Even though Texas is the fifth largest wine producing region in the country, you would be hard pressed to hear it when rattling off some of the U.S. AVAs. While Napa, Sonoma, the Finger Lakes, Paso Robles and Willamette Valley may be some of the first to pop in your head, there is a strong community of women in wine down in Texas that are making sure Texas Hill Country AVA is getting the recognition it deserves.
Courtesy of Narra Vineyards & Kalasi Cellars
“Growing grapes in Texas is not for the faint of heart,” says Nikhila Narra Davis, owner of Narra Vineyards & Kalasi Cellars located in Brownsfield, TX. “Every vintage can bring various obstacles to grape growing such as late freezes, hail storms, and harmful sprays from neighboring farms. These issues create a challenge but also mean we never get bored; It is always an adventure.”
Courtesy of Uplift Vineyards
Claire Richardson, a winemaker at Uplift Vineyards in Burnet, TX, says, “Texas weather often gives you all the extremes. These types of weather patterns are not ideal for grape growing; however, adaptive and proactive farming practices allow us to grow quality fruit, despite the challenges.”
Despite the challenges, the allure of winemaking in Texas has caught the hearts of Richardson, Davis, and Janet Miertschin, who co-owns and also makes wine in Johnson City, TX-based Portree Cellars. All three took different and intriguing journeys to Texas Hill Country: Davis honed her skills on Napa Harvests and served as a winemaker at Cakebread Cellars; Richardson developed a passion for fermentation in her food science program at Texas A&M University; and Miertschin, an artist and cook, used the abilities she acquired throughout her life to transition into winemaking. “I fell in love with the Texas wine industry and with winemaking as I discovered more about it,” she adds.
While weather may be the main deterrent, being a nascent wine region is another challenge. However, working to change that perception has been a fun-filled task for the winemakers. Miertschin recounts that watching the surprise and delight on the faces of people as they discover that Texas produces high-quality wines has been a rewarding experience for her, especially given that she believes Texas wines don’t get the attention they deserve, despite the plethora of award-winning wines coming from the AVA.
“The quality of Texas wines has drastically improved over time and it’s unfortunate that numerous people in Texas and beyond haven’t acknowledged the progress made by the industry. I would encourage everyone to try blind tastings and discover what they find,” she challenges.
Richardson emphasizes a similar viewpoint and states overcoming the stereotypes has not been simple; however, she urges those who enjoy wine to remain receptive to what Texas currently provides.
“There’s a vast array of microclimates and soil compositions within Texas, presenting us with the opportunity to cultivate various grape types. Consequently, numerous quality wines are produced locally. We’ve made significant strides beyond the sweet red blends still frequently associated with Texas,” Richardson comments.
Confronted with such a challenge, Richardson has taken a decidedly imaginative approach. She details that one of her preferred aspects of vinification in Texas is the liberty to experiment since the region remains relatively new.
“There aren’t any enforced regulations or laws that restrict the types of grapes we can grow or the winemaking techniques we can implement. This freedom aids vintners and viticulturists in experimenting and innovating in ways set to further evolve our region,” Richardson adds.
Compliments of Uplift Vineyards
Varieties from Italy are evidently popular, as indicated by Miertschin’s successful cultivation of Fiano, Aglianico, Teroldego, and Montepulciano. Davis exhibits preference for Sagrantino and Teroldego, alongside the cultivation of eight different Cabernet Sauvignon clones.
“Each clone imparts a distinct aroma and flavour to every wine, surprising numerous consumers – not all Cabernet Sauvignons are identical,” claims Davis.
Richardson discloses that she commonly works with Italian varieties since they are compatible with the Texan climate. However, she is also fond of working with Roussanne and Marsanne. Nevertheless, she strongly believes that one grape variety, emerging from Texas, deserves the spotlight.
“Statewide, I think Tannat is the rising star of Texas. It has no trouble surviving the extreme weather and always produces a standout wine, even in the most difficult years,” Richardson says.
But no matter what challenges are faced, these Texas women in wine know that the community they have joined – and help develop – is there to help.
“Women have a strong presence in Texas wine. There are numerous women-owned and women-led wineries, brands, vineyards, and organizations. We are fortunate that the Texas wine industry is a tight-knit community. With that comes a lot of support, exchange of ideas and information, and opportunity,” Richardson says.
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