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“Is it any wonder that mankind stands open-mouthed before the bartender, considering the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic?”

— Tom Bullock, The Ideal Bartender

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It was 1913, and Theodore Roosevelt was in court.

Roosevelt was a strange and erratic man, and was often accused of being an alcoholic, despite his continual, fervid insistence that he’d never been drunk in his life. Fed up with this libel, he vowed to sue the next publication that claimed it, ultimately taking out his anger on a tiny Michigan newspaper called the Ishpeming Iron Ore. As a witness under cross examination, Roosevelt did acknowledge a fondness for Mint Juleps, and further admitted that he had tasted a Julep once at the St. Louis Country Club, but only drank “a part” of it.

The St. Louis Post Dispatch found the notion of anyone consuming “just a part” of a cocktail incredulous, particularly when the cocktail was prepared by Tom Bullock. “Impossible, who would only drink part of one of Tom’s?” they asked in their March 28, 1913, edtion. “It is unthinkable that a hearty man, let alone a stalwart Colonel, would stop at just a part of these beverages… it tests our belief beyond reason,” they further praised Bullock, who was regarded as an unmatched mixologist, irrespective of his race or standing.

Tom Bullock, a celebrated bartender for over two and a half decades, served in the premium establishments of Louisville and St. Louis. Reputed for being African American in an era of racial bias, Bullock was the first of his race to release a cocktail book. His book, titled The Ideal Bartender, published in 1917, offers scant personal information about him. Apart from the opening quote and the reproduction of the Dispatch editorial, it mostly contains cocktail recipes. The introductory note written by George Herbert Walker (grandfather of the 41st President of the United States) lauds Bullock’s qualifications for the creation of such a work.

While these details do very little to satisfy our curiosity, researchers have managed to sketch a brief account of his life, and that of black bartenders from Reconstruction through World War I, particularly Michael Jones and David Wondrich. However, this piece is supposed to be about cocktails, so we will focus on Bullock’s remarkable craftsmanship as reflected through his cocktails.

Bullock was notably skilful at making the Mint Julep. He was innovative in deciding to blend absinthe and Benedictine, a combination I have never seen any other author attempt. He may well be the first to have published a recipe for a Martini-like cocktail featuring an onion, that we now know as a Gibson. Amongst his unique cocktail recipes, my personal favourite is the Admiral Schley High Ball, composed of Irish Whiskey, lemon juice, pineapple syrup, dessert wine, and soda.

Schley was a Navy Admiral and a hero of the Spanish-American War, and this is actually not the only drink named for him (the other is a bourbon and rum Daiquiri of sorts in Charles Baker’s 1939 A Gentleman’s Companion), but Bullock’s drink was first, to say nothing of being both more creative and tastier. The Admiral Schley’s High Ball is a lovely and disarming drink, the bright fruit of the pineapple teasing out the honeyed brightness of the dessert wine, with the mild oak from the Irish Whiskey providing structure, a kind of a gentle but present backbone. It plays to Irish Whiskey’s core strength, which is that it’s such a soft and approachable spirit that subtle fruit—that which would be bludgeoned by bourbon or even scotch—is allowed to express itself and entice you with its subtleties.

It’s an inventive and delicious original from an excellent bartender, the flavors obvious in the way that great ideas always seem obvious in hindsight. We don’t recommend using it as any kind of valid legal defense, but it’s certainly worth your time on its own, or to make as a kind of toast to the noble past, and the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic.

2 oz. Irish whiskey

0.5 oz. white dessert wine, like Tokaj or Sauternes

0.75 oz. pineapple syrup

0.75 oz. lemon juice

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake on ice for six to eight seconds. Strain into a tall glass over fresh ice, top with soda (optional) and garnish with a pineapple wedge or lemon peel.

NOTES ON INGREDIENTS

Irish Whiskey: The richness of this cocktail is amplified when the whiskey brings a gentle touch of fruity and malty sweetness to the table, while maintaining a passive role, serving primarily as the foundation upon which the other ingredients lay. Inexpensive brands like Tullamore D.E.W, Bushmills, Jameson, and Power’s are ideal for mixing this drink.

Pineapple Syrup: If you need to make a quick pineapple syrup, combine equal amounts of pineapple juice and sugar, stirring until the sugar is fully dissolved. Pre-made syrups are also available from notable producers like Small Hand Foods and Liber & Co., who offer a special “Pineapple Gum Syrup.” The “gum” in the name simply refers to gum arabic, an additive traditionally used to enrich the texture.

Dessert Wine: The choice of dessert wine poses the big question here. Bullock’s recipe calls for either “Tokay, Angelica, or Sweet Catawba Wine”, which are quite diverse flavor-wise. However, my personal preference leans towards white dessert wines with a honey-touched character, such as Sauternes or Hungarian Tokaj. Know that your mix may require adjustments of pineapple syrup (for sweetness) or Irish Whiskey (for strength) depending on the exact wine you pick out.

Note that while the dessert wine lends the cocktail its distinctive quality, it’s completely fine to skip it if unavailable or unwanted. The drink will still taste delightful with just the whiskey, lemon, pineapple syrup, and soda.

Soda: With a more intensely fruity dessert wine, I liked the soda because it gives the drink length and puts room between the flavors. For a more honeyed wine, I preferred it without. Your mileage may vary, again, depending on your wine choice.

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