A close-up photo of pinot noir grapes.

Pinot noir, celebrated for its adaptability and smooth taste, remarkably mirrors the characteristics of its growth environment, endearing it to both winemakers and wine enthusiasts.

With origins dating back over a millennium, pinot noir is famously rooted in France’s Burgundy region. Cultivated since the times of the Romans, it is one of the most esteemed varieties of the region. The grape’s thin skin and disease vulnerability make it a challenging cultivar, often referred to as the “heartbreak grape.” Yet, under ideal conditions, it yields wines with incredible complexity and richness.

There has been a resurgence of interest in pinot noir recently, prompted by an increased recognition of its sophistication and compatibility with various cuisines. Winemakers across the globe are exploring clones and methods to enhance its natural characteristics. Furthermore, there is a growing trend toward sustainable and organic farming practices aimed at achieving more authentic representations of pinot noir.

While Burgundy remains the benchmark for pinot noir, this grape has found success in various corners of the globe.

Pinot noir makes up a substantial part of the U.S. wine market. In 2023, it was the third-most planted grape variety by acreage in California. And just to the north in Oregon, more than half of all the state’s planted grapes in 2022 were pinot noir, accounting for 60% of vines in the state.

New Zealand’s Central Otago and Marlborough regions are also gaining recognition for their vibrant and expressive interpretations of this grape.

As climate change poses challenges for grape growing, the future of pinot noir may see further shifts in where and how it is cultivated.

What makes pinot noir so special? It’s the grape’s remarkable ability to express the nuances of its terroir. The best pinot noirs are known for their complex aromas, often featuring red and black fruits, floral notes and a hint of earthiness or minerality. On the palate, they are typically light to medium-bodied, with bright acidity and silky tannins. This makes pinot noir a versatile pairing for a wide range of foods, from roasted poultry and salmon to mushroom dishes and soft cheeses.

And being a lighter red, pinot noir is a sublime choice for red wine drinkers looking for a bottle that isn’t too overpowering during these hot and heavy summer months. Here are five bottles below that exemplify a solid pinot noir.

At approximately 10% the size of Bordeaux, Burgundy is a small yet significant region renowned for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. It is also the home of Maison Louis Latour, a family-run wine producer with over 200 years of history. Maison Louis Latour excels in crafting Burgundy wines and holds the largest collection of Grand Cru vineyards in the region, offering a wide range of price points suitable for newcomers to French wine. Among their notable wines is the 2022 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, featuring a dark ruby hue, a nose of red fruit and aromas of blackcurrant. This wine pairs well with grilled meat and aged cheeses.

This one is an ideal choice for summer grilling, thanks to its versatile and complex flavor profile that features bright red fruits and a smooth texture. These elements pair well with various BBQ dishes, while its spicy and smoky notes complement grilled foods perfectly. Touted as a benchmark for Oregon pinot noirs, the Ponzi Vineyards 2022 Laurelwood pinot noir is crafted from sustainably farmed vineyards, adding to its appeal. The Ponzi family has been producing pinot noir for over 50 years, cultivating 140 acres of certified sustainable vineyards on Laurelwood soils in the Willamette Valley. The Laurelwood District AVA, pioneered by sisters Maria and Luisa Ponzi, features ancient fractured basalts layered with fine loess, imparting unique characteristics to their wines, making this pinot noir a sophisticated yet approachable option for social celebrations.

Reed and Megan Skupny’s Rockhound Wine, a new venture from the second generation of the family-run Napa Valley winery Lang & Reed, launched a few years ago with a mission to produce innovative wines that defy traditional boundaries in the wine industry. Their 2021 pinot noir, sourced from the Radian Vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills in Southern California, was aged for 16 months in French oak barrels. This full-bodied wine showcases hints of balsam and strawberries, with flavors of bramble berry pie, dark chocolate and coffee nibs on the finish. The wine, with an alcohol content of 15.3%, is ideally served slightly chilled in warmer weather with a Niçoise salad or during winter with braised lamb shanks and parmesan polenta.

Founded in 1962 by viticulturist Dr. Konstantin Frank, this Finger Lakes winery revolutionized New York state and American viticulture at large by introducing wine grape plants to the Eastern United States. Now led by fourth-generation Meaghan Frank and her father, Frederick Frank, the winery continues to innovate with a diverse portfolio, including traditional method sparkling wines, ancient Georgian varieties and renowned rieslings and pinot noirs that highlight the Finger Lakes terroir. The winery’s original pinot noir vines, planted in 1958, produce lovely wines with notes of cranberries, cherries and subtle oak notes. This light-bodied 2021 pinot noir pairs well with foods like mushrooms, grilled chicken or tuna, pork tenderloin and seared salmon.

Yering Station was the first vineyard with vines planted in 1838 in the state of Victoria in southeastern Australia. Situated in the Yarra Valley, the estate encompasses five vineyard sites across the Yarra Glen and Coldstream sub-regions, benefiting from elevations of 150 to 1,500 feet. Acquired by the Rathbone family in 1996, Yering Station has achieved international acclaim for its viticultural innovation and sustainability practices. Renowned for producing top cool-climate pinot noir (as well as chardonnay and shiraz), the winery’s 2021 pinot noir showcases an elegant tannin structure, bright acidity, and a berry fruit profile, enhanced by 10 months of barrel fermentation in new and used French oak, which imparts warmth and spice notes.

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Low Alcohol and No-Alcohol wines are an increasing challenge to the wine industry

The wine industry is encountering challenging winds. We recently spoke with notable British wine critic Robert Joseph to gain new insights.

Robert Joseph, a highly regarded British wine critic, journalist, and writer, started his career in the 1980s with wine journalism, co-creating Wine International magazine and initiating the International Wine Challenge, one of the most prestigious wine contests globally.

Joseph has written multiple books about wine, including The Complete Encyclopedia of Wine and Robert Joseph’s Ultimate Wine Companion. He routinely writes columns for various wine magazines and has been featured on television multiple times.

In addition to critiquing, Joseph has a deep-seated passion for viticulture. He helped establish the globally recognized wine label Le Grand Noir and often provides consulting services.

JM: You’ve asserted that the wine industry places too much emphasis on consumer education, suggesting that one doesn’t need to be a leather expert to purchase shoes but simply must find shoes they appreciate. How do you believe the industry should aid consumers in discovering wines they enjoy instead of focusing on education?

RJ: The wine sector can draw lessons from the spirits industry, which seldom concentrates on educating consumers about the production differences between spirits like gin, vodka, and rum; similarly, Champagne producers focus on crafting appealing products. Take Aperol Spritz enthusiasts for example; few know about its origins or production process, but they delight in the drink’s taste and appearance. Some wine brands like Whispering Angel and Barefoot have successfully adopted this consumer-centric approach, catering to varied price segments.

Barefoot Wines Range of Sweet and Fruity Wines

JM: It’s estimated that 85% or more of the wine industry’s sales are at price points below $20. Does the wine media adequately cover lower-priced wines, or is there too much emphasis on the expensive, plus-$20 wines that most consumers do not buy?

RJ: The wine media – which, as a critic, I was once part of – quite reasonably focuses on what it sees as the more ‘interesting’ wines, just as automotive writers don’t spend quite as much time on the latest cheap Nissan as on the exciting new BMW.

But my favorite critic in any domain—the movie critic Roger Ebert—wasn’t like that. He was as ready to cover new teen flicks as the latest Scorsese. So, yes, we do need more writers looking at entry-level wines, but with an eye to whether they are ‘fit-for-purpose’ rather than whether they match up to a different set of quality criteria. Their failure to do this has opened the door to Vivino and influencers who are happy to do the job for them.

JM: Wine competitions are held globally, with awards from prestigious events significantly boosting new brands. The judges in these events are typically professionals with extensive credentials in the wine industry, credentials obtained after intensive studies and tests. However, one might question whether these judges align well with the tastes and values of regular wine consumers when it comes to everyday purchases.

RJ: As a founder of the IWC and a board member at Mundus Vini in Germany, I speak cautiously. The judges in these competitions focus on determining the absolute quality of the wines, which is a crucial aspect similar to evaluating performances in the Olympics or dog shows.

But it’s important to remember that the typical consumer does not purchase wine ‘blind’ as done in these competitions. Consumers see the label, know the region, grape, brand, and price, which all influence their purchasing decisions. Consequently, a medal from a competition or a critic’s rating is just one factor among many that a consumer may consider.

JM: In North America, wine sales have been relatively stagnant over the past five years. Sales of red wine have slightly dipped, while sales of white wine have seen a small rise. Rosé wines, starting from a small base, have seen a sharp increase in volume, though this growth rate has notably slowed. These trends raise the question of whether there are shifting demand patterns for wine or if this signals a persistent flat to downward trend in the market.

RJ: The shift to pink and white and sparkling is interesting because it reveals the way wine has become a, quite possibly, simple beverage rather than a complicated accompaniment to food. People know they like, or don’t like – Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc and order accordingly.

With rosé, it’s even simpler: dry or sweet. Who knows the grape behind the pink wine in their glass? Who cares? It is interesting to consider the position of Red Blends in the US market. These fill a similar role: a predictable drink.

Friends are having a celebratory toast of rosé wine together during a party.

Of course, plenty of people love complexity and are eager to try Georgian Qvevri wines and French Pet Nat. But these people are the exceptions to the wine-drinking rule—despite the space that’s quite reasonably dedicated to them by the wine media.

JM: How has the introduction of canned wines, including flavored wines, changed the dynamics of the wine marketplace? Is it resulting in a net expansion of the market or driving a migration to lower price points?

RJ: These products aren’t necessarily cheap. But they fit my narrative of helping reposition wine as a beverage rather than a ‘noble’, complex product that must be taken seriously. I see no reason to imagine they will disappear despite the wishes of many wine conservatives.

JM: Younger consumers seem less interested in wine consumption. Roughly a third of Gen Z consumers say they prefer no alcohol or low-alcohol beverages. How should the wine industry respond to this generational preference?

RJ: There are two answers. 1) embrace this and produce lo-no wine-based drinks to satisfy their demand. I am unashamedly doing with a le Grand Noir 0.0% extension to our range. 2) promote the unique, historic qualities of wine that make it such a great convivial product and such a delicious partner to food.

1) and 2) are not mutually exclusive. Evidence suggests that individuals who enjoy non-alcoholic beverages often drink alcoholic ones too, sometimes within the same event. It would be great to see someone start their evening with a glass of le Grand Noir 0.0% Blanc and then move on to enjoy a 12.5% le Grand Noir Pinot Noir with dinner, or perhaps as a subsequent drink.

JM: Baby boomers had a preference for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. Are the Millennials and subsequent generations leaning towards different varieties like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc? Has the wine industry adapted to these shifting preferences?

RJ: The situation isn’t black and white. Indeed, the younger contingent is gravitating towards the lighter and fresher taste profiles of Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Prosecco, and Pinot Noir. However, it’s premature to dismiss the relevance of Cabernet and Chardonnay just yet.

As mentioned previously about Red Blends, I believe alternatives will become increasingly popular. I am currently developing a wine in Georgia named K’AVSHIRI, which incorporates a mix of Georgian grape varieties, winemaking techniques, regions, and vintages. This wine challenges conventional norms, setting a precedent that I anticipate others will emulate.

JM: Are we producing an excess of wine, and is it priced too high?

RJ: Given the overall consumption levels worldwide, it’s clear that the wine production has been excessive for some time. It’s only recently that this has become widely acknowledged. Moreover, a significant amount of wine is sold too cheaply, yielding minimal profits, a situation made even more precarious by climate uncertainties.

There’s a growing trend where the younger generation in European wine-making families are reluctant to follow in their parents’ footsteps. Consequently, I anticipate a decrease in production by 15-20%, primarily affecting the lower end of the market. Large-scale producers like Gallo and European cooperatives, which are structured to produce inexpensive wine, will dominate this segment.

At the high end of the market, esteemed wines, akin to top-tier restaurants and luxury fashion brands, will likely endure. Those positioned in the middle, however, may face significant challenges.

Are they priced low enough to draw in consumers unwilling or unable to spend beyond $12-15? Do they have sufficient marketing to appeal to those with larger budgets? This circles back to the beginning. Spirits and beer brands possess margins that allow for marketing, justifying the high prices that sustain these margins. Many wine businesses lack adequate funds.

JM: Thank you.

Enjoying the Taste of Wine with Cigars

Many believe that whiskey is the best companion for a cigar, but in Sonoma County, a circle of enthusiasts argues that wine is the superior choice. During a recent ‘Summer Smoke’ dinner event at Rodney Strong Winery, I had the chance to engage with several proponents of this pairing and delve into their reasoning.

The gathering saw a partnership between Rodney Strong and Squire Cigars, a business in Santa Rosa, California, currently marking its 50^th anniversary. General Manager Kim Squire, whose parents, Barney and Linda Squire, founded the company, shared insightful perspectives on this debate.

“Traditionally, people associate whiskey or rum with cigars as the ideal pairing. However, considering the variety of cigar strengths, pairing them with something milder like wine can actually enhance the experience, making it a better complement to the cigars than other beverages,” she noted.

To demonstrate her perspective, Kim presented four distinct types of cigars each paired with a selection from Rodney Strong wines. The attendees had the option to try these pairings with a small sample of cigar and a taste of wine, or to indulge in a full-sized cigar.

Rodney Strong is particularly renowned for its award-winning cabernet sauvignon wines from Alexander Valley, most notably the Bordeaux blend known as Symmetry which retails for $70 per bottle. While highlighting cigar pairings for these specific wines, Kim also explored possible pairings with other Rodney Strong varietals such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, pinot noir, and port, pairing two of these as well.

Portfolio of Wines Crafted by Rodney Strong Winery

Below are the four Rodney Strong wines that Kim Squire paired with cigars:

#1 – Rodney Strong Symmetry paired with Davidoff Winston Churchill Cigar – The deep and complex flavors of berries, earth, and coffee in this cabernet blend complement the robust tastes of pepper, cream, dark chocolate, and coffee found in the Churchill cigar.

#2 – Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon with Aladino Corojo Cigar – Bursting with notes of black currants, plum, boysenberry, cedar, and a touch of mocha, this refined cabernet pairs beautifully with the Aladino Corojo cigar. This cigar offers a bouquet of sweet spice, cocoa, cedar, and floral nuances.

#3 – Rodney Strong Pinot Noir with Arturo Fuente Hemingway Cigar – The velvety black cherry and spice flavors of the pinot noir are perfectly matched with the lighter, creamy sweetness and subtle pepper notes of the Hemingway cigar.

#4 – Rodney Strong Sauvignon Blanc with Avo XO Cigar – For those who favor white wine, the crisp and aromatic grapefruit, floral, and pear notes of the sauvignon blanc pair exquisitely with the smooth, mild flavors of the XO cigar, which highlights hints of salty cashews, cream, cedar, sweet molasses, leather, and spice.

Some of the Cigars Served at the Wine & Cigar Pairing Event at Rodney Strong

The ‘Summer Smoke’ event at Rodney Strong winery featured a family-style dinner and was conducted outdoors on a large grassy area with a picturesque view of the vineyards in Sonoma County. Although not everyone at the fully booked event engaged in both the cigar and wine tastings (with a select few opting solely for wine-tasting), the cigar enthusiasts found much to enjoy.

“A cigar is a wonderful addition to the wine-pairing journey. A youthful Cabernet, rich with bold fruits and sturdy tannins, pairs exceptionally well with an earthy Robusto,” explained Palmer Emmitt, Owner and Winemaker at Emmitt-Scorsone Wines, as he explored various cigar and wine combinations.

Christopher O’Gorman, Senior Director of Communications at Rodney Strong Wine Estates, also enjoys the dynamic between wine and cigars. “Exceptional wine paired with fine cigars is like a match made in heaven. Both possess intricate flavors that echo their origins and cover a broad range of aromas and textures, from delicate and smooth to rich and robust,” he noted.

Guests Relaxing on the Lawn at the Wine & Cigar Pairing Event at Rodney Strong Winery

But Rodney Strong winemaker, Olivia Wright, decided not to participate in the pairing, though she did an excellent job describing the wines to guests.

“I don’t smoke cigars, but our proprietor, Tom Klein, greatly enjoys them – especially with wine, and so do many of our winery customers,” stated Olivia Wright, Winemaker with Rodney Strong Wine Estates.

“Also, I know that we all have different palates, and so if people enjoy pairing wine with cigars, I think that is wonderful. The world of wine will be a better place if we get rid of rules about what people should and shouldn’t like about wine pairing,” she added.

Interestingly both Squire Cigars and Rodney Strong winery are family owned businesses, with Squire Cigars first opening their doors in 1974 and Rodney Strong established in 1959. Recently, Squire Cigars introduced wine lockers to their cigar shop, enabling customers to receive advice on selecting the best wine from their lockers to pair with cigars.

“Wine and cigars just go together,” mentioned Kim Squires, “so why not offer wine lockers at our cigar shop? Truly, people are missing out if they don’t pair their wine with cigars.”

Actor George Hamilton epitomizes the elegance of pairing different types of wine and cigars.

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