Liquor-articles 1905
The Whiskey Ring Corruption Trial of 1876: A National Sensation in St. Louis
ST. LOUIS • As a crowd huddled against the courtroom door, the bailiff held his ground. “Unless you hold a pass or are indicted for whiskey frauds, you are not permitted to enter,” he declared.
Journalists from every corner of the nation crammed into the U.S. Post Office and Custom House located at 218 North Third Street. The reason? A trial that began on February 8, 1876, and lasted for an astounding 18 days. At the center of all the attention was one Orville E. Babcock, who served as private secretary to President Ulysses S. Grant and was now the alleged mastermind behind the notorious “whiskey ring.”
Babcock had also been Grant’s aide during the final months of the Civil War and was present when Confederate General Robert E. Lee surrendered on April 9, 1865.
Upon Grant’s subsequent Presidential victory three years down the line, Babcock was brought onto the White House team to manage his correspondence. Prosecutors alleged that Babcock, unbeknownst to others, facilitated a multi-city scheme that enabled liquor distillers to evade taxes. There is, however, no evidence indicating that Grant was involved. His only mistake was blind loyalty.
The national scandal broke here in 1875. Four prominent local men already had been convicted when Babcock went on trial. Every day, crowds gathered on Third Street as Babcock, often attired in silk hat, light jacket and sky-blue pants, sauntered to and from his lodging at the Lindell Hotel, Sixth Street and Washington Avenue.
Prosecutors pieced together a case of incriminating coded telegrams for the jury of seven farmers, three blacksmiths, a wagonmaker and a bricklayer. Defense lawyers had something no one has enjoyed before or since – a deposition by a sitting president, taken in the White House, on behalf of a criminal defendant. They presented Grant’s transcript Feb. 17. That same day, William T. Sherman, then a St. Louis resident and Grant’s wartime brother in arms, took the stand and said of Babcock, “His character has been very good.”
Babcock’s lawyers painted the prosecution as attacking Grant himself, a man who once had been a farmer in south St. Louis County. On Feb. 24, the jury needed only two hours to acquit Babcock of conspiracy to defraud the government.
The jubilation began on Third Street and moved to the Lindell, where Babcock and friends, including Sherman in uniform, held forth from the balcony over Washington. Babcock told the crowd, “I can only thank you most heartily for your kindness.”
He was the only major figure in the scandal to win acquittal, but soon was forced from the White House. Grant made him a lighthouse inspector, and Babcock drowned on duty eight years later.
The Old Custom House, at Third and Olive, was demolished in 1941 to make way for the Gateway Arch grounds.
Read more stories from Tim O’Neil’s Look Back series.
With a weekly newsletter looking back at local history.
On Feb. 9, 1966, the NHL awarded a franchise to St. Louis, despite the fact that nobody from our town even made a bid for a team.
People scrambled across the Mississippi on Feb. 7, 1936, at Gasconade Street in south St. Louis and, a few days later, near the Municipal now…
On Nov. 1, 1965, police declared Gaslight Square one of the safest sections of the city, but the public wasn’t buying it.
If a cyclone had dropped from the clouds and scooped up a section visited by the fire on Feb. 4, 1900, the destruction could not have been more…
It started out wet on Jan. 30, 1982, then dumped 14 inches of snow on St. Louis.
Exploring the Surprising Combination of Labour and Business- an Analogy to Crouch and Clancy or Vodka and Tomato Juice
Witnessing Labour being well-received by the City, accompanied by endorsements from austerity hero George Osborne, incites a peculiar sensation. It appears, I am not alone in this sentiment. Conversely to the past, when a substantial waiting period was necessary to evaluate a policy’s success, today’s dynamics allow immediate feedback.
Labour’s rapport with business demonstrates a perplexing union akin to vodka and tomato juice, or even socks with sandals. From my perspective, Labour, while not being anti-business per se, should advocate more for the workers. This includes fair wages, elimination of zero-hour contracts, and more. When Labour’s policies gain traction in the City, and are even applauded by George Osborne, it stirs unease. It seems this view is not unique to myself. The landscape has evolved to where reactions to policy implementations can be gauged much more rapidly than before.
Common sensibilities would suggest a 50-year span post the departure of a state head to adequately assess the legacy left behind. The present, however, allows much quicker evaluations – Liz Truss’ impact, for instance, took merely about 45 minutes to decipher. Savanta quickly released a poll post Labour’s Business Conference conclusion. Only 20% of the public supported uplifting the cap on bankers’ bonuses, with apathy being the overarching sentiment towards maintaining the corporation tax. Experts have voiced concerns around the perception that Labour is not undertaking any revolutionary moves for the economy.
Savanta’s Chris Hopkins observed, “Labour have succeeded in presenting their case as no threat to the British public. This could potentially propel them into governance. However, there is an apparent longing for a more audacious approach yet to be satisfied.” The real issue is the precarious balance of interests. When business interests feel threatened, there is often fierce opposition to change. For instance, the CBI has urged Labour to soften its stance on workers’ rights. Additionally, offshore energy representatives warn a windfall tax on profits could lead to significant job losses.
It’s vital for Mr Starmer to maintain his resolve. Engaging with business is a sound strategy, but allowing them to determine Labour’s governing approach is a completely different issue. We have experienced 14 years of manipulation by the wealthy elite. More immediately concerning for Mr Starmer is the uproar regarding the £28 billion green investment pledge U-turn. This move is not well-received, even though the party has managed it effectively. However, it fuels the quick-spreading Tory narrative about indecisiveness.
The most shocking Tory critique this week came during the Prime Minister’s Questions, with Mr Sunak making an insensitive joke about trans rights. An insider commented, “The situation was appalling, but the genuine shock illustrated by people’s reactions was the truly startling aspect.” This sentiment will be echoed in the future, further intensifying the conflict. In the words of Cormac McCarthy, what we have witnessed will be “nothing compared to what’s on the horizon”…
Stay informed on UK politics with our free, daily email briefing delivered directly to your inbox.
Mastering the Admiral Schley High Ball: A Whiskey Cocktail Recipe from a Pioneering Black Bartender
“Is it any wonder that mankind stands open-mouthed before the bartender, considering the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic?”
— Tom Bullock, The Ideal Bartender
More from Robb Report
Woodford Reserve Just Dropped a Limited Edition Barrel-Strength Bourbon
Heaven Hill Just Dropped a New 18-Year-Old Bourbon That’s Sure to Be a Collectible
Ten to One’s New Aged Blend Is a Rum for Whiskey Lovers
It was 1913, and Theodore Roosevelt was in court.
Roosevelt was a strange and erratic man, and was often accused of being an alcoholic, despite his continual, fervid insistence that he’d never been drunk in his life. Fed up with this libel, he vowed to sue the next publication that claimed it, ultimately taking out his anger on a tiny Michigan newspaper called the Ishpeming Iron Ore. As a witness under cross examination, Roosevelt did acknowledge a fondness for Mint Juleps, and further admitted that he had tasted a Julep once at the St. Louis Country Club, but only drank “a part” of it.
The St. Louis Post Dispatch found the notion of anyone consuming “just a part” of a cocktail incredulous, particularly when the cocktail was prepared by Tom Bullock. “Impossible, who would only drink part of one of Tom’s?” they asked in their March 28, 1913, edtion. “It is unthinkable that a hearty man, let alone a stalwart Colonel, would stop at just a part of these beverages… it tests our belief beyond reason,” they further praised Bullock, who was regarded as an unmatched mixologist, irrespective of his race or standing.
Tom Bullock, a celebrated bartender for over two and a half decades, served in the premium establishments of Louisville and St. Louis. Reputed for being African American in an era of racial bias, Bullock was the first of his race to release a cocktail book. His book, titled The Ideal Bartender, published in 1917, offers scant personal information about him. Apart from the opening quote and the reproduction of the Dispatch editorial, it mostly contains cocktail recipes. The introductory note written by George Herbert Walker (grandfather of the 41st President of the United States) lauds Bullock’s qualifications for the creation of such a work.
While these details do very little to satisfy our curiosity, researchers have managed to sketch a brief account of his life, and that of black bartenders from Reconstruction through World War I, particularly Michael Jones and David Wondrich. However, this piece is supposed to be about cocktails, so we will focus on Bullock’s remarkable craftsmanship as reflected through his cocktails.
Bullock was notably skilful at making the Mint Julep. He was innovative in deciding to blend absinthe and Benedictine, a combination I have never seen any other author attempt. He may well be the first to have published a recipe for a Martini-like cocktail featuring an onion, that we now know as a Gibson. Amongst his unique cocktail recipes, my personal favourite is the Admiral Schley High Ball, composed of Irish Whiskey, lemon juice, pineapple syrup, dessert wine, and soda.
Schley was a Navy Admiral and a hero of the Spanish-American War, and this is actually not the only drink named for him (the other is a bourbon and rum Daiquiri of sorts in Charles Baker’s 1939 A Gentleman’s Companion), but Bullock’s drink was first, to say nothing of being both more creative and tastier. The Admiral Schley’s High Ball is a lovely and disarming drink, the bright fruit of the pineapple teasing out the honeyed brightness of the dessert wine, with the mild oak from the Irish Whiskey providing structure, a kind of a gentle but present backbone. It plays to Irish Whiskey’s core strength, which is that it’s such a soft and approachable spirit that subtle fruit—that which would be bludgeoned by bourbon or even scotch—is allowed to express itself and entice you with its subtleties.
It’s an inventive and delicious original from an excellent bartender, the flavors obvious in the way that great ideas always seem obvious in hindsight. We don’t recommend using it as any kind of valid legal defense, but it’s certainly worth your time on its own, or to make as a kind of toast to the noble past, and the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic.
2 oz. Irish whiskey
0.5 oz. white dessert wine, like Tokaj or Sauternes
0.75 oz. pineapple syrup
0.75 oz. lemon juice
Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake on ice for six to eight seconds. Strain into a tall glass over fresh ice, top with soda (optional) and garnish with a pineapple wedge or lemon peel.
NOTES ON INGREDIENTS
Irish Whiskey: The richness of this cocktail is amplified when the whiskey brings a gentle touch of fruity and malty sweetness to the table, while maintaining a passive role, serving primarily as the foundation upon which the other ingredients lay. Inexpensive brands like Tullamore D.E.W, Bushmills, Jameson, and Power’s are ideal for mixing this drink.
Pineapple Syrup: If you need to make a quick pineapple syrup, combine equal amounts of pineapple juice and sugar, stirring until the sugar is fully dissolved. Pre-made syrups are also available from notable producers like Small Hand Foods and Liber & Co., who offer a special “Pineapple Gum Syrup.” The “gum” in the name simply refers to gum arabic, an additive traditionally used to enrich the texture.
Dessert Wine: The choice of dessert wine poses the big question here. Bullock’s recipe calls for either “Tokay, Angelica, or Sweet Catawba Wine”, which are quite diverse flavor-wise. However, my personal preference leans towards white dessert wines with a honey-touched character, such as Sauternes or Hungarian Tokaj. Know that your mix may require adjustments of pineapple syrup (for sweetness) or Irish Whiskey (for strength) depending on the exact wine you pick out.
Note that while the dessert wine lends the cocktail its distinctive quality, it’s completely fine to skip it if unavailable or unwanted. The drink will still taste delightful with just the whiskey, lemon, pineapple syrup, and soda.
Soda: With a more intensely fruity dessert wine, I liked the soda because it gives the drink length and puts room between the flavors. For a more honeyed wine, I preferred it without. Your mileage may vary, again, depending on your wine choice.
Best of Robb Report
Why a Heritage Turkey Is the Best Thanksgiving Bird—and How to Get One
9 Stellar West Coast Pinot Noirs to Drink Right Now
The 10 Best Wines to Pair With Steak, From Cabernet to Malbec
Sign up for Robb Report’s Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
Linda Robson’s Desperate Plea to Strangers for Vodka
Linda Robson’s family pleaded with their neighborhood shopkeeper to deny her alcohol sales.
The star of ‘Loose Women’ has candidly discussed her struggle with alcohol in her just published heart-rending memoir. She revealed the distressing instance when her family implored the local seller to bar her from purchasing booze.
In a segment from the memoir, which has been featured in the Daily Mail, Linda, at the age of 65, penned: “Once finished with shooting, before reaching home, I would request the driver to halt so I could fetch a small bottle of vodka, which I would carry to bed and drink till I blacked out.”
“My family approached the nearby store and convinced the owner to refuse serving me. I then started visiting a store slightly distant, where they didn’t recognize me. Eventually, the family began to lock me inside the house, which seemed like the solitary solution to cease me.”
“I know that sounds like drastic action, but they were at the end of their tethers. Even that didn’t rein me in. I would try to climb up the wall of our roof terrace to get out over the other side.”
Linda also humiliatingly revealed she would “beg strangers” for vodka.
She said: “Or I would go and stand at the gate and beg strangers passing by to go and get me some vodka.”
And, Linda said she hit breaking point when her daughter Lauren told her she could no longer mind her grandchildren alone.
She expressed: “The most distressing moment of this entire phase occurred when my daughter Lauren signified that I was unable to care for my two innocent granddaughters independently anymore.”
“She started worrying about the prospects of me harming myself in their presence. There were days when I would take either of them to a store, secretly purchase a small vodka bottle, and consume it behind her back, which I regret confessing now.”
The family of Linda eventually managed to secure her a spot in the Nightingale Hospital in London, but she was battling suicidal tendencies.
However, Linda gratefully acknowledges The Priory and AA for assisting her to finally resolve her alcohol difficulties.
She said: “I haven’t had a drink… and I’m absolutely fine to be around alcohol. I’m never tempted.”
Exploring The Ordinary’s Excellence in Rum: From Classic Daiquiri to Adventurous Rotating Editions
Kalyn Oyer is a Charleston native and the features editor for The Post and Courier. She’s a music festival and concert photographer and avid showgoer who used to write about music for the Charleston City Paper as well as national publications.
The Ordinary’s rum-focused cocktail program has a few showstoppers in the mix, including the classic daiquiri.
Bar Tab is a recurring column in The Post and Courier Food section that highlights a locally made or sold adult beverage.
The Ordinary’s beverage manager, Christian Favier, spent a decade in New York City’s restaurants and bars before coming to work in Charleston, a city he said is top-notch for its size when it comes to wine but a place he still sees in its infancy as far as cocktails go.
He aspires to contribute to the growth at the oyster bar located off King Street, where rum is a major feature on the menu that includes a dozen drinks spanning from classics to inventive variations. Since taking on his role, he has transformed the previously too-tiki-oriented menu into a more contemporary rum selection, excluded of any culturally insensitive Polynesian imagery that originated from the 1950s movements in California. Nevertheless, it retains a mix of both traditional and fresh Caribbean tastes.
Highlighting the importance of the daiquiri, Favier stated that one’s capability to properly prepare this drink is a decisive factor in their adaptability in dealing with rum.
“In discussions about the epitomic representation of rum cocktails, the daiquiri unquestionably stands out,” expressed Favier.
The daiquiri created here follows a straightforward recipe: a signature rum mix, fresh lime juice, and sugar, both shaken and stirred.
The Ordinary Daiquiri is a delightful, rotating version that keeps the customers coming back. The current version, Daiquiri #8, was personally the most delicious I tried during the visit, crafted with El Dorado, brown butter, rosemary, maple, and lime.
Another specialty that The Ordinary highlights is the Bad John, a drink mixed with Angostura bitters, salted lime, lemon, and a tangy pineapple element. A lot of the menu is inspired by a modern take on Caribbean classics with rich flavors. The pineapple is freshly cut and juiced behind the bar, creating a fluffy blend that provides a light, airy tasting experience.
The Batida Sazonal is an item that should not be overlooked, prepared with Novo Fogo cachaça, condensed milk, lime, and pomegranate. Another eloquent drink is the Coco y whiskey, blending Japanese-style single malt whiskey with oolong tea and coconut water.
The delight of an on-draft mojito comes with a twist of novelty and freshness, although I had to muddle my own mint to appeal to my preferred taste.
The enjoyable treat of the Ordinary’s mojito can be appreciated straight from the tap.
If in search of another extraordinary specialty, the frozen Pastis Painkiller stands out charmingly with an ethereal licorice flavor. (My recent preference has been leaning towards Absinthe!) However, no Absinthe is incorporated here, but rather a spicy and fragrant French pastis enhancing those licorice nuances — complemented with Coco Lopez, fresh pineapple, orange and nutmeg.
Starting off the feast with the snapper ponzu flavored with citrus, Asian pear and cilantro was a culinary delight, only to be surpassed by the rock shrimp rice. This is skillfully prepared with butter-infused Carolina Gold rice and filled with delicately textured vegetables topped with crispy sunchokes. A delightful experience to the palate, and ideal complements to the cocktails.
Favier is headed to Barbados soon for more research, so expect some new drinks to arrive on the menu once he’s back.
Reach Kalyn Oyer at 843-371-4469. Follow her on Twitter @sound_wavves.
Kalyn Oyer is a Charleston native and the features editor for The Post and Courier. She’s a music festival and concert photographer and avid showgoer who used to write about music for the Charleston City Paper as well as national publications.
The Ordinary’s Christian Favier, beverage manager, spent a decade in New York City’s restaurants and bars before coming to work in Charleston, a city which he says is top-notch for its size when it comes to wine but a place he still sees in its infancy as far as cocktails go.
Led by Charleston-based Indigo Road Hospitality Group, The Independent will open inside the 56-room George Hotel in Georgetown in February.
Look inside Frannie & The Fox, an Italian restaurant set adjacent to the lobby at boutique hotel Emeline. The Charleston restaurant was busy when it opened in 2020 and has stayed that way in the three-plus years since.
The decision follows a recent letter published by the state health department to warn manufacturers that THC products such as Delta-9 shouldn’t be advertised on product labels. Read more
The Need for a New Spirit: Vodka’s Rejection by Affluent Patrons
Yangdup Lama, the co-founder of the Delhi based Sidecar Bar, shares his observation about the changing preference for alcoholic beverages. Lama, whose bar has earned a place in Asia’s 50 Best Bars and the World’s 50 Best Bars, states that the popularity of vodka has declined in recent times. As per Lama’s initial expectations when inaugurating Sidecar, vodka was anticipated to be the favored choice for patrons, but surprisingly, the position has been usurped by the gin. Lama adds that the demand for gin has consistently grown despite vodka’s decline.
Lama recalls that a decade ago, his bar orders included equal numbers of whisky and vodka bottles, with gin making up a small portion. Presently, the orders for whisky remains constant, but gin’s demand has seen an upward trend, while the demand for vodka observed a decrease.
These changes in alcohol preference are not confined to Lama’s bar. Even various party hosts, such as 37-year-old Vir Kapoor from west Delhi, have witnessed a similar trend. Kapoor notes that more of his friends are now opting for gin over vodka, which was a popular choice for people who preferred white spirits rather than darker ones like whisky and brandy. Kapoor’s bar generally caters to these trends and stocks brands like Bombay Sapphire, Greater Than, Stranger, and Sons to keep up with his gin-drinking guests. Interestingly, there has also been a growing interest in high-end sipping tequila among his friends.
Even though vodka had a long reigning supreme status in India’s white spirits scene, recent trends point to a juniper-infused revolution, with gin replacing low-tier vodka. Consultants confirm that the shift in preferences has even modified entrepreneurs’ business choices, with many reconsidering entering the vodka industry. Ultimately, vodka faces a new competitive market being inundated by premium gin, high-tier tequila, agave-based spirits, and white rum.
Gin has been a component of India’s overall alcoholic beverage collection for over a century. Despite its longstanding history and prevalence, it has largely remained on the fringe in terms of market presence and acceptance. For a long while, gin lacked innovation and remained static, with its consumption by Indians being nearly negligible.
However, around 2017, gin began to make a name for itself. New players like Nao Spirits and Third Eye Distillery, the producers of Greater Than and Stranger & Sons gins respectively, emerged and started producing high-end gins that were both easy on the palate and expensive. Before long, gin overtook entry-level vodka.
As per industry calculations, the gin sector in India has ballooned from a mere 12,000 cases in 2017 to about 320,000 cases currently. Typically, a case consists of nine 750ml or 1,000ml bottles, depending on the category.
Spotting this surge in demand, nearly half a dozen companies, including Radico Khaitan, Spaceman Spirits, Third Eye Distillery, and NV Distilleries & Breweries, introduced new brands and variants of gins, as well as some white and golden rums in 2023.
Today, many other larger companies have also jumped onto the white spirits bandwagon with much gusto. Allied Blenders and Distillers (ABD), which is primarily a brown spirits whisky maker, launched a premium gin, Zoya, this month. Associated Alcohol & Breweries Ltd has launched its own premium gin, Nicobar.
Indian gins priced above ₹1,000 have been growing rapidly, and are outpacing imported premium gins. They accounted for just over a quarter of the premium segment four years ago but today, the number has risen to over 40%, said the Confederation of Indian Alcoholic Beverage Companies (CIABC), noting that the share of imported gins has fallen from 74% to 59% in just four years.
Clearly, this shift within the white spirits world isn’t just about taste. It’s a story of premiumization, where consumers are increasingly willing to pay more for quality and experience. Gin, with its versatility and burgeoning craft spirits scene, has capitalized on this trend. “10-15 years ago, vodka was the most sought-after spirit, but gin and craft spirits came in. What the dark-spirit making companies did was capitalize on the craft market, which vodka couldn’t,” said Lama.
Siddharth Banerji, owner and managing director of Kyndal Group, the spirits manufacturer behind well-known scotch brands such as Cutty Sark and The Famous Grouse, said the premiumization of higher-quality spirits is the backbone of the growth of the white spirits sector, specifically gin. The sheer number of brands in the premium segment has gone up across many spirit categories. The biggest beneficiary of this has been gin, since all these spirits come with appealing packaging and innovation.
“All this has resulted in people trying a lot of new brands. This was not the case some years ago, when people were completely inflexible about the brands and categories they consumed. Today, there is also huge growth in per capita income and that is clearly reflected in India’s ‘premiumization’ story. Also, more people are consciously drinking better quality over quantity since the pandemic,” Banerji added.
His company is in the process of adding an international tequila to its portfolio. In his view, India’s biggest spirit growth story will be in the premium drinking segment, in the ₹1,000–2,000 per bottle range. To be sure, while a battle is raging within the white spirits universe, brown spirits still command a staggering 97% share of the overall market, which is largely driven by mass-produced value offerings.
And while gin is reporting the fastest growth, vodka’s volumes are still four times larger—it has maintained growth momentum, but only in the much larger economy category. Premium vodka, however, has seen only a modest increase in market share. According to IWSR, a drinks consultancy, in calendar year 2021, volume-wise, growth across the overall vodka segment was higher, at 35%, while gin trailed behind at 28%. However, that same year, in the ‘premium and above’ category, it was gin that grew faster than the vodka segment, surging 177% versus just 66% growth for vodka.
It isn’t just gin that is making waves in the white spirits market. Competition is hotting up from other white spirits, with tequila, agave-based spirits and even white and golden rum becoming popular in the market, especially among young upwardly mobile Indians. This segment has seen new players such as Allied Blenders, Himmaleh Spirits, Associated Alcohol & Breweries wade in and experiment with a range of drinks for tipplers. The trend also led Diageo to launch its Don Julio tequila two months ago.
Vikram Achanta, the co-founder and CEO of Tulleeho, an independent beverage training and consulting firm, revealed that tequila has been trending significantly recently. “Interestingly, while agave consumption has plummeted in the US – traditionally one of its biggest markets – in India it’s popularity has exploded in the past six to eight months. Newly emerging Mexican and Spanish-themed restaurants and bars are fostering this rising demand,” Achanta stated. “Also, home consumption plays a role. The US’s decreased consumption has liberated the allocation of this spirit to markets like ours. Therefore, the supply of agave spirits is unlikely to present an issue now, and we might witness more companies entering and innovating in this sector.”
Indeed, Diageo and Bacardi, two of the world’s major liquor companies, are now concentrating on promoting their tequila brands Don Julio (Diageo) and Patron (Bacardi) in India, with ambitious plans to expand the market extensively here. DesmondJi, an Indian enterprise cultivating agave on home soil, has emerged and is providing to companies wishing to produce the agave-based spirit here. Their clients include Maya Pistola Agavepura, a venture that was launched by Indian restaurateur Rakshay Dhariwal last June.
“Tequila, especially sipping tequila, is currently extremely appealing from a consumer standpoint and there’s substantial interest from both genders because it’s believed to provide a ‘clean’ high. Though the validity of this claim is uncertain, it is nonetheless stimulating demand,” he added.
All things considered, it’s a prosperous time for the white spirits sector. Premium white rums, gins, and agave encompass over a million cases per year, Achanta declared, with the total white spirits sphere accounting for approximately four to six million cases.
“It (white spirits) is a very, very exciting category right now with a lot of innovation going on in some spirits,” said Alok Gupta, ABD’s managing director. “Gin has had this astounding growth because it offers new experiences. Globally, today, the only two white spirit categories spoken of are gin and tequila. There is a lot of curiosity around mezcal- and agave-based spirits and Indians really want to know what the hype is all about.”
The industry is yet to put out any official data for this fiscal year, but Gupta estimated the market for tequila to be about 75,000–80,000 cases per annum, growing at a rate of 40%.
Meanwhile, vodka, said some aficionados, appears to be suffering from a bit of an identity crisis. It has been stuck in the ‘value’ spirits rut, and is struggling to keep up with gin. While its volume growth continues, that growth is primarily in the lower-priced segments under ₹1,000, according to data from CIABC.
Indeed, Indian brands haven’t made any significant inroad in the premium vodka segment, leaving the space dominated by foreign players, such as Diageo’s Smirnoff, Absolut and Grey Goose. A few players such as NV Distilleries & Breweries, which sells the Smoke brand of vodka, and has innovated with flavours such as saffron and mango, are the exception. Somewhere, this lack of homegrown innovation has hindered vodka’s appeal.
Gupta said India needs to introspect as to how to grow the vodka category again. “We believe there is a gap in the super-premium vodka segment and we will launch something in the higher-end category soon,” he said.
The expectation from vodka was always that it was “clean” and delivered the same standard experience every time it was consumed, said Gupta. But with other white spirits, it has become more about who is offering newer flavours. “I don’t think gin is taking away the consumption of any other white spirit. The biggest share of white’s growth is possibly from someone who normally drinks brown; women and other newer age drinkers,” he added.
Anand Virmani, co-founder of Nao Spirits, appears to concur with Gupta. “To my mind, it is not a vodka versus gin debate. There is some migration from other categories. Some are beer drinkers, some are new drinkers. In fact, India is adding 20 million new drinkers each year. New drinkers generally begin with lighter spirits,” he said.
While the battle for India’s white spirits market is far from over, one thing is crystal clear: Premiumization is the name of the game today.
Creating the Perfect Winter Drink with Whiskey and Two Essential Ingredients
On February 24, the Slumberland American Birkebeiner will be held in Wisconsin. Known as the Birkie, this event is the most significant cross-country skiing race in North America. The course starts in Cable, passes through forest on the Birkie Trail, extends across Lake Hayward, traverses the American Birkebeiner International Bridge, and ends on the snow-laden Main Street in Hayward. This year, the American Birkebeiner Ski Foundation (ABSF) and Tattersall Distilling collaborated to celebrate the race’s 50th anniversary with a specially crafted spirit.
The commemorative drink is called WI-SKI, which was conceptualized to honor the Birkie’s 50th year.
WI-SKI is a straight rye matured in maple syrup barrels previously used. The drink embodies the Birkie and traditional Nordic skiing, offering a peppery touch with a bit of sweetness. This combination is even more enjoyable after an active day on the trails. Despite not skiing myself, I had the opportunity to mix WI-SKI in a cocktail, producing a perfect winter drink.
The Cold Rush is Tattersall’s rendition of the Gold Rush cocktail, traditionally made from honey syrup, lemon, and bourbon. With just three simple ingredients, this tantalizing mix infuses warmth from within, whether you are out partaking in winter sports or just a spectator.
Creating a home-made honey syrup for this drink is quite easy. It involves dissolving an equal measure of honey with boiling water.
Are you excited to make an amazing cocktail?
Give a try to the Cold Rush with WI-SKI.
This tasty drink has honey blended with a maple-flavored whiskey, resulting in an excellent fusion. It holds a balanced sweetness, while the fresh lemon juice imparts brightness and a tangy taste. Tattersall enriches their three-year-old Straight Rye Whiskey by aging it in used bourbon barrels, which had maple syrup aged in them for a period extending more than six months. This process introduces notes of maple syrup and faint notes of bourbon into the whiskey.
While I do think this whiskey would be great to try neat, I’m so excited to have discovered this great cocktail that I’ll be drinking it on repeat. WI-SKI would also work great in a Hot Toddy, for those times when you really need to warm up from the cold and snow.
Proceeds from the purchase of WI-SKI benefit the American Birkebeiner Ski Foundation’s work to build a new outdoor center at its Mt. Telemark Village property in Cable, Wisconsin.
Have you tried a Cold Rush (or a Gold Rush)? Let me know what you think in the comments!
The Transformation of Vodka: Seeking a New Identity After Being Shunned by the Wealthy
New Delhi: Yangdup Lama, co-founder of Sidecar Bar in Delhi, has noticed a shift in alcohol consumption trends. Lama states that vodka’s popularity has declined, being superseded by gin — a trend he did not anticipate when opening Sidecar five years ago. He notes, “Gin consumption has been consistent, unlike vodka.”
A decade ago, Lama would order an equivalent number of vodka and whisky bottles, alongside a small quantity of gin. Nowadays, the count of whisky remained unaltered, but gin increased to eight bottles, while vodka decreased to merely four.
The same trend is observed by regular party-host Vir Kapoor, 37, living in west Delhi. According to Kapoor, gin has become increasingly popular among his friends, who previously turned to vodka as a default white spirit. Now, gin is a staple in Kapoor’s bar, with bottles such as Bombay Sapphire, Greater Than, or Stranger and Sons regularly featured at his parties. Furthermore, his friends have also expressed interest in premium sipping tequila. Both Greater Than and Stranger and Sons are Indian craft gins.
Similar transformations can be seen all over India. Vodka, once the leading white spirit of India and a peer to whisky, now faces stiff competition. Factors behind this phenomenon include the growing popularity of gin. This preference change is discouraging for those considering entering the vodka market, as gin — specifically premium gin, with its characteristic juniper taste — is now the favored beverage. Vodka also competes with high-end tequila, agave-based spirits, and white rum in the crowded white spirits space.
Gin has a history stretching back over a century in India’s liquor market. Despite this, it was often overlooked in favor of other spirits, relegated to the sidelines and largely untouched by innovation. This led to a somewhat stagnant market, with gin consumption in India remaining low.
However, a shift began to occur around 2017. New companies like Nao Spirits and Third Eye Distillery entered the scene, introducing premium gin brands like Greater Than and Stranger & Sons. These were not only high-quality, but also came with hefty price tags. Before long, gin had overtaken entry-level vodka in popularity.
Industry figures indicate that India’s gin market has experienced phenomenal growth in the past few years. In 2017, only about 12,000 cases were sold, but this figure has climbed to roughly 320,000 cases today. It’s important to note that a case typically contains nine bottles, each holding either 750ml or 1,000ml, depending on the specific category of liquor.
Recognizing this burgeoning demand, several companies decided to capitalize on it in 2023. Close to a half dozen companies, among them Radico Khaitan, Spaceman Spirits, Third Eye Distillery, and NV Distilleries & Breweries, launched new gin brands and variants. Some even ventured into the rum market, introducing new white and golden varieties.
Today, numerous other large companies have also enthusiastically joined the trend of white spirits. Allied Blenders and Distillers (ABD), a brown spirits whisky maker primarily, has just launched a premium gin named Zoya. Meanwhile, Associated Alcohol & Breweries Ltd has also introduced its own premium gin brand, Nicobar.
Indian gins that are priced over ₹1,000 have been growing rapidly, outperforming imported premium gins. While four years ago they only accounted for just over a quarter of the premium sector, today this figure has risen to above 40%, as reported by the Confederation of Indian Alcoholic Beverage Companies (CIABC). They also noted that the portion of imported gins has decreased from 74% to 59% in the same timeframe.
This shift in the world of white spirits is not merely about taste, it’s a tale of premiumization. Consumers are more than ever willing to pay higher for quality and experience. Capitalizing on this trend is gin, a versatile spirit with a thriving craft scene. As Lama states, “10-15 years ago, vodka was the most trendy spirit, but gin and craft spirits came in. Dark-spirit making companies have managed to capitalize on the craft market, unlike vodka”.
Siddharth Banerji, who is the owner and Managing Director of Kyndal Group, the spirits manufacturer behind well-known scotch brands such as Cutty Sark and The Famous Grouse, expressed that the trend toward premium, higher-quality spirits is the growth engine for the white spirits sector specifically gin. In different spirit categories, the number of brands within the premium segment has increased. Gin has benefited most from this, since these spirits are presented in impressive packaging with innovation attached.
“All of this has led to individuals exploring a multitude of new brands. This contrasts heavily with previous years where folks were rather set in their ways regarding the brands and categories they preferred. In addition to this, there has also been a significant rise in per capita income. This is evident in India’s surge of ‘premiumization’. Moreover, people have been prioritizing quality over quantity when it comes to consumption since the pandemic,” said Banerji.
The firm he works for is currently in the process of integrating an international tequila into their range of products. Banerji believes that the most rapid growth in India’s spirit industry will be in the premium segment, specifically in the 1,000–2,000 rupees per bottle price range. That said, it is worth noting that despite the intense competition among white spirits, brown spirits still own an impressive 97% of the total market share. This is largely propelled by mass-produced, cost-effective offerings.
Gin, while it is showing extremely quick growth, has volume figures that are still merely a quarter of vodka’s. Vodka has managed to retain its growth momentum, primarily in the bigger economy category. Premium vodka, however, has only experienced a slight nominal increase in its market share. According to IWSR, a consultancy specializing in drinks, in the previous calendar year, the overall growth in the vodka segment was higher than gin’s at 35%. Regardless, in the ‘premium and above’ category, gin managed to grow more rapidly than vodka, with growth rates of 177% in comparison to vodka’s 66% for the same year.
Competing in the white spirits market isn’t exclusive to gin. There is increasing competition from other varieties of white spirits, such as tequila, agave-based spirits, and even white and golden rum. These have become increasingly popular, especially amongst the young, upwardly mobile Indian demographic. We’ve seen new entrants like Allied Blenders, Himmaleh Spirits, and Associated Alcohol & Breweries dabbling in and experimenting with a broad array of beverages for drinkers. This trend was a factor in Diageo’s decision to release its own Don Julio tequila a couple of months back.
Vikram Achanta, the co-founder and CEO of beverage consultancy Tulleeho, has noticed a significant swing in the popular preferences for spirits. Tequila, has recently grabbed attention. “Although agave consumption is falling in the U.S., it has gained substantial popularity in India in the past half year. This trend can be attributed to the rising popularity of bars and restaurants with Mexican and Spanish themes, and to an increase in home consumption. Thanks to lower consumption in America, we have more available for markets like ours. The supply of agave spirits is not likely to become an issue soon, and we expect to see more companies investing and innovating in this sector,” Achanta explains.
Internationally renowned beverage producers like Diageo and Bacardi, are now turning their focus onto to their tequila lines Don Julio (Diageo), and Patron (Bacardi) for the Indian market. Locally, companies like DesmondJi that cultivate agave in India, are rising, supplying businesses keen on creating their own signature agave spirits in the Indian market. These notably include Maya Pistola Agavepura, launched by Indian restauranteur Rakshay Dhariwal in the last year.
“Premium tequila is currently enjoying a favorable image among consumers, with a notable rise in interest observed from both genders due to its reputation for providing a ‘clean’ high. Irrespective of the truth of this belief, it certainly has been boosting demand,” Achanta remarked.
In his opinion, now is a good time to be in the clear spirits industry. White rum, gin, and agave spirits account for over a million cases sold annually according to Achanta, with the entire white spirits industry accounting for sales between four to six million cases.
“It (white spirits) is a very, very exciting category right now with a lot of innovation going on in some spirits,” said Alok Gupta, ABD’s managing director. “Gin has had this astounding growth because it offers new experiences. Globally, today, the only two white spirit categories spoken of are gin and tequila. There is a lot of curiosity around mezcal- and agave-based spirits and Indians really want to know what the hype is all about.”
The industry is yet to put out any official data for this fiscal year, but Gupta estimated the market for tequila to be about 75,000–80,000 cases per annum, growing at a rate of 40%.
Meanwhile, vodka, said some aficionados, appears to be suffering from a bit of an identity crisis. It has been stuck in the ‘value’ spirits rut, and is struggling to keep up with gin. While its volume growth continues, that growth is primarily in the lower-priced segments under ₹1,000, according to data from CIABC.
Indeed, Indian brands haven’t made any significant inroad in the premium vodka segment, leaving the space dominated by foreign players, such as Diageo’s Smirnoff, Absolut and Grey Goose. A few players such as NV Distilleries & Breweries, which sells the Smoke brand of vodka, and has innovated with flavours such as saffron and mango, are the exception. Somewhere, this lack of homegrown innovation has hindered vodka’s appeal.
Gupta expressed that India needs to reconsider how to revive the vodka category. He stated, “We believe there is a void in the super-premium vodka segment and we are planning to introduce something in the high-end category soon.”
According to Gupta, vodka was always viewed as “clean” and offered a consistent standard experience each time it was consumed. However, with other white spirits, it has evolved to be more about who introduces new flavors. He argued, “Gin is not replacing the consumption of any other white spirit. The majority of the growth in white spirits is possibly from regular brown spirit drinkers, women, or newer of-age drinkers.”
Anand Virmani, co-founder of Nao Spirits, seems to agree with Gupta. He argued, “It’s not about vodka versus gin. There’s a shift from other categories. Some are beer drinkers, others are new to drinking. India adds approximately 20 million new drinkers each year. Typically, new drinkers begin with lighter spirits.”
Even though the competition for India’s white spirits market is still ongoing, one thing is evident: Premiumization is the current trend.
Top Whiskey Collections Currently Available in the Market
Starting a whiskey collection is one thing. You add bottles here and there as you go. But buying an official whiskey collection is another endeavor entirely. Every year, big names in the spirits industry release full-on collections of whiskeys. These are not for the novice. Going all in on a whiskey collection often means spending thousands — sometimes tens of thousands — of dollars for extremely rare and unique collection whiskeys that you’ll likely never see again.
So where do you even start with a task like this? I’d argue that you start slowly and do a ton of research. And that research starts right now.
Below, I’m calling out four current whiskey collections that broadly represent whiskey as a category and are full of some pretty goddamn tasty bottles. We’ll be looking at one collection from the U.S. and three from Scotland (there are so many more, but we have to start somewhere). When looking at price, it’s important to remember that even with an inflated secondary market for rare and collectible whiskeys in the U.S., it’s nowhere near the level in price or rarity of Scotch whisky. You have to remember that the bourbons and ryes on this list are inflated prices (I list MSRPs too, for clarity). Whereas the Scotch whisky on this list is the actual suggested retail price without that secondary markup from retailers.
Pricing semantics aside, I curated this list to offer you some dream scenarios when buying a whisk(e)y collection. If you want to start with a significantly softer landing, I love recommending the Westward Whiskey: Columbia Collection, seen below.
This collection is an excellent starting point for exploring the world of whiskey tasting. It includes a unique American single malt from a renowned craft distiller. Moreover, it’s comprised of only two bottles available at the affordable price of $164. Although not insignificant, it’s a real bargain compared to some of the prices you will encounter soon.
Now, let’s examine the premium options!
This collection offers a selection of Glenfiddich releases, all over 20 years old, each with a unique finish. The unpeated malt in these whiskies excellently demonstrates the potential of mature whiskey when appropriately treated with a finished barrel.
Total Price: Around $2,430
ABV: 40%
Average Price: $188
Rum casks and sweet single malts are a great match. This whisky starts by mellowing for 21 years in ex-bourbon casks before that whisky is transferred to Caribbean rum barrels for a final rest. That whisky is then blended and proofed down for bottling.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The dominant scent is reminiscent of perfume, highlighting sticky toffee pudding elements – dates, nutmeg, toffee, vanilla and more. This is followed by undertones of cherry bark and aged leather.
Palate: The palate offers a delicate undertone of cream soda, paired with the same floral perfume, cinnamon apple wood and a touch of sultana and prunes.
Finish: Towards the finish, there’s a shift towards floral and honey elements, evoking the scent of freshly baked banana bread. The creamy notes amplify, developing into a distinct Key lime pie sensation.
Final Thoughts:
This is a beautiful and subtle creation of unpeated single malt. It carries a pleasant tone of bourbon with a hint of rum, which feels more like a concentrated rum fragrance than an actual gulp from a rum bottle. Ideally, this spirit is savored slowly, preferably over a large rock.
Alcohol By Volume: 40%
Typical Price: $260
The brand’s yearly special release, as indicated by its name, is matured for more than 23 years in both ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. This whisky is then filled into French Cuvée casks previously used for champagne. This is subsequently brought down to proof and bottled, making its arrival just in time for the holiday season, thus completing the Grand Reserve’s annual collection.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: Here, you will find the quintessential malt aroma paired with stewed apples and pears. There is a gentle sourness and a floral hint atop a base of buttery brioche, rounded off with a suggestion of maple wood.
Palate: Upon first taste, the palate is both lush and malleable with a central note of vanilla. Additional flavours include pear candy, aged toffee, creamed honey, and touches of wood from an orchard. The palate also sports a mild sweetness.
Finish: Finished with a feel of pear and apple skins, the drink leaves you with impressions of bark, cores, and stems. The end notes blend in soft floral honey with a trace of proofing water.
Bottom Line:
This is the quintessential unpeated malt from beginning to end. This is the pour you offer to someone who wants top-tier quality matched with comfort. It’s a whisky with no sharpness, just smoothing. Each sip will remind you of the warmth of returning home.
ABV: 43.8%
Average Price: $529
Glenfiddich Grande Couronne spends over 25 years resting in ex-bourbon casks. The selected casks are then vatted, and the whisky is placed in super rare French cognac casks for a final rest prior to vatting, proofing, and bottling.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The scent of French oak presents itself with a burst of vanilla bean, gentle brioche, and a deep, caramelized apple tarte tatin, coupled with plenty of woody winter spice and delicately buttery pastry.
Palate: A suggestion of almond, a trace of pear, and soft espresso cream swirl on the palate. The caramel and apple from the apple tarte tatin work in harmony with the mellow oakiness lightly touched by pipe tobacco.
Finish: That soft oak delivers a touch of an old wine cellar as the gentle tobacco takes on notes of pear and apple with a soft cinnamon, nutmeg, and cedar vibe at the very end.
Bottom Line:
This is a subtle and delicious whisky. It’s like a walk through a Parisian boulangerie just as the pastries are coming out of the oven. It’s delicate and divine as a sipper.
ABV: 45.1%
Average Price: $1,453
The brand-new bourbon Glenfiddich has launched a limited edition bourbon that marks their initial venture into the world of Japanese cask finishing. With a significant period of 29 years spent in American oak and re-fill oak, the whisky is transferred to an ex-Awamori cask – which is a type of a rice spirit found in Okinawa – for an additional 9 months to mellow. Finally, the barrels are batched and bottled with a subtle hint of proofing water.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: An immediate delight to the senses, the nose is rich with dense notes of caramelized orange and grapefruit peels, with a garnish of roasted almonds. Traces of allspice and salt appear, with a faint hint of confectioner’s sugar, leading on to a sweet toffee-like maltiness that resonates with an underlying tone of dark, fruity leather. This exquisite blend is finely balanced with a creamy mix of vanilla and chocolate, and ends subtly with a hint of dried savory herbs and a whiff of aged oak.
Palate: The delightful combination of ultra creamy vanilla and toffee blends beautifully with the subtle hint of soft oak and caramelized malt. A slight tartness from green apples and the rustic scent of tree barks from old wicker baskets complement the taste of date tobacco and salted caramel chocolate ganache exquisitely.
Finish: The initial taste of tobacco transforms into the flavour of sticky toffee pudding and mincemeat pie, as the creaminess continues to intensify on the long spiced malt finish.
Final Thoughts:
The modern Glenfiddich might just be the best yet. It’s depth and unique nuances makes it truly exceptional, potentially even surprising to the seasoned whiskey enthusiast. There’s a myriad of flavours to explore, so take your time to fully enjoy this sensational journey. Addition of water is optional and can be done as per personal preference. Enjoy the ride as it unravels its treasure trove of tastes.
The premier collection of American whiskeys in the 21st century is often considered to be this one. It consists of five distinct ones from the Buffalo Trace Distillery that’s located in Frankfort, Kentucky. They represent exceptional small batches garnered from the distillery’s finest barrels across four signature brands.
The challenge, however, is that these whiskeys are seldom available at their recommended retail price, which turns the process of acquiring these whiskeys into a quest.
Aggregate Price: $625 (Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price)/$7,921 (after-market retail)
Alcohol By Volume (ABV): 67.5%
Average Price: $1,199
The batch of George T. Stagg for 2023 was distilled back in the spring of 2008 and left to mature in warehouses C, I, K, L, and M around the Buffalo Trace campus situated in Frankfort. After allowing it to rest for 15 lengthy years, the barrels were finally blended and bottled as it is, without any dilution, at the cask strength.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The first scent that greets you is a classic blend of Cherry Coke, old leather tobacco pouches, and rich buttercream using natural vanilla bean, reminiscent of a fall orchard. Gradually, an unexpected layer of Neapolitan ice cream surfaces, displaying dominant undertones of strawberry and chocolate ice cream.
Palate: Picture yourself in a crisp apple orchard on an autumn day, crunching leaves underfoot and savouring the deep dark cherry, cinnamon bark, clove buds, and allspice berries flavours. Get a surprise hint of Neopolitan ice cream making a late appearance.
Finish: The finish is a pleasing blend of creamy vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry. It takes you back to the old orchards and fall leaves, with a hint of rickhouse floors and soft cherry-spiced tobacco leaves rolled with cedar. Enjoy the smudging sage aroma and the comforting warmth of a Kentucky hug at the end.
Final Thoughts:
This barrel-proof whiskey surpasses the high-alcohol-content reputation of the brand. It presents a depth of flavours that unravel as you take your time to indulge in it. Dare to explore – add some water or pour it over a chunky ice cube. You are in for a bold and riveting experience.
ABV: 45%
Average Price: $1,799
The 2023 Sazerac is a compilation of rye whiskey barrels that were initially filled during the fall of 2004 and the spring of 2005. This results in an 18-year-old rye that also comprises a hint of 19-year-old extract. These barrels were stored in warehouses K, L, and M on the Buffalo Trace campus for all these years before being batched, tested for proof, and bottled without further alterations.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The alluring scent of leathery spice barks, combined with the rich aroma of rye bread covered in aniseed, clove-infused oranges, and a touch of sweet pear captivates the senses.
Palate: The palate is treated to the traditional flavors of dark winter spice, complemented by black pepper, cumin, and chili pepper powder. The taste of candied BBQ pork and new leather transitions into a mid-palate rich in vanilla wrapped in soft oak.
Finish: From the soft oakiness emerges a light and refreshing sweetness of honey, balanced by the mild tones of pine and cinnamon bark immersed in warm apple cider. A subtle hint of barrelhouse completes the finish.
Bottom Line:
This is truly a top-notch American rye whiskey. Don’t let the reduced proof fool you- this whiskey is best served neat, so you can fully appreciate the rich, nuanced flavors. This whiskey would greatly enhance classic drinks like a Manhattan or Sazerac.
ABV: 66.8%
Average Price: $1,975
Known for their wheated bourbon, Buffalo Trace reintroduces us to their 2023 Weller BTAC. This particular batch was distilled in spring of 2011 and rested for a dozen years in warehouses C, L, M, and N. The barrels were then batched together and the whiskey was bottled directly from the barrel, preserving its pure, undiluted strength.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: Experience a profound and rich essence of candied black cherry intertwined with dry cedar bark, molasses, organic vanilla beans, nutty aroma of brown butter, and vintage leather laced with pipe tobacco finished off with hints of smoky sage and dry chili pepper flakes.
Palate: The palate reveals an enthusiastic burst of ABVs, sparking a tingling sensation at the tip of the tongue. The sweet floral honey, delightful cherry cobbler topped with the creamy vanilla ice cream, and irresistible brown butter streusel infused with nutmeg, cinnamon, and clove unfold onto a subtle hint of dry orange tobacco.
Finish: The finish introduces cinnamon sticks and clove buds bathed in maple syrup accompanied by the scent of old leather boots, the hint of oak in an aged rickhouse, the fragrance of orchard barks, and subtle notes of vanilla and cherry cake.
Bottom Line:
This is the top-tier offering when referring to the Buffalo Trace Antique Collection from 2023. Astoundingly tasty whiskey, whether bourbon or otherwise, doesn’t get better than this.
ABV: 62.45%
Average Price: $749
Handy 2023 is distilled from straight rye, noticeably without “Kentucky” listed on the label. Barrels aging for over six years were blended, and the whiskey was bottled as it was at its cask strength.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The aroma presents itself with leathery orange peels and subtle hints of lemon poppyseed cake. Along with these are notes of pine bark soaked in sap, caramel with salt sprinkled on top, and tobacco with accents of cumin and chili.
Palate: The first taste that hits the palate is of dense rye bread with a gentle touch of molasses sweetness. As the ABVs tingle the tongue, deep and dark orange marmalade, pine-infused honey, delicate vanilla oils, and a hint of potpourri laced leather become apparent on the mid-palate.
Finish: That potpourri vibe mellowing fades on the finish as vanilla and star fruit arrive with a sense of dried chili and star anise hint at black licorice and sarsaparilla bark on the dry end.
Bottom Line:
This is one of the best Handy releases since the late aughts. It’s very unique and floral-forward, so take your time and find your place in the profile, and then revel in that moment. You’ll be rewarded with a unique and delicious pour of whiskey.
ABV: 50.5%
Average Price: $2,199
This year’s production of Eagle Rare bourbon is older than usual, clocking in at 19 years and three months. The label’s “17 Years” signifies the minimum age of the barrels utilized within the blend. The whiskey in this latest release was distilled and barreled in spring 2004, maturing in different warehouses at the Buffalo Trace properties. Upon reaching the desired age, the whiskey was simply proofed and bottled.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The aroma evokes a scene of consuming an exquisite Black Forest cake inside a vintage barrel warehouse, alongside a dormant fruit orchard in autumn. This olfactory journey continues with an air pleasantly humid with a light drizzle, underfoot crunching of fallen leaves, and subtle notes of cinnamon cake, smoldering sage, and sweetgrass.
Palate: Orange cake and salted caramel lead on the palate with a sense of dark chocolate tobacco moving the mid-palate toward dry roasting herbs and a touch of nuttiness.
Finish: Cinnamon sticks and nutmeg pop up on the finish with a hint of vanilla buttercream and eggnog before the spices dry out with a sense of mince meat pie and old leather tobacco pouches.
Bottom Line:
This is the quintessential Kentucky bourbon. This is the stuff you pour for a pro when they want a perfect bourbon pour. It also makes an incredible old fashioned.
This new collection from The Dalmore is a masterclass on how Spanish sherry can influence single malt (and how to do it right). These whiskies are like a Ph.D. course in whisky while still holding onto being 100% delicious.
Total price: $37,500 (set of three)
ABV: 48.2%
Average Price: $37,500 (set of three)
The Dalmore has launched their most recent release, which is the youngest among a trio of superior whiskies. This bottling, which is extremely limited in availability, emanates from The Dalmore’s signature malt that aged for many years inside ex-bourbon casks. This whisky was then collected together and placed into a González Byass 2002 Vintage Sherry Cask (Cask #4), where it aged for additional years until it reached an optimal stage. The final bottling was performed without any alterations to the whisky, to emphasize the influence of that finishing cask on the distinctive character of The Dalmore.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The aroma invites you with a vibrant hint of caramelized oranges, freshly collected floral honey, and ripe, vine-picked apricots. These are layered with rich tones of vanilla pods, dried cacao, and freshly harvested almonds, accentuated by a hint of cherry syrup.
Palate: The taste reveals the notes of cakes generously loaded with raisins and spiced with zesty orange. It further unfolds with the hint of cherry syrup and almond cookies blended with vanilla oils, giving way to the image of sultanas baking under the hot sun.
Finish: There’s a buttery sense of a fresh croissant on the finish next to creamy espresso for sipping, ginger rock candy, and lush vanilla cake cut with more orange oil, almond, and poppy seed.
Bottom Line:
This is one of the lightest and freshest The Dalmores in a while. The soft brightness of the Spanish sherry oak shifts this whisky to something unique and kind of new. It’s wildly bright with a soft sweetness that transports you to a sunny vineyard in Spain with grapes fermenting on the stem all around you as you sip a subtly delectable single malt.
ABV: 55.3%
Average Price: $37,500 (set of three)
The narrative of this whisky begins with The Dalmore’s ex-bourbon-cask-aged single malt. This whisky was then relocated into a 30-year-old Matusalem Oloroso Sherry, a sherry recognized for its dark, sweet, spicy undertones and a plummy depth. After a significant period of rest, the whisky was sealed in cask strength to embrace and enhance the dark sherry flavors in the whisky.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The nose captivates with the aroma of black-tea-soaked dates, prunes reminiscent of aged leather, and raisins flushed with rum. These scents pave the way for the essence of black licorice ropes, a dark yet creamy honey with a dash of summer blooming flowers, and a luminous burst of star fruit. Beneath all these complex layers hide a profound sense of bourbon vanilla.
Palate: Mincemeat pies and sticky toffee pudding (cut with orange zest and salted toffee) drive the lush palate toward bold marmalade, brandy-soaked pears cut with marzipan, and more of that black licorice with a hint of absinth candy.
Finish: Black cherries soaked in brandy and dipped in salted dark chocolate arrive late on the finish with a sense of sasparilla bark, dark molasses, and more of that mince meat pie vibe next to candied orange tobacco and whispers of cedar.
Bottom Line:
This feels like The Dalmore turned up to MAX volume. If you’re a fan of the distillery, this will be a delight for your senses. It’s deep and dark Christmas-y malt that’s layered with dark, sweet, and spicy sherry that feels black and syrupy. Pour this over a single rock and you’ll be set for sipping all year long.
ABV: 46.8%
Average Price: $37,500 (set of three)
This long-aged version of whisky rests in ex-bourbon barrels for several years before it undergoes the batching process. It is then refilled into a 30-year-old Apostoles sherry cask, which is known for its sweet, spicy, and plummy sherry with deep woodiness. The whisky is bottled at cask strength 100% without any dilution.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The aroma of summer honeycombs paired with bright, fresh oranges welcomes you. This is further accentuated by a hint of fire-roasted chestnuts, fresh raisins, sultanas, flavorous dates, deep bourbon vanilla and a touch of almond oil.
Palate: On the front of the palate, the vanilla flavor intensifies and becomes rich. The sweetness of the orange blends with the bitterness of dark chocolate, lightly sprinkled with salt. This pairs beautifully with hints of huckleberry, black currant, and grapefruit pith, accompanied by a flutter of oaky tobacco.
Finish: The taste concludes with the sweetness of apricot jam, served over a soft scone with a hint of butter. This drives the finish towards juicy orange mixed with sharp cinnamon, chocolate, and sea salt. A side of grilled pineapple studded with cloves and nutmeg gives a wonderful final touch.
Bottom Line:
This pour of whisky is magical, managing to retain its bright and youthful spirit while delivering incredibly deep flavor notes. This unique The Dalmore experience resonates with the essence of a warm Spanish day, delicately layered with a tantalizing single malt.
Diageo’s Prima & Ultima 2023 Collection is an amalgamation of Diageo’s single malts from iconic, as well as extinct, distilleries spread across Scotland. These whiskies come from barrels once thought lost to time, monitored by the legends of Scotch whisky themselves, and some of the most unique casks drawn from actual historical eras.
This collection is not to be taken lightly. It contains whiskies we will never encounter again. This implies that you will have to be willing to invest substantially to be part of this collection.
Total Price: Approximately $48,000
ABV: 48.2%
Average Price:
The whisky from Brora — a Highland distillery that has been dormant since 1983 up until 2021 — is a real throwback to a bygone era. The whisky was made from the final hogsheads that were filled on the 15th of December 1977, marking the end of whisky production at the distillery during the “Age of Peat”. This makes this extremely rare bottling a glimpse into whiskies that simply do not exist anymore.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: There is an initial gentle hint of a beeswax candle followed by baby oil fragrance, smooth caramel candies, and a hint of salty sugar sweets. A faint smell of calming fireplace smoke is discernible in the distance.
Palate: The palate experiences a softening effect of the baby oil, as the smoke quotient picks up strength, evoking images of spicy wood barks and shreds of cedar. There is also the presence of a delicate ginger-spiced apple cake with a dash of red pepper flakes inducing some warmth on the tongue.
Finish: As the experience concludes, the ginger intensifies with a sweet overtone. This is followed by a subdued, dry mushroom flavor and a firewood bark. The finale is graced by a soft tobacco chew taste underscored by pronounced spearmint, aged oak, and additional spice barks.
Final Thoughts:
This whisky pour is indeed quite incredible. The peaty smokiness is so subdued and reflective of a hearth at home that you may scarcely recognize its peat content. It offers a cozy and lush experience, with a bit of spice kick to remind you of life’s vitality.
Alcohol By Volume: 52%
Typical Cost: $2,199
Consistency is the key with Clynelish. This special release stands out as the last of its era. It represents a blend of two experimental barrels from the company’s storage—Pedro Ximenez and Oloroso sherry oak—that were filled in 1996.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The aroma is gentle and refined, with hints of orange and grapefruit oils leading the way. This is followed by an undercurrent of subtly polished wood and a hidden wisp of smoke emanating from a freshly extinguished vanilla candle wick.
Palate: The taste is rich and almost thick in texture, enveloping the palate with intense flavours of freshly picked apples combined with burnt toffee encrusted in almonds. These are overlayed with a dusting of French vanilla chocolate powder and an intriguing hint of dried ancho chili powder that’s almost smouldering.
Finish: The finale sees a turn towards the spicy, with a distinct hit of bright red chili. However, this is soon tempered by a solid punch of salt, smoothening the journey back towards the comforting flavours of burnt toffee, tender vanilla candle wick, and faint remnants of vanilla chocolate tobacco flakes barely singed by flame.
Bottom Line:
Experience a mesmerizing sip of Scotch whisky that artfully weaves together uncanny flavor notes into a coherent whole. A hint of water can reveal nuances of candle, vanilla, and apple toffee, integrating them into a creamy blend. Take this journey slowly and relish the rewarding taste.
ABV: 50.7%
Average Price: $2,899
The final barrels from Lagavulin’s ‘Golden Year’ are the subject of this conversation. Mike Nicolson, a whisky legend, produced and barrelled this whisky in 1997. This bottling serves as a look back at an era of Lagavulin distillery, similar to an oak time machine sending us back in time.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: Its strong, peat-dominant aroma can be likened to freshly ignited Ace bandages near a tire yard. This slowly mellows to the scent of birch water-soaked acacia in a dying campfire, as a pot of greens splash over flickering flames, all tied together with a trace of sea breeze and rock candy.
Palate: The creamy palate introduces you to mild hints of dirty carrots and parsnips. There’s a hint of salted rock candy, seawater-drenched logs on a smoky fire, and aromatic herbs burning after being immersed in beef tallow.
Finish: The transformation of campfire smoke from blue to white to transparent is beautifully observed as flames dance and wood turns into coal below. The fleeting aroma of salted sweet carrots, charred steak bones, and subtle hints of sea breeze making its way through the orchard trees is wonderfully intoxicating.
Final Thoughts:
Welcome back to the age-old charm of Lagavulin. It’s bold, audacious, savoury, eccentric, salty, and smoky in one. Drinking this whisky makes you crave a steak cooked over an open flame. This is traditional Scottish haggis, served with neeps and tatties, enjoyed alongside a dram of whisky. An old cliche it might be, but this the sort of whisky that might just put hair on your chest.
Alcohol By Volume: 55.5%
Average Price: $1,995
Pittyvaich distillery ended its operations in 1993. This whisky was brewed using the remaining Pedro Ximénez and Oloroso butts. This implies that it will be the final Pittyvaich 30-Year released.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: It manifests a complex blend of dark fruits including cherry, prune, currant, raspberry steeped in mulled wine and profoundly spicy sherry. Concurrently, one can discern hints of dark spiced Christmas cakes with minced meat, the subtle aroma of orange oils, and vanilla paste in the background. It is accompanied by a faint trace of creamy chocolate that’s almost stale.
Palate: Those dark sherry-soaked fruits drive the palate toward dry red wine that’s oaky and tobacco-filled next to soft chocolate that’s just kissed with cinnamon and red chili flakes before a moment of brioche and marmalade sneaks in.
Finish: The peppery tobacco kicks up on the finish as the mulled wine spices and dark fruits stew toward a soft winter cake with plenty of minced meat and almost rumminess before brandy-soaked cherries dipped in dark chocolate layered with tobacco on the very end.
Bottom Line:
This is dark, spicy, and fruity whisky that shines as an after-dinner sipper, especially in colder months. It’s also the last of its kind, so maybe pour it sparingly.
ABV: 55.2%
Average Price: $1,699
This whisky is also the last of its kind. It’s made with the very last barrels filled in 1996 in Oban. The barrels used were refill European oak, adding a subtly to the aging over the decades.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: The initial scent invites with gentle hints of a beachside fair – salt water candies, salted butter, freshly shucked oysters, sugar-coated apples, and glazed nuts. Behind all this, faintly detectable, is a distant coastal bonfire with a dash of cinnamon-flavored tobacco.
Palate: The flavors of stewed pear and sugar-coated apple dip into sea salt, alongside a taste of smoky seaweed that pulls the flavor profile towards subtle notes of vintage dock planks, lobster cages, and a hint of chili pepper hovering above smoked oyster shells.
Finish: The finale swings back towards the candy, with a shade of orange extracts and beeswax before a mild tobacco flavor with a slight bite presents itself, accompanied by pear and apple soaked in brandy, lightly spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg, alongside faintly burning beach driftwood.
Overall:
This delightful malt is softly peated and conjures faint memories of times spent by the ocean enjoying sweets, seafood, and warm campfires.
Alcohol By Volume: 53.4%
Typical Cost: $16,147
Originating from the esteemed Port Ellen Distillery on Islay, which resumed operations in 2023, this whisky is a product of the final four American oak hogsheads filled in 1978. For years, famed whisky distiller Iain MacArthur expertly managed these barrels until they achieved the perfect condition for bottling.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: There is a sensation similar to looking up a cold chimney flue at the beginning, which then transitions towards walking down a rock jetty sprayed with sea water as fishing boats arrive. This is followed by the subtle dominance of soft, creamy fudge with a hint of salt, topped off with a smear of wet coal.
Palate: The palate resembles the oiliness of a classic Islay peated malt — it embodies a strong sense of smoked seaweed next to a beach fire stacked with aged oyster and clam shells. Dried red chilis smoldering nearby deliver a wisp of Scotch broom.
Finish: The chili spice intensifies towards the end while the salinity from the water tones it down towards a subtle hint of chewing tobacco, aged sea stones, and linseed oil on vintage gloves.
Bottom Line:
If you enjoy unique, complex flavours, this whisky might be just the thing for you. Its distinct character is reminiscent of traditional Islay peated malt, which is both intense and delightfully rewarding.
ABV: 47.7%
Average Price: $2,899
This whisky was made from barrels that were lost to time in an old Dufftown warehouse. The batch was made from the last The Singleton of Dufftown casks from 1985, closing the book on that era’s whiskies.
Tasting Notes:
Nose: Stewed pears with saffron and soft apple sauce cut with nutmeg and cinnamon glide the nose toward a mix of almond and coconut rolled in oats, buttery pastry, and raisins as poached apricots and a hint of yellow melon skin arrive late.
Palate: The palate is lush and full of those stewed and poached fruits layered with spice barks and buds next to soft notes of slate before a hint of banana bread with walnuts and plenty of salted butter arrives.
Finish: The end gets even softer as the spice from the fruits and banana bread fades toward dry old oak staves with a hint of birchbark and an old wine cellar evokes a dry yet soft finish.
Bottom Line:
This is the most approachable whisky in 2023’s Prima & Ultima Collection. This is so easy to sip on its own while delivering a beautifully supple unpeated malt experience. Drop in a little water to find a creamy vanilla-forward depth.
ABV: 50.9%
Average Price: $5,999
This whisky is extraordinary in two ways. Firstly, it was distilled during a unique heatwave that graced the Isle of Skye in 1976. This unusual weather caused the still to run abnormally hot, resulting in a more extensive and prolonged interaction between the distillate and the copper still. The whisky was then casked and left untouched for an impressive 46 years. This brings us to the second reason for its uniqueness – it is the oldest Talisker release ever.
Tasting Notes:
Scent: The aroma of this whisky embodies the sea breeze in such a way that it takes you straight to the shore. It incorporates the scent of old leather pouches hinting of dried prunes, apricots, and pears. This is then followed by faint notes of beachside bonfire smoke drifting over lava rocks. It also brings to mind oyster liqueur and little pools filled with sea life and surrounding flora.
Palate: The palate is luxurious with a deep sense of sweet and spiced pear and plum next to a soft note of woody oak spice and red peppercorn before salted leather and bivalves arrive with a note of smoked tinned oysters and sardines over a soft brioche with a light smear of whipped butter.
Finish: The pears, plums, and apricots get dry and smoked with a sweet/spicy vibe as the finish mellows towards soft oak soaked in seawater, piles of old clam nailed on driftwood fence, and a whisper of minty chewing tobacco.
Bottom Line:
This is a masterpiece. It’s the sort of whisky that opens your senses up to things long forgotten whilst deeply offering comfort.
Kentucky Distillery Launches Non-Bourbon Whiskey to Their Product Lineup
One of Kentucky’s largest distillers is adding a new whiskey to its lineup.
Bulleit, which has Kentucky distilleries in Shelbyville and Lebanon, is releasing Bulleit American Single Malt. The new whiskey is distilled with a mash bill of 100% malted barley and aged in charred new American white oak barrels, according to a news release from Bulleit.
The latest on food, dining and bourbon delivered right to your inbox for free. See what’s happening in the world of bourbon, including buying, tasting tips and more on Tuesday. Stick around for the biggest restaurant news in Central Kentucky on Thursday. Sign up here.
It is 90 proof and, according to the tasting notes, has a nose of sweet vanilla and toasted oak. On the palate, it’s light and fruity with hints of red fruit and pear, and a finish of oaky caramel and subtle cocoa notes.
Bulleit American Single Malt is now available in stores throughout the country as well as at the Bulleit visitor center in Shelbyville. The suggested retail price is $59.99. For more details on where to purchase, visit bulleit.com/where-to-buy
The new malt whiskey comes in a flattened oval bottle similar to the iconic Bulleit bourbon bottle, made this time, however, out of green recycled glass.
Jesse Damashek, the Senior Vice President of Whiskies & Liqueurs at Diageo, shares in a statement, “Bulleit American Single Malt introduces Bulleit’s continuous innovation and sustainability commitment into this new exciting category that is bound to cause ripples in the whiskey industry for the foreseeable future. With a 100% malted barley mash bill, and a noticeable green bottle resulting from recycled post-consumer glass use, this exemplary whiskey represents numerous new approaches for the brand. I am convinced we have managed to create a unique American Single Malt that will be treasured and adored by whiskey fanatics everywhere.”
It’s worth noting that the malt whiskey, despite not qualifying as a Scotch because it is not Scottish-made, forms the most recent part of Bulleit Frontier Whiskey’s inventive experimentation with flavor, maturity, and overall finish, as per the press release.
Bulleit, which is owned by global spirits giant Diageo, opted for a recycled glass bottle as part of the company’s commitment to sustainability. This initiative includes their first carbon-neutral distillery in Lebanon which uses 100% renewable energy.
What’s the economic impact of bourbon in Kentucky? Report says major growth still to come
More Double Double Oaked: Kentucky distillery offers the chance to buy a rare bourbon bundle







