Whiskey from New York state and New York City often invokes an image of rye before anything else. Rye cultivation and the subsequent distillation of rye whiskey have been significant in the Empire State’s history, owing to its climate that is favorable for growing hardy rye grain. Recently, the state’s distilling industry has been striving to fine-tune this legacy into a unique style, termed the “Empire Rye.” This term indicates that the whiskey must be distilled from at least 75% New York state-grown rye. Despite the lack of federal support, this definition is propelling numerous small distilleries to innovate, sometimes with neglected or revived rye varietals. An example includes the NY Distilling Co., located in Bushwick since 2011, focusing on producing spirits in NYC. Their latest Jaywalk Rye Whiskey series unveils a rye varietal rarely seen in the industry, Horton Rye.

This distillery was previously known for producing their Ragtime Rye whiskey, a younger product also made with NY-grown grain. Reflecting on the fact that the Ragtime Rye is no longer among the products listed on their website, it could be inferred that the new, more mature Jaywalk series is the successor, repackaged to better portray the company’s mission.

The Jaywalk series includes three distinct expressions: a “standard” straight rye at 92 proof with an impressive 6-8 year age statement, a bonded variant at 7 years and 100 proof, and a rare “Heirloom Rye” variant that is cask strength. Each of these is distilled from a mash bill of 75% New York rye, 13% New York corn, and 12% malted barley. The highlight of the series, however, is the unique rye grain itself. The mash bill merges Field Race rye, previously used in the Ragtime Rye, and the newly accessible Horton rye. The Horton rye is an heirloom varietal dating back to 17th century New York. It was almost wiped out before the NY Distilling Co. partnered with Cornell University’s College of Agriculture resurrect from seeds. The five-year revival began in greenhouses, transitioning to fields, and resulted in a rye that added special flavors to their whiskeys.

What we are looking at with the Jaywalk Straight Rye Whiskey is a well-aged, 92 proof rye expression with an extraordinary grain history. The $50 MSRP stands out too, considering it’s a huge bargain for a 6-8 year old rye from a craft producer. That price point for such well-aged rye from mainstream producers is already a kick. If it’s from a craft distillery, it’s an even bigger steal. As an aside, although I generally don’t dwell on package design or aesthetics, the octagonal bottles strike me as particularly elegant.

So let’s dive into the tasting.

The aroma of this rye represents a mix of familiar and more unique elements. The peppery notes common in rye whiskey are visible, yet they are coupled with a more earthy-sweet feature that isn’t found as often. The fragrance can be a bit musty intermittently, yet it is nicely balanced between sweet deep caramelized toffee and complex herbal/floral tones. Along with that, I’m also sensing pine, rye bread, and a distinct touch of mint. There are indeed many flavors, however, identifying all at first can be difficult.

Upon tasting, the mint resurfaces substantially, coupled with milk chocolate creating a hint of mint chip ice cream. The pure rye grain flavor merges with cracked pepper and also a peach/apricot fruitiness, mixed with a sweet, minty herbal character. However, the savory overtones of tobacco and cigar wrapper, in addition to damp grass, generate a more intricate profile. The flavor spectrum of this grain ranges from fruity, herbal to sweet which is absolutely captivating. Even at this proof point, the flavor is quite strong, punching a bit beyond its expected proof. If had to take a blind test, I would probably presume this to be 100 proof or even higher, considering the boldness of its flavors.

In conclusion, this is a very robust rye from NY Distilling Co., specifically remarkable for delivering exceptional value at a $50 price point, especially when considering the extensive effort invested in the revival of the Horton rye. Those interested in exploring the Empire Rye concept might want to give it a try.

Distillery: NY Distilling Co.

City: Brooklyn, NYC

Style: Straight rye whiskey

ABV: 46% (92 proof)

Availability: 750 ml bottles, $50 MSRP

Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.

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