9.5

Genre:

Rock

Label:

MCA

Reviewed:

September 8, 2024

When Shane MacGowan died last year, it felt like the passing of a head of state. In a sense it was: The Irish president attended the funeral; a pre-recorded Bono read from St. Paul’s Letter to the Corinthians; Nick Cave sang a moving “Rainy Night in Soho.” And by the time the assembly was laying into an unexpurgated reading of “Fairytale of New York”—a white-bearded Glen Hansard leading the congregation, with neo-trad ambassador Lisa O’Neill singing Kirsty MacColl’s parts, Spider Stacey and other Pogues accompanying them on instruments as MacGowan’s widow and others waltzed near the altar—it’s a fair bet many of those present, not to mention those watching the livestream, were blinking back tears. (I certainly was.) Even the pious outcries that followed this unconventional mass felt perfect—one imagined MacGowan’s jagged grin shining down from heaven.

Why such reverence? For one thing, MacGowan and the Pogues elevated Irish roots music to trendy status. Indeed, aficionados respected the 1970s Irish folk revival bands like Planxty and Clannad, the latter having briefly collaborated with cosmic music pioneer Conny Plank and kickstarting the career of sibling Enya before achieving their own mainstream success. Some American country artists noted the Irish influence on their own genres. Furthermore, Bob Dylan covered several Irish-rooted songs, including a remarkable rendition of “The Auld Triangle” discovered among the Basement Tapes.

In New York City, as punk emerged in venues like CBGB and Max’s within the Irish expatriate community, one could still detect the folk revival tunes of 1960s favorites the Clancy Brothers and the Dubliners in numerous Irish pubs. Yet these places were more popular with retirees and off-duty officers than as live music venues. By the early 1980s, prior to Riverdance and Van Morrison’s collaboration with the Chieftains, Irish traditional music was mainly reserved for family events, rolled out alongside green beer and public revelry on St. Patrick’s Day.

Yet, the Pogues transcended mere revivalism. They forged a musical legacy of their own, largely from the creative and dramatically distinct vocals of MacGowan, their lead vocalist and principal songwriter. His talent was evident from their debut album, Red Roses for Me. Featuring a mix of classics, including “The Auld Triangle,” the album also showcased MacGowan’s original “Boys From the County Hell,” a fierce, myth-promoting anthem filled with poetic flair:

The boys and me are drunk and looking for you
We’ll eat your frigging entrails and we won’t give a damn
Me daddy was a blue shirt and my mother a madam
My brother earned his medals at My Lai in Vietnam

The heavy drinking, shared gang-like bonds, sardonic wit, and the complex, violent past involving occupation and emigration are crucial elements in the succinct storytelling style, accompanied by rousing tunes fitting for lively dances. The Pogues emerged from the early British punk scene, with MacGowan becoming a notable figure by chance. His rise began with him being caught in a photograph at a Clash concert with a bloodied ear, followed by creating a one-off magazine named Bondage. Despite their British origin, which added complexity, the goal wasn’t merely to be accepted into the realm of Irish traditional music. Instead, their music delved deeper, drawing on the deep-seated cultural heritage of the Irish diaspora—a testament to the band’s inherent “Britishness.”

This blend of influences culminated in the album Rum Sodomy & the Lash, produced by Elvis Costello, a notable figure in the British punk-pop scene with some Irish lineage. Costello joined the project after he had the Pogues open for his Goodbye Cruel World tour, partly influenced by his interest in their bassist Cait O’Riordan, who he later dated. In the studio, Costello contributed with acoustic guitar and mandolin, and suggested musical adjustments. Session musicians, such as Irish folk piper Tommy Keane—a renowned musician, and American fiddler Henry Benagh, were also brought in. Costello focused on capturing the raw energy of the band with minimal interference, aiming to preserve their rugged charm.

The album encapsulates the raucous atmosphere of a bar in full swing, blending acoustic and electric instruments, alongside robust vocal performances. In tracks like “I’m a Man You Don’t Meet Every Day” sung by O’Riordan and “Jesse James” performed by tin whistle player Spider Stacy, the album embraces a diverse music style, mixing traditional narratives with energetic delivery.

Central to the album is MacGowan, as songs like “The Sick Bed of Cuchulainn” exemplify. His compelling presence and raw vocal expressions transport the listener to the heart of tumultuous scenes, filled with uproarious behavior and rowdy revelry. MacGowan’s performances invoke vivid images of chaotic life experiences, marked by fighting, excessive drinking, and outrageous antics, culminating in triumphant, spirited outbursts, perfectly aligned with the band’s vibrant musical accompaniment.

MacGowan was notably well-read from an early age, delving into the works of Dostoyevsky and Joyce, and had a reputation for his literary prowess even before his expulsion from London’s prestigious Westminster School for drug-related offenses. His admiration for literary songwriters like Lou Reed was evident, a connection perhaps deepened by their shared experiences of spending time in mental hospitals during their teen years. MacGowan’s own stint was referenced in the Pogues’ debut single, “Dark Streets of London,” and he later contributed to the 1997 BBC charity single, a cover of Reed’s “Perfect Day.” His song “The Old Main Drag” presents a vivid piece of Reed-esque realism, portraying the gritty life of a teenage rent boy in London.

As for his songwriting, MacGowan’s ballads are considered his crowning achievement, similar to Reed’s. His song “A Pair of Brown Eyes” stands out as an early masterpiece, layered with stories and sub melodies, drawing from the traditional “Wild Mountain Thyme.” The narrative weaves through a pub where the protagonist listens to iconic tunes like Johnny Cash’s “A Thing Called Love” and Philomena Begley & Ray Lynam’s “My Elusive Dreams.” The impactful nature of MacGowan’s storytelling was so striking that it moved his bandmates profoundly.

Other notable works include “Sally MacLennane” and his rendition of Phil Gaston’s “Navigator,” an anthem reflecting on the life and toils of laborers. However, his interpretations of “Dirty Old Town,” originally by Ewan MacColl, and “And the Band Played Waltzing Matilda,” by Eric Bogle, are defining pieces of his album. Though other versions, like June Tabor’s 1976 recording exist, MacGowan’s renditions bring a unique, poignant touch that aligns with his artistic identity.

The album Rum Sodomy & the Lash made the Pogues stars on the international stage, embodied by its dada-classical cover and the boldness of its content. Following this success, they produced other acclaimed works like Poguetry in Motion and If I Should Fall From Grace With God. However, the brightness of these years dimmed by 1991, marked by MacGowan’s exit from the band, primarily due to his struggles with substance abuse. Despite this downturn, the band persisted albeit less notably than before.

MacGowan continues to be celebrated as a master among songwriters. The esteemed David Berman once listed Rum Sodomy & the Lash among the top 10 albums essential for his ideal, imaginary bar jukebox on Pitchfork. Cat Power transformed “A Pair of Brown Eyes” into a reverential cover, available for viewing on YouTube, while Titus Andronicus reinterpreted it as a vibrant punk rock anthem reminiscent of the early days of The Clash, also on YouTube. In the expanded 2005 edition of Rum Sodomy & the Lash, which also featured the notable Poguetry in Motion EP and various single B-sides, Tom Waits penned a poetic tribute to the band:

Rapscallion, angry, weeping
Passed out songs, songs
That seem to be born
Effortlessly, or
Not born but found
On top of an old wood stove

Waits remarked these were “songs that we all should carry,” a sentiment echoed in the communal experiences of music lovers, whether in pubs, vehicles, or gatherings like an impromptu choir under the summer stars, around a roaring campfire on Cape Cod’s shores, illuminated by shared melodies and the ocean’s gentle call. Notably, “A Pair of Brown Eyes” always stirs the most fervent participation, its timeless sorrow resonating with every note.

Correction: The initial review erroneously credited Shane MacGowan with the creation of “Navigator.” It was actually penned by Phil Gaston.

Sheila Jackson and Natasha McCrea are revolutionizing the predominantly white and male world of whiskey. What initially started as an innocuous dinner conversation has now morphed into a groundbreaking venture. Jackson McCrea Whiskey marks the inception of the first Black women-owned whiskey brand in California, launching in 2022 with aspirations to transcend mere taste.

Both Jackson and McCrea leveraged their extensive experience in the wine and spirits sector, fully aware of the challenges Black women face when starting a national whiskey brand.

During the development of their distinctive blend, their aim was to cater primarily to women, creating a whiskey ideal for neat sipping, characterized by deep, subtle flavors with hints of smoke, caramel, and spice. Jackson and McCrea achieved what they describe as “liquid gold” through a unique distillation method that uses Tennessee rye in French oak wine barrels.

Jackson McCrea has recently garnered recognition in the wine and spirits industry by winning silver medals at both the New York International Spirits Competition and the Bartender Spirits Awards this year. In addition, the company initiated the JM 100 initiative aimed at supporting and celebrating women who are making significant impacts and fostering inclusion in various fields.

Blavity conducted an interview with the founders of Jackson McCrea Whiskey, focusing on the role of women in launching the whiskey brand and promoting Black female inclusion in the spirits sector.

What motivated the launch of Jackson McCrea?

Natasha McCrea: Women have historically contributed to the whiskey industry in many roles like innovators of distilling technologies, early rum runners, distillers, and initial consumer base. Despite this, whiskey has been typically marketed predominantly as a beverage for men. Our goal is to reintroduce and reaffirm the role of women in the whiskey narrative.

Sheila Jackson: We want women whiskey lovers to know we see them. This brand represents our commitment to empowering women to take up space and to create a luxurious experience that invites them to exhale and indulge in an exceptional whiskey made especially for them.

Were you both always fans of whiskey, or did it grow through the development of your brand?

NM: My first introduction to whiskey was while working for a C-suite executive who loved scotch. That opened the door to me exploring other whiskeys and classic cocktails. My husband and I love to rate bartenders based on their ability to make a good old-fashioned.

SJ: I grew up in Tennessee, where family gatherings included spades, a lot of laughter and good whiskey. My family was old-school and believed the family should teach a child about alcohol. So they indulged my curiosity and allowed me to taste it, probably thinking I would hate it. But it was love at first sip.

Despite progress in the spirits industry exemplified by brands like Uncle Nearest, the whiskey sector remains predominantly controlled by white men. Can you share your experiences running a Black-women-led brand?

SJ: Often, industry vendors and professionals urge us to conform to traditional methods in terms of product presentation and communication.

NM: Initially, for instance, we were cautioned that our assertive branding might deter male customers. However, the reality has proved quite the opposite – men are enthusiastic supporters of Jackson McCrea.

Historically, whiskey has been viewed as a “masculine drink.” How is Jackson McCrea working to alter this perception?

NM: We are literally changing the face of whiskey by expanding the visual footprint of women who enjoy whiskey. When we first began, it was almost impossible to find images of women drinking whiskey.

SJ: At Jackson McCrea, “she makes the rules.” We surveyed women and asked them how they liked their whiskey. Then, we crafted Jackson McCrea based on that flavor profile.

What makes the distilling process of Jackson McCrea Whiskey so unique?

SJ: I’m a big wine geek. And in wine, terroir is everything. The same holds true for whiskey. There’s something so special about the rich soil of Tennessee — and also the mineral-rich limestone water. You can still drink water from the tap there. Those two elements are the foundation of the unique flavor of Tennessee whiskey.

Is there something special about the Tennessee Rye that you use?

NM: Yes. We use an ultra-premium 5-year-old Tennessee Rye, aged in charred American oak barrels. We knew that would impart the caramel notes, vanilla, and toasted wood that are part of our developing flavor profile.

SM: We brought the whiskey to California Wine Country to rest in French oak Syrah barrels to complete that profile. The tight grain of the French oak smoothes out any harsh edges and imparts a little smoke. And the Syrah barrel adds depth and nuance along with peppery spice.

Do you have a favorite/most suggested way to enjoy Jackson McCrea?

NM: My favorite way to enjoy Jackson McCrea is in an old-fashioned.

SJ: I love it neat with two dashes of chocolate bitters.

Did you know that filtering your vodka at home could be the trick you’ve been missing? It turns out that using a regular water filter, like the ones we often use in our fridges, can elevate cheap vodka to new levels. This method not only saves money but also strips away the harsh, almost medicinal taste and odor typically associated with less expensive spirits.

The clarity of vodka might deceive you into thinking they’re all the same, but the difference in quality between low-end and premium vodkas is noticeable. Common water filters, which use activated charcoal systems, can remove many impurities. By filtering your vodka about four to five times, you mimic a purification process. This not only improves the taste, texture, and aroma by removing unwanted congeners — by-products of the fermentation process — but it might also lessen the severity of hangovers by reducing these impurities.

Read more: The Best American Vodkas, Ranked

Utilizing your own filtered vodka at home can really enhance your cocktail-making skills, allowing you to explore and invent like a true mixologist. With its smoother, more neutral taste compared to lower-end options, you can spice up your beverages by infusing it with different flavors. For instance, adding horseradish to your vodka can introduce a fiery kick to your drinks.

Consider incorporating your refined vodka into a Bloody Mary, or try it in Chef José Andrés’ unique take on a pickleback, which opts for pickled pepper juice in place of the traditional choice. The neutral flavor profile of vodka complements Andrés’ version beautifully, differing from the typical use of whiskey.

This enhanced vodka isn’t just limited to personal consumption. It’s perfect for preparing batch cocktails for social events and gatherings, allowing you to serve what seems like premium drinks without the accompanying high costs.

Cooking with vodka is also a beneficial use of your home-filtered spirit, especially in recipes that call for alcohol. Typically, the sharp taste of vodka dissipates during cooking, but starting with a more neutral base allows the other flavors in your dish to stand out more prominently. Even though less expensive spirits are commonly used in cooking, your homemade filtered vodka lets you maintain high quality without compromise.

Many might not be aware that introducing vodka to your batter can result in extra crispy fried delicacies such as chicken, shrimp, and fish. It may seem unusual, but it’s definitely worth trying if you’re a fan of crunchy, yet light, fried foods. This technique is effective due to the alcohol’s ability to create a drier and fluffier coating on the food before it hits the fryer, unlike other typical liquids such as buttermilk. This approach is not only great for chicken but also works beautifully for onion rings, veggie tempura, or battered cauliflower wings. Moreover, you could use vodka for preparing Ina Garten’s vodka sauce, which is delicious over pasta, pizza, or even chicken parm.

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Check out the original article on Food Republic.

What happens in the back of your throat when I say the word “Jägermeister?”

Don’t close the page. This is a cocktail column, and what will conclude this brief story is, yes, a cocktail recipe with a small amount of Jägermeister in it, but I’m here to tell you that it doesn’t taste like you think it does. At least, it doesn’t have to.

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It could just be my particular vintage or peer set, but I suspect many if not most of you have at least one aggressively unpleasant memory associated with the dark green brick of a bottle from Wolfenbüttel, Germany—so much so, that when we use it as an ingredient in drinks, we’ll sometimes just say “German herbal liqueur” on the menu as opposed to its actual name, just to get people to order it. Across the liquor world, I can’t think of a single brand that has flown higher and sank lower, or been the primary subject of so many bitterly hungover renunciations. I admit I was one of those people, so much so that for a period of years I couldn’t bear to even see Jägermeister poured, jet black and syrupy, into a shot glass. I’m here to say I had it wrong.

Those of us who overdosed on it in our youth tend to believe that Jägermeister emerged spontaneously, Athena-like, from the forehead of some frat guy in 1982, but it’s not so. Jägermeister has been around since 1934. It was invented by a young man named Curt Mast, a tinkerer and avid hunter (Jägermeister means “hunter master”) who concocted an herbal liqueur made from of 56 botanicals sourced across the world, sorted into four different macerates, blended and aged for nearly a year in enormous wooden barrels. All of which is to say, we’re not talking about Skittles-flavored vodka here. Most of how it’s made is perfectly in step with the darlings of the cocktail world—Chartreuse, Bénédictine, Fernet Branca—except only Jägermeister is singled out for ignominy. Why?

While the considerable content of sugar plays its role, a significant part of the story is tied to Sydney Frank, a master in liquor importation and marketing. Frank isn’t just known for developing the concept of a French vodka and eventually selling Grey Goose to Bacardi for billions; initially, he made his mark with Jägermeister, having acquired its American distribution rights in the 1970s. His challenge was to popularize a brand that was struggling to find its rhythm outside of German expat circles. Frank’s innovative solution was to introduce Jägermeister as a frozen shot. His tactic was simple: persuade people to give it a try. He realized that attractiveness could aid sales, leading him to employ charming women, dubbed “Jägerettes,” to promote the herbal liquor in bars. His strategy succeeded, transforming Jägermeister into a popular choice for ice-cold shots. Originally intended as a digestivo or a digestif, Jägermeister morphed into a party staple, often consumed swiftly, dropped into beers, or combined in various notorious cocktails like the Red Headed Slut and Surfer on Acid, ascending to global brand status.

Today, Jägermeister might seem a casualty of its triumph, often linked with college festivities and less refined bar settings. Yet, setting aside these associations reveals it as a versatile herbal liqueur, excellent for mixing. It complements fruits such as apples and pears splendidly, blends well with darker essences like Fernet, coffee, or chocolate, and shines in concoctions with tropical fruits. A prime example is the Seven Days in Berlin cocktail—a blend of Jägermeister with coconut and pineapple rums, lime juice, and a touch of sugar—turning the familiar licorice flavor into a sublime ingredient that enhances without overpowering. This cocktail represents a sophisticated fusion of tiki and German herbal liqueur influences.

While it may still be too soon to discuss your newfound appreciation for Jägermeister with your in-laws, it’s an opportune moment to explore the rich possibilities offered by German herbal liqueurs.

1 oz. coconut Rum

0.75 oz. Lime Juice

0.5 oz. Jägermeister

0.5 oz. demerara syrup

Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously with ice for eight to 10 seconds. Pour the strained mixture into a coupe or cocktail glass. You can garnish it with a slice of pineapple, some pineapple leaves, a lime wheel, a few drops of angostura bitters on the foam, or any garnish of your choosing.

GUIDE TO INGREDIENTS

Pineapple Rum: There are primarily two varieties of pineapple rum: commercially distilled and homemade infused (where you infuse chunks of pineapple into rum). For our purposes, the homemade infused version is preferred as it offers both a robust flavor and a touch of natural acidity. Here’s how to make it:

Create Pineapple Rum by taking one pineapple and cutting it into approximately 1-inch cubes. Place these cubes into a non-reactive container, then pour white rum over the top. Allow this mixture to sit at room temperature for 24 hours before removing the pineapple pieces.

Replace Pineapple Rum with Pineapple Juice and White Rum – Instead of 1 oz. Pineapple rum, substitute with 1 oz. white rum such as Plantation 3-star or Flor de Cana and add 0.5 oz. pineapple juice.

Coconut Rum: While Malibu is a well-known option and suitable in a hurry, it’s quite sweet which might require reducing the amount of demerara syrup used. A preferable choice is Koloa Coconut from Hawaii. It’s 40 percent alcohol and slightly sweet, offering a genuine coconut taste rather than an artificial one. For enthusiasts of tropical beverages, it’s recommended to try and source this rum.

Demerara Syrup: This syrup, a bit less refined than the clear simple syrup made from bleached sugar, adds depth to the cocktail. It complements both the light tropical flavors and the dark, rich notes of Jägermeister. While not essential, as simple syrup can be used, the unique qualities of demerara make it preferable. Combine equal parts of sugar and hot water, stirring until dissolved. If using demerara sugar, which includes large crystals, it may be beneficial to dissolve the sugar on the stove to utilize the heat for better solubility.

Jägermeister: This cocktail is designed to highlight the unique characteristics of Jägermeister. Though it hasn’t been tested with other liquors, various herbal liqueurs might also be suitable. For instance, using Campari could bring it close to a Jungle Bird cocktail, and options like Amaro Montenegro or Meletti may also be appropriate, though experimentation is encouraged.

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Click here to read the full article.

Miami Beach, Florida, Total Wine Spirits Beer & More, store entrance. The image is attributed to Jeffrey Greenberg via Universal Images Group.

Today, the whisky industry boasts over 7,000 different expressions, with about half being Scotch whisky. Another 3,000 expressions are mostly American whiskeys, particularly bourbon, while remaining whiskies come from various parts of the globe. Approximately one quarter of these are rare, limited edition single cask or small batch expressions. The question arises: are there too many limited-release whiskies available? For insights, I recently discussed this with Michael Lowry, the Vice President of Spirits at Total Wine & More.

JM: With over 7,000 whisky expressions on the market, about half of which are bourbon, and as one of the leading spirits retailers, you surely receive a significant share of these bottlings. How do you choose what to offer in your stores?

ML: Our well-organized category management team assesses spirits sales and trends by store and market. Based on this data, we modify our offerings, approve new products, or add more SKUs from established brands to certain locations.

Bourbon continues to see growth, and new SKUs are frequently being added to this category. Additionally, efforts are made to secure highly allocated and rare SKUs that are in demand by our customers. Conversely, the Scotch category is expanding at a slower rate. New additions in this category are typically chosen based on their innovation, rarity, and their appeal to collectors.

JM: Approximately half of the whisky offerings are limited-release, either because they are special editions available for a limited time or because they are from single-barrel or small-batch productions. Are the evaluation criteria for these limited-release items different, or are there additional considerations?

ML: Total Wine actively seeks all limited/special release and rare bottlings. Our goal is for these SKUs to represent a significant proportion of our inventory because we consider ourselves a primary destination for bourbon enthusiasts and collectors. These customers visit our stores specifically looking for these items. Our strategy is to ensure we stock them in larger quantities and obtain them sooner than our competitors.

JM: Ignoring the size variations of Total Wine & More stores and the region-specific offerings, is there a limit to the number of limited-release items you can stock nationally? How many different expressions, both regional and national, would you typically offer?

ML: At TWM, our strategy for limited releases is shaped by a philosophy of abundance—we aim to acquire substantial quantities early on. Our portfolio includes over 2500 SKUs within the bourbon category, though availability varies by store and not all SKUs are present in our inventory. Our selection criteria are heavily influenced by current trends, online discussions, in-store inquiries, and website searches, ensuring that popular items are available in our stores.

JM: Is the abundance of limited-release bottlings overwhelming for retailers? Are there too many offerings? Could this be an example of a well-intentioned idea going to extremes?

ML: We deliberately focus on this sector because we recognize these customers prefer shopping with us; our range is substantially broader than what our competitors offer. The range of limited-release bottlings—from single barrels to seasonal releases, high proofs, distiller’s picks, and distillery exclusives—has expanded considerably.

We strive to secure every new release and conduct trials in various markets to gauge customer interest. Our purchasing decisions are guided by monitoring trends and engaging with online conversations about new releases, helping us to anticipate market demands.

I do think there are too many SKUs in this category, and it is no longer as special as it once was. Many folks who experimented with limited releases have returned to the primary SKU from the producer—satisfied with their everyday pick over the one offered at premium retail. The collector is also de-stocking: moving through their library of expressions and reducing the overall spend on new.

What advice would you give a craft retailer seeking retail distribution through TWM? How do they get your attention?

I think distilleries need to refocus their limited-release strategies to make them more special and desired by consumers. Many distilleries offer expressions only available at the distillery or in a single market: Kentucky is famous for this. When a brand has 5 or 6 expressions on the shelf, many consumers check them all out but respond by choosing none. They go to a brand that is easier to navigate and more straightforward than you can expect when you get home. Producers need to space the launch of the expressions more carefully to create scarcity and demand within the market while avoiding multiple limited releases on the shelf simultaneously.

Many craft retailers rely on spirit competitions or specialist magazine features to attract retailer and distributor interest. Are there any competitions, publications, or reviewers that you find dramatically impact the demand you see in your retail stores?

ML: We proudly sponsor the San Francisco International Wine & Spirits Competition and also participate as judges. Receiving a Double Gold from SFIWS is highly significant for both our team and our customers.

Notable critics, such as Fred Minnick, have initiated their own events like the Ascot Awards, and I am honored to serve as one of the judges for the Ascots.

Wine Enthusiast stands out as one of the few publications to assign numerical ratings to wines. These scores greatly influence wine and spirits consumers. We believe that any recognition, particularly gold and higher, holds substantial value for both the purchaser and the end consumer. We highlight these accolades and ratings on our product shelf tags through badges and mention them in reviews.

JM: Thank you.

Total Wine & More, a leading liquor retailer in America, was established in 1991 by the Trone brothers, David and Robert. It stands as the largest independent alcohol retailer in the nation.

The chain operates over 200 stores nationwide, offering an expansive range of products, including a plethora of wine options, numerous spirits, and a diverse collection of beers from across the globe.

Total Wine & More is celebrated for its competitive prices, expert staff, and holistic in-store experience, alongside offering educational classes and events aimed at deepening the understanding and enjoyment of alcoholic drinks.

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