Evan Sung/La Compagnie

The best wine bars in New York City exude a refreshing fluidity and freedom, showcasing their unique style whether it’s a chic spot for a power lunch, a snug bar on the Lower East Side, or a peaceful backyard in Brooklyn. Chase Sinzer, owner of the Penny wine bar and Claud restaurant in the East Village, describes, “A wine bar might focus more on the wines, inviting patrons to explore the bottles displayed or help themselves to wine from an ice bucket, providing a more casual atmosphere.”

This broader definition of wine bars means that New Yorkers now have easier access to exceptional wines from across the globe. “You can now enjoy Meursault Roulot in Brooklyn, a luxury previously reserved for the top Manhattan restaurants,” states Aldo Sohm, wine director at Le Bernardin. “This diversity excites people about wine, even in more-casual settings.”

If you’re eager to explore Croatian orange wines with friends, or indulge in a Premier Cru Burgundy without breaking the bank, New York City’s wine bars cater to all tastes and occasions. Here’s a guide to where to go and what to try.

At its original Chinatown location, online-bottle-shop-turned-bar Parcelle nails the living room feel that so many wine bars attempt: Guests lounge on emerald-green corduroy armchairs while leafing through a 500-bottle-strong menu that, refreshingly, offers a generous range of picks for under $100, as well as a tidy sake selection. This is one of the few wine bars (especially in this neighborhood) that caters to natural wine devotees as well as fans of, say, rare Bordeaux.

And the newly opened Greenwich Village location of Parcelle sits more firmly in the restaurant category, which makes it better for a full meal; heavy-hitters include the rigatoni with pork and fennel, duck confit, and yellowtail tartare. This location boasts an entirely different wine list from the original, and all of the wines served on-premises are available for delivery through Parcelle’s retail business—meaning you won’t have to go to great lengths to track down that stand-out pick you ordered over dinner.

This is the perfect wine bar to take a party full of dietary restrictions; much of the food is vegetarian, vegan, or gluten-free—even the four-course, prix-fixe menu, which is the antithesis of any fussy, over-tweezered tasting experience. Since 2016, this natural-wine powerhouse on the city’s Lower East Side has been pouring over 250 wines by the bottle, organized into cheeky yet helpful categories like: “stoop sipping,” “toothsome reds,” and “roasted whites.”

It’s easy to step outside your tried-and-true grapes with this bottle list, which features wines you’re unlikely to come across at every other menu in the city. There’s an emphasis on Eastern Europe—think Kekfrankos (commonly known as Blaufrankisch) from Hungary, and Greek Malagousia, which is described as a stand-in for Chablis.

If you’ve ever struggled to find a wine bar that your pregnant best friend, your annoying colleague who can’t stop talking about low-sulfur wines, and your Barolo-loving in-laws would all enjoy, Compagnie has been the answer all along. The SoHo location opened in 2014 and remains a pillar in the city’s wine scene thanks to beloved events with fun focuses, like Orange Crush and Bojo (as in Beaujolais) Burger Mondays.

While the wine list emphasizes a breadth of French wine, it also boasts a satisfying selection of options from Germany, Spain, and the United States. You’ll also find plenty of nonalcoholic options (over 20 bottles, to be exact) that include fermented teas and dealcoholized wines, some sparkling. The sleek new Flatiron location opened just last month with even more seating than the original and an entirely new menu. Expect stand-out snacks like wagyu skewers, za’atar and feta chickpeas, and some delectable gougeres.

One of the few wine bars in New York City that can accommodate larger groups, even as walk-ins, it’s surprisingly easy to find a pocket of seating here that makes this bustling space feel surprisingly private. There’s also almost always a class, tasting, or industry event going on, which makes it as much a community hub as it is a wine bar.

Corkbuzz’s original Union Square location is a must-visit for its thoughtful wine flights, which range from sommelier’s choice to Iberian hits. The bottle list has some serious range, with cheap and cheerful Beaujolais for $50, as well as Premier Cru Burgundy—and then there’s the outstanding Champagne selection, offered at retail price. Feeling peckish after a few glasses? The charcuterie spreads are generous and always play nicely with the seasonal, rotating flavors of popcorn.

Discussing New York City’s wine scene inevitably brings up Sohm, who runs the wine program at the acclaimed Le Bernardin and authored Wine Simple, a comprehensive guide brimming with advice on selecting delightful wines. His namesake wine bar, Sohm, marks its 10-year anniversary offering affordable options like Lambrusco and Cinsault alongside an array of high-end reserve wines available via Coravin, generally priced over $50 per glass.

Strategically placed in Midtown, the venue includes a prix fixe lunch that guarantees a quick yet satisfying meal, a unique feature in the city where most wine bars do not operate during daytime hours. This makes Aldo Sohm a perfect spot for business meetings over a meal far superior to the typical quick park bench lunch. Additionally, it boasts a comprehensive back bar enhancing customer experience with alternatives like Negroni or spritz.

Running a restaurant in New York City is tough, much like the accelerated aging comparison to dog years, which makes the 16-year-old Ten Bells’ stint in providing natural wine on the Lower East Side a significant achievement. Known for its vibrant atmosphere filled with professionals and enthusiasts, Ten Bells usually is brimming with guests. While the array of unique wines like Georgian skin-contact might be overwhelming, the staff’s expertise will guide you to enjoyable selections. Early birds benefit from discounts during oyster happy hour and should not miss out on the rotating selection of tapas that ranges from classics like boquerones to fried ravioli.

In contrast to many self-described “neighborhood restaurants,” Frog in Bed-Stuy genuinely embodies this term with a regular influx of locals working on their laptops, dogs that are local celebrities on Instagram, and patrons enjoying pool games. Its distinctively natural wine list encourages guest inquiries, ensuring the best choice is made. Besides the curated indoors, Frog’s spacious backyard, adorned with string lights, offers a perfect spot to enjoy a grilled cheese sandwich paired with a vibrant orange wine.

Making your way through the binder-sized menu at Terroir feels like reading a hand-scrawled letter from a good friend who cannot stay focused on a single topic if their life depended on it, but in the best way possible. Owner Paul Greico is known for his obsession with Riesling—”Rudolf Steiner urged us to become aware of one’s humanity. By drinking Riesling, you become a better person,” reads one page.

You can dive into the terroir-verse by snagging a ticket for The Summer of Riesling, an iconic, three-hour booze cruise Greico organizes every year, or just sidle up to the bar and ask the staff about their favorite pours. While Riesling certainly is the main attraction, there’s also plenty of variety from France, Germany, Spain, and beyond, as well as an impressive vermouth list. Not one for the usual wine bar charcuterie and tinned fish spread? The food menu offers more substantial fare like smashburgers, Tteokbukki, and a stellar shaved Brussels sprouts salad.

Shellfish and Champagne go together like peanut butter and jelly, an adage that couldn’t be clearer at Penny. This sleek, L-shaped marble counter is widely exempt from the New York City reservation hunger games, as most seats are saved for walk-ins—that doesn’t mean you’ll sit down quickly, but there’s standing room at the front to pass the time with a few rounds of razor clams and one of the 800-plus bottles curated by owner Chase Sinzer and wine director Ellis Srubas-Giammanco.

Order an icebox packed with oysters, shrimp, mussels, and scallops, and pick a bottle from the stellar selection of Loire Valley white wines, or a Chardonnay from the trendy Jura region in Eastern France. The only real mistake you risk is skipping the brioche ice cream sandwich for dessert.

Between the charming backyard patio and the snug, candlelit interior, there’s a reason to go to June on a year-round basis. Part of the Oberon Group, which also operates Brooklyn institutions like Rucola and nattier-leaning sister wine bar Rhodora, June has been a date night mainstay since 2015. The by-the-glass list is priced entirely under $20, and all bottles are 20% off between the hours of 4:00 and 7:00 PM.

While the list definitely shows favoritism to natural French wines, you’ll also find some hidden gems from San Luis Obispo, Umbria, Galicia, and beyond. Come in with a group (but definitely make a reservation) and ask for the magnum list—you won’t regret it.

Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler

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