Extreme climate conditions in Texas significantly influence the aging process of whiskey, presenting both unique challenges and a crisis of identity for local whiskey production. A visit to several distilleries provides insight into these effects.

The “Dance Hall” warehouse at Garrison Brothers Distillery

At 10:00 am on a sunny August morning in Texas Hill Country, it is crucial to minimize exposure to direct sunlight to endure the day. The landscape is arid, with limestone and granite underfoot. Along U.S. Route 290 from Austin to Hye, home to just over 200 people, prickly pear cacti are abundant. At Garrison Brothers, the staff started early, taking advantage of the cooler 80-degree morning. A spirit retailer is there for a barrel-selecting session. Despite the early hour on a Sunday, the distillery buzzes with activity.

The vast geography of the United States creates an ideal environment for whiskey diversity, thanks to a wide range of geologies, climates, and cultures. Regions like the Pacific Northwest and the American Southwest are already carving out distinct whiskey identities, distinguishing themselves from traditional hubs like Kentucky and the Mid-Atlantic.

Texas has always embraced a distinctive pride that goes beyond any particular sector, so it’s no surprise that its whiskey distilleries don’t follow the typical pattern. The Lone Star State is known for producing robust whiskey flavors. However, many consumers hastily categorize all Texas whiskey as overly assertive or excessively oak-flavored. Independent bottlings have shown that this isn’t necessarily true, although particular care is needed to manage the impact of the extreme temperatures on aging.

Garrison Brothers holds the title of the first legal whiskey distillery in Texas. They have developed distinctive production methods over time. Their bourbon, characterized by a wheated mash bill, is aged in barrels ranging from 53 to 15 gallons. While most of their whiskey matures in traditional warehouses, a portion is aged in large metal containers which intensify the already harsh aging conditions.

It might seem straightforward to label this distillery as producing only potent Texas whiskey, but a visit to a barrel selection event quickly challenges this notion. During such an event, seven barrel samples varied significantly in taste, despite originating from the same warehouse. One sample had a grainy profile, another was notably influenced by oak, and another featured a delightful candy sweetness. Ultimately, they chose a sample that stood out with rich coffee and chocolate nuances.

Treaty Oak’s flagship product is Ghost Hill Bourbon.

The surprising variance in flavor turned out to be a recurring theme during this Texas visit. Less than an hour away, Treaty Oak Distilling is also located off US-290 in Dripping Springs. The distillery is in the midst of a change in ownership but has been distilling spirits—including whiskey, gin, and rum—since 2006. The distillery has been located on the site of the former Ghost Hill Ranch since 2016 and sources their local grains from Barton Springs Mill—located on the property.

Like Garrison Brothers, Treaty Oak uses wheat in their mash bill instead of rye. The barrels in their warehouse are palletized in an attempt to reduce the angel’s share, which can approach 30% in the first two years alone. In addition to their flagship bourbon (appropriately named Ghost Hill), there are also a wide variety of single barrels available for on-site purchase. Treaty Oak doesn’t shy away from sourcing whiskey, but appears to be focused mostly on their own distillate.

Working through a flight of expressions and single barrels at the tasting room proved another reminder of the wide range of flavors that can be found from a single distillery. The whiskey ranged from oily and rich to fruity and sweet to spicy and sharp. While they no longer produce rum, they still have some barrels aging in their warehouses with even more varied flavor profiles.

Treaty Oak and Garrison Brothers embody the “big”-ness often associated with Texas culture—operating on sprawling, multi-acre plots of land. This isn’t always the case, though, as urban distilleries find ways to innovate with less physical space at their disposal. Still Austin is located in the heart of South Austin, less than four miles from the Colorado river. Unlike many of the other distilleries in the area, space is a luxury at Still Austin. The distillery sits in the same complex as a brewery, a fitness center, and a building materials supplier among other small businesses. Inside the main building lies a tasting room as well as their distilling operations, including a 42-foot column still made by Forsyths.

Still Austin’s Red Corn Bourbon

Still Austin adopts a unique approach for their distillery tours, beginning with the finished whiskey and tracing the steps backward through its production process. The distillery focuses on maturing whiskey in Texas’ harsh climate, employing innovative techniques to manage the influence of intense heat on their products. One such method includes slow proofing the whiskey to preserve the intricate relationships among the oak, alcohol, and congeners. Additionally, Still Austin uses a technique known as petite eau—originally from brandy production—where fortified water is added to bring the whiskey to bottling strength.

An hour’s drive from Downtown Austin is Milam & Greene, located near Blanco. Established by Marsha Milam in 2017, the distillery crafts whiskey under the guidance of master blender Heather Greene and master distiller Marlene Holmes, who joined in 2018. Unlike other local distilleries, Milam & Greene produce whiskey that is only a segment of their extensive whiskey portfolio sourced from multiple states.

To broaden their product range, Milam & Greene produces whiskey at their Blanco facility and maintains a production partnership with Bardstown Bourbon Company in Kentucky. Despite the remote collaboration, Holmes actively manages distillation processes at both sites. Known for a diverse range of products and flavors, Milam & Greene prides itself on both its blended whiskeys and single barrel offerings.

Amid fluctuating temperatures, Texas distilleries adopt diverse production practices to stand out. Garrison Brothers distiller Russell Hartmann minimizes the significance of weather, stressing that their daily goal is to produce the finest whiskey possible under any conditions.

Warehouse at Milam & Greene, Blanco

Blair Ault, Milam & Greene’s National Brand Ambassador, adopts a detailed perspective regarding the distillery’s interaction with the varying aging environment. “We must keep a close eye on our barrels,” she asserts following a visit to their Texas warehouse. A brief exposure to the harsh midday sun underscored her concern. Particularly during summer, even a few weeks can dramatically impact the optimal aging process of the barrels.

Harry succinctly captures it: “the ethos of Texas whiskey is pioneering.”

Treaty Oak’s Jorge Camacho emphasized an ethos of “tradition and innovation” as guiding principals in the production of their spirits. Treaty Oak’s spirit safe has a plaque with the Japanese word はんそく (反則, Hansoku) on it. The word most commonly translates to “foul play” or illegal actions in a sport, but can also refer to a departure from the norm.

The spirit safe at Treaty Oak emboldened with a Japanese term for uniqueness.

Jason Harry, Still Austin’s Brand Experience Manager, is enthused at the prospect of higher aged Texas Whiskey and agrees that innovation is key. “Texas whiskey is young and there are different ways of embracing the Texas climate,” Harry says. He believes that Still Austin’s careful blending techniques, slow proofing, and upcoming use of petite eau all play into their attempt to tame the wild Texas temperature. “With time and experimentation,” he believes that Texas whiskey can reach double-digit age statements.

Simply put, Harry says, “the ethos of Texas whiskey is pioneering.”

One Community. Many Voices. Create a free account to share your thoughts.

Our community is about connecting people through open and thoughtful conversations. We want our readers to share their views and exchange ideas and facts in a safe space.

In order to do so, please follow the posting rules in our site’s Terms of Service. We’ve summarized some of those key rules below. Simply put, keep it civil.

Your post will be rejected if we notice that it seems to contain:

User accounts will be blocked if we notice or believe that users are engaged in:

So, how can you be a power user?

Thanks for reading our community guidelines. Please read the full list of posting rules found in our site’s Terms of Service.