Federico De Cerchio, the fourth-generation head of a historic Abruzzo wine estate, has made substantial investments to enhance the standing of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. In our discussion, he elaborates on the challenges he faces in marketing Torre Zamba wines amidst changing global dynamics.

The Significance of Villamagna

Villamagna is not just the birthplace of Federico; it has a unique terroir shaped by its geography and winemaking expertise. The area has cultivated Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes since the 1950s and boasts a microclimate created by its proximity to the sea and mountains. The DOC designation received in 2011 highlights its status as the most prestigious area for quality wine production in Abruzzo, with strict regulations concerning vineyard practices and yields.

Challenges of Global Warming

The impact of climate change has been particularly evident since 2020, complicating vineyard management. In response, some vintners have returned to the traditional Abruzzo Pergola system, which offers protection from environmental stressors, demonstrating a resurgence of vintage techniques.

Shifting Demographics in Wine Consumption

Federico observes a generational shift in wine preferences, emphasizing the need for the wine industry to adapt marketing strategies to resonate with younger consumers. He believes that 2025 may be pivotal, urging producers to listen and respond to new consumer habits.

Importance of Media and Restaurant Coverage

For Federico, media exposure is critical as it allows restaurateurs to discover new wines, thus driving customer interest. He noted that while both media coverage and restaurant features are essential, reaching the right audience through media often comes first.

Export Trends and Market Changes

Famiglia De Cerchio exports over 95% of its production, with a notable shift towards Canada as a significant market due to U.S. tariffs. Although there has been a decrease in the U.S. market share, Federico believes it will regain prominence in the coming years.

Ethical Dilemmas Regarding Russian Sales

Although it’s illegal to sell luxury wines to Russia due to current regulations, Federico clarifies that wines priced below €300 can be legally sold. He grapples with the moral implications of continuing sales in light of the ongoing war in Ukraine, highlighting the personal relationships he maintains with Russian customers who are not involved in political issues. Federico feels a responsibility to support these friends during difficult times, even amid the broader geopolitical tensions.

Future plans for Expansion

With five estates, three located in Abruzzo, Federico aims to enhance the Torre Zambra estate and promote Villamagna DOC through tourism. Plans include expanding accommodations and opening a new restaurant showcasing traditional Abruzzo cuisine.

Through these efforts, the Famiglia De Cerchio continues to navigate the complexities of modern wine production while keeping roots in tradition and community ties.

We’re back on the Wine Walkabout bus, still buzzing from Portugal’s sun-drenched slopes. This time, we’re careening into Spain, where the air fills with the scents of dust, rebellion, and jamón that might make you weep. Before we dive in, let’s clarify: leave your wine snobbery at the door. In Spain, wine is a part of life, woven into the fabric of every meal since the Phoenicians first brought vines over 3,000 years ago.

Rioja — The Grand Dame with Attitude

Our first stop is Rioja, where Tempranillo reigns supreme, often blended with Garnacha, Graciano, or Mazuelo, and aged in American oak to perfection. Rioja presents a delightful blend of contradictions—a cooling Atlantic breeze here, a warm, fruity note there, each area contributing to its unique spirit.

• Crianza: Young and vibrant, like cherry candy with a peppery jab.
• Reserva: Aged with vanilla and leather complexity.
• Gran Reserva: A sage with cedar and tobacco notes that feel luxurious.

Choosing the best bottle is always debated, but the Marqués de Murrieta Ygay Gran Reserva Especial stands out ($100+). It’s a moody Tempranillo, lush and complex. As for a medium-priced option, Muga Crianza ($20+) serves up vanilla with hints of oak—a fiesta in a bottle.

Pair it with charred lamb chops and revel in the atmosphere at Logroño’s tapas bars, where you might even find yourself singing flamenco until dawn.

Ribera del Duero — The Bad Boy

Next up is Ribera del Duero, known for its powerful Tempranillo, or Tinto Fino. The high altitude creates an extreme growing environment, yielding bold reds with dark fruit and smoky undertones.

• Best Bottle: Vega Sicilia Único ($400+) epitomizes quality with its rich blackberry and espresso flavors.
• Medium-Priced Pick: Emilio Moro Finca Resalso ($18) offers juicy plum and spice without breaking the bank.

Perfect for a hearty ribeye, Ribera del Duero wines are unyielding and memorable.

Priorat — The Rebel’s Elixir

Traveling further south to Priorat in Catalonia, we find the intense reds crafted by medieval monks. These wines are bold, built from Garnacha and Cariñena, known for their abrasive texture derived from llicorella soil.

• Best Bottle: Álvaro Palacios L’Ermita ($150+), a cult classic.
• Medium-Priced Pick: Torres Salmos ($30) which captures Priorat’s essence.

A perfect pairing for roasted venison, this wine makes meals feel like grand occasions.

Rías Baixas — The Mermaid’s Kiss

Galicia’s Rías Baixas region offers Albariño, a white that’s as crisp as the ocean’s waves, born from vineyards that kiss the Atlantic.

• Best Bottle: Pazo de Señoráns Selección de Añada ($50+), filled with citrus and coastal notes.
• Medium-Priced Pick: Martín Códax Albariño ($15) provides a budget-friendly, zesty option.

Excellent with fresh shellfish, this wine invites you to savor the flavors of the sea.

Cava — The Fiesta Fuel

Finally, we head to Penedès, home of Cava. This sparkling wine, created from local varietals, thrives in cool underground cellars.

• Best Bottle: Recaredo Turó d’en Mota ($100+) delivers elegance akin to Champagne.
• Medium-Priced Pick: Bohigas Brut (~$16) offers lively bubbles perfect for any celebration.

Spain’s cuisine enhances the wine experience, with cheeses like nutty Manchego, funky Cabrales, and tangy Mahón taking center stage alongside their local wines.

Ultimately, Spain shouts in flavors—packed with enthusiasm and passion. To truly appreciate this country, dive in, indulge, and laugh out loud. Chef Molly’s soul-searing paella, paired with Martín Códax Albariño, is an unforgettable experience perfect for your next dinner gathering.

Spanish Paella with Shrimp, Roasted Connecticut Corn & Poblano Peppers

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 6 U-10 shrimp (shells reserved for stock if desired)
• 4 cups homemade shrimp/lobster stock (kept warm)
• 2 cups bomba rice
• 1 medium onion, finely diced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 poblano pepper, diced
• 2 golden tomatoes, grated (discard skin)
• 2 purple tomatoes, grated (discard skin)
• 2 cobs Connecticut sweet corn, roasted until lightly charred, kernels cut off (reserve some for garnish)
• 1 roasted red pepper (optional, for garnish)
• 1 tsp toasted saffron threads, bloomed in 2 tbsp warm stock
• 2 tsp smoked paprika (pimentón de la Vera)
• ½ tsp cayenne (optional)
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• Salt and freshly cracked black pepper
• Lemon wedges
• Fresh parsley, chopped

Method

1. Prepare the Base (Sofrito)
   Heat olive oil in a paella pan over medium heat. Add onion and poblano; cook until softened (8–10 minutes). Stir in garlic, smoked paprika, and cayenne; cook for another minute. Add grated tomatoes and simmer until thick (10–12 minutes).

2. Toast the Rice & Corn
   Stir in bomba rice and corn kernels. Toast for 2 minutes until rice absorbs flavors.

3. Build and Cook the Broth
   Add warm stock and saffron infusion, then season. Shake pan gently to level rice, and do not stir thereafter.

4. Add the Shrimp
   After 8 minutes at medium-high, lower heat and cook undisturbed for 15–18 minutes until most liquid is absorbed. Nestle shrimp atop and cook until opaque.

5. Develop the Socarrat
   Raise heat for 1–2 minutes until a faint crackle is heard, forming the crispy crust.

6. Rest & Garnish
   Cover with a towel and let rest for 5 minutes. Garnish before serving with fresh parsley and lemon.

Charred Corn–Saffron Aioli

Ingredients

• 1 ear Connecticut corn, charred, kernels cut off
• 1 egg yolk (room temperature)
• 1 small garlic clove, grated
• 1 tsp Dijon mustard
• ½ tsp salt
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• ½ cup neutral oil (like canola) + 2 tbsp olive oil
• Pinch toasted saffron threads, bloomed in 1 tbsp warm water

Method

1. Char the Corn: Roast or grill the corn until blackened; cut off kernels and mash.
2. Start the Aioli Base: Whisk together egg yolk, garlic, Dijon, salt, and lemon juice.
3. Emulsify: Slowly drizzle in oil while whisking until creamy.
4. Flavor Boost: Stir in saffron water and the corn puree.

This recipe brings the flavors of Spain to your home. Enjoy with chilled Albariño or a light Spanish rosé, and don’t forget to invite a few friends to join the fiesta!