If you’re familiar with the name Cutwater, it’s probably due to their renowned canned cocktails. This easy-to-serve drink option surged in popularity during the global pandemic in 2020. Personally, during the lockdown, I opted for homemade cocktails, but of the ready-made options I tasted, Cutwater’s clearly stood out. Even considering the complexities of creating a canned mai tai, Cutwater’s version proved impressively noteworthy. Similarly, the brand’s canned White Russian certainly exceeded my expectations.

Even though Cutwater is widely recognized for their canned cocktails, the company’s history extends beyond that. Rooted in San Diego, Cutwater originated in 2017, but the brand’s inception traces back further to when it started as the spirits division of Ballast Point Brewery. After Ballast Point was sold to Constellation Brands in 2015, the spirits division was carved out and later re-emerged as Cutwater Spirits. The company even boasts a large distillery/bar/restaurant facility close to the Miramar area in San Diego.

Unbeknownst to many, Cutwater not only has a distillery but also manufactures its base spirits. Even the company’s co-founder, Yuseff Cherney, serves as the master distiller! Additionally, Cutwater’s product range isn’t limited to canned cocktails. They also offer bottled spirits including, but not limited to, rum, gin, and even herbal liqueur. As a judge for various spirit competitions over the years, I unexpectedly realized I already sampled Cutwater’s products and genuinely appreciated their unaged rum. Their tequilas were also commendable, but I wasn’t a fan of their rye, which appeared to be a blend from other distilleries.

The reigning monarch of the San Diego spirits scene currently produces high-quality bourbon.

I had never tried Cutwater Devil’s Share Bourbon, their highest-end expression, with a suggested retail price of $115. If you can find it, that is, as availability is said to be limited even in California. The mashbill is an interesting one — 75% non-GMO corn, 15% malted barley, and 10% malted wheat. Usually a wheated bourbon uses wheat as the secondary grain. To use it as a tertiary grain after the barley… that’s different. Aged for at least four years in new American oak barrels, it’s bottled at 46% ABV.

On the nose it’s a little hot, with notes of brown sugar, cinnamon, and rubbing alcohol. On the palate the cinnamon comes through again, accompanied by butterscotch, vanilla and oak. It drinks a tad hotter than its proof; a little water tamps down the heat but also dulls the flavor profile a bit, so I perferred it neat. It makes a pleasant, lightly astringent Manhattan (solved by the addition of more vermouth), and a a perfectly fine whiskey sour.

“This bourbon is not defined by geography, but by taste,” says the Cutwater website, and I suppose that makes sense, since as far as I know there’s no distinctive San Diego style of whiskey. Although, with 18 distilleries and counting in the city, according to the San Diego Guild of Distillers, one may be emerging as I write this. News travels slowly to us East Coast craft spirits snobs. Can you get better bourbons for far less money? Absolutely. But for now, at least, Cutwater is the reigning monarch of San Diego whiskey. And the next time I’m in town, I’ll be checking out the distillery, and likely having a Devil’s Share whiskey sour — assuming they don’t just sell canned cocktails at the bar.