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The Remarkable Rise in Quality of China’s Wine

This story is from an installment of The Oeno Files, our weekly insider newsletter to the world of fine wine. Sign up here.

In the pursuit of learning as much as we can about wine so we can share that knowledge with others, we have been to every country in the world that produces it in any significant quantity. People are often surprised to discover that we have visited multiple wine regions and too many wineries to count in China, and their response to finding this out is often along the lines of, “Well the wine’s not very good, is it?” Considering China’s size (it has roughly the same land mass as the United States), varied climates, and the fact that wine has been made there for around 2,000 years, it’s hard to believe that anyone would just dismiss the entire country, but here we are.

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One needs to simply look at the external investment in Chinese wine projects to realize the seriousness of the $42 billion annual winemaking business there. Nearly 500 wineries are present across 12 key regions. Significant players like Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy, Domaine Baron de Rothschild (D.B.R.) Lafite, and Penfolds’ involvement makes even the fiercest critic take note. This does not imply that wineries without international involvement are not producing high-quality wine, but most of those at the top-tier predominantly sell within their domestic market and refrain from global distribution.

The LVMH project, Ao Yun, meaning “flying above the clouds,” was the first to hit the market with the release of the 2013 vintage. This boutique winery, nestled high in the Himalayas within the Diqing Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, houses 68 acres of vineyards situated in bends of the Mekong River at altitudes ranging from 7,200 to 8,500 feet above sea level. Bordeaux native and Estate director and winemaker, Maxence Dulou, segmented the vineyards into 314 blocks and 900 sub-blocks based on variances in soil, terroir, drainage, and sunlight exposure. Each plot is hand-tended, vinified separately, then blended to produce a rich wine resembling a Bordeaux-style blend, with a hint of Syrah. Dulou’s precision, both in the vineyard and during blending, results in a pleasant wine that regularly receives high critical acclaim. He characterizes his wine as having a balance of “freshness and ripeness in the nose and acidity and density in the mouth”, with very mature tannins providing a soft, gentle texture. The United States makes up a minor market for Ao Yun, receiving only 10 percent of exports, but the wine is relatively accessible. Half of it is sold in China, with another 20 percent distributed throughout Asia.

Far to the northeast and just slightly higher than sea level, D.B.R. Lafite established its terraced vineyards in Shandong Province in 2008. Known in China simply as the Chinese Lafite, the first vintage of Long Dai is the 2017, released in 2019. As shared by Technical Director Olivier Tregoat, the priority of the Domaine de Long Dai is to know the terroir and develop expertise in soils and grape types, led by a solid local team, to find the best expression of the Shandong terroir and create a unique Chinese wine with a French touch. Long Dai isn’t your traditional Bordeaux blend; it’s crafted with 50 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 percent Cabernet Franc and 25 percent Marselan, a cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon that is widely cultivated in China. Marselan adds hints of baking spice and floral notes to the wine’s dark-berry flavors and smooth tannins. It is predominantly sold in mainland China with strong distribution among wine collectors and wine enthusiasts, but it’s still possible to locate Long Dai online at several trustworthy retailers at costs close to its suggested retail price of $699.

The other venture we noticed is Penfolds, which recently released its Penfolds 2021 Chinese Winemaking Trial 521 Cabernet Sauvignon Marselan, or for short, Penfolds CWT 521. The numbers 5-2-1 represent five regions where the grapes are sourced and the vintage year of the wine. Matt Woo, Penfolds’ winemaker, expresses that CWT represents an expression of Penfolds house style through a Chinese lens, speaking both to Penfolds varietal characters and reflecting the regions from which it originated.

Unless you’re planning a trip to China or Australia, finding a bottle of Penfolds CWT 51 might be a challenge. As for other Chinese wines we’ve covered, they are enjoyable now and will continue to age nicely at home for at least another decade. Despite this, they have not attained the status of investment wine. As Nick Pegna, Sotheby’s global head of wine and spirits shared, there’s been a limited presence of top Chinese wineries in the auction salesroom. This is likely because these wineries are relatively new, and there’s not yet a substantial increase in values. While there is a following for the new releases of Long Dai and especially for Ao Yun, and their quality level is excellent, they have not reached the point of being considered collectibles. This suits us just fine as we believe wine is meant to be savored, not stored away for profit.

Desire more exclusive wine content delivered to your inbox every Wednesday? Subscribe to our wine newsletter, The Oeno Files, today!

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December 4, 2023 Wine

The Rolling Stones’ New Signature Rum ‘Crossfire Hurricane’ to be Bottled by New Port Richey Distillery

NEW PORT RICHEY, Fla. – Turning out distinctive bottles of spirits is nothing new for Spencer Wolf and his team at The Point Distillery in New Port Richey. But, there’s some special rum waiting in the warehouse – 28,000 gallons for The Rolling Stones.

Within days, they’ll start bottling the new signature rum from the Stones called “Crossfire Hurricane.” The term refers to the lyrical place where Mick Jagger was born in the iconic song Jumpin’ Jack Flash.

This distillery was selected among many competitors anxious to bottle the rum. It became the drink of choice for the band when they spent time in the Caribbean, honing their music in their early days together.

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Wolf stated that, in contrast to other celebrities who simply license their names, the Stones possess ownership of the rum brand and have been deeply involved in the development of both the rum and its unique bottle.

“Mick Jagger has shown immense attention to even the minutest of details,” Wolf expressed. “They desired a product that was representative of them.”

The evidence is clear.

“Inspect the back label, their signatures are present,” Wolf noted. “In this case, the tongue icon is arguably one of the most recognizable logos globally.”

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To coin some titles from the Stones, Wild Horses couldn’t drag Wolf away from the satisfaction he and his team feel.

“Oh, we were beyond ecstatic. This is the most famous iconic rock band in the world,” he said.

Wolf said making the intricate bottle for a local brand of bourbon, Von Payne, helped convince the Stones to bring it to Pasco County.

“And I think it was said ‘if you can do that bottle you can do ours,’” Wolf said.

Wolf, who is originally from Great Britain, said his accent may have played a small part in it.

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The Rolling Stones are scheduled to perform in Orlando on June 3. What are the chances they might come to New Port Richey to see their rum being bottled?

As much as I’d love to divulge, discretion prevents me from doing so. However, would it astonish me if they show to witness their rum being produced? No,” he beamed.

Wolf anticipates the commencement of rum bottling in the early days of December, paving its way onto store shelves about the start of the forthcoming year. He predicts a retail price hovering around $37 for each bottle.

“It’s my perception that the Stones wished for it to be economically feasible for a substantial number of their countless fans,” he expressed.

December 4, 2023 liquor-articles

Olde Mecklenburg Brewery Offers Free Beer at Steve’s Coats for Kids Event

Meteorologists and other members of the Channel 9 family celebrated 20 years of Steve’s Coats for Kids at the Olde Mecklenburg Brewery on Sunday.

“It’s super important to donate coats, because we have so many people in the community who might not have one, and the weather, even though it’s warm today it might not be tomorrow, so it’s important that we contribute to the cause,” event attendee and donator, Paige Layne said.

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New and gently used coats were collected from 12 p.m. to 3 p.m. at the Brewery’s annual Christmas market.

Everyone who donated a coat received a complimentary beer.

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December 4, 2023 beer-articles

Revealed: The Best Irish Whiskeys of 2023, According to the Irish Whiskey Association

Representatives of Connacht Irish Whiskey Distillery accepting the award for Best Irish Whiskey of the Year

The Irish Whiskey Association convened at the Jameson Bow Street Distillery in Dublin on November 29 to reveal the 2023 Irish Whiskey Awards champions. With the presence of over 40 distilleries, Ireland has cemented its position in the global whiskey industry in the past ten years and is currently leading the fastest-growing whiskey category globally.

The event kicked off with a distillery tour and a drinks reception, courtesy of Irish Distillers at the Jameson Distillery, Bow Street in Dublin. Patrick Rigney, the founder of The Shed Distillery and the Master of Ceremonies and keynote speaker, presented the award. The awards, now in their 10th year, comprise 20 categories across Irish whiskeys and spirits and are recognized as the ultimate evaluation of Irish whiskey globally.

The determination of this year’s awardees happened earlier in August when the organizer, Celtic Whiskey of Celtic Whiskey Shop Dawson Street, organized several blind tastings at Dublin’s Flowing Tide pub on Abbey Street. Extra tastings were scheduled across Ireland with members of various whiskey societies including Irish Whiskey Society — Dublin and Dingle, Cork Whiskey Society, Waterford Whiskey Society, Kilkenny Whiskey Guild, Ennis Whiskey Club, 1875 Whiskey Club, Carlow Whiskey Society, Belfast Whiskey Club, and the Aviator’s Whiskey Society, along with a select group of international whiskey judges.

Connacht Irish Whiskey Distillery, Exclusive Cask Strength, Single Malt Irish Whiskey, 47% ABV, 750 ml.

The coveted Best Irish Whiskey of the Year prize was awarded to Connacht Irish Whiskey Distillery, Exclusive Cask Strength, Single Malt Irish Whiskey, 47% ABV, 750 ml.

Connaacht’s single malt whiskey is a triple-distilled whiskey produced at Connacht’s distillery in Ballina, County Mayo, on northwest Ireland’s rugged Atlantic coast. The distillery is situated where the River Moy meets the Atlantic Ocean on a stretch of Ireland’s wild and picturesque coast.

The distillery was founded by Master Distiller Robert Cassell in 2016, along with a team of Irish whiskey entrepreneurs who saw the potential of northwest Ireland’s unique climate to produce an iconic Irish whiskey. The region is characterized by dramatic swings in atmospheric pressure, producing a flavorful, heavily extracted whiskey. The use of custom-designed stills further enhances the unique character of the distillery’s whiskey.

Irish Whiskey Categories

Single Pot Still 11 and Under

Winner: Drumshanbo Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey Pinot Noir Cask

Gold: Jameson Single Pot Still

Gold: Powers Three Swallows

Single Pot Still 12 Years and Over

Winner: Red Spot 15 Year Old

Gold: Yellow Spot 12 Year Old

Gold: Redbreast 15 Year Old

Single Malt 11 Years and Younger

Winner: Jack Ryan Whiskey 5-Year-Old Oloroso Finish Cask Strength

Gold: Dunville’s 10 Year Old Pedro Ximenez Cask

Gold: The Irishman Legacy

Single Malt 12 – 15 Year Old

Winner: Tullamore DEW 14 Year Old

Gold: Knappogue Castle 12 Year Old

Gold: The Irishman 12 Year Old

Single Malt 16 Years & Older

Winner: The Irishman 17 Year Old

Gold: Dunville’s 21-Year-Old Palo Cortado Cask

Gold: McConnell’s Irish Whisky 20 Year Old Port Finish Single Cask

Blended No Age Statement

Winner: Writers’ Tears Double Oak

Gold: Jameson Crested

Gold: Powers Gold Label

Blended Age Statement

Winner: McConnell’s Irish Whisky Sherry Cask (5 years)

Gold: The Dead Rabbit Irish Whiskey

Gold: Clan Colla 13 Year Old

Blended Limited Release

Winner: Writers’ Tears Japanese Cask Finish

Gold: Dunville’s 1808 “Casked in Bond” Dick Mack’s Honey & Hemp IPA Cask, Cask No. 1451

Gold: Writer’s Tears Inniskillin Ice Wine

Peated Irish Whiskey

Winner: Micil Single Cask Release with Garavan’s Bar

Gold: Killowen Barántúil Single Cask KD202

Gold: Celtic Cask 47 Daichead a Seacht 2016 Peated Oloroso

Single Cask 11 Years & Younger

Winner: Celtic Cask 44 Daichead a Ceathair 2014 PX Cask Finish

Gold: Dunville’s PX 11 Year Old Single Malt Cask Strength

Gold: Dunville’s 11 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask Strength

Single Cask 12 Years & Older

Winner: Dunville’s 22 Year Old Palo Cortado Cask No. 1204

Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old Oloroso Cask Strength Cask No. 990 56.2% ABV

Gold: Dunville’s 21 Year Old PX Sherry Cask Finish – James J. Fox Single Cask

Cask Strength

Winner: Connacht Distillery Exclusive Cask Strength

Gold: Redbreast 12 Year Old Cask Strength

Gold: Dunville’s 20 Year Old PX Cask Strength, Cask 1644, 55% ABV

Single Grain

Winner: The Bridge – Galey Bay

Gold: The Bridge – Inny Bay

Gold: Method and Madness Single Grain

New Irish Whiskey

Winner: Pearse Genesis Irish Whiskey

Gold: Fercullen Single Malt

Gold: Fercullen Estate Series ‘The Gates’

Also recognized in other spirit categories were:

Whiskey Liqueur

Winner: The Dubliner Honey

Gold: The Whistler Honey Liqueur

Gold: Tullamore DEW Honey

Cream Liqueur

Winner: St Patrick’s Cappucino Irish Cream

Gold: Two Stacks Double Irish Cream Liqueur

Gold: Coole Swan Irish Cream Liqueur

Poitin

Winner: Straw Boys Poitín

Gold: Micil Heritage Poitín

Gold: Bán Cask Aged Poitín

Vodka

Winner: Lough Ree 99 Vanilla Vodka

Gold: Míl Vodka

Gold: Istil Vanilla Vodka

Gin

Winner: Garnish Island Gin

Gold: Micil Gin

Gold: Glendalough Wild Botanical Gin

Best Other Irish Spirit

Winner: Stillgarden Café O’Maro

Gold: Stillgarden Berrissimo

Gold: Rebel City Distillery Series – Absinthe

In regards to the awards, the organizer and founder, Ally Alpine who happens to be the Managing Director of Celtic Whiskey Shop, and the anchor behind Whiskey Live Dublin, shared the following statement:

We anticipate a grand celebration by co-hosting this year’s awards at the Jameson Bow Street Distillery. The IWA’s radiate an air of festivity as we acknowledge the excellence and innovation of the Irish Whiskey and Spirits domain. Our additional aim is to gather funds for our impressive charity associate, Mary’s Meals.

There are more than 64 million primary school-age children out of school around the world. In order to survive, they have to work or beg. Even if they do make it into the classroom, hunger affects their ability to learn. The money raised through the Irish Whiskey Awards each year ensures that 629 children are fed for a whole school year at the Kapatamoyo school in Zambia.

The event’s charity partner, Mary’s Meals (www.marysmeals.ie), feeds two million children every day whilst ensuring they attend school.

Drinks Industry Ireland was the event’s media partner, as they have been for many years, and key sponsors include the Irish Whiskey Association and Label Tech Tuath Irish Whiskey Glass.

Most of the award winners are available in the United States. They can also be ordered directly from the Celtic Whiskey Shop in Dublin.

December 3, 2023 liquor-articles

Responding to Your Queries: A Comprehensive Guide to Christmas Wines

There’s a certain amount of (self-imposed) pressure to get everything just-so as friends and family gather over the festive period. Whether you’re throwing a party, hosting the main event, or you’ve been invited to share in someone else’s celebrations, you want to make sure the drinks live up to expectations. Which wine should I pour with Christmas pud? What can I offer the designated driver? Do I need to let my red breathe before I serve it and what does that even mean? How can I stop my brother-in-law squirrelling away my expensive bottle and serving me plonk?

We’ve put your thorny wine questions to our panel of experts: Telegraph columnists Susy Atkins and Victoria Moore; and award-winning commentator and trained sommelier Hamish Anderson. They’ve tackled your drink-based conundrums so you can spend more time doing what really matters this Christmas. Like settling a decades-old score with your siblings. Bottoms up.

– VB

Victoria says: I’m happy to say that both of you are ‘right’. As you so succinctly say with the use of those inverted commas, there isn’t a right and a wrong in wine but there are norms and some wines rub along better with certain foods than others. As with roast chicken, you can very happily go white or red with turkey.

Undoubtedly, wine pairings largely rely on the accompanying dishes, which results in your emphasis on fruity stuffing, cranberry sauce, pigs in blankets and so forth, pushing the balance towards a hearty wine. There are both red and white choices to cater to this.

When considering whites, you might opt for a path through Burgundy. This would definitely complement those who pour creamy, nutmeg-infused bread sauce on their meals. White Rhône and Rhône-style (consider South Africa) blends comprising of marsanne, roussanne, viognier, white grenache and clairette are also adept at handling the Christmas dinner repertoire.

Moving on to reds, grenache-based blends will harmonise seamlessly with all the fruit and pork elements; Beaujolais or a young pinot noir will match the tangy brightness of cranberries; and a robust Bordeaux will keep everyone content.

Of course, it’s not merely about the pairings. The key is to choose a wine that sets the right ambiance. And one that you genuinely enjoy.

<p><em>– TG</em></p>

<p><strong>Hamish says</strong>: The practice of opening a wine and leaving it to breathe in the bottle does very little, as such a small amount of liquid is in contact with air. To substantially change the flavour quickly, you need to decant. For young wines, which are unlikely to have any sediment, this is as simple as pouring them into a clean vessel wide enough to expose a reasonable surface area to air – a decanter looks the part, but a glass jug works just as well. Older wines require a steady hand, and a light source to highlight sediment as you carefully decant at 45 degrees.</p>

<p>How long you leave them before serving varies from bottle to bottle. If you don’t know a wine, open it a couple of hours beforehand and give it a taste. If it is mute, one-dimensional, or overly tannic then a few hours properly exposed to air will open up the flavours and help it to soften. As a rough guide, many full-bodied, young wines (including some whites) benefit from a good stint exposed to air – three hours is usually my starting point. Richer styles or grape varieties need longer, while lighter styles require less time or none at all. So, while I might leave a young Australian Cabernet on the side for three or four hours to develop, I rarely decant Pinot Noir.</p>

<p><em>– DA</em></p>

Susy states: Previously, drivers and individuals who don’t consume alcohol had limited drink choices at special events. They could only choose between orange juice, elderflower pressé, or mocktails. These options are often sweet, which is not particularly attractive during extended periods of eating and drinking. Thankfully, nowadays there are numerous sophisticated non-alcoholic beverages available, including excellent no-alcohol beers and non-alcoholic aperitifs and spirits. However, these are generally quite expensive.

When it comes to wines, while I haven’t discovered a non-alcoholic red that I would exchange for a quality juice, I’ve found the non-alcoholic whites have significantly improved. For instance, there is no-alcohol riesling, which preserves its juicy tang. Some of the best adult non-alcoholic beverages I’ve tasted recently are the new range of sparkling teas from the Copenhagen Tea Company. Keeps in mind that some contain low, not zero, alcohol content. These were created in Denmark by a renowned sommelier, and they exhibit exceptional balance and richness. Expect dry varieties with delicate hints of spice, floral elements, and mild tannins. They should be chilled and served similarly to sparkling wine.

– JL

Victoria articulates: This appears to be two questions in one. The first part is how to stop your brother-in-law from being extraordinarily irritating. The truth is, you cannot. However, you can manage the problematic aspects that trigger you. So, this year don’t bring any wine. Instead, choose something else and explicitly specify that it’s a present for the hosts and it’s not for the event’s consumption.

If there is a silent contract that requires you to bring wine, then take it. However, don’t expect to consume it. Make sure it’s something you would be pleased to be offered if it is uncorked, and spend the amount of money that you think is an acceptable contribution to the day.

Now, let’s move on to the second question: how can you drink something of semi-decent quality on Christmas Day? Although I doubt you’re going to have a high-quality wine, you still have other options. You could take the hard alcohol path: ask for a Gamp;T or a vodka-martini. Propose to make it yourself because you’re picky. Carry the ingredients with you, don’t just hand them over, but feel free to offer to create a cocktail for others. Finally, anticipate the excellent glass of wine you’ll consume at home on Boxing Day.

— CD

Victoria comments: As you most likely know, châteauneuf-du-pape is a denomination in the southern rhône. Red châteauneuf is very expressive, full in taste and high in alcohol content. Moreover, it is composed of a mixture. Grenache, supplemented with mourvèdre and syrah, is the leading variety among the eighteen allowed in red châteauneuf.

You don’t need to look too far away to discover something similar; there are several other names in the southern Rhône region that produce red wines with similar notes of sweetly fragrant red berries and garrigue herbs. You might want to sample from gigondas, cairanne, vinsobres or rasteau. By all means, give a côtes du rhône a try. Or perhaps a lirac, which hails from similar soil composition on the opposite side of Rhône river, albeit its often more laden with dark fruits compared to châteauneuf.

But don’t feel restricted to Rhône. Explore a GSM (grenache-syrah-mourvèdre) from other regions. There are very impressive versions found in the Languedoc, or you could cast your net towards South Africa or Australia. These wines complement Christmas dinner exceptionally well as they carry enough weight for all the fruit-filled, porcine flavors present in the stuffings and sauces.

– DA

Susy speaks: There are a good number of opportunities throughout the festive season that warrant a glass of port. Ruby ports, generally known for their relaxed nature, brimming with juicy red cherries and a hint of pepper, are a perfect pairing with mince pies and Christmas cake, or even stollen or gingerbread. These are the types of port wines you’d want to splash into your mulled wine or add to a beef or venison casserole for that extra depth of flavor.

Late bottled vintage (LBVs) and vintage ports are my preferred choices for enjoying alongside a festive cheese board, perfect for festive occasions like Christmas Eve or Boxing Day. To truly savor the ports, decant them to improve their aroma and remove any sediment. Dress up your cheese board with an assortment of crackers, fresh and dried fruits, and certainly, include the classic Stilton cheese.

However, if I were to single out my top-most pairing, it would undoubtedly be tawny port with chocolate. It has been a custom in our household to chill a bottle of this delightful port over Christmas, serving it with a box of exquisite dark chocolates. Not only does it pair well with chocolate desserts, but it also enhances the flavors of nutty and toffee puddings. The unique blend of mellow, creamy, caramel, and orange peel undertones in a tawny port goes famously well with grand desserts like profiteroles.

– WF

Hamish points out: The mere act of uncorking a bottle of wine and pouring a glass introduces oxygen into the liquid, initiating its degradation. The aroma and flavor of a wine left uncorked for too long tend to decay, resulting in a less fruity and vibrant taste — it’s not necessarily undrinkable, but nowhere near as favorful. If left for even longer, one can detect oxidative notes: with whites you’ll get a nutty flavor akin to some sherries, whereas in reds, the fresh fruit tones transform into a dried character, resembling prunes or raisins.

While there are plenty of preservation systems out there, they cannot undo what has already happened – at best they buy you an extra day or two by stopping more contact with air. If you have a vacuum pump, a device that sucks air out of an open bottle via a plastic stopper, use it. Failing that, close the bottle with its original seal.

If you have had a party and are left with multiple open bottles of the same wine, decant them into each other so you end up with full bottles, reducing the amount of wine in contact with air. Aim to use them up within a couple of days. Light-bodied or older wines don’t last as long as young or full-bodied ones so drink those first. Port will keep in good condition for around five days, since the extra sugar and alcohol act as preservatives.

It is worth investing in inexpensive sparkling wine stoppers to use on open bottles of fizz. They won’t stop the wine oxidising but will help to maintain bubbles for a few days, longer if the bottle is nearly full. A teaspoon inserted into the neck of an open bottle, silver or not, does nothing. Two systems I would recommend are Coravin (from £129.99), which ingeniously extracts wine from a bottle without letting air in and will preserve the contents for weeks, months or even years. The other is Eto (from £129), an elegant decanter that does a fine job of stopping further contact with air and should help your wine to last for about a week; use it as soon as you open a bottle for best effect.

– JS

Susy says: It’s a tall order for one wine to be the perfect match for three desserts which are so very different in flavours and textures. The clementine trifle would, ideally, be paired with a tangy, golden dessert wine such as Bordeaux’s sauternes, while the Christmas pudding and Yule log can take a richer, more sticky wine like tawny port, Australian liqueur muscat or Hungary’s sublime tokaji.

But you are looking for a more versatile sweet wine and I’ve got two styles to suggest. First, the vins doux naturels made from muscat in southern France, such as those from Rivesaltes or Beaumes-de-Venise. These are lightly fortified so although they taste fresh, they can have deliciously concentrated flavours of apricot and crystallised citrus fruit that match a range of sweet treats. Chill them lightly and pour 75 millilitres into white wine glasses.

My other suggestion is Sicily’s marsala, a lovely fortified wine made from local grapes and aged for up to ten years. It pairs well with with mince pies and Christmas pudding as well as chocolate desserts. It can take on a trifle too and I love it with a slice of fruit-studded panettone.

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December 3, 2023 Wine

Vodka Spotlight: Experience Canada with Beattie’s Farm-Made Vodkas

Welcome back to FTW’s Beverage of the Week series. In this space, our focus is mostly on beer reviews, yet we happily widen our scope to include any drink that is an excellent accompaniment to sports. Yes, even cookie dough whiskey.

Having an opinion on good vodka, I’ve discovered, can be challenging.

Bad vodka? Definitely. You can liken it to nail polish remover or what you used to clean your old Nintendo games. But for a novice like me who seldom drinks it outside of a cocktail, decent vodkas typically blend together. We have smooth…but then what’s next?

Luckily, Beattie’s potato vodkas have arrived to broaden my perspective, whether for better or worse. This distillery in Alliston, Ontario, provides a limited selection of tuber-based spirits with straightforward flavors and packaging. Each bottle faithfully replicates its farm origin, and I am curious to give it a try, despite my limited exposure.

I’ve indulged in a fair amount of Canadian beverages over the years. Moosehead is potentially my top choice for mass-produced lagers. Canadian whisky, with its unique blend of smoothness and affordability, was my go-to during college and remains a consistent favorite.

Nevertheless, I hadn’t experienced Canadian vodka until recently. Prior to discovering Beattie’s, Canadian vodka hadn’t really been on my radar. A bit of digging reveals there are several established distilleries in Canada, ranging from charming operations to those opting for loud, attention-demanding techniques such as bottling their spirits inside a hockey stick.

Beattie’s positions itself as a frontrunner in this arena. So, how does it compare to this claim? I’ll be testing Beattie’s in a variety of cocktails to gauge its performance. To start, I’ll pair it with a craft mixer I’ve been eager to try, Q Mixer’s ginger ale.

In my mix of this traditional golf cocktail, I might have been a bit heavy-handed — it ended up being around 40 percent vodka, 40 percent ginger ale, and 20 percent grape juice. However, this should allow me to better assess how well Beattie’s blends with other ingredients and how it fares on its own.

Indeed, the vodka flavor is distinct and at the forefront. It has a robust presence, but it doesn’t feel harsh. Instead, it delivers a transparent, almost floral, peppery citrus taste. Unquestionably it’s vodka, but more specifically, it’s high-quality vodka. It doesn’t make you choke or compel you to finish in a dreadful single gulp.

Despite not being a habitual vodka sipper nor much of a martini enthusiast, I do have considerable experience with budget potato vodkas such as Kamchatka, Skyy, and Luksusowa. This vodka undoubtedly swings towards the higher end of that spectrum, surpassing the likes of Smirnoff due to its smooth, soothing warmth as opposed to a sharp, direct sting.

Having had enough sips to prepare for a proper cocktail mix, it’s time to add more mixer. The Q ginger ale has a spiciness that eventually gives way to a delicate sweetness. It may not quite hit Vernor’s intensity of authentic ginger taste, but it comes very close. For me, this is a plus. The flavors it harbors amid the fizzy bubbles in its 7.5-ounce can are abundant. Prepare yourself; I’ll be using it in numerous other cocktails shortly.

When mixed correctly, this combination can be deceptive. The drink, though containing two shots of alcohol in a 12-ounce volume, doesn’t taste as potent. So, in a sense, Beattie’s has proven itself foolproof for those who struggle with measuring cup sizes and volumes while mixing.

Uncorking the bottle triggers an outburst of aromatic strawberry fragrances. This is distinctly more than a subtle whiff of summer fruits or a fruit-at-the-bottom yogurt experience. The flavor intensity suggests that this could be enjoyed neat over ice, misleadingly mimicking a cocktail.

An exploratory sip corroborates this. This is akin to a sweet martini in itself and serves as a smooth drink when cooled. Let’s observe how it pairs with some tonic water and a dash of lime.

Amazingly, the result is just about flawless. Fruity without being overly saccharine with just the right amount of tartness and effervescence to create a crisp finish. The strawberry is far from the synthetic candy flavor and more akin to the residual flavor of freshly picked strawberries from a personal selection.

Indeed, tonic proves to be an exceptional means for a light, highly consumable mixed drink. Flavored vodka concoctions are a far cry from my preferred whiskey on the rocks arrangement, but the excellent taste of this is undeniable.

I must confess, I was at a loss with sweet potato vodka at first. While I’m sure there’s a handful of exceptional cocktail recipes that would benefit from it, I believe the best way to appreciate this distinct spirit is by savoring it neat before mixing it unknowingly into something like… cream soda? The thought itself is bemusing.

The immediate flavor of sweet potato comes off somewhat vanilla-esque, before the familiar reminder of Thanksgiving pie emerges. There’s a slight burn from the 60 proof alcohol within, yet each sip is surprisingly creamy. It’s, admittedly, a bit unsettling.

The intriguing creaminess hints at a uniquely appealing martini. It’s yet another testament to the commitment of Beattie’s to achieving authentic taste in their flavored vodkas.

It’s especially fitting for the summer months. Beattie’s vodka is bound to redefine hot weather cocktails.

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December 3, 2023 liquor-articles

New Port Richey Distillery Set to Bottle The Rolling Stones’ Signature Rum ‘Crossfire Hurricane’

NEW PORT RICHEY, Fla. – Turning out distinctive bottles of spirits is nothing new for Spencer Wolf and his team at The Point Distillery in New Port Richey. But, there’s some special rum waiting in the warehouse – 28,000 gallons for The Rolling Stones.

Within days, they’ll start bottling the new signature rum from the Stones called “Crossfire Hurricane.” The term refers to the lyrical place where Mick Jagger was born in the iconic song Jumpin’ Jack Flash.

This distillery was selected among many competitors anxious to bottle the rum. It became the drink of choice for the band when they spent time in the Caribbean, honing their music in their early days together.

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Unlike other famed personas who merely license their monikers, the Stones possess the ownership rights of the rum brand and have been significantly entangled in the conception of both the rum and its unique bottle, states Wolf.

“Mick Jagger has painstakingly devoted time to even the minutest details,” Wolf revealed. “They desired a product that mirrored their essence.”

The result is quite evident.

“If you scrutinize the back label, their signatures can be seen,” Wolf noted. “Also, the tongue stands out as one of the world’s most recognised logos.”

READ: World’s most sought-after scotch whisky sets auction record at $2.7M

To coin some titles from the Stones, Wild Horses couldn’t drag Wolf away from the satisfaction he and his team feel.

“Oh, we were beyond ecstatic. This is the most famous iconic rock band in the world,” he said.

Wolf said making the intricate bottle for a local brand of bourbon, Von Payne, helped convince the Stones to bring it to Pasco County.

“And I think it was said ‘if you can do that bottle you can do ours,’” Wolf said.

Wolf, who is originally from Great Britain, said his accent may have played a small part in it.

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The Rolling Stones are scheduled to perform in Orlando on June 3. What are the chances they might come to New Port Richey to see their rum being bottled?

He grinned and said, “While I must exercise discretion and not confirm their visit, wouldn’t it be unsurprising if they come to see their rum in the making? Absolutely.”

Wolf anticipates the rum bottling process to kick off sometime in early December, with the aim to hit the stores by the advent of the coming year. The proposed retail price per bottle is expected to be roughly $37.

“The Stones envisage the pricing to be within the affordability range of the extensive fan base they’ve amassed over the years,” he added.

December 3, 2023 liquor-articles

The Complexities Behind Choosing the Perfect Beer: More Complicated Than Initially Thought

Choosing a good beer in today’s market is more complex than most people realize, so if you’ve ever wondered why you feel overwhelmed while making a selection, you’re not alone. In an exclusive conversation with Tasting Table, Jeff Tyler, head brewer and co-owner of Spice Trade Brewery & Kitchen dives deep into this complex subject. “That is a really challenging question to answer,” Tyler says. “As beer has changed and styles have evolved, beer has gotten very complicated.” He elucidates that traditional markers such as clarity, which previously signified quality (except in styles like German hefeweizens), are not reliable anymore due to the rise of hazy IPAs. These IPAs are good beers, despite being opaque and hazy, hence the name.

Tyler also highlights the pitfalls of relating on online reviews. Platforms like Untappd or Rate Beer, although popular among enthusiasts, contain reviews that often echo personal tastes rather than objective quality and the technical merit of a beer, potentially misleading consumers. Tyler suggests a different approach: search for breweries that have won multiple awards. These accolades typically indicate that the brewery churns out high-quality beverages that are faithful to their style and tradition. Tyler states, “You can build up your knowledge of classic beer styles and gain a great understanding of what beer should taste like.” This will serve as your basis for knowing and appreciating what defines a good beer.

Read more: 15 Popular Hard Seltzer Brands, Ranked Worst To Best

Continuing our conversation, Jeff Tyler touches upon the other aspect of beer selection — the influence of innovation and personal taste. He stated that breweries experimenting with new ingredients or styles often find themselves conflicted with traditional judging standards. This is because competitions like the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) or the Great American Beer Festival (GABF) primarily evaluate beers based on established, strict comparisons to existing styles. “We [at Spice Trade Brewery & Kitchen] wrestle with being able to fit our beer into BJCP or GABF style guidelines, and I know other breweries crafting different types of beer hybrid beverages face the same issue,” says the head brewer.

However, he encourages drinkers to embrace these innovations and have confidence in their own preferences. “At the end of the day, taste is subjective,” he notes. “Trust your gut and what tastes good to you!” Tyler’s advice reminds us that while understanding traditional beer styles and guidelines is valuable, personal enjoyment should be the ultimate goal when it comes to brew selection. By prioritizing individual taste, beer lovers can confidently navigate the complex world of lagers, stouts, and everything in between while discovering beverages that genuinely resonate with their palate.

Read the original article on Tasting Table.

December 3, 2023 beer-articles

Mastering the Art of Whiskey Drinking: Tips from a Master Blender

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It’s OK to be intimidated by whiskey.

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It’s strong, there are endless expressions, and sometimes whiskey snobs can be, well, snobs. But, like any activity, learning to enjoy whiskey only requires a great guide, and we’re here to provide one: Billy Leighton, master blender emeritus at Irish Distillers. Leighton has been with the brand for the last 47 years, playing a crucial role in the production of iconic Irish whiskeys like Jameson and Redbreast.

“Some people are daunted if they’re not experienced Whiskey drinkers,” says Leighton. But, he says, it all comes down to what you’re trying and how you’re trying it. “Trying a premium whiskey like Redbreast, It’s not just a matter of, you know, getting the bottle and pouring the glass and drinking it. There’s a nice ritual.”

We had Leighton guide us through the whiskey-tasting ritual, and it’s something that might convert anyone into a whiskey enthusiast. His detailed guide can be found further down this page, and before you start, here are the necessary items you need.

Before you start tasting whiskey, there are two things you may need if you don’t have them already: glasses of high quality, and, obviously, a good whiskey suitable for beginners. Here is where you can find both of these items.

The first thing any aspiring whiskey enthusiast would need is a premium set of glasses. Whether it’s a tumbler or the Glencairn blend glass which is perfect for a 12-year-old Redbreast or something similar. Luckily, you can easily find good glassware online without much hassle. Major retailers like Amazon and offer a variety of high-quality glassware at all price points. Even small wine or port glasses can work temporarily, but a Glencairn is preferred.

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Most inexpensive whiskey will taste too harsh to an inexperienced palate. Sadly, that’s also the stuff that beginners often taste first. Instead, we suggest spending a bit more on a bottle that’s actually meant to be enjoyed neat (as opposed to in a cocktail or as a shot). Leighton’s Redbreast 12 is a great option, offering accessible complexity and a smooth sweetness that should be easy for just about anyone to sip. Some other options we’d suggest are Wild Turkey 101, Chivas Regal XV, Michter’s US1, and Glenmorangie Nectar.

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You have your whiskey and your glasses; now it’s time to dive in. Below is a step-by-step guide to enjoying a nice bottle of whiskey, all with tips from Billy Leighton.

Leighton’s first step to a great whiskey-tasting experience seems obvious, but many drinkers (even pros) forget it: “Look at the bottle, first of all, because there is an awful lot of information on the label,” he says. Note what kind of whiskey it is, what strength it is, and — if available — what kind of tasting notes to expect. “You should get yourself into the frame of mind of what it is you’re actually going to taste,” says Leighton. “I think that’s important and it’s part of the enjoyment process that people maybe forget about or just skip past.”

As expected from someone with 47 years in the business, Leighton is a whiskey romantic. And his next step in the tasting process — listening to the bottle’s sounds — is probably his most romantic suggestion, but we recommend heeding it. “Enjoy pulling the cork out of the bottle,” he says. “Again, it’s a simple thing and people just say, ‘Oh, well if we want to pour the whiskey, obviously we have to take the cork out,’ but there’s a certain pleasure to be had in listening to the cork, and the noise of the pop that you get whenever it comes out of the bottle.”

But the auditory experience doesn’t stop there: “And even the pour itself, you know, if it’s a full bottle, if it’s a new bottle, you’re gonna get that noise that goes with the pour from a bottle of whiskey. It’s a very satisfying noise.” Crucial to remember here is that, “There’s a lot of pleasure to be had before even actually tasting a whiskey,” he says.

“Before even nosing your whiskey, hold it up to the light,” says Leighton. “Get light behind the glass, and give it a swirl to see what the liquid is actually doing in the glass.” What you’re looking for here is color and more importantly “legs,” which refers to the way the whiskey runs down the sides of the glass after you swirl. This indicates the viscosity of the whiskey: If it’s thick and moves slowly down the glass, you can expect a creamy, full mouthfeel. If it’s thin and moves quickly, you’re looking at a more light, floral experience.

Next comes the (first half of) the main course: nosing the whiskey. “I’ve seen some people take a glass and stick their nose right in it. For me, that’s not how to do it,” says Leighton. Instead, he suggests slowly raising the glass to your nose and noting how the aromas change as it approaches. “You’re going to get the effect of the spirit first, and then the character starts to build up. With the Redbreast 12-year-old, for example, you’re going to get some of those dried fruit characters. And as you then get into the whiskey, that fruitiness becomes a bit more intense,” he says.

Another pro tip: Try tilting the glass horizontally and nosing the lower part of the rim. This way, you’ll get more sweetness and less alcohol, as the alcohol fumes will rise and slip out of the top of the glass.

While you’re enjoying the “evolving sensory experience” of nosing, as Leighton puts it, return to the aroma notes on the bottle. “There’s enjoyment to be had by dissecting the aromas that you’re getting and trying to fit them into the clues that you’ve already been given in the tasting notes.”

Now it’s time to taste the whiskey. Like almost all experts, Leighton suggests tasting all whiskey neat at first (no water, no ice), and then deciding if and how much water you might want to add to reduce the alcohol burn. And there’s no shame in adding water: Most pros add at least a couple drops of water to their glasses.

A thorough whiskey tasting consists of at least two sips, minimum, with the first prepping your palate and the second actually conveying the flavors. “Before we even try and decide where the flavors are coming from,” says Leighton, “just feel the texture of it in your mouth. What’s it doing to your mouth? Are you only feeling it on the point of your tongue? or the sides of your tongue? Or, like with Redbreast, is it a full mouth coating effect?” After feeling the whiskey in your mouth, try sucking some air past the sip (like you would when tasting wine) to create what’s called the “retro aroma.” Then, after you’ve taken another sip or two, try to allocate some flavors like you did with the aromas.

Throughout this process, however, Leighton says to remember that, “Anyone can enjoy a whiskey, but they don’t have to describe what it is they’re enjoying about their whiskey.” In other words, don’t get nervous about identifying flavors like a pro — just enjoy the liquid. If you can pick out and label some flavors, great. If not, don’t sweat it.

The final part of the whiskey-tasting process is to maintain focus on your palate. “Once you have swallowed the whiskey, you’re still going to have that taste experience going on in your mouth,” notes Leighton. “What’s happening in the finish? Do you still have that mouth-coating effect? Is there a sweetness that kind of lingers there? Does the whiskey dry out? I feel with Redbreast there is a sweetness that lingers and actually elongates the enjoyment of the finish.”

Then pour yourself another glass. And maybe another.

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December 2, 2023 liquor-articles

Unveiling the Vodka of the Week: Experience Canada with Beattie’s Farm-made Vodkas

Welcome back to FTW’s Beverage of the Week series. In this space, we typically detail and critique beers, although we’re quite happy to expand our range to any drink that goes well with sports. Indeed, even cookie dough whiskey.

Let me be straight, forming a viewpoint on good vodka tends to be tough.

Awful vodka, no problem. It can be likened to an acetone-like substance or perhaps, stuff you utilized to cleanse your old gaming console cartridges. However, superior vodkas have the tendency to become indistinct for an amateur like me who seldom consumes it outside of a cocktail context. So, we have smooth… and then?

Luckily, the Beattie’s potato vodkas are here to broaden my palate, whether better or worse. The Alliston, Ontario distillery produces a handful selection of root vegetable-based spirits bearing basic flavors and plain packaging. Each bottle reflects its rustic origin truthfully, and despite my lack of previous exposure, I’m quite excited to give it a go.

I’ve enjoyed Canadian beverages all my life. Out of all the large-scale lagers, the one produced by Moosehead is perhaps my favourite. The unique mix of affordability and smoothness makes Canadian whisky an ideal choice, both in my college days and now.

However, I hadn’t sampled Canadian vodka until recently. Prior to discovering Beattie’s, I wasn’t even sure if it existed. After a bit of research, I found that there is a variety of distillers in the region, from the charmingly modest to the attention-seeking ones even packing their drink in a hockey stick.

Regarding itself as an industry leader is Beattie’s. Does it live up to its own hype? I plan on testing Beattie’s by combining it with various cocktails and noting the results. I will kick things off with a craft mixer I have long wanted to try, the Q Mixer’s ginger ale.

I may have poured this traditional golf cocktail a tad too strong — the mixture consisted of roughly 40% vodka, 40% ginger ale, and 20% grape juice. Nonetheless, this should provide me a fair idea about how flawlessly Beattie’s blends with other components and holds itself when consumed straight.

Yes, the vodka taste is very apparent. It’s potent but not overwhelming, presenting a crisp, almost floral, spicy citrus essence. It’s unmistakably vodka, and it’s undeniably high-quality vodka. There’s nothing in it that could provoke an adverse reaction or make you feel the need to down it in one gulp.

Despite not being a vodka sipper or much of a martini drinker, I have had plenty of encounters with low-end potato spirits that extend from Kamchatka to Skyy to Luksusowa. This vodka definitely leans towards the higher end of that range, far surpassing brands like Smirnoff due to its smooth and gentle warmth – it doesn’t feel like a slap to the face.

Now that I’ve emptied enough of my glass to make room for the cocktail mix, let’s add some more mixer. The Q ginger ale is initially spicy, then gives way to a subdued sweetness. It doesn’t quite reach Vernor’s level of traditional ginger flavour, but it’s very close. As a bonus, it contains an abundance of rich flavours hidden amidst the carbonation of its 7.5-ounce can, which is exciting as I plan to use it for many more cocktails in the future.

When mixed appropriately, it can trick you; it’s a 12-ounce drink that contains the equivalent of two shots of alcohol but doesn’t taste like it. The Beattie’s vodka has demonstrated its foolproof nature, especially helpful if you tend to get sizes and measures mixed up while preparing drinks.

Uncapping the bottle, you’re hit with an overwhelming aroma of succulent strawberries. It’s clear this isn’t a fleeting hint, but a full-on fruit explosion that could be sipped over ice for a novel cocktail experience.

A small taste confirms this. It’s a delightfully sweet, martini-like concoction which, once chilled, could be a simple refreshment. Let’s add some tonic and a squeeze of lime and see how it fares.

Wow, it’s practically perfect. It’s fruity but not excessively sugary, with just the right combination of tartness and fizz to create a dry finish. The strawberry flavor isn’t a synthetic sugary confectionery but more of a subtle aftertaste of a fresh fruit handpicked from a cardboard crate.

The tonic successfully enhances the lightness, creating a digestible cocktail. Flavored vodka cocktails are a considerable departure from my preferred whiskey-on-the-rocks mix, but I must admit, it tastes absolutely delicious.

I’ll be forthright. I was uncertain about how to use sweet potato vodka. There are probably quite a few exciting cocktail recipes it would enhance, but I believe the best way to appreciate this unique spirit is to consume it straight, prior to mixing it with drinks like … cream soda? I honestly don’t know.

The sweet potato flavor seems mildly vanilla at first, before the Thanksgiving pie ambiance becomes clear. There’s a nuanced burn from the 60 proof alcohol involved, yet every mouthful has a nearly creamy quality. It’s somewhat surprisingly pleasant, frankly.

The creaminess adds a layer of mystery. This could make for a highly fascinating martini, and serves as more evidence of Beattie’s dedication to authenticity in their flavored vodka offerings.

Absolutely, particularly during the summer months. Beattie’s vodkas are bound to create some powerful seasonal cocktails.

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December 2, 2023 liquor-articles
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