Welcome to NEBCO American lager from New England Brewing Co. in Woodbridge, Conn.

Craft beer used to be all about the IPA in Connecticut and beyond, but drinking habits are changing and some craft beer fans are looking for more subtlety in their brews.

“I think that early on when small and local independent brewers needed big, bold, and loud beers to help differentiate themselves from the big brands in the earlier stages of craft beers growth, IPA’s really filled that need,” says Matt Westfall owner and brewer of Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire. “They’re fun, expressive, exciting and really stood out from the more traditional American beer landscape. Now that some small and independent brewers have gained more trust from consumers, we’re able to showcase some other flavor profiles to our customers.”

While IPAs remain the top seller at most craft breweries both in Connecticut and nationally, consumers are increasingly thirsty for lagers, a type of beer that is brewed in a different manner than an ale and includes the sub-genre of pilsners. At Counter Weight, the brewery’s flagship IPA remains the top seller overall by a wide margin, but its Workhorse Lager is gaining ground.

Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

“It is now our fastest-growing brand in 2023,” Westfall says. The increasing popularity of lagers is even more pronounced in the brewery’s taproom where Workhorse is the best-selling draft item and three of the top five sellers in the brewery are consistently various types of lagers. 

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Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

Workhorse Lager from Counter Weight Brewing Co. in Cheshire, Conn.

Of course, IPAs still dominate craft sales by a significant margin. At New England Brewing Co. in Woodbridge, 90 percent of production is dedicated to IPAs.

“But we have seen the craft lager category emerging and launched NEBCO Lager last summer to start participating in the category in a bigger way,” says Jamal Robinson, New England Brewing Co.’s director of sales and marketing.

So what’s sparking this renewed fascination with lagers? Several elements are at work.

“Palate fatigue is undeniably contributing to lagers’ growth,” conveys Robinson. ” A large number of customers experience a sensation of being overwhelmed by bold and solid IPAs. Furthermore, hazy, juicy IPAs are often too robust to provide refreshment. Those people are hunting for something that is more invigorating, feasible for sessioning (low in alcohol by volume (ABV)), and effortless to consume. Additionally, the cost is beginning to have a greater impact. Patrons are less inclined to spend on $20 four-packs or IPAs with a high ABV.”

Phil Markowski, who is a brewmaster at Two Roads Brewing Co. in Stratford, concurs.

“I believe some fans of craft beer are beginning to explore what else is available apart from IPAs,” suggests Markowski. “I am fond of IPAs as much as any beer lover, but occasionally, I crave a neat, crisp, and skillfully balanced lager for a change in pace.”

Welcome to NEBCO American lager from New England Brewing Co. in Woodbridge, Conn.

Two Roads is accommodating this need by distributing one lager year-round known as Cruise Control and several seasonal lagers.

Lagers are brewed using cold-fermenting yeasts that change beer components into alcohol moderately slower than the warm-fermenting yeast employed for ales. Due to this, lagers take around 6-8 weeks to brew — nearly double the time an average ale requires. This makes them pricier as they occupy fermentation space for extended durations. However, this leisurely brewing method is what makes them more desirable among brewers.

“The technical aspect of developing a good lager is truly fascinating,” says Barry Labendz, co-founder of Kent Falls Brewing Co. in Kent, providing a pilsner branded The Hollow all year-round beside numerous seasonal lagers in addition to other styles. “It’s all about the grade of ingredients and the process quality. In the hastened world of brewing, it gives immense pleasure to produce a beer that you leave to ferment for an extended duration.”

The allure of traditional brewing methods and styles has a large appeal to both brewers and enthusiasts. Westfall mentions, “Traditional lager styles carry a certain romance about them. Many iconic beers, ones that inspire a multitude of brewers, originate from centuries-old breweries. These often are situated in picturesque, historic buildings, operated by families with generation-spanning ownership, utilizing time-honored equipment and techniques to craft beers reminiscent of the ones their ancestors brewed for the same community, in some instances, for hundreds of years.”

He continues, “There is a unique significance in crafting a beer influenced by these historical methods, traditions, occasionally using identical ingredients, and striving to capture those subtle variances present in these nuanced styles.”