The Bernheim Wheat Whiskey has always been a relatively overlooked option within the Heaven Hill whiskey collection, with other rye bourbons, wheated bourbons or rye whiskeys typically taking the limelight. When a new barrel proof version of Bernheim was introduced last year, it sparked interest, but unfortunately, it does not seem to have garnered as much attention as expected. However, it’s the quality that really matters and the initial release was quite impressive.
Since then, most of the focus has shifted to Elijah Craig Barrel Proof, following the announcement that its previous 12-year age claim would now be variable. Questions have also been raised about whether the launch of Larceny Barrel Proof and Bernheim Barrel Proof may be indicative of the eventual introduction of a cask strength rye whiskey from Heaven Hill.
Undeterred by these queries, Bernheim Barrel Proof has released its first batch of 2024, identified as Batch A224. According to the naming structure typically used by Elijah Craig, the ‘A’ indicates the first release of the year, the first ‘2’ signifies February, and the ’24’ denotes the year. This release boasts the highest strength in the series so far at 62.6% ABV (125.2 proof), which is a noticeable increase from the first release at 118.8 proof. It comes with the same term of “7-9 years” old and is roughly priced at $65.
With this information, it’s time to explore this new barrel-aged wheat whiskey from Heaven Hill.
Batch A224 unfurls remarkable notes of intense toffee sweetness complemented by hues of sticky, ripe dark fruit. It also hints at traces of roasted oak, charred smoke, and cocoa with a subtle whisper of cinnamon bun thanks to the buttery tone. It strikes as rather peculiar that, despite its strength, the ethanol does not overpower the flavors, making it easy to deeply appreciate this mid-120 proof range whiskey.
Upon tasting, this batch immediately presents a wave of rich caramel with strong spice notes—particularly potent hints of spicy oak mixed with cinnamon and cardamom. The oak also introduces some mild tannic dryness. The fruit undertones manifest themselves as both dried fruit pieces and fresh, jam-like black cherry syrup. The mouthfeel impresses with its silky texture, a notable attribute of prior Bernheim Barrel Proof releases. However, what keeps drawing me back is the lingering spice that remains on the palate for a tantalizingly long time, subduing the moderately residual sweetness and making the dram seem increasingly dry. Unlike the previous batch of Bernheim Barrel Proof, this one boasts a remarkable onslaught of baking spice. But it’s not an unwelcome surprise. Just like with the aroma, the ethanol blends seamlessly into the taste profile, making this drink enjoyable even at 125.2 proof.
In summary, this addition to the series is a triumph. From the onset, it feels distinctly more consistent than its counterpart, Larceny Barrel Proof. For those who haven’t yet discovered Bernheim Barrel Proof, and particularly if this batch’s spice-filled trajectory resonates with them, this batch emerges as a notable contender. It’s worth investing the effort to seek out this reasonably priced bottle.
Distillery: Heaven Hill
City: Bardstown, KY
Style: Straight wheat whiskey
ABV: 62.6% (125.2 proof)
Availability: Limited, 750 ml bottles, $65 MSRP
Jim Vorel is a Paste staff writer and resident beer and liquor geek. You can follow him on Twitter for more drink writing.
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