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Exploring the Surprising Combination of Labour and Business- an Analogy to Crouch and Clancy or Vodka and Tomato Juice
Witnessing Labour being well-received by the City, accompanied by endorsements from austerity hero George Osborne, incites a peculiar sensation. It appears, I am not alone in this sentiment. Conversely to the past, when a substantial waiting period was necessary to evaluate a policy’s success, today’s dynamics allow immediate feedback.
Labour’s rapport with business demonstrates a perplexing union akin to vodka and tomato juice, or even socks with sandals. From my perspective, Labour, while not being anti-business per se, should advocate more for the workers. This includes fair wages, elimination of zero-hour contracts, and more. When Labour’s policies gain traction in the City, and are even applauded by George Osborne, it stirs unease. It seems this view is not unique to myself. The landscape has evolved to where reactions to policy implementations can be gauged much more rapidly than before.
Common sensibilities would suggest a 50-year span post the departure of a state head to adequately assess the legacy left behind. The present, however, allows much quicker evaluations – Liz Truss’ impact, for instance, took merely about 45 minutes to decipher. Savanta quickly released a poll post Labour’s Business Conference conclusion. Only 20% of the public supported uplifting the cap on bankers’ bonuses, with apathy being the overarching sentiment towards maintaining the corporation tax. Experts have voiced concerns around the perception that Labour is not undertaking any revolutionary moves for the economy.
Savanta’s Chris Hopkins observed, “Labour have succeeded in presenting their case as no threat to the British public. This could potentially propel them into governance. However, there is an apparent longing for a more audacious approach yet to be satisfied.” The real issue is the precarious balance of interests. When business interests feel threatened, there is often fierce opposition to change. For instance, the CBI has urged Labour to soften its stance on workers’ rights. Additionally, offshore energy representatives warn a windfall tax on profits could lead to significant job losses.
It’s vital for Mr Starmer to maintain his resolve. Engaging with business is a sound strategy, but allowing them to determine Labour’s governing approach is a completely different issue. We have experienced 14 years of manipulation by the wealthy elite. More immediately concerning for Mr Starmer is the uproar regarding the £28 billion green investment pledge U-turn. This move is not well-received, even though the party has managed it effectively. However, it fuels the quick-spreading Tory narrative about indecisiveness.
The most shocking Tory critique this week came during the Prime Minister’s Questions, with Mr Sunak making an insensitive joke about trans rights. An insider commented, “The situation was appalling, but the genuine shock illustrated by people’s reactions was the truly startling aspect.” This sentiment will be echoed in the future, further intensifying the conflict. In the words of Cormac McCarthy, what we have witnessed will be “nothing compared to what’s on the horizon”…
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Mastering the Admiral Schley High Ball: A Whiskey Cocktail Recipe from a Pioneering Black Bartender
“Is it any wonder that mankind stands open-mouthed before the bartender, considering the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic?”
— Tom Bullock, The Ideal Bartender
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It was 1913, and Theodore Roosevelt was in court.
Roosevelt was a strange and erratic man, and was often accused of being an alcoholic, despite his continual, fervid insistence that he’d never been drunk in his life. Fed up with this libel, he vowed to sue the next publication that claimed it, ultimately taking out his anger on a tiny Michigan newspaper called the Ishpeming Iron Ore. As a witness under cross examination, Roosevelt did acknowledge a fondness for Mint Juleps, and further admitted that he had tasted a Julep once at the St. Louis Country Club, but only drank “a part” of it.
The St. Louis Post Dispatch found the notion of anyone consuming “just a part” of a cocktail incredulous, particularly when the cocktail was prepared by Tom Bullock. “Impossible, who would only drink part of one of Tom’s?” they asked in their March 28, 1913, edtion. “It is unthinkable that a hearty man, let alone a stalwart Colonel, would stop at just a part of these beverages… it tests our belief beyond reason,” they further praised Bullock, who was regarded as an unmatched mixologist, irrespective of his race or standing.
Tom Bullock, a celebrated bartender for over two and a half decades, served in the premium establishments of Louisville and St. Louis. Reputed for being African American in an era of racial bias, Bullock was the first of his race to release a cocktail book. His book, titled The Ideal Bartender, published in 1917, offers scant personal information about him. Apart from the opening quote and the reproduction of the Dispatch editorial, it mostly contains cocktail recipes. The introductory note written by George Herbert Walker (grandfather of the 41st President of the United States) lauds Bullock’s qualifications for the creation of such a work.
While these details do very little to satisfy our curiosity, researchers have managed to sketch a brief account of his life, and that of black bartenders from Reconstruction through World War I, particularly Michael Jones and David Wondrich. However, this piece is supposed to be about cocktails, so we will focus on Bullock’s remarkable craftsmanship as reflected through his cocktails.
Bullock was notably skilful at making the Mint Julep. He was innovative in deciding to blend absinthe and Benedictine, a combination I have never seen any other author attempt. He may well be the first to have published a recipe for a Martini-like cocktail featuring an onion, that we now know as a Gibson. Amongst his unique cocktail recipes, my personal favourite is the Admiral Schley High Ball, composed of Irish Whiskey, lemon juice, pineapple syrup, dessert wine, and soda.
Schley was a Navy Admiral and a hero of the Spanish-American War, and this is actually not the only drink named for him (the other is a bourbon and rum Daiquiri of sorts in Charles Baker’s 1939 A Gentleman’s Companion), but Bullock’s drink was first, to say nothing of being both more creative and tastier. The Admiral Schley’s High Ball is a lovely and disarming drink, the bright fruit of the pineapple teasing out the honeyed brightness of the dessert wine, with the mild oak from the Irish Whiskey providing structure, a kind of a gentle but present backbone. It plays to Irish Whiskey’s core strength, which is that it’s such a soft and approachable spirit that subtle fruit—that which would be bludgeoned by bourbon or even scotch—is allowed to express itself and entice you with its subtleties.
It’s an inventive and delicious original from an excellent bartender, the flavors obvious in the way that great ideas always seem obvious in hindsight. We don’t recommend using it as any kind of valid legal defense, but it’s certainly worth your time on its own, or to make as a kind of toast to the noble past, and the mysteries and marvels of an art that borders on magic.
2 oz. Irish whiskey
0.5 oz. white dessert wine, like Tokaj or Sauternes
0.75 oz. pineapple syrup
0.75 oz. lemon juice
Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake on ice for six to eight seconds. Strain into a tall glass over fresh ice, top with soda (optional) and garnish with a pineapple wedge or lemon peel.
NOTES ON INGREDIENTS
Irish Whiskey: The richness of this cocktail is amplified when the whiskey brings a gentle touch of fruity and malty sweetness to the table, while maintaining a passive role, serving primarily as the foundation upon which the other ingredients lay. Inexpensive brands like Tullamore D.E.W, Bushmills, Jameson, and Power’s are ideal for mixing this drink.
Pineapple Syrup: If you need to make a quick pineapple syrup, combine equal amounts of pineapple juice and sugar, stirring until the sugar is fully dissolved. Pre-made syrups are also available from notable producers like Small Hand Foods and Liber & Co., who offer a special “Pineapple Gum Syrup.” The “gum” in the name simply refers to gum arabic, an additive traditionally used to enrich the texture.
Dessert Wine: The choice of dessert wine poses the big question here. Bullock’s recipe calls for either “Tokay, Angelica, or Sweet Catawba Wine”, which are quite diverse flavor-wise. However, my personal preference leans towards white dessert wines with a honey-touched character, such as Sauternes or Hungarian Tokaj. Know that your mix may require adjustments of pineapple syrup (for sweetness) or Irish Whiskey (for strength) depending on the exact wine you pick out.
Note that while the dessert wine lends the cocktail its distinctive quality, it’s completely fine to skip it if unavailable or unwanted. The drink will still taste delightful with just the whiskey, lemon, pineapple syrup, and soda.
Soda: With a more intensely fruity dessert wine, I liked the soda because it gives the drink length and puts room between the flavors. For a more honeyed wine, I preferred it without. Your mileage may vary, again, depending on your wine choice.
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Linda Robson’s Desperate Plea to Strangers for Vodka
Linda Robson’s family pleaded with their neighborhood shopkeeper to deny her alcohol sales.
The star of ‘Loose Women’ has candidly discussed her struggle with alcohol in her just published heart-rending memoir. She revealed the distressing instance when her family implored the local seller to bar her from purchasing booze.
In a segment from the memoir, which has been featured in the Daily Mail, Linda, at the age of 65, penned: “Once finished with shooting, before reaching home, I would request the driver to halt so I could fetch a small bottle of vodka, which I would carry to bed and drink till I blacked out.”
“My family approached the nearby store and convinced the owner to refuse serving me. I then started visiting a store slightly distant, where they didn’t recognize me. Eventually, the family began to lock me inside the house, which seemed like the solitary solution to cease me.”
“I know that sounds like drastic action, but they were at the end of their tethers. Even that didn’t rein me in. I would try to climb up the wall of our roof terrace to get out over the other side.”
Linda also humiliatingly revealed she would “beg strangers” for vodka.
She said: “Or I would go and stand at the gate and beg strangers passing by to go and get me some vodka.”
And, Linda said she hit breaking point when her daughter Lauren told her she could no longer mind her grandchildren alone.
She expressed: “The most distressing moment of this entire phase occurred when my daughter Lauren signified that I was unable to care for my two innocent granddaughters independently anymore.”
“She started worrying about the prospects of me harming myself in their presence. There were days when I would take either of them to a store, secretly purchase a small vodka bottle, and consume it behind her back, which I regret confessing now.”
The family of Linda eventually managed to secure her a spot in the Nightingale Hospital in London, but she was battling suicidal tendencies.
However, Linda gratefully acknowledges The Priory and AA for assisting her to finally resolve her alcohol difficulties.
She said: “I haven’t had a drink… and I’m absolutely fine to be around alcohol. I’m never tempted.”
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House Set to Open in Naperville with Adjustments to Beer and Wine Size Limits
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House have plans to establish restaurants in the anticipated Block 59 dining/entertainment complex in Naperville. However, this is contingent on the city eliminating the constraints on wine and beer serving sizes that restrict these national chains from offering their menu-advertised beverages.
Both restaurant brands will not agree to be part of this upcoming project if the existing limitations persist. If this occurs, it is likely other tenants—such as The Cheesecake Factory, First Watch, Shake Shack, and Stan’s Donuts—might also terminate their leases. This information was shared by Andrew Balzer, a project developer from Brixmor Property Group, to the Naperville Liquor Commission.
The Block 59 project, which is scheduled to tentatively launch in 2025 in the northwest corner of Route 59 and Aurora Avenue, is being promoted as a regional hub for dining and entertainment.
According to Balzer, Ruth’s Chris and Yard House are key elements to this project, but will cancel their leases if they are prohibited from serving the beverages they are famous for at their other establishments. For Yard House, this is the Half Yard, a 32-ounce beer that is part of its brand identity. For Ruth’s Chris, this is a 9-ounce glass of wine that it is known for.
According to Naperville regulations, the maximum serving size permitted is 24 ounces for beer and cider, and for wine it is limited to 6 ounces per serving.
In the event that either of the restaurants decides to pull out of the Naperville location due to this limitation and if other tenants follow the same path, the entire undertaking could be at risk, as pointed out by Balzer.
He also mentioned that no such restrictions have been imposed on serving sizes at any other locations for both the companies, and they have always been recipients of positive responses from the communities where they are situated.
Currently, Yard House operates 88 locations across the country, including two Illinois locations in Lombard and Glenview. Ruth’s Chris, on the other hand, has a total of 134 locations, with branches in Northbrook and South Barrington.
Liquor commissioners expressed that they are not bothered by the concept of permitting 9-ounce servings of wine, underlining that certain eateries may already be presenting this quantity due to a lack of awareness about the restriction. However, they expressed apprehension that acceding to a 32-ounce glass of beer could establish a dangerous pattern and pave way for similar demands from other businesses.
Mayor Scott Wehrli, the leading figure of the liquor commission, voiced that the city has no intentions of providing an undue benefit to a single business by sanctioning a regulation that’s not universally applicable.
The competition in Naperville’s restaurant industry is fierce, according to the commissioners. They stated that a new standard would need to be implemented universally so that a newbie gets no specific privileges that existing businesses lack.
“Our primary responsibility lies in ensuring safety, but we can’t overlook economic development either,” stated Commissioner Tony Signorella. “What concerns me is the precedent we’re setting.”
Ex-Mayor Steve Chirico, currently a member of the commission, observed that the existing rules came into play when venues offered beer cans with 25 ounces volume, equivalent to two beers, during the last call, resulting in patrons consuming significantly high quantities in a short period before closure.
The commissioners discussed whether they could implement a restriction on the alcohol content in the 32-ounce beers, but they acknowledged that such an arrangement might be difficult to monitor and enforce.
According to Balzer, Yard House predominantly offers Miller Lite or Coors Light in the 32-ounce glass that’s characteristic of the outlet, both of which do not pack high alcohol content. At their Lombard outlet, the option of half-yard constitutes approximately 3% and 6% of the total beer sales on weekdays and weekends respectively, Balzer mentioned.
Voicing her support for the proposal to increase the pour limits, Christine Jeffries, who is at the helm of the Naperville Development Partnership, opined that bartenders and all those involved in serving alcohol in Naperville are adequately trained to do so responsibly.
She mentioned that the amount of alcohol isn’t as substantial as ordering a 60-ounce pitcher of beer or margaritas, or a bottle of wine for the table, both of which can now be legally purchased.
Jeffries remarked, “We haven’t had chaos with these items. I have considerable faith in Naperville and the Basset training we carry out here.”
The commission unanimously voted 5-0 to endorse the upgraded wine serving size but showed divided opinions on the larger beer size. The latter was greenlit by a 3-2 vote, with commissioners Kelly Douglas and Ray McGury voting against the amendment.
Before the aforementioned changes can be implemented, they have to gain approval from Naperville City Council. The council intends to examine the requests in a future assembly.
Michelle Mullins is a freelance reporter for the Naperville Sun.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House Set to Arrive in Naperville, With Adjustments on Beer and Wine Size Mandates
Ruth’s Chris Steak House and Yard House intend to launch their outlets in the anticipated Block 59 dining/entertainment hub in Naperville. However, their ability to do so hinges on the city’s decision to ease the restrictions on wine and beer serving sizes that currently hinder the two national chains from offering the drinks outlined in their menus.
Both restaurants are presently unwilling to join the development with such constraints, and if they decide to withdraw, other proposed tenants—including The Cheesecake Factory, First Watch, Shake Shake, and Stan’s Donuts—might likely terminate their leases as well. This scenario was brought into the open by Andrew Balzer, the project developer from the Brixmor Property Group, during his interaction with the Naperville Liquor Commission on Thursday.
The planned Block 59, located at the northwest junction of Route 59 and Aurora Avenue and provisionally set to open its doors in 2025, is being promoted as a premier regional dining and entertainment hot spot.
Block 59 relies on the inclusion of Ruth’s Chris and Yard House as its cornerstones, Balzer remarked. Nevertheless, if the establishments cannot serve their unique beverages synonymous with their other branches, they vow to cancel their leases. For Yard House, their signature beverage is the “Half Yard”—a 32-ounce beer that forms a significant part of their corporate brand identity. On the other hand, at Ruth’s Chris, guests expect to enjoy their famed 9-ounce glasses of wine.
Under Naperville codes, 24 ounces of beer and cider is the maximum serving size allowed and wine is limited to 6 ounces per serving.
If either restaurant decides not to operate in Naperville due to this restriction and if other tenants do the same, the whole development will be at risk according to Balzer.
Both these companies have not faced such serving size restrictions at their other locations and both have received positive feedback from the communities they serve.
Yard House has 88 restaurants all over the country, including ones in Lombard and Glenview in Illinois. Ruth’s Chris boasts of 134 restaurants, including ones located in Northbrook and South Barrington.
Liquor commissioners stated that they weren’t worried about permitting 9-ounce wine servings, as it’s likely some eateries are presently serving this volume due to ignorance of the restrictions. However, they expressed apprehension that approving a 32-ounce beer serve could pave the way for other businesses aspiring for the same.
In the words of Mayor Scott Wehrli, who also serves as the liquor commission’s head, the city doesn’t wish to bestow an unjust advantage on a single enterprise by ratifying a resolution that’s not universally accessible.
Liquor commissioners attested that the restaurant industry in Naperville is incredibly competitive. They concluded that a new standard would need to be established that didn’t give a newcomer something that existing businesses lacked.
“Our mandate isn’t only safety. We must also concentrate on economic development,” affirmed Commissioner Tony Signorella. “The issue that concerns me is the precedent being set.”
Steve Chirico, formerly the Mayor and now a commission member, commented that the current code was established at a time when establishments were serving 25-ounce beer cans, two beer equivalent, during the last call. This scenario made patrons consume a considerable amount just before closing hours.
The commission members mulled over the possibility of setting a limit on alcohol content for 32-ounce beers, albeit they agreed that such a condition could be challenging to manage.
According to Balzer, Yard House primarily serves Miller Lite or Coors Light in its signature 32-ounce glass, both of which do not have high alcohol content. He also shared that the half-yard option accounts for approximately 3% of weekday beer sales and 6% of weekend beer sales at its location in Lombard.
Christine Jeffries, who holds the position of President at the Naperville Development Partnership, expressed her support for higher pour limits. She is confident that bartenders and servers in Naperville have undergone proper training and can serve alcohol responsibly.
She stated that it’s not as much alcohol as purchasing a 60-ounce pitcher of beer, margaritas, or a wine bottle for the table, which are all now legal.
Jeffries mentioned that they haven’t faced chaos with these items. She expressed her confidence in both Naperville and Basset’s training.
The commissioners recommended the larger wine serving size with a unanimous 5-0 vote, but were divided about the beer size increase. The latter was accepted by a narrow 3-2 vote, with Commissioners Kelly Douglas and Ray McGury opposing the modification.
Both changes require the approval of the Naperville City Council before implementation. The council will discuss the requests at an upcoming meeting.
Michelle Mullins is a freelance reporter for the Naperville Sun.
Exploring The Ordinary’s Excellence in Rum: From Classic Daiquiri to Adventurous Rotating Editions
Kalyn Oyer is a Charleston native and the features editor for The Post and Courier. She’s a music festival and concert photographer and avid showgoer who used to write about music for the Charleston City Paper as well as national publications.
The Ordinary’s rum-focused cocktail program has a few showstoppers in the mix, including the classic daiquiri.
Bar Tab is a recurring column in The Post and Courier Food section that highlights a locally made or sold adult beverage.
The Ordinary’s beverage manager, Christian Favier, spent a decade in New York City’s restaurants and bars before coming to work in Charleston, a city he said is top-notch for its size when it comes to wine but a place he still sees in its infancy as far as cocktails go.
He aspires to contribute to the growth at the oyster bar located off King Street, where rum is a major feature on the menu that includes a dozen drinks spanning from classics to inventive variations. Since taking on his role, he has transformed the previously too-tiki-oriented menu into a more contemporary rum selection, excluded of any culturally insensitive Polynesian imagery that originated from the 1950s movements in California. Nevertheless, it retains a mix of both traditional and fresh Caribbean tastes.
Highlighting the importance of the daiquiri, Favier stated that one’s capability to properly prepare this drink is a decisive factor in their adaptability in dealing with rum.
“In discussions about the epitomic representation of rum cocktails, the daiquiri unquestionably stands out,” expressed Favier.
The daiquiri created here follows a straightforward recipe: a signature rum mix, fresh lime juice, and sugar, both shaken and stirred.
The Ordinary Daiquiri is a delightful, rotating version that keeps the customers coming back. The current version, Daiquiri #8, was personally the most delicious I tried during the visit, crafted with El Dorado, brown butter, rosemary, maple, and lime.
Another specialty that The Ordinary highlights is the Bad John, a drink mixed with Angostura bitters, salted lime, lemon, and a tangy pineapple element. A lot of the menu is inspired by a modern take on Caribbean classics with rich flavors. The pineapple is freshly cut and juiced behind the bar, creating a fluffy blend that provides a light, airy tasting experience.
The Batida Sazonal is an item that should not be overlooked, prepared with Novo Fogo cachaça, condensed milk, lime, and pomegranate. Another eloquent drink is the Coco y whiskey, blending Japanese-style single malt whiskey with oolong tea and coconut water.
The delight of an on-draft mojito comes with a twist of novelty and freshness, although I had to muddle my own mint to appeal to my preferred taste.
The enjoyable treat of the Ordinary’s mojito can be appreciated straight from the tap.
If in search of another extraordinary specialty, the frozen Pastis Painkiller stands out charmingly with an ethereal licorice flavor. (My recent preference has been leaning towards Absinthe!) However, no Absinthe is incorporated here, but rather a spicy and fragrant French pastis enhancing those licorice nuances — complemented with Coco Lopez, fresh pineapple, orange and nutmeg.
Starting off the feast with the snapper ponzu flavored with citrus, Asian pear and cilantro was a culinary delight, only to be surpassed by the rock shrimp rice. This is skillfully prepared with butter-infused Carolina Gold rice and filled with delicately textured vegetables topped with crispy sunchokes. A delightful experience to the palate, and ideal complements to the cocktails.
Favier is headed to Barbados soon for more research, so expect some new drinks to arrive on the menu once he’s back.
Reach Kalyn Oyer at 843-371-4469. Follow her on Twitter @sound_wavves.
Kalyn Oyer is a Charleston native and the features editor for The Post and Courier. She’s a music festival and concert photographer and avid showgoer who used to write about music for the Charleston City Paper as well as national publications.
The Ordinary’s Christian Favier, beverage manager, spent a decade in New York City’s restaurants and bars before coming to work in Charleston, a city which he says is top-notch for its size when it comes to wine but a place he still sees in its infancy as far as cocktails go.
Led by Charleston-based Indigo Road Hospitality Group, The Independent will open inside the 56-room George Hotel in Georgetown in February.
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The Need for a New Spirit: Vodka’s Rejection by Affluent Patrons
Yangdup Lama, the co-founder of the Delhi based Sidecar Bar, shares his observation about the changing preference for alcoholic beverages. Lama, whose bar has earned a place in Asia’s 50 Best Bars and the World’s 50 Best Bars, states that the popularity of vodka has declined in recent times. As per Lama’s initial expectations when inaugurating Sidecar, vodka was anticipated to be the favored choice for patrons, but surprisingly, the position has been usurped by the gin. Lama adds that the demand for gin has consistently grown despite vodka’s decline.
Lama recalls that a decade ago, his bar orders included equal numbers of whisky and vodka bottles, with gin making up a small portion. Presently, the orders for whisky remains constant, but gin’s demand has seen an upward trend, while the demand for vodka observed a decrease.
These changes in alcohol preference are not confined to Lama’s bar. Even various party hosts, such as 37-year-old Vir Kapoor from west Delhi, have witnessed a similar trend. Kapoor notes that more of his friends are now opting for gin over vodka, which was a popular choice for people who preferred white spirits rather than darker ones like whisky and brandy. Kapoor’s bar generally caters to these trends and stocks brands like Bombay Sapphire, Greater Than, Stranger, and Sons to keep up with his gin-drinking guests. Interestingly, there has also been a growing interest in high-end sipping tequila among his friends.
Even though vodka had a long reigning supreme status in India’s white spirits scene, recent trends point to a juniper-infused revolution, with gin replacing low-tier vodka. Consultants confirm that the shift in preferences has even modified entrepreneurs’ business choices, with many reconsidering entering the vodka industry. Ultimately, vodka faces a new competitive market being inundated by premium gin, high-tier tequila, agave-based spirits, and white rum.
Gin has been a component of India’s overall alcoholic beverage collection for over a century. Despite its longstanding history and prevalence, it has largely remained on the fringe in terms of market presence and acceptance. For a long while, gin lacked innovation and remained static, with its consumption by Indians being nearly negligible.
However, around 2017, gin began to make a name for itself. New players like Nao Spirits and Third Eye Distillery, the producers of Greater Than and Stranger & Sons gins respectively, emerged and started producing high-end gins that were both easy on the palate and expensive. Before long, gin overtook entry-level vodka.
As per industry calculations, the gin sector in India has ballooned from a mere 12,000 cases in 2017 to about 320,000 cases currently. Typically, a case consists of nine 750ml or 1,000ml bottles, depending on the category.
Spotting this surge in demand, nearly half a dozen companies, including Radico Khaitan, Spaceman Spirits, Third Eye Distillery, and NV Distilleries & Breweries, introduced new brands and variants of gins, as well as some white and golden rums in 2023.
Today, many other larger companies have also jumped onto the white spirits bandwagon with much gusto. Allied Blenders and Distillers (ABD), which is primarily a brown spirits whisky maker, launched a premium gin, Zoya, this month. Associated Alcohol & Breweries Ltd has launched its own premium gin, Nicobar.
Indian gins priced above ₹1,000 have been growing rapidly, and are outpacing imported premium gins. They accounted for just over a quarter of the premium segment four years ago but today, the number has risen to over 40%, said the Confederation of Indian Alcoholic Beverage Companies (CIABC), noting that the share of imported gins has fallen from 74% to 59% in just four years.
Clearly, this shift within the white spirits world isn’t just about taste. It’s a story of premiumization, where consumers are increasingly willing to pay more for quality and experience. Gin, with its versatility and burgeoning craft spirits scene, has capitalized on this trend. “10-15 years ago, vodka was the most sought-after spirit, but gin and craft spirits came in. What the dark-spirit making companies did was capitalize on the craft market, which vodka couldn’t,” said Lama.
Siddharth Banerji, owner and managing director of Kyndal Group, the spirits manufacturer behind well-known scotch brands such as Cutty Sark and The Famous Grouse, said the premiumization of higher-quality spirits is the backbone of the growth of the white spirits sector, specifically gin. The sheer number of brands in the premium segment has gone up across many spirit categories. The biggest beneficiary of this has been gin, since all these spirits come with appealing packaging and innovation.
“All this has resulted in people trying a lot of new brands. This was not the case some years ago, when people were completely inflexible about the brands and categories they consumed. Today, there is also huge growth in per capita income and that is clearly reflected in India’s ‘premiumization’ story. Also, more people are consciously drinking better quality over quantity since the pandemic,” Banerji added.
His company is in the process of adding an international tequila to its portfolio. In his view, India’s biggest spirit growth story will be in the premium drinking segment, in the ₹1,000–2,000 per bottle range. To be sure, while a battle is raging within the white spirits universe, brown spirits still command a staggering 97% share of the overall market, which is largely driven by mass-produced value offerings.
And while gin is reporting the fastest growth, vodka’s volumes are still four times larger—it has maintained growth momentum, but only in the much larger economy category. Premium vodka, however, has seen only a modest increase in market share. According to IWSR, a drinks consultancy, in calendar year 2021, volume-wise, growth across the overall vodka segment was higher, at 35%, while gin trailed behind at 28%. However, that same year, in the ‘premium and above’ category, it was gin that grew faster than the vodka segment, surging 177% versus just 66% growth for vodka.
It isn’t just gin that is making waves in the white spirits market. Competition is hotting up from other white spirits, with tequila, agave-based spirits and even white and golden rum becoming popular in the market, especially among young upwardly mobile Indians. This segment has seen new players such as Allied Blenders, Himmaleh Spirits, Associated Alcohol & Breweries wade in and experiment with a range of drinks for tipplers. The trend also led Diageo to launch its Don Julio tequila two months ago.
Vikram Achanta, the co-founder and CEO of Tulleeho, an independent beverage training and consulting firm, revealed that tequila has been trending significantly recently. “Interestingly, while agave consumption has plummeted in the US – traditionally one of its biggest markets – in India it’s popularity has exploded in the past six to eight months. Newly emerging Mexican and Spanish-themed restaurants and bars are fostering this rising demand,” Achanta stated. “Also, home consumption plays a role. The US’s decreased consumption has liberated the allocation of this spirit to markets like ours. Therefore, the supply of agave spirits is unlikely to present an issue now, and we might witness more companies entering and innovating in this sector.”
Indeed, Diageo and Bacardi, two of the world’s major liquor companies, are now concentrating on promoting their tequila brands Don Julio (Diageo) and Patron (Bacardi) in India, with ambitious plans to expand the market extensively here. DesmondJi, an Indian enterprise cultivating agave on home soil, has emerged and is providing to companies wishing to produce the agave-based spirit here. Their clients include Maya Pistola Agavepura, a venture that was launched by Indian restaurateur Rakshay Dhariwal last June.
“Tequila, especially sipping tequila, is currently extremely appealing from a consumer standpoint and there’s substantial interest from both genders because it’s believed to provide a ‘clean’ high. Though the validity of this claim is uncertain, it is nonetheless stimulating demand,” he added.
All things considered, it’s a prosperous time for the white spirits sector. Premium white rums, gins, and agave encompass over a million cases per year, Achanta declared, with the total white spirits sphere accounting for approximately four to six million cases.
“It (white spirits) is a very, very exciting category right now with a lot of innovation going on in some spirits,” said Alok Gupta, ABD’s managing director. “Gin has had this astounding growth because it offers new experiences. Globally, today, the only two white spirit categories spoken of are gin and tequila. There is a lot of curiosity around mezcal- and agave-based spirits and Indians really want to know what the hype is all about.”
The industry is yet to put out any official data for this fiscal year, but Gupta estimated the market for tequila to be about 75,000–80,000 cases per annum, growing at a rate of 40%.
Meanwhile, vodka, said some aficionados, appears to be suffering from a bit of an identity crisis. It has been stuck in the ‘value’ spirits rut, and is struggling to keep up with gin. While its volume growth continues, that growth is primarily in the lower-priced segments under ₹1,000, according to data from CIABC.
Indeed, Indian brands haven’t made any significant inroad in the premium vodka segment, leaving the space dominated by foreign players, such as Diageo’s Smirnoff, Absolut and Grey Goose. A few players such as NV Distilleries & Breweries, which sells the Smoke brand of vodka, and has innovated with flavours such as saffron and mango, are the exception. Somewhere, this lack of homegrown innovation has hindered vodka’s appeal.
Gupta said India needs to introspect as to how to grow the vodka category again. “We believe there is a gap in the super-premium vodka segment and we will launch something in the higher-end category soon,” he said.
The expectation from vodka was always that it was “clean” and delivered the same standard experience every time it was consumed, said Gupta. But with other white spirits, it has become more about who is offering newer flavours. “I don’t think gin is taking away the consumption of any other white spirit. The biggest share of white’s growth is possibly from someone who normally drinks brown; women and other newer age drinkers,” he added.
Anand Virmani, co-founder of Nao Spirits, appears to concur with Gupta. “To my mind, it is not a vodka versus gin debate. There is some migration from other categories. Some are beer drinkers, some are new drinkers. In fact, India is adding 20 million new drinkers each year. New drinkers generally begin with lighter spirits,” he said.
While the battle for India’s white spirits market is far from over, one thing is crystal clear: Premiumization is the name of the game today.
Teenager Sentenced to Life in Prison for Murdering a Father Over Beer in Charlotte Restaurant
A pack of American Spirits, a gun, a takeout order, but no beer. This was the basis of the story that led to Juan Deras Escalante’s conviction on first-degree murder, dating back to five years ago. The witnesses give account that the incident occurred when a fresh dad refused to get a drink for the then 19 year old outside a Mexican eatery in Charlotte.
On the 29th day of April, 2019, Domingo Venencio-Tapia – aged 41 – fell victim to the shootout attack, with a bullet to his face and four other bullets fired into the wall behind him. His recently married wife, who had given birth just 16 days before this event, was noticeably absent at the scene. Conversely, another man Venencio-Tapia had only just met that night at the Lempira Restaurant on South Boulevard – held the unfortunate victim helplessly as he bled out with his final breath.
The Wednesday following an eight-day trial saw a jury find Escalante – now aged 23 – guilty as charged for the crimes of first-degree murder as well as four counts of discharging a firearm into preoccupied property.
“It started over something silly and escalated,” Escalante’s attorney, William Heroy, stated to the jury during his concluding arguments.
However, he contended, the adolescent had no intention of shooting Venencio-Tapia.
Upon Venencio-Tapia’s refusal to purchase them a beverage, Escalante departed the eating establishment in a buddy’s vehicle, based on eyewitness accounts. He dangled from the passenger side window and discharged a total of five rounds.
According to Heroy’s argument, those projectiles were intended to be fired skyward.
As Venencio-Tapia and a few other men shuffled back into the restaurant, the car jolted or hit a curb, and Escalante’s arm fell — firing the bullets lower than intended, Heroy said.
The friend driving, Gerardo Lagunes, previously pleaded guilty in connection with the crimes, according to a news release from Mecklenburg County’s District Attorney’s Office.
State prosecutors squelched the defense through witness statements and recorded jail calls.
“This is my neighborhood,” Escalante said as he readied to pull the trigger, witnesses recalled. He told Venencio-Tapia and two other men he’d shot and killed a man before.
Then the bullets came, none of which soared into the sky.
On the contrary, they all battered the building and one of them hit its intended target – Venencio-Tapia, as argued by state attorneys William Bunting and Austin Butler.
The very act of Escalante discharging shots into an occupied property where he knew people were dining, justifies the four counts of firing a weapon into an occupied property. Furthermore, these shots – including the one that killed Venencio-Tapia – demonstrate intent, a crucial element in justifying a charge of first-degree murder, as Bunting asserted.
Escalante and Lagunes made their escape down South Boulevard. When the police arrived, Venencio-Tapia was already dead.
People who testified in court including Darcy Luna and Junior Lopez remember the visible image of Escalante with his curly hair, white shirt, and shiny gold chain. According to them, he was seen hanging outside the window.
A surveillance video that was viewed indicated Escalante, along with two of his friends inside Lempira just some moments before the occurrence of the shooting. The three of them picked an order to-go and Escalante was spotted talking with the bartender.
After that, he proceeded towards Venencio-Tapia and the brother of Lopez. A notable scene was when all of them were patting their pockets, which seemed like they were in search of a lighter, suggested by Bunting. At some point, they all stepped out of the restaurant.
A couple of minutes later, the footage showed people in a rush either getting out or moving towards the till in an attempt to check out and leave the restaurant. The reason behind this sudden rush was because the restaurant had become a crime scene.
Outside, Venencio-Tapia lay in Lopez’s arms. A full, untouched pack of American Spirit cigarettes had fallen next to them.
Police didn’t discover Escalante until May 2019, following an intense eight-hour standoff with Charlotte-Mecklenburg Police Department’s SWAT team, which eventually coerced him out of his home. According to police records, he had taken Xanax and was drinking alcohol.
In police reports, detectives made reference to a confidential source that guided officers to Escalante. Investigators revealed in court on January 29, that this source was a cell tower simulator provided by the Secret Service.
This technology impersonates a cell tower and identifies persons of interest by connecting to a phone through the walls of a building, as reported by The Charlotte Observer.
In court on Wednesday, Bunting — who is the Homicide Unit Chief at the DA’s Office — showcased Snapchat “memories” during his closing argument. The police had received a video that Escalante had saved, captured a day before the fatal shooting at Lempira. The video depicted him with a Glock, which was a match for the suspected murder weapon.
During the trial, six of Escalante’s family members were present in court and were seated right behind him throughout the trial. Each one of them was visibly tense, shaking their legs as the lawyers put forth their closing arguments and as the jury was in deliberation. All members chose not to comment on the trial.
Separated from them was Madeline Tapia-Jones, the wife of the victim, sitting along with two members of her family. They comforted her intermittently by placing a hand on her shoulder. She chose not to give any comments during the trial, and she remained unreachable after the jury announced its final verdict.
In reference to the accused, she stated during her WBTV interview in 2019: “This boy, he made a choice. He quite clearly shot my husband, and because of that, he was only able to spend two weeks with our daughter.”
Remarried and again pregnant, the widow traveled from Indiana to testify and witness the trial.
Mecklenburg County Judge Justin Davis sentenced Escalante to life without the possibility of parole for the murder charge and an additional 100-168 months for shooting into an occupied building. As of Thursday afternoon, he was still being held at the Mecklenburg County Detention Center.
Bobi Wine Speaks on ‘The People’s President’s’ Oscar Nomination: Viewing it as a ‘Campaign for Life’
“Bobi Wine: The People’s President” has already won the IDA Documentary Award and is nominated for Best Documentary Feature at the BAFTAs and the Oscars, but no one involved with the film is focused on bringing home hardware.
“For us, it interestingly doesn’t feel like a campaign for Oscar,” Bobi Wine said Thursday at the Television Critics Association winter press tour.
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“Are we campaigning?” quipped his wife, Barbie Kyagulanyi, who joined him on the panel alongside director and producer Christopher Sharp, director and cinematographer Moses Bwayo, and producer John Battsek.
“For us, it’s a campaign for life,” Wine continued. “For us, this is a lifeline. Every opportunity we get to show the situation in Uganda, we are extending [life] because we know, first and foremost, the energy and the sustainability of the regime comes from their ability to hide. The more Americans see this film, the more Europeans see this film, the more attention comes to our homes, and therefore the closer the message gets to their leaders … and therefore the more possible it is for those leaders to reverse the policies on Uganda.”
The documentary, which filmed for more than six years and premiered at the 2022 Venice International Film Festival, follows the presidential campaign of Wine, a popular Ugandan singer, as he unsuccessfully tried to unseat Ugandan autocrat Yoweri Museveni, who has now been in power for 38 years.
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More than the awards recognition, the visibility of “Bobi Wine: The People’s President” means the most to the team as every piece of attention it gets “continues to highlight the struggle back in Ugandan and for democracy around the world,” Bwayo said. “This is a current story. This has not stopped. It is still ongoing.”
Though the regime is still in place, the film’s impact has already been felt in Uganda. “There some shame to the government,” Kyagulanyi noted. “When they are abducting or taking someone away, these days they wait for the dark, they make sure there is no camera recording around. They use more tactics. They are no longer coming in broad daylight and grabbing someone. … I know they are waiting for the lights and cameras to die down.”
“Bobi Wine: The People’s President” is currently streaming on Hulu and Disney+. Bwayo thank National Geographic for picking up the film and “giving us a platform” to share their story. “We didn’t set out to make an award-winning film. We set out to document what was happening,” he stated. “We receive this with gratitude and humility. It’s really humbling to be here today and to see where the film has gotten. Honestly, we never thought we’d get to this point. We are humbled by this attention, by the documentary branch, and all the support that is coming from the academy members, from the academy itself. Not so many times an African story gets nominated. It’s a rarity. We are really honored to be here. It’s a blessing honestly.”
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Creating the Perfect Winter Drink with Whiskey and Two Essential Ingredients
On February 24, the Slumberland American Birkebeiner will be held in Wisconsin. Known as the Birkie, this event is the most significant cross-country skiing race in North America. The course starts in Cable, passes through forest on the Birkie Trail, extends across Lake Hayward, traverses the American Birkebeiner International Bridge, and ends on the snow-laden Main Street in Hayward. This year, the American Birkebeiner Ski Foundation (ABSF) and Tattersall Distilling collaborated to celebrate the race’s 50th anniversary with a specially crafted spirit.
The commemorative drink is called WI-SKI, which was conceptualized to honor the Birkie’s 50th year.
WI-SKI is a straight rye matured in maple syrup barrels previously used. The drink embodies the Birkie and traditional Nordic skiing, offering a peppery touch with a bit of sweetness. This combination is even more enjoyable after an active day on the trails. Despite not skiing myself, I had the opportunity to mix WI-SKI in a cocktail, producing a perfect winter drink.
The Cold Rush is Tattersall’s rendition of the Gold Rush cocktail, traditionally made from honey syrup, lemon, and bourbon. With just three simple ingredients, this tantalizing mix infuses warmth from within, whether you are out partaking in winter sports or just a spectator.
Creating a home-made honey syrup for this drink is quite easy. It involves dissolving an equal measure of honey with boiling water.
Are you excited to make an amazing cocktail?
Give a try to the Cold Rush with WI-SKI.
This tasty drink has honey blended with a maple-flavored whiskey, resulting in an excellent fusion. It holds a balanced sweetness, while the fresh lemon juice imparts brightness and a tangy taste. Tattersall enriches their three-year-old Straight Rye Whiskey by aging it in used bourbon barrels, which had maple syrup aged in them for a period extending more than six months. This process introduces notes of maple syrup and faint notes of bourbon into the whiskey.
While I do think this whiskey would be great to try neat, I’m so excited to have discovered this great cocktail that I’ll be drinking it on repeat. WI-SKI would also work great in a Hot Toddy, for those times when you really need to warm up from the cold and snow.
Proceeds from the purchase of WI-SKI benefit the American Birkebeiner Ski Foundation’s work to build a new outdoor center at its Mt. Telemark Village property in Cable, Wisconsin.
Have you tried a Cold Rush (or a Gold Rush)? Let me know what you think in the comments!