
In response to the key question: How is beer made? The answer is quite straightforward. Four ingredients are central: malted barley, hops, water and yeast. Malted barley, scientifically known as Hordeum vulgare, is the essential grain that yeast ferments to bring beer to fruition. Hop flowers are responsible for the flavor, aroma and bitterness of a beer and they’re mostly added at three separate stages: bittering, aroma and flavoring. It is interesting to note that the mineral content in water, varying across different parts of the globe, is responsible for the differing tastes of beers.
While growing hops in San Diego County for private use might be tempting, it requires time, the correct growing conditions and a lot of patience. Growing hops in a container is feasible, provided there is enough space for the roots to sprawl. This is a significant challenge for a homebrewer/grower since the roots have the potential to grow to a depth of 15 feet or more.
The growth of hop plants requires a very tall trellis, up to 16 feet, and coir twine (coconut fiber) to provide strong vertical support. These plants also demand large quantities of water, ideally through drip irrigation, and the soil needs to be rich in fertilizers such as nitrogen (in large amounts), potassium and phosphates. A blend of sandy clay loam, sandy loam, silt and loamy sand is ideal. Commercial fertilizers and manure are readily available for home growers.
Varieties known for their high yield and versatility — such as Cascade, Columbus, Chinook and Crystal — are good selections for San Diego County. Hops will begin to ripen around August. The first year of growth is dedicated to establishing root growth. The second year, you can expect to see a normal crop based on your climate conditions.
Those interested in brewing beer may want to contact the USA Hop Growers of America, San Diego Hop Growers Association, and the Brewers Association. In addition, check out the UC Cooperative Extension page at ccsmallfarms.ucanr.edu or visit several of the 150 local breweries throughout San Diego County. The next USA Hops Convention for growers and grower support will be held in Coronado from Jan. 21 through 25, 2025.
Cheers!
Sands has been a UCCE Master Gardener since 2014. You can follow her walking through hops farms in Germany, talking with enthusiastic beer growers here in San Diego or sampling new beer varieties west of the Rockies.
Get free home gardening advice on the UCCE Master Gardeners of San Diego County Hotline, (858) 822-6910, or by email at help@mastergardenersd.org.
Exploring the Surprising Combination of Labour and Business- an Analogy to Crouch and Clancy or Vodka and Tomato Juice
Witnessing Labour being well-received by the City, accompanied by endorsements from austerity hero George Osborne, incites a peculiar sensation. It appears, I am not alone in this sentiment. Conversely to the past, when a substantial waiting period was necessary to evaluate a policy’s success, today’s dynamics allow immediate feedback.
Labour’s rapport with business demonstrates a perplexing union akin to vodka and tomato juice, or even socks with sandals. From my perspective, Labour, while not being anti-business per se, should advocate more for the workers. This includes fair wages, elimination of zero-hour contracts, and more. When Labour’s policies gain traction in the City, and are even applauded by George Osborne, it stirs unease. It seems this view is not unique to myself. The landscape has evolved to where reactions to policy implementations can be gauged much more rapidly than before.
Common sensibilities would suggest a 50-year span post the departure of a state head to adequately assess the legacy left behind. The present, however, allows much quicker evaluations – Liz Truss’ impact, for instance, took merely about 45 minutes to decipher. Savanta quickly released a poll post Labour’s Business Conference conclusion. Only 20% of the public supported uplifting the cap on bankers’ bonuses, with apathy being the overarching sentiment towards maintaining the corporation tax. Experts have voiced concerns around the perception that Labour is not undertaking any revolutionary moves for the economy.
Savanta’s Chris Hopkins observed, “Labour have succeeded in presenting their case as no threat to the British public. This could potentially propel them into governance. However, there is an apparent longing for a more audacious approach yet to be satisfied.” The real issue is the precarious balance of interests. When business interests feel threatened, there is often fierce opposition to change. For instance, the CBI has urged Labour to soften its stance on workers’ rights. Additionally, offshore energy representatives warn a windfall tax on profits could lead to significant job losses.
It’s vital for Mr Starmer to maintain his resolve. Engaging with business is a sound strategy, but allowing them to determine Labour’s governing approach is a completely different issue. We have experienced 14 years of manipulation by the wealthy elite. More immediately concerning for Mr Starmer is the uproar regarding the £28 billion green investment pledge U-turn. This move is not well-received, even though the party has managed it effectively. However, it fuels the quick-spreading Tory narrative about indecisiveness.
The most shocking Tory critique this week came during the Prime Minister’s Questions, with Mr Sunak making an insensitive joke about trans rights. An insider commented, “The situation was appalling, but the genuine shock illustrated by people’s reactions was the truly startling aspect.” This sentiment will be echoed in the future, further intensifying the conflict. In the words of Cormac McCarthy, what we have witnessed will be “nothing compared to what’s on the horizon”…
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Mastering the Admiral Schley High Ball: A Whiskey Cocktail Recipe from a Pioneering Black Bartender
“Is it any wonder that mankind stands open-mouthed before the bartender, considering the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic?”
— Tom Bullock, The Ideal Bartender
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It was 1913, and Theodore Roosevelt was in court.
Roosevelt was a strange and erratic man, and was often accused of being an alcoholic, despite his continual, fervid insistence that he’d never been drunk in his life. Fed up with this libel, he vowed to sue the next publication that claimed it, ultimately taking out his anger on a tiny Michigan newspaper called the Ishpeming Iron Ore. As a witness under cross examination, Roosevelt did acknowledge a fondness for Mint Juleps, and further admitted that he had tasted a Julep once at the St. Louis Country Club, but only drank “a part” of it.
The St. Louis Post Dispatch found the notion of anyone consuming “just a part” of a cocktail incredulous, particularly when the cocktail was prepared by Tom Bullock. “Impossible, who would only drink part of one of Tom’s?” they asked in their March 28, 1913, edtion. “It is unthinkable that a hearty man, let alone a stalwart Colonel, would stop at just a part of these beverages… it tests our belief beyond reason,” they further praised Bullock, who was regarded as an unmatched mixologist, irrespective of his race or standing.
Tom Bullock, a celebrated bartender for over two and a half decades, served in the premium establishments of Louisville and St. Louis. Reputed for being African American in an era of racial bias, Bullock was the first of his race to release a cocktail book. His book, titled The Ideal Bartender, published in 1917, offers scant personal information about him. Apart from the opening quote and the reproduction of the Dispatch editorial, it mostly contains cocktail recipes. The introductory note written by George Herbert Walker (grandfather of the 41st President of the United States) lauds Bullock’s qualifications for the creation of such a work.
While these details do very little to satisfy our curiosity, researchers have managed to sketch a brief account of his life, and that of black bartenders from Reconstruction through World War I, particularly Michael Jones and David Wondrich. However, this piece is supposed to be about cocktails, so we will focus on Bullock’s remarkable craftsmanship as reflected through his cocktails.
Bullock was notably skilful at making the Mint Julep. He was innovative in deciding to blend absinthe and Benedictine, a combination I have never seen any other author attempt. He may well be the first to have published a recipe for a Martini-like cocktail featuring an onion, that we now know as a Gibson. Amongst his unique cocktail recipes, my personal favourite is the Admiral Schley High Ball, composed of Irish Whiskey, lemon juice, pineapple syrup, dessert wine, and soda.
Schley was a Navy Admiral and a hero of the Spanish-American War, and this is actually not the only drink named for him (the other is a bourbon and rum Daiquiri of sorts in Charles Baker’s 1939 A Gentleman’s Companion), but Bullock’s drink was first, to say nothing of being both more creative and tastier. The Admiral Schley’s High Ball is a lovely and disarming drink, the bright fruit of the pineapple teasing out the honeyed brightness of the dessert wine, with the mild oak from the Irish Whiskey providing structure, a kind of a gentle but present backbone. It plays to Irish Whiskey’s core strength, which is that it’s such a soft and approachable spirit that subtle fruit—that which would be bludgeoned by bourbon or even scotch—is allowed to express itself and entice you with its subtleties.
It’s an inventive and delicious original from an excellent bartender, the flavors obvious in the way that great ideas always seem obvious in hindsight. We don’t recommend using it as any kind of valid legal defense, but it’s certainly worth your time on its own, or to make as a kind of toast to the noble past, and the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic.
2 oz. Irish whiskey
0.5 oz. white dessert wine, like Tokaj or Sauternes
0.75 oz. pineapple syrup
0.75 oz. lemon juice
Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake on ice for six to eight seconds. Strain into a tall glass over fresh ice, top with soda (optional) and garnish with a pineapple wedge or lemon peel.
NOTES ON INGREDIENTS
Irish Whiskey: The richness of this cocktail is amplified when the whiskey brings a gentle touch of fruity and malty sweetness to the table, while maintaining a passive role, serving primarily as the foundation upon which the other ingredients lay. Inexpensive brands like Tullamore D.E.W, Bushmills, Jameson, and Power’s are ideal for mixing this drink.
Pineapple Syrup: If you need to make a quick pineapple syrup, combine equal amounts of pineapple juice and sugar, stirring until the sugar is fully dissolved. Pre-made syrups are also available from notable producers like Small Hand Foods and Liber & Co., who offer a special “Pineapple Gum Syrup.” The “gum” in the name simply refers to gum arabic, an additive traditionally used to enrich the texture.
Dessert Wine: The choice of dessert wine poses the big question here. Bullock’s recipe calls for either “Tokay, Angelica, or Sweet Catawba Wine”, which are quite diverse flavor-wise. However, my personal preference leans towards white dessert wines with a honey-touched character, such as Sauternes or Hungarian Tokaj. Know that your mix may require adjustments of pineapple syrup (for sweetness) or Irish Whiskey (for strength) depending on the exact wine you pick out.
Note that while the dessert wine lends the cocktail its distinctive quality, it’s completely fine to skip it if unavailable or unwanted. The drink will still taste delightful with just the whiskey, lemon, pineapple syrup, and soda.
Soda: With a more intensely fruity dessert wine, I liked the soda because it gives the drink length and puts room between the flavors. For a more honeyed wine, I preferred it without. Your mileage may vary, again, depending on your wine choice.
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Linda Robson’s Desperate Plea to Strangers for Vodka
Linda Robson’s family pleaded with their neighborhood shopkeeper to deny her alcohol sales.
The star of ‘Loose Women’ has candidly discussed her struggle with alcohol in her just published heart-rending memoir. She revealed the distressing instance when her family implored the local seller to bar her from purchasing booze.
In a segment from the memoir, which has been featured in the Daily Mail, Linda, at the age of 65, penned: “Once finished with shooting, before reaching home, I would request the driver to halt so I could fetch a small bottle of vodka, which I would carry to bed and drink till I blacked out.”
“My family approached the nearby store and convinced the owner to refuse serving me. I then started visiting a store slightly distant, where they didn’t recognize me. Eventually, the family began to lock me inside the house, which seemed like the solitary solution to cease me.”
“I know that sounds like drastic action, but they were at the end of their tethers. Even that didn’t rein me in. I would try to climb up the wall of our roof terrace to get out over the other side.”
Linda also humiliatingly revealed she would “beg strangers” for vodka.
She said: “Or I would go and stand at the gate and beg strangers passing by to go and get me some vodka.”
And, Linda said she hit breaking point when her daughter Lauren told her she could no longer mind her grandchildren alone.
She expressed: “The most distressing moment of this entire phase occurred when my daughter Lauren signified that I was unable to care for my two innocent granddaughters independently anymore.”
“She started worrying about the prospects of me harming myself in their presence. There were days when I would take either of them to a store, secretly purchase a small vodka bottle, and consume it behind her back, which I regret confessing now.”
The family of Linda eventually managed to secure her a spot in the Nightingale Hospital in London, but she was battling suicidal tendencies.
However, Linda gratefully acknowledges The Priory and AA for assisting her to finally resolve her alcohol difficulties.
She said: “I haven’t had a drink… and I’m absolutely fine to be around alcohol. I’m never tempted.”
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House Set to Open in Naperville with Adjustments to Beer and Wine Size Limits
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House have plans to establish restaurants in the anticipated Block 59 dining/entertainment complex in Naperville. However, this is contingent on the city eliminating the constraints on wine and beer serving sizes that restrict these national chains from offering their menu-advertised beverages.
Both restaurant brands will not agree to be part of this upcoming project if the existing limitations persist. If this occurs, it is likely other tenants—such as The Cheesecake Factory, First Watch, Shake Shack, and Stan’s Donuts—might also terminate their leases. This information was shared by Andrew Balzer, a project developer from Brixmor Property Group, to the Naperville Liquor Commission.
The Block 59 project, which is scheduled to tentatively launch in 2025 in the northwest corner of Route 59 and Aurora Avenue, is being promoted as a regional hub for dining and entertainment.
According to Balzer, Ruth’s Chris and Yard House are key elements to this project, but will cancel their leases if they are prohibited from serving the beverages they are famous for at their other establishments. For Yard House, this is the Half Yard, a 32-ounce beer that is part of its brand identity. For Ruth’s Chris, this is a 9-ounce glass of wine that it is known for.
According to Naperville regulations, the maximum serving size permitted is 24 ounces for beer and cider, and for wine it is limited to 6 ounces per serving.
In the event that either of the restaurants decides to pull out of the Naperville location due to this limitation and if other tenants follow the same path, the entire undertaking could be at risk, as pointed out by Balzer.
He also mentioned that no such restrictions have been imposed on serving sizes at any other locations for both the companies, and they have always been recipients of positive responses from the communities where they are situated.
Currently, Yard House operates 88 locations across the country, including two Illinois locations in Lombard and Glenview. Ruth’s Chris, on the other hand, has a total of 134 locations, with branches in Northbrook and South Barrington.
Liquor commissioners expressed that they are not bothered by the concept of permitting 9-ounce servings of wine, underlining that certain eateries may already be presenting this quantity due to a lack of awareness about the restriction. However, they expressed apprehension that acceding to a 32-ounce glass of beer could establish a dangerous pattern and pave way for similar demands from other businesses.
Mayor Scott Wehrli, the leading figure of the liquor commission, voiced that the city has no intentions of providing an undue benefit to a single business by sanctioning a regulation that’s not universally applicable.
The competition in Naperville’s restaurant industry is fierce, according to the commissioners. They stated that a new standard would need to be implemented universally so that a newbie gets no specific privileges that existing businesses lack.
“Our primary responsibility lies in ensuring safety, but we can’t overlook economic development either,” stated Commissioner Tony Signorella. “What concerns me is the precedent we’re setting.”
Ex-Mayor Steve Chirico, currently a member of the commission, observed that the existing rules came into play when venues offered beer cans with 25 ounces volume, equivalent to two beers, during the last call, resulting in patrons consuming significantly high quantities in a short period before closure.
The commissioners discussed whether they could implement a restriction on the alcohol content in the 32-ounce beers, but they acknowledged that such an arrangement might be difficult to monitor and enforce.
According to Balzer, Yard House predominantly offers Miller Lite or Coors Light in the 32-ounce glass that’s characteristic of the outlet, both of which do not pack high alcohol content. At their Lombard outlet, the option of half-yard constitutes approximately 3% and 6% of the total beer sales on weekdays and weekends respectively, Balzer mentioned.
Voicing her support for the proposal to increase the pour limits, Christine Jeffries, who is at the helm of the Naperville Development Partnership, opined that bartenders and all those involved in serving alcohol in Naperville are adequately trained to do so responsibly.
She mentioned that the amount of alcohol isn’t as substantial as ordering a 60-ounce pitcher of beer or margaritas, or a bottle of wine for the table, both of which can now be legally purchased.
Jeffries remarked, “We haven’t had chaos with these items. I have considerable faith in Naperville and the Basset training we carry out here.”
The commission unanimously voted 5-0 to endorse the upgraded wine serving size but showed divided opinions on the larger beer size. The latter was greenlit by a 3-2 vote, with commissioners Kelly Douglas and Ray McGury voting against the amendment.
Before the aforementioned changes can be implemented, they have to gain approval from Naperville City Council. The council intends to examine the requests in a future assembly.
Michelle Mullins is a freelance reporter for the Naperville Sun.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House Set to Arrive in Naperville, With Adjustments on Beer and Wine Size Mandates
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House intend to launch their outlets in the anticipated Block 59 dining/entertainment hub in Naperville. However, their ability to do so hinges on the city’s decision to ease the restrictions on wine and beer serving sizes that currently hinder the two national chains from offering the drinks outlined in their menus.
Both restaurants are presently unwilling to join the development with such constraints, and if they decide to withdraw, other proposed tenants—including The Cheesecake Factory, First Watch, Shake Shake, and Stan’s Donuts—might likely terminate their leases as well. This scenario was brought into the open by Andrew Balzer, the project developer from the Brixmor Property Group, during his interaction with the Naperville Liquor Commission on Thursday.
The planned Block 59, located at the northwest junction of Route 59 and Aurora Avenue and provisionally set to open its doors in 2025, is being promoted as a premier regional dining and entertainment hot spot.
Block 59 relies on the inclusion of Ruth’s Chris and Yard House as its cornerstones, Balzer remarked. Nevertheless, if the establishments cannot serve their unique beverages synonymous with their other branches, they vow to cancel their leases. For Yard House, their signature beverage is the “Half Yard”—a 32-ounce beer that forms a significant part of their corporate brand identity. On the other hand, at Ruth’s Chris, guests expect to enjoy their famed 9-ounce glasses of wine.
Under Naperville codes, 24 ounces of beer and cider is the maximum serving size allowed and wine is limited to 6 ounces per serving.
If either restaurant decides not to operate in Naperville due to this restriction and if other tenants do the same, the whole development will be at risk according to Balzer.
Both these companies have not faced such serving size restrictions at their other locations and both have received positive feedback from the communities they serve.
Yard House has 88 restaurants all over the country, including ones in Lombard and Glenview in Illinois. Ruth’s Chris boasts of 134 restaurants, including ones located in Northbrook and South Barrington.
Liquor commissioners stated that they weren’t worried about permitting 9-ounce wine servings, as it’s likely some eateries are presently serving this volume due to ignorance of the restrictions. However, they expressed apprehension that approving a 32-ounce beer serve could pave the way for other businesses aspiring for the same.
In the words of Mayor Scott Wehrli, who also serves as the liquor commission’s head, the city doesn’t wish to bestow an unjust advantage on a single enterprise by ratifying a resolution that’s not universally accessible.
Liquor commissioners attested that the restaurant industry in Naperville is incredibly competitive. They concluded that a new standard would need to be established that didn’t give a newcomer something that existing businesses lacked.
“Our mandate isn’t only safety. We must also concentrate on economic development,” affirmed Commissioner Tony Signorella. “The issue that concerns me is the precedent being set.”
Steve Chirico, formerly the Mayor and now a commission member, commented that the current code was established at a time when establishments were serving 25-ounce beer cans, two beer equivalent, during the last call. This scenario made patrons consume a considerable amount just before closing hours.
The commission members mulled over the possibility of setting a limit on alcohol content for 32-ounce beers, albeit they agreed that such a condition could be challenging to manage.
According to Balzer, Yard House primarily serves Miller Lite or Coors Light in its signature 32-ounce glass, both of which do not have high alcohol content. He also shared that the half-yard option accounts for approximately 3% of weekday beer sales and 6% of weekend beer sales at its location in Lombard.
Christine Jeffries, who holds the position of President at the Naperville Development Partnership, expressed her support for higher pour limits. She is confident that bartenders and servers in Naperville have undergone proper training and can serve alcohol responsibly.
She stated that it’s not as much alcohol as purchasing a 60-ounce pitcher of beer, margaritas, or a wine bottle for the table, which are all now legal.
Jeffries mentioned that they haven’t faced chaos with these items. She expressed her confidence in both Naperville and Basset’s training.
The commissioners recommended the larger wine serving size with a unanimous 5-0 vote, but were divided about the beer size increase. The latter was accepted by a narrow 3-2 vote, with Commissioners Kelly Douglas and Ray McGury opposing the modification.
Both changes require the approval of the Naperville City Council before implementation. The council will discuss the requests at an upcoming meeting.
Michelle Mullins is a freelance reporter for the Naperville Sun.
Exploring The Ordinary’s Excellence in Rum: From Classic Daiquiri to Adventurous Rotating Editions
Kalyn Oyer is a Charleston native and the features editor for The Post and Courier. She’s a music festival and concert photographer and avid showgoer who used to write about music for the Charleston City Paper as well as national publications.
The Ordinary’s rum-focused cocktail program has a few showstoppers in the mix, including the classic daiquiri.
Bar Tab is a recurring column in The Post and Courier Food section that highlights a locally made or sold adult beverage.
The Ordinary’s beverage manager, Christian Favier, spent a decade in New York City’s restaurants and bars before coming to work in Charleston, a city he said is top-notch for its size when it comes to wine but a place he still sees in its infancy as far as cocktails go.
He aspires to contribute to the growth at the oyster bar located off King Street, where rum is a major feature on the menu that includes a dozen drinks spanning from classics to inventive variations. Since taking on his role, he has transformed the previously too-tiki-oriented menu into a more contemporary rum selection, excluded of any culturally insensitive Polynesian imagery that originated from the 1950s movements in California. Nevertheless, it retains a mix of both traditional and fresh Caribbean tastes.
Highlighting the importance of the daiquiri, Favier stated that one’s capability to properly prepare this drink is a decisive factor in their adaptability in dealing with rum.
“In discussions about the epitomic representation of rum cocktails, the daiquiri unquestionably stands out,” expressed Favier.
The daiquiri created here follows a straightforward recipe: a signature rum mix, fresh lime juice, and sugar, both shaken and stirred.
The Ordinary Daiquiri is a delightful, rotating version that keeps the customers coming back. The current version, Daiquiri #8, was personally the most delicious I tried during the visit, crafted with El Dorado, brown butter, rosemary, maple, and lime.
Another specialty that The Ordinary highlights is the Bad John, a drink mixed with Angostura bitters, salted lime, lemon, and a tangy pineapple element. A lot of the menu is inspired by a modern take on Caribbean classics with rich flavors. The pineapple is freshly cut and juiced behind the bar, creating a fluffy blend that provides a light, airy tasting experience.
The Batida Sazonal is an item that should not be overlooked, prepared with Novo Fogo cachaça, condensed milk, lime, and pomegranate. Another eloquent drink is the Coco y whiskey, blending Japanese-style single malt whiskey with oolong tea and coconut water.
The delight of an on-draft mojito comes with a twist of novelty and freshness, although I had to muddle my own mint to appeal to my preferred taste.
The enjoyable treat of the Ordinary’s mojito can be appreciated straight from the tap.
If in search of another extraordinary specialty, the frozen Pastis Painkiller stands out charmingly with an ethereal licorice flavor. (My recent preference has been leaning towards Absinthe!) However, no Absinthe is incorporated here, but rather a spicy and fragrant French pastis enhancing those licorice nuances — complemented with Coco Lopez, fresh pineapple, orange and nutmeg.
Starting off the feast with the snapper ponzu flavored with citrus, Asian pear and cilantro was a culinary delight, only to be surpassed by the rock shrimp rice. This is skillfully prepared with butter-infused Carolina Gold rice and filled with delicately textured vegetables topped with crispy sunchokes. A delightful experience to the palate, and ideal complements to the cocktails.
Favier is headed to Barbados soon for more research, so expect some new drinks to arrive on the menu once he’s back.
Reach Kalyn Oyer at 843-371-4469. Follow her on Twitter @sound_wavves.
Kalyn Oyer is a Charleston native and the features editor for The Post and Courier. She’s a music festival and concert photographer and avid showgoer who used to write about music for the Charleston City Paper as well as national publications.
The Ordinary’s Christian Favier, beverage manager, spent a decade in New York City’s restaurants and bars before coming to work in Charleston, a city which he says is top-notch for its size when it comes to wine but a place he still sees in its infancy as far as cocktails go.
Led by Charleston-based Indigo Road Hospitality Group, The Independent will open inside the 56-room George Hotel in Georgetown in February.
Look inside Frannie & The Fox, an Italian restaurant set adjacent to the lobby at boutique hotel Emeline. The Charleston restaurant was busy when it opened in 2020 and has stayed that way in the three-plus years since.
The decision follows a recent letter published by the state health department to warn manufacturers that THC products such as Delta-9 shouldn’t be advertised on product labels. Read more
The Need for a New Spirit: Vodka’s Rejection by Affluent Patrons
Yangdup Lama, the co-founder of the Delhi based Sidecar Bar, shares his observation about the changing preference for alcoholic beverages. Lama, whose bar has earned a place in Asia’s 50 Best Bars and the World’s 50 Best Bars, states that the popularity of vodka has declined in recent times. As per Lama’s initial expectations when inaugurating Sidecar, vodka was anticipated to be the favored choice for patrons, but surprisingly, the position has been usurped by the gin. Lama adds that the demand for gin has consistently grown despite vodka’s decline.
Lama recalls that a decade ago, his bar orders included equal numbers of whisky and vodka bottles, with gin making up a small portion. Presently, the orders for whisky remains constant, but gin’s demand has seen an upward trend, while the demand for vodka observed a decrease.
These changes in alcohol preference are not confined to Lama’s bar. Even various party hosts, such as 37-year-old Vir Kapoor from west Delhi, have witnessed a similar trend. Kapoor notes that more of his friends are now opting for gin over vodka, which was a popular choice for people who preferred white spirits rather than darker ones like whisky and brandy. Kapoor’s bar generally caters to these trends and stocks brands like Bombay Sapphire, Greater Than, Stranger, and Sons to keep up with his gin-drinking guests. Interestingly, there has also been a growing interest in high-end sipping tequila among his friends.
Even though vodka had a long reigning supreme status in India’s white spirits scene, recent trends point to a juniper-infused revolution, with gin replacing low-tier vodka. Consultants confirm that the shift in preferences has even modified entrepreneurs’ business choices, with many reconsidering entering the vodka industry. Ultimately, vodka faces a new competitive market being inundated by premium gin, high-tier tequila, agave-based spirits, and white rum.
Gin has been a component of India’s overall alcoholic beverage collection for over a century. Despite its longstanding history and prevalence, it has largely remained on the fringe in terms of market presence and acceptance. For a long while, gin lacked innovation and remained static, with its consumption by Indians being nearly negligible.
However, around 2017, gin began to make a name for itself. New players like Nao Spirits and Third Eye Distillery, the producers of Greater Than and Stranger & Sons gins respectively, emerged and started producing high-end gins that were both easy on the palate and expensive. Before long, gin overtook entry-level vodka.
As per industry calculations, the gin sector in India has ballooned from a mere 12,000 cases in 2017 to about 320,000 cases currently. Typically, a case consists of nine 750ml or 1,000ml bottles, depending on the category.
Spotting this surge in demand, nearly half a dozen companies, including Radico Khaitan, Spaceman Spirits, Third Eye Distillery, and NV Distilleries & Breweries, introduced new brands and variants of gins, as well as some white and golden rums in 2023.
Today, many other larger companies have also jumped onto the white spirits bandwagon with much gusto. Allied Blenders and Distillers (ABD), which is primarily a brown spirits whisky maker, launched a premium gin, Zoya, this month. Associated Alcohol & Breweries Ltd has launched its own premium gin, Nicobar.
Indian gins priced above ₹1,000 have been growing rapidly, and are outpacing imported premium gins. They accounted for just over a quarter of the premium segment four years ago but today, the number has risen to over 40%, said the Confederation of Indian Alcoholic Beverage Companies (CIABC), noting that the share of imported gins has fallen from 74% to 59% in just four years.
Clearly, this shift within the white spirits world isn’t just about taste. It’s a story of premiumization, where consumers are increasingly willing to pay more for quality and experience. Gin, with its versatility and burgeoning craft spirits scene, has capitalized on this trend. “10-15 years ago, vodka was the most sought-after spirit, but gin and craft spirits came in. What the dark-spirit making companies did was capitalize on the craft market, which vodka couldn’t,” said Lama.
Siddharth Banerji, owner and managing director of Kyndal Group, the spirits manufacturer behind well-known scotch brands such as Cutty Sark and The Famous Grouse, said the premiumization of higher-quality spirits is the backbone of the growth of the white spirits sector, specifically gin. The sheer number of brands in the premium segment has gone up across many spirit categories. The biggest beneficiary of this has been gin, since all these spirits come with appealing packaging and innovation.
“All this has resulted in people trying a lot of new brands. This was not the case some years ago, when people were completely inflexible about the brands and categories they consumed. Today, there is also huge growth in per capita income and that is clearly reflected in India’s ‘premiumization’ story. Also, more people are consciously drinking better quality over quantity since the pandemic,” Banerji added.
His company is in the process of adding an international tequila to its portfolio. In his view, India’s biggest spirit growth story will be in the premium drinking segment, in the ₹1,000–2,000 per bottle range. To be sure, while a battle is raging within the white spirits universe, brown spirits still command a staggering 97% share of the overall market, which is largely driven by mass-produced value offerings.
And while gin is reporting the fastest growth, vodka’s volumes are still four times larger—it has maintained growth momentum, but only in the much larger economy category. Premium vodka, however, has seen only a modest increase in market share. According to IWSR, a drinks consultancy, in calendar year 2021, volume-wise, growth across the overall vodka segment was higher, at 35%, while gin trailed behind at 28%. However, that same year, in the ‘premium and above’ category, it was gin that grew faster than the vodka segment, surging 177% versus just 66% growth for vodka.
It isn’t just gin that is making waves in the white spirits market. Competition is hotting up from other white spirits, with tequila, agave-based spirits and even white and golden rum becoming popular in the market, especially among young upwardly mobile Indians. This segment has seen new players such as Allied Blenders, Himmaleh Spirits, Associated Alcohol & Breweries wade in and experiment with a range of drinks for tipplers. The trend also led Diageo to launch its Don Julio tequila two months ago.
Vikram Achanta, the co-founder and CEO of Tulleeho, an independent beverage training and consulting firm, revealed that tequila has been trending significantly recently. “Interestingly, while agave consumption has plummeted in the US – traditionally one of its biggest markets – in India it’s popularity has exploded in the past six to eight months. Newly emerging Mexican and Spanish-themed restaurants and bars are fostering this rising demand,” Achanta stated. “Also, home consumption plays a role. The US’s decreased consumption has liberated the allocation of this spirit to markets like ours. Therefore, the supply of agave spirits is unlikely to present an issue now, and we might witness more companies entering and innovating in this sector.”
Indeed, Diageo and Bacardi, two of the world’s major liquor companies, are now concentrating on promoting their tequila brands Don Julio (Diageo) and Patron (Bacardi) in India, with ambitious plans to expand the market extensively here. DesmondJi, an Indian enterprise cultivating agave on home soil, has emerged and is providing to companies wishing to produce the agave-based spirit here. Their clients include Maya Pistola Agavepura, a venture that was launched by Indian restaurateur Rakshay Dhariwal last June.
“Tequila, especially sipping tequila, is currently extremely appealing from a consumer standpoint and there’s substantial interest from both genders because it’s believed to provide a ‘clean’ high. Though the validity of this claim is uncertain, it is nonetheless stimulating demand,” he added.
All things considered, it’s a prosperous time for the white spirits sector. Premium white rums, gins, and agave encompass over a million cases per year, Achanta declared, with the total white spirits sphere accounting for approximately four to six million cases.
“It (white spirits) is a very, very exciting category right now with a lot of innovation going on in some spirits,” said Alok Gupta, ABD’s managing director. “Gin has had this astounding growth because it offers new experiences. Globally, today, the only two white spirit categories spoken of are gin and tequila. There is a lot of curiosity around mezcal- and agave-based spirits and Indians really want to know what the hype is all about.”
The industry is yet to put out any official data for this fiscal year, but Gupta estimated the market for tequila to be about 75,000–80,000 cases per annum, growing at a rate of 40%.
Meanwhile, vodka, said some aficionados, appears to be suffering from a bit of an identity crisis. It has been stuck in the ‘value’ spirits rut, and is struggling to keep up with gin. While its volume growth continues, that growth is primarily in the lower-priced segments under ₹1,000, according to data from CIABC.
Indeed, Indian brands haven’t made any significant inroad in the premium vodka segment, leaving the space dominated by foreign players, such as Diageo’s Smirnoff, Absolut and Grey Goose. A few players such as NV Distilleries & Breweries, which sells the Smoke brand of vodka, and has innovated with flavours such as saffron and mango, are the exception. Somewhere, this lack of homegrown innovation has hindered vodka’s appeal.
Gupta said India needs to introspect as to how to grow the vodka category again. “We believe there is a gap in the super-premium vodka segment and we will launch something in the higher-end category soon,” he said.
The expectation from vodka was always that it was “clean” and delivered the same standard experience every time it was consumed, said Gupta. But with other white spirits, it has become more about who is offering newer flavours. “I don’t think gin is taking away the consumption of any other white spirit. The biggest share of white’s growth is possibly from someone who normally drinks brown; women and other newer age drinkers,” he added.
Anand Virmani, co-founder of Nao Spirits, appears to concur with Gupta. “To my mind, it is not a vodka versus gin debate. There is some migration from other categories. Some are beer drinkers, some are new drinkers. In fact, India is adding 20 million new drinkers each year. New drinkers generally begin with lighter spirits,” he said.
While the battle for India’s white spirits market is far from over, one thing is crystal clear: Premiumization is the name of the game today.