HONOLULU (KHON2) — The 14th annual Hawaii Food and Wine Festival is set to begin next month on Hawaii Island and Maui. In preparation for the celebration and to showcase local culinary talents, “Chefs Week” is currently underway and will continue until September 30. Chefs Colin Hazama of the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival and Colin Sato of Mugen Waikiki appeared on Wake Up 2Day Thursday morning to discuss the forthcoming events.

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“We wanted to create an opportunity to highlight the fabulous local culinary talent we have participating in this year’s Festival events, while also encouraging the community to dine at their restaurants during the typically slower post-Labor Day season and help sustain Hawai’i’s vibrant culinary community,” Hazama explained. “To express thanks for dining local during Chefs Week, we’re offering guests an exclusive deal to enhance their Hawaii Food & Wine Festival experience with Priority Access tickets to select events at the General Admission price. Priority Access allows guests early entry to selected events at 5:00 P.M., providing an extra hour to sample the exquisite food, wine, and cocktails and to engage with the chefs, winemakers, and mixologists.”

Village Market celebrating one-year anniversary

Chef Sato emphasizes the importance of supporting local eateries during the off-peak “shoulder seasons” when tourism is low.

“During these slower periods, local establishments like ours really rely on the support of the community. Initiatives such as HFWF24 Chefs Week play a crucial role by motivating locals to dine out and appreciate the offerings of our regional chefs. These efforts help in keeping our dining rooms full which is not only vital for the sustenance of our restaurant and our employees but also for the local producers like farmers, ranchers, and fishermen, plus other businesses dependent on restaurants’ success. Moreover, events such as the forthcoming Hawai’i Food & Wine Festival significantly aid by highlighting our local food and agriculture, which is essential for promoting Hawaii’s culinary scene.”

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After years of being in the shadows, Virginia winemakers are finally getting the attention they deserve.

Jared Soares

If someone shouted “Virginia” in the middle of a word-association game, “fine wine” might not be your first response. Even some of the state’s winemakers confessed to me that they had, in the past, found many Virginian wines forgettable — or, in some cases, undrinkable. Oh, how times have changed.

Jared Soares

Virginia’s reputation as an underrated wine region has ultimately become one of its greatest strengths. While attention might have traditionally been drawn to places like Napa Valley or the Bordeaux region in France, Virginia’s winemaking is carving out its own unique identity right in between these famous locations. This emerging profile is largely driven by a new generation of wine producers focused on crafting a distinct style exclusive to the area.

Jared Soares

The wine industry in Virginia has seen remarkable growth over the decades: from about 50 wineries in the mid-1990s to approximately 300 today, covering over 4,000 acres of land. This expansion contributes over $1.7 billion to the local economy, benefiting not just from wine sales but also through a thriving tourism sector influenced by wineries, hotels, and dining establishments. This led me to explore whether Virginia’s wine narrative is as rich in quality as it is in quantity. The popular adage “Virginia Is for Lovers” might ring even truer for wine enthusiasts.

For the initial stage of my wine exploration, I stayed at the Salamander Middleburg, situated less than 50 miles west of Washington, D.C. Middleburg isn’t only a hub for wine lovers but is also central to Virginia’s horse riding tradition. The Salamander resort, an epitome of grandeur and old-world charm, pays tribute to this equestrian lifestyle with its horse-themed decor and activities. As I observed guests in sophisticated equestrian attire, I pondered if I had stepped into the setting of a Ralph Lauren fashion show.

Jared Soares

But you don’t need to be a member of the horsey set to enjoy a stay at Salamander. There’s a gym, a spa, bikes available to borrow — and an entire wine region on your doorstep to explore.

“In the mid 1990s, there were about 50 wineries in Virginia; there are now around 300, with more than 4,000 acres under cultivation.”

I began my journey just about a mile down the road at Boxwood Estate Winery. John Kent Cooke, former owner and president of Washington, D.C.’s NFL team, has always had a love for Bordeaux, so at his estate, 26 acres are planted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and other Bordelais varieties. In partnership with French wine consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, the Boxwood team has created a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, as well as its locally known Topiary blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot — all varieties that express the terroir of Virginia.

During my wine tastings, French wine making consistently emerged as a significant topic. “White Burgundy is my go-to,” mentioned Jim Law, the founder of Linden Vineyards. Located a short 35-minute journey west of Middleburg, this winery is celebrated for its distinctive single-vineyard wines of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Bordeaux-style blends.

Jared Soares

The name Jim Law was frequently mentioned among winemakers, signaling his stature as one of the most influential figures in Virginia winemaking. Known for his willingness to experiment with new grape varieties and various plantings on different soils and slopes, Law was deeply engaged during my visit in mid-September. With grapes being harvested, it was a critical and busy period at the vineyard.

Law appreciates the unpolished charm of his winery. An Ohio native, he is profoundly invested in the agricultural aspect of winemaking, focusing on “understanding the personality and nuance” of each hill on his property. His deep emotional connection to his vineyards was evident. This connection was palpable when I sampled the Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay later in my travel—reflecting the Burgundian influence in its balanced flavors, yet distinctly showcasing the unique character of the rocky slopes and granite soils of Hardscrabble, one of Linden’s three vineyards.

Jared Soares

Beyond his own vines, Law praised the diversity and experimental nature of Virginia wine making as a whole. There is room for everyone to do their own thing, he told me.

Related: 15 Best Weekend Getaways in Virginia, According to Locals

Rutger de Vink, a Law protégé, is another winemaker who is steadfast in his own practice. After years of searching, de Vink, a former Marine, found the ideal spot to grow grapes: on a former cattle farm in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. He laughed heartily when he shared that a farmer had teased him for “buying a pile of goddamn rocks.”

De Vink struck what can only be described as a viticultural jackpot with his rocky vineyard, garnering attention in June when he announced that RdV Vineyards had been acquired by Eutopia Estates, a distinguished French entity owned by the Bouygues family. This company owns esteemed estates like Château Montrose and Château Tronquoy in Bordeaux. Renamed Lost Mountain, in honor of its situated historic knoll surveyed by George Washington—which also inspired the name of RdV’s renowned flagship wine—the vineyard nods to its rich history and setting near the Blue Ridge Mountains.

The rebranding hasn’t altered the vineyard’s inherent character, which continues to form the essence of the wine. This terroir provides the wine with a distinctive identity and depth, aligning with de Vink’s goal to craft an “American Grand Cru.” The reputation of Lost Mountain’s wines is solidly established, boasting a lengthy waitlist of two years for its prestigious $225 blend comprising Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.

Aiming to experience this illustrious wine firsthand, I joined the waitlist and also scheduled a tour and tasting at the vineyard. During the visit, it’s possible to meet sommelier Karl Kuhn and original winemaker Joshua Grainer, who are typically available to impart their extensive expertise to visitors. Grainer, holding the prestigious Master of Wine title from the Institute of Masters of Wine in the U.K.—a rare distinction held by only 416 individuals globally—emphasized the vineyard’s philosophy, “We don’t need people to come through the door, but we want to share the experience.”

Jared Soares

Upon my arrival at Early Mountain Vineyards, located in Madison near Shenandoah National Park, I was greeted by a vibrant mix of guests. There were lively senior citizens, a mother relaxing on the deck with her baby and pet dog, and a group of colleagues enjoying a meal together. Early Mountain Vineyards aims to attract visitors not just for its wine but also for its full-service restaurant and ample event space. Spanning over 55 acres, its founder Jean Case, a former AOL executive and philanthropist, ambitiously embarked on this venture.

The wine list was impressive, showcasing a diverse range of 11 different types of grapes. Virginia’s varied geological features, including soils like limestone, sandstone, and granite, contribute to the unique flavor profiles of the grapes cultivated here.

Jared Soares

“Mountainside vineyards are key to the quality of Virginia wines because they are well-draining and provide good airflow,” Early Mountain winemaker Maya Hood White explained. Her Quaker Run Cabernet Franc 2020 exemplifies this. It embodies the elegance and classical style of Chinon—Cabernet Franc from France’s Loire Valley—yet it includes a hint of New World richness and energy.

“The state has some geological advantages that make it a hospitable landscape for a seemingly endless parade of grapes.”

The last person I expected to meet during my trip was a winemaker originally from Piedmont, in the mountains of northern Italy—renowned for the distinguished Barolo. Despite his family’s background in the industry, Luca Paschina was determined to forge his own path in winemaking. At Barboursville Vineyards, situated in Virginia’s own Piedmont area, roughly 30 minutes northeast of Charlottesville, he discovered the ideal location to accomplish this. The winery, owned by the Zonin family, famed for their estates across Italy, allows Paschina to merge Old World and New World tastes, complemented by the Zonins’ shared passion for innovative winemaking.

Paschina’s heritage is also reflected in Barboursville’s range of offerings. He produces a refined Vermentino, a Nebbiolo, and Paxxito, a dessert wine made in the “Passito” style using air-dried Moscato Ottonel and Vidal grapes. For those wishing to immerse themselves fully in the Barboursville experience, bookings are available at the charming 1804 Inn and the exquisite wines can be enjoyed alongside handmade pastas at the Palladio Restaurant.

Jared Soares

Barboursville is the winery where I most strongly felt the richness and complexity of Virginia’s history. The ruins of a building designed by founding father Thomas Jefferson remain on the property, and a portrait of him hangs in the barrel room. As a descendant of enslaved people, my feelings on Jefferson, a well-documented enslaver of human beings from Africa, are complicated — to put it mildly. I’m sure he could never have imagined that someone like me would one day be involved in sharing the beauty of wine. But I share his love of the fermented grape and can’t ignore the significant role he played in the state’s wine-making history.

Jefferson established two vineyards on his Monticello estate and cofounded Virginia’s first commercial wine company. Adjacent to the portrait, a placard reads: “We could, in the United States, make as great a variety of wines as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kind but doubtless as good.”

Jared Soares

I departed from Barboursville, feeling sated by the local cuisine and wine, and my head filled with new knowledge. Upon arriving at Keswick Hall, a mere 25 minutes away, a sense of calm washed over me.

Built in 1912, Keswick Hall has transitioned through several phases, including a private mansion, a country club boasting an 18-hole golf course by Pete Dye, and eventually into a hotel under the design influence of Laura Ashley’s husband. The estate was taken over in 2017 by co-chairs Molly and Robert Hardie of H7 Holdings and underwent extensive renovations, reopening in 2021 with a new annex that expanded its capacity to 80 rooms. The luxurious Duxiana mattresses and Frette linens afforded me a worry-free night’s sleep, while a soothing Rose Diamond Radiance Facial in the spa enhanced my peaceful state.

The culinary highlight of Keswick is the Marigold by Jean-Georges, helmed by the renowned Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The restaurant’s design features rustic timber and transparent elements which frame the spectacular scenery, and its menu revitalizes traditional dishes, including a truffle pizza and cauliflower with turmeric tahini and pistachios. Notably impressive is the wine list, showcasing superb local selections, among which the Linden Vineyard’s Hardscrabble Chardonnay stood out, a beverage I eagerly anticipated since my encounter with Law, proving to be delightfully balanced and refreshing with a persistent finish.

Jared Soares

The final day of my brief yet intense exploration of Virginia’s wine culture began with a visit to Michael Shaps Wineworks, located in Charlottesville. Originally from New York, Shaps pairs his charming confidence with impressive winemaking skills. Like many other Virginia winemakers with a penchant for Burgundy, Shaps takes it further: he trained in winemaking in that region and also possesses a winery, Maison Shaps, in Meursault, France. Besides producing Virginia wines that include familiar varieties like Chardonnay, Viognier, and Merlot, Shaps also enjoys creating new blends. He produces a playfully named sweet wine, Raisin d’Être, utilizing grapes dried in converted tobacco barns. Moreover, he has a special interest in Petit Manseng, a robust white grape from southwestern France, which he cultivates for its flavors of grilled pineapple and mango, describing it as “bulletproof” in the fields.

Jared Soares

I then traveled westward from Charlottesville to Veritas, situated in Afton. The atmosphere was lively: on a warm Friday afternoon, the place was bustling. Over the course of my two-hour stay, I witnessed a diverse crowd including bachelorette parties, couples, families, and colleagues, all converging in the spacious tasting room and outdoor area. I also noted ongoing preparations for a wedding.

Jared Soares

It’s evident that the Hodson family has invested heavily in both the expansive venue and the quality of the wines. This commitment is showcased in selections like the Scintilla sparkling Chardonnay, crafted using the classic champagne method, and the deeply flavorful Petit Verdot. I participated in a thoughtfully arranged wine and food pairing, where the Reserve Chardonnay was served alongside smoked salmon with caper relish and preserved lemon.

Jared Soares

My discussions with local winemakers reveal that innovation is central to Virginia’s wine scene. While they may draw inspiration from various regions, their dedication to understanding their own land, cultivating suitable grape varieties, and refining their winemaking techniques has enabled them to emerge from the shadows of more prominent wine-producing areas. The industry’s leaders might refrain from boasting, but they have certainly demonstrated the capacity to silence their critics. Reflecting on Jefferson’s words, we can indeed say, “look at us now.”

This story first appeared in the October 2024 edition of Travel + Leisure under the title “American Vintage.”

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Read the original article on Travel & Leisure.

Ben Dollard, President of Treasury Americas

With reports of global wine sales volume declines for the past two years, it was refreshing to learn that one of the world’s largest publicly traded wine corporations, Treasury Wine Estates, actually achieved an 8% increase in profit during its recent fiscal year (ending July 30, 2024).

Given Treasury’s flurry of both acquisitions and divestments, many people have been curious about how these results were achieved. Therefore, I reached out to Ben Dollard, President of Treasury Americas, and in an online interview he explained how the company’s new focus on the ultra-premium and luxury wine segments was allowing them to pull ahead of the pack.

“We are pleased with the outcome of our results – specifically with our U.S. wine businesses,” stated Dollard. “Highlights include the acquisitions of Daou and Frank Family wineries to complement our other brands. And we became a $1 billion business for the first time (in Australian dollars).”

The net profit for Treasury Wine Estates was AU$407.5 million (fiscal year 2024), marking an 8% increase from the previous fiscal year, as detailed in their annual report.

What strategies did Treasury Wine Estates, a unique publicly traded wine-only company (unlike its diversely invested competitors), employ to record such a success?

During our discussion, Dollard highlighted five key strategic focus areas that have been instrumental in bolstering Treasury’s profitability.

With a collection of over 70 renowned wine brands worldwide, including historic names like Penfolds Grange in Australia, Georges de Latour at Beaulieu Vineyards, and Beringer Private Reserve in Napa Valley, Treasury has developed a strong and flexible global portfolio.

For example, when China imposed tariffs of up to 200% on Australian wines in 2021 (they were just lifted in March of 2024), Treasury was able to focus on other markets.

“Penfolds was already distributed throughout Europe and the U.S., so we pivoted to other markets,” explained Dollard. “It shows the great strength of our relationships and distribution capability around the world.”

Carefully curating the portfolio is part of this strategic focus, and explains the flurry of acquisitions and divestitures Treasury has embarked upon in the last few years.

“We are focused on the luxury wine market of $20 per bottle and above, and are divesting commercial brands priced at $10 per bottle or less,” reported Dollard.

To this end, they have recently announced they are selling lower priced brands within Blossom Hill, Lindeman’s, Wolf Blass and Yellowglen.

On the luxury side, their acquisition of Frank Family Vineyards in Napa Valley and Daou in Paso Robles, both well-known brands in the U.S. with price points ranging from $20 to $300 per bottle, match this strategy well.

“Both brands filled out important parts of the portfolio over $20, and they are growing rapidly,” said Dollard. Treasury defines luxury wine brands as over $20 per bottle and premium brands as $11 to $20 per bottle.

Indeed, according to Tim Ford, Treasury Wine Estates CEO, more than 75% of their revenues are derived from their luxury brands.

Daou Winery in Paso Robles, California – Part of the Treasury Americas Portfolio

Treasury doesn’t solely focus on high-end wines, understanding that past financial downturns urged a shift back to more economical choices. Thus, they sustain their popular premium wines, priced between $11 and $20, known as their ‘Bold Brands’ category.

Brands like Matua, 19 Crimes, Squealing Pig, and Pepperjack comprise this division. “These brands help us engage new consumers and invigorate innovation,” stated Dollard.

Innovation is evident through Matua’s innovative label from New Zealand, featuring a thermometer that changes its color to signal the wine’s ideal chill temperature. Similarly, 19 Crimes uses augmented reality technology on its labels to animate narratives of notorious Australian outlaws.

“We believe in investing in digital marketing, technology, and innovation to connect with consumers,” stated Dollard.

“We have a consumer lens, and spend a lot of time trying to understand how consumers want to engage with us and our brands.”

Treasury spends a lot of time focusing on the wine consumer and their needs, and is especially interested in understanding the needs of new consumer segments.

“We have a consumer lens, and spend a lot of time trying to understand how consumers want to engage with us and our brands,” stated Dollard. “We like to be there to engage with consumers in the market and at events, as well as when they visit our wineries.”

Therefore, Treasury creates a variety of consumer experiences at different locations. “We recently participated in the luxury car show in Monterey (Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance), and showcased our Daou wines. It was a great experience with wonderful consumer engagement,” he reported.

Other consumer engagement experiences have included Treasury wines poured at New York Fashion Week, The Daily Front Row events in LA and the Hamptons, Beach Life and the Santa Barbara Film Festival.

Another way they engage with consumers is through philanthropy, especially with their Frank Family brand. “Frank Family has a long tradition of giving back to different charitable causes, and so we want to continue that. It is a great way to show our gratitude and responsibility.”

Portfolio of Wine Brands Offered by Treasury Americas

Major players in the wine industry recognize the importance of maintaining robust relationships with distributors, particularly in the U.S. where the predominant method of selling wine involves the 3-tier system. This system facilitates distributors in promoting and distributing wines to a variety of vendors including grocery stores, restaurants, and wine shops.

“Building strong, enduring connections with our distributors is vital,” noted Dollard.

The strategy involves a collaborative method where the unique competencies of each party are optimized. Treasury, similar to other companies within the sector, collaborates with numerous distributors to expand their market reach across numerous U.S. states and over 70 countries globally.

Considering that Treasury Wine Estates is based in Australia, a nation recognized for its rainwater harvesting expertise since the 1800s, their forward-thinking stance on water conservation and management across their vineyards and production facilities is notable. Their environmental initiatives extend beyond water management.

“Sustainability is part of our DNA. Every day that we wake up we have a responsibility in how we think about the footprint of our wineries. We are always concerned with water management, but also the use of solar, the equipment that is used in the vineyard, and energy conservation,” explained Dollard.

Since Treasury owns 11,300 hectares (27, 933 acres) of vineyards around the world, and is one of the largest landholders in Napa Valley, this type of focus on sustainability is important in the communities in which they operate.

Dollard said that they are also concerned with social responsibility, and have active “community engagement in Napa Valley.” The company currently employees 2,500 team members, and has several programs to promote DEI (diversity, equity and inclusion).

When asked if Treasury has anymore winery acquisitions in mind for the future, Dollard replied: “We are always open to considering opportunities, as long as the winery has amazing and authentic stories to tell.”

In the future, Treasury Wine Estates is committed to prioritizing their luxury and ultra-premium brands while still fostering the growth and innovation of their ‘Bold Brands’.

“Our goal is to remain engaged with our consumers by sharing our brands, telling our stories, offering experiences, and strengthening our distribution and retail partnerships. We also aim to anticipate the preferences of new generations and illustrate how wine can play a vital role in a joyful lifestyle,” stated Dollard.

Penfolds Winery in Australia – A significant part of the Treasury Wine Estates Portfolio

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